FORK ON THE ROAD

LAKE DORA SUSHI & SAKE

STELLAR SUSHI, SUPERB SERVICE

STORY: SHEMIR WILES PHOTOS: FRED LOPEZ

There are two fi rm requirements for a great sushi place: It has to serve fresh, quality seafood and it has to be willing to create some daring fl avor combinations. Lake Dora Sushi & Sake in Tavares encompasses both these truths, plus more, making it one of the best sushi restaurants in the Golden Triangle area.

Owner and sushi chef Takashi Kobayashi and his wife Fumiko present an impressive roster of specialty rolls for those with a sense of adventure. They also offer a nice selection of traditional sashimi and sushi rolls for die-hard purists. However, if sushi isn’t your thing, Lake Dora boasts a diverse menu of delectable Japanese appetizers and entrées.

To start, I suggest ordering the agedashi tofu. These lightly dusted tofu cubes are deep fried and served with tempura sauce and fresh ginger. The

warm tofu melts in your mouth and absorbs the wonder tang of the tempura sauce. Not all agedashi is the same as fl avors tend to vary from restaurant to restaurant, but I can say emphatically that Lake Dora Sushi & Sake has the best agedashi I’ve ever tasted.

If tofu is a bit too outside the box, try an order of wonderful tuna tataki, which is sliced tuna that’s been fl ash seared and served with a tangy ponzu sauce, or a dish of perfectly steamed edamame as an appetizer. And when it comes to drinks, I would encourage diners to skip the traditional hot sake or plum wine and try some premium cold sake. On my recent visit, I had a bottle of junmai unfi ltered cold sake. It was slightly sweet in taste, but very light and refreshing.

For my meal, I decided to stick with sushi and ordered tuna (maguro), salmon (sake), and yellowtail (hamachi) sashimi. Sashimi is slices of fi sh or meat served raw without rice. All three were extremely fresh, which is easy to discern from sashimi that has been frozen. Previously frozen fi sh usually lacks the rich tastes of true, fresh sashimi. My favorite was the tuna, which was fi rm, meaty, and buttery, and to my surprise, I really enjoyed the yellowtail, which was milder than the other two but still high in fl avorful fats.

When it came time to pick a few maki rolls, I ordered the Lake Jem and New York rolls. The Lake Jem roll is stuffed with broiled eel and cucumber and comes with raw tuna and teriyaki sauce on top. To me, eel, or unagi, has a similar texture to chicken with an almost swordfi sh-like savor. It’s a good roll for people who enjoy a more conventional take on their sushi. The New York, however, is on the opposite end of the spectrum. It’s a cooked roll, so there’s no raw fi sh. It’s great for sushi beginners because it features two familiar and safe selections: imitation crabmeat and scallops. This roll is indulgent, as it comes topped with the cooked scallops swimming in a creamy, slightly cheesy sauce. It’s fi ne to eat alone, or with a bit of wasabi and soy sauce; the choice is really yours.

I also sampled the LA and Snow Bird rolls. The LA has an imitation crab, cream cheese, and cucumber center and is topped with raw tuna, broiled eel, and roe (masago). It’s a scrumptious, solid roll that I could see myself ordering again. However, I really liked the Snow Bird roll because of the slight crunch from the tempura shrimp in the middle, along with the velvety cream cheese and the wonderful broiled eel, avocado, and teriyaki topping.

Lake Dora is a great place for a quiet evening with friends, and the hospitality is sincere. As an added treat, try to grab a seat at the sushi bar and see Chef Kobayashi in action. If anything, you’ll gain a deeper appreciation for the skill that goes into sushi making and understand why Lake Dora is a genuinely great sushi place.

5 FORKS

(OUT OF POSSIBLE 5) LAKE DORA SUSHI & SAKE

227 E. Main St., Tavares, 352.343.6313 www.lakedorasushi.com

FORK REPORT:

Casual dining $$//Seated immediately (early evening)//Wait for meal: 15 to 20 minutes (expect a wait with sushi since it is made to order)

DELICIOUS STARTERS ($2-$10.25):

Uni Shooter (fresh sea urchin with a quail egg, salmon roe and ponzu sauce); Agedashi Tofu (lightly dusted fried tofu cubes served in tempura sauce and fresh ginger); Beef Negimaki (thin ribeye steak rolled around scallions with teriyaki sauce). ENTREES: ($8-$49): Soft Shell Crab Dinner (two tempura-battered soft shell crabs served with sweet potato and onion); Unagi Don (broiled eel over a bed of rice); Party Platter (25 pieces of sushi, four rolls, and 10 pieces of sashimi).

HOW FORK ON THE ROAD WORKS

Our reviewers are objective and unbiased. This is not a paid feature. Our reviewer makes one unannounced visit and we pay for our meals.

LA PALMA MEXICAN GRILL

STORY: MICHELLE CLARK PHOTOS: FRED LOPEZ

Everyone has his or her go-to for Southof-the-border delights, but all Mexican food is not created equal, or more accurately, served equally. Some make their home in holes-in-the-wall —purist places that don’t believe in sour cream. Others hail the California burrito and see tacos as a creative expression. La Palma in the North Lake Plaza is somewhere in the middle. They have no shortage of authenticity, while still offering unique choices.

When I fi rst walked into La Palma on a Saturday night, I was embraced by the sound of music. A six-piece mariachi band made the place feel alive, and everything was well lit. It felt very Hemingway-esque.

The menu had some familiar fare, such as fl autas, enchiladas, and fajitas; however, there were also some nontraditional dishes. A Cajun burrito and Cajun soup are not something you normally see on a Mexican menu, while California tacos seem like a fair jump. After trying several of these options, I can say their titles are deliciously deceptive. The Cajun soup

had a white base instead of a red and didn’t have the traditional Cajun spices you’d expect. It was more like corn chowder with shrimp and crawfi sh, but it was hearty, creamy, and now on my I’ve-gotto-have-this list.

The California tacos come with a choice of carne asada, carnitas, or marinated pork. All that tops them are chopped onions and cilantro. These are don’t-need-no-mess tacos! Rice, beans, and guacamole do come on the side for those who fi nd comfort in their condiments. I suggest having the carne asada; the steak is well seasoned.

The best parts of the meal were the kick-starter and the seal-the-deal dessert. I started with a margarita because, after all, it’s the true test of authenticity. The classic margarita may be a favorite with tequila fans, but there are other fl avors for the more hesitant, such as myself. For example, the guava margarita is sure to please.

If you’re looking for something sweet to round out the night, you can’t go wrong with a fried ice cream. It’s served as an individual scoop in a fried tortilla bowl, so you might want to get your own. You can share, but why would you want to?

LA PALMA MEXICAN GRILL

1690 Citrus Blvd., Leesburg 352.323.1444 www.lapalmagrill.com Open daily: 11 a.m. – 9 p.m.

SEAFOOD ON THE RIVER

No swamp meat, but the gator is fresh!

STORY: LEIGH NEELY PHOTOS: FRED LOPEZ

My husband and I enjoyed a scenic drive on a lazy Sunday afternoon to have an early dinner at Blackwater Inn Restaurant & Lounge in Astor. Our gracious host put us in what he termed “the balcony” (a booth with a step up), where we had two views of the St. John’s River (one out the window and one in the mirrors). It was the perfect place to watch boats slowly cruise by, some with fi shermen and others just sightseeing.

Though the menu featured alligator bites and Blackwater fi sh fi ngers, we opted to begin our meal with smoked fi sh dip. My husband and I are big fans of this smoked whitefi sh on crackers. Our server suggested we squeeze the lemon on top, spread it on the crackers, and add a touch of hot sauce for great fl avor. She was right!

Next, we visited the salad bar with its array of fresh, crisp vegetables and side salads. If you opt not to make your own, you can order a Caesar or classic garden salad. I love making my own with the sweet honey mustard dressing.

The entrees were easy; I feasted on the seafood platter and my husband had catfi sh. The shrimp, oysters, scallops, and tilapia were lightly battered and fried perfectly. I always think about getting my seafood broiled or blackened, but being Southern, I love it fried, and I was not disappointed. The homemade tartar sauce was subtle but tasty on the tilapia and the cocktail sauce complemented the shrimp and scallops impeccably. I’m not always a fan of oysters, but they were great, too. I sampled my husband’s catfi sh and it was delectable. We had baked potatoes to round out our meals and the hushpuppies were great. Filets and sirloins are also on the menu along with prime rib.

Dessert was sharing a piece of key lime pie with just the right amount of sweet-tart fl avor and luscious whipped cream.

The drive is relaxing, the meals are memorable, and the staff is gracious and attentive. I suggest you visit Blackwater Inn Restaurant & Lounge and William’s Landing, and if you have a boat, you can dock it easily right in front of the restaurant.

BLACKWATER INN RESTAURANT

55716 Front St., Astor 352.759.2802 Tuesday – Thursday 4:30–9 p.m. Friday 4:30–10 p.m. Sunday 11:30 a.m.–9 p.m.