A Magazine, Issue 94 by Aïshti

People/Style/Culture/Art

FORWARD

The Future of Fashion. Sawaya & Moroni Get Personal. Playing at AÃ¯shti by the Sea. Malta the Magnificent

no.94 May/June/July '18 LL10,000

D I O R . C O M - 0 1 9 9 1 1 1 1 E X T. 5 9 2

W W W.C E L I N E .C O M

FAKHRY BEY STREET BEIRUT SOUKS DOWNTOWN P 01 991 111 EXT 570 AÏSHTI BY THE SEA ANTELIAS P 04 717 716 EXT 208

DREW in airy grey quilted calfskin

—

FAKHRY BEY STREET, Beirut Souks AÏSHTI BY THE SEA, Antelias

Chloe.com

AÏSHTI BY THE SEA, LEVEL 2, SEASIDE ROAD, ANTELIAS AÏSHTI DOWNTOWN BEIRUT (FRANCHISEE MAX MARA)

aishti by the sea, antelias t. 04 717 716 ext. 247

J AV I E R B A R D E M a n d D E V PAT E L , M A L I B U H I L L S , 8 a m WAT C H T H E S E R I E S O N Z E G N A . C O M

B E I R U T 6 2 A b d e l M a l e k S t r e e t Te l . 0 1 9 9 1 1 1 1 E x t . 2 2 2

A N T E L I A S A Ã¯ s h t i b y t h e S e a Te l . 0 4 7 1 7 7 1 6 e x t . 2 1 8

J AV I E R B A R D E M a n d D E V PAT E L , M A L I B U H I L L S , 5 p m WAT C H T H E S E R I E S O N Z E G N A . C O M

B E I R U T 6 2 A b d e l M a l e k S t r e e t Te l . 0 1 9 9 1 1 1 1 E x t . 2 2 2

A N T E L I A S A Ã¯ s h t i b y t h e S e a Te l . 0 4 7 1 7 7 1 6 e x t . 2 1 8

94 No.

May/June/July 2018

Inside

The Forward Issue

FRONT / 48 Who’s Who / 50 Editor’s Letter The inspiration behind this issue / 52

Contributors A brief selection / 58 Movers and Shakers Honoring creatives pushing

boundaries / 76 Frolicking by the Sea Aïshti by the Sea’s six hot spots / 80 In Focus

Where we’ll be this summer / 100 Objects of Desire The bags and shoes we’re after /

108 Fashion and the Revolution On the fashion industry’s future / 114 Color Codes

Abby Haliti talks hair color trends / 116 Great Expectations Art on a remote island in

Japan / 122 Sway Me More Today’s influencer economy / 124 Iconic Women What’s

in our closets / 132 Domestic Bliss The season’s trendiest pieces / FASHION / 140

Sizzling Swim Shot by Bachar Srour at Aïshti by the Sea / 146 Brooklyn Baby Jasmine shot by Petrovsky & Ramone and styled by Sonny Groo / FEATURES / 188 Center of

the Ring Visiting Vienna’s 25hours hotel / 192 In the Studio with MakerBrane / 198

Subject In conversation with Anastasia Elrouss / 200 Monuments to Change Four new buildings transforming the landscape / 206 Fabulously Vintage La DoubleJ’s perfect

prints / 210 Beauty and the Beat Getting the rundown from spa experts / 212 Modern

May/June/July 2018

Rebels Sawaya & Moroni’s contemporary designs / 222 They’ve Got Sole Nora Aytch’s luxury footwear hits London / 224 All Together Now On sharing workspaces / 226 If

Words Could Thrill Sarah Bahbah’s audacious work / PLAYGROUND / 238 On Food

Exploring Miami’s culinary scene / 242 Where We’re Eating / 246 On Happiness From cryotherapy to well-being / 248 Where We’re Detoxing / 252 On Drink Uncovering the drink of the future / 254 Where We’re Drinking / 256 Once Around Malta Exploring

magical Mediterranean islands / 260 Where We’re Staying / THE END / 264 The Last

Page Virtual model

People/Style/Culture/Art

FORWARD

The Future of Fashion. Sawaya & Moroni Get Personal. Playing at Aïshti by the Sea. Malta the Magnificent

no.94 May/June/July '18 LL10,000

On the Cover It’s time to step into unknown territories, to leave our comfort zones and explore the possibilities. This issue is about embracing change, conquering fears and being dauntless. Our cover girl is Jasmine Dwyer wearing a Bottega Veneta top, Stella McCartney pants and Gianvito Rossi heels. Shot in Brooklyn, New York, by Petrovsky & Ramone / Styling by Sonny Groo

People/Style/Culture/Art Publisher Tony Salamé Group TSG SAL

Editor-in-chief Marwan Naaman

Creative director Mélanie Dagher

Senior art and production director Maria Maalouf Associate editor Rayane Abou Jaoude Coordinating editor Sophie Nahas Junior digital editor Nour Saliba

In-house fashion photographer Raya Farhat 48

Senior photo editor Fadi Maalouf Contributing writers Nicole Anderson

Renata Fontanelli Tala Habbal

Karim Hussain

Michael Karam Niku Kasmai

Sabina Llewellyn-Davies Ramsay Short

Joséphine Voyeux J. Michael Welton Folio artist

Sarah Bahbah

Fashion photographers Petrovsky & Ramone Aly Saab

Bachar Srour

Feature photographers Tony Elieh

Marco Pinarelli Stylist

Sonny Groo Illustrator

Maria Khairallah Intern

Clara Melki

Advertising director Melhem Moussallem Advertising manager Stephanie Missirian

Chief marketing director Karine Abou Arraj Printing Dots: The Art of Printing

Responsible director Nasser Bitar

Aïshti by the Sea, Beirut, Lebanon tel. 961.4.717.716, a@aishti.com, aishtiblog.com

givenchy.com

Documented by Steven Meisel

Destinyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Child What does tomorrow hold for us? The Forward issue of A Mag gazes into a crystal ball to determine what we can look forward to in the coming years. Whether itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s virtual models, supernatural-looking buildings, tech-infused clothing, futuristic hotels or progressive individuals from Lebanon and beyond, we uncover what the rest of the 21st century has in store, while celebrating our contemporary best. Hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s to a wild, adventurous ride into the not-so-distant future. Marwan Naaman @marwannaaman

Contributors

Nicole Anderson Nicole Anderson is a New York City-based writer and editor, focusing on architecture, design, urbanism, and the arts. She is currently the executive editor at Modern Magazine and senior editor at The Magazine Antiques. She received her BA in American Civilization at Brown University, and a Master’s from Columbia University Graduate School of Journalism, where she focused on long-form and literary journalism. When she is not writing, she is making jewelry or spending time with her energy-filled aussie shepherd pup, Briscoe. Check out her article about the Benesse Art Site Naoshima in Japan on page 116.

Sonny Groo New York-based fashion stylist Sonny Groo works for various media and publications. His work includes styling portraits for Vogue US and creating looks for international stars and celebrities such as dancer Michaela DePrince and model Romee Strijd. He’s also the founder and editor-in-chief of Mykromag, a global and independent fashion, art and music publication. For this edition of A Mag, Groo styled the cover story. See his work on page 146.

Maria Khairallah Maria Khairallah is the Digital Art Director at Aïshti. Born and raised in Lebanon, she received her BA in Art Direction from the Lebanese Academy of Fine Arts (ALBA). Passionate about music, photography, traveling and the outdoors, she finds her work at Aïshti exciting because “every day is different.” She especially enjoys working on collages and visuals as a means of self-expression and abandoning all guidelines. View her work for A Mag on page 224.

Aly Saab Beirut-based fashion photographer Aly Saab moved back to Lebanon after graduating from the Glasgow School of Art in Scotland. His work has appeared in numerous local and European publications, including Cold Cuts and Yearbook. Aly has also produced an experimental short film, “God at the Door,” and a music video with pianist and composer Vladimir Kurumilian. His work takes on its own identity and is mostly about being “stripped down.” He’s currently working on a series of portraits for an exhibition, “Blank,” set for 2019, as well as a collaboration with fashion designer and stylist Joe Arida. See his work for A Mag on pages 100, 210 and 222.

Casa d’Aste Il Ponte, Milano #EtroRoots

Aïshti by The Sea, Aïshti Downtown, Aïshti Verdun

ETRO.COM

MOVERS AND SHAKERS Words Rayane Abou Jaoude

Photography Marco Pinarelli

It’s about looking ahead and seeing the possibilities, overcoming the hurdles and taking things to the next level. It’s revolutionary advancements in technology, virtual reality, art, architecture and aerospace design, and we’re more than ready for it. A Mag speaks to some of Lebanon’s greatest innovators and forwardthinkers, to shed light on their creations and how they’re making a difference.

KARIM NADER

ARCHITECT, TEACHER AND YOGI Architect Karim Nader dreams big. He founded Karim Nader Studio in 2016, and his work, from Villa Kali in Mounsef and Tahan Villa in Jounieh to the reinvention of an abandoned sugar-refining factory in Zalka and Amaret Chalhoub, shows the designer to be a passionate, engaged and responsible individual. His next project, Immeuble de l’Union, is the much-awaited renovation of the 1952 building by Lucien Cavro and Antoun Tabet near Sanayeh in Beirut. Where does he hope to be in 10 years? “Doing a few meaningful projects. Meaning happens when your work touches the lives of others.”

What keeps you motivated? Passion, possibility, creativity within our contemporary chaos Something you’re looking forward to in the future A more harmonious and peaceful global living, like everyone I guess The most challenging thing about your job Having to constantly explain in words the unnamable experience of architecture What’s the funniest thing that has happened to you recently? Not a single thing, but quite often I burst out laughing at my clients’ mood swings The best place to eat in Beirut At home with a few friends

LEBNAN AND ARZ NADER

CO-FOUNDERS OF GAME COOKS

Brothers Lebnan and Arz Nader are co-founders of Game Cooks, a mobile game application that covers puzzles, action and arcade games, and which has recently entered the world of virtual reality and experiences. Lebnan has been working with mobile applications, games and systems development for the last 10 years, and has extensive experience in lottery and betting solutions and mobile technology. Arz has worked in the digital entertainment industry, and now builds the studio’s portfolio of mobile games. Where do they unwind after work? They love quaint Spanish bistro Ortega in Badaro.

What keeps you motivated? LN: Creating a game that makes people happy AN: I am a hardcore gamer by nature, meaning that the passion for gaming itself is a huge part of my daily motivation Something you’re looking forward to in the future LN: Scaling up Game Cooks internationally AN: Creating a game title that would bring the gaming community together The most challenging thing about your job LN: Nothing is hard about my job. I am surrounded by the best team there is. I am super relaxed! AN: The most challenging part is the ideation process itself, since we need to innovate and appeal in times where everything that might occur to you is already made What’s the funniest thing that has happened to you recently? LN: I was invited to dinner at a seafood place, but I don’t eat seafood. I ate a whole lot of bread and was hiding the seafood dishes under the table AN: I met someone that I’d heard about from a coworker without knowing his name or how he looks like in a random street in San Francisco, and he eventually joined our Game Cooks development team in Lebanon Fast-forward 10 years. Where do you hope to be? LN: Wherever life takes me AN: I would love to see Game Cooks being recognized as one of the biggest Triple A Studios in the world

DOREEN TOUTIKIAN

DESIGNER, RESEARCHER AND SOCIAL ENTREPRENEUR Doreen Toutikian, founding director of Beirut Design Week, has a lot on her plate: she’s also the co-founder and president of the board of MENA Design Research Center and the co-founder of LOOP. Her book, Design Education in the Middle East, was awarded the Cologne Design Prize in 2010. Currently based between Beirut and Athens, Toutikian has been an educator, mentor, advisor to global networks and member of the Young Cultural Innovators of the British Council, among other things. What keeps her going? “My love for life and adventure, for discovery of new things, for learning, developing new curiosities and accomplishing more goals for as long as I am alive.”

Something you’re looking forward to in the future Becoming a good drummer and playing live for an audience The most challenging thing about your job Understanding and managing the expectations of people, building trust and encouraging people to think of the greater good of the community rather than the self What’s the funniest thing that has happened to you recently? I was in my flat in Athens making sushi, and my boyfriend and I had invited friends over. One of his friends asks me about the ingredients, and I explain the different fish you can use and vegetables. He says, “This is awesome, next time I will bring Nectarilia with me,” and I go, “Oh yeah sure, we can add anything to the rolls! Is it a fruit?” He says, “No, it’s my girlfriend.” The best place to eat in Beirut Makhlouf in Dora or Barbar Hamra for shawarma, Enab in Mar Mikhael for fattet batenjen, Tsunami in Ashrafieh for sushi and Badguer in Bourj Hammoud for mante Fast-forward 10 years. Where do you hope to be? On a Greek island, on a beach, under a tree, in a hammock, with a bottle of Sailor Jerry, lime and an ice bucket

LAURENT SAAD AND KARIM CHAMS EDDINE

IMAGE MAKER AND MANAGING PRODUCER AT BIGBANG STUDIOS Laurent Saad and Karim Chams Eddine are some of the minds behind Bigbang Studios, Lebanon’s first production house and cinema dedicated to creating virtual reality (VR) content for and from the Middle East and North Africa. Saad is (among other things) the chief creative officer at Cinemoz, a platform dedicated to the production and distribution of digital content, and Chams Eddine, who spends most of his time inside a VR headset, is a video editor and music composer. Where’s their favorite place to eat in the city? “Marinella. Best homey Italian food in Lebanon,” says Saad. For Chams Eddine, it’s his girlfriend’s kitchen, “hands down.”

What keeps you motivated? LS: My constant drive to do better KC: I find “motivation” to be quite elusive, but what keeps me going is that I wholeheartedly enjoy all the things I do in life Something you’re looking forward to in the future LS: Teleportation KC: A more streamlined availability of all the headsets and content. I am ultimately looking for VR/AR to reach the tipping point and truly become the norm The most challenging thing about your job LS: Finding ways to always stay relevant and creative without repeating myself – coming up with new ideas all the time KC: VR has little to no standard yet. Sometimes you envision that a concept will be awesome, then you try it inside VR, and it is terrible. It’s a hectic trial-and-error process What’s the funniest thing that has happened to you recently? LS: Nothing funny ever happens to me – I am too serious KC: The daily interactions with my niece Riri and my cat Louise. It’s a show that never repeats itself Fast-forward 10 years. Where do you hope to be? LS: Somewhere, continuing this strange, unpredictable adventure KC: Celebrating the 10-year anniversary of you asking me this question

AMAR A. ZAHR AND NATHALIE ACKAWI

FOUNDER AND PARTNER OF BEIRUT ART RESIDENCY AND COFOUNDERS OF CUB GALLERY Superwomen Amar A. Zahr and Nathalie Ackawi head Beirut Art Residency, an independent artist-run residency hosting both regional and international artists to develop and exhibit their work. They also run CUB Gallery, a unique exhibition space dedicated to promoting young students and fresh graduates in the arts. Having majored and worked in the arts, both women are passionate about Beirut’s cultural scene and hope to see the city turn into a hub for artistic exchange, residencies and art.

What keeps you motivated? AZ: Setting unrealistic goals (that often feel insane!) and getting as close to them as possible NA: A challenge The most challenging thing about your job AZ: Needing to explain the role of art residencies in promoting cultural diplomacy, particularly to people from different industries NA: Fundraising What’s the funniest thing that has happened to you recently? AZ: Someone called me to book a table at the Beirut Art Residency. I’m still not sure what they thought we serve NA: I met an albino kangaroo The best place to eat in Beirut AZ: Varouj, a little Armenian eatery in Bourj Hammoud. Great food but skip the kisses afterward! NA: Varouj in Bourj Hammoud Fast-forward 10 years. Where do you hope to be? AZ: Hopefully in a position to make bigger cultural contributions to Lebanon NA: I’d be lacking imagination if I knew

FOUAD FATTAL

CO-FOUNDER AND CEO AT KRIMSTON

Passionate about innovation and building technology with a tangible value, Fouad Fattal kicked off his career as project manager of a workflow solution dedicated to advertising agencies. He then established his first firm, Distimania, which specializes in the distribution of innovative IT accessories. Looking to expand further, he co-founded Krimston, a hardware company about to mass produce its very first product, TWO, the first dual SIM case for iPhones. Fattal is looking forward to making a difference in the world. “Life is too short, the only way to extend it is by leaving a mark,” he says.

What keeps you motivated? Ambition is the main driver behind my motivation. I always wanted to make it big! I would add challenge given the complexity of what we’re doing and my passion toward tech The most challenging thing about your job Finding the right talents and advisors. Hardware research and development is not very common in our part of the world. The learning curve we had to go through in a very young ecosystem was extremely challenging, and still is What’s the funniest thing that has happened to you recently? Attending a 60-minute meeting with the C level executives of one of the biggest telecom operators in the region while having a Hello Kitty sticker on my blazer carefully placed by my four-year old daughter The best place to eat in Beirut Not only because I am the proud son of its founder, but also because I love the food – definitely Boubouffe Fast-forward 10 years. Where do you hope to be? Besides embracing life and living it to its utmost extreme, running a successful fund that will give young talents and brilliant minds the proper chance to make an impact

RAFFI TCHAKERIAN AEROSPACE DESIGNER

In 2008 Raffi Tchakerian started collaborating with Architecture and Vision (AV), a cutting-edge practice involved in art, space architecture, product and transportation design based in Italy. He’s been teaching various university subjects since 2015, ranging from kinetic structures to aerospace architecture. He’s also been involved in the creation of aerospace architecture courses at the American University of Beirut in the hope of creating aerospace-related research a department reality in the future. The most challenging thing about his job is pretty much everything, he says. “Designing for harsh environments, whether it’s on earth or in space, is tricky, but extremely exciting.”

What keeps you motivated? Technology. “Playing” in the creative field, it’s difficult to lose interest and motivation as there is so much you can do. It’s our mission as designers to use these solutions and find new ways to improve our daily lives whether here on earth or in space Something you’re looking forward to in the future The moment we obtain cheap and sustainable space access, the opportunities that we will have and the industries that will be created will literally be something out of this world What’s the funniest thing that has happened to you recently? I was on a mission deep inside the Sahara Desert in the Siwa Oasis in Egypt with a group of students. In this oasis people used to build their homes with salt blocks. The place where we were staying was also built with the same technique. In the middle of the night I kept waking up because I felt salt all over the bed and had to clean it every time. One night I stayed up long enough to notice the students jumping around over my room, leading the salt particles to rain all over me. Definitely minus five for that! The best place to eat in Beirut Gavi Fast-forward 10 years. Where do you hope to be? In orbit around earth, inside a space resort gazing upon the planet and enjoying a cold space beer while floating in microgravity

Canali.com

2 2 5 F o c h S t . , D o w n t o w n B e i r u t , Te l . + 9 6 1 1 9 9 1 1 1 1 E x t . 4 8 0 A Ã¯ s h t i B y t h e S e a , A n t e l i a s , Te l . + 9 6 1 4 4 1 7 7 1 6 E x t . 2 3 4

Words Marwan Naaman Photography Tony Elieh

FROLICKING BY THE SEA A day at Aïshti by Sea is full of sensory experiences, from the luxury shops and worldclass art, to the bespoke spa and unique collection of specialty restaurants It’s the most exciting destination in the country for food lovers. Aïshti by the Sea in Antelias now offers six different culinary experiences, ensuring a pleasurable escapade for gourmets and gourmands alike. Visitors can enjoy a quick cappuccino break in between shopping bouts, lunch along the waterfront after checking out the latest electronic offerings at Aïshti Home Solutions or enjoy live music shows on the rooftop following a spin through the Aïshti Foundation’s “Trick Brain” art exhibit. A good time for all, in Lebanon’s most architecturally splendid landmark.

SIP A shot of coffee hits the spot any time of day. And when you’re at Aïshti by the Sea, you can drop by newly opened Sip specialty coffee for your caffeine fix. (You may already be familiar with Sip and their original location in Gemmayze.) Set on the ground floor, which is the same level on which bags, cosmetics and jewelry are located, Sip offers the usual favorites – espresso, cappuccino, latte – made with regular milk, coconut milk or almond milk, and with grade-A beans sourced from such places as Mexico, Kenya, India and Nicaragua. For a coffee alternative, try the matcha latte – it’s just the right balance of creamy and savory. You can also snack on Sip’s moist banana bread (with or without chocolate chips) or pistachio chocolate chip cookies. A pick-me-up in between shopping expeditions. Tel. 04.717.716, ext. 273

ART PEOPLE Nothing beats dining on ART People’s waterfront terrace. With the cool Mediterranean breeze blowing, the sound of waves gently crashing nearby and architect David Adjaye’s red latticework standing guard in the background, ART People certainly offers one of Lebanon’s dreamiest restaurant settings. In terms of cuisine, many of the menu’s offerings are now local classics, and they include the tomato and mozzarella tart with one of the finest crusts you’ll ever sample, the fresh crab salad and its complex ocean flavors, the lobster linguini and its addictive crushed tomatoes and the tender, tasty, tremendous grilled Black Angus striploin. On the sweeter side, ART People’s banana tart is easily a national institution. And every Sunday, the open-air BBQ by the Sea is a lunchtime celebration. Tel. 04.725.725

MATTO The primary Italian restaurant north of the capital, Matto serves pizzas and pastas both in a sprawling indoor space and on the seaside terrace. Signature dishes range from panzanella (Italian salad with tomatoes, cheese, olives and more) to cotoletta alla Milanese (breaded veal chops), with unusual desserts like the Matto Rock, which is essentially a big Ferrero Rocher that comes with a hammer – to be broken down by guests prior to eating. The Italian theme pervades the entire experience, with many employees actually hailing from Italy. With the warm-weather season now upon us, Matto is also hosting an outdoor DJ for a dazzling musical experience under the sky and a special apéritif on select evenings. Tel. 71.444.335 ZURUNI It’s the latest restaurant to open at Aïshti by the Sea. Specializing in Lebanese cuisine – both traditional and with an updated twist – Zuruni seats 150 diners indoors, under a skylight and with a burst of greenery, and 180 on its open-air waterfront terrace. Some of the new flavors you can sample here? Goat labneh with fig preserves, meat baklava with pomegranate molasses (debs el remmen) and knefeh fondue. As for unusual cocktails, try the Byblos mule, a very Levantine take on the standard Moscow mule. Tel. 70.771.133

MEAT THE FISH When it first opened in Beirut’s Saifi Village, Meat the Fish revolutionized the way Lebanese people enjoyed their meals. Suddenly, the trendiest thing to do was choose your fish or cut of beef, grab it and then head outside to eat on crates strategically placed up and down the sidewalk. At Aïshti by the Sea, Meat the Fish offers both indoor and outdoor dining, still giving guests the option to choose their own fish or meat. Some menu options here include wild fish, shellfish, smoked fish, meat cuts from Australia and the United States, truffle chips and beetroot sashimi. For spring, Meat the Fish is offering special bar bites served at its newly launched outdoor bar. Available at night Thursday through Saturday, during sunset cocktails, and for lunch on both Saturday and Sunday, the menu includes addictive nibbles like popcorn furikake, blistered edamame, crispy rice salmon and zucchini chips with yogurt dip. All the more reason to meet the friends at Meat the Fish. Tel. 04.725.781

It’s the most exciting destination in the country for food lovers B BY ELEFTERIADES So you’ve shopped, you’ve lunched, you’ve viewed art, you’ve had your spa treatment and you’ve knocked back a cup of Joe. What next? Head to Aïshti by the Sea’s rooftop and enter the realm of Lebanon’s self-proclaimed Emperor of Nowheristan, Michel Elefteriades. His dazzling open-air musical hotspot, B by Elefteriades, hosts a diverse lineup of performers and DJs, while mixing exquisite cocktails and serving superlative cuisine. During dinner, you’ll hear live music performed by international artists from such varied places as France, Cuba and America. After midnight, everything changes, and B turns into a lounge with deep house, electronic and dance tunes spun by some of the world’s best-known DJs. Dancing on Adjaye’s rooftop, under the stars and right along the sea, has got to be one of this world’s most memorable experiences. Tel. 81.290.029

In Focus

Maria Khairallah

Good Things Come in Fours_____ There are four new reasons to visit Aïshti by the Sea: in April, the David Adjaye-designed shopping and leisure complex launched four new boutiques. Three of them – Italian labels Max Mara (second floor), Sportmax and Weekend (both on the third floor) – belong to the Max Mara family and offer casually

elegant fashion targeted to women of various ages. The fourth brand, Off-White, also based in Italy, was created by GhanianAmerican DJ and fashion designer Virgil Abloh. One of the hippest and youngest brands on earth, Off-White prides itself on being rooted in current culture. Off-White’s unisex boutique is set on Aïshti by the Sea’s first level (the men’s floor).

In Focus Counting Stars_____ It’s a new season at Stella McCartney, and the house is celebrating its latest accessory, the Stella Star bag. It comes in seven variations, from mini to holdall, and is quilted with a metallic brass star closure. Ethically manufactured, the bag is a real statement piece, all the while maintaining the house’s simplicity and elegance. Says McCartney, “Glamour on glamour I’m not really interested in, and I never really have been. It’s taking that high and providing the low to it, and having a line that’s in reality.” We couldn’t agree more. Available at the Stella McCartney boutique in the Beirut Souks and Aïshti by the Sea

Stella McCartney

the modernist collection

100 RUE DE MADRID, MAR MIKHAEL, BEIRUT

RALPHMASRI.COM

TEL. +961-1-566-538

@RALPHMASRI

In Focus Under the Belt_____ Even though it’s part of the spring/summer collection, Burberry’s delightful new Belt bag is inspired by the brand’s signature trench coat, most visibly in the oversized belt that wraps around the bag and gives it its name. Designed in London and made in Italy, the leather bag comes in three distinct hues: black with a bright yellow belt, chalk with a sage green belt and pale ash rose with a black belt. Three colors to fit every occasion. Available at the Burberry boutique in the Beirut Souks and Aïshti by the Sea

Burberry, Raya Farhat, Alexander McQueen, Salzburg Festival

Wild Country Girl_____ A little bit gothic, a little bit rock ‘n’ roll, a whole lot of tailoring. Alexander McQueen’s collection brings together a Victorian vibe mixed with feminine silhouettes, with creative director Sarah Burton focused on the wild country girl. Black pantsuits are bunched up at the waist and paired with embellished and clunky utility boots and wild earrings and chokers. McQueen retains its deconstructed and adorned garments, powerful yet strangely delicate and beautiful. Available at Aïshti in Downtown Beirut and Aïshti by the Sea

The Sound of Music_____ Every summer, the now legendary Salzburg Festival stages operas, concerts and drama interpretations that draw the culture crowds from all over the world. In this lovely Austrian medieval town, visitors encounter stars of the classical music world, such as Domingo, Garifullina, Muti, Rattle, Barenboim and many more. Opera highlights this year include a new “The Queen of Spades” conducted by Mariss Jansons, “Salome” directed by Romeo Castellucci and Les Arts Florissants tackling Monteverdi’s “L’Incoronazione di Poppea.” The festival’s artistic director is Austrian Markus Hinterhäuser. Now in its 98th year, the Salzburg Festival has become a major social event for culture buffs, with many performances selling out just hours after having been announced. July 20-August 30, salzburgfestival.at

The Finer Things in Life_____ Baxter’s Beirut flagship, located on Al Arz Street at the very edge of Saifi and steps from Downtown, just underwent a major makeover. The upgraded two-level boutique now features a profusion of potted plants throughout the space, new wallpaper and an engaging décor that feels more like a lifestyle experience than a standard retail destination. Baxter is one of Italy’s most coveted high-end furniture manufacturers, and its offerings include sofas, dining tables, chairs, coffee tables and home accessories, all luxurious and handmade in Italy, and most available in a variety of sizes and materials. The label is particularly appreciated for its exquisite leather. Contemporary, glamorous, seductive and rife with tradition – much like Italy itself. Tel. 01.563.111

In Focus

Ring Me Up_____ Spring is always in bloom at Buccellati. The Italian jeweler carries a number of nature-inspired pieces, including a particularly lovely ring made from yellow gold and adorned with precious diamonds. Shaped like a flower, with six delicate petals set with diamonds, the ring celebrates spring’s sense of magical renewal. Available at Aïshti by the Sea

Glamour Tan_____ Emporio Del Sole, the first tanning center to open in Lebanon back in 2003, just launched its newest outpost at ABC Dbayeh. Located on Level 1, the sleek salon holds six spacious and private cabins to ensure customer comfort. Four of the cabins have the regular sun showers, one houses the revolutionary collagen sun shower and the last holds Il Divo, which focuses on the face. The ABC Dbayeh branch is the seventh Emporio Del Sole to open in Lebanon, and it features the signature sun showers made in Italy, allowing you to tan in just 10 minutes, without sweating and in total safety. Now you can have a gorgeous golden glow all year long. emporiodelsole.com

Finding Frida_____ If you’ve ever wondered about the eyebrow pencil Frida Kahlo used to emphasize her monobrow, look no further. “Making Her Self Up,” an exhibition presenting a unique collection of Kahlo’s personal artifacts and belongings (which had been locked away in Mexico for the last 50 years), is running at the V&A Museum in London. The exhibition features over 200 items, including Kahlo’s clothes, makeup, jewelry, corsets that supported her back, as well as her prosthetic leg – a veritable treasure trove of personal belongings – in an effort to show how the troubled artist empowered herself through her possessions. June 16-November 4, vam.ac.uk/ exhibitions/frida-kahlo-making-her-self-up

Borgo de Nor, Buccellati, Raya Farhat, Heidi Horten Collection/Bildrecht Wien 2018, Nickolas Muray Photo Archives

I Am Woman_____ London-based label Borgo de Nor exudes pure femininity. Romantic, playful and colorful, the brand creates sultry silhouettes designed to move with a woman’s body. Spring’s must-have affair? A dreamy pink dress featuring a plunging neckline and adorned with falling red leaves and delicate calla lilies. Available at Aïshti in Downtown Beirut and Aïshti by the Sea

First Showing_____ The private collection of Austrian billionaire Heidi Horten is showing for the first time ever at Vienna’s Leopold Museum. The stupendous show chronicles nearly three decades of art collection by a woman who professes a great passion for art and whose long-cherished wish was always to make her masterpieces accessible to a wide audience. “WOW! The Heidi Horten Collection” showcases over 170 artworks and covers 100 years of art history, with the bulk of the works belonging to the Expressionist and American Pop Art movements. Visitors can view some of the most iconic works of the past century, by the likes of Damien Hirst, Marc Chagall, Gustav Klimt, Henri Matisse, Pablo Picasso, Egon Schiele, Lucian Freud, Roy Lichtenstein, Robert Rauschenberg, Andy Warhol and many more. A highlight of the Vienna art scene. Until July 29, leopoldmuseum.org

In Focus Remembering Paris_____ In Paris, the pavé is a symbol of centuries-old marches and revolutions, including the marches of 1968, which saw Left Bank students revolting against the status quo. It has also been 50 years since Sonia Rykiel first opened its doors, and as the celebrations continue, the brand has decided to launch its own Pavé Parisien: a cuboid, edgy, functional and all the while modern bag sporting eight shades of leather and exuding a subtle femininity. Available at the Sonia Rykiel pop-up at Aïshti by the Sea

Sonia Rykiel

+961 1 983443 - www.nadag.com

NadaGJewelry

Beirut Souks ABC Dbayeh - ABC Achrafieh - ABC Verdun

In Focus

Revolution in Red_____ Two overlapping exhibits at the WolfsonianFIU in Miami Beach investigate the power of Russian propaganda during the early 20th century. Through particularly powerful posters, “Constructing Revolution: Soviet Propaganda Posters from Between the World Wars” (until August 12) examines how the Soviet state used graphic design to inspire and manipulate the public. The second exhibit, “Red and Black: Revolution in Soviet Propaganda Graphics” (until August 5), highlights Soviet propaganda art in books, periodicals, postcards and portfolio plates from The Wolfsonian–FIU Library’s archives. wolfsonian.org

Spirited Style_____ With the aim to continue appealing to a new generation, Lebanese jeweler George Hakim has launched the Spirit collection, a new range of jewelry with an easy-to-wear sensibility. Featuring four-leaf clover pendants, flower-shaped rings and other trendy pieces made from gold and delicately set diamonds, the collection is youthful, daring and designed to be worn every day. georgehakim.com

Collection of Svetlana and Eric Silverman/Matthew Cronin, George Hakim, LACMA, Hala Younes

Memories of Persia_____ The Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA) hones in on Iranian art this season, with an exhibit that explores the continuous and inescapable presence of the past in Iranian society. “In the Fields of Empty Days: The Intersection of Past and Present in Iranian Art” brings together 125 artworks, including photography, painting, sculpture, video, posters, political cartoons and more, to illustrate Iran’s multidimensional culture. Pre-Islamic kings and heroes, martyred Imams and current Islamic leaders carry forward and sometimes overlap in singular art pieces rich with social commentary. May 6-September 9, lacma.org

Somewhere Down the Crazy River_____ It’s Lebanon’s first time participating in the Venice Biennale of Architecture, and we’re absolutely thrilled. The Lebanese pavilion is showing works under the theme “The Place that Remains” and is curated by Hala Younes, assistant professor of architecture at the Lebanese American University. The pavilion’s focus is on Nahr Beirut (the Beirut River) and its watershed, exploring the preconditions for architecture through assessing certain challenges like the territory’s nature and scarcity of resources. Says Younes, “We are counting on developing knowledge of the territory in Lebanese society in order to become familiar with it and defend its value, because our heritage is not only architectural but also geographical and landscaped.” May 26-November 25, labiennale.org/en

In Focus

My Bijou_____ The iconic Drew Bijou bag, with its clean, contemporary lines, first hit the Chloé shelves in 2014. Revisited by current creative director Natacha Ramsay-Levi for her debut collection, the bag has now taken on new elements, launching in quilted calfskin and adorned with a chain of multiple interlinking rings and a long leather strap, and in an array of colors. A symbol of femininity and strength, much like the house itself. Available at the Chloé boutique in the Beirut Souks and Aïshti by the Sea

Beirut Design Week, Beiteddine Festival, Chloé, Gay Pride Beirut

Changing Beirut_____ Ready yourselves for the seventh edition of Beirut Design Week (BDW). This year’s theme, “Design and the City:___________,” has designers consider their work’s transformative role in the city, from public spaces to the home, and put forth their visions of how their work can contribute to social change. This year also sees BDW’s first Open House, which invites designers as well as activists, writers, educators and students to present the theme and the possibilities of design. Definitely worth checking out, as always. June 22-29, beirutdesignweek.org

In God’s Palace_____ Carla Bruni, Ute Lemper, a grand opening by Ziad Rahbani – those are only some of the names playing at the Beiteddine Festival this year. Taking place in the Chouf’s spectacular Beiteddine Palace, the festival was first launched in the summer of 1985 amid war and chaos, and it hasn’t stopped since – a true tale of resilience to promote the arts in Lebanon. Make sure to check out the Pierre Sadek exhibit, “Picturing History,” in which more than 300 of the artist’s caricatures are displayed. July 12-August 15, beiteddine.org

In Focus

Tales of the City_____ In “The Shape of a City,” British artist Nathaniel Rackowe looks at Beirut in an attempt to understand the changing nature of cities and the seemingly endless cycle of destruction and renewal. Taking place at Letitia Gallery in Hamra, the show features Rackowe’s signature artworks, made from industrial materials such as galvanized steel, corrugated roofing and cement blocks, all combined with artificial

Istanbul and the Sea_____ Up until the 1920s, and in spite of their home city’s endless stretches of coastline, residents of Istanbul only frequented baths when they wanted to go for a swim. But these enclosed swimming destinations quickly gave way to a nascent beach-going culture as a result of two major societal changes: secularism and the arrival of liberal-minded White Russian émigrés fleeing Communist Russia. “Istanbul’s Seaside Leisure: Nostalgia from Sea Baths to Beaches,” showing at Istanbul’s Pera Museum, takes a look at the golden age of the city’s beach culture, from the ‘20s to the ‘60s, when Istanbul developed a new sense of freedom that was reflected in a more intimate relation with the sea. The nostalgic show includes photographs, magazines, comics, objects and books, all shedding light on this hopeful and rapidly changing era. Until August 26, peramuseum.org

light. “LP48,” a massive installation that dominates the gallery space and made from locally sourced construction materials like glass-reinforced plastic and folded galvanized steel, invites viewers to reconsider their relationship with the city. “These sculptures and works on paper seek to explore the notion of a fleeting beauty that an urban environment can surprise us with,” says Rackowe. June 28-August 26, letitiagallerybeirut.com Marc Jacobs, Musée de l’Orangerie, Nathaniel Rackowe, Suna and Inan Kiraç Foundation Photography Collection

Revisiting Monet_____ In the 1950s, after one of Claude Monet’s “Water Lilies” panels was brought to New York’s Museum of Modern Art (MoMA), the work began to be seen in a different light, “a bridge between the naturalism of early Impressionism and the highly developed school of Abstract Art.” And so the idea of Abstract Impressionism was born, with Monet at the helm. “The Water Lilies. American Abstract Painting and the Last Monet,” at Paris’ Musée de L’Orangerie, focuses on the time those panels were rediscovered at the New York School of Abstract Art, while also featuring some of the artist’s later works and almost 20 paintings by the American greats. Not to be missed. Until August 20, musee-orangerie.fr/en

Around the World and Back_____ Reflecting New York’s multicultural vibe, the spring/summer 2018 collection by Marc Jacobs is a melting pot of international influences complete with sequins, glitter, florals and a wild array of colors. A standout this season is an all-white feathered top and skirt, matched with white floral slippers and an explosively pink fuchsia bag. Available at Aïshti in Downtown Beirut and Aïshti by the Sea

In Focus

Looking at Bamako_____ Posing for Malian photographer Seydou Keïta was never taken lightly: you wore your best dress and an elaborate headdress, sometimes a bow tie, sometimes leaning against a motorcycle. Keïta’s subjects showed how Bamako’s citizens saw themselves at a time when the city was transitioning into Mali’s independent capital. His 10,000 negatives were then discovered in 1992, turned into new prints, signed by Keïta, and introduced to the art world. Now you can view his signed modern prints and vintage prints at Foam in Amsterdam. Another reason to fly to the beautiful city. Until June 20, foam.org

Building a Mystery_____ The later works of Surrealist painter René Magritte are highlighted in a new exhibit at San Francisco’s Museum of Modern Art (SFMOMA). Focusing on the artist’s output from 1943 to 1967, “René Magritte: The Fifth Season” features over 50 oil paintings and a dozen gouaches in nine immersive galleries. By choosing these specific works, the SFMOMA seeks to illustrate how Magritte emerged as a champion of the role of mystery in art. Paintings of note include 1952’s “The Listening Room” and 1960’s “The Tomb of the Wrestlers.” May 19-October 28, sfmoma.org

Charles Herscovici/Artist Rights Society, Seydou Keïta/The Pigozzi Collection

In Focus

New Wave_____ The Kooples’ spring/summer 2018 women’s collection is inspired by French New Wave cinema and its most memorable icons – Jeanne Moreau, Marie-France Pisier, Stéphane Audran, Anna Karina. While staying faithful to The Kooples’ rock ‘n’ roll ethos, the new collection has more than a few 1950s and ‘60s touches, including miniskirts and ethereal dresses with retro prints. Two spring must-haves: a flouncy ultra-short dress that’s a as light as a feather with delicate floral prints and a ruffled sheer white blouse with playful cherry prints. Available at The Kooples boutique in Downtown Beirut and Aïshti by the Sea

Barcelona’s Sonic Boom_____ Legendary electronic music festival Sónar is back, and it’s bigger than ever. Celebrating 25 years, the Barcelona festival features more than 140 performances across 10 stages at Sónar by Day and Sónar by Night, including performances by musical icons like LCD Soundsystem, Diplo, Gorillaz, Thom Yorke, Cornelius and countless others. Sónar is also taking things to an extra(terrestrial) level, turning its antennas toward outer space and sending radio messages in an attempt to communicate with the great beyond. Need we say more? June 14-16, sonar.es

Tarek Atoui/Alexandre Guirkinger, Sónar, The Kooples

Songs of Land and Sea_____ It’s Lebanese-French artist Tarek Atoui’s first solo exhibition in Southeast Asia, and it’s at the NTU Center for Contemporary Art Singapore. The sound artist and composer has created a composition in the form of a large-scale exhibition using interweaving objects, instruments and recordings, including interventions by local and international musicians. “The Ground: From the Land to the Sea” consists of two layers of auditory experiences that also interact with the exhibition hall, merging into one single, spectacular composition. With sounds of underwater environments as well as human and industrial activities on land, Atoui’s composition has it all. You’re in for a unique experience. Until June 24, ntu.ccasingapore.org

p. Paola Naone - ph.Andrea Ferrari

Baxter flagship store Al Arz street, Saifi Beirut Lebanon +961 1 563 111 baxter@vivre.com.lb Vivre Dbayeh internal rd & Congress Center bridge inters Antelias +961 4 520 111 inside@vivre.com.lb vivre.com.lb

OBJECTS OF DESIRE Photography Aly Saab

100

BAG GUCCI______ DON’T BE FOOLED, THIS GUCCI PURSE IS THE REAL DEAL. BUT THERE’S NO HARM IN A LITTLE HUMOR, IS THERE? INSPIRED BYTHESEGALOGO,IT’SBOUNDTOTURN SOME HEADS

Bag Off-White __________ Streetwear reigns supreme in 2018, with OffWhite at the helm. Complete with black diagonal prints and a leather shoulder strap, weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve got the streetwear aesthetic nailed down

101

Shoes Jimmy Choo _______ It’s a fantastic plastic collection! We didn’t expect any less from the OffWhite x Jimmy Choo collaboration, and we’re pining for these Claire 100 Pointy Toe Pumps

102

103

BAG MAISON MARGIELA __________ IT’S CALLED A GLAM SLAM, BUT WE MUCH PREFER “PILLOW BAG.” WITH ITS ROUND EDGES AND PLUSH TEXTURE, JOHN GALLIANO’S CREATED A DREAM OF A BAG

104

Shoes Arcosanti __________ Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s party season, so put on your dancing shoes, preferably nude sandals that complement any outfit. Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re ready to go!

SUNGLASSES ALAIN MIKLI______ ITâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S NOT SUMMER WITHOUT A GOOD PAIR OF SUNGLASSES, AND THIS RETRO 1980S STYLE IS TOTAL EYE CANDY

105

106

Shoes Prada ________ After a harsh winter, we ache for delicate slingbacks, and Pradaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s leather pumps with a pink arch are just what the doctor ordered

107

BAG CAROLINA SANTO DOMINGO______ HANDCRAFTED IN ITALY, THE AMPHORA LEATHER HAS EASILY MADE IT TO “IT BAG” STATUS

Words Niku Kasmai

108

FASHION AND THE REVOLUTION What does the future hold for the fashion industry? Until recently, fashion had been happy to rest on its laurels. While the technological revolution was overtaking the globe, fashion remained attached to traditional production techniques, with the vast majority of fashion houses still producing shirts, dresses, pants, skirts and shoes the same way they did 100 years ago. As other industries invested heavily in research and development, fashion most noticeably didn’t, limiting itself to shifting production from Europe and the United States to more affordable labor markets.

But the fashion world is on the verge of a revolution. For the first time in recent memory, and due to fierce competition from the likes of Internet giant Amazon, which now offers eight in-house clothing brands, designers are teaming up with

tech companies to introduce incredible new manufacturing techniques and innovative materials.

When he showcased his spring/summer 2017 collection, Hussein Chalayan was one of the first designers to combine technology and fashion, and he did so with sunglasses powered by an Intel system that picks up the wearer’s emotions, and then projects imagery through the wearer’s belt to illustrate those feelings.

Other futuristic collaborations mixing fashion with tech include the Fitbit accessories designed by Tory Burch, allowing you to track your fitness routine in style via Tory Burch’s double-wrap, metal hinge bracelet. Then there’s Levi’s Commuter Trucker Jacket with Jacquard

This page and opposite page: Prada’s spring/summer 2018 collection

by Google. The jacket’s left sleeve is actually an interactive touchpad powered by a bluetooth-operated tag that’s rechargeable. Tech offerings inside the jacket sleeve are still limited – GPS, music – but they are a harbinger of things to come, a time in the near future when tech will operate via screenless devices located within our clothes. Technology is also changing traditional manufacturing techniques. In a bid to transform fashion into an environmentally friendly industry, biotech companies are developing new clothing materials that no longer require needle and thread. They are instead grown in a science lab with DNA.

The shift toward sustainable fashion started a while back, most famously when Stella McCartney launched her fur-free and

109

Hussein Chalayan’s spring/ summer 2018 runway

leather-free label in 2001. Insisting that great design was as important as the choice of fabrics, McCartney shocked the fashion world by achieving great success for her brand, while remaining true to her ethical fashion philosophy. “The really great thing about my shop is that there’s not one dead animal in it,” McCartney said. “Manolo’s got a load of fabric shoes as well! We use plastic, fabric, rubber – anything but leather. I almost feel like I’ve been put here to show everyone that it’s unnecessary.” 110

Fast-forward 17 years and there are now more eco-friendly brands than one can count, including clothing labels Nudie Jeans and Filippa K, both from Sweden, and Jungmaven from LA. Amsterdambased Dick Moby creates ethical eyewear, and shoe manufacturer Nisolo, based in the United States, carries handcrafted shoes made through sustainable practices in Peru, Mexico and Kenya. Knowledge Cotton Apparel from Denmark uses 100% organic cotton and recycled PET polyester for its casual menswear line, and New Yorkbased women’s label Edun works with artists and local communities across Africa to manufacture its ethical clothing. “We see the future in recycled materials and cellulose-based materials,” said Filippa K’s sustainability manager Erin Larsson, “but also in completely new ones. For example, what is waste for one industry might be a resource for us, such as milk fibers, coffee grounds, plastic retained from waste water, bi-products from algae processes.”

The major fashion brands have also taken note of this global shift toward greener manufacturing practices. Prada now offers a selection of clothing pieces made across the globe that use each country’s area of expertise, and Giorgio Armani has banned faux fur from its fashion lexicon. Last year, Christopher Kane teamed up with ethical fashion business Eco-Age to create a sustainable collection for the Emma Watson flick Beauty and the Beast. The label used green materials like organic cotton

The spring/summer 2018 collection by Christopher Kane

A futuristic look from Christopher Kane (above) and three styles from Giorgio Armani’s spring/ summer 2018 collection (below)

GIORGIO ARMANI HAS BANNED FAUX FUR FROM ITS FASHION LEXICON

and organic silk satin. And trailblazer Stella McCartney is developing new materials, including a type of silk made from yeast. “We try to make earth-friendly decisions whenever we can,” said McCartney. “It’s part of our brand DNA.” Looking even further into the future, some companies are developing a type of machine that makes clothing, canceling out the need for human labor altogether. Seattlebased Sewbo has created an industrial robot that sews together a T-shirt, marking

111

the first time ever that an entire piece of clothing was created through automated sewing. This milestone was announced by the technology’s inventor, Jonathan Zornow. “Avoiding labor issues and shortening supply chains will help reduce the complexity and headaches surrounding today’s intricate global supply network,” he said. “And digital manufacturing will revolutionize fashion.”

112

Stella McCartney’s vision for spring/ summer 2018

Aïshti, Downtown Beirut 01.991111 Aïshti by the Sea, Antelias 04.717716

Featuring artwork by Andy Warhol ©/®/™ The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, Inc.

Words Rayane Abou Jaoude

COLOR CODES

114

the team as hair color director and balayage expert at the Julien Farel Restore Salon, Spa & Fitness in New York, and her clientele includes big names like Olivia Palermo and Rita Ora. She also travels on demand and works on the Miss Universe pageant, and is doing regular visits to Aïshti by the Sea’s spa in Antelias.

A Mag catches up with celebrity hair colorist Abby Haliti at Aïshti by the Sea Abby Haliti is the hair colorist most people dream of visiting. Renowned for the French hair technique balayage, which involves highlighting hair to create a natural-looking effect, Haliti offers a simple approach to coloring: making her clients feel comfortable and empowered.

“I’ve always enjoyed making people feel good about themselves, and I found a way to transfer that passion into my work,” she says. “I started off doing both cut and color, and eventually I began to specialize in balayage. Nothing makes me happier than being able to empower and make people feel good about themselves.” Haliti, who is originally Albanian, first launched her career about 21 years ago when she moved to the United States. She now leads

“Aïshti by the Sea has by far one of the most pleasant hair salons that I’ve ever been to. It’s hard to find a salon that’s not just about the hair, but also has an amazing, welcoming staff that has a genuine passion for what they do,” she says. For Haliti, hair coloring is an art; choosing the right color is an integral aspect to delivering the right results, “almost like painting on a canvas,” she says. Her work process is a rigorous one, and begins with observing the client’s hair: the head sculpture, the density, how the hair moves and the length.

“I go through a very realistic and detailed process – I won’t do color just for the sake of finishing the job and calling it a day. I am always honest with my clients,” Haliti says.

During the summer, people tend to move toward lighter colors, so there is a rise in bright highlights, she explains. But trends are also always changing and evolving, which means it’s difficult to point out what clients will be looking for in the future. One thing is certain, however; they are moving toward a healthier and more organic approach to hair. “My mantra has always been ‘less is more.’ I believe that balayage will continue to be a rising trend since it allows for a more natural-looking appearance,” Haliti explains. “People are leaving oversaturated, frosty highlights in the past.” Abby Haliti is back at Aïshti by the Sea’s spa on May 14 and 15.

Words Nicole Anderson

GREAT EXPECTATIONS On three remote islands in Japan, art reigns supreme

116

117

Upon arriving by ferry to Naoshima’s Miyanoura port, you’re first welcomed by artist Yayoi Kusama’s colossal, black-dotted “Red Pumpkin.” Set against the blue waters of Japan’s Seto Inland Sea and verdant hills, the whimsical installation is the first indication that this is not a typical seaside retreat but a far-flung cultural mecca for those who have a particular wanderlust for contemporary art and architecture.

This page and previous pages: Teshima Art Museum Opposite page: Chichu Art Museum

Mitsuo Matsuoka, Noboru Morikawa, Ken’ichi Suzuki

118

119

Benesse Art Site Naoshima, like other remote destinations – from Donald Judd’s Chinati foundation in Marfa to Storm King in upstate New York to Museum of Old and New Art in Tasmania – offers an alternative context for experiencing art, one where land and nature interact with the artwork, where local traditions rub shoulders with modernity and innovation. The art, however, isn’t just for the benefit of the passerby or the transient art lover, but also serves as a tool in the revitalization of the place itself and its community, and for Soichiro Fukutake, the billionaire art patron and former chairman of Benesse Holdings, Inc. that was the driving motivation for establishing Naoshima as a cultural hub. “I became firmly convinced that the region could be transformed by establishing attractive contemporary art museums bearing a critical message toward modern society on the very islands where Japan’s primeval landscape still survives,” he says in a personal statement.

LAND AND NATURE INTERACT WITH THE ARTWORK To bike the pine tree-lined roads of the island, hopping from one museum and installation to the next, it is nearly impossible to imagine that this serene landscape – also Japan’s first national park – was nearly turned into an industrial wasteland, home to refineries and a Mitsubishi metals processing plant. To make matters worse, the population had declined, as more people in rural areas left for cities. But then a twist of fate set the island on a new course. Fukutake conceived a plan to

Michael Kellough, Mitsuo Matsuoka, Ken’ichi Suzuki

120

The journey to get there is an odyssey of near Homeric proportions, that, when traveling from abroad, requires several modes of transit, including flights, trains, taxis and ferries. But once stepping ashore, it is a trek well worth taking, and embedded in the landscape of this 3.1-square-mile island are installations by the likes of James Turrell, Walter De Maria, Lee Ufan and Dan Graham, with structures, of equal measure, by Tadao Ando, Hiroshi Sambuichi, and Kazuyo Sejima and Ryue Nishizawa of SANAA.

121

bring contemporary art to Naoshima, and eventually to the neighboring and equally idyllic fishing islands, Teshima and Inujima. And soon a cultural district was born on the southern end of Naoshima, first with the opening of Benesse House Museum, a hotel and a museum.

What followed was an expansive and pioneering approach to art, which in turn, recast the viewing experience through the commissioning of site-specific works, immersive installations and dynamic buildings, much of them designed by renowned architect Tadao Ando. One of the finest examples on the island is the Chichu Art Museum. The building, designed by Ando, is a series of concrete subterranean spaces built into the land. You move through the museum almost as if in a ceremonial art procession, each space commanding quiet and contemplation – from James Turrell’s “Open Field,” a glowing blue dream-like installation, to the celestial light flooding the stairs of Walter de Maria’s room. A short ferry ride away brings you to Teshima, where artist Rei Naito and architect Ryue Nishizawa collaborated on the Teshima Art Museum, an amorphous and sparse white structure, perched on a hill and overlooking the Seto Inland Sea. The building, exposed

to the trees and sky through two ovular apertures, is designed to mimic the form of a water droplet, meanwhile actual droplets of water glide across the floor, as if in an improvisational and mesmerizing dance. And some of the most compelling art on the island are the smaller works that suddenly reveal themselves, such as Noe Aoki’s “Particles in the Air” at the entrance of the village of Karato, which was installed as part of the Setouchi Triennale in 2010. But at every turn, art emerges and communes with the surroundings, in both bold and subtle gestures, and that is what makes the islands so enchanting – and so deserving of the journey to get there.

This page: “Time/Timeless/No Time” by Walter de Maria Opposite page: View from Benesse House Museum (top) and James Turrell’s “Open Field” (bottom)

Words Ramsay Short

SWAY ME MORE simply being a hobby, but that’s absolutely not the case. It’s a full-time job, with lots of responsibilities and a very hectic rhythm.”

122

Fashion blogger and Insta influencer Lana El Sahely concurs. “I have to admit that it’s crazy how being an influencer became such a legitimate ‘job,’” says the Lebanese fashion social media entrepreneur, who originally built up an audience of loyal followers through her L’Armoire de Lana fashion blog. She’s now created an e-shop on her website where she curates and collaborates with brands to sell their products. “So I approach brands, and they approach me. It happens in both directions. Personally I endorse the brands that I genuinely love in my daily life and that makes a difference and brings opportunities,” says El Sahely, who has almost 230,000 Instagram followers.

If you’re on Instagram, have 1,000 followers or more and your images are good, it is entirely possible you can become an Insta influencer and get paid upward of $150 per promotional post.

Arida, El Sahely and popular fellow Lebanese fashion blogger Miriam Abadi, of course make it very personal, with images of themselves in particular outfits and glimpses of their personal lives too. “In 2016 I was chosen by Harpers Bazaar Arabia as one of their best dressed people in the region,” says Abadi, who has over 30,000 followers on Instagram. “I launched my Insta profile and brands began to approach me to be part of their campaigns though I only choose ones I would use and which reflect my philosophy.”

The leading areas are travel, food and fashion. Just search #vanlife, for example, and you’ll find numerous (goodlooking) couples and single travelers who traipse around in traditional VW Campervans, taking beautiful images of themselves against a background of sun-soaked beaches, perhaps wearing a brand name bikini, or carrying an ecofriendly water bottle, tagged and paid for.

With the news that Instagram has made products “shoppable” – click on an image of a watch and be directly able to buy it – and provided brands with the direct statistics of how the number of followers you have is translating into sales, influencers’ stories and ability to connect via video and image are now all the more crucial to their ability to make a living out of it.

Instagram has spawned a new influencer economy

The influencer economy on Instagram is worth a billion dollars and growing all the time, the idea being that in the era of social media, traditional advertising has lost much value to the power of personal recommendation. Of course big social media stars and celebrities with hundreds of thousands of followers can make thousands of dollars from posts, but brands are just as interested in quality (when it comes to followers) over quantity.

Influencers don’t just get cash either. In exchange for posts endorsing beauty products, food, hotels and more, they’ll get free gifts, holidays, comped meals and drinks. All in all it’s a bona fide career. Just ask Lebanese influencer Nour Arida, whose Instagram followers number 280,000. “I think there’s a big misconception about being an Instainfluencer,” she says. “Some people may perceive it as

To do really well as an Insta influencer in what is a constantly evolving ecosystem, it’s increasingly important that you have a story that chimes with your audience, so you must be prepared to share. “It’s not enough to say that a product or experience is great,” says Abadi. “To succeed in influence marketing you must provide genuine feedback that might make your followers choose a certain product. You need to be credible.”

Arida believes that influencers have become an important part of the media universe. “Advertising through influencers has become more authentic and more accessible to people,” she says. “I personally believe that influencers are here to stay, but not all of them. This market is saturated and only influencers with a true identity and a clear message will remain.”

ICONIC WOMEN 124

WHO RUNS THE WORLD? GIRLS, AND ESPECIALLY THE STYLISH ONES. HEREâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S A CELEBRATION OF THOSE WHO HAVE SHAPED OUR SARTORIAL TIME, STYLE ICONS WHO CAPTIVATED OUR IMAGINATION, BOTH ON SCREEN AND ON THE STREETS

7. 2.

EMMA WATSON

125

9. 14.

10. 15. 12.

11. 17.

1. Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini 2. Saint Laurent 3. Off-White 4. Chloé 5. Loewe 6. Alexander McQueen 7. Zimmermann 8. Balmain 9. Prada 10. Chloé 11. Balenciaga 12. Burberry 13. Rag & Bone 14. Jimmy Choo 15. Gianvito Rossi 16. Stella McCartney 17. Gucci

13. 16.

12.

GLORIA STEINEM 126

10.

11. 8.

14.

1. Phillip Lim 2. Cult Gaia 3. Nada G Blat Beirut rings 4. Dolce & Gabbana 5. Etro 6. Marni 7. Diane von Furstenberg 8. Jimmy Choo 9. Chloé 10. Miu Miu 11. Gucci 12. Tory Burch 13. Pucci 14. Chloé 15. Azzedine Alaïa 16. Loewe

13.

15. 9.

16.

4. 3.

8. 1. 9. 5.

MARLENE DIETRICH

6. 7.

128

12. 13.

11. 14.

15.

10. 1. Off-White 2. Dolce & Gabbana 3. & 4. Saint Laurent 5. Calvin Klein 6. Stella McCartney 7. Balenciaga 8. Diane von Furstenberg 9. Alice + Olivia 10. Stella McCartney 11. & 12. Jimmy Choo 13. Saint Laurent 14. Gucci 15. Stella McCartney 16. Gucci 17. Dolce & Gabbana 18. Gucci

17. 18. 16.

4. 3.

2. 1.

YOKO ONO 12.

130

11.

13. 8.

10.

14. 1. Alexander McQueen 2. Dolce & Gabbana 3. Etro 4. Prada 5. Gucci 6. Balenciaga 7. Attico 8. Prada 9. Saint Laurent 10. Burberry 11. Saint Laurent 12. Alexander McQueen 13. Proenza Schouler 14. Y/Project 15. Maison Margiela 16. Stella McCartney 17. Saint Laurent 18. Prada

17.

18. 16. 15.

132

DOMESTIC BLISS PHOTOGRAPHY TONY ELIEH

SHOT AT THE AÏSHTI FOUNDATION

133

Prada top and purse GPO Rotary Telephone

134

Balenciaga bag, MSGM dress

135

Sonia Rykiel dress, Burberry shoes GPO Bermuda Classic Retro Style Turntable

136

ChloĂŠ bag, Sonia Rykiel top and Proenza Schouler skirt Sony PlayStation DualShock 4 wireless controller

137

Valentino sneakers, Off-White top Pieces printed with Ultimaker 3D Printer

138

Off-White heels Illy Francis Francis X7.1 iperEspresso machine Fashion items available at AĂŻshti stores. Electronics and home accessories available at AĂŻshti Home Solutions

Lebanon: Aïshti Downtown Beirut Aïshti By the Sea Antelias Aïshti Verdun dvf.com

SIZZLING SWIM PHOTOGRAPHY BACHAR SROUR STYLING CLARA MELKI SHOT ON LOCATION AT AÏSHTI BY THE SEA

She wears a dress and shoes by Sonia Rykiel, earrings by Oscar de la Renta and bracelets by Chloé and Mishky

Sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in a Mara Hoffman swimsuit and Dior sunglasses. Her bag is by Heimat Atlantica

Karina is in a Red Valentino kimono, Oye swimsuit, and Yulyaffairs necklace. Her bag is by Miu Miu

Sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in an Off-White swimsuit, Sara Battaglia pants and Massada sunglasses. Her bag is by Sara Battaglia

Sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in a Mara Hoffman swimsuit and Moschino sunglasses. Her bag is by Weekend Max Mara

She wears a Kenzo swimsuit, Helmut Lang top, Dita sunglasses and Saint Laurent sandals Model Karina Khan at Velvet Management Hair Eddy at AĂŻshti by the Seaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s spa

BROOKLYN BABY PHOTOGRAPHY PETROVSKY & RAMONE

STYLING SONNY GROO

SHOT ON LOCATION IN BROOKLYN, NEW YORK CITY

Jasmine wears a Bottega Veneta jacket and Oscar de la Renta pants

This page and opposite: Sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in a CĂŠline total look

She wears a Max Mara dress

She’s in a Sonia Rykiel jumpsuit and Céline top and boots

CĂŠline boots

This page and opposite: She wears an Alexander McQueen coat

Sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wearing a Dolce & Gabbana dress and Prada sandals

This page: Bottega Veneta necklace and Stella McCartney pants Opposite page: Sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in a Gucci suit and Dolce & Gabbana bra

Sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in a Prada total look

She wears a Gucci suit and Dolce & Gabbana bra

Sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in Oscar de la Renta pants and Gianvito Rossi boots

She’s in a Céline coat

Sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in a Calvin Klein total look

She wears a Balenciaga shirt and carries a Max Mara bag

She wears a Miu Miu dress and underwear, and Gianvito Rossi boots

Sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in pants Bottega Venetabybag Sonia Rykiel

Sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in a Bottega Veneta top, Stella McCartney pants and Gianvito Rossi heels