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endless Gulf waters. The 15 miles to Navarre Beach offer pure riding pleasure along the Gulf Islands National Seashore. You may want to pull over for a swim.
A bridge at Navarre connects to the mainland and Highway 98, your main road from here on out. Low and level, you ride into the heart of Fort Walton Beach and into a type of time machine. The small hill opposite a row of eclectic shops is an Indian mound that was the center of religious, political, and social activity thousands of years ago. A small museum showcases Native American artifacts, weaponry, and information about the tribes. A high bridge leaps over sparkling waters, and from the road you’ll see the Gulfarium, an aquatic attraction, next to shops and restaurants. Assuming it’s near lunchtime, there are multiple choices for dining with a waterfront view. Even more impressive is the view from the pier that reaches a quarter-mile into the Gulf and frames the coastline’s wide, arcing sweep. Buy a pass to walk the pier or stop by the small bait and tackle stand for everything you need to grab the catch of the day.
The coast is clear
FWB’s twin town, Destin (“Florida’s Luckiest Fishing Village”), is a charming place with marinas, resorts, restaurants, attractions, and soft sugar sands. While you may want to stay over, ride a few more miles, navigating unwelcome congestion through the planned community of Sandestin.
Ahead, drop south from 98 to hook up with Highway 30 and then 30A to Grayton Beach, a secluded community frozen in time. Cottages and seaside shacks are largely hidden beneath a canopy of oaks. There’s a downtown, but not by much, and people live here because they can’t imagine living anywhere else. The Old Florida feel is everywhere, and is emphasized when you enter Grayton Beach State Park.
The pristine 2,200-acre park’s sand dunes and sea oats open to brilliant views of the Gulf, and here is where you’ll fi nd one of your best lodging options—fully equipped cabins just a short walk from the protected shore. Sleeping six and affordably priced, they’re a perfect place to rest before another day of riding.
Day Two: Grayton Beach to Apalachicola
Back on 30A, you cruise past planned communities with recurring frequency. Though each lacks Old Florida authenticity, you’ll probably stop in Seaside, the standin for Jim Carrey’s surreal hometown in the movie, “The Truman Show.”
Back on the road, 30A returns to Highway 98 just west of Panama City Beach. Traffi c here can be stubborn, especially along Front Beach Road, yet the powdery sands and clear, crystalline waters are energizing. You’ll need all the inner strength you can muster to handle the traffi c in Panama City. However, once you clear it and reach the grounds of Tyndall Air Force Base, you return to tranquil riding. Like Eglin Air Force Base, Tyndall protects a huge swath of coastline and forests that makes this stretch of road a great place to throttle through a straightaway of pines.
When you reach Mexico Beach, a sleepy beachfront town hitched to the border of the Central Time Zone, the community kick-starts a nearly unbroken chain of fi ne riding and interesting places. After crossing into Gulf County, Port St. Joe is well worth a stop: fi rst, for the Florida Constitution Convention State Park, where delegates framed and signed the fi rst constitution in 1838; second, for a retrocool shopping district refreshingly absent of chain stores; and third, for a ride out to sea.
Cape San Blas wraps its arm around St. Joseph Bay, and from the mainland to the cape, you ride along the waterfront before threading the needle between the bayside and Gulf on a narrow strip of land. Coming in from the north, the road curves in before sweeping up from the south to T.H. Stone Memorial St. Joseph State Park. If you love the outdoors, three miles of paved parked roads are notched with pullouts, beach/bay access points, and nature trails leading to quiet coves and inlets. The road ends with several miles of hiking trails going to remote campsites on the northern tip of the cape. Far from civilization, this is the rare place to experience Florida circa 1880. Traveling in a group? As in Grayton Beach, eight waterfront cabins are outfi tted with kitchens, fi replaces, bathrooms, heat, and A/C for around $100 per night.
As the ride nears its end, two more highlights await. From Cape San Blas, 30A leads south to Indian Pass, a place you may not know but will never forget. In a former Depression-era fi lling station/general store, the Indian Pass Raw Bar is a motorcycle-friendly destination serving fresh-from-theGulf oysters. A few miles farther south, Indian Pass Campground is yet another throwback to Old Florida, with a general store, campsites, and a ferry that goes to the undisturbed world of St. Vincent National Wildlife Refuge. You can camp here, on Cape San Blas, or fi nd a room in Port St. Joe. Or you can press on to Apalachicola, the cotton/ timber/oyster town that is now a resort destination of bed-and-breakfasts, art galleries, and fi ne restaurants.
Few places in Florida capture a feeling of nostalgia like Apalachicola, especially at night when you park your bike, walk the quiet streets, and tune into silence broken only by the cooling pings of your engine. You’ll pass historic buildings that are now microbreweries and boutiques and sense such quiet and tranquility that you feel even further from the rush of the modern world.
Your motorcycle brought you here. The Emerald Coast takes you back in time.
Survivor reunion
The InterCommunity Cancer Center celebrated its sixth annual Survivor’s Reunion in November. This special event celebrated life and the many cancer survivors in the community. Guests enjoyed live entertainment, delicious food, and drinks.
PHOTOS: RON VANDEVANDER
Wayne Sailors and Deborah Reagan
Marcia and Chris Malachowski
“Joe G” and “Bear”
Addison and Mackenzie Reagan
Front: Jerry and Alice Garfinkel Rear: Robert and Maxine Dieterle
Recognition for work well done
The Leesburg Partnership held its annual Awards and Installation Dinner in September. The Main Street District organization was created in 1994 and looked back at this year’s event on many celebrations, the work of countless volunteers, and the years of service for employees. The event was held at the Opera House in Downtown Leesburg.
PHOTOS: NICOLE HAMEL
George and Oksana Hagerty Janet Galbreath
Patrick and Suzy O’Donell Michelle and Jason Churchill Guy and Dell Ross
Joe Shipes Executive Vice President and Amy Painter center for the arts liaison Chaz Johnson, Kristan Chancey, Mariah Delgado and Julie Eld
Lyndsi Johnson, Connie Frady, Dee Ann Gilson, Janet Noack
Betsy Applebaum, Survivor and Author. (Guest Speaker)
Celebrating with a kiss
Laurel Steele, Kate Lewis and Tracy Childress
The Ladies in Philanthropy orchestrated an exciting luncheon in October at Mission Inn Grand Ballroom. This luncheon was to celebrate the women who have kissed cancer goodbye! Speaker Betsy Applebaum shared her inspirational personal story and what the support of family and friends meant to her. While the ladies enjoyed lunch, DoggiBags Boutique had models sharing current fashions.
PHOTOS: NICOLE HAMEL
Laurel Steele, Kate Lewis and Tracy Childress.jpg Gwendolyn Hayes Winner of a raff le
Leigh Neely and Theresa Campbell, Akers Media Group
Nicki, Kayli and JoDelle
This chili is hot!
In November, Gator Harley hosted the Gator Harley Chili Cook Off Benefit with Lake Firefighters. There was an open division, for locals who wanted to show off their chili skills and a restaurant division. The open divisions winner won a $500 cash prize and the restaurant division winner won a trophy and bragging rights!
PHOTOS: DONDI COTE
Ted Johnston and Beth Freeman
Sue Colton and Ranlaynn Blanchette
Lisa Cunningham and Rachel Malik Eddy Lee and John Coulter
Kathy Haviland, McKinzie Malloy, McKayla Malloy, David Malloy and Elvin Rodrigez Steve & Suzy Maerriman
