Hawaii Magazine Winter 2024 by aio Hawaiʻi

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32 Hidden Maui Maui is one of the most beloved—and visited—islands in Hawai‘i, and for good reason. Gorgeous beaches, epic hikes, an array of restaurants and boutiques—it's truly a traveler’s dream. But the island still has surprises, from tucked-away accommodations to secret spots that only locals know about. Here are some of the Valley Isle’s hidden treasures. BY GRACE M AE DA & CATHER INE TOTH FOX

42 Blood, Sweat and Gears At Kaua‘i Raceway Park—the westernmost National Hot Rod Racing Association racetrack in the United States—drivers push their cars and themselves to the limit to prove who’s the fastest on the track.

photo: aaron k. yoshino

BY KE VI N ALLE N

W INTE R 2 0 24

IN THIS ISSUE ISLAND HOPPING 14 O‘ahu: A Place of Noise Wahiawā in Central O‘ahu is a kind of gateway between town and country; however it’s so much more than that. BY KE VI N ALLE N

20 Maui: Sailing with Aloha Trilogy Excursions celebrates 50 years of excellence, resilience and aquatic adventures on Maui. BY ASH LE Y P ROBST

24 Kaua‘i: Go With the Flow Fluming down a historic irrigation ditch on Kaua‘i requires nothing but a laid-back attitude.

26 Hawai‘i Island: The Return of Kona Village Kona Village, a Rosewood Resort, is one of Hawai‘i Island's newest luxury resorts and keeps the charm and history of its predecessor. BY LAU RI E LYONS-MAK A IMOK U

26 DEPARTMENTS 7

Editor’s Page Huliau

Times’ Timeless Appeal

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Ho‘omaka

8 10 10 12

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54 Kau Kau

The Flower of Spring The Story Behind Cake Noodles Coconut Wireless Q&A with Volcanologist Ken Hon

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56 One Last Look PHOTO BY TO R JO HNS O N

58 Like a Local Ho, Howzit BY K E V IN A LLE N

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HAWAI‘I Magazine (ISSN 0892-0990) All contents copyright © 2024. Published quarterly by aio Media Group, 1088 Bishop St., Ste. LL2, Honolulu, HI, 96813-3113. Phone: (808) 534-7520/ Fax: (808) 537-6455. POSTMASTER: Please send address changes to HAWAI‘I Magazine, 1088 Bishop St., Ste. LL2, Honolulu, HI, 96813-3113. © 2024 aio Media Group, LLC. All rights reserved. Any unauthorized copying, distribution, or adaptation is strictly prohibited and will result in liability of up to $100,000. Periodicals Postage Paid at Honolulu, Hawai‘i and at additional mailing offices. Subscription rate is $19.99 for 4 quarterly issues. Canadian and foreign surface, add $9 extra per year payable in U.S. funds. Single copy price is $5.99 U.S., $5.99 Canadian. Please allow 6-8 weeks for new subscriptions to begin. When changing address, give six weeks’ notice and address label from latest copy, as well as new address with ZIP code. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please write us at aio Media Group, 1088 Bishop St., Ste. LL2, Honolulu, HI, 96813-3113. Phone: (808) 534-7520/Fax: (808) 537-6455 or send us an e-mail to circulation@pacificbasin.net. Unsolicited manuscripts and photographs are not accepted. Please wait for a response to your query before sending materials. Reasonable care in handling manuscripts and photographs will be taken, but HAWAI‘I Magazine cannot be responsible for unsolicited materials. Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation Dept., Station A, P.O. Box 54, Windsor, ON N9A 6J5; cpcreturns@wdsmail.com Printed in the U.S.A.

EDITORʼS PAGE

Huliau

The times are changing, but Hawai‘i is still paradise.

photo: aaron k. yoshino

WAS TALKING TO MY

surfboard ding repair guy, Roy, recently, about the concept of huliau (a time of change). Surrounding his little repair shack on Queen Street in Kaka‘ako on O‘ahu, where he gets most of his work done, dizzying new apartment complexes and high-rises are being built. The contrast is almost comical—his small workshop filled with surfboard guts and dust situated next to a multimillion-dollar condominium tower. When I asked him about all of the changes in the area, his reply was immediate: “Everything changes, you just have to learn to live with it.” I thought about this a lot recently when I made my way up to Wahiawā (page 14) to cover some of the new stores and shops there. Having grown up just 20 minutes from the Central O‘ahu town, and even taking music lessons from a music shop there for a year, I know the town has changed— in many ways for the better. But as I made my way through the Wahiawā Botanical Garden, which has thrived for decades in its quiet corner of Wahiawā, it was clear to me that while much about Hawai‘i has changed, many things have not. Tubing down an irrigation ditch at an old sugar plantation on Kaua‘i (page 24) is one of those things, and so is the simple joy of watching a blooming cherry blossom tree on the Big Island (page 8). Times Coffee Shop in Kailua (page 54) is a prime example of a longstanding business that has stayed true to its nature in a place that is constantly shifting. It’s also important to note that, while change is inevitable, sometimes all you have to do is look back at all of those old, comfortable, familiar places you’re used to with a fresh pair of eyes to see something you’ve never experienced before. Editor-at-large Catherine Toth Fox and ex-associate editor Grace Maeda did just that in our Hidden Maui feature (page 32), and to great success. There, they found an assortment of businesses, shops, restaurants and more that are new and old—and all very much worth checking out. Change really is unavoidable. However, if you

embrace the positive parts of that change—whether it’s all the new shops in your favorite old town on the North Shore, or that trail that you’ve been hiking all of your life that now requires a reservation—you can easily “learn to live with it,” as Roy would say. And really, so many of the best parts of Hawai‘i persist. The sun will still set over the Pacific. It will still rise gloriously in the east. Shakas will still be thrown, and that feeling of the sand under your feet will never change. Aloha,

KEVIN ALLEN

Email kevina@hawaiimagazine.com W INTE R 2 0 24

HO‘OMAKA

to begin

The Flower of Spring

The Islands’ cherry blossoms, also known as sakura, represent a beautiful merging of Japanese flora with Hawaiian landscapes, and you can see them on O‘ahu and Hawai‘i Island. BY KEV IN ALLEN

HAW A I ‘ I M A G A Z I N E

C U LT U R E

photos: aaron k. yoshino

OR MANY , seeing the cherry blossoms

bloom in Japan is a bucket-list item. But did you know Hawai‘i has its own collections of cherry blossom trees? In the small unassuming town of Wahiawā in Central O‘ahu, cherry blossoms, or sakura as they’re known in Japan, bloom every spring. The trees were grown from seeds that were brought to the Islands from Okinawa in the 1950s by Choro Nakasone, an Okinawan native who lived in Hawai‘i. Nakasone proceeded to grow them in his yard. (With a koi pond and eight blooming sakura trees, Nakasone’s yard became quite the attraction, and word-of-mouth quickly spread, leading to a line of cars alongside his property filled with visitors eager for a look.) From there, seedlings were propagated and donated to the community of Wahiawā, with many residents planting them OPPOSITE right in their front yards. And Cherry blossom you can see the trees in all their bloom on O‘ahu glory every year in early Februand Hawai‘i Island. ary when their blossoms begin ABOVE to bloom. If you have the time, Over 75 sakura a leisurely stroll around the have been planted in Waimea. streets of Wahiawā reveals doz-

| HO‘OMAKA

ens of the blooming cherry blossom trees, many of which trace back to the seeds originally propagated by Nakasone. It’s not just Wahiawā that has sakura. In the high-altitude climate of Waimea on Hawai‘i Island, cherry blossoms flourish. The trees were first brought to Waimea in 1953 as a living memorial to Fred Makino, who was a Japanese-American community activist and, in 1912, founded the Hawai‘i Hochi, a Japanese-language newspaper for immigrant laborers of the time. (As of press time, the newspaper was slated to close in December 2023.) In the early 1970s, nearly 70 more trees were planted at Church Row Park in Waimea by the Waimea Lions Club. Isami Ishihara, a Waimea gardener and bonsai master, was a key figure in making that happen. A cohesive merging of Japan and Hawai‘i, the sakura trees at Church Row Park have even spawned their own event, the annual Waimea Cherry Blossom Heritage Festival. Here, visitors and locals can learn more about Japanese culture and traditions and take part in mochi pounding, tea ceremonies and more. The 2024 Waimea Cherry Blossom Heritage Festival will take place on Saturday, Feb. 3. It’s free and open to the public. W INTE R 2 0 24

HO‘OMAKA |

FOOD

Coconut Wireless

Roasted duck mein with cake noodle from Golden Duck Restaurant.

Zippy’s Opens in Las Vegas

This Chinese dish is a local favorite and unique to Hawai‘i. BY MELISSA CHANG

ONOLULU’S CHINATOWN,

one of the oldest in the U.S., celebrates the Lunar New Year on Feb. 10. During this time of celebration—2024 marks the Year of the Dragon—we’re reminded of all the fantastic cuisine introduced to the Islands by our early Chinese immigrants. Local author Lynette Lo Tom, in doing research for her book “A Chinese Kitchen: Traditional Recipes with an Island Twist,” found that 80% of Hawai‘i’s Chinese population is linked to one village in southern China: Zhongshan in the Canton province. Thus, most of the Chinese food that we eat 10

HA WA I ‘ I M A G A Z I N E

Kin Wah Chop Suey 45-588 Kamehameha Highway, Kāne‘ohe, (808) 247-4812 Lagoon Chinese Restaurant 2628 Waiwai Loop, Honolulu, (808) 839-0808 Golden Duck 1221 S. King St., Honolulu, (808) 597-8088

Humpback Whale Season in Full Swing Every winter, from November through May, thousands of North Pacific humpback whales—or koholā in ‘ōlelo Hawai‘i (the Hawaiian language)—arrive in Hawai‘i from Alaska. The first whales of the 2023 season were spotted in October, and volunteers are currently in the midst of counting these protected marine mammals for research purposes. During the last 20 years, the North Pacific humpback whale population has grown from about 2,000 to more than 21,000 whales. Due to conservation efforts, koholā are no longer listed as an endangered species in Hawaiian waters.—CTF

photos: aaron k. yoshino, courtesy of zippy’s restaurants

The Story Behind Cake Noodles

in Hawai‘i is influenced by that area. Dim sum, of course, is the most famous example of Cantonese cuisine, but there are plenty of other dishes to try if you’re looking for the real flavor of Hawai‘i’s Chinese culture. Tom says that cake noodle, a local favorite, is a Chinese dish you’ll find nowhere else but in Hawai‘i. And many local residents consider themselves cake noodle connoisseurs. The perfect cake noodle is made of saimin noodles (the ones used in broth), which are first boiled, then double fried and cut into squares. Each square should be crispy on the outside and soft on the inside, then topped with meat and vegetables, and sometimes gravy. So where can you get a good cake noodle? The answer varies depending on who you ask, but here are some of the most popular places:

Thousands of people lined up outside the new Zippy’s Restaurant in Las Vegas on Oct. 10, 2023 as the popular Hawai‘i chain opened its first location outside of the Islands. The new 8,000-square-foot restaurant, located 15 minutes from The Strip, features a menu of local favorites, including chili, Korean fried chicken and the popular Zip Pac. Napoleon’s Bakery— with dobash cakes, cornbread and malasadas—opened, too. FCH Enterprises, the parent company of the Honolulubased restaurant chain, had been working on this project for four years, stalled by the COVID-19 pandemic. “This day just felt like it took forever to get to,” says Jay Kaneshiro, FCH Enterprises vice president of operations, “so we are really excited.” Zippy’s Restaurant, 7095 Badura Ave., Las Vegas, Nevada, zippys.com —Catherine Toth Fox

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Q&A

Q&A with Ken Hon

From the lava flow that destroyed the town of Kalapana to the recent historic eruption of Mauna Loa, Ken Hon, the scientist-in-charge at the Hawaiian Volcano Observatory on Hawai‘i Island, has seen it all—and there’s still more he’s learning about volcanoes. B Y CATH E R I N E TOTH F OX

HA WA I ‘ I M A G A Z I N E

Q&A

s the scientist-in-charge at the Hawaiian Volcano Observatory on Hawai‘i Island, Ken Hon has a much more exciting job than most of us. After all, he’s working on an island with two of the most active volcanoes in the world: Kīlauea and Mauna Loa. Hon, who grew up in Colorado, first moved to Hawai‘i Island in 1984, a year after Kīlauea began its longest major eruption in modern history. (It lasted until 2018.) During that eruption, in 1990, he witnessed the destruction of the coastal town of Kalapana, which sparked his interest in volcanic hazards and risk mitigation. He left Hawai‘i soon after—but he couldn’t stay away for long. Hon, who has a doctorate from the University of Colorado at Boulder with a focus on petrologic studies and geologic mapping of the internal structure of large ash-flow calderas, returned to the island with his wife— and fellow volcanologist— Cheryl Ganescki, in 1996. He worked as a professor in the geology department at the University of Hawai‘i at Hilo, teaching courses in volcanology and geology and taking students to see the lava in nearby Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park. “Taking people to see lava for the first time is a great experience,” says Hon, who has two kids, one who’s studying planetary geology and the other neuropsychology. “It’s something so profound, something they’ve never seen in their lives, and it has an effect on them. I really love what I do and I’m really fortunate I can follow my own interest and learn about this amazing process in such a beautiful place with such beautiful people.”

| HO‘OMAKA

guy who came into my office and said, “Hey, you wanna go to Hawai‘i?” I thought about it for two seconds and said yes. [Laughs] I could go study an active volcano? Sure, I’ll go do that!

What was your first impression of Hawai‘i’s volcanoes? It was kind of amazing. It was intimidating, too. Hawai‘i has got the most studied volcanoes in the world. This was 1987, and I didn’t know what I was going to do because I thought everybody knows everything. But after awhile, you look around and start seeing things, seeing what’s happening, and it turned out there were lots of things people hadn’t studied yet.

How did the experience of seeing the coastal town of Kalapana destroyed, affect you? It started a lifelong interest in volcanic hazards. It was a very profound experience. When something like that happens, you feel responsible for it, even though there was no way to stop it. It took me awhile to come to grips with that.

I feel very honored to have been able to see the What does the scientist-in-charge at Hawaiian Volcano earth doing the Observatory do? amazing things

Where did your interest in geology come from? As a kid, I collected rocks—to the point where my mom decided I should have my own little rock garden outside because I was dragging too many dirty rocks into the house.

photo: janice wei

When did you first study volcanoes? After I had graduated [with a geology degree], I went to work for a mineral exploration company. That’s when I started looking at volcanic rocks. … I studied old volcanoes in Yellowstone National Park. They’re about 20 million years old and eroded, and you can see 2 miles into the volcano. I found that to be really fun and interesting. By that point, I was working part time with the U.S. Geological Survey and studying wilderness areas, looking at mineral sources and mapping rocks. I was working with this

My job is to make sure the people I work with at HVO have interesting days. I’m here to provide the general direction and decision making about what we should be doing at HVO and our priorities. I make sure all of my folks have the resources to get their jobs done ... [Our priority is] to make sure we keep the community informed. The second is to better understand the volcanoes. Every time there’s an eruption, it’s an opportunity to see how the volcanoes behave and try to get a better understanding of them.

What’s an experience with Hawai‘i volcanoes that you’ll never forget? I’ve seen some pretty big eruptions, including the 2018 [Kīlauea] eruption. But Mauna Loa was incredible. On the first night of the eruption, I was in Kona and I came out of the hotel and the glow was just incredible, lighting up the sky like a giant lighthouse. A big, orange light was reflecting off the clouds. It was really impressive. During that eruption, I would get up in the morning and everybody all over [Hawai‘i Island] could see it. We were all looking at it, and I thought that was amazing. This interview was edited for length and clarity. W INTE R 2 0 24

Wahiawā in Central O‘ahu is a kind of gateway between town and country; however, it’s so much more than that. BY KEVIN ALLEN

HA WA I ‘ I M A G A Z I N E

photos: aaron k. yoshino

A Place of Noise

O ‘A H U

| ISLAND HOPPING

DON’T OFTEN stop in Wahiawā.

I’ve driven through it hundreds of times—growing up on the North Shore, I’d pass by the town on my way to, well, anywhere. Now that I live in Honolulu, I zip through Wahiawā on my way to surf in the country, but rarely do I stop. But the area has changed over the years. While the low-key charm and unapologetically local vibe of the town is unchanged, new shops, boutiques and places to eat have cropped up over the years. So I made it a mission recently to stop in Wahiawā and enjoy everything the place has to offer. One of the biggest changes here is the addition of a colorful spread of stores along Kamehameha Highway, the town’s main thoroughfare. Being a surfer who loves coffee, Surfers Coffee (63 Kamehameha Highway) speaks to me on a near-spiritual level. At this trendy café, vintage single-fin surfboards hang on the walls next to flatscreen TVs showing endless streams of

Surfers Coffee

W INTE R 2 0 24

ISLAND HOPPING |

O ‘A H U

The Vintage

WAHIAWĀ GRINDS

There are too many places to eat in Wahiawā for us to cover them all, so we’ve listed our five favorite spots below. Koa Pancake House:

Everything you’d want from a hometown diner, Koa Pancake House serves local-style breakfast plates, including classic loco mocos, and massive omelettes packed with meats and veggies. 703 California Ave., (808) 621-0123, koapancakehouse.com.

Chicken In A Barrel:

A Kaua‘i favorite that has made its way to O‘ahu, Chicken In A Barrel serves heaping portions of chicken, ribs or kālua pig paired with a scoop of white rice and a cup of chili. 167-A S. Kamehameha Highway, (808) 888-2400, chickeninabarrel.com.

‘Ohana Sub:

Sometimes, all you want for lunch are deli meats and fresh veggies, tucked away in a perfectly baked sub roll. For those times, head over to ‘Ohana Sub, which offers excellent hoagies. (I recommend trying the papaya seed dressing on your sub and if you like it, you can buy a whole bottle from the store.) 55 S. Kamehameha Highway, (808) 799-5799.

Of all of the places to get a Korean plate lunch on O‘ahu, Dong Yang Inn, for me, is the best. The meat jun is excellent, the barbecue chicken is absurdly good and the kimchi? Perfect. 546 Olive Ave., (808) 621-5031.

Maui Mike’s Fire-Roasted Chicken

Hope you’re in the mood for chicken, because that’s what Maui Mike’s got on the grill. Sourcing all-natural, cageless chickens, Maui Mike and his crew hand massage the meat, then slow-roast it for hours with Mike’s special seasoning. It tastes as good as it sounds. 96 S. Kamehameha Highway, (808) 622-5900, mauimikes.com.

HA WA I ‘ I M A G A Z I N E

surfing videos. Just note: Combating the hot weather, like I did, with an iced cold brew coffee and a freshly baked pastry from The Pâtisserie, a local bakery just down the road in Pearl City, might not be the best idea if you’ve got other things to do. I felt so at home in this cozy coffee shop, I didn’t want to leave. But to avoid ending my day prematurely, I stuck around to watch one more surf video and reluctantly departed. Steps away, I found myself in The Vintage (43 Kamehameha Highway), a vintage clothing and accessory store that, unlike some of its competitors, hasn’t forgotten that used clothing should be affordable. As an avid thrifter, I was happy to see the store well-stocked with aloha shirts from yesteryear, a good selection of jackets that fit my small frame surprisingly well and other apparel and accessories, such as kimono, an assortment of rings and necklaces, as well as shoes that could easily sneak their way into present-day fashion and outfits. Vinyl records, vintage artwork and myriad knickknacks fill the rest of the store, perfect for visitors looking for something to take home with them or 28-year-olds like myself with poor spending habits. Back on the street, I gaze at the stores on the strip I’ve yet to explore—surf and skate attire boutique SantaLoco (35 Kamehameha Highway) stands out to

photos: aaron k. yoshino

Dong Yang Inn:

O ‘A H U

me, especially since the shop also sells surfboards made by local shapers like J. Splee. I consider taking a closer look, but my wallet, which has been getting lighter by the hour, screams: Don’t do it! Jumping back into my car, I make a quick drive to the Wahiawā Botanical Garden (1396 California Ave.), where entry is free. It’s ironic that Wahiawā’s name in ‘ōlelo Hawai‘i translates to a “place of noise”—despite the ocean being about 10 miles away, the noise of the sea was said to be heard here. But that’s not what I heard at this botanical garden. Here, it’s serene. Aside from the rustling of leaves and the occasional birdsong, the space holds a certain auditory tranquility uncommon in Wahiawā. The garden began as land leased to the Hawaiian Sugar Planters’ Association for “experimental tree planting,” and was transferred back to the county of Honolulu in 1950. Seven years later, it opened as a botanical garden; today it spans 27 acres. I meander through the garden, enjoying the free-roaming nature of the place. There’s a handful of well-maintained trails to follow, but no big vistas or jaw-dropping views like you might find at other botanical gardens on the island. But the deeper you 18

HA WA I ‘ I M A G A Z I N E

go into the gardens, the more verdant your surroundings become, and massive camphor trees and rainbow eucalyptus provide excellent shade, making for comfortably cool walking conditions even on a hot day like today. Finally, I end my day in Wahiawā at Mānoa Honey & Mead (930 Palm Place), one of the only meaderies in the state. Finding a comfortable seat at its outdoor garden, I sip away at six varieties of mead, marveling at the smooth, sweet taste of the honey-wine. The meadery was started by Yuki Uzuhashi, a beekeeper from Japan, who took over Mānoa Honey in 2014. He wanted to make a drink that was fresh and fruity to pair with Hawai‘i’s tropical climes, and after purchasing a bottle of the store’s durian mead and sampling it after I got home, I can honestly say he’s accomplished just that. Wahiawā is a living reminder that you shouldn’t take familiar places and sights for granted. There will always be something you’ve never seen before, even here, a place that for many people seems like a town frozen in time. So if you have the time, stop in Wahiawā—the North Shore will still be there waiting for you after you’re pau (finished).

TOP LEFT A verdant walkway at Wahiawā Botanical Garden. LEFT There's blooming flora everywhere at this cozy botanical garden. RIGHT A delightful spread at Mānoa Honey & Mead.

photos: aaron k. yoshino

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Sailing With Aloha

Trilogy Excursions celebrates 50 years of excellence, resilience and aquatic adventures on Maui.

photos: courtesy trilogy excursions

BY ASHLEY PROBST

HA WA I ‘ I M A G A Z I N E

MAUI

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Star Noodle, Leoda’s Kitchen & Pie Shop and Feast at Lele.

for adults; from $70 for kids), an adults-only Captain’s Sunset Dinthe Maui sky is illuminated with a rich symphoner Sail ($149), and its Discover Lāna‘i ($279 for adults; from $185 ny of colors. I’m aboard the Trilogy catamaran, for kids) and Discover Molokini ($190 for adults; from $135 for on a voyage through time and nature. kids) snorkeling tours. Whale-watching excursions (from $85 for This journey is part of a legacy that dates adults; from $50 for kids) will operate as scheduled through whale back to the 1920s, when brothers Eldon and season, from Dec. 15, 2023, now to April 15, 2024. Afton Coon built a fishing boat in Washington and sailed While Trilogy works to overcome obstacles brought on by it to Alaska. Later, the brothers’ wanderlust and adventhe fire, I get to witness its resilience firsthand on my voyage. turous spirit led them on to the Valley Isle and set the I’m on the Mā‘alaea Sunset Sail, a two-hour boat ride into stage for what would become one of Maui’s first sailboat Mā‘alaea Bay, which offers impeccable views of the Maui coast, tour companies, Trilogy Excursions, founded in 1973. Tales of their early travels mirror the enduring spirit that drives the business to this day. Still owned and operated by the Coon family, Trilogy has offered topnotch excursions, including sunset sails, snorkeling and whale watches, for 50 years. But just over a month after celebrating its milestone anniversary in July 2023, tragedy struck: The town of Lahaina had been lost to the nation’s deadliest wildfire in over a century. “With the fires in Lahaina, we lost Trilogy VI; it was one of our oldest vessels,” says Capt. Nicholas O’Connell, the seasoned skipper who helms the sunset sail that I’m on. “We lost our restaurant, Kapena’s Wood Fired Kitchen. We were spared our offices and shops, but they were heavily damaged by smoke.” Despite unprecedented challenges, O’Connell says the Trilogy crew displayed remarkable heroism during the disaster and subsequent relief efforts. Company president Capt. Gabe Lucy gave his truck to a stranded family before navigating Trilogy V to Lāna‘i. Meanwhile, various captains from Trilogy stepped up as first responders and played pivotal roles in the Coast Guard’s rescue of 50 people who had escaped into the ocean. In the following weeks, dedicated crew members delivered much-needed supplies to West Maui, using both boats and trucks. In an effort to keep its crew employed and contributing to the local economy, Trilogy started offering tours exclusively out of Mā‘alaea For Reserved Seats Call (808) 667-1998 CHOICE A WA RS’ DE RD Harbor on Aug. 16. EA www.oldlahainaluau.com 2022 “We had seven boats prior to the FIRST PLACE fire and, right now, we’re only able to 1251 Front Street, Lāhaina run three of them out of this harbor,” O’Connell says. “We’re working on Along the ocean in Historic Lāhaina Town trying to get the rest of them going.” The company is currently runJoin us at our sister restaurants: BE ‘I ST O AI ning its Mā‘alaea Sunset Sail ($109 F HAW R

S THE SUN DIPS BELOW THE HORIZON ,

MAUI

Lāna‘i and Kaho‘olawe. After we step onto the vessel, members of each group get to pick where they’ll sit. The boat offers ample options, including comfortable cushioned benches along the inner part of the vessel. But my eyes light up when I notice the last available twotop table, which I eagerly claim for myself and my guest. Upon departing the harbor, we admire the captain’s impressive navigation skills. The boat slip we’re docked at is snug, but he maneuvers the vessel away as easily as a driver pulling a small car out of a big stall. As we venture farther into the open water, I recall a cherished childhood memory of an earlier trip with Trilogy, this one to Lāna‘i. A friend and I were at the front of the boat, joyfully bouncing in time with the rolling ocean waves. I still vividly remember what our captain said in reference to the delicious lunch we were served that day. “On this boat, we don’t eat until we’re full; we eat until we can’t chew anymore,” he declared to exuberant fanfare from the guests. This casual camaraderie is common aboard Trilogy. The crew excels in creating a warm, invit22

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ing atmosphere where every guest feels like part of its ‘ohana (family). An example of this unfolds on my voyage, when the crew gathers at the bow to hoist the sails. One crew member rallies the guests, inviting them to chant and cheer in support of another sailor who’s diligently hauling on the rope to raise the sails. Soon, two more crew members join in, and they work together to bring the sail to full mast. The atmosphere turns festive once drinks from the open bar begin to flow. Local selections from Maui Brewing Co. include the Sunshine Girl golden ale and a seasonal dragon-fruit seltzer. I order the Lāna‘i Tai, a mai tai made with mango rum, orgeat, fresh lime, ginger syrup, pineapple juice and a float of Potter’s dark rum. My guest opts for a classic Good Ol’ Fashioned with Redemption bourbon, agave syrup, Watkins bitters and a splash of water. As we savor our cocktails, we relish the unobstructed views of the surrounding islands and watch as folks capture stunning photos to commemorate their Hawaiian vacation. Although I’m already grateful for securing a table complete with cup holders, my appreciation

TOP LEFT Trilogy Excursions also offers a tour perfect for couples. LEFT Snorkeling packages are also available with Trilogy Excursions. RIGHT Sail to Molokini Crater with Trilogy for an unforgettable aquatic adventure.

photos: courtesy trilogy excursions

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MAUI From light appetizers to delectable desserts, you won't go hungry on a Trilogy Excursions tour.

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deepens when we’re served a pūpū (appetizer) platter, which, on a boat, is much more convenient than a full-course meal. The delectable assortment features light bites like hummus with celery, cucumbers and carrots; Kula cherry tomato and mozzarella skewers with an aged balsamic glaze; kalbi-style chicken satay; and a kālua pork slider. To sweeten the deal, a crew member offers chocolate-covered strawberries for dessert. While we enjoy the delicious food and drinks, it becomes clear why Trilogy is so frequently praised for crafting unforgettable moments on the water. For decades, the company’s been committed to providing top-notch trips every time it sets sail. As Capt. O‘Connell aptly says, “We didn’t make 50 years without running good trips, so if you want to come out to Maui, one of the best things you can do is come out on a Trilogy trip.” Trilogy Excursions offers tours on select days and times; reservations are required. For more information, visit sailtrilogy.com or book a tour by calling (888) 225-6284.

Go With the Flow

Fluming down a historic irrigation ditch on Kaua‘i requires nothing but a laid-back attitude. B Y C AT H E R I N E T O T H F O X

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K A U A‘ I

photos: courtesy backcountry adventures

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HAD A LOT OF QUESTIONS.

How cold is the water? How long is the drive? Am I going to freak out in the tunnels? Our guide answered all of my questions—“not very,” “not far,” “no worries”—before I hopped in the open-air, four-wheel-drive vehicle with my 6-yearold son to ride inner tubes down an old irrigation ditch. This is one of the tours offered by Kaua‘i Backcountry Adventures, an outfitter based in Līhu‘e that specializes in eco-adventures. (Another popular tour is its seven-line zipline course.) The 3-hour tubing adventure starts with a 30-minute drive through an old sugar cane plantation—Līhu‘e Plantation—the land of which is owned by AOL co-founder and Hawai‘i native Steve Case. He purchased 18,600 acres of land here in 2001 for about $25 million. The bulk of the land is zoned for either conservation or agriculture. Case opted to keep and maintain the existing irrigation system left by the sugar company—which is what we are about to flume down. We meet at the outfitter’s headquarters in Līhu‘e, a quick 6-minute drive from the airport. It’s a huge, open-air space, with bathrooms, changing rooms and lots of places to sit while you’re waiting. This is where we get briefed for the tube ride. The outfitter provides the helmet and gloves you’ll need on the ride. If you didn’t bring water-friendly shoes like Crocs or reef walkers, you can rent them here. The guides go over what to expect on the tour, from the bumpy 30-minute drive inland toward Mount Wai‘ale‘ale, one of the wettest spots on the planet, to the lunch we’ll be eating after. On the drive our guide explains what we’re seeing, from the expansive undeveloped land that was once a thriving sugar cane plantation to the unique geological landscape around us. We’re heading toward Mount Wai‘ale‘ale, a massive shield volcano that looms 5,148 feet above sea level. Often shrouded in clouds, it’s one of the world’s wettest spots, averaging 450 inches of rainfall a year. (By comparison, average yearly rainfall in Honolulu is 23 inches.) Fitting since its name means “overflowing water” in ‘ōlelo Hawai‘i (Hawaiian language). All seven of Kaua‘i’s rivers originate at the summit of Wai‘ale‘ale, including Wailua, the largest navigable river in Hawai‘i at 20 miles long. And erosion from all this water has carved canyons in the mountain’s flanks, most notably Kaua‘i’s Waimea Canyon, nicknamed the Grand Canyon of the Pacific. It stretches 14 miles long, 1 mile wide and more than 3,600 feet deep. Almost everything that lures visitors to Kaua‘i—the island’s magnificent waterfalls, the breathtaking canyon, the river-carved valleys—can be credited to Wai‘ale‘ale.

And that includes the water in the ditch we’re about to ride. We arrive at the start of the flume, removing our bags, towels and whatever else isn’t going with us in the inner tube. (The outfitter brings our stuff to the lunch site.) The guides help us ease into the tubes, warning that if any of us says the water is cold, they had permission to splash us. (The water wasn’t actually that cold.) We are floating in Hanamā‘ulu Ditch, which was dug by hand in 1870. It served as the conduit from Wai‘ale‘ale, carrying water 4 miles down the mountains to the sugar cane fields Līhu‘e Plantation Co., which originated in 1849 to 2000. (When it closed it was owned by Amfac, which also operatOPPOSITE ed Kekaha Sugar Co. About 400 workers lost their jobs.) Tubing down Hanamā‘ulu Ditch Today, the irrigation system is fun for the provides water for cattle entire family. ranchers—and Kaua‘i BackABOVE country has access to secThe cool water tions of it for this exclusive flows down from tubing tour. Mount Wai‘ale‘ale. W INTE R 2 0 24

TIPS You can wear Crocs.

They work as protective water footwear. The company rents them out if you don’t have water shoes.

Use sunscreen and bug repellent for mosquitoes.

Even though much of the ride is shaded, you’ll be eating lunch on outdoor picnic tables.

Bring a waterproof pouch for your smartphone for photos.

The company does snap photos at three locations on the ride.

The water is cool but not cold.

You don’t need a wetsuit or rashguard unless you’re using it for sun protection.

Leave your sunglasses. You won’t need them because you’re mostly under trees or in tunnels. If you want to bring them, attach a strap or retainer to them.

Claustrophobic?

Don’t worry. The tunnels are big, so you don’t feel confined. (Our guide played music and sang, and that really helped!)

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K A U A‘ I

The ditch varies in width, wide at first, then narrows to fit just a single tube. I immediately get separated from my son, who, I found out, is happily riding with another family. I take a deep breath and literally go with the flow. It feels more like a lazy river at first, a gentle push down the fern-lined open-air ditch. I lean back and take in the trees looming overhead. There are five tunnels along the ditch, all dug by hand with pickaxes and shovels, explain our guide. The shorter ones are straight; the longer ones are S-shaped. We come to the first tunnel. It’s short, about ¼-mile long. Our guide, who’s at the front of the pack, spins his tube around, pulls out an ‘ukulele and starts playing, “Sunday Morning” by Maroon 5. I have to say, the acoustics in the tunnel are amazing—and his singing helps me forget I’m floating in a dark tunnel. After the second tunnel, you have the option of getting out—it’s called the Ladder of Shame, though there’s no shame in exiting the ride. The constant spinning and bouncing off the ditch walls, coupled with the dark tunnels, isn’t an experience for everyone. But if you make it past the second tunnel, you’ll reach the highlight—at least for my son and me—of the ride: a fun (and very gentle) 3-foot water slide. There isn’t a person who’s shooting down the slide that isn’t smiling or laughing.

The third tunnel is the longest and darkest, and it takes a few minutes to get through it. The headlamps really help since the tunnel is S-shaped and I can’t see the end until the last turn. At least I can see the tunnel walls and the other riders around me. (I have no idea where my son is, but I can hear him laughing behind me.) It takes about an hour from the start of the flume to the end, when the ditch opens up and we can get out of our inner tubes and walk or swim. (I opt to stay in my tube and relax.) I find my son, wading in the cool waters with a huge smile on his face. “Mom! I found you!” “Were you looking for me?” “Not really.” The guides help us out of the water and we head to a few picnic tables on the bank of the ditch. We make our own sandwiches and load our plates with fresh fruits, chips and cookies. It’s nice to be in the sunshine—and sharing at least this part of the experience with my son. I’ve been to Kaua‘i dozens of times and I’ve done a lot of things, from snorkelLEFT ing off the Nāpali Coast to Kaua‘i Backcountry hiking all over Kōke‘e State Adventures provides Park. This tubing adventure everything you is, hands down, the most need for tubing. unique experience I’ve RIGHT had so far—and the only Kids as young as one my son keeps asking to 5 can enjoy this do again. unique adventure.

$149 per person, ages 5 years and older, 300-pound weight maximum, must be at least 43 inches tall. Cost includes lunch and water. (808) 245-2506, kauaibackcountry.com

photos: courtesy backcountry adventures

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This does not constitute an offer to sell nor the solicitation of an offer to purchase made in any jurisdiction nor made to residents of any jurisdiction, including New York, ® where registration is required. Tower Kauai Lagoons LLC of uses Timbers Resort, Collection® nor andmade certain Timbers names under a limited nonThis does not constitute an offer to sell nor the solicitation anthe offer to purchase madeTimbers in any jurisdiction to other residents of anybrand jurisdiction, including New York, ® transferable licenseisinrequired. connection withKauai the sales and marketing the Timbers HōkūalaResort, Kauai™ ® – A Timbers Resort® (the “Project”). If this license is terminated or expires without where registration Tower Lagoons LLC usesofthe Timbers Collection and certain other Timbers brand names under a limited non® renewal, the license Projectin will no longerwith be identified nor have any to use the Timbers andResort names. ® Artistic Renderings depicted in this advertisement are subject (the “Project”). If this license is terminated or expires without transferable connection the saleswith and marketing of right the Hōkūala Kauai™ – A marks Timbers to change. All rights reserved. ® renewal, the Project will no longer be identified with nor have any right to use the Timbers marks and names. Artistic Renderings depicted in this advertisement are subject to change. All rights reserved.

The Return of Kona Village Kona Village, a Rosewood Resort, is one of Hawai‘i Island’s newest luxury resorts and keeps the charm and history of its predecessor. B Y L A U R I E LY O N S - M A K A I M O K U

HA WA I ‘ I M A G A Z I N E

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photos: courtesy kona village, a rosewood resort

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HE MO‘OLELO (STORIES) OF STORIED KAHUWAI BAY

on the Kona Coast stretch back nearly a millennium, with its pre-contact history told through petroglyphs and features left behind at 21 archaeological sites. And the area’s newest chapter has just begun with the reimagining of Kona Village, a Rosewood Resort, Hawai‘i Island’s newest luxury hotel located right on the bay. Originally built in 1961, the resort was a relaxing hideaway, so remote it could only be accessed by boat or plane. Guests flew in with the mail and out with the laundry, creating lifelong memories at every turn. Guests returned to Kona Village year after year, bringing their ‘ohana, who in turn brought their ‘ohana. Now, stories from that era are woven into the fabric of Kona Village, too, with cocktails named for a cheeky monkey named Darwin and an entire bar made from the shipwrecked boat of Johnno Jackson, the original owner of the resort. In 2011 a tsunami wiped out the place, and in 2016 it was purchased by California developer Kennedy Wilson, who resurrected the resort. Kona Village reopened as a Rosewood Resort in July 2023, and while it represents everything that a modern, luxury traveler would expect, the feel of the old place lives on. Both the demolition and rebuild of Kona Village were guided by a pledge to disrupt the land as little as possible. Led by Greg Warner, who grew up in Hawai‘i, of San Francisco-based Walker Warner Architects, the resort is a modern marvel when it comes to sustainable building. One of the driving forces at Kona Village, sustainability can be seen everywhere, from the recycled plastic that replaces the coconut fronds on thatched roofs to the 8,000plus solar panels that help the resort create its own energy (the first resort in Hawai‘i to be able to do so). To help develop a sense of place in Hawai‘i for its visitors, the resort engages with its surroundings with daily programming, a cultural center, lū‘au, and the Rosewood Explorers Keiki Club. It also engages lineal descendants, cultural practitioners and former employees to help guide how that sense of place is represented.

There’s no shortage of things to do at the 81-acre resort. My ‘ohana and I checked out bicycles from the resort to help get us around, but most of our time was spent lounging in and around the two main pool complexes. We enjoyed cocktails and poolOPPOSITE side grinds like kanpachi poke and grilled shrimp. Our The resort is favorite parts were the complimentary daily afternoon situated on an surprises, from the arrival of a shave ice cart to some81-acre parcel of land fronted by thing called “coconut o’clock,” when staff roll around a Kahuwai Bay. cart of fresh coconuts for guests to drink from (and for TOP adults, the coconuts are topped off with rum and lime). It's easy to lounge Dining at Kona Village is a big part of the expethe day away at rience, and to eat here, you don’t have to be a hotel Kona Village. guest—this community-oriented resort’s restaurants BOTTOM are open to the public. For date night we enjoyed raw Enjoy unique mai plates at Moana, one of the resort’s premier in-house tais and cocktails eateries that sources its fresh land and sea ingredients at the resort's bar. W INTE R 2 024

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locally. The meal included a unique preparation of oysters with a shoyu foam, scallop crudo and Kona kanpachi with apple gelee and shiso. Appetizers included a delightful agnolotti that highlighted corn from Kahuku, on O‘ahu, as well as a lovely miso kanpachi. For family dinner the next night we dug our toes into the sand at Kahuwai Cookhouse and watched the sun set over the bay while enjoying a spread of wood-fire grilled dishes that included a delightful grilled Caesar salad and a couple of hearty plates of ribs. As amazing as the dinners and poolside meals are, the dishes that are currently taking up the most space in my brain are from the stunning breakfasts at Moana: over-the-top delicious French toast soaked in coconut milk, a chia bowl with fresh mango that walks the line between savory and sweet, bread service with an assortment of pastries, and tasty egg dishes that are equal parts healthy and filling. In addition to the restaurants, guests can grab a drink at Talk Story Bar and Shipwreck Bar, both of which have their own incredible stories to tell. Here, guests can experience the resort’s unique beverage program, sans the same tired tropical hits that you can find almost anywhere. Instead, the folks here create unexpected tiki drinks that are familiar, yet unique. Each bar has its own signature mai tai, distinguished by the type of orgeat used; in addition to classic almond, guests can try peanut and macadamia nut versions of these unique mai tai. These are the bars to visit for on-trend yet innovative beverages. Kilo Kai Ocean Activities was another favorite feature of the resort. Our whole ‘ohana joined a few other families for pond fishing. All of the invasive tilapia pulled from the pond are sent to Ke Kai Ola Marine Mammal Center where they are fed to rehabilitating Hawaiian monk seals. Getting in the water with the friendly Kilo Kai team was one of our most memorable experiences. My free-diver husband, who 30

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spends a lot of time underwater, turned into a giddy kid during our hour exploring the reefs and coastlines of Kahuwai Bay with a Seabob handheld seascooter. While he went deep down to explore the reef, I enjoyed cruising along the surface. It was a relaxing ride. We also spent lots of time enjoying our lagoon-view hale (home), one of 150 standalone units. Each hale includes modern decor and furnishings, exquisite bathrooms and outdoor spaces for guests to enjoy. The expansive lānai (veranda) is the perfect place to relax and enjoy the lagoon and also served as our dining area. I spent more time in the bathroom than the parlor, with a perfectly deep oval tub, indoor shower with three different showerheads and an outdoor shower that’s fun for bathing under the stars. With so much attention to detail, Kona Village, a Rosewood Resort, embodies the spirit of ho‘okipa (hospitality), particularly with its exceptional staff. For a truly unforgettable experience that will inspire your own stories for years to come, Kona Village is certainly worth saving up for. Book your stay at Kona Village, a Rosewood Resort, by calling (808) 865-2545 or visit rosewoodhotels.com/en/kona-village.

LEFT Guests can enjoy their stay in peace with a standalone hale (bungalow). RIGHT Some rooms come equipped with a view of the bay right from your bed.

photos: courtesy kona village, a rosewood resort

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HIDDEN MAUI BY G RAC E M A E DA & C AT H E R I N E TOT H FOX

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photo: travis morrin

Maui is one of the most beloved—and visited—islands in Hawai‘i, and for good reason. Gorgeous beaches, epic hikes, an array of restaurants and boutiques—it's truly a traveler’s dream. But the island still has surprises, from tucked-away accommodations to secret spots that only locals know about. Here are some of the Valley Isle’s hidden treasures.

OUTDOORS Pīpīwai Trail, Kīpahulu

On the rugged eastern side of Maui is the Kīpahulu district of Haleakalā National Park. Most drive the winding 52-mile Hāna Highway to get to this part of Maui, gawking at waterfalls and stopping at roadside stands for homemade banana bread. (We highly recommend that!) But few go past the sleepy town of Hāna to this area of the national park— and to the start of the Pīpīwai Trail. This 4-mile out-and-back trail follows a string of pools and waterfalls and meanders through a Zen-inspiring bamboo forest to the 400-foot Waimoku Falls. It’s not a long hike, but steep terrain and slippery paths can make it a bit challenging.

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ACTIVITIES

Surf with a Service Animal, Lahaina

Maui is home to many surf schools, but few teach you how to ride your first wave with a 70-pound Staffordshire bull terrier onboard. James Pamplin and his K9 partner, Church, offer the unique lessons. Church, a certified service dog and therapy animal, is the ultimate tandem surfer, balancing on the nose of the board while visitors ride their first waves. For more information or to book a lesson, visit beachfreshmaui.com

Haleakalā Creamery, Kula

This family-run micro farm in Upcountry Maui offers 75-minute “farm-to-spoon” tours of its 5-acre goat farm and creamery on the scenic slopes of Halekalā. The tour includes feeding the farm’s two dozen dairy goats and learning how to milk them. (Yes, you get to milk a goat, too!) But the best part is sampling the farm’s specialty products, including its small-batch goat milk caramel sauces and “goatlato,” ice cream made from goat milk. Tours run on Friday mornings only and are limited to 12 guests. (Visits are by reservations only.) 170 Ho‘omaika‘i Place, Kula, (808) 7563958, haleakalacreamery.com

Maui Alpaca, Makawao Janet Baldwin bought her first three alpaca on a fluke. “I didn’t know a thing about them,” she says with a laugh. Today, she runs Maui Alpaca on an 8-acre farm—once a healing retreat—with 13 alpaca and a bunch of ultra-fluffy angora rabbits. On an hourlong tour of the farm, you can feed and snuggle with these adorable camelids. The farm raises two fleece types—suri and huacaya—and processes some of their wool on-site. (Most of it is processed on the mainland, but the high-value yarn is returned and sold at the farm’s gift shop.) You’ll learn about the entire process, too, from how the alpaca are fleeced to how the yarn is made, on the Paniolo Picnic tour, which runs 90 minutes and includes a picnic-style lunch. 505 Auli‘i Drive, Makawao, (808) 500-2577, mauialpaca.com

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While the Hawaiian Islands are famous for year-round sunshine and warmth, Hawai‘i is actually the coldest place on Earth where cacao can grow. At about 20 degrees north of the equator, the Islands are on the edge of the tree’s cultivation range. At Maui Ku‘ia Estate Chocolate, innovative and sustainable agriculture practices help to grow prosperous cacao trees, from which world-renowned chocolates are crafted. Situated on the island’s west side, Maui Ku‘ia Estate Chocolate invites connoisseurs and those curious about the chocolate process to tour its factory. Here, visitors see how carefully selected cacao beans are crafted into award-winning chocolate in the company’s 100% solar-powered facility. The sweetest part: the samples throughout the tour. 78 Ulupono St., Suite 1, Lahaina. Tours run 90 minutes; $100 per person, mauichocolate.com

photos: aaron k. yoshino

Maui Ku‘ia Estate Chocolate Factory Tour and Tasting, Lahaina

Maui Bees, Kula With flavors reminiscent of caramel and butterscotch, the locally harvested honey from Maui Bees can be eaten by the spoonful. But there’s more to Maui Bees than just honey. The apiary opened a farm stand on the slopes of Haleakalā, just up the road from Kula Highway. In addition to its raw honey, the stand is stocked with artisan breads, gluten-free brownies, kombucha, jams and soups all made either on the farm or by local vendors. For a quiet and sweet spot, swing by Maui Bees, sample some honey and breathe in the refreshing Upcountry air. 150 Pulehunui Road, Kula, mauibees.com

Sun Yat-sen Memorial Park, Kula Rolling hills, lavender gardens, the sea of purple jacaranda trees and enchanting views are all trademarks of Upcountry Maui. But those that venture beyond Kula Country Farms and Grandma’s Coffee House will discover Sun Yat-sen Memorial Park in Kēōkea. Here, all the grandeur of Upcountry can be enjoyed. And with so few visitors, the park is an idyllic place to set up a picnic or just delight in the views of Kīhei, Wailea and neighboring islands. The park also marks the connection between the Valley Isle and the Chinese Revolution of 1911. Like the park itself, the story is a little-known slice of the island’s history. Named after Dr. Sun Yat-sen, plaques throughout the park illuminate his influential role in overthrowing the Qing dynasty and establishing the Chinese Republic in 1912. But before Sun became a revolutionary leader, he was a schoolchild in Honolulu, where he was exposed to cultures, constitutions and philosophies from around the world. Sun Yat-sen Park, 13434 Kula Highway, Kula; gates to the parking lot are open from 7 a.m.-7 p.m. and there are no restrooms at the park.

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OUTDOORS

Nāpili Bay, Nāpili

Nāpili Bay is perfect for those looking for world-class beaches without world-class crowds. Here, there’s plenty of sandy real estate to lay down your towel and soak in picturesque views of the Pacific and the neighboring island of Moloka‘i. In the winter playful humpback whales return to Maui’s warm waters and put on a spectacular show. And when the surf is mellow, the beach is great for snorkeling; honu (Hawaiian green sea turtles) often visit Nāpili Bay’s reefs, just offshore.

Maluaka Beach, Wailea

Located south of Wailea, this peaceful sandy stretch fronts calm waters brimming with marine life, making for excellent snorkeling. Here, vibrant coral reefs and sea arches lie just beneath the surface. But Maluaka Beach is best known for the honu that frequent its waters, earning the nickname Turtle Town. And after a day of exploring the diverse underwater life, be sure to stick around to watch the sun set over the Pacific. Off the beach, calm glassy waters shimmer with vibrant shades of red and orange.

Hosmer Grove Trail, Haleakalā This trail, which begins close to the entrance to Haleakalā National Park—and yes, you have to pay the $30-per-vehicle entrance fee—circles through a diverse forest where you can spot Hawaiian honeycreepers endemic to the Islands. The beginning of the 0.6-mile trail loops around nonnative trees, many that were planted in 1910 by ranchers in an attempt to slow hillside erosion and jump-start the timber industry on Maui. You’ll walk past lodgepole pines native to the western U.S., messmate eucalyptus from Australia and sugi pine from Japan. But as you continue to stroll along the trail, you’ll enter a native forest with old-growth koa and ‘ōhi‘a trees, ‘a‘ali‘i, pilo and māmane. Stop at the lookout and catch endemic scarlet ‘i‘iwi (Hawaiian honeycreeper) and white-rumped ‘apapane flitting about. The nature walk should take less than an hour, including stops. On your way down the volcano, stop at Maui Tea Farm (mauiteafarm.com) for a cup of locally grown tea.

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The tucked-away beach on the northern tip of Kīhei’s Kama‘ole Beach Park I—there are three in total—is called Charley Young Beach, named after a man who once lived here. This golden-sand stretch is hidden behind residential homes and condos, making it less crowded than other beaches in the area. The aquamarine waters are generally calm and great for snorkeling. And its location—on Maui’s south shore—makes it a perfect spot for catching sunsets.

photo: aaron k. yoshino

Charley Young Beach, Kīhei

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LODGING Ho‘olio House, Lahaina Noted for its Bali-inspired design and beloved for the owners’ hospitality, Ho‘olio House is a luxurious B&B in the foothills of the West Maui Mountains, south of Lahaina. This gorgeous home sits on 2 acres, with six uniquely decorated rooms that each have a private lānai, entrance and outdoor shower. Breakfast is served every morning in the common area—which boasts a stunning ocean view— and guests can pick what they want the night before, from freshly baked goods to farm-fresh fruits. (There are even vegan and gluten-free options.) Note: It’s an adults-only B&B.

photos: courtesy lumeria maui, courtesy ho‘oilo house, chris archer

138 Awaiku St., Lahaina, (808) 667-6669, hooliohouse.com

‘Īao Valley Inn, Wailuku The moment you walk onto the lush 5.6-acre property in Upcountry Maui, you get what Lumeria Maui is all about: transformation. Somehow this retreat, just a 5-minute drive from the bustling beach town of Pā‘ia, seems secluded, an oasis that instantly makes you feel like you’re on vacation. The main structure was originally built in 1910 as a retirement home for Maui residents who had fought in World War I; later, it was used as housing for sugarcane plantation workers. Today it’s a 24-room wellness retreat, complete with a spa, yoga studio and restaurant that boasts nourishing farm-to-table cuisine.

Nestled on 37 lush acres, ‘Īao Valley Inn is where guests can find a peaceful and private home away from home. At the family-run bed and breakfast, guests are surrounded by the island’s verdant tropical flora. This hidden gem on ‘Īao Valley Road is miles away from busy resort areas—and just a short drive from ‘Īao Valley State Park and artsy Wailuku town, and just about a half an hour away from the warm beaches of Pā‘ia.

1813 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, (808) 579-8877, lumeriamaui.com

80 ‘Īao Valley Road, Wailuku, iaovalleyinn.com

Lumeria Maui, Makawao

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FOOD

Wabisabi Soba and Sushi, Pā‘ia Wabi sabi is the Japanese art of seeing beauty in imperfection and celebrating cracks and crevices that mark time and weather. It embraces the elegance in simplicity and slowing down. And Wabisabi Soba and Sushi invites you to do just that: to slow down and enjoy a bowl of handmade buckwheat soba noodles. Here, diners can find a respite from Pā‘ia’s bustling crowds. So sit down at the communal dining table in the family-run restaurant’s Zen garden or sit at the sushi counter made from Japanese cherry wood, relax and enjoy. 161 C Hāna Highway, Pā‘ia, wabisabihawaii.com 38

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There’s already a line outside this tiny bakery in the heart of Wailuku—and it’s not even open yet. While Four Sisters is also a catering company, the folks in line are here for one thing: pastries. Buttery butter rolls, sugarcoated yeast doughnuts, moist banana bread, gooey cinnamon rolls—everything here is soft, buttery and super fresh. Pro tip: Get a container of pineapple-flavored cream cheese from the fridge to smear on your butter rolls. (There’s also pimento-flavored cream cheese and pickled mango.) 1968 E. Vineyard St., Wailuku, (808) 244-9333, foursisterskitchen.com

photos: aaron k. yoshino

Four Sisters Bakery & Catering, Wailuku

Vida by Sip Me, Makawao

For those who can’t resist a cozy café, make sure to stroll down Baldwin Avenue to Vida by Sip Me. Regular visitors to Makawao recall Sip Me, the town’s community coffee hub. It was heartbreaking when the café closed in November 2021 after seven years in business. But it was a comforting and encouraging sight for owner Laura Night to see her customers return when she opened the doors to Vida by Sip Me in November 2022. While still preserving the spirit of Sip Me, Night and her business partner restyled the business with a fresh name and appearance. At Vida by Sip Me, expect to find beverages spanning high-quality third-wave coffees, herbal lattes, cold-pressed juices and locally crafted kombucha. Of course, customers can still order Sip Me’s popular cinnamon rolls, along with a daily assortment of fresh pastries, too.

Kitoko Maui, Kīhei Kitoko Maui is an exquisite establishment. Parked in South Maui Gardens, a 7-acre plant nursery and community space in Kīhei, the food truck serves beautiful bento boxes packed with braised beef, seared swordfish and tofu that taste as delicious as they look. The same impressive intention of flavor pairings goes into the dessert menu, which includes macadamia nut caramel tiramisu, liliko‘i (passion fruit) meringue pie and homemade sorbet. 35 Auhana Road, Kīhei, @kitokomaui

Miyako Sushi, Wailuku This mom-and-pop snack shop in Wailuku draws in customers for its inari, maki sushi and local-style snacks. And like a true hole-in-the-wall, Miyako Sushi only takes cash. But curious customers should wander over to the other half of the store to Mike’s Antiques and Collectibles. Here, you can peruse antique glass bottles from Hawai‘i’s past, Japanese kokeshi dolls, sports memorabilia and more—all while snacking on a Spam musubi or boiled peanuts.

photos: aaron k. yoshino, courtesy miyako sushi

1883 Wili Pa Loop, Wailuku, miyakosushimaui.com

3671 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, vidabysipmemaui.com

Maui Specialty Chocolate, Kahului

As the name suggests, this family-run shop is known for its handmade artisanal chocolates and chocolate confections, like rocky road, chocolate-covered Oreos and chocolates in the shape of dolphins, humpback whales and even the island of Maui. But what locals really come here for is the mochi—delicate, soft Japanese rice cakes filled with peanut butter and milk chocolate, dark chocolate truffle or traditional azuki (sweet red bean paste). The mochi is made fresh every day and sells out fast. Best to order ahead. 180 E .Wakea Ave., Kahului, (808) 871-1222, mauispecialtychocolates.com

Happy ‘Ōpū, Kahului

Chef Jason Kashtan didn’t originally set out to open a manapua shop on Maui. But when he opened Happy ‘Ōpū—‘ōpū in ‘ōlelo Hawai‘i means stomach—in Kīhei in January 2023, he knew he was onto something. There aren’t many places on Maui that serve manapua, chewy steamed or baked buns filled with meat or veggies. (It’s a local take on Chinese bao.) And Kashtan makes his from scratch every day, filled with sweet char siu pork, curry chicken, and kālua pork and cabbage. He also serves decadent ‘Ōpū Rolls with a thin layer of fresh mochi. 60 E. Wakea Ave., Kahului, (808) 500-2522, @happyopumaui

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SHOPS The Monarch Collective, Makawao From ceramic plant pots and puka shell earrings crafted on Maui to silk dresses hand dyed on Kaua‘i, at The Monarch Collective shoppers can find an eclectic mix of goods by the Islands’ emerging artists. The bright shop in Makawao town evokes a soft and feminine aesthetic, celebrating handmade pieces and small-batch work. 3682 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, monarchcollectivemaui.com

Paradise Now, Wailuku Opened by local artist Jaclynn Sabado-Eitel, Paradise Now is a colorful art and apparel emporium in the heart of Wailuku town. From prints of Ho‘okipa Beach Park and ‘ōhi‘a lehua to dresses adorned with pua kenikeni and shirts spotted with ‘opihi, Sabado-Eitel’s bright and whimsical paintings and apparel are inspired by life in Hawai‘i. Shoppers can also browse a selection of products by local artisans, including soap from Keālia Organics, candles by Hale Plume and Hawaiian chili pepper sauce from Kaua‘i Juice Co. Stop by the boutique to find unique Hawai‘i gifts.

LoveUp Boutique, Pā‘ia Looking around at well-curated consignment shop LoveUp Boutique is like browsing through your most stylish friend’s closet. Shoppers can find this hidden gem perched above Cafe Des Amis on Baldwin Avenue in Pā‘ia. Here, you’ll find a budget-friendly selection of chic coastal clothing labels and popular local bikini brands. 42 Baldwin Ave., Pā‘ia

HA WA I ‘ I M A G A Z I N E

photos: aaron k. yoshino, courtesy paradise now, courtesy loveup boutique

7 N. Market St., Wailuku, shopparadisenow.com

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BLOOD, SWEAT AND

GEARS At Kaua‘i Raceway Park, drivers push their cars and themselves to the limit. BY KEVIN ALLEN

PHOTOS BY AARON K. YOSHINO

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A A FRACTION OF A SECOND. That’s what it’s all about. The late-night track preps. The early morning tow. The money. The time. All for a fraction of a second. On the west coast of Kaua‘i, past the small country town of Kekaha—where, for many, farmers markets and shoreline fishing are the premier weekend activities—lies a strip of pavement that’s seen more action than a lot of roads in Hawai‘i. You’d miss it, if not for the sign that reads “Kaua‘i Raceway Park.” And it’s here, on the westernmost National Hot Rod Racing Association racetrack in the United States, that racers compete to see who’s the fastest. Tony Ricci, president of the Garden Isle Racing Association, or GIRA, which governs the track and hosts drag racing events throughout the year, is probably the busiest guy on the field. The wide-smiling race official hails from New York but has been living in Kekaha for over 30 years. He stares intently down the track as the “tree”—the electronic countdown lights at the start line—drops from yellow to green. In a flash, a pair of racers in souped-up cars take off. They reach speeds over 150 mph, covering the quarter-mile distance in just under 10 seconds. Ricci smiles. This is what he and the rest of the drivers, pit crews and families here live for. 44

HA WA I ‘ I M A G A Z I N E

Tony Ricci, president of the Garden Isle Racing Association

“We do it out of love,” says Ricci, who has served as the president of GIRA for just over a decade, “and we do it for a bigger purpose.” Ricci got involved with the racetrack 15 years ago, after talking with his then-teen son, who along with dozens of other Kekaha boys, would race on the island’s empty country roads. As a drag racer

himself—Ricci raced motorcycles for years with the Harley-Davidson drag racing team—he wanted to know why his son and other local kids raced on public roads instead of the track at Kaua‘i Raceway Park. Turns out they just couldn’t afford to go to the track, he says, which is owned and leased out by the state. So Ricci got involved. On a grassy knoll overlooking the track, there are stands for spectators. Across the raceway, a control tower monitors the track; it’s the computational brain for the high-tech laser systems that record the speeds and times of race cars. The road is smooth and made for racing, with guardrails and firefighting equipment set at regular intervals. But the place wasn’t always so refined. When the track was built, in 1969, it was essentially a strip of blacktop on dirt and not much else. Before the track could be completed, the governing body in office state officials pushing for the raceway left, and the Kaua‘i Raceway Park was left in limbo for decades. Fortunately, people who love to race are crazy. The level of dedication and passion racers have for their sport borders on mania, but it’s because of this addiction that the track has thrived. Even before Ricci got involved with GIRA, a crew of volunteers turned the track into a race-worthy strip, creating their own barricades with tires and fixing the pavement, all out of pocket. However, to make the track safe enough for street racing for teens, Ricci and the GIRA committee began working with the Kaua‘i Council and state Legislature to secure funding for repairs and improvements. “We ended up with $2.5 million to redesign the track and pay engineers and all that,” says Ricci. “And then we needed another million dollars to redo the surface, and that went over a bit so we needed an additional half-a-million to make sure we could also pull electrical be-

cause before, there was no power here and people would just set up a big generator for lights.” Fortunately, with the money in the right hands, the track was transformed into the NHRA-sanctioned track it is today, and after years of development and renovation, it was awarded the NHRA Most Improved Track award in 2014. And GIRA was also able to start a youth program for young racers age 8 to 16, getting them off the street and onto the track. One such young dragster is on the track right now. Heating up his tires by burning out, which helps them stick to the road better, Nahoa inches forward, his dad and uncle helping to guide the custom-built dragster along. Finally, they back off and now it’s just Nahoa, the lights and the track. Yellow turns to green and he shoots off the line, topping out at 50 mph and making it to the finish line in 12 seconds. Nahoa, at 8 years old, has just completed his first drag race. “They’re the future; they’ll eventually take over and start taking care of the track,” says Ricci, who understands that the role of GIRA and the Kaua‘i Raceway Park is to help raise up the community’s next generation of racers. “You always want the next crew to be better than you were and to be moving forward.” Fortunately, as it turns out, drag racing is a sport dominated by families. In some pit crews, like Ricci’s, there are three generations of drivers, from grandpas to granddaughters, all prepping for their races. And it makes sense. Most of these cars are built by hand by drivers and their crews, with expenses skyrocketing into the tens of thousands.

We do it out of love —Tony Ricci

Kaua‘i Raceway Park is the westernmost National Hot Rod Racing Association racetrack in the U.S.

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And while the barrier to entry can be high, fiscally, many junior dragsters get their start by inheriting hand-me-down cars from family members. On race day, the track is a beautiful cacophony of noise. Engines are stress tested, cars are burning out on the track, pit crews are buzzing with activity. And it’s all for a brief moment of unadulterated speed. The races work like this: Racers will set their times—how fast they think their cars can make it down the quarter-mile track—and will essentially race against themselves. The closer they can get to their time, the better they do. If they make it to the end faster than their set time, they’re disqualified—and that’s where the science comes in. From the temperature on the track to the wind speed, the humidity in the air and the time of day, everything matters. And for drivers, they’re all racing for a fraction of a second, to pass the line as close to their time as possible, and no faster. Thanks to the wizardry of the track’s aforementioned high-tech computer and laser beam measurement system, two wildly different cars can race against each other on a level playing field. And, as many drivers will say, much of the race is determined by the driver’s reaction speed off the line. Once the tree falls, drivers are off the line in—hopefully—under a second. A good time would be half a second; many drivers are even faster off the start line. And it’s in these minuscule moments of time that these drivers thrive. And for spectators, it’s a thrill watching all of their favorite Hot Wheels come to life. Many of the race cars here are so modified, so souped up, that they’re no longer even street legal—most are towed to the track in the wee hours of the morning for day races. GIRA

George and Linda Matsuda

runs through a variety of formats throughout the day, from drag races to “door slammer” runs to motorcycle races. (A door slammer is slang for a street car, one with doors, that has been modified to go at extreme speeds). With little downtime between races, spectators are given a near-nonstop show as racers take off one after the next. It’s loud, it’s fast and it’s one of the best ways to spend an afternoon on Kaua‘i. At the end of the road, waves break on an empty shoreline. “Yeah, we’re probably the only raceway with a beach,” says Ricci. Here, it’s quiet. You can’t hear the revving of engines and the chorus of people looking to Ricci for administrative advice—that’s all waiting for him a quarter-mile down the road. Like pretty much every driver at the Kaua‘i Raceway Park, Ricci has dedicated so much to the pursuit of racing. It’s an insane amount of work to make the track race-worthy come race day. Race crews come out three days in advance of the races, around 6 p.m. after their members finish up at their day jobs, to begin the laborious process of laying rubber on the road. And they’ll be there till past midnight. The only night they don’t come to prep is the night before the races. That time is spent working on their cars. To the community and members of the Garden Isle Racing Association, however, all the work, effort, blood, sweat and gears is just part of the process. Sitting under his pit tent, George Matsuda, stares at his 1948 Fiat replica, which he’s owned for “quite some time.” “My life would have no meaning without this,” he says, with a degree of certainty you can only get through a lifetime of racing. For more information on the upcoming 2024 Garden Isle Racing Association event schedule, visit dragracekauai.com. W INTE R 2 0 24

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All in the ‘Ohana

photo: hawai‘i tourism authority (hta) / ben ono

Going on a Hawai‘i vacation with the family is exciting and fun, but let’s face it, planning your itinerary can be stressful. After all, there are hotels to book, activities to plan and restaurants to find. The good news: We’re here to help. This handy guide includes everything you need to know to put together a family-friendly trip to the Aloha State.

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Family-Friendly Activities From hiking to snorkeling to wandering around a mall, Hawai‘i offers an array of activitites suitable for everyone in your family. (Yes, even that hard-to-please teenager.)

All in the ‘Ohana

Swim with Manta Rays Keahou, Hawai‘i Island Take an evening paddle in a double-hull canoe to witness one of Hawai‘i’s most treasured ocean friends—the majestic manta ray! The experience is sure to be memorable as you get up close and personal, snorkeling in the water or watching from the boat. And with just six people per tour, it feels like a private excursion for your family. Anelakai Adventures, anelakaiadventures.com

Pick Strawberries Kula, Maui

Immerse Yourself in All Things Ocean Maui Ocean Center brings your ‘ohana below the water’s surface: Walk through a 54-footlong underwater tunnel surrounded by manō (sharks), visit Turtle Lagoon to observe Hawai‘i's cherished honu (Hawaiian green sea turtles) and take an immersive journey with life-sized koholā (humpback whales) in the 3D “Humpbacks of Hawai‘i” Sphere Experience (ages 4 and older). During winter, watch for whales on Mā‘alaea Bay. Better yet? Borrow a pair of binoculars from the aquarium’s award-winning Seascape restaurant and view them while you dine. Maui Ocean Center, mauioceancenter.com

Take a Helicopter to Jurassic Falls

photo: courtesy maui ocean center, island helicopters

Manawaiopuna Falls, Kaua‘i

Only one company can land you to Hawai‘i’s most famous waterfall. Island Helicopters specializes in providing personalized tours for guests of all ages, including one of the most elite excursions in the state, the Jurassic Falls Landing Adventure. Its superior and truly unique flights were created to capture the true essence of the Garden Island. Only a helicopter tour can give you the up-close and personal panoramas of Kaua‘i’s many remote and scenic areas. Island Helicopters Kaua‘i, islandhelicopters.com

The majestic slopes of Haleakalā offer the perfect backdrop to this seasonal experience (February to June). Pick your own delicious and juicy strawberries and enjoy family-friendly farm activities including interactive displays and animal exhibits. Food vendors and specialty gift items are also available. Kula Country Farms, kulacountryfarmsmaui.com

Milk Dairy Goats Kula, Maui Experience the life of a goat farmer by taking the Evening Chores tour at Surfing Goat Dairy. You’ll learn to hand milk a goat and participate in evening feedings. Don’t skip out on the cheese flight—it’s a must! Surfing Goat Dairy, surfinggoatdairy.com

Take a Hike Honolulu, O‘ahu The Makapu‘u Lighthouse Trail is a moderate public trail that’s great for families to experience outdoor Hawai‘i. Travel along the paved trail to access fantastic views of the rugged southeastern coastline of O‘ahu. If you are traveling in the winter, be sure to bring your binoculars for offshore whale watching and viewing the neighboring islands of Moloka‘i and Lāna‘i. Makapu‘u Lighthouse Trail

Play in an Indoor Playground Honolulu and Kapolei, O‘ahu Sometimes you just need a place to let your kids run free! One of Hawai‘i’s newest luxury indoor playgrounds offers a myriad of options to keep kids busy and entertained every day of the week. From skills courses and ball pit areas to climbing walls and even a zip line, Kids City is a surefire way to put a smile on your keiki’s face. Kids City, kidscityhawaii.com W INTE R 2 0 24

All in the ‘Ohana

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Tour a Battleship Honolulu, O‘ahu Take an educational tour through Hawai‘i’s history with a visit to Pearl Harbor. Whether you prefer a guided tour or to walk through the attractions on your own, there is much to be gained from witnessing these historic sites firsthand. Schedule a visit to tour the USS Arizona Memorial, Battleship Missouri Memorial, Pacific Fleet Submarine Museum, USS Oklahoma Memorial or the Pearl Harbor Aviation Museum to honor this poignant event in our state’s history. Pearl Harbor, pearlharbor.org

Learn about Astronomy Hilo, Hawai‘i Island

Lahaina, Maui

Immerse your family in an authentic Hawaiian lū‘au for a transformative sensory experience at Old Lahaina Lū‘au. There’s something for everyone in your family to enjoy at this popular Maui event, including interactive cultural activities like ‘ulumaika (a traditional bowling game), coconut husking, poi making and hula instruction. With a feast of Hawai‘i food and traditional dance, it’s easy to be swept away by the wonder and magic of this incredible show that HAWAI‘I Magazine’s readers have voted as best lū‘au year after year! Old Lahaina Lū‘au reopens on Feb. 1. oldlahainaluau.com

Kid-Friendly Restaurants Keiki menus? Check. Affordable prices? Check. Enough options for the entire family? Oh, yeah!

Liliha Bakery

Zippy’s

Take your shopping experience to new heights at O‘ahu’s iconic Ala Moana Center, one of the world’s largest open-air shopping centers. With over 350 stores from local surf shops to luxury

Monkeypod Kitchen O‘ahu and Maui

An island staple, the Zippy’s franchise has swept the Islands with a wealth of locations across O‘ahu, Maui and Hawai‘i Island, as well as the grand opening of its Las Vegas restaurant. As synonymous for its local plate lunches as it are for its bakery goods, Zippy’s is a household name for a reason. Whether you're looking for classic plates like chicken katsu or a Zip Pac, needing a barrel of its famed chili or dobash cake for a family meal, you can never go wrong with Zippy’s. zippys.com

Foodies flock to the famed kitchens of chef Peter Merriman, who has led the movement in Hawai‘i Regional Cuisine. At Monkeypod Kitchens’ four Maui and O‘ahu locations, he makes his mark with island favorites using the finest local ingredients from Hawai‘i farmers, ranchers and purveyors throughout the state. Adults can imbibe on artisanal cocktails like its signature Monkeypod Mai Tai, alongside Maui cattle burgers, bulgogi pork tacos, hand-tossed pizzas and a plethora of fresh local fish and seafood dishes. And where else can you find elevated saimin made with Iwamoto family noodles on both the adult and keiki menus? A bowl of comfort the whole family will love! monkeypodkitchen.com

Ken’s House of Pancakes

Liliha Bakery may be known for its addictive Coco Puffs smothered in Chantilly cream and melt-in-your-mouth grilled butter rolls with its iconic red jelly, but its massive menu and bakery case has even more to offer. Open daily, this iconic bakery and coffee shop has become a Hawai‘i landmark after 73 years. Whether you're craving a traditional breakfast platter, simple salad or sandwich, or local comforts like beef stew or oxtail soup, you’re sure to find a favorite. And stop by the bakery counter on your way out to enjoy a box of pastries for the road. lilihabakery.com

Hilo, Hawai‘i Island

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Honolulu, O‘ahu

O‘ahu, Maui, Hawai‘i Island

Honolulu and Pearl City, O‘ahu

Shop at Hawai‘i’s Largest Mall

A Hawai‘i Island landmark since 1971, Ken’s House of Pancakes takes the literal (pan)cake when it comes to the likes of loco moco, omelettes, won ton min, oxtail stew, plate lunches and beloved breakfast carbs. Open seven days a week, you can super-size your order with an even more generous “sumo” portions of breakfast and lunch favorites to keep your energy up all day long as you explore Hilo town. kenshouseofpancakes.com

Leilani’s on the Beach Kā‘anapali, Maui Discover award-winning dining with a view at Leilani’s on the Beach. Enjoy island classics featuring locally sourced produce, long-line caught fresh fish and more over breathtaking views of Kā‘anapali Beach. A West Maui mainstay for over four decades, Leilani’s on the Beach offers customers a pictureque respite to sip a refreshing

photo: ryan siphers

Experience a Lū‘au

Discover the universe through indigenous knowledge at ‘Imiloa Astronomy Center in Hilo. In the Hawaiian language, ‘imiloa is the Hawaiian word for explore/explorer. Here, science and culture converge in the sky as you learn the traditions of Polynesian navigators. Explore astronomy and its connection to Hawaiian culture and practices at 'Imiloa’s expansive exhibition and planetarium complex. ‘Imiloa Astronomy Center, imiloahawaii.org

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brands to over 150 dining options spanning fast food to fine dining, entertainment spaces like Lucky Strike and The Escape Game, the opportunities for fun, food and shopping are truly endless. And don’t forget to head to Center Stage for its daily hula shows at 1 p.m.! alamoanacenter.com

K T Kthe AllTin ‘Ohana | HO‘OMAKA

Beaches For Families You can’t visit the Islands without hitting the beach. These beaches have what all parents are looking for: easy parking, clean restrooms and keiki-friendly conditions.

Go Whale Watching Mā‘alaea, Maui Truly a sight to behold, the whale embodies the wonder and magnificence of Hawai‘i’s marine life. Create unforgettable memories with your family as you witness the majesty of these huge ocean creatures gracefully gliding through the crystal-clear waters of the Pacific. PacWhale Eco-Adventures, pacwhale.com

Kā‘anapali Beach

Take a Surf Lesson Hanalei, Kaua‘i The art of he‘e nalu (surfing) is a Hawaiian tradition passed down through generations. Take a surf lesson from Hawai‘i’s famed Kinimaka family, whose family lineage consists of big-wave and professional surfers who were colleagues of the famed Native Hawaiian surfer and Olympian Duke Kahanamoku. Titus Kinimaka’s Hawaiian School of Surfing, tituskinimakahawaiianschoolofsurfing.com

Kaimana Beach beverage over a plate of coconut shrimp, ‘ahi steak and its must-have dessert: Kimo’s Original Hula Pie! leilanis.com

Mark’s Place Līhu‘e, Kaua‘i Mark’s Place has been serving up ‘ono grab-and-go plate lunches, and hot sandwiches for 25 years. And not only can you order Mark’s Famous Mixed Plate with chicken katsu, teriyaki beef and beef stew, but you can take home beloved omiyage (souvenirs), too! Get your fix of sweet and salty treats such as butter mochi, prune mui, cookies, and its house-smoked ‘ahi and kamaboko (fish cake) dips. marksplacekauai.com

Moke’s Bread and Breakfast

photo: aaron k. yoshino

Honolulu and Kailua, O‘ahu For island-style breakfast comfort food done right, Moke’s Bread and Breakfast is sure to hit the spot. Find breakfast favorites such as its liliko‘i (passion fruit) pancakes, housemade corned beef hash, and Mickey Mouse pancakes for the keiki. And don’t forget to ask about its secret menu specials like its epic stuffed hash browns and French toast Monte Cristo! mokeshawaii.com

Hanalei Bay

Honolulu, O‘ahu

Hanalei, Kaua‘i

• Calm and easy ocean conditions yearround make this a favorite for children to play in the shore break.

• One of the top surfing spots on the island.

• Access to bathrooms, showers and picnic tables.

• Perfect for all ocean recreational activities, including bodyboarding, snorkeling and kayaking.

• Easy parking on the street if you arrive early.

• Access to grills, picnic tables, restrooms and showers.

Punalu‘u Black Sand Beach

• Three designated parking areas as well as street parking are available.

Ka‘ū, Hawai‘i Island • Breathtakingly scenic with black sand beaches and Hawaiian wildlife. (Don’t forget to keep your distance!) • Plenty of tidepools for fun shore exploration. • Easy entry into the bay for snorkeling. • Access to restrooms, showers and pavilions.

Kā‘anapali Beach Kā‘anapali, Maui • Ideal beach for snorkeling with crystal-clear water. • Visiting during the winter? Head there for whale-watching right from the shore. • Plenty of nearby restaurants and hotels.

Po‘ipū Beach Po‘ipū, Kaua‘i • Lifeguard on duty seven days a week. • Access to bathrooms, showers and picnic tables. • Barbecue grills, walking paths and a playground are available.

Hanauma Bay Honolulu, O‘ahu • ADA accessible. • Lockers are available for personal items. • Food available at the concession. • Snorkel concession and gift shop onsite. • Open to the public Wednesdays to Sundays; reservations required. W INTE R 2 0 24

All in the ‘Ohana

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Where To Stay There’s no shortage of places to stay in Hawai‘i, from big resorts to charming bed-and-breakfast options. But there are some that focus on families, with enough kid-friendly activities, pools and ammenities that will keep even the most active kid occupied.

Imperial Resort Honolulu, O‘ahu

Whether you’re a first-time visitor or returning guest, you’ll be greeted with aloha as you walk through its doors. The Imperial Hawaii Resort is a hotel and timeshare property located in the heart of Waikīkī. Enjoy family friendly activities like lei making, ‘ukulele lessons and live music. Take advantage of its amazing location near shopping, entertainment and the beach. Stay as a hotel guest or ask about discounted rates in the Imperial Hawai‘i Vacation Club! imperialofwaikiki.com

Wailea Beach Resort Enjoy six pools across four distinct settings including the all-new Olakino adults-only wellness pool experience and all-ages Nalu Adventure Pool with Hawai‘i’s longest resort waterslide at 325 meters long. Spacious residential-style accommodations include twobedroom suites and connecting rooms. The newly launched Sundeck Garden Oasis guestrooms offer an expansive private lānai with an outdoor bathtub, shower and firepit lounge area. The resort’s unrivaled location is steps from golden sand beaches, championship-level golf courses and tennis courts, and upscale luxury retail Shops at Wailea. marriott.com/en-us/hotels/hnmmc-wailea-beach-resortmarriott-maui

Mana Kai Maui Kīhei, Maui

Imagine strolling the soft sands of an endless beach, tropical breezes, azure ocean, just steps from your door. The Mana Kai Maui uniquely offers spectacular ocean view condos along with many amenities of a resort—oceanfront pool, fitness center, business center—AND all the perks of condo vacationing. Hotel type rooms are also available. Guests booking directly receive added free value: maid service, pool towel service, no check-out cleaning fees, no resort fees and more. bookings.manakaimaui.com/en/reservation/hoteldetails

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Kōloa Landing Resort Kōloa, Kaua‘i Book your next Kaua‘i getaway at the luxurious Kōloa Landing Resort at Po‘ipū. Located on the south shore of the island, this lush, tropical paradise offers luxury villas and suites complete with gourmet chef’s kitchens and expansive living and lānai spaces. The resort’s poolside Holoholo Grill showcases a partnership with legendary local chef Sam Choy, and additional amenities from a 24-hour fitness center and relaxing day spa to delightful resort pools and complimentary weekly activities including outdoor yoga, lei making and roasting s’mores by the fire pit—an ideal evening dessert the kids will love. koloalandingresort.com

photos: courtesy imperial hawai‘i resort, mana kai maui, walea beach resort

Wailea, Maui

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Hilton Waikoloa Village Waikoloa, Hawai‘i Island Dreams become reality at the iconic Hilton Waikoloa Village on Hawai‘i Island’s majestic Kohala Coast. Here, guests can snorkel in the resort’s beautiful saltwater lagoon, soar above the trees on the Kohala Zipline, or swim with playful dolphins. Soak in the sun at the resort’s oceanfront pools by day before enjoying a traditional island buffet while watching fire dancers at night. Personalize your stay with a myriad of island activities and cultural classes to make unforgettable memories together as a family. hilton.com/en/hotels/koahwhhhilton-waikoloa-village

Timbers Resorts Līhu‘e, Kaua‘i

photos: courtesy waimea plantation villages, romer waikīkī at the ambassador, imperrial resort

An idyllic home away from the hum of the outside world, the three distinct residences at Timbers Kaua‘i are designed to capture the spirit of island architecture and honor the beauty of the surrounding ocean, golf course, lagoons and bay. It’s a place you’ll want to return to time and time again. With all the amenities of a resort, such as restaurants, spa, fitness center, golf and tennis, daily housekeeping, and more, you can have the best of all worlds. timberskauai.com

Waimea Plantation Cottages Waimea, Kaua‘i

HAWAI‘I Magazine’s 2023 Readers’ Choice Award Winner for Best Value Resort and Best Resort for Families! Immerse yourself in serenity on 43 oceanfront acres at Waimea Plantation Cottages. Historic plantation homes range from one to five bedrooms, each with a full kitchen and private lānai so you’re assured plenty of space for a fun family vacation. Swim in the oceanfront pool, grill local steaks and veggies on the barbecues or grab a bite at the on-property restaurant. Expansive green lawns offer shuffleboard, volleyball courts and countless other outdoor activities. www.coasthotels.com/waimea-plantation-cottages

Aulani, a Disney Resort & Spa Ko ‘Olina, O‘ahu There is no experience quite like that at Aulani, where the magic of Disney meets the mana of Hawaiian culture. Immerse your family in the beauty of West O‘ahu with a luxurious tropical resort experience, complete with unforgettable Disney moments and momentos. Creative and cultural activities are designed with family in mind, whether your little ones are eager for Disney character experiences, a Menehune Adventure Trail scavenger hunt, Ka Wa‘a Lū‘au, Mo‘olelo Fire Pit Storytelling, Hawaiian star-gazing or Waikolohe Stream tubing adventures. More traditional amenities include the superb resort pools and grotto, luxurious resort spa, beach activities and access to Ko ‘Olina’s majestic beach lagoon. disneyaulani.com

Romer Waikīkī at The Ambassador Honolulu, O‘ahu

An antidote to ordinary O‘ahu itineraries, Romer Waikīkī at The Ambassador is a neighborhood hotel made for more than beach days. Centered around Waikīkī’s creative culture, Romer’s easygoing guest rooms feature private lānai, plenty of lounge space, and locally sourced and roasted Hawai‘i Island coffee. Find the best shave ice on the island, hit a block party in Chinatown, and head back for live music and a dive-in movie at the Waikīkī Swim & Social Club. romerwaikiki.com

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KAU KAU

Timesʼ Timeless Appeal

On O‘ahu’s Windward side, generations have grown up on Times’ fried rice, hamburger steak and banana pancakes. BY ROBBIE DINGEMAN

HA WA I ‘ I M A G A Z I N E

LIPPING INTO THE BROWN VINYL BOOTHS at Kailua’s

Times Coffee Shop feels reassuringly familiar. I’m already anticipating the sturdy white mug of coffee sliding across the just-wiped wood-grain laminate. Most likely, I’ll order eggs over easy with housemade corned beef hash patty. If my kids are with me, somebody’s getting the platesized buttermilk pancakes with bananas or blueberries. Servers in running shoes crisscross a bright orange tile floor cracked and worn by years of traffic. They swoop in shortly after you write your name on the clipboard by the door, sorting out who arrived first, getting everyone settled and taking your orders. Usually I’ll run into a buddy from

the gym or a high school classmate of mine or my kids. In a neighborhood with the standard assortment of corporate chains, this local diner stands out like a hometown hug. On any day, you’ll find in its booths families, friends, couples and solo diners. Our family finds our way to Times with relatives from off island, after doctor visits or simply when we’ve been rushing too much. There’s something about being able to order exactly the same thing for years. A cousin insists it’s the most local breakfast place in Kailua, focused on food, not frills, down to the old-fashioned toast with those little individual containers of jelly and jam. Most of the ample plates range around $10 to $15. Some of the most popular include the meaty fried rice with a signature

photos: aaron k. yoshino

Times Coffee Shop has garnered quite the following with its localstyle menu items and homey charm.

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sweetness from a teri sauce, although I prefer the more savory off-menu shoyu version. There’s even a veggie version with kale, carrots, mushrooms and tomatoes instead of Spam, ham and sausage bits. Also popular: a hamburger patty made from scratch and served in the loco moco, a plate lunch and a burger— all of which can be made vegetarian with a plantbased patty. The first Times Coffee Shop in Kailua opened a couple blocks away on Oneawa Street in 1959. Manager Tricia Low-Ham explains that the Shimabukuro family sold the restaurant to her parents, Samson and Veronica Low, in the early 80’s. At the old location, the Lows doubled down on the popular dishes, especially the fried rice—“That’s always served as the foundation for the menu,” she says—and focused on service, quality and affordable prices. The family tweaked recipes to make them their own, even after moving to the current spot. Low-Ham started working in the business as a teen, earned a degree in travel industry management at University of Hawai‘i at Mānoa and gradually took over. She’s been there 32 years and loves it when students or former residents return after years away and say, “Kailua’s changed so much, but you’re still here!” While Low-Ham’s father died in 2003, her mother is still there, and five years ago, Samson’s grandson and namesake—who goes by Sam—joined the busi-

ness full-time. Low-Ham credits her nephew for his hard work, cooking and contemporary touches. He runs the social media, added a QR code for the menu and comes up with marketing ideas such as an eggs Benedict special for Mother’s Day. The other Times Coffee Shop in nearby Kāne‘ohe is part of the same family. Low-Ham’s sister, Sharon DiPrete, runs the Ko‘olau Center location in Temple Valley. It moved there from Kāne‘ohe Bay Shopping Center in 2008 with a similar menu, but its own touches and customers. Dutch Steele is one of the Kailua regulars who stops in for breakfast or brunch at least five days a week. He’ll ride there on his motorcycle, then grab an Irish coffee next door at Creekside Lounge afterward. Steele sums up the unbeatable appeal of his favorite diner. “If I can’t remember what I want to eat, they remind me,” he says. “It’s the best local food around.” Open weekdays from 8 a.m. to 1 p.m., weekends from 6:30 a.m. to 1 p.m., 153 Hāmākua Dr., (808) 262-0300, timescoffeeshopkailua.com, @timescoffeeshopkailua Veronica Low with her daughter, Tricia Low-Ham

This story was originally released by our sister publication Frolic Hawai‘i. See more at frolichawaii.com or on Instagram @frolichawaii.

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ONE LAST LOOK

One Last Look PHOTO BY TOR JOHNSON

IGHTING UP THE NIGHT SKY over O‘ahu’s southern

photo: hawai‘i tourism authority (hta) / tor johnson

shoreline, the weekly fireworks show at the Hilton Hawaiian Village Waikīkī Beach Resort has been a longrunning tradition, starting in 1988. While the views are killer from the sands of Waikīkī Beach—you can watch the show from other south shore beaches, like Ala Moana Beach Park, without the crowd and still get a wonderful show.

HA WA I ‘ I M A G A Z I N E

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LIKE A LOCAL

Ho, Howzit

Filling the lexicons of Hawai‘i locals for decades, Hawaiian Pidgin is a huge part of the Island's local culture.

ROM CULTURES TO CUISINE,

Hawai‘i has a way of mixing everything that comes to the islands into its own unique thing. And, brah, Hawaiian Pidgin be l’dat (like that,) too. Hawaiian Pidgin, known in ‘ōlelo Hawai‘i (Hawaiian language) as ‘ōlelo pa‘i ‘ai, or “hard taro language,” wasn’t actually introduced to the Islands—it was made here out of necessity. On Hawai‘i’s sugarcane plantations in the 1830s, there were so many different people, speaking so many different languages—Hawaiian, Chinese, Japanese, Portuguese, English— there needed to be a way for everyone to communicate with each other. That way was Pidgin, a wonderful cacophony of words and

HA WA I ‘ I M A G A Z I N E

slang from different cultures and languages all mixed together. For instance, Pidgin includes Hawaiian words like pau (finished with something) as well as Japanese words like shishi (urine, or to urinate). And it’s been lovingly embraced by the local people here, with much of the language— Hawaiian Pidgin was first recognized as a language by the U.S. Census Bureau in 2015— being integrated into everyday conversations. There’s even a dictionary written for Hawaiian Pidgin, “Pidgin to Da Max” by Douglas Simonson. (Book shown above.) So if you’re in Hawai‘i and you happen to overhear someone say he got drilled at Sandy’s cuz he wen charge ’um like he did in his hanabata days, you heard him right. It’s Pidgin.

photo: aaron k. yoshino

BY KEVIN ALLEN

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