TEXTILES OF INDIA
Contents History Variety Raw materials Material properties Product ranges Market study Craft scenario
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7 9-13 14-17 18-20 21-23 24-25 26-27
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29 30 31 32 35
Area of Interest (Khadi)
Introduction Perception Current market Brand study Tools & machinery
HISTORY
-The term textile derived from the Latin ‘texere’ (to weave). -There is archaeological evidence of a cotton textile industry at Mohenjo-Daro in the Indus Valley around 3000 B.C. Marco Polo in the late thirteenth century mentioned seeing on the Coromandel Coast the finest and most beautiful cloth in all the world-buckrams like the tissues of spider webs, and he observed dyeing with indigo in the great textile center of Cambay and spinning of cotton in Gujarat. -The sultan employed four thousand silk weavers who made robes of honor, hangings, and gifts of gold brocade for foreign dignitaries. Akbar who ruled for the second half of the sixteenth century-governed a glorious empire where the textile arts flourished until the late seventeenth century. -Some of the best accounts of Indian textiles were written by European ambassadors to the Mogul courts. Fabulous horse and elephant trappings, as well as the apparel, pillows, and wall hangings, were remarked upon. Indian textiles were more important to the Dutch and the English than to the Portuguese. bartered for spices in the Malay Archipelago. During 17th and 18th centuries,
“India was the major supplier of textiles not just fine clothes, but every day wear of the masses - to the whole of South EastAsia, Iran, the Arab countries and East Africa. Ramayana and Mahabharata also speak of a variety off abrics of those times. The Ramayana refers to the rich stuff worn by the aristocracy on one hand and the simple clothes worn by the commoners. - The past traditions of the textile and handlooms can still be seen amongst the motifs,patterns, designs, and the old techniques of weaving, still used by the Indian weavers. -Indian textiles were so popular that most of the European trade companies began to trade in cotton and other textile materials. The first textile mill was established at Fort Gloster near Calcutta in 1818. -Next to Agriculture India mainly is into Textile Sector. Different types of fibers originated in different parts of the world – cotton in India, Africa; silk in China , wool in Mediterranean and flax for linen in Europe and Egypt ; -Later these textiles reached all parts of the world and was adopted by all cultures and geographical regions.
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types of textile The fibers that form textiles are of two types 1.Natural fibersThey are harvested from plants or by shearing animal fur. The most common ones you must know are wool, silk (from animals) cotton, jute, flax ( from plants).Hair bearing animals like silkworms and sheep are shorn of their fur to produce these fibers(wool, silk); Fibers are also extracted from roots, leaves etc of plants like cotton, flax etc. Minerals like asbestos are also used to make fibers. 2.Manufactured fibers ( Man made fibers)Major players of the textile industry invest in developing fibers which are economical as well as carry many qualities which are highly desired. These versatile fibers are much in demand and make up almost half of the fiber produced in the world today. Manufactured fibers consists of the following three types1 Regenerated cellulose fibers which are made from a viscous solution of cellulose which is purified wood pulp mostly a cross between natural and manmade fibers.
2 Synthetic fibers which are basically chemical raw materials. 3 Blended fibers, man made fibers made by blending other man made fibers or with natural fibers. They are mostly a cross between natural and manmade fibers. Types of Fibre used in IndiaDifferent types of fabrics made from Natural Fibers are: 1. Cotton: Cotton is the most popular types of fabrics used due to its versatility. It is light weight, comfortable to wear, affordable and one of the best to wear in the hot and humid climate of Indian Sub continent. Cotton fabric is used since ancient times with traces of the same found dated during Indus valley civilization. 2.Silk: Silk fabric is made from the natural fiber of the cocoons of the caterpillars. The best-known silk is obtained from the cocoons of the larvae of the mulberry silkworm which is reared in captivity. 9
3.Linen : Linen fabric is made form the fibers of the Flax plant. This type of fabric is typically difficult to make compared to Cotton but it is stronger and absorbent. It dries faster than cotton fabric. When we touch Linen Fiber, it feels cold due to high heat conductivity. 4.Wool : Wool is a textile made from the fur of animals like Sheep. Australia is a leading produces of wool followed by China and New Zealand. 5.Jute: Jute is a vegetable fabric made from the Jute plant. It is easy and cheap to produce Jute fiber. India is the leading producer of Jute followed by Bangladesh. Jute is not used in the Clothing industry but heavily used to make sacks or bags for storing, ropes.
melts under fire. As it is synthetic, it is affordable as well. It doesn’t allow air to transfer through it and hence it is not advisable in hot and humid conditions. 2.Velvet: Velvet is a type of fabric which is typically known for its soft texture. It is made generally from Velvet silk which is a combination of Rayon and Silk. Velvet made from pure silk is very expensive. 3.Polyster: Polyester is a type of fabric made from synthetic polyester yarns and is somewhat similar to plastic. It is very strong and light weight fabric and doesn’t need ironing too often making it quite maintainable.
Man-made Fibers-
4.Denim: Denim is a sturdy cotton warp-faced textile in which the horizontal thread known as weft passes under two or more warp threads.
1.Chiffon: Chiffon is a type of fabric which is light weight and transparent. It originated in France and the word ‘Chiffon‘ in french means cloth. It is inherently a very fine mesh that gives it the transparency.
5.Rayon: Rayon fabric is manufactured from naturally occurring fibers and hence though it is man made but is not classified as synthetic fiber. Rayon which resembles silk is called as “Artificial silk”.
2.Nylon: Nylon is a light weight, water-proof and strong fabric but it
6.Satin: Satin is a type of fabric that is glossy at the top and dull at the back.
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Classification of textile fibers Natural Animal
Seed Cotton kapok
Wool
Mineral (Asbesos)
Vegetable
Bast flex hemp Ramise Jute kenaf
Hair Cow Horse alpaca Goat Vicuna camel Hare Rabbit
Leaf Absca henequen manila sisal Phormia
Fruit coir
Man-Made Natural Polyster Regenerated Protein (casein Vegetable protein)
Regenerated Cellulose (Rayon, viscose, cupromonium)
Cellulose esters (cellulose acctatcs)
polyurethane
Synthetic Polymer
Refractory and Related Fibres (carbon, glass, metal)
Miscellaneous (alginate natural rubber)
Polyamides (nylons)
Polyster
Polymerized Hydrocarbons (ethylene, propylone)
Synthetic rubber
Poluvinyl derivatives Florin Substituted
Chlorine substiuted
Cyano substitued
Hydoxyl substituted 13
RAW MATERIALS Raw material is the primary substance which is used as an input to a production process the same are as followed: Fibre: The textile industries use different types of fibres which are derived from nature or manually produced. These fibres are used to produce dresses, towels, blankets etc. Some of these fibres were known and used in the earlier years of civilization, as well as in modern times. Yarn: Yarns can be made of staple fibres by several techniques. Rings pinning is the oldest and most wide spread technique. Open end spinning is another major method. The development of short fibres, or staple, into yarn, when started in terms of basic manufacturing processes is as follows : Carding ~ Combing ~ Drafting ~ Twisting ~ Winding As the fibres pass through these processes, they are successively formed into lap, sliver, roving and finally yarn. Here the manufacturing operation in which these stages occur: Ÿ Lap to card sliver by the carding process Ÿ Card sliver to comb sliver by the combing process (if the fibre is to be combed) Ÿ Sliver to roving by the drafting, or drawing process Ÿ Yarn reeled on bobbins, spools or cones by the winding process
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Fabric:
Dyes:
Fabric is a planar textile structure produces by interlacing yarns or filaments. Most fabrics are produced through knitting or weaving, but some are produced by non-woven processes such as braiding, felting, and twisting.
The dye is a complex compound which is applied in the textile materials represent color and contains chromophore and auxochrome groups in its chemical structure. It is necessary to know which dyes have an affinity for the vegetable, animal, or man-made fibres to select the proper dye for a fibre. Different types of dyes are used in the textile industries as raw materials are as follows – Basic dyes, Acid dyes, Mordant dyes, Substantive direct dyes, Developed dyes, Azoic dyes, Disperse dyes, Vat dyes, Reactive dyes, Pigment dyes.
Weaving: A major method of fabric construction is weaving. The technique probably became known before spinning. P Spinning developed when people discovered that the raw materials could be improved before they were woven. In course of time, rude looms were made, which were crudely simple and hand-operated. Knitting: Knitting is the second most frequently used method of fabric construction. The popularity of knitting has grown tremendously within recent years because of the increased versatility of techniques, the adaptability of the many new man-made fibres, and the growth in consumer demand for wrinkle resistant, stretchable, snug-fitting fabrics, particularly in the greatly expanding areas of sportswear and other casual wearing apparel. Some commercial names of fabric are Aertex ,Angora, Braid, Brocade, Chiffon, Canvas, Chambray, Denim, Fleece, Hopsack.
Chemicals and Auxiliaries: Dyeing chemicals and auxiliaries enables a processing operation in preparation, dyeing, printing or finishing to be carried out more effectively, or which is essential if a given effect is to be obtained. Different types of chemicals and auxiliaries used in dyeing, printing and finishing are as follows – Whitening agent, Wetting agent, Fixing agent, Detergent, Silicon, Stiffering agent, Water proofing agent, De-foaming agent, Enzymes, Caustic soda, Soda ash, Acetic acid, Oxalic acid.
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Durability characteristics: Durability characteristics are the capacities of fabric to maintain the style and utility characteristics during wear. It is the measure of stress which destroys the fabric or the fabrics ability to repeat a desired style or utility characteristic. The durability characteristics are: Ÿ Abrasive strength (the measure of rubbing action) Ÿ Bursting strength (the measure of vertical pressure) Ÿ Launder-ability (the measure of washing) Ÿ Tearing strength Ÿ Moth resistance Ÿ Tensile strength Ÿ Radiation absorption strength (the rate at which radiation energy either disintegrate a fabric or destroys utility characteristics). Ÿ Fire resistance Ÿ Corrosive strength ( the measure of chemical action, acid or alkaline) Ÿ Dry cleaning durability ( the measure of dry cleaning performance) Product Production working characteristics: Product production working characteristics are those characteristics which affect the quality of production with respect to quality values and the cost of production method. The working characteristics of a fabric include: Ÿ The coefficient of friction ( cutting, sewing, pressing and packing) Ÿ Sewed seam strength Ÿ Sewed seam slippage (yarn slippage) Ÿ Sewing distortions Ÿ Yarn severage Ÿ Bondability strength (fused, cemented, and heat – sealed seams Ÿ Pressing moldability (to what degree a flat piece of fabric may be skewed during pressing with hand and /press buck). Ÿ Die moldability – how well a flat seamless piece of fabric may be molded .
characteristics of Fabrics
Physical properties of Fabrics: Physical properties are the static physical dimensions of fabric. Ÿ Fiber or filament: type, size, length Ÿ Yarn: diameter, twist, weight or size, count, fiber content for mixed yarns, ply. Ÿ Weight: ounces per squared or yards per pound. Ÿ Thickness: vertical depth. Ÿ Fabric structure: woven fabrics: weave type, warp and filling yarn count per linear inch. Ÿ Knitted fabric: knit type, wale and course count per inch Ÿ Finishes: chemicals such as resins, starches, waxes and mechanical effects. Ÿ Fabric width: The length of the filling or course Ÿ Colour: Hue, value, and intensity Ÿ Fabric density: weight per unit of volume. Physical characteristics of fabrics: Physical characteristics are the dynamic physical parameters of fabric. They are physical changes in the fabric that result from applying outside forces on the fabric. There are four major categories of fabric characteristics that interest the apparel manufacturer. They are: Ÿ Style characteristics
Ÿ Utility characteristics Ÿ Durability characteristics Ÿ Product production characteristics
Style characteristics of a fabric: Style characteristics are those changes which affect the emotional appeal, the fabric imports to the consumer. Ÿ Hand characteristic – are the changes of the fabric plane with hand manipulations, which exert tensile compression, molding, or supporting forces on the fabric. Ÿ Tactile characteristics – refer to the changes in surface contour that result from a mechanical force exerted on or against the surface structure. Ÿ Visual characteristics – are the changes in the color values when either the fabric or light is moved. Utility Characteristics: The two major types of utility characteristics are transmission and transformation. Transmission characteristics include: Air permeability, Heat transmission, Light permeability, Moisture transmission, Radioactivity transmission (the degree with which radioactive energy such as x-ray and gamma rays can penetrate fabrics). 19
Strengths and Weaknesses Strenghts:
Weaknesses:
Ÿ Abundant Raw Material Availability
Ÿ Fragmented industry
Allowing the industry to control cost and reduce over all lead-times across the value chain. Ÿ Low Cost Skilled Labour Low cost skilled labour providing a distinct competitive advantage for the industry. Ÿ Presence across the value-chain Presence across the value-chain providing a competitive advantage when compared to countries likes Bangladesh, Srilanka, who have developed primarily as garmenters. Ÿ Reduced Lead-times: Manufacturing capacity present across the entire product range, enabling textile companies and garmenters do source their material locally and reduce lead-time. Ÿ Super Market: Ability to satisfy customer requirements across multiple product grades- small and large lot sizes specialized process treatments etc. Ÿ Growing Domestic Market Growing Domestic market which could allow manufacturers to mitigate risks while allowing them to build competitiveness.
Fragmented industry leading to lower ability to expand and emerge as world-class players. Ÿ Effect of Historical Government Policies Historical regulations thought relaxed continue to be an impediment to global competitiveness. Ÿ Lower Productivity and Cost Competitiveness - Labour force in India has a much lower productivity as compared to competing countries like china, Sri lanka etc. - The Indian industry lacks adequate economies of scale and is therefore unable to compete with china, and other countries etc. - Cost like indirect takes, power and interest are relatively high. Ÿ Technological Obsolescence - Large portion of the processing capacity is obsolete - While state of the art integrated textile mills exist majority of the capacity lies currently with the power loom sector. - This has also resulted in low value addition in the industry.
textile product categories Finished Garments : Ÿ Ÿ Ÿ Ÿ Ÿ Ÿ Ÿ Ÿ
Woven Knit (cut and sewn or circular) Sweaters Constructed garments Feather & Down, laminated Bounded, functional Denim / jeans Underwear
Trims & Accessories Ÿ Ÿ Ÿ Ÿ Ÿ Ÿ
Zippers Buttons Snaps Elastic Laces Fusing 21
Fabrics Ÿ Ÿ Ÿ Ÿ Ÿ Ÿ
Natural fibers: silk / cotton / wool & natural fibers blend Light silk fabrics (chiffon, charmeuse, voile) Greige and PFD Yarn dyed, all over print/ placed prints Synthetic Knits and heavy knits
Home Textiles Ÿ Ÿ Ÿ Ÿ
Bed wear (bed linen, bed covers, pillow cases…) Quilts Cushions Bathroom wear (terry, towels, bathrobes..)
Bags and Leather Ÿ Ÿ Ÿ Ÿ
Hand bags (textile and / or leather) Travel bags Suitcases Back packs
Footwear Ÿ Ÿ Ÿ Ÿ
Sport Casual Functional Formal men and women
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market study
A textile is any material made of interlacing fibres. A study of those companies which deals in Textile had to be studied to know it’s market. The company that were looked into for the study of textiles were : Ÿ Ÿ Ÿ
Sutlej Textiles Arvind limited Vardhman Textiles Limited
Ÿ A leading textile solutions provider, Sutlej Textiles and Industries
Ÿ Ÿ Ÿ
Ÿ
Limited produces a range of textile products that extends from yarns and fabrics to home furnishing. It processes one of the largest product portfolios of spun-dyed and cotton blended and cotton mélange & dyed yarns. Leveraging our understanding of the textile industry they entered the home textiles segment in 2006. Their product strategy involves engaging with downstream clients in early stages of product development life cycle, thereby strengthening business outcomes. Founded and promoted by the Late Dr. Krishna Kumar Birla, Sutlej Textiles and Industries is today the flagship textiles company of the illustrious KK Birla Group.
Ÿ The Beginning in 1897 at a time when there was
Ÿ In 1962 Vardhman Spinning & General Mills Ltd.
hardly any manufacturing activity in India, Lalbhai Dalpatbhai set up his first mill, the Saraspur Manufacturing Company. Ÿ Flying Machine, India’s first denim apparel brand, was launched to meet the aspirations of the emerging youth segment. Ÿ A r v i n d ’s – a n d I n d i a’s – fi r s t d e n i m manufacturing plant was commissioned at Naroda Road, Ahmedabad. Ÿ The Arvind Store was set up to house the best brands of Arvind under one roof.
(VSGML) was incorporated in Ludhiana, Punjab in 1962 by Shri V.S Oswal & Shri Ratan Chand Oswal. Ÿ The Company is one of the leading textile manufacturers of India having its presence across a wide spectrum, from manufacturing yarns to fabric. The Company is engaged in manufacturing of cotton yarn, synthetic yarn and woven fabric. Ÿ The Company expanded its product offerings and entered into strategic alliance with leading global textile players to gain access to state-ofthe-art technologies. 25
textile scenario in india
Ÿ India is now a fast emerging market inching to reach
half a billion middle income population by 2030. All these factors are good for the Indian textile industry in a long run. Ÿ Indian textile industry is one of the largest industries in
India. It is the second largest industry in terms of providing employment opportunities to more than 35 million people in the country. Ÿ
Bollywood movie starring Anushka Sharma and Varun Dhawan has brought back the traditional art forms of the handloom and textile industry. The film is based on 'Made in India' campaign launched by the Indian government, to promote the country's indigenous textiles.
Ÿ Indian Textile industry contributes to 7 per cent of
industrial output in terms of value, 2 per cent of India's GDP and to 15 per cent of country's export earnings. Ÿ The size of India's textile and apparel market recorded
USD 108.5 billion in 2015 and is expected to reach USD 226 billion by 2023, growing at a CAGR of 8.7 per cent between 2009 and 2023. Ÿ India is the second largest producer and exporter of
cotton in the world at $6.3 billion, marginally close to China.
타 Indian Textile Industry has some inherent strength:
-Tradition in Textiles and long operating experience -Large and growing domestic market -Strong raw material base -Production across entire textile value chain -Stable, low-risk economy, safe for business growth -Easy availability of abundant raw materials like cotton, wool, silk, jute -Widely prevalent social customs -Variety of distinct local culture -Constructive geographic and climatic conditions 타 The government has been implementing various policy
initiatives and programmes for development of textiles and handicrafts, particularly for technology, infrastructure creation, skill development, including: -Amended Technology Upgradation Funds Scheme (ATUFS) -PowerTex India Scheme -Scheme for Integrated Textile Parks 타 Prime minister Narendra Modi launched the 'Make in India'
campaign on September 25, 2014, to boost domestic manufacturing units. The aim of this campaign was to increase the contribution of manufacturing in GDP from 15 per cent to 25 per cent. 타 Technical textiles is among the most promising and fastest
growing areas of Indian textiles industry. 27
area of interest
khadi
introduction Ÿ Khadi – the word conjures up images of
Ÿ Khadi owes its revival to the Father of the Nation,
Mahatma Gandhi and the Swadeshi movement he led. For a long time khadi was associated with the country’s freedom struggle and politics. Here we take a look at its history, exploring the story and significance of this textile.
Mahatma Gandhi. He was the one who saw its potential as a tool to being self-reliant, independent and bringing villages back to life.
Ÿ Khadi is a term used for fabrics that are hand-
spun and handwoven, usually from cotton fiber. However, contrary to popular belief, khadi is also manufactured from silk and wool, known as khadi silk or woolen khadi respectively. The fabric is known for its rugged texture, comfortable feel and ability to keep people warm in winter while keeping them cool during the summer. Ÿ Khadi is manufactured in two steps: converting
the fiber into yarn using tools like spinning wheels (Charkha) and then weaving the yarn into fabric using looms. There are many steps like dyeing and strengthening of the fibers which can be explored. Both the spinning and weaving can be mechanized, resulting in hand-loom fabric when the first step is mechanized and mill-made fabric when both steps are mechanized.
Ÿ The spinning wheel represents to me the hope of
the masses. The masses lost their freedom, such as it was, with the loss of the Charkha. The Charkha supplemented the agriculture of the villagers and gave it dignity.’ Ÿ However, he soon understood that more than the
production and sale of this handwoven fabric, it’s the acceptance of the very fabric in our own daily lives that will bring the change. Gandhi made the Swadeshi Movement synonymous with khadi. He promoted its simplicity as a social equalizer and made it the nation’s fabric. Ÿ The ‘khadi spirit’ means fellow-feeling with every
human being on earth. It means a complete renunciation of everything that is likely to harm our fellow creatures, and if we but cultivate that spirit amongst the millions of our countrymen, what a land this India of ours would be! 29
Perception of khadi ‘The spinning wheel represents to me the hope of the masses. The masses lost their freedom, such as it was, with the loss of the Charkha. The Charkha supplemented the agriculture of the villagers and gave it dignity.’ The ‘khadi spirit’ means illimitable patience. For those who know anything about the production of khadi know how patiently the spinners and the weavers have to toil at their trade, and even so must we have patience while we are
spinning ‘the thread of Swaraj. Gandhi made the Swadeshi Movement synonymous with khadi. He promoted its simplicity as a social equalizer and made it the nation’s fabric. And the more I move about the country and the more I see the things for myself, the richer, the stronger is my faith growing in the capacity of the spinning wheel.’Hand spinning and hand weaving have been around for thousands of years.
then Introduced with the intention of boycotting foreign goods, khadi became a national movement under Gandhiji. All India Spinners Association was launched with the intention of propagation, production and the selling of khadi in 1925. Techniques were improved upon, and employment to the scale of two lakh was created. After independence, the movement continued, and the All India Khadi and Village Industries Board was created,which later culminated in the formation of Khadi, Village and Industries Commission. KVIC today is responsible for the planning, promotion, organization and implementation of programs for the development of khadi and other village industries in rural areas with the coordination of other
agencies in rural development wherever necessary. During the colonial rule in India, khadi was used as a weapon, creating the notion, as developed by Mahatma Gandhi that, “When one wears Khadi, he wears freedom. Persons who possess an attitude of simple and contented life, wear khadi. Back in 1940s, Khadi was perceived as a tool of defiance against the British Government. Mahatma Gandhi created an image of Khadi being symbolic of selfreliance and dignity. The idea behind khadi was to create a long lasting sustainable employment opportunity in rural areas to establish economic growth and stability.
Now
Since independence, the journey of khadi has been about maintaining a balance between traditions and modernity. Khadi stands for what’s traditional, but every tradition has to undergo change to stay relevant. Khadi has seen a new wave of acceptance thanks to many fashion designers like Sabyasachi Mukherjee, Ritu Kumar and Rohit Bal, to name a few. Brands like Fab India and Nature Alley have made their name with khadi products. Even KVIC has decided to take a time leap, appointing Ritu Beri as their advisor, who wishes to change khadi’s image from boring to chic. Promoting khadi’s organic and zero carbon footprint nature, going the e-commerce route, and partnering with non-khadi players like Raymonds are but a few welcome steps in this direction. Creation of new designs and products like denim, trousers, and T-shirts suited for youngsters have created a vibrancy in the market.
Per the Indian Flag Code, laws that govern the usage of flags in India, khadi is the only material allowed to be used for the flag. If a flying flag is made with any other material, the offense is punishable by law with imprisonment up to three years plus a fine. Ÿ In popular culture, the perception of Khadi has become synonymous with politicans and hence corruption, elderly people and the thinkers. Ÿ Between those who have embraced khadi as a style statement and those who associate with patriotism and political know-how, there is another class of people who are UNAWARE of khadi as a product or the concept it has come to emulate. Ÿ Khadi has become a trend, expressed by fashion designers who have begun to use it as a canvas to showcase their creations. Khadi has begun to reincarnate itself in the minds of people. 31
current market situation Ÿ The government is eyeing massive international
Ÿ Khadi has increased its fabric production by 38.30
Versatility makes it popular The versatile khadi fabric has the unique property of keeping the wearer warm in winter and cool in summer. It has a coarse texture and gets easily crumpled, and therefore, is starched to keep it firm and stiff. On washing, it is more enhanced; the more you wash it, the better is the look. Khadi does not easily wear out with a shelf life of at least four to five years. Attractive designer apparel is made by doing handwork on khadi garments.
million sq metres, registering 37.1 per cent growth, in the last four years.
Ÿ Khadi Denim, one of the most revolutionary and
Ÿ It made a jump from 103.22 million square metres
youth centric approaches to popularize and revive Khadi, was taken up by Arvind Ltd in 2011.
exposure for khadi by positioning it as an "Indian brand" which only the KVIC is entitled to promote or claim as its own, along with a bigger footprint in foreign missions and exhibitions, a senior official has said.The move may throw a spanner in the works of companies, especially foreign firms that are trying to register khadi as a trademark.
Ÿ
to 141.52 million sq metres. Ÿ With the youth of India, blindly following the Ÿ The credit goes to the Ministry of Micro, Small
and Medium Enterprises, which outlined and implemented many policies and programmes to attract the artisans which is backbone of Khadi sector.
ramps and walks of the western fashion, as khadi develops an international market, the youth are bound to wake-up and take pride in their own fashion heritage. Ÿ Designers, like Wendell Rodericks and Rohit Bal
Ÿ
Textile corporates like Raymonds, Arvind Mills and Aditya Birla Textiles in the Khadi sector for its marketing, which increased Khadi sales manifold.
have launched khadi lines too. It is soon becoming a trend in the fashion industry. 31
Brand study
khadi
fab india
Gramodaya Ashram is an institution registered under Khadi & Village Industries Commission since 1963. Gramodaya Ashram was set up by Late Mr. Sugrive Singh in 1963. From last ďŹ ve decades institution is trying to help village people; partially or fully for employment at their own places. The motive of institution is to publicise Khadi and its activities to keep their inspiration source Gandhi Bapu's reections alive. The Institution is active with attitude to avail indigenous products in local market and to let people live with proud by self employment.
Fabindia is India's largest private platform for products that are made from traditional techniques, skills and hand-based processes. Fabindia links over 55,000 craft based rural producers to modern urban markets, thereby creating a base for skilled, sustainable rural employment, and preserving India's traditional handicrafts in the process. The products are natural, craft based, contemporary, and aordable.
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Tools and raw materials
The main raw materials used for making the khadi products are noolu (local language), which means cotton. A cotton unit is set up in Chitradurga where the cotton threads are purchased and used for weaving. the cotton used for the production are 100% pure. The rocket or flying shuttle is called as Lali (local language), the different varieties of dye colors are used for the process such as red color, nitrate, caustic and sulphate. Below listed are the tools and raw materials used for the production of Khadi products:• Kai-Magga (Handloom) - Used to weave the cloth. • Kandik (Bullet) - Used to spin the yarn. • Warp Beam - Use to wound the warped yarn on the beam, which is attached to the loom. • Noolu (yarn) - Are the foremost raw material used for making khadi products • Creel machine - Are used for warping the threads.
Initially Raw cotton is taken to dyeing process. The process of dyeing includes two methods, hand dyeing and machine dyeing. Hand dyeing - 20 gram of chemical dye (nitrate, caustic, sulphate) is added in 5litres of water with 10 gram of acid. Machine dyeing - 35kgs of threads and 600gms of color is added to 100litres of water. The proportion of hand and machine dyeing differs. To get double color, the threads are tied and covered with tape to required areas. The uncovered areas of threads are dyed. The added solution is heated for few minutes. And the dyed cotton threads are dried in drying machine for about 15 minutes and taken to spinning process. The cotton threads are wound on plastic cones locally known as Hanji cone and turned into the spindle. The yarns from the spindle are wound on to the bobbins, which are then fixed to the creels for warping. Later it’s fixed on to the loom for weaving process. Different colors of threads are used to create the designs patterns. The cotton is mixed with 33% of polyester to make smooth, durable and shine. The polyester is added only while preparing trousers and shirt fabric.
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