INDIA’S FOOD AND ITS IDENTITY
fo o d A N T H R O P O LO GY & world G A S T R O N O MY
ILLUSTRATED BY BOMBAY DUCK DESIGNS
FOOD ANTHROPOLOGY AND WORLD GASTRONOMY
INTRODUCTION
F
ood is not something that just satisfies biological hunger. It’s something way, way beyond…It’s a way in which you try to elicit your sense of normality, your world, your relationships, who you are, your sense of identity.’ by Manpreet K. Janeja, author of Transactions in Taste: The Collaborative Lives of Everyday Bengali Food The Republic of India, Asia’s second-largest country after China, occupies the largest part of the South Asian subcontinent, which it shares with Pakistan, Nepal, Bhutan, and Bangladesh. The cuisine of India has is considered one of the world’s most diverse cuisines. Extensive immigration and intermingling of cultures through many millennia has introduced many dietary and cultural influences.
INDIAN ETHNIC CUISINE
‘Food is not something that just satisfies biological hunger. It’s something way, way beyond…It’s a way in which you try to elicit your sense of normality, your world, your relationships, who you are, your sense of identity.’ by Manpreet K. Janeja, author of Transactions in Taste: The Collaborative Lives of Everyday Bengali Food
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TERRITORY Wheat dominates in the North Indian diet, whilst the rice is a key cereal in South India. There are many different varieties of wheat bread in North India. In Northern India, it has distinct seasons summer, rainy season, and winter which brings changes in seasonal vegetables that are available. whilst in the south, it is humid and warm all year round with no major changes in the types of vegetables that are available. The most common vegetable in the South are roots, raw bananas, and leafy greens. South Indian food is the antithesis of Northern Indian food. Their distinctive rice crepes(dosas) and steamed rice cakes(idlis) have been a favourite amongst Southern Indians. Their common thread in the Southern region of Kerala is coconut, which is the culinary mascot of the state. The wide costal line also includes palm and coconut trees into their diet along with fish playing an important element in each states cuisine. The Western states of Gujarat, Maharashtra and Goa all have unique food experiences. Parts of cosmopolitan Maharashtra are coastal, and parts arid, and the food varies accordingly. Peanuts and coconut are important ingredients as they are freely available. Goa with its lush green coastline has an abundance of fresh fish and seafood. Eastern states such as West Bengal, Orissa, Bihar, and Jharkhand are quite different from each other. Bengali cuisine can be described as delicate and subtle, with fish and rice at the centre of the diet, owing to the presence along the coats of bay of Bengal. Orissa is known for squash blossoms dipped in a paste made with rice and deep-fried or made into patties. Fish and other seafood are also dietary stables. Chicken is very unlikely to be served here and in general meat plays a minor culinary role.
“North, East, South and West are the four different main regional styles in Indian cooking. The climate varies across the whole country and the different regions are characterised by distinct food habits based on what is available locally. The key difference in cuisine linked to climate is the type of cereal that is consumed.
Traditional serving styles vary from region to region in India. A universal presentation is the thali, a large plate with samplings of different regional dishes accompanied by raita, breads such as naan, puri, or roti, and rice. In South India, a cleaned banana leaf is often used as a hygienic and visually interesting alternative to plates. The order of serving food varies with different communities, but the most followed sequence is as below. • • • • • • • • • •
Serving is started off with a sweet (to cleanse your palette). Appetizers like vada, murukku (Fried dishes) are served. Special rice or roti with special curry if any is served. Chutneys and pickles are served then. Rice is served. Dry or fried curries are served. It is followed with a semi solid curry Then follows the Soups like rasam, sambar etc., along with papad, chips. Then comes yogurt with fruit. The meal is finished a dessert / ice cream with sweet Pan here.
Generally the flavor profile goes from sweet to spicy to salty and then backwards again.
FOOD ANTHROPOLOGY AND WORLD GASTRONOMY
POPULAR CULTURAL PRACTICES People in India enjoy all kinds of delicacies. Idli, Paratha or different types of Dosa for breakfast, proper meals for lunch and delicious food for dinner. Several customs are associated with the manner of food consumption in India. Traditionally, meals are eaten while seated either on the floor or on very low stools or cushions. Food is most often eaten without cutlery, using instead the fingers of the right hand (not the left since that hand is used for cleaning oneself after a bowel movement). Indian culture dictates that eating with your hands is a pleasurable experience, activating a so-called sixth sense, rather than using cutlery. Furthermore, the food is already in bite-size pieces making the use of a knife and fork unnecessary. Traditionally, the fingers are also used to feel the temperature of the food to one’s taste, and combine flavours such as by tearing a small portion of bread (Roti, Naan) folding it into a small pocket to scoop a desired amount of food. However, these traditional ways of dining have been altered under the influence of eating styles from other parts of the world. Indians eat several small meals a day. Many families begin the day at dawn with prayers. Breakfast usually includes a traditional Indian dish such as aloo paratha (a flatbread stuffed with potato and fried). Other popular breakfast dishes include halwa (made with ground wheat, butter, sugar and sliced almonds) or uppma, which is a spicier version of halwa, dosas, idlis etc based on the region.
INDIAN ETHNIC CUISINE
South India Rice is eaten at all meals, and lunch is often three courses, again each served with rice. Dinner traditionally is served quite late, and includes two or three vegetable dishes along with rice and chapati . In many households, both adults and children take a cup of hot milk, flavoured with sugar and a touch of cardamom before going to sleep. While most of the cooking in households is managed by women, catering for huge social events is run majorly by men. Agriculture being the predominant occupation of India, most of the food had been cultivated in fields that belong to families. But with the advent of urbanisation and cultural changes most of the population now relies on grocery stores for their monthly food purchase. Super markets and hypermarkets have also sprung up in a number of locations, but have not yet become the destinations for grocery shopping.
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SYMBOLISM AND RELIGION Hindu and Muslim are the two dominate religions that have influenced Indian cooking and food habits the most. Vegetarianism is commonly practiced in many Buddhist, Jain, and Hindu communities. Over 80% of Indians follow the Hindu religion and its offshoots such as Jainism. Hinduism prescribes respect for life forms and has contributed to the prevalence of vegetarianism in India especially in the North. One of the main impacts on cuisine is that the main source of protein is lentils and beans as opposed to meat and fish. Cows are sacred to Hindus, milk and milk products such as vegan cottage cheese, curd, and sweets made of milk solid parts are considered auspicious and are part of the cuisine. The Christian tradition is as old as Christianity itself. Like the Muslims, Christians are fish and meat eaters also but developed their own cooking techniques over time. Christians have no restrictions on meat eating unlike Muslims they are prohibited from eating Pork and Hindus are Vegan.
FOOD ANTHROPOLOGY AND WORLD GASTRONOMY
Muslim tradition is the most dominate in the cooking of meats. Mughlai food, kabaas, rich Kormas (curry), and nargisi kaftas (meatballs), the biryani (a layered rice and meat dish), rogan josh, and favorite dishes prepared in a clay over or tandoor are wonderful contributions made by Muslims in India. Gujarat is mostly Muslim, Parsis, Hindu, and Jains, which each having their own method to cooking. Parsis have a rich diet of chicken and seafood, unlike Jains, who are strictly vegetarian for religious reasons. Gujaratis are predominately veggie eaters and Gujarat is celebrated for being one of the best places to eat vegetarian food. Kitchens are considered as an integral part of the religious beliefs as much as the food habits. Kitchens in temples and homes follow different etiquettes and rules based on the local culture and traditions. Cooking methods and tools are also defined by these beliefs, for example in the brahmin sect of Hindu religion cooking involves a lot of rules like entering the kitchen only after taking a bath, not touching the dishes with the same hand, not sharing food from each other’s plate etc. INDIAN ETHNIC CUISINE
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NATIONAL IDENTITY & POLITICAL IMPLICATIONS There is closed link between food and employment in the development process. Despite having a strong culinary tradition India has the largest number of hungry people in the world. In 1947, when the country achieved independence from Great Britain, India’s political leaders were confronted with numerous challenges. Among the most serious of challenges resulting from widespread poverty and chronic energy deficiency due to a combination of low-literacy and poor access to safe-drinking water, sanitation and health care. Although substantial improvements have taken place in the past six decades—e.g. the number of undernourished individuals decreased from 210 million in 1990–1992 to 194.6 million in 2014– 2016 (FAO 2015), there is now widespread consensus among scholars, practitioners and policymakers that improvements in nutritional status have not kept pace with the country’s impressive success in spurring economic growth in the past few decades. With 15.2 % of the population categorised as undernourished—and a prevalence of stunting in children under 5 years at 38.8 %—India is ranked 80th among 104 countries in the current Global Hunger Index compiled by the International Food Policy Research Institute (IFPRI 2015). An important result of the right to food movement and the resulting judicial activism was the enactment of the National Food Security Act (NFSA) in 2013, which has attracted considerable attention regarding its potential to radically improve the food security of over 800 million Indians. The NFSA converted many existing food security programmes such as the TPDS into legal entitlements for recipients. It entitles up to 75 % of the rural population and up to 50 % of the urban population (thus covering two-thirds of the currently estimated population of 1.25 billion) to 5 kilograms (kg) of rice, wheat, or coarse cereals per person per month at a subsidised price of 1–3 Rupees per kg.
The challenge for India is to pursue policies that continue to increase food production in an environmentally sustainable manner while undertaking major steps to improve food storage facilities. In addition, the country must devise better methods to identify food insecure households and adopt a set of policy instruments—either subsidies or cash transfers or both—that take into account local realities.
FOOD ANTHROPOLOGY AND WORLD GASTRONOMY
“While India has achieved considerable success in reducing extreme poverty, it continues to top world hunger charts. This reality should indeed force politicians to place food security at the top of their policy agendas.”
INDIAN ETHNIC CUISINE
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CONTAMINATION Some of India’s foods date back five thousand years. The Indus Valley people (who settled in what is now northern Pakistan) hunted turtles and alligator, as well as wild grains, herbs and plants. Many foods from the Indus period (c. 3000–1500 B.C.) remain common today. Some include wheat, barley, rice, tamarind, eggplant and cucumber. The Indus Valley peoples cooked with oils, ginger, salt, green peppers, and turmeric root, which would be dried and ground into an orange powder. The Aryan-speaking people who entered India between 1500 and 1000 B.C used leafy vegetables, lentils, and milk products such as yogurt and ghee (clarified butter). The Aryans also used spices such as cumin and coriander. Black pepper was widely used by 400 A.D. The Greeks brought saffron, while the Chinese introduced tea. The Portuguese and British made red chili, potato and cauliflower popular after 1700 A.D. Perhaps the biggest contributors to India’s culinary heritage are the Muslim peoples from Persia and present-day Turkey, who began arriving in India after 1200.
These people, known later as the Mughals, ruled much of India between 1500 and early 1800. They saw food as an art, and many Mughal dishes are cooked with as many as twenty-five spices, as well as rose water, cashews, raisins and almonds. North India was influenced by the Moghuls dynasty that ruled India for three centuries until the British replaced them in the 1800s. Saffron and rich gravies made of pureed nuts and cream were all derived from the Moghuls. Naan bread, which is made in a tandoor, is not indigenously Indian. It is the everyday bread of the Afghani people. Naan is not the homemade daily bread of Indians, yet for decades, this has been a mass misperception of Indian food outside the country. Next, the Nizams and the Portuguese developed their own style of cooking with the notable dishes like Biryani and Indian Vindaloo dish respectively. This was followed by the Chinese, British and Anglo-Indian influence on Indian food. This continued in modern days as well.
FOOD ANTHROPOLOGY AND WORLD GASTRONOMY
There has also been Indonesian influence in the south Indian cuisine at a time of 800-1000 AD with the Hindu rulers that ruled Indonesia which had strong connection with India then. The Idlis which are now an integral part of the south Indian cuisine was originally an Indonesian innovation which was then brought to India. Over 5,000 years of history, India has welcomed a multitude of settlers with a variety of belief systems. Today’s Indian cuisine is a result of the great evolution it has undergone with the rich mix of immigrant knowledge, beliefs and traditions
INDIAN ETHNIC CUISINE
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“The history of Indian food can be traced back to the ancient days when the culture of preparing food with proper methods was introduced by the two ancient Indian civilizations – The Harappa and the Mohenjadaro.”
FOOD ANTHROPOLOGY AND WORLD GASTRONOMY
HISTORY The history of Indian food can be traced back to the ancient days when the culture of preparing food with proper methods was introduced by the two ancient Indian civilizations – The Harappa and the Mohenjadaro. The first preparation of food included a number of cereals and pulses. Gradually, the ancient Indian civilization moved towards perfection. This was noticed during the Vedic period, which defined better forms of cooking with innovative recipes. In this period of time, a regular diet consisted of vegetables, fruits, grains, meat, honey, dairy products, beverages and special kind of spices. The Aryans who travelled from Central Asia introduced a number of cuisines, which complemented the Vedic food culture. Food in ancient India further faced massive changes during the rule of Maurya and Gupta Empires. During these periods of time, the consumption of meat was strictly condemned due to some sacred beliefs. Most of the people remained vegetarian due to the influence of religion. Overall the food during ancient period significantly contributed to the development of body, mind and spirit which eventually reflected the growing changes of Indian food habits. During Medieval period, the food habits underwent changes with the introduction of the most popular Mughal cuisine by the Muslims from Central Asia. They brought various kinds of fruits and flat breads among Indians. Sumptuous dishes were prepared during the rule of Shah Jahan and Jahangir. After Mughals India saw the immigration various foreigners like Portuguese, British, Chinese and many more which lead to the infusion of cooking methods and techniques into what is known as Anglo Indian cuisine. This continued in modern days as well.
INDIAN ETHNIC CUISINE
Spices are used in many Indian dishes. When it is hot, spices such as chili peppers and garlic help the body sweat and cool it down. In colder weather, spices such as cloves, cinnamon, ginger, black pepper, cardamom, and nutmeg help warm the body. Indian cuisine is varied, but many dishes are cooked in a similar way. The preparation starts with frying onion, ginger, garlic or spices such as cumin seeds in oil at a high temperature. Meats, vegetables, flavorings such as yogurt, and spices such as turmeric then are added. The dish then simmers at a low heat until the ingredients are cooked. At the end of the preparation, leafy herbs such as cilantro and flavorings such as lemon juice are added. This style of preparation may be linked to the traditional use of cow dung. For centuries, families would cook by placing a pan on top of patties made from cow dung. Like the charcoal used in modern-day barbecues, dung initially produces a high heat, but then burns slowly. Although middle-class and urban Indians have electric or gas stoves, many rural households still use cow dung (waste).
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“The restaurant industry went through a technological revolution of sorts in the last few years with the emergence of the online food ordering service.�
FOOD ANTHROPOLOGY AND WORLD GASTRONOMY
FINE DINING & EVOLUTION OF TRADITION While India has always been a food-loving country with each region having its own special cuisine, Indians have never been very big on eating out. But all that is changing now. The restaurant industry in India has been growing at a rapid pace over the last decade or so and the growth story is set to continue for the next foreseeable future. The real game changer was the entry of American fast food chain McDonalds into India in the year 1996. Indians, who had limited exposure to American food until then, lapped it up and gave rise to a huge upsurge in the quick service restaurant (QSR) industry. The following years saw the establishment of many international fast food chains such as Dominos, Pizza Hut, KFC, etc.
The restaurant industry went through a technological revolution of sorts in the last few years with the emergence of the online food ordering service. The trend gave rise to many entrepreneurs who began food ordering startups like TastyKhana, TinyOwl, and Food Panda. Ordering good food was now possible with the press of a button and the Indian consumer couldn’t be happier. While the restaurant industry in India faces many challenges like high taxes and food cost inflation, it remains a major engine of growth for the country’s economy contributing significantly to its GDP, paying crores of rupees in taxes, and providing employment to millions of people. The future looks promising for the Indian food service industry.
INDIAN ETHNIC CUISINE
And while the QSR industry was thriving, Indians discovered fine dining, too. The joy of experiential eating was new to the Indian consumer, who was hitherto reluctant to spend copious amounts of money on dining out. But greater awareness of global cuisines & gourmet food as well as the search for a heightened dining experience led them to high-end restaurants. Today, the chain fine dine market in India has around 50 players with 150-200 outlets spread across various cities and is worth Rs. 500 crores. Another interesting development for the restaurant industry was the rise of niche restaurants serving specific cuisines and specialties. Niche restaurants like Oh! Calcutta, Pind Baluchi, and Zambarmade inroads into the Indian market. As India went through another invasion – that of the mall culture – Indians were treated to a whole new concept of eating. Food courts made their foray into India and thanks to their quick service, value for money pricing, and casual atmosphere, had soon captured the imagination of the Indian consumer.
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THE OUTSIDER Indian food is always considered spicy and full of flavours. Indian cooking uses spices in an inspired manner. They are used to enhance rather than dominate the food’s basic flavor. They have developed thousands of different dishes using various combinations of a couple dozen basic flavors. Most Americans would call the spiced Indian sauces “curries,” but they are far different than that jar of “curry powder” you can find in the American Supermarket. Biryani & pulao are made from basmati rice (much tastier than California or Japanese grown rice). These dishes are very common and considered very tasty to many people from abroad, but few may tend to find them dry and boring. People who like to eat protein content food choose cottage cheese (paneer) as one of their favourites. It is cooked in innumerable ways, with spinach in palak paneer, in gravy with peas in matar paneer & paneer pakodas are a favourite with them.
There are estimates of more than 7500 Indian restaurants in the Uk, Indian cuisine is one of the most popular cuisines in UK. While in the USA, interest in Asian ethnic food has been strongest in Chinese food, while Japanese sushi and Thai food are slowly reaching a broader audience. However Indian Cuisine is one of the well-known cuisines in the US. Across the world too, the popularity of Indian food is growing and Indian restaurant chains are following the taste buds. According to Hemant Oberoi, group executive chef at the Tatas’ Taj group of hotels, and the first Indian chef to be nominated to the World Gourmet Club “There is life beyond tandoori chicken and biryani in Indian food today. Now people travel far more, and are familiar with our cuisine.”
“ETHNIC” FOOD The traditional food of India has been widely appreciated for its fabulous use of herbs and spices. Indian cuisine is known for its large assortment of dishes. The cooking style varies from region to region. India is quite famous for its diverse multi cuisine available in a large number of restaurants and hotel resorts, which is reminiscent of unity in diversity. Indian cuisine consists of a wide variety of regional and traditional cuisines native to the Indian subcontinent. Given the range of diversity in soil type, climate, culture, ethnic groups, and occupations, these cuisines vary substantially from each other and use locally available spices, herbs, vegetables, and fruits. Indian cuisine is always connected to emotions and cultural contexts. Indian food is categorically delicious: its flavors are complex, oscillating between sweet, savory, and spicy; its textures meld creamy sauces with doughy breads and tender meat and vegetables to make the slop of dreams. It’s a divine synthesis that is aromatic and sophisticated without being bougie. An average Indian dish includes at least seven ingredients, most of which do not contain overlapping flavours. Indian food is most popular for its diversity. The variety of foods, spices and dishes that are native to India makes Indian food one of the most wholesome foods in the world.
“The variety of foods, spices and dishes that are native to India makes Indian food one of the most wholesome foods in the world.”
CREDITS INDIAN FOOD - A HISTORICAL COMPANION. K.T.ACHAYA THE DIPLOMAT TIMES OF INDIA TRANSACTIONS IN TASTE - MANPREET K. JANEJA, BOMBAY DUCK DESIGNS
INDIAN FOOD AND ITS IDENTITY