AKITA JET QUARTERLY
THE AKITAN
SUMMER ISSUE
9.28.18
THE AKITAN SUMMER 2018
We are always looking for new content and ideas for The Akitan. Don’t hesitate to contact us at akitajoho@gmail.com if you might be interested in becoming an Akitan contributor!
Cover photo by Priscilla Chong
CONTENTS WELCOME 2018 JETS .......... PAGE 5 FINDING HOKKAIDO IN AKITA .......... PAGE 7 A YEAR IN REVIEW .......... PAGE 15 DANCING MY WAY INTO THE COMMUNITY .......... PAGE 19 SUMMER FESTIVALS OF TOHOKU.......... PAGE 25 SUMMER READS .......... PAGE 37 GUEST BOOK REVIEW .......... PAGE 46 SUMMER RECIPES .......... PAGE 51 CHARITY AKITA ANNOUNCEMENT .......... PAGE 57 FUJI ROCK FESTIVAL 2018 .......... PAGE 61 SEEING A LOT OF JAPAN IN A SHORT TIME .......... PAGE 67 FALL IN LOVE WITH FALL .......... PAGE 83 UPCOMING EVENTS .......... PAGE 89
MEET THE AKITAN STAFF pimms hubbell Director of Publications
Hey folks! I’m Pimms, and I’m in my 4th year in Akita. You’ll probably come to know me as the PA working at the Education center. I love eating food, going on cyling trips, visiting fetivals, eating more food, and relaxing in onsen. I hope you enjoy Akita as much as I do.
priscilla chong Editor & Creative Director
Hi everyone! I’m Priscilla, a 3rd year from Ugo Town. I lack self control and have a serious snack problem. Fun thing about living alone, no one will know if you eat a tub of ice cream in one night. I love food, coffee, skincare, and a good forest onsen.
reza danesh pajooh Editor of Book Reviews
I’m Reza Danesh-Pajooh, a fourth year living in Yokote. My hobbies are avoiding people, staying indoors, and making plans while secretly hoping that someone will cancel so I don’t have to go. Surprisingly, I’ve been told I’m a pleasant person.
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THE AKITAN
Follow us @akita-jet
CALLING ALL PHOTOGRAPHERS! Hi! My name is Kristina Tan, and I am the Manager for the Akitan’s Instagram. This year, I’m hoping to introduce the greater JET community – as well as fellow local JETs, to the wonderful landscapes and people of Akita Prefecture. I also hope to introduce everyone to great recommendations of things to eat and do! I would love, however, to get help on this project! For anyone who has an interest in photography and wants to share information about their local haunts while establishing their profile in a higher platform, please contact me at chiayun.tan@gmail.com. I would love to get contributing photographers!
The Akita Instagram needs you!
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Arcadia Park (Ugo Town), Priscilla Chong
THE AKITAN
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From the editor
Welcome 2018 JE O
ften, we are asked by those around us “Why did you move to Japan?” and I can articulate my thoughts enough to give a coherent answer. Instead of truthfully try into all the feelings that brought me here, I go with the standard “I’ve been interested in
long time”. Now this answer isn’t false in the slightest, but it doesn’t grasp the extent of w for me to be able to live in such an amazing country. Being interested in a country is like falling in love at first sight, it’s exciting, everything is your eyes. Moving and deciding to live there however is a whole other ball game. It’s like
relationship, some days your life here makes you feel like everything is right in the world. Th
month the culture shock can smack you right in the face and you eat tacos every night for tw
heart becomes attached to the culture and people, but at the same time you feel as if this is a tr
of your youth. It’s an experience that will change you forever. It will alter your perspective of t how we build relationships, test your patience, teach you independence, and become part of
To the 2018 JETs, the difficult part is over, you all have taken a leap of faith and moved across the wo
JET community would like to welcome you to the start of your journey. It’s time to start exploring yo
We are excited to share our love of Akita with you, so feel free to ask us about our lives here. This is
in your life you will live in this place with these people. Your time here will pass by in the blink of an some memories and friendships that will stay with you for a lifetime. Welcome to Akita!
Priscilla Chong, Editor and Cre
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THE AKITAN
ETs
n never quite ying to delve n Japan for a
what it means
wonderful in a committed
hen that same
wo weeks. Your
ransitory part
the world and your identity.
orld. The Akita
our new home.
s the only time
n eye, so make
eative Director
Nishimonai Bon Odori, Priscilla Chong
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finding hokkaido in akita: Where does your mind wander at the mention of summer flowers in Japan? For most people, myself included, images of Hokkaido’s rolling fields bathed in sunshine come to mind. The northmost island of Japan is famous throughout the world for their flower fields and ice cream in summer.
7 Nishime sunflower maze, Priscilla Chong
THE AKITAN
a guide to local summer flowers But if you’re anything like me, finding the time, money or nenkyu from midJuly to early August is near impossible. Lucky for us, Akita is brimming with nature. I’m here to let you all in on some of our hidden gems, bringing the flower fields of Hokkaido, right here to home.
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finding hokkaido in akita
Unshoji (Oga), Priscilla Chong
雲昌寺（うんしょうじ ) 〒010-06
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THE AKITAN
Unshoji ‘Hydrangea’ Temple Nestled in the tiny coastal town of Kitaura on the Oga Peninsula a small temple sits on a hill overlooking the port. For most of the year, this small temple goes unnoticed, quietly bringing calm into the lives of local residents. However, for 1 month people come flooding in from all over Akita and beyond. Every year in late June over 1200 hydrangea plants come into full bloom. The stunning imagery that appears during this time is not to be missed. Waves of blue petals spill over the temple walls, connecting a sea of flowers to the Japan Sea. A sight like no other, the temple is an inspiring location for all day dreamers, flower enthusiasts, and avid photographers. The temple’s deputy head priest first started cultivating the hydrangea garden 16 years ago from a single plant. As beautiful as they may be to display in your home, cutting and picking the fallen flowers is not permitted, as the priest believes the flowers should bloom and wither as nature decides. Many of you
683 Oga-shi Kitaura-Kitaura Kitaura 57
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finding hokkaido in akita
Misato Lavender Fields Widely used for its calming and relaxing effects lavender has long been held a holy grail flower in aromatherapy. What better way to destress than to immerse yourself in some lavender fields surrounded by Hydrangea tea, Priscilla Chong
mountains. Hokkaido’s Furano might be world famous, but you don’t need to
may not realize, but hydrangeas come in a
travel far to experience this hidden gem
variety of colors. In addition to the classic
in Akita. Located in Misato in Senboku
blue, you can see white, pink, and purple
area, the park is only a 30 minute drive
flowers depending on the acidity of the
from Omagari Station. Flowering season
soil they grow in. Hydrangeas or “ajisai”
runs from late June to late July. However,
originated in Japan. Due to their need for
I recommend visiting during the festival
an abundance of water in order to bloom,
period in the first half of July to make the
they came to symbolize the rainy season.
most of this destination. The park grows
The hydrangea festival is held at Unshoji Temple throughout June, with weekends being especially busy. Entry to the temple grounds during the blooming season is 300 yen. A small donation to support the continued cultivation of the flowers. Try the lightly floral and citrus hydrangea iced tea. The blue tea turns purple with the addition of lemon juice. You can also enjoy blue colored baba-hera!
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Lavender ice cream, Priscilla Chong
THE AKITAN
美郷町ラベンダー園 〒019-1502 Senboku-gun Misato-cho Senya Odaino 1
Lavender garden, Priscilla Chong
seven varieties of lavender in the park. I
the small store sells dried lavender, mists,
was amazed to see white lavender, a local
and other items infused with the oil. But if
variety that was discovered 5 years ago
you are like me and love a bunch of dried
called ‘Misato yukihana’. It is so special
flowers hanging in your home, it will only
that it was given in a flower exchange to
cost you 300 yen to pick your own bunch
Nakafurano lavender garden in Hokkaido.
of stems straight from the field. The staff
Thanks to this agreement we can also
will even give you drying instructions to
now see Furano’s famous deep purple
take home. Before you leave, don’t forget
lavender ‘hayasaki’ blooming in Akita. If
to try the lavender ice cream, creamy,
you wish to take home this sweet scent,
floral, but not overpowering it is a delight!
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finding hokkaido in akita
Nishime Sunflower Maze Ever since I saw it for the first time as a child, I have always loved the garden scene from Alice in Wonderland. The garden is filled with giant flowers standing tall and proud. Unlike Alice, who clearly didn’t appreciate the snide remarks from something that would normally be much smaller than her. The idea of being dwarfed by an overgrown, oversized flower garden has always sparked my imagination. I got my wish to some extent visiting the sunflower fields in Nishime, Yurihonjo. The giant sunflowers stood at
a similar height to me (168cm) with the petals wider than my face. I could almost picture a face appearing on one and giving me sass like those from Wonderland. These fields are not an official garden, but a plantation for the purpose of making sunflower oil. Located across the road from the Nishime Michi-no-eki, the fields are free to view and wander from late July to mid August. The contrast of yellow against the blue sky and green mountains is a photographer’s dream.
Look
at the carpet of yellow
from
the
temporary viewing platform
or
get
lost in the maze in the opposite field. When you’re done, head on over to the michi-no-eki
for
some baumkuchen and softcream. Sunflower maze, Priscilla Chong
道の駅 にしめ 〒018-0604 Yurihonjo-shi Nishime-cho Numata Shinmichishita 1112-2
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THE AKITAN
(lopposite) Baumkuchen, Priscilla Chong Akita-inu rice field art (Nairikusen line), Andrea Danko
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a year in review
a year in review sandra syt-mui pang
Summer
can be a weird time of year.
Number 2 was to document my time here.
It’s when we have to say goodbye to our
Having done these two things, I was lucky
friends, who are leaving and hello to the
enough to able to experience as much as
new people, who arrive. It’s also the time
possible and to make a video that I could
of year, where we’re just trying to enjoy
look back on.
the beautiful weather and not die from the heat and humidity.
So for me; living in Japan has been an interesting experience. There have been
This summer at the end of July marked
many wonderful moments, but also some
my first year on JET. Which feels surreal,
confusing or frustrating ones.
but like everyone says “Time goes by more quickly as you get older.”
Some of my favorite memories include hanging out in a small bar in Golden Gai
Before coming to Japan, I decided I
during Tokyo orientation; the farmstay we
wanted to do two main things. Number 1
did in Odate, where we learnt to make
was to say “yes” to every opportunity and
kiritanpo, but was also filmed for the news
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THE AKITAN
and experienced our first bit of snow in
We always had a laugh together and
Akita. As well as all the trips, that I’ve
went on many adventures. It showed me
done, but my favorite has to be the road
how important it is to have a good set of
trip that Saijel and I did during Golden
friends, especially when you are living in
Week. We saw snow in May, drove through
a foreign country.
many mountains, experienced buddhist hell at Osorezan, climbed a thousand steps at Yamadera and much more. Coming on to JET, I never thought that I would make friends that I was so close to
“it gave me the opportunity to see them doing something they are passionate about”
that they felt like family. I’ve been really
School has also been wild. The teachers
lucky and met some wonderful people
are so nice and my students are great, even
from the start. They became my Akita
though sometimes we don’t understand
family and having to say goodbye to some
each other. But they have definitely been
of them was really hard.
a highlight during my time in Japan. They draw weird pictures, which make me smile and we joke around about the stupidest of things. However I think one of my highlights is definitely cheering them on during Chusotai because it gave me the opportunity to see them doing something they are passionate about and
Akita JETs, Sandra Syt-Mui Pang
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a year in review
seeing how proud they are to represent our school. My students bring happiness into my life and I always look forward to seeing them, so I feel that I made the right decision to do this second year. If you want to see what I experienced during my first year, you can check out my ‘1 Second a day’ video below. However my final piece of advice is:
“Be open to new experiences and have fun!”
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https://youtu.be/turZaopABqk
THE AKITAN
18 Nishimonai Bon Odori (Ugo), Nathan Finch
dan
19 Nishimonai Bon Odori (Ugo), Priscilla Chong
THE AKITAN
ncing my way into the community priscilla chong
What
will people remember about you when you leave
Akita?
What impression will remain in the memories of your community? I never thought about these questions until I moved to Japan, to the small town of Ugo. I started thinking about not just what will be remembered about me, but how I want to be remembered. As JET participants we come from various cultural and educational backgrounds, yet we are all put in one box called ALT (or CIR/ SEA). People tend to view us as temporary. Given that on average most JETs only spend 1-2 years in Japan I can understand why it is tiring to put effort into building relationships with someone who you may never see again. Foreigners living as an expat will face these same challenges and work through them in different ways. However, this shouldn’t deter anyone from getting involved in their local community. I decided in my first year I didn’t want to be remembered as just another ALT. So with my limited language skills I got involved in a different way, through dance.
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dancing my way into the community
nearby Nishimonai Hosenji Temple. The locals believe the origins of the festival began with a dance performed to honor the fallen lord Onodera Shigemichi. At some point this combined with an existing harvest prayer dance and the festival as we know it was born. The story, dances, and music were traditionally passed down through oral instruction up until a 2016 dance performance, Priscilla Chong
few years ago. I have never really been a ‘joiner’
I have now danced in my town’s festival,
let alone someone comfortable with
the Nishimonai Bon Odori for 3 years. The
performing. My hobbies have always
Nishimonai Bon Odori was designated an intangible folk cultural property in 1985 and is known as one of Japan’s top 3 bon odori festivals. Dancers clad in handdyed shibori yukata and hanui patchwork kimono dance in unison along a street lit by small bonfires. The dancing itself is mesmerizing to watch, but what makes this festival different to others are the straw hats and black hoods dancers wear to cover their faces. The black hoods known as hikosa zukin give a ghostly image and are said to represent spirits from the 2017 Nishimonai Bon Odori, Priscilla Chong
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THE AKITAN
2018 Nishimonai Bon Odori performers (Ugo), Priscilla Chong
consisted of something I could do
festival, gave me a significant connection
alone, and in private. So how did I end
to the town. It was from this point on,
up dancing in the town festival, at school events and elsewhere? For once, I just said ‘yes’. I took 1 week of intensive training
"I was not just a teacher anymore, but a part of my town."
that I felt I was not just a teacher anymore, but a part of my town. The festival runs for 3 nights and features 2 songs and
in my first year, and oh boy was it strict.
dances. The music is lively and features
Every day I would having my hands and
spirited lyrics, this is contrasted by graceful
feet adjusted to the millimeter. The dances
dances and image of ghosts passing by.
are learnt from elementary school, and it
The performance runs continuously for
is traditionally performed only by locals.
4 hours, with dancers able to freely leave
The fact that I was welcomed to join the
and join the procession at any point.
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dancing my way into the community
There are many ways to communicate
Some day in the future I will have the
that don’t require verbal understanding
experience, knowledge, and authentic
such as music, dance, sports, and the arts.
costume to bring this cultural treasure
3 years ago, I would never have imagined
out from the inaka and into the world.
that the strongest memory I have of my
Sometimes all it takes is a little interest,
life in Japan would be dancing. Yet here
an open mind, and a lot of courage to
I am in my third year, finally getting my
change from being just the ALT to an
own bon odori yukata personally tailored.
active member of your community.
...
Nishimonai Bon Odori (Ugo), Priscilla Chong
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THE AKITAN
24 Iwate Sansa Odori (Morioka), Priscilla Chong
summer festiva
Blessed by warm balmy nights from late June through to earl
and go travelling. Akita spends most of the year hidden be
summer is the rare opportunity to get your shoulders out, ta
rooftop bars. Tohoku summer festivals are a quintessential
lived here for many years, or just arrived, there is somethin
community, where you can get involved, or events where th
The options are plenty, and the choice is yours. Take a look a
25 Summer fireworks in Akita, Pimms Hubbell
THE AKITAN
als of tohoku
ly September, summer is a delightful time to spend outdoors
eneath piles of snow, or with a constant chill in the air, so
ake an evening walk, and have some drinks at one of the few
l experience for anyone living in Japan. Whether you have
ng on offer for everyone to enjoy. Intimate festivals in your
housands of people from around Japan come to experience.
at some of the highlights of the 2018 summer festival season.
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27and opposite) (above Hanawa Bayashi Festival, Andrea Danko
THE AKITAN
hanawa bayashi (kazuno)
andrea danko
After visiting some crowded summer festivals in recent years in Kyoto, Osaka, Aomori, Akita, I visited Hanawa bayashi this August. Hanawa Bayashi is a festival where decorated floats play lively music until midnight.The 10 floats might look alike, but they are certainly not the same! You can see, hear and feel the difference when they parade in the square. Since the festival runs all night, sometimes they need to change the musicians. It was fun to see that they do not stop for even a moment, some drummers jump out, and the next ones are already in to continue. At day time you can have a closer look at each festival car, then in the evening you can easily follow them during the parade. Even the main attraction site is not that crowded. There is a corridor around the square to take pics from several view points, and seiza seating for 2000yen. If interested in a lively, colorful parade festival which is still mostly visited by the locals, visit Hanawa bayashi soon before the crowds arrive. It is listed as a Unesco intangible cultural heritage and increasing in popularity. Do not watch the videos, go and feel it!
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kakunodate yamabuttsuke 29
The Kakunodate festival is more commonly known as
the
'yamabuttsuke'
event. It is a famous early fall festival held from September 7 - 9 in Kakunodate,
Senboku.
Large decorated floats are
pulled
around
Kakunodate's
samurai
streets by groups of men. Young
women
dance
on top of the floats, and like all festivals in Japan,
everyone
has
been tapping into the nihonshu
since
early
on. The highlight of this festival when floats enter the same street they must negotiate for right of way. Most of the time being hot-blooded youths, this fails and thus they must charge at full strength into one another until one float gives in.
THE AKITAN
30 Kakunodate Yamabuttsuke Festival, Pimms Hubbell
31 Sansa Odori (Morioka), Priscilla Chong
THE AKITAN
sansa odori (morioka, iwate) The
most
visually
and
musically
rewarding festival I attended this year. I can’t believe I didn’t attend this festival sooner. The sansa dance festival in Morioka City, Iwate is the largest taiko drumming performance in Japan. The festival is a fast paced, colorful parade of groups adorned in matching yukata, flower headgear, and unique accessories. The performers spin, jump, shout, and dance all whilst playing an individual taiko strapped to their body. Quite an amazing feat if you ask me. There is even a section where the public is free to join in and dance. Held in the first week of August over a couple of days, the city really comes alive on the weekend. For full enjoyment book a hotel and stay the night.
priscilla chong 32
summer festivals
akita k This was my third year attending kanto festival and the skills of the performers never cease to amaze me. The poles can reach 12m in height and weigh up to 50kg. It takes an incredible amount of strength and focus to be able to balance the poles at such a height. Let alone the fact that they are balancing them on their forehead, palms, and hips. This is a must-see festival for anyone living in Akita. As the parade moves down the chuo-dori in Akita city, you can enjoy the sound of taiko and supportive “dokkoisho, dokkoisho�. Get in close to the action and be in awe as elementary school children perform stunts we can only dream of achieving. Make sure you are paying attention! It is common for the poles to suddenly crash into front row spectators.
priscilla chong 33
THE AKITAN
anto festival
Akita Kanto Festival, Pimms Hubbell
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yuzawa edo
It was unfortunate that we visited Yuzawa’s
a terrible rainstorm, but it didn’t take awa
personal delight comes from seeing everyo every summer, but the painted lanterns
painted for a Princess homesick for Kyoto
many softly glowing lanterns, with their d
women, and dinosaurs. (Okay, only one ha
..
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Edoro Tanabata (Yuzawa), Priscilla Chong
THE AKITAN
oro tanabata
’s Tanabata Edoro Festival this year during
ay from its charm. Admittedly, much of my
one in the small community come together are also an impressive sight. Originally
o, it’s always pleasant to stroll between the
depictions of dreamy Edo scenes, elegant
as dinosaurs, but it’s clearly the best one.)
..
pimms hubbell
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summer reads
Summer reads by reza danesh-pajooh
The Left Hand of Darkness
of the many things about this planet that
Ursula K. Le Guin
befuddles our main character, Genly Ai, who serves as an ambassador of sorts
A tour de force. This novel penned
for the pan-galactic human alliance, the
by the late Ursula K. Le Guin is beyond
Ekumen. His mission: to convince a world
compare. Hands-down one of the best
leader of the planet to join the alliance.
books that I have read in years. The original premise of this science fiction
story centers on a planet that experiences
to its utmost limits when Genly Ai, naive
almost perpetual winter. It is inhabited by
to the customs and cultures of “Winter�
humans that have evolved in such a way so
finds himself at the center of various
that there no longer exists gender or sex
political plots, quasi-religious rituals,
in the conventional way we understand it.
and a bond of kinship with one of the
The humans of Winter breed by entering
natives of the planet, which evolves into
a kind of rut, and both partners are
something a little more or less akin to love.
randomly assigned a sex for the purpose
In between, the reader is confronted with
of procreation. After the act is completed,
various themes and issues that, despite
they return to their genderless existence.
how obviously alien the people of Winter
All of the societies shown in the story
are, can only be construed as uniquely
have special rules in regards to this
human: such as the search for meaning
unique form of procreation, and it is one
in life, spirituality, dualism, the feeling of
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This simple premise is stretched
THE AKITAN
isolation due to cultural differences in
In the Miso Soup
your new environment, even the value of
Ryu Murakami
patriotism and finding the ambiguous line between loving one’s nation and customs,
and complete rejection and hatred of The
many people are familiar with. Even those
Other.
in the know often refer to him as “the
Ryu Murakami is not an author that
other Murakami” due to his lack of star
Le Guin crafted this story with
power when compared to the author of
vision and purpose. Her descriptions are
“1Q84.” But as I worked my way through
breathtaking and her prose reads like
Ryu Murakami’s bibliography, I found
poetry at points. Instead of giving a static
myself drawn more and more towards
story about Genly Ai and his travels on
his literary style and prose. At his best,
this strange planet, she inserts anecdotes
Murakami is a poignant satirist, critiquing
and oral traditions from Winter in
the idiosyncrasies and culture of the
between chapters to better acquaint the
bubble/post-bubble eras. At his worst,
reader with the culture and mindset of
he’s a pulp fiction author. But at whatever
the planet’s peoples. For a science fiction
extreme his work falls under, the thing
novel that leans more towards the harder
I’ve come to love about Murakami’s novels
side of the spectrum, The Left Hand
are the quick bites of insight, the subtle
of Darkness is accessible and hard to
observations that characters make about
put down. As expats living in a country
their society that obviously originate from
with a culture disparate from our own
Murakami’s own mind.
(in general), this book should especially resonate with you. If you only have time
to read one book this year, make sure it’s
the Miso Soup” is the one that stands out
this one.
the most. In a roundabout way, it reads a
My Rating: ★
★★★★
Of his books that I’ve read so far, “In
bit like Stephen King’s “Misery.” The main character, Kenji, is a “nightlife” guide for foreigners coming to Japan to experience
38
summer reads
hostess clubs and other less than savory
As a final note, I should mention that
establishments. Kenji agrees to take an
Ralph McCarthy, who seems to be the
American man, Frank, out on the town
exclusive translator for Ryu Murakami’s
for three days before the end of the year.
works, is one of the best Japanese to
But the more time that Kenji spends with
English translators I’ve ever read. Not
Frank, the more he realizes that his client is
once in any of his translations have I
more deeply disturbed than he could have
had a moment where I could decipher
ever imagined. A combination of fatalistic
the original Japanese phrase, or glean
curiosity and a sense of responsibility
the original framework of a paragraph. If
for his client leads Kenji to continue
nothing else, reading this book will serve
guiding Frank around Shinjuku as their
as a good example of how to properly
nights grow more twisted and depraved.
translate from Japanese to English.
“In the Miso Soup” is a work that will
My Rating: ★
★★★
make you uncomfortable. It’s chilling, gross, and surreal. Parts of the story will make you roll your eyes and drop your
Satoko and Nada (manga review)
suspension of disbelief faster than you
Yupechika
can say “Where are the cops?” Other parts describe events or mannerisms so
meticulously crafted, you’ll wonder if
decided to review a charming little
Frank is based off someone Murakami
four-panel manga series that caught my
personally met. All in all, the book is a
attention. “Satoko and Nada” is a slice-
fantastically written pulp thriller, penned
of-life story that revolves around the
with a raw, explosive, energy that I’ve
main character, Satoko, and her Saudi
never really encountered from a Japanese
Arabian roommate, Nada, as they study
author. Absolutely worth a read if you’ve
abroad in America. A lot of the jokes and
been in the mood for something that’ll
humorous bits revolve around cultural
unbalance you.
misunderstandings, either between the
39
To shake things up a bit, I’ve also
THE AKITAN
40 Nakasen Donpan Festival, Nathan Finch
summer reads
two main characters or their lack of
I’m always interested in reading the
understanding of American culture. But
Japanese perspective of living or studying
the true gem of this story is the friendship
abroad, so this manga was one that I was
that builds between the two girls, and
personally invested in, but if that’s not
how they come to truly care and rely on
your cup of tea, maybe you can hold out
each other despite their backgrounds and
on checking it out. In my opinion, “Satoko
differences in personal beliefs.
and Nada” is a fun, easy-to-read, manga series that may pique your interest, as it
At times a lot of the “morals” can
be a little on the nose, and ultimately it is aimed at Japanese people who may not
did mine. My Rating: ★
★★
know much about Islam or Arabic culture, but the story itself is heartwarming and the art style is reminiscent of “Persepolis”
The Prince of Los Cocuyos: A Miami
by Marjane Satrapi, though I’m not sure
Childhood
if that was intentional or not. It should
Richard Blanco
also be noted that this series has not yet been translated into English, but it
“The Prince of Los Cocuyos” (The
contains furigana for almost all the kanji,
Prince of the Fireflies) is the memoir of
so it’s a pretty good way to get some
Richard Blanco, a gay Cuban man, and
practice reading Japanese if you’d like to
how he grew up in Miami and discovered
try that. At the very least, I’ve found that
himself. Blanco is first and foremost a
it’s a pretty good book to recommend
poet, and it shows. He has some intense
to students that might be interested in
moments that are gorgeously written,
studying abroad, as the author gives a
especially when he writes about the
realistic perspective by covering a lot of
moment he realized and admitted to
the fun and not-so-fun parts of studying
himself that he was attracted to men. But
in another country.
the rest of the memories in his stories don’t feel as inspired, and the difference
41
THE AKITAN
in the quality of writing is pretty stark.
truth is, you can’t be homesick for a place you hated living in. I’ve wanted to leave
Most of his memoir focuses on the
Miami since I was in middle school, so
Miami experience through the lens of
reading this book about another kid who
a Cuban-exile family. As a half-Cuban
shared the same sentiments as I did when
from Miami, I could relate to many of
we were the same age, yet felt a tinge of
the episodes in his life, bringing out
longing after he left was cathartic for me.
twinges of homesickness in my dried-up,
Maybe this review became too personal.
crusty, heart. But for people who aren’t
Hispanic or didn’t grow up in the pell-
this book so I could write out the opening
mell pandemonium that is Miami, “The
quote by Cesare Pavese,
If nothing else, I wanted to share
Prince of Los Cocuyos” won’t have much “You need a village, if only for the pleasure
of an impact.
of leaving it. Your own village means that At its core, the memoir is about
you’re not alone, that you know there’s
finding oneself. Blanco goes through
something of you in the people and the
transformative
experiences
when
he
realizes he’s gay and when he internalizes
plants and the soil, that even when you are not there it waits to welcome you.”
the fact that he’s Cuban. The culture that he had shunned as a kid for not letting him
I think by the end of the novel it’s obvious
be himself is one that he comes to yearn
that Blanco never wants to return to
for after leaving Miami. This paradoxical
Miami (in fact, he currently lives in Maine).
yearning is what made me really connect
But that acceptance of a “village” that
with his book. I’m a fourth-year ALT now,
you’d never choose to go back to, though
and I’ve often been asked about how I
nothing is stopping you apart from your
deal with homesickness. I’ve always tried
own aversion to returning, is a fascinating
to give diplomatic answers by telling
irony coming from the son of exiles.
people that I frequently facetime or text my friends and family or whatever. But the
My Rating: ★
★
42
43 Kakunodate Sasara Festival, Nathan Finch
THE AKITAN
The Gun
on the Chekhov’s Gun trope: since a gun
Fuminori Nakamura
was introduced in the story, the laws of storytelling dictate that it must be fired
“The Gun” by Fuminori Nakamura
before the end of the book. If you actively
and translated by Allison Markin Powell
try to find a meaning in the handgun and
is a story about a college student who
what it could symbolize, you can probably
happens upon a dead man holding a gun,
find yourself having a good time reading
picks it up, and takes it home with him.The
this book. Otherwise, the story is very flat.
longer that the gun is in his possession, the more enthralled he becomes by it.
“The Gun” is told in the point-of-
Soon enough, his obsession reaches a
view of Nishikawa, the college student
fever pitch, and his thoughts become
who finds the gun. The decision to tell
consumed only with experiencing what it
the story in the first person perspective
feels like to pull the trigger.
helps the reader get into the headspace of Nishikawa as he slips into an increasingly
The story is more interesting the
unbalanced mindset. So in that sense,
more you read into it. Does the gun
he is a fleshed out (relative to this story)
symbolize a male power complex? The
character that the reader can understand
main character is presented as unassuming
and empathize with. But that’s where
and soft-spoken, not really leaving much
the characterization ends. The rest of the
of an impact on his surroundings. But
characters that show up in the novel are
after acquiring the gun, he begins to
nothing more than cardboard cutouts.
move with purpose and confidence,
The two girls he enters relationships
though in another lens it’s fair to call it
with (unbeknownst to each other), his
an unhealthy manic energy. Perhaps the
dying father in the hospital, his next
story is a critique on American gun culture
door neighbor, the detective, everyone
and how it bleeds into other countries
in this story serves a singular purpose
due to the influence of America’s soft
and then fade from memory almost as
power. Or maybe it’s just a simple play
soon as the next chapter starts. Nothing
44
summer reads
feels grounded in reality, Nishikawa goes on long night walks to smoke and monologue far too many times for such a meager page-count, and the ending has no significant emotional impact.
To put the cherry on the cake, the
translation itself is amateurish at best. From outright typos to Google translateesque
sentences
and
dialogue, this
book did not read smoothly in the least.
Have any ideas for great books to
Comparing it to “In the Miso Soup” is like
reccommend to your fellow JETs?
night and day. Maybe a lot of the faults
Send your suggestions to Reza
that I found in “The Gun” were due to
at
the shoddy translation job, but even a bad
include a short review, a favorite
translation can’t account for the terrible
passage or quote, and why you think
pacing and lukewarm characterization of
it’s the perfect read!
99% of the characters. Should another translator take a crack at “The Gun” and try to convey the subtler nuances that may have been overlooked to add another layer of depth to the story, then I might reconsider how I feel about it, but until then I can’t recommend this book in good faith. My rating: ★
45
akitajoho@gmail.com!
...
Please
THE AKITAN
Guest Book Review by Danie Manos
Unseen City
programmed to believe that these two
Nathaniel Johnson
things do not mix, when, in fact, even in the paved streets and austere skyscrapers
Living in Akita, I would hope that most
of a city as “unnatural” as New York there is
of us have an appreciation for nature,
an incredible amount of natural diversity.
however, even the more urbanite among
In
the
opening
the nature we find in isolated and
mountains
forests,
actually
about
but the
wonders of the urban
Nathaniel
Johnson describes an
us would enjoy this book as it is not about
chapter,
“even in the paved streets and austere skyscrapers of a city as “unnatural” as New York there is an incredible amount of natural diversity”
ecologist who decided to simply stop and observe
flowers
in
Central Park during his walk. In doing so, he was able to identify 227 different species
wilderness.
of bees, right in the We tend to view “City” and “Nature”
heart of New York City! Nature does not
as separate - so much so that when
disappear when we enter city limits - it’s
teaching our students English antonyms
still there in the scruffy hedges alongside
we might use “City” and “Nature” as an
the road, creeping out of the cracks of in
example of “opposites”, along with “Black”
the pavements, or crawling around our
and “White”, or “Hot” and “Cold”. We are
kitchen floors.
46
guest book review
Ecologists have been so concerned
describe a “pigeon” or a “rat” with the
with studying “untouched” wilderness,
same reverence. Indeed, part of why we
that academic discourse on the nature
are less interested in urban wildlife is
of urban environments has been rather
because they are considered nuisances.
neglected. Indeed, if we walk into a
Ants are pests, pigeons are “flying rats”,
bookstore or library we could find
and rats are, well, rats. It’s as if we can
countless nature guides on the wildlife
only appreciate nature from afar, but the
of prairies, the amazon, the black forest,
moment it enters our human space it
what have you. But how many books are
becomes less “beautiful”.
there about the wilderness we might find in New York City or Tokyo? Sadly little.
Well, Johnson gives these pests their
long due praise. An American, Johnson
This is due, in part, to the reputation
dedicates the book to the particular
of urban wildlife. While a shika (deer)
species we fellow Americans would find
or kuma (bear) might be seen as elegant
bumbling around our city streets, but
or even majestic, it is laughable to
most of the vermin he describes are found
47
THE AKITAN
in most other countries too, including
City’s primary purpose is less to teach
here in Japan. Each chapter teaches us
us about American urban wilderness
the incredible facts of a particular urban
and more to encourage us to explore
pest, starting with pigeons, then looking
our own local environments. Johnson
at weeds, squirrels, birds (particularly
himself was inspired to write when his
their
young daughter turned just old enough
songs),
gingko
trees,
turkey
to begin questioning everything around
“It’s as if we can only appreciate
her. He was enamored with her curiosity,
nature from afar, but the moment it
the same curiosity we all have when we
enters our human space it becomes
are toddlers: wanting to follow ants back
less beautiful”
into their hole, pondering what the birds
vultures, ants, crows, and finally ending
plucking dandelions from the sidewalk
with snails. You might be wondering
just to count the number of petals. It is
how much there is to say about these
hard to write a non-fiction book that keeps
particularly “unincredible” creatures that
the reader’s interest but he approaches it
we see everyday - surprisingly there is
in a way that ignites the same childlike
a lot. Reading this book was just as eye
curiosity we all had at his daughter’s age,
opening and jaw dropping as watching
yet sadly neglect in adulthood.
around her might be talking about, or
an Attenborough documentary. I had no idea how complex the history of pigeons
As sojourners, we are encouraged
was, nor how remarkably ancient gingko
to be curious; here in Japan, we have a
trees are.
rare opportunity to deeply explore a foreign place. There is so much around
While, again, this book is clearly
us to discover, and this book is a fantastic
written by an American about American
inspiration for doing so. When I first
wildlife, I think we as JETs have much
arrived I was mostly concerned with
to gain from reading this book. Unseen
uncovering my local human culture, but
48
guest book review
this book made me realize that I should
My copy was given to me as a gift, and has
explore the new environment I lived in as
since been given away. But you can order
well. As Johnson encourages in the first
your copy on Amazon Kindle or from
chapter, I bought a notebook to catalog
The Book Depository (with free shipping
the nature around me (just a 100 yen nooto
worldwide!).
from Daiso!). I can’t say I’ve kept up with it religiously, but by simply having it I have become more observant of my natural
“As sojourners,
environment, and it is incredible how
we are encouraged to be
much I have learned about Akita through
curious; here in Japan,
simple observation. I now feel familiar with the patterns of seasonal wildlife and as a result it has enhanced my overall experience living here. For example, from the moment daffodils pop out of the ground in early spring, I could tell you the blooming order of all the flowers to follow, as well as when particular insects will begin to appear. Just by knowing the
we have a rare opportunity to deeply explore a foreign place. There is so much around us to discover, and t his book is a fantastic inspiration for doing so.”
nature around me, I feel more involved in it, and I feel less of a tourist and more of a resident. As Johnson notes:
“The more closely we [look] the more the world [opens] itself to us, as if to reward our attention.” Danie’s Rating: ★
49
★★★★
...
THE AKITAN
50 Kakunodate Sasara Festival, Nathan Finch
SUMMER RECIPES
51
THE AKITAN
Summer
may have ended but that doesn’t mean you need to whip out the soup pot
just yet.
September definitely cools down but it's perfect weather for some vegetable
salads, baking, and strolls around town. Some of you might be seasoned home cooks, others maybe it’s your first time ‘really’ living alone. Cooking is not as difficult as it may seem, just follow these recipes for some simple, and delicious meals to round off the end of summer and beginning of fall.
Strawberry Almond Friands Makes: 12 Time: 35 minutes
Preheat the oven to 240C Lightly whisk the egg whites until foamy
What you’ll need:
Add butter, almond meal, sugar, and flour Using a spoon, stir until just combined
6 egg whites
Pour into muffin tins
185g butter (melted)
Lightly press strawberry slices on top
120g almond meal
Bake for 25minutes, or until golden.
240g icing sugar (sifted) 100g strawberries (sliced)
Note:
Extra icing sugar for dusting
It’s normal for the mixture to be liquid Lower the oven temperature if cooking too quickly Keeps for 2 days in an airtight container
52
summer recipes
Summer Gin Pairings
“揚げなすサラダ” Sautéed Eggplant Salad (2-4 servings)
The key to a choosing a good garnish is to know your base gin. Compliment key
Time: 20 minutes
botanicals with a similar accent.
What you’ll need:
Strawberry and Basil G&T 2 medium eggplants
2 parts gin
1 cucumber
tonic water
1 large tomato
strawberry
1/4 onion
fresh basil
2tbsp mentsuyu 1tbsp vinegar
Muddle gin, basil, and strawberry with
1 tsp sesame oil
ice. Strain into a chilled glass, and top with tonic water. (complements a floral
Cut the eggplants (rangiri*)
gin well)
Deep fry eggplant for 1 minute Remove excess oil with paper towel
The Beez Kneez
While hot soak in the dressing
2 parts gin
Set aside to cool (refrigerate)
1 part lemon juice (fresh)
Thinly slice onion
1 part honey syrup
Cut the salad vegetables (rangiri) Drain excess liquid before serving
Shake all ingredients together with ice. Strain into a chilled glass, garnish with
Note:
lemon zest. (Hendricks works well)
*rangiri is an angled cutting method Soak cucumbers with eggplant for a
Note:
marinated flavor
To make honey syrup, dilute 2 parts
Serve warm or chilled
honey to 1 part water.
53
THE AKITAN
Pear and Almond Cake Time: 55 minutes What you’ll need:
Pre-heat oven to 190° C. Grease a cake pan
125 g unsalted butter
Beat butter and sugar together until pale
(room temperature)
and fluffy using an electric mixer
125 g sugar
Add eggs, one at a time, beating well
2 eggs
Fold in the dry ingredients
100 g all-purpose flour (sifted)
Spoon batter into pan
100 g almond meal
Arrange the pear halves over the top of
2.46 g baking powder
the cake and bake for 25 minutes.
1 can pears (sliced)
Remove cake from oven, drizzle with
50 g flaked almonds
honey and sprinkle the flaked almonds.
Honey for glazing
Return to the oven for 10 minutes.
Icing sugar for dusting
Dust with icing sugar to serve
Note:
Serve warm on its own or with vanilla
Make almond meal with a food processor
ice cream
54
summer recipes
the spice salt. Serve immediately.
Toasted sesame seeds
“お茶ずけ”
Perfect for when you are feeling a bit run
Ochazuke
down, lazy, or have a sore throat. This Japanese staple is filling, healthy, simple,
Time: 10 minutes
and gentle on the stomach.
What you’ll need: Put the cooked rice in a single serve Cooked rice
deep bowl
Salted salmon flakes
Top with a generous amount of flaked
Shredded nori
salmon, crushed senbei, vegetable, nori
Bubu arare or crushed senbei
and sesame seeds
Mitsuba or thinly sliced green onion
Pour hot dashi stock, or green tea over
55
THE AKITAN
remove basil and chicken from oil
Taiwanese Basil Fried Chicken (4 servings) Time: 30 minutes What you’ll need:
Marinate the chicken with the garlic, ginger, soy sauce, sake, sugar and five-
600g boneless chicken thigh
spice (at least 10 minutes)
3 cloves garlic (minced) 1 tsp grated ginger
Coat the chicken pieces in the potato
1 tbsp soy sauce
flour and shake off any excess.
1 tbsp cooking wine (sake) 2 tsp sugar
Heat the oil in a wok or saucepan. When
½ tsp Chinese five-spice
the oil is hot (not smoking)scatter the
1 cup potato flour (katakuriko 片栗粉)
basil leaves into the wok and stir for
Oil, for deep-frying
about 20 seconds, or until the basil
1 cup fresh basil leaves
turns translucent. Remove and drain on absorbent paper.
Spice salt 1 tbsp salt
Increase the heat of the oil and fry the
¼ tsp Chinese five-spice
chicken in batches until golden brown
¼ tsp white pepper
and cooked through.
pinch chilli powder Toast spice ingredients in a dry frypan Note:
over low–medium heat for 2 minutes
Use a wok and fry in small batches to use less oil
Toss the chicken with the fried basil
A shallow skimmer strainer is useful to
leaves and season with a good pinch of
...
56
57
THE AKITAN
Charity Akita Greetings new JETs, old JETs, JET alumni, and friends! Charity Akita is rolling out this year with a brand new Board of Directors and we’re really eager to continue our annual events (and maybe plan some new ones!)
Who are we? Charity Akita is a non-profit group organized by current and former JETs with the primary mission of planning events throughout the year to bring together our community. We are not affiliated with any government, business, or other public/ private organizations. Just a bunch of expats looking to have a good time and raise some money for charity! How to get involved! Follow us on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram (@CharityAkita) or email us at CharityAkita@gmail.com. We are always looking for volunteers and for new ideas! https://charityakita.com/
58
charity akita announcement
MEET OUR NEW 2018 BOARD executive director
Peter Hall
deputy director
Chris Dean
treasurer
Caty Sullivan
social media manager
Danie Manos
location liason
Aki Regan
community and charity liason
Asami Jin
WHAT’S COMING UP? We would like to thank everyone again who came to the Welcome Party at the beach. We had a great time! These are our tentative dates for our usual yearly events. Mark your calendars, and keep an eye on our Facebook & Twitter to get updates.
OCTOBER 27
Halloween Party Christmas Caroling Appi 2-day Ski Trip St. Patrick’s Day Party Sumo Tournament
DECEMBER FEBRUARY 22-23 MARCH 16 JUNE
59
...
THE AKITAN
60 Fuji Rock Festival 2018, Aki Regan
fuji rock festival
2018
FUJI ROCK FESTIVA typhoons, tunes, and the surge
3, 2, 1,
and may the odds be ever in your favor .
The beat
that remind me of how
dropped on Skrillex’s opening song and in less than 10 seconds
strangers have changed, a
I lost my entire group of friends. For the next 4 minutes I floated
in Japan. We are often t
through the crowd sardined against bodies, desperately trying
of etiquitte that dictate s
not to lose my slides and phone. Miraculously ending up front
in Japan. When we ca
and center, it was here that I would remain for the next 3 hours.
the phone, how to line u
I planted myself beside a tiny Japanese obasan (she did not
acceptable clothing. As t
realize what she had got herself into), locked my hands around
we are held to a high sta
the barrier rail, and battled
in the public eye. So b
against the crushing pressure of the EDM crowd. Now I am not new to the music festival scene, I spent a great deal of my time in Australia at live
Bangarang
[‘baŋәraŋ]noun ____________________ an uproar or disturbance.
able to witness people
go of those restraints, as well as free myself from them was a refreshing change. Fuji Rock
shows, in mosh pits, and the
is a festival for all
occasional circle of death. (throwback to my emo teen years).To put
ages. Everyone
it simply, this was not my first rodeo. However, I was not prepared
is able to leave
for the reaction of a largely Japanese crowd at the Skrillex and
their stress
following Kendrick Lamar live stages. The two major headliners
at
for day 2 of FRF18’ were a completely different experience to
and just
any concert I have attended in these past 2 years. I realize now
listen
that I’ve become accustomed to the organized towel swinging
to
crowds at most Japanese concerts. It’s these small moments
61
home
AL 2018
THE AKITAN
Priscilla Chong
my expectations of
as a result of living
told of the rules
social behavior
an speak on
up, what is
teachers,
andard
being let
s
62
63 Post Malone (FRF’18), Didy Huang
THE AKITAN
good music, spend time with friends, and frolic in the great outdoors. First held at Mt. Fuji in 1997, the festival quickly outgrew the original site. It is now held at Naeba ski resort in Niigata, attracting 125,000 attendees this year. I highly recommend it. The cheapest accommodation is camping, however this has its drawbacks. Typhoon Jongdari hit the festival site late Saturday night. It was a rough time trying to sleep whilst winds blew the tent wall into my face. All in all, Fuji Rock Festival
Kendrick Lamar (FRF’18), Kate Smith
was an amazing weekend. I made some hilarious memories with some amazing people. We started
check out the aftermovie here:
off as a makeshift group of friends, but we bonded through the trauma of Skrillex’s ‘Bangarang’ surge.
http://fujirock-eng.com/_
Friends who survive festivals together, stay together.
news/0814_01_aftermovie.html
...
FRF’18, Didy Huang 64
65
THE AKITAN
66 Kakunodate Yamabuttsuke, Pimms Hubbell
seeing a lot of japan in a short time
SEEING A LOT OF JAPAN IN liam fahy Japan has an absurd amount of places to see.
DAY 1
But with the shape of the country, it
The first destination I aimed for was the
can take a lot of effort to scratch a lot of
‘Kappa bridge’. This is a scenic bridge that
places off your bucket list. For golden week
spans a crystal blue snow melt river in the
this year I decided to explore as much
mountains on the border of Nagano and
of the country as possible. So I decided
Gifu prefectures. The only reason I know
to drive from Yurihonjo to Fukuoka and
about this place is because I saw it as one
back. In total it would be over 3000km
of those background videos you see when
and I would get it all done in 8 days.
you do karaoke. Anyway, while the bridge was the main destination for the day, the
Before I left, I planned my route trying to
actual drive through the mountains was
get a good balance of driving and actually
beautiful. One thing to
seeing things. I also decided to use the
note of you want to come
toll roads for any driving over 50km as using the local roads would add actual days’ worth of driving to the trip. This was obviously more expensive but totally worth it. Anyway I’ll break it down by day I guess.
67
THE AKITAN
A SHORT TIME here is that you can’t actually drive to the bridge. You have to drive to a nearby town and get an official bus from there. Besides the bridge, there isn’t much there.There’s a café and a gift shop. But the area is just beautiful and even though it was busy with tourists, it felt very peaceful and serene. Leaving the mountains, Komatsu in Ishikawa would be my end spot for day 1. One the way
68
seeing a lot of japan in a short time
Kurashiki Culture District (Okayama), Liam
though I stopped in Takayama. Takayama,
DAY 2
though more so Hida was the inspiration
The first stop on day two was the
for the quiet town scenes in the movie
cultural district of Kurashiki in Okayama
‘Kimi no Na wa’ and you can definitely feel
prefecture. You might of seen this place
it. Takayama is a small town packed with
on the news earlier this summer as the
giant toti gates, lanterns, old style houses
surrounding area was heavily flooded due
and it’s possibly the most Japanese place
to the rains. The culture district itself was
I have ever been.
undamaged.
Before leaving, I picked up a bottle of their
The main draw to Kurashiki is its canal
local nihonshu to see how it compares to
and surrounded historical streets. Many
Akitas.
of the buildings now sell traditional crafts
69
THE AKITAN
or snacks, and some are now very old
DAY 3
curry restaurants. I didn’t spend too
For accommodation in Hiroshima I
much time here as my next destination
stayed at a capsule hotel. I chose one that
involved getting a ferry and with it being
also had links to a really cheap car park.
golden week I knew it would talk a while
For Hiroshima, I wanted to chill a bit
to get a seat on it.
more. So half of the day was spent visiting some of the historical areas related to the
My next stop was the island of
atomic bombing, as well as the museum.
Okunoshima, also known as rabbit
The day I went, was really sunny and
island. It’s a good thing I got there early
warm but not hot. It was the perfect day
as it took 2 hours waiting in line to get
to do your own walking tours. I went
on a ferry to the island. Golden week
to the bomb hypocentre, the a-bomb
crowds really do live up to the infamy. As
dome, peace park and the war museum.
you’d expect, the island is packed with
Half
rabbits. Over 3000 in fact. The island
earthquake proof renovations so I didn’t
also has great walking/cycling paths that
get to see everything.
of
the
museum
was
under
Even so, the
circle the island. It’s a great area to just stroll and enjoy the scenery as well has having rabbits running around you at all times. If rabbits are not your thing, the island also has an interesting history in the manufacturing of poison gas during WW2. After returning to the mainland, I headed straight for Hiroshima. Okunoshima “rabbit island” (Okayama), Liam Fahy
70
seeing a lot of japan in a short time
museum was very interesting. What I liked was that it showcased the terrors of war and had an overarching message of peace and striving to make sure we never go back to those times. After the museum I got lunch at a café that had outdoor seating. From my table I could see the a-bomb dome clearly. I was also aware that the hypocentre was only 200m away from where I was seated. Hiroshima is a very beautiful city but it’s also sobering knowing that where you standing, 73 years ago, one of the greatest weapons devised by man was released. After lunch I grabbed my car and drove an hour away to another ferry. This one was to take me to Miyajima. Luckily, Miyajima is a major tourist area so I didn’t have to wait long to get on a ferry. Miyajima is probably most famous for its big tori gate that stand amidst the ocean when the tide comes in.
71
The tide however, was out when I arrived.
trip I didn’t research things to do or
But this also let everyone who was there
eat at, so I was really surprised to se
walk out onto the beach and walk around
overrun with deer. I had encountered
the base of the gate. Also, for a lot of this
it wasn’t too shocking, but it was a lov
THE AKITAN
Itsukushima Shrine (Miyajima), Liam Fahy
r places to go or places to
The island has many different paths and different temples,
ee the village on Miyajima
pagoda and viewpoints to discover. There is also a park/garden.
the deer at Nara before so
This is a fantastic example of the Japanese style garden, with
vely surprise.
red bridges going over ponds, koi everywhere and lots of momiji
72
seeing a lot of japan in a short time
73
(top) Hiroshima Peace Memorial; (bottom) the great Torii at Miyajima,
THE AKITAN
trees. These Japanese maple are beautiful
sides by massive trucks. My car is a tiny
in fall and they are sometimes deep fried
yellow plate Daihatsu mira, so it wasn’t
and eaten as a snack.
the best feeling in the world. That mixed with the rain and my rising tiredness, I got
If you are lucky you will also get to hear
an overwhelming feeling of “man I wish I
some of the monks chanting and playing
was just in my nice big bed in honjo”.
various drums. With the setting of Miyajima, it really smacks you in the face with a “THIS IS JAPAN” feeling.
DAY 4 The entire day I was in Fukuoka, it was
The next part was the worst part of my
raining. So I decided I would have an
trip. I had underestimated how long it
indoor activities kind of day. So I turned
would take to drive from Hiroshima to
to instagram to give me inspiration on
Fukuoka. And having overstayed my
things to do. That’s a tip I have for people
time at Miyajima, I was soon driving in
going to a new place and not knowing
the dark. This was something I tried my
what to do, or finding some hidden gems
hardest not too do as I spend a lot of time
that the locals put up on insta. While I
driving and then walking around and
was in my hotel room, I was browsing #福
exploring, so by the time evening comes
岡 and one event flooded the feed. An art
my energy would start to wane. About
exhibit was currently showing in Fukuoka.
an hour outside Fukuoka, the heavens
Every piece of the exhibit was some form
opened up and it started pouring rain. At
of aquarium. These tanks ranged in size
the time I was on the bridge that connects
from a cereal bowl to massive tanks. Every
Honshu to Kyushu. This is a major freight
tank was either beautifully designed or
transport road so I was surrounded on all
had some cool lighting effects.
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seeing a lot of japan in a short time
Fukuoka is famous for tonkotsu (pork bone) ramen. Fukuoka is also home of the first Ichiran tokotsu ramen restaurant. Amazingly, there was no queue when I got there, maybe the rain helped with that. The ramen was super delicious and it was an interesting experience in itself. You are separated from every other diner and the staff serve your ramen from
through it. In the evening they had a big
behind a curtain. This is to let you focus
light show projected onto the fountain
entirely on the ramen. They want you to
jets of the canal. Fukuoka is definitely a
taste the ramen, savor the ramen, BE the
city that comes to life at night. While the
ramen! It was tasty. I recommend. The
city had been a bit quiet and grey due to
last major thing I did in Fukuoka was
the rain, it exploded at night.
go to Canal City. This is a big shopping DAY 5
mall with a water feature/canal running
After two nights in Fukuoka, it was time to start heading north again. Today’s plan was to get to Osaka with just one major stop along the way. The stop was kintai bridge in Yamaguchi prefecture. This is a long Japanese style humpback bridge in the middle of nowhere Yamaguchi. But it looked interesting so I wanted to check it out. Ichiran ramen (Fukuoka), Liam Fahy (top) aquarium art exhibit, Liam Fahy
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After parking with everyone else on the
the road I was on was newly opened and
dry rocky riverbank I walked got a ticket
was not yet input to google maps, as I was
to allow me to cross the bridge. There
driving through a beige blur on the map
really isn’t anything on either side of the
with nothing around, so I missed my exit
bridge but it was nice to sit and read my
and joined the golden week traffic. With
kindle and eat an ice-cream in such an
the traffic and some of the backtracking I
idyllic area. If bridges aren’t your thing,
had to do, I added another 2 hours onto
then don’t bother coming here.
my already long drive. Fun times.
From there I had a straight drive to Osaka.
Anyway, I arrived and checked into the
That was until my google maps started to
seediest hotel in Japan.
freak the hell out. I can only guess that
Dotonbori (Osaka), Liam Fahy
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seeing a lot of japan in a short time
Kintai bridge (Yamaguchi), Liam Fahy
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DAY 6 I had been to Osaka before so this time was devoted mostly to shopping and eating food we can’t get here in Akita. But since it was golden week, it seemed like every person in Asia was in Osaka that day. DAY 7 For this day I was heading back to Gifu for what I thought was going to be a beautiful scene of flooded rice terraces. I was so wrong, but so much happier with what I got. After driving though a small town, I started my ascent up Mt. Ibuki. I was a little worried as my car does not like going uphill. Anyway, I got to my destination, but what surrounded me instead of rice fields, was a large tea plantation. The layout of the plantation was also high up in this steep valley, so they call the area the Machu Pichu
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79 Tea plantations at Mt. Ibuki “Machu Pichu of Gifu”, Liam Fahy
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seeing a lot of japan in a short time
of Gifu. The plantation had free parking
car, the trip wasn’t as cheap as I had
and some nice walking trails. After your
hoped. Driving on the toll roads was the
walk they offer you some fresh tea from
biggest cost, followed by fuel. But for the
the leaves grown right there. I left Machu
freedom of where to go when you wanted
Pichu and headed once again for Komatsu
to it was worth it. It was also not as lonely
in Ishikawa to crash at my friends place.
as I thought it would be. I had some good playlists and podcasts to listen to along
DAY 8
the way. Download “My Dad Wrote A
The last day of my trip was the drive home.
Porno” if you haven’t listened to it yet!
This felt like the longest part of my trip. But before I got back to Akita prefecture,
I didn’t include everything I did or saw
I stopped in Sakata to grab some pizza
but I hope this can inspire someone to
hut. One last treat before my domestic
travel more, or just wing it when you have
holiday ended.
some days off. If you have any questions about anywhere I went, tolls, or anything
Overall I drove 3170km, visited over 10
like that, ask me anytime.
prefectures, and knocked a load of things Happy travels
off my bucket list. While I had my own
...
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Flooded rice fields, Liam Fahy
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(top) Mt. Kurikoma, (bottom) Oyasukyo Gorge, Priscilla Chong
THE AKITAN
fall in love with fall
fall in love with fall danie manos “Akita” doesn’t mean “Autumn Rice Fields” for no reason! Tourists come in bus loads from as far as Tokyo to witness our vibrant fall leaves. Don’t miss out! Our leaves are forecasted to change come next month. Let me recommend to you some of my personal favorite places for autumn sight seeing.
Mt. Kurikoma
Oyasukyo Gorge
Like I said, busloads of tourists make it
Not a fan of hiking? Fear not! Just a short
out to Kurikoma-yama come autumn,
drive from Mt. Kurikoma is the equally
so the hiking paths can get a little busy.
beautiful Oyasukyo Gorge. A feature
But don’t let that put you off! Not only
of the Yuzawa geo-park, this gorge is
can you get breathtaking views of a sea
literally steaming – don’t dip your toes in!
of fall leaves, but you can soak your achy
I honestly cannot believe I haven’t gotten
legs in the outdoor onsen at the bottom
a picture of it in autumn; with a canopy
after. Located on the border of Akita,
of autumn leaves above and below, this is
Iwate, and Miyagi, on clear days you may
a really beautiful place to get some insta-
even see Mt. Chokai, Gassan, and Zao!
worthy shots (not pictured is a bright red
The hike is about 4km on the Akita side
bridge overhead!). The hike down and up
and isn’t terribly difficult – at least, if the
the gorge takes only about ten minutes…
obachans from Tokyo can do it then so
So you might be thinking, is it worth the
can you! Park at Sukawa Onsen「須川高原
trip? Absolutely! With all of this steamy
大露天風呂」to start your journey. Oh! And
water readily available, you bet the gorge
don’t forget waterproof shoes!
is lined with some really cozy outdoor
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fall in love with fall
onsen. Each bathhouse has a rustic feel, built with wood slates or stone, with some baths right up against the river itself. My personal favorites are Tarobee and Abe Ryokan. Check out the area website: https://www.oyasukyo.jp/ Note: I feel I can’t forget to mention that you can buy some really delicious fresh Kurikoma ice cream here!
Kawarage Jigoku – AKA “Hell” Also located in Yuzawa (perhaps you are
legs, you can take a short walk through the
noticing a trend), this place is cheerfully
woods to soak in a steamy onsen waterfall
named after the fiery pits of Hell. Perhaps
– yes, I said that right, an onsen waterfall .
this is because the mountain is so volcanic
Don’t forget your bathers though! This is
it’s completely stripped of life, leaving
not a private bath!
nothing but pebbly dust and steamy yellow sulfur. Gosh Danie, why would I
If you do want a private bath, you cannot
want to visit a smelly bald mountain?
miss out on bathing in Doroyu onsen,
Bear with me. The best word I can use
right next to Kawarage Jigoku, arguably
to describe this place is “surreal”. With a
one of the most famous onsen in Akita
back drop of fiery red fall leaves, visiting
(next to Nyuto, of course). Sadly, many of
here felt like I was walking on Mars. Also
the facilities burned down in a terrible
for you non-hikers, you can drive right up
fire just a few years ago, but the baths are
to it! But if you are ready to stretch your
still running despite there
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86 Kawarage Oyutaki (Yuzawa), Priscilla Chong
fall in love with fall
Kawarage Jigoku, Sandra Syt-Mui Pang
being some reconstruction. Doroyu is a
Notable mentions:
mud bath, expect to come out with your
Lake Towada (Akita/Aomori)
skin looking hella fresh. (Thanks, Satan!)
Shirakami Sanchi (Akita/Aomori)
Get your hiking boots and cameras! These are just three of my favorite places,
Naruko Gorge (Miyagi) Hachimantai (Akita/Iwate) Dakigaeri Gorge (Akita) Hottai Falls (Mt. Chokai)
and I am clearly biased toward Yuzawa. But there are sightseeing spots all over
If you visit any of these places
Akita prefecture. Ask your friends and
(or others) please send in your photos
neighbors for their recommendations!
for the Akitan Fall edition
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88 Mitake Shrine Festival (Ugo), Priscilla Chong
upcoming event september
october
yuzawa udon expo
kiritampo festival
Taste udon from around Japan
Make your own kiritampo
Date: 9/29 ~ 9/30
Date: 10/6 ~ 10/8
Location: Yuzawa City Hall
Location: Odate
Website: http://www.udonexpo.net/
Website: http://tanpofes.com/
90 ’ s
fall leaves cycle
lounge ( dj event )
Dance with some young people
Changing colors along train lines
Date: 9/29
Date: 10/10
Location: Akita International
Location: North Akita
University
Website: http://www.akita-satoya-
Website: http://www.90slounge.
ma.com/pg143.html
com/ goshiki lake festival
Catch a fish with your hands Date: 10/15 Location:Yamase Dam multipurpose square Website: http://www.city.odate.akita.jp/dcity/t-sangyo/67-6725.html
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ts around akita october akita brewing festival
Enjoy Akita’s nihonshu Date: 10/20 ~ 10/21 Location: Alve, Akita City Website: https://japan-attractions. jp/alcohol/akita-brewing-festival/
november remember to change to snow tires
Do you know of something fun that will happen in winter? Let us know for the next edition.
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the staff of the akitan would like many talented contributing
Most photographs are credited in pla
Jose Alonso, via unsplash.com (background, 2 ) Sandra Syt-Mui Pang (banner, 15)
James L.W, via unsplash.com (banner, 37 ) Tom Ritson, via unsplash.com (banner, 46) ‘strawberry’, via rawpixel.com (background, 51) Toa Heftiba, via unsplash.com (background, 54) Marisa Harris, via unsplash.com (background, 55)
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e to extend our grattitude to our writers and photographers .
ace, but we would also like to thank: Danie Manos (background, 57, 58) Aki Regan (background, 62) Liam Fahy (background, 67, 68) ‘fall forecast’, via jrailpass.com (background, 85) Andrea Danko (background, 89) Priscilla Chong (background, 91)
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Thank you for reading
T H E A K I TA N
S E E YO U I N FA L L
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