Africa & Middle East Textiles issue 2 2012

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ISSUE TWO/2012 DEUXIEME EDITION/2012

Spotlight on Tunisia and Morocco ITMA Asia + CITME 2012 preview Machinery sector update Pleins feux sur la Tunisie et le Maroc Prévue D’ITMA Asie + CITME 2012 Mis à jour du secteur de machines

Brother GT-3 Series printer

Printing trends and developments/ Tendances et développements d'impression

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CONTENTS DEVELOPMENTS

4

News of recent textile projects, markets, contracts

DEVELOPPEMENTS

4

Revue des récents projets textiles, marchés, contrats et compagnies

SPOTLIGHT ON TUNISIA AND MOROCCO

6

A look at the Tunisia and Morocco textile sectors

PLEINS FEUX SUR LA TUNISIA ET LE MAROC

6

Un regard aux secteurs de textile de la Tunisie et du Maroc

TEXTILE PRINTING

10

Advancements in screen and digital printing

IMPRESSION DES TEXTILES

10

Les avancements de la sérigraphie et impression numérique

DYES AND CHEMICALS

13

Dyebath monitoring aids right-first-time dyeing

COLORANTS ET PRODUITS CHIMIQUES

13

La surveillance du bain de teinture aide à obtenir une teinture réussie dès la première fois

ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012 PREVIEW

17

Stage set for Asia’s biggest textile machinery trade expo

PRÉVUE D’ITMA ASIE + CITME 2012

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Tout est prêt pour l'expo commercial de machines textiles le plus grand en Asie

TEXTILE MACHINERY

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Global shipments of new textile machinery sees surge

MACHINES DE TEXTILE

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Hausse de chargements mondiales de nouvelles machines de textile

APPAREL AFRICA

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Fabric testing – a constantly evolving science

REVUE D’HABILLEMENT

20

Machines de contrôle – une science en développement incessant

Couverture: Impression de tissus numérique Inset: Machine d'impression de la Série GT-3 de Brother

Cover: Digital textile printing Inset: Brother GT-3 Series printer

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TEXTILE NEWS Global cotton trade likely to rise by 13 per cent GLOBAL TRADE IN cotton is expected to rise by 13 per cent to 8.6 million metric tons this season, driven mostly by record imports from China, the International Cotton Advisory Committee (ICAC) said recently.

A surge in imports by China has reduced the amount of cotton available in the rest of the world in the 2011-12 season, which ends July 31, the ICAC said.

While stocks in China are expected to more than double to 5 million tons in 2011-12, stocks in the rest of the world will likely increase at a more moderate rate of 14 per cent to 8.1 million tons, it said, estimating 2011-12 ending stocks at about 13.1 million tons.

In 2012-13 global production will likely outpace consumption again and global stocks are expected to increase by about 9 per cent to 14.3 million tons, it said.

New general manager for Mulungushi Textiles THE ZAMBIAN GOVERNMENT has appointed a general manager for Mulungushi Textiles in Kabwe, the country’s capital, as a first step towards reviving operations of the firm previously run as a joint venture with China.

Defence Minister Geoffrey Mwamba said, in an interview with the Times of Zambia news daily, that BrigadierGeneral Ken Mulenga from Zambia National Service (ZNS) would head the textile firm which was closed in 2007. The massive structure on the Great North Road has been lying idle while some parts have fallen apart after the Chinese pulled out of the joint venture.

“We’ve appointed a general manager to oversee the operations of the closed textiles which in the past raised concerns,” Mwamba was quoted as saying by the Times of Zambia.

TEXTILE CALENDAR / CALENDRIER June 2012 1-4

ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012

SHANGHAI, CHINA

www.itmaasia.com 7-10

OFPANZ Conference and Trade Expo

QUEENSTOWN, NEW ZEALAND

www.ifai.com 13 - 15

ANEX 2012 - Asia Nonwovens Exhibition and Conference

SEOUL, KOREA

www.anex2012.com 13 -14

Citext Europe 2012

TROYES, FRANCE

www.citext.fr 21 - 24

GFT 2012

BANGKOK, THAILAND

www.garmenttextile.com

July 2012 24 -26

International Apparel Sourcing Show

NEW YORK, USA

www.apparelsourcingshow.com 24-26

Texworld USA

NEW YORK, USA

www.texworldusa.com/

August 2012 28-30

Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles - Autumn edition

SHANGHAI, CHINA

www.messefrankfurt.com.hk

September 2012 6-8

SPINEXPO™ Shanghai

SHANGHAI, CHINA

www.spinexpo.com/shanghai 13-16

4th Islamic Fashion, Apparel and Accessories Fair

STANBUL, TURKEY

www.demosfuar.com.tr.

DyStar joins United Nations Global Compact DYSTAR HAS JOINED the United Nations Global Compact (UNGC) with the objective of strengthening the Group’s commitment towards sustainability.

Further building on its environmental and social accountability, DyStar would adopt this globally recognized policy framework for the development, implementation, and disclosure of environmental, social, and governance policies and practices within the company with the objective of strengthening its commitment towards sustainability.

Signing the Letter of Commitment, Harry Dobrowolski, CEO & President of the DyStar Group said, “Our membership of the United Nations Global Compact signifies our commitment to adopt more positive and sustainable practices in our daily operations through innovation, commerce, technology and services that benefits the economies and societies worldwide.”

October 2012 3-6

IGATEX Pakistan 2012

LAHORE, PAKISTAN

www.igatex.pk 22 - 24

Cinte Techtextil China

SHANGHAI, CHINA

www.messefrankfurt.com.hk 22-24

China International Knitting Trade Fair

SHANGHAI, CHINA

www.chinaknitting.com.cn

November 2012 4-6

ITMF Annual Conference 2012

HANOI, VIETNAM

wwww.itmf.org 7-9

5th International Technical Textiles Congress

IZMIR, TURKEY

http://web.deu.edu.tr/ttk2012 13- 15

Filtration International Conference & Exposition

PHILADELPHIA, USA

www.inda.org

DECEMBER 2012

New regulations for textiles imports into Egypt THE EGYPTIAN MINISTRY of Trade and Industry (MFTI) has issued a ministerial decree requiring an inspection certificate for imported Textile and Leather goods. Shipments must be inspected and certified by an ISO 17020 recognized body which is approved and registered by General Organization for Import and Export Control Egypt (GOIEC).

Failing such an inspection certificate, products will be forbidden to enter the Egyptian market. This regulation came into force in April 2012.

The significant increase of textile product exports and the newly enforced inspection certificate requirement for imported textile and leather products has created an increased demand for consumer products testing services in the region.

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2-7

India ITME 2012 - 9th India International Textile Machinery Exhibition

MUMBAI, INDIA

www.india-itme.com

MARCH 2013 1

Outlook Asia 2013

NEW DELHI, INDIA

www.edana.org 28-30

MEGATECH Pakistan 2013

LAHORE, PAKISTAN

www.megatechpakistan.com

Further information on these events can usually be obtained from the Embassy (Commercial Office) of the country in question.

Des renseignements plus complets sur ces évènements peuvent être demandés de l’Ambassade (Bureau Commerciel) du pays en question

AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO/2012

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TEXTILE NEWS ‘Infrastructure development key to attracting textile investments in Africa’

Iranian scientists develop new non-toxic pigment for textile industry

ETHIOPIAN PRIME MINISTER Meles Zenawi has urged African countries to focus more on infrastructure development to derive maximum benefits from the textiles industry.

Speaking at the recently-held Origin Africa 2012-Ethiopia textile trade expo in Addis Ababa, Meles said the continent had vast untapped textile resources that can spur rapid economic growth.

“Africa has natural resources and cheap labour, which enable it to do the work required in the industry,” Meles said.

The event was successful in bringing together decision makers Ethiopian Prime Minister Meles Zenawi and entrepreneurs from 20 African countries and served as an ideal platform for global buyers to make contacts with African industry and designers and to boost business.

The expo also saw participation from over 60 exhibitors from Africa, India, China, the US and the EU, covering the entire textile and apparel supply chain including fibres, fabrics, home textiles and fashion accessories.

The four-day expo was organized by African Cotton and Textile Manufacturers Federation (ACTIF), in collaboration with the Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute (TIDI) and the Ethiopian Textile and Garments and Manufacturing Association (ETGAMA).

Iranian researchers Tarbiat Modarres University, in collaboration with the Institute for Color Science and Technology, have successfully developed hematite nano-capsule as a non-toxic red pigment to be used in textile industry.

“Cadmium sulphoselenide-zirconium inclusion red pigments were produced as the commercial red color due to the extreme need of textile industries. However, cadmium sulphoselenide is very toxic and harmful.

Results of international studies show that hematite is the best option,” Maryam Hosseini Zari, a member of the Scientific Board of Institute for Color Science and Technology, said.

Nano-capsule or inclusion red pigments are new generation of pigments. These pigments, also known as non-similar or occluded pigments, are formed by placing the known and unstable pigments in a bed of stable phases.

Dr. Hosseini explained how the nano-capsules were synthesized, and said, “We used co-precipitation synthesis method and also available industrial raw materials. We firstly determined the formulation and the weight, produced solutions containing the desirable ions with appropriate concentrations, and finally, we produced the precipitator solution.”

“Next, the solution containing iron ion reacted with the precipitator solution within the solution containing silisium ion under the controlled temperature and other operational parameters. Mineralisers and additives play key role in the production of the product.”

The complementary research was carried out in Modena University, Italy.

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FOCUS ON TUNISIA AND MOROCCO

Tunisia, Morocco on recovery path

The period 2009-10 was a tough one for textile and clothing exporters. However, Northwest Africa managed to survive and both its EU and US sales are now back on track

W

TO’s recently released trade statistics* reveals how bad conditions for most textile and clothing exporters were in 2009 and 2010.

Global trade in textiles slumped from US$248.41 bn in 2008 to just $209.82 bn the following year, recovering to US$250.65bn in 2010.

Clothing trade fell from $363.62 bn to $315.52 bn, again bouncing back to US$351.46bn in 2010. High oil prices and their depressing effect on world economic activity were widely seen as the cause. Few exporters were immune, and certainly not the two top textile and clothing exporting countries of Northwest Africa, Morocco and Tunisia.

For these rival producers, the final export totals in millions of US$ were as follows, with ‘significant others’ – many of which did much better than the northwestern twins, Egypt in both industries especially – listed alongside:

Morocco – textiles Morocco – clothing Tunisia – textiles Tunisia – clothing Egypt – textiles Egypt – clothing China – textiles China – clothing Turkey – textiles Turkey – clothing

2008 330 3420 478 3766 759 773 65367 120405 9396 13590

2009 305 3080 395 3120 1019 1320 59824 107264 7723 11565

2010 267 2743 463 3043 1292 1277 76900 129838 8964 12760

However, the good news is that, according to first-half 2011 export totals monitored by the national trade associations AMITH (Morocco) and FENATEX (Tunisia) respectively, business in industrial sectors in both countries picked up sharply; indeed sales to the critical West European

6

(EU) markets were already on the rise before the end of 2010. Indications for 2012 are similarly promising, encouraged very much by the real progress that has been made in sorting out the stability and reputation of the single European (euro) currency.

Also, from a national balance of payments point of view, conditions are moving in the right direction, in both countries too. Dependence on these key employment-providing industries is on the way, with Morocco’s total dependence on both halves of the industry falling from 34 per cent of merchandise exports in 2000 to just 17.1 per cent in 2010. Phosphates, pharmaceutical products and high-tech engineering have made up much of the difference.

Indications for 2012 are promising, encouraged very much by the real progress that has been made in sorting out the stability and reputation of the single European (euro) currency In the case of Tunisia, the comparable dependency figures are even more dramatically down over the decade, from 40.7 per cent to 21.3 per cent, with growth of exports of automotive components, chemicals and processed foods compensating for the most of this decline. In both cases, tourism receipts have been on the rise too, and it has been clothing exports that suffered most, with this factor being very evident in the provisional 2011 figures recorded so far. The effects of the ‘Arab Spring’ have still to be seen in the results, of course.

Morocco, the junior partner in this textile/clothing rivalry (just), is still clearly recovering from the 2008/09 business downturn, depending heavily

AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO/2012

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FOCUS ON TUNISIA AND MOROCCO on sales of denim– and knitwear to France, Spain and the UK especially.

Clothing remains the Kingdom’s number-one industrial employer, with substantial state funds allocated to promoting R&D in the largely privatelyrun industry (design particularly) in order to keep ahead of rivals in terms of competitiveness near and far. The short-sea ferry route to Europe is a particular advantage. So is the level of foreign investment, especially from Europe, in the industry.

Tunisia is often seen as the economic powerhouse of North Africa, repeatedly coming top, or near to it, of the African continent as a whole in terms of industrial competitiveness Tunisia is often seen as the economic powerhouse of North Africa, repeatedly coming top, or near to it, of the African continent as a whole in terms of industrial competitiveness. The Arab Spring of course started here; it continues elsewhere but economic conditions were swiftly remodelled in the case of this high-tech (in terms of information and communications technologies) country, and the recent output of the textile and clothing industries seems to have been more affected by turmoil on the world markets than the changed conditions at home. The level of foreign participation in Tunisia’s textile and clothing industries is notably high, too, and this very progressive country is a particularly attractive target for foreign direct investment from Asian countries, where Tunisia’s welltrained workforce is highly respected, as is the quick turnaround ‘just in time’ conditions for exports to Europe.

Egypt textile delegation visits Sweden A DELEGATION OF Egyptian textile industry insiders visited Sweden recently to explore opportunities for bilateral cooperation in the field.

The visit is one of the initiatives launched by the Swedish Embassy in Cairo and the Swedish Trade Council to enhance trade relations between the two countries, the embassy said in a statement.

Hammam Abdel Khalek, representative of the Arab Development Company, said the group got to network with their Swedish counterparts. “We made very interesting contacts with the Swedish side, which should lead to concrete business in the near future" Speaking at the Egyptian-Swedish Textile Seminar in Gothenburg, Swedish Minister of Trade Ewa Björling said she saw great potential for bilateral trade relations.

“I believe international trade has an important role to play in these challenging times. For Sweden, free trade is cornerstone of our foreign and trade policy,” she said.

“Swedish prosperity is built on international trade and the ability of our companies to compete on global markets,” she added.

More than 40 experts and entrepreneurs from the Swedish and Egyptian textile sector gathered in Gothenburg to explore ways to collaborate and open new a market for the Egyptian cotton and ready-made garments, according to the statement.

Participants took field visits to Swedish department stores like Nordstan Shopping Center and Nordiska Kompaniet (NK), to get an idea of the standards of the local market. They visited Borås, the textile hub of Sweden with half of the country’s textile production, where they met importers as well as fashion companies and textile organizations.

"I was really impressed by the high capacity that the Egyptian companies show in the textile field," said Ingrid Lang, representative of Prima Salto in Sweden.

AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO/2012

Tunisia’s well-trained workforce is highly respected, as is the quick turnaround ‘just in time’ conditions for exports to Europe

It has been those prosperous European markets that set the pace for textile and clothing exports in both countries in recent years, and these happily seem to be firmly on the mend now. Throughout the crisis sales to North America sailed along relatively unperturbed, but in both national cases reviewed here these are much smaller in both volume and number.

The bottom line is that Morocco and Tunisia have certainly had a tough time over the last three years, but the textile and clothing industries of both countries were well prepared for a downturn anyway – the earlier ending of the Multi Fibre Arrangement provided plenty of warning – and recovery seems to be firmly established now.  *International Trade Statistics 2011, www.wto.org

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TEXTILE NEWS Ghanaian textile majors ink pact to boost cotton cultivation GHANA GOVERNMENT’S COMMITMENT to revive the cotton industry recently received a boost when three companies signed a business agreement with the assurance to cotton farmers that their labour and investment would yield dividend.

The companies Textyles Ghana Limited (TSG), Volta Star Textiles Limited (VSTL) and Wienco Ghana Limited (Wienco), by their business partnership, are expected to strengthen value addition to local raw materials and enhance production in the textile industry.

By the agreement, TSG would be expected to buy one million cotton lint produced by Ghanaian farmers for VSTL to convert it into six million yards of grey cloth.

Wienco, which had already been granted a zone in the Upper East Region in 2011 where it had supported 7,000 farmers both technically and financially, gave the assurance that it would double the acreage under cultivation to produce enough cotton locally to feed the textile industry.

Speaking at a press conference organised in Accra by the Ministry of Trade and Industry recently, Daniel Van Wassenhove, Technical Director of TSG, expressed the hope that the partnership would help to revive and sustain the textile industry.

He said, “We believe that with this ‘Made in Ghana’ approach, we really are adding value to the Ghanaian society in creating jobs from the cotton

farmer through the grey cloth manufacturing up to the dyeing and printing of African textiles.”

Wassenhove appealed to the Government to grant the company a “deferment of Value Added Tax and National Health Insurance Levy payment” to cover raw cotton purchase.

The pact is expected to strengthen value addition to local raw materials and enhance production in the textile industry

Evans Agyagbo, Acting Technical Director of VSTL, said by virtue of the partnership, the company’s plant capacity utilisation would increase from the current 10 per cent to 30 per cent this year.

“The factory will engage additional hands in its catchment area. There will be an improvement in VSTL’s financial position and the company’s

Biotechnology can increase cotton production in Nigeria: Expert THE USE OF biotech cotton seeds can give better yields than non-biotech hybrid varieties currently grown in Nigeria, according to an expert Speaking at an open forum on agricultural biotechnology in Africa, Professor Bamidele Solomon, Director General of National Biotechnology Development Agency (NABDA) said the production of cotton in Nigeria has declined to 120,000 tons per annum, which is less than half of over 300,000 tons per annum once produced in Nigeria.

Solomon suggested the use of biotechnology to increase cotton production and thereby to revamp the ailing Nigerian textile industry.

He stated that according to a latest report, field trails in India have shown that Bt cotton hybrids give 80 per cent greater yield than nonbiotech hybrids.

He said the use of Bt cotton seeds would enhance profits for cotton growers and more farmers would be interested in growing the crop, which would in turn increase the availability of raw material to the Nigerian textile industry.

In the 1970s and 1980s, there were more than 250 textile manufacturing units in Nigeria, employing millions of people. In comparison, there are less than 25 units at present which are operating at around 40 per cent of their production capacity employing only a few people, he stated.

Solomon said the Nigerian textile industry has been severely affected owing to high operating cost and the fascination of Nigerians towards imported textile materials, but abundant supply of raw material can revive Nigerian textile industry.

8

contribution to the Ghanaian economy will improve through payee tax mobilisation, VAT and Social Security and National Insurance Trust contributions,” he said.

Daniel Ruegg, CEO of Wienco, said the time had come to develop a new momentum in the textile industry in Ghana, starting from the production of cotton to the sale of textiles made in Ghana.

Hanna Tetteh, Minister of Trade and Industry, expressed the hope that the revival and sustenance of the cotton industry would soon make Ghana to become a net exporter of cotton.

The North-Eastern Zone has been allocated to Wienco, in partnership with Geo-Cotton and it is said to cover Kasina-Nankana, Tongo/Nabdam, Bawku West, Bawku Municipality, Garu-Tempani, Bongo and Builsa.

Others are West Mamprusi, East Mamprusi, Buunkpurugu, Gushiegu, Saboba, Chereponi and Zubzugu.

Olam Ghana Limited had also been allocated the North-Western Zone, covering Sissala East, Sissala West, Jirapa, Lambussie/Karni, Lawra, Nadowli, Wa East and Wa West Districts and Wa Municipality.

Plexus in partnership with Amajaro Ghana Limited was allocated the North-Central Zone, which comprised Savelugu, Tolon/Kumbungu, Bimbilla, Wullensi, Salaga, Bole, Damongo, Buipe, Sawla-Tuna-Kalba and Kpandai districts as well as Yendi Municipality and the Tamale Metropolis.

India urges Kenya to slash duties on textile imports INDIA HAS URGED Kenya to reduce duties on imports of textiles, especially man-made fibres, from the country.

During a meeting with his Kenyan counterpart Chirauli Mwakwere in India recently, Indian Commerce and Industry Minister Anand Sharma said the high taxes imposed by Kenyan government affected bilateral trade between the two countries.

Kenya imposes high import tariffs on imports of manmade fibre textile items from India. On yarn and fabrics, it imposes import duties of up to 25 per cent, while on manmade fibre textiles the duties go up to 50 per cent. In addition to this, Kenya also imposes 16 percent Value Indian Commerce Minister Anand Sharma with his Added Tax (VAT) on imports.

Kenyan counterpart Chirauli Mwakwere Sharma, who is also the minister for textiles, invited Kenyan entrepreneurs to invest in India's textiles sector.

He pointed out that up to 100 per cent foreign direct investment was allowed in the textiles sector through the automatic route.

Sharma also stressed on the need for greater cooperation among the trade bodies and business chambers of the two countries to facilitate growth in textile trade.

India's textiles exports to Kenya rose to US$100 million in 2010 against US$77 million in the previous year.

AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO/2012

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TEXTILE NEWS Bayer’s innovative mosquito nets now available in Africa polypropylene net, with deltamethrin incorporated BAYER CROPSCIENCE’S innovative LifeNet™ deep into the fiber providing a unique combination of mosquito nets are now available. The company has efficacy, strength and softness – a new tool in the fight received all necessary regulatory approvals for large against malaria,” added Nadim Mohr, Commercial scale production.

Operations Manager at Bayer Environmental Science As a first step, the delivery of millions of LifeNet™ and responsible for Sub-Saharan Africa. “LifeNet™ is mosquito nets is about to start in African countries to support their ongoing fight against malaria.

Registrations have been received in Malawi, Namibia and Zambia with further registrations pending. LifeNet™ represents a longerlasting, user-friendly alternative to currently available nets.

Malaria, still one of the world’s deadliest diseases, has been eliminated in some parts of the world. Yet in certain parts of Sub-Saharan Africa, malaria infections have increased over the last three decades. According to the WHO, populations living in this region have the highest risk of acquiring malaria.

Malaria significantly affects the quality of life of communities and impacts local LifeNet™ is said to be the world s first long-lasting polypropylene net– a new economies by reducing the income of tool in the fight against malaria individuals and families, thus slowing the first net which is recognized by the World Health economic growth. Malaria also threatens food security Organization to be effective even after 30 washes – and rural development in already deprived regions, e.g. providing more, effective nights of protection.” by causing losses in agricultural production.

In keeping with the company s commitment to “Our motivation was to set a new standard in bednet sustainable development, LifeNet™ was created with durability and to thereby increase the impact of an emphasis on ensuring a responsible social, malaria control programs for the benefit of those in economic and environmental impact. It supports the need,” said Dr. Gunnar Riemann, Head of Bayer sustainable development of African countries CropScience s Environmental Science Division. threatened by this controllable disease.

“LifeNet™ is the world s first long-lasting

Mauritius, Zambia seek AGOA textile rule extension THE AMBASSADORS OF Mauritius and Zambia to the US have made a joint appeal to the US Congress to extend the thirdcountry fabric provision under the African Growth Opportunities Act (AGOA) for the benefit of workers and businesses in the African countries as well as in the US. The passage of legislations S. 2007 and H.R. 2493 would enable the US to continue to receive highquality textiles and apparels from Africa at competitive prices.

The third-country fabric rule allows AGOA beneficiary countries to use yarns and fabrics from any country in the manufacturing of their textiles and clothing for export to the US at zero-duty.

The provision has been the main driver behind the growth of the African apparel industry under AGOA. It makes up 95 per cent of AGOA garment trade and has helped African exporters to offer their products to the US at competitive prices.

Brother launches new GT-3 series digital garment printers BROTHER HAS LAUNCHED its new GT-3 Series of digital garment printers.

The GT-3 Series will replace the Brother GT-541 and GT-782 models.

The GT-3 Series consists of an initial line-up of three modular models allowing buyers to upgrade as their business grows. This series of three machines offers a CMYK-only printer, a CMYK with two white print heads, and a CMYK with four white print heads for higher speed and performance.

“Designed using over five years of customer feedback within Europe, USA and Australia with garment printers, the new GT-3 Series of digital garment printers delivers a suite of advanced features for all garment printing needs. It is faster than competitor machines and will be competitively priced,” said Heiner Rupperath, Product Manager for Industrial Printing Machines at Brother.

Some of the major features listed out in the company press release include: • Up to 1200 dpi, allowing photographic quality printing • Up to eight print heads for faster throughput • One pass printing with both CMYK and white ink printing simultaneously for higher productivity • USB memory stick compatibility to load designs without a computer • Ink cartridge system designed to provide consistent, high-quality printing • Compact size for versatility in many work environments, including storefront • Simple user interface without the need for RIP software • Inks certified by Oeko-Tex Standard 100 “Brother integrates their core technology and know-how into the new GT-3 Series of digital garment printers by manufacturing the printer and other critical components like print heads, controller and the software all by

AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO/2012

themselves. Coupled with the new genuine Brother® ink formulation, this ensures a fully integrated system compared to that of many competitors who are merely ‘assemblers’ of garment printers. All in all, this makes the new Brother GT-3 series of digital garment printers Brother’s finest product line so far,” Rupperath said

Brother GT-3 series digital garment printer

“We took part in six exhibitions in February alone and reached so many interested customers who all confirmed that Brother’s new garment printer series would be a leading innovation in the field of digital direct to garment printing,” Rupperath added.

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TEXTILE PRINTING

Advancements in screen and digital printing T

HE TEXTILE PRINTING sector is still predominantly based on screen printing, especially rotary screen printing for long production runs. The machine technology for rotary screen printing has been developed to a very high level, but in the actual screen technology developments are still emerging.

At the last ITMA 2011 show in Barcelona, Stork Prints (Netherlands) introduced a new NovaScreen® type to the textile screen printing sector.

This supplements the existing range of Nova screens which comprise Nova 135, Nova 165 and Nova 195. The differences between these three types of electroformed nickel screens are given in Table 1.

Table 1 NovaScreen Type Nova 135 Nova 165 Nova 195

Details of NovaScreens® (Stork Prints) Thickness 120 115 115

Open Area (micron) 22% 19% 16%

Hole size (micron) 88 67 52

penetrative printing, as required for printing reactive dyestuffs.

The printability using the 19 per cent open area NovaScreen 195 is improved and less printing pressure is required to achieve a good coverage of the fabric. Being able to control the print formation at the fabric surface is an advantage for pigment printing because, by avoiding penetration into the fabric, a higher colour yield and a softer handle may be attained. A wider hole size ensures that in reactive printing complete print-through can be achieved via a high paste volume. The NovaScreen 165-19%, which has a hole size of 67 microns compared with 52 microns for the NovaScreen 165-16%, has a higher open area and can deliver really deep and full shades because of the high paste volume delivered.

In a separate development, Stork Prints introduced another new screen type, namely the RM random mesh design. While the hole size is 79 microns, as in the existing Stork Prints PentaScreen 125, and the number of holes comparable to the PentaScreen 125, the hole shapes are now more streamlined. This results in a slightly higher paste flow and delivery giving a significantly improved printability.

A significant feature of the new Random Raster screen (RR125) is the ability to avoid moiré effects in screen printing. Moiré can occur when a screen regular mesh structure and a line raster’s grid structure meet. The two regular structures give rise to interference effects which then leads to the appearance of a new, third pattern, typically a moiré effect often observed as a diagonal striping pattern.

The new Random Raster screen avoids moiré effects because the holes are not arranged in straight lines as in conventional screens. In the Random

The relationship between open area/mesh count and screen thickness is close because of the growth of nickel during the process of screen manufacture. During screen manufacture, the nickel grows from the mandrel—both to the top and the sides. Thus the open area decreases with a higher mesh count and a higher screen thickness.

Stork Prints are experts at electroforming nickel for screen manufacture and have developed their screen making technology by steering the nickel growth mainly in the top direction. This ensures that the dam shape in the screen stays thin and becomes streamlined. In this way, Stork Prints have been able to extend the boundaries in rotary screen printing by changing the ratio between hole size/mesh count and screen thickness. This resulted in a new Nova screen, the NovaScreen 195-19%, which has an increased open area for a given mesh size compared with previous Nova screens. The Nova Screen 195-19% has a thickness of 115 microns, a hole size of 57 microns and an increased open area, now of 19 per cent.

Stork Prints assert that the novel design of this NovaScreen 195-19% allows better control of the transfer of the print paste to the fabric. This specific screen design allows the paste flows of adjacent holes to join together to achieve an even spread of paste on the fabric. The NovaScreen 195-19% can be utilised to keep the print paste on the surface of the fabric, as required for pigment printing, by applying low shear stress inside the screen.

J-Next Subly JXS-65 dye sublimation digital In addition, by appropriate control of the print inks based on cyan, magenta, yellow and parameters it is also possible to carry out absolute black are suitable for print

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TEXTILE PRINTING

Stork MS LaRIO machine

New digital printing machines rely on advanced print head technology coupled with developments in ink formulations to control the dot produced. For high digital printing speeds, the inkjet head firing frequency must be high. This has led to changes in ink formulations because the new generation of inks now are based on a higher ink viscosity Raster screen, the position of each hole is slightly out of line which ensures that the regularity is disrupted, avoiding the appearance of the third (moirĂŠ) pattern. The new RR125 screen from Stork Prints also avoids the problems of rosette patterns formed where circles of raster dots are arranged around a centre dot. This rosette pattern effect disturbs geometrical raster designs typically when imaging a weave or a bark structure. The higher paste flow in the RR125 screen leads to smoother dots and gives softer half-tone impressions as well as more contrast in raster areas which provides a more relief-like appearance in geometrical raster patterns.

Major developments The digital printing area continues to develop at a considerable rate.

Great interest was shown at ITMA 2011 in the latest developments exhibited in Hall 7 by textile printers from India, Brazil and Turkey. China, of course, dominates the global total traditional textile printing market of around 27 billion sqm, with 30 per cent of the production. India (17.5 per cent), other Asian countries (18.8 per cent), Americas (12.9 per cent) and

Europe, Russia, CIS countries (11.1 per cent). At present, Middle East and African countries only produce some 9.7 per cent of the traditional textile printing market, and moving into digital printing to exploit print opportunities outside the dominant rotary screen printing area could prove to be a shrewd move for many textile printers in these regions.

The major developments in digital ink jet printing are based upon industrial piezo print heads that are making a high print production rate possible. In addition, the price of printing inks has come down making it more feasible for digital printing to match the cost per square metre of screen printing for small to medium production runs.

There are now a number of high speed print heads for inkjet printing of textiles. Some of the high speed digital printers featured at ITMA 2011 include the Hangzhou Honghua Vega 600-16, La Meccanica Qualijet K16, MS Italy JP Series and LaRIO, Reggiani ReNOIR EVO and the Stork Prints Sphene 24.

However, there are also many other print heads available on other high speed digital printers. These include the Durst Kappa 180 which uses the

The RAILS to your SUCCESS

Osthoff-Senge Gmbh & Co. Kg Essener Strasse 62, D-42327 Wuppertal Phone: +49 202 74 847 0 Fax: +49 202 74 847 99 email: info@osthoff-senge.com www.osthoff-senge.com

AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO/2012

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TEXTILE PRINTING

Xennia Technology's Osiris high speed digital printing system

Ricoh Gen 4 head, Konica Minolta Nassenger Pro 1000 (KM 1024 head), Robustelli Monna Lisa EVO (Epson DX5 head) and the Zimmer Colaris (Seiko 508GS head).

Xennia Technologies also have their Osiris and Emerald printers while Mimaki also has its TX 600-1800 concept machine.

These new digital printing machines rely on advanced print head technology coupled with developments in ink formulations to control the dot produced. For high digital printing speeds, the inkjet head firing frequency must be high.

This has led to changes in ink formulations because the new generation of inks now are based on a higher ink viscosity. In the recent past, ink viscosities have increased from 35mPas to 7-15mPas. This increase in ink viscosity has been achieved by the addition of glycols to achieve 10-15mPas but has had an important side effect. Essentially, the relative amounts of colorants in the ink formulation have been decreased with a negative impact on print quality. There is thus a reduction in the imagecolour vibrancy coupled with poor drying behaviour of the inks into the substrates as a consequence of the heavy glycol content.

To overcome these disadvantages, Sawgrass Technologies has developed and patented novel water-based inks for high speed inkjet printing conditions. The Sawgrass inks under the brand name RMI (Rheological Modified Inks) ensure high speed digital printing under extreme firing frequencies, delivering higher colour vibrancy and controlled drying behaviour of the inks into the substrates. This has been achieved by incorporating different chemical families termed

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RM which are compatible with the original inks and which change the rheological behaviour of the inks under high shear environments.

Newtonian rheology Current ink formulations exhibit Newtonian rheology, where viscosity remains constant irrespective of the shear rate. However Sawgrass Technologies RM inks exhibit Non-Newtonian Pseudoplastic behaviour. Thus the ink viscosity decreases with increase in the shear rate, which is called shear-thinning effect. As a result of this phenomenon, the RMI ink fluid forms coaxial cylindrical layers under high shear conditions e.g. under high frequency firing of the inkjet. In this way, there is a greater ability to control dot formation.

The innovative Sawgrass Technologies’ water-based RMI inks typically contain 20-40 per cent less glycols together with up to 80 per cent more colorants than current inks. This provides improved print quality in terms of colour vibrancy and sharpness while the enhanced drying behaviour helps to increase printing speed and facilitate the whole of the printing operation.

Jaysynth (India) have introduced both medium and high viscosity DiGiTex acid inks as well as pigment inks for wide-format printing.

Their new CMYK + white pigment inks of low and of high viscosity for DTG (direct to garment) printing were launched at the recent FESPA digital show in Hamburg, Germany.

J-Teck 3 Srl have introduced its new J-Next Subly JXS-65 inks which are regarded as a new concept digital ink range that features greater

stability of the ink molecule. These new inks are claimed to be capable of meeting the configuration requirements for all the piezo printers used for dye sublimation end uses. JNext Subly JXS-65 dye sublimation digital inks based on cyan, magenta, yellow and absolute black are suitable for printing onto any kind of coated paper for subsequent transfer to polyester and mixed polyester fabrics for applications such as sportswear, flags and banners.

MS Italy and Stork Prints have recently announced an agreement to co-operate on the development and production of digital inkjet printing systems. Thus Stork will represent MS machinery internationally which includes the MS JP Series and the LaRIO machines, as well as marketing its own high production machines which include the Stork Sphene.

Stork Prints have developed the Quasar ink range for the MS LaRIO machine which can print at 20-30 linear metres per minute. The Quasar reactive and acid inks are based on Stork’s own single pass digital printing technology developed for the DSI machine and includes patented techniques to prevent striping.

Quasar ReAcid ink is currently in use on the first MS LaRIO prototype machine which was installed in a Como silk printing mill operated by Tintseka Ink. Stork have also expanded their Nebula acid ink range for Kyocera print heads by introducing a new Deep Black reactive ink which is claimed to be more effective than the acid alternative. Stork’s Nebula range of inks is compatible with the Stork Sphene digital printer as well as with the Reggiani ReNOIR, MS JP6 and MS JPK series of machines. 

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COLORANTS ET PRODUITS CHIMIQUES

Teinture réussie du premier coup grâce à des aides à la surveillance des bains de teinture par Ian Holme ES ATELIERS DE teinture en général sont sous pression, car les détaillants exigent de plus en plus des livraisons rapides et fréquentes de lots répétés de tissu teinté à la même teinte. Les détaillants utilisent les informations des points de vente électroniques (EPOS) pour déterminer quels vêtements se vendent plus rapidement, ce qui leur permet de préciser les tailles, les modèles et les couleurs correspondant à la demande des consommateurs.

La pression sur la Grande Rue est forte actuellement à cause de la rude concurrence entre détaillants après la période des achats de Noël. L'effet des rabais visant à attirer les consommateurs a exercé une pression vers le bas sur le niveau des actions et, de ce fait, la livraison rapide de vêtements de styles, modèles et couleurs qui se vendent est importante pour les détaillants qui doivent optimiser leurs ventes en cette période critique pour le marché. L'optimisation des ventes et la diminution du niveau des stocks, couplées à la réduction du fonds de roulement et des démarques de vêtements, tout cela peut augmenter la rentabilité et la compétitivité globale des détaillants.

L

Les ateliers de teinture de textiles peuvent gagner des avantages concurrentiels s'ils réussissent à appliquer à leur production le principe du "Right-FirstTime" (RFT), c'est-à-dire "réussi du premier coup". La teinture RFT est reconnue comme la meilleure approche pour obtenir des délais courts en teinture et, qui plus est, la teinture RTF est l'approche la plus durable de la teinture classique, car elle minimise la consommation de ressources, à savoir eau, énergie, colorants et produits chimiques. Par ailleurs, elle réduit également le volume des eaux usées à évacuer ainsi que le coup de traitement de ces eaux usées. Comme la teinture et la finition des textiles constituent un secteur de services de l'industrie textile, il s'ensuit que la teinture RTF fournit un plus grand service aux clients, c'est-à-dire aux détaillants, grâce aux délais plus courts, ainsi qu'une plus grande homogénéité en termes de reproductibilité des teintes dans des lots répétés de la même couleur.

La teinture RFT dans les ateliers de teinture de textiles a un effet spectaculaire sur l'efficacité de la production, la capacité de production et, partant de là, sur les calendriers de livraison. En outre, la teinture RFT génère un plus gros chiffre d'affaires et

Le système Smart Liqluor de Werner Mathis.

augmente la rentabilité. La teinture à l'aveugle, c'est-à-dire la teinture en production sans définir de teinte/de recette dans le laboratoire de la teinturerie, n'est plus pratiquée dans de nombreux établissements. En revanche, si la teinte/recette est établie lors de la première teinture en production, alors une teinture RFT peut généralement être réalisée sur des lots répétés, à condition que l'aptitude à la teinture des fibres textiles reste la même que dans le premier lot.

La rentabilité des ateliers de teinture souffre inévitablement si un ou plusieurs ajouts de nuance doivent être faits, tandis que la décoloration et la re-teinture d'un lot exerce un impact négatif avec un effet énorme sur la rentabilité. Les teinturiers du textile doivent donc chercher avant tout à éviter les ajouts, etc., en sélectionnant d'emblée les colorants, les produits chimiques et les produits auxiliaires appropriés, et contrôler étroitement le processus de teinture au cours de la production. Les ateliers de teinture qui font partie d'un groupe vertical sont souvent mieux placés pour appliquer la teinture RFT et la teinture à l'aveugle du fait d'un meilleur contrôle de l'aptitude à la teinture des tissus. Les ateliers de teinture à la commission doivent faire face à une plus grande variation dans l'aptitude à la teinture des tissus qui leur sont envoyés pour teinture.

La teinture implique trois approches principales qui contribuent à la teinture en production, à savoir : • la normalisation des colorants ; • la reproductibilité des nuances, et • des processus de teinture robustes.

Tous les fabricants de colorants doivent investir dans des procédures de normalisation de la teinture, et les grands fabricants de colorants comme Clariant, Dohmen, DyStar et Huntsman doivent normaliser les nuances, le pouvoir colorant et la teneur en humidité, ainsi que les seuils d'impuretés, etc. Certains colorants, comme les colorants par dispersion Dianix

TEXTILES AFRIQUE ET MOYEN ORIENT 2EME EDITION/2012

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COLORANTS ET PRODUITS CHIMIQUES AM de DyStar, par exemple, sont fabriqués avec le tout dernier degré de précision, à savoir ±1,5 % en pouvoir colorant / DE 0.2 CMC 2:1. Ces spécifications de production exigeantes s'appliquent aux Dianix AM Classics, aux spécialités Dianix AM et aux colorants Dianix AM-SLR de DyStar pour assurer une coloration contrôlée. Les colorants Dianix AM offrent également une bonne reproductibilité des teintes grâce à leur grande stabilité au pH et grâce à une technologie de normalisation de pointe. La normalisation des colorants est un facteur essentiel pour le transfert des recettes de teinture du laboratoire à la teinture en production en utilisant l'approche de teinture RFT. Un contrôle étroit de la température atmosphérique et du taux d'humidité dans les ateliers de teinture peut être un facteur puissant pour assurer une pondération cohérente des colorants, des auxiliaires et des produits chimiques. Des équipements robotisés pour la pesée avec contrôle électronique automatisé des colorants en poudre sont disponibles chez de nombreux constructeurs tels que Color Service, Lawer et Tecnorama. La distribution automatisée de haute précision des produits liquides est également disponible auprès de nombreux constructeurs.

Une caractéristique très importante de l'approche de teinture RFT est la sélection et l'utilisation de colorants compatibles, c'est-à-dire de colorants qui ont des courbes d'épuisement / temporelles très similaires.

De cette façon, les mélanges trichromatiques de colorants s'épuiseront à la même vitesse, créant la teinte requise "sur ton". Cela est préférable à une création "hors ton" de la couleur. Les principaux fabricants de colorants ont épuré leurs gammes de colorants pour offrir aux ateliers de teinture des trichromats optimisés ainsi que des procédures d'application optimisées pour teinture par épuisement, foulardage vapeur, foulardage-séchage thermofix ou foulardage-stockage.

Une étape importante vers la teinture RFT consiste à comprendre la façon dont les colorants sélectionnés s'épuisent sur les fibres. De ce point de vue, l'introduction du système de surveillance des bains de teinture Smart Liquor de Werner Mathis AG (Oberhasli/Zürich, Suisse) offre aux teinturiers du textile la possibilité de surveiller, d'analyser et d'optimiser à la fois les processus d'épuisement et de teinture à la continu. Le système de surveillance des bains de teinture Smart Liquor de Mathis est un système évolué de pointe qui intègre un spectrophotomètre à part entière avec plusieurs accessoires pour des mesures en

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Le système Optilab de Callebaut de Blicquy.

ligne continues et individuelles hors ligne.

Ce système sophistiqué de mesure du bain de teinture est géré par un puissant progiciel qui offre la possibilité de mesurer simultanément jusqu'à six colorants dans le bain de teinture. De plus, ce système Smart Liquor de Mathis peut, en principe, être relié à toute machine de teinture utilisée dans le laboratoire ou en production.

Le système Smart Liquor de Mathis a été présenté à ITMA 2003 à Birmingham, Royaume-Uni, et depuis lors, son développement extensif a été poursuivi. Les nombreux avantages de ce système d'analyse avancé des bains de teinture ont été reconnus dans le monde entier et ce système est utilisé dans 13 pays par des ateliers de teinture et par des fabricants et organismes de recherche auxiliaires.

Le système Smart Liquor de Mathis a été conçu pour fonctionner avec toutes les principales catégories de colorants (réactifs, par dispersion, acides, au complexe métallique, directs, etc.) et peut être relié à toute machine de teinture, que ce soit en laboratoire ou en production, tant qu'il y a de la liqueur en circulation (comme en teinture par épuisement) ou une liqueur de foulardage (par exemple, teinture à la continu).

Le système de mesure intégré du pH et de la conductivité utilise un instrument à double canal avec une méthode d'étalonnage multi-point intégrée. Il intègre reconnaissance automatique de tampon et test par électrodes, conjointement avec une correction linéaire et non linéaire de la température. Le logiciel SmartMachine fournit des algorithmes pour l'optimisation

des processus, permettant à chaque machine de teinture et recette de teinture de calculer les gradients optimums de température et de dosage ainsi que les temps de maintien.

Une fonction importante, notamment pour les teintures par dispersion des fibres de polyester, est le module logiciel qui calcule le "coefficient de solubilité du colorant".

C'est le rapport du pigment de coloration insoluble au colorant dissout dans les conditions de teinture en cours. Cela permet une analyse détaillée à la fois du comportement du colorant par dispersion et de l'influence des produits auxiliaires sur la teinture. Cela permet aussi de déterminer à quel moment les colorants commencent à se diffuser dans la fibre.

Une autre caractéristique importante du système Smart Liquor de Mathis est le logiciel SmartRinse pour optimiser le processus de rinçage après teintures par épuisement des fibres cellulosiques avec les colorants réactifs. Ce logiciel utilise un modèle physico-chimique pour le calcul et incorpore un procédé d'optimisation qui permet au teinturier de sélectionner le processus spécifique à la recette le moins cher. Le système Smart Liquor de Mathis utilise également un modèle logiciel SmartPad-Liquor software qui est intégré dans SmartLiquor et qui élimine les effets de queutage avec les colorants réactifs.

Cela est particulièrement adapté pour les processus par lots de foulage à froid et de teinture avec contrôle électronique. Le logiciel SmartManager permet à l'utilisateur de documenter et de donner la priorité aux

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COLORANTS ET PRODUITS CHIMIQUES étapes d'optimisation, et offre également la capacité de générer des rapports à l'aide de modèles prédéfinis.

L'expérience accumulée des utilisateurs de ce système évolué d'analyse des bains de teinture a démontré des augmentations de la productivité de 20 à 25 % en utilisant les machines de teinture existantes, avec de plus hauts niveaux de production RFT. D'autres avantages sont notamment des réductions de coûts obtenues via l'analyse des courbes d'épuisement et de lavage à fond qui ont permis de réduire les dépenses en colorants et de faire des économies d'eau et d'énergie.

Un autre système d'optimisation qui a été exposé à ITMA 2011 est le système Optilab de Callebaut de Blicquy (Tourcoing, France).

Cet équipement de teinture de laboratoire permet de visualiser le comportement des colorants dans un processus de teinture par épuisement en fonction des conditions de teinture physiques et chimiques. Quatre solutions sont proposées, à savoir : • Optilab "Full" (complet), • Optilab avec ajout de solide, • Optilab avec ajout de liquide, • Optilab "Light" (sans ajout de solide ni de liquide).

La visualisation à l'écran des courbes d'épuisement du colorant permet à l'utilisateur de déterminer la vitesse et l'étendue de l'épuisement du colorant pour une teinture individuelle dans un mélange de colorant, ainsi que la compatibilité des colorants utilisés dans un trichromat. En outre, l'influence de produits auxiliaires tels que les agents égalisants sur la vitesse d'épuisement et le temps de migration et de

fixation peuvent tous deux être mesurés. Le système de laboratoire Optilab peut aussi servir à évaluer l'efficacité du rinçage et du savonnage.

Adaptive Control Solutions Ltd (Shipley, Royaume-Uni) sont des spécialistes en logiciel et en contrôle des processus qui proposent des systèmes de régulation des machines de teinture, allant de régulateurs pour machine individuelle à la régulation de plusieurs machines. Ces systèmes utilisent la technologie des écrans tactiles et une puissante commande logicielle qui permet aux teinturiers de contrôler et de surveiller rapidement chaque machine. Le système propose un calendrier de travail local en temps réel, une liste complète d'étapes d'exécution, une courbe "live" (en direct), des icônes de machine animées et des courbes d'historique qui sont mémorisées pour analyse future. L'intégration est simple, avec des liens réseau avec Excel, Access, des réseaux professionnels et avec le système centralisé de commande Adaptive Plant Explorer. Le système de commande multimachine permet aux utilisateurs de gérer les machines de teintures séparément ou en combinaison multiple pour une efficacité et une souplesse maximale de la production.

Le système de commande centralisé Adaptive Plant Explorer enregistre les informations de commande et de surveillance provenant de tout l'établissement et les enregistre dans une base de données Microsoft SQL Server standard. Une nouvelle fonction de ce système de commande centralisé évolué est la capacité de télécharger leur application gratuite Plant Explorer. Les directeurs / superviseurs qui peuvent être en

déplacement ont ainsi la possibilité de se connecter au système Wifi de l'usine ou d'établir une connexion VPN qui les reliera en ligne aux mêmes écrans sur la copie PC de bureau de Plant Explorer. Cela permet de suivre simplement l'évolution d'un lot à travers l'usine de teinture.

Un nouveau système de surveillance en ligne pour la coloration en indigo a été présenté à ITMA 2011. Il a été développé conjointement par DyStar Colours Deutschland GmbH, Frankfurt (Allemagne), Becatron AG, Müllheim (Suisse) et Lilienwei GmbH, Remshalden (Allemagne).

Basé sur une nouvelle technologie, ce système novateur de surveillance en ligne IndiLine permet d'analyser et de surveiller à l'aide d'un dispositif simple tous les paramètres importants.

Ainsi, des paramètres de processus critiques tels que : • concentration d'indigo, • concentration de rongeant, • température, • concentration d'électrolyte, • alcalinité / valeur pH, et • potentiel redox peuvent être surveillés rapidement, permettant un contrôle rentable de ces paramètres importants du bain de teinture.

Le nouveau système intègre un étalonnage automatique, est autonettoyant, et exclut les inexactitudes causées par la contamination de la teinture par le soufre. De toute évidence, un tel processus de surveillance et de contrôle doit être une étape importante vers la réalisation de niveaux supérieurs de production RFT dans la teinture indigo, couplée à d'autres améliorations de la qualité de la teinture. 

Italian textile machinery sector back on the rise ORDERS FOR ITALIAN textile machinery manufacturers were on the rise again during the last quarter of 2011 after two quarters of fall down. The results were gathered by the quarterly survey conducted by ACIMIT, the Association of Italian textile machinery manufacturers.

Overall orders for the period from October to December 2011 rose up 28 per cent over the previous quarter, at a value of 90.2 points.

The most significant increase regarded orders in foreign markets (+32 per cent), whereas on the domestic market orders were up 15per cent.

Sandro Salmoiraghi, President of ACIMIT, said, “Despite the economic crisis, our sector is showing signs of a recovery in sales after two negative quarters.”

“We’re still far from the levels achieved in 2010,” comments Sandro Salmoiraghi, President of ACIMIT, “but this recovery,

TEXTILES AFRIQUE ET MOYEN ORIENT 2EME EDITION/2012

compared to the mid months of 2011, confirms the dynamic nature of our manufacturers.”

“Despite the current difficult conditions in global markets,” Salmoiraghi says “our manufacturers have managed to catch the business opportunities available in major foreign markets, especially China, Turkey and India, as well as the United States and Brazil.”

The situation on the domestic market remains more difficult to The most significant increase resolve, however. The revival in regarded orders in foreign markets investments recorded over the past three months is certainly a positive sign, but the gap remains large with current trends abroad.

The expectations of Italian machinery manufacturers for the first quarter of 2012 remain cautious, above all regarding the domestic market. “Economic uncertainty, combined with increased difficulties due to the danger of a credit crunch, are stopping investments of our Italian customers,” ACIMIT’s President said.

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TEXTILE NEWS New test methods to investigate acoustic properties of textile materials THE EXTENT TO which a textile material has a sound-absorbing effect and which are the noises that cause wind flow, can now be investigated using acoustic test apparatus at the Hohenstein Institute in Bönnigheim.

Hohenstein scientists in the team working with Dr. Jan Beringer, in conjunction with Hochschule Reutlingen and Rökona Textilwerk GmbH in Tübingen, have developed innovative test methods to investigate the acoustic and aeroacoustic properties of textile materials.

Noise now pervades all parts of our everyday lives and is becoming an increasing source of stress. In addition to the negative effects on the nervous system, studies have shown that it diminishes concentration ability by about 20-30 per ,cent, reduces work performance, increases accident risks and above all decreases feelings of comfort. Even sounds above 40 decibels corresponding approximately to soft radio music can produce these negative effects.

Therefore sound-absorbing textile materials are gaining popularity in the many sectors where sounds are perceived as unpleasant and disruptive. It is primarily in the interior design and automotive sectors where specifically adapted materials are used to minimise and optimise noises leading to a rise in acoustic comfort.

For instance, sound-absorbing ceilings, partitions, floors and furniture surfaces in public facilities, open-plan offices and exhibition halls as well as technical textiles in vehicle interior linings are all effective measures to counter acoustic disturbances.

During the testing process at the Hohenstein Institute, different textile materials are investigated with the acoustic measuring device. The fabric to be tested is clamped in a sample holder between a loud speaker and a measuring microphone. One great benefit here is the small sample size as fabric samples measuring only 10 x 10 cm are large enough.

Measurements are taken within a frequency spectrum of 200 – 20,000 Hz to ascertain the extent (decibels) to which the fabric attenuates/dampens the signal sent by the loudspeaker.

The aeroacoustic test determines the frequency spectra of the often disturbing background noise of textile air flow. The Hohenstein Institute test apparatus is able to investigate virtually all samples ranging from small laboratory samples up to complete components and can simulate wind speeds of up to 140 km/h.

The textile or component is exposed to air flow and a special measurement microphone is then used to record the noise caused by the air flow. This noise is then subject to computer analysis and the corresponding frequencies of the noise are determined. These resulting comparative figures then enable materials to be optimised for the most diverse of uses.

As well as capturing the aeroacoustic properties of textile fabrics, locallytriggered causes of air flow noises can also be determined. This knowledge can then be used to optimise textiles and components even more.

Global yarn and fabric production outlook positive for Q2 OUTPUT OF GLOBAL yarn production increased in Q4/2011 as a result of higher output in Asia–especially in China–and Europe, and in spite of lower production in North and South America. Also year-on-year global yarn production was up due to higher output in Asia and in spite of lower output in Europe, South and North America.

Global fabric production rose in the fourth quarter with Asia and Europe recording higher output, while North and South America registered a reduction. Compared to last year’s fourth quarter global fabric output decreased with all regions suffering declines.

Global yarn stocks were slightly higher in Q4/2011 compared with the previous one which was especially due to higher stocks in Europe and South America, while stocks in Asia fell. Year-on-year global yarn inventories increased as a result of higher stocks in all regions.

In comparison to the previous quarter fabric stocks were up in Europe and South America in the 4th quarter, but down in Asia and North America.

On an annual basis fabric stocks soared in South America with weaker increases recorded in North America and Asia, whereas stocks decreased slightly in Europe. Yarn and fabric orders fell in Q4/2011 in Brazil both compared to the previous and last year’s quarter. Europe’s yarn order increased in comparison to the previous quarter but fell on a yearly basis. Fabric orders on the other hand fell slightly compared to the previous one and also year-on-year.

The estimates for global yarn and fabric production in the first quarter of 2012 compared to the last quarter of 2011 are negative. As far as yarn production is concerned this is mainly due to lower output in

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Asia in general and China in particular, whereas output is estimated to increase in North and South America with Europe remaining unchanged. In global fabric production both Asia and Europe are expecting lower output in the first quarter, whereas South America is estimating an increased production level. The general outlook for the second quarter 2012 is positive both for global yarn and fabric production.

In comparison with the previous quarter, world yarn production increased in Q4/2011 by +6.5 per cent. While North and South America recorded a drop of -16.4 per cent and -1.5 per cent, respectively, Europe and Asia recorded increases of +14.7 per cent and +7.0 per cent, respectively. Year-on-year global yarn production rose by +8.5 per cent due to higher output in Asia (+9.8 per cent), and despite lower output levels in North America (-20.4 per cent), Europe (-1.4 per cent) and South America (-0.4per cent).

Compared with the previous quarter global fabric production increased in Q4/2011 by +0.7 per cent. Fabric production rose in Europe and Asia by +9.0 per cent and +1.9 per cent, respectively, but fell in South and North America by -18.2 per cent and -8.3 per cent, respectively. In comparison to last year’s 4th quarter global fabric production was down by -1.8 per cent. In all regions production was down, in South America by -7.5 per cent, in North America by -2.2 per cent, in Europe by -1.9 per cent and in Asia by -1.3 per cent.

Yarn inventories rose only slightly worldwide by +0.4 per cent in Q4/2011 while fabric inventories soared by +1.5 per cent as compared to the previous one.

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Stage set for ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012

The mega expo is said to be the unrivalled marketing platform for global textile machinery manufacturers tapping into the vibrant China market

D

ESPITE THE CURRENT global economic slowdown, leading textile machinery manufacturers around the world are still attracted to prospects offered by the world’s largest textile producer— China. This can be seen from the overwhelming response received by the combined textile machinery show, ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012, which will be held at the Shanghai New International Expo Centre from 12 to 16 June 2012.

The combined show is owned by CEMATEX and its Chinese partners— the Sub-Council of Textile Industry, CCPIT (CCPIT-Tex), China Textile Machinery Association (CTMA) and China International Exhibition Centre Group Corporation (CIEC).

Stephen Combes, President of CEMATEX, said, “Response to this year's combined show is beyond our expectations. The strong demand for space attests to the effectiveness and popularity of the combined show as well as the resilience of the textile and textile machinery industry.”

“Having held two successful presentations of the ITMA ASIA + CITME combined show in 2008 and 2010, we are confident that the upcoming exhibition will create enhanced and new marketing and networking opportunities for both Chinese and international textile and textile machinery

manufacturers, especially those offering ecofriendly solutions.”

With the additional 6,000 square metres of exhibition space, the show will now gross over 132,000 sqm, 30 per cent larger than the previous event in 2010. More than 1,230 exhibitors from 27 countries and regions will take part.

The mega expo is expected to feature some 1,300 local and international textile machinery makers who will showcase cutting-edge solutions, as well as sustainability and energy efficient machinery and processes. Chinese exhibitors make up the biggest country group, booking around 50 per cent of the total exhibition space. Besides China, the top participating countries in terms of space applications are Germany, Italy, Japan and Switzerland.

Sector-wise, spinning machinery forms the largest sector. This is followed by knitting, dyeing and finishing, weaving and winding.

Wang Shutian, President of CTMA, said, “As China's textile industry continues its transformation, the demand for advanced machinery and technology is on the rise. This is also reflected in the current uptrend in textile machinery trade.”

The latest statistics from China Customs reveal

AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO/2012

that China's textile machinery foreign trade registered a year-on-year growth of 25.6 per cent to reach US$7.6 billion in 2011; of this amount, exports contributed US$2.25 billion while imports chalked up US$5.36 billion.

According to Global Industry Analysts, Inc. (GIA), the global market for textile machinery is projected to reach US$20.75 billion by 2015. The Asia Pacific region is expected to dominate as the single largest market, as local governments play a pivotal role in developing initiatives to boost textile machinery trade and bolster sales and investments.

The Asian region is forecast to emerge by 2015 as one of the fastest growing markets, spurred on by such initiatives. In China, for example, one of the priorities under the government’s 12th Five-Year Plan period (2011-2015) is to raise the craftsmanship, techniques and equipment to reach the international level for textile and other industry sectors.

Besides the development and application of high-technology fibres, energy-saving, emissionreduction and environment-friendly technologies will also be the focus for China’s textile industry in the coming years.

The combined show has not only promoted textile machinery technology and machinery

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ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012 PREVIEW effectively in Asia but, more importantly, it has strengthened cooperation between international textile and textile machinery industries.

In addition, as a “one-stop shop” for the textile industry, the integration of the two shows has reduced participation costs for exhibitors seeking opportunities in China’s booming textile market.

The previous edition in 2010 attracted 1,171 exhibiting companies. The exhibition covered 103,500 square metres, and the five-day show received more than 82,000 professional visitors from 99 different countries and regions.

Wang Shutian said, “The combined show has been highly recognised by leading textile and textile machinery industry players as it offers them a cost-effective showcase for their products

and services in Asia. With the recovery of the world economy and the beginning of China’s 12th Five-Year Plan, we are confident that the combined show will score another success.”

The ITMF‘s International Textile Machinery Shipment Statistics show that investments, which were reduced during the 2008 crisis, have picked up significantly. In fact, I’ve been told that a number of machinery manufacturers have full order books, with delivery times, in some cases, of up to two years”.

ITMF statistics point to buoyant demand for textile machinery in the past decade. Although imported textile machinery investments fell back in 2008 and 2009 after an excellent performance in 2007, they have started to register an upward

trend since last year. Machinery shipment figures for 2011 released recently reveal that substantial investments have been made in sectors such as short-staple spindles, open-end rotors, texturing spindles, shuttle-less looms, circular knitting machines and electronic flat knitting machines.

The global market for textile machinery is projected to reach US$22.9 billion by the year 2017. Major factors driving growth in the textile machinery market include economic recovery post recession, rising demand for nonwoven disposable textile products, increasing demand from emerging regions, especially Asia-Pacific, and rising demand for environmentally friendly fibers. 

Rieter to showcase its innovative spinning systems at ITMA Asia RIETER WILL DEMONSTRATE its competence across the entire spinning process and present all the four of its end spinning systems live on the stand (Hall W2, Booth No. A10).

Rieter spinning machines

New product launches from Truetzschler THE THREE BUSINESS divisions of the Truetzschler Group will jointly exhibit at ITMA Asia on stand E01 in hall W2. Machines and technologies for the Asian market will take center stage.

Truetzschler Spinning is introducing the new card TC 8 at ITMA Asia. This machine has been specifically designed for the Asian market and will be built at Truetzschler Textile Machinery Shanghai, TTMS. Truetzschler Nonwovens will showcase the new Bastian winder technology for the first time, while Truetzschler Car Clothing will present its new innovations such as the flats series NovoTop A and the first maintenance-free cylinder clothing FGX 1.

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For the upstream fiber and spinning plant preparation, Rieter now offers 1,000 mm cans throughout, thereby ensuring higher efficiency and convenience in the spinning plant. “Multimedia presentations will convey to visitors a striking impression of the advantages and features of the new Rieter E 80 combing flagship,” a company official said.

“What the benefits and characteristics of the four spinning systems mean for downstream processing can be experienced by visitors in the Technology Corner. End products and fabric samples of the 4 Rieter yarns will be available.”

The know-how relating to financing, spinning mill planning, use of the right technological elements, selection of the correct spinning process as well as many other factors is necessary to achieve success in the operation of a spinning plant. Rieter will showcase all this expertise at the event.

The new double-sided J 20 air-jet spinning machine (operational) will be introduced for the first time to the Asian market at the expo.

The latest retrofits and high-quality original spare parts will also be presented by Rieter’s spare parts experts.

Oerlikon to present advanced technology solutions AT THE ITMA Asia, Oerlikon Textile will exhibit its broad product portfolio in the manmade fiber, natural fiber and textile components business.

Five leading brands will also exhibit the following products under the umbrella of Oerlikon Textile at the show (booth H01/F02 in hall W2).

Show highlights include the Autocoro 8 rotor spinning machine, new solutions for ring spinning and winding systems, the FDY take-up winding machine WINGS, twisting and embroidery solutions and manifold premium components.

“Oerlikon Textile will present technology solutions especially for the requirements of the Asian market with a focus on a sustainable textile production,”said Clement Woon, CEO of Oerlikon Textile.

“Our e-save program fits perfectly to the needs of our customers: Creating a higher productivity, saving more energy and the protection of the environment with a less waste production,” Woon said.

Oerlikon will have a ‘virtual showroom’ for its visitors, in which they can familiarize themselves with complex installations and process sequences in 3D for nonwovens, synthetic staple fiber and BCF carpet yarn plants, he added.

Oerlikon will have a ‘virtual showroom’ for its visitors at the expo

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TEXTILE MACHINERY

Global shipments of new textile machinery sees surge A

FTER A SHARP reduction in global shipments of new textile machinery in 2008 and 2009 as a result of the global financial and economic crisis in 2008/2009, deliveries of new textile machinery surged in 2010 and even stronger in 2011, in most cases to new record highs, according to the 34th annual International Textile Machinery Shipment Statistics (ITMSS) released recently by the International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF).

In comparison to 2010, global shipments of new spinning machinery increased by +15 per cent (short-staple spindles), by +35per cent (long staple spindles) and by +27 per cent (open-end rotors), of new draw-texturing spindles by +42 per cent, of new shuttle-less looms by +44 per cent, and of new electronic flat-knitting machines by +37 per cent. Only worldwide shipments of new large circular knitting machines dropped in 2011 by -16per cent.

The 2011 survey has been compiled in cooperation with some 118 textile machinery manufacturers, representing a comprehensive measure of world production.

with 10,250 rotors (1.8 per cent), Brazil with 30,250 rotors (5.3 per cent) and the USA with 12,250 rotors (2.1 per cent).

Texturing Machinery Shipments of single heater draw-texturing spindles (for polyamide filaments) fell from 13,200 in 2010 to 1,824 in 2011 (-86 per cent). Only two countries, Taiwan, China (1,536) and Vietnam (288) were installing new texturing spindles of this type.

In the segment of double heater draw-texturing spindles (for polyester filament) investments surged from 568,250 texturing spindles in 2010 to 826,500 in 2011, an increase of +45 per cent. This meant also a new all time high of newly shipped double-heater draw-texturing spindles. By far the biggest investor in this type of machinery was China where 624,500 new spindles or 76per cent of global shipments were installed, followed by distant second India with 90,000 or 11 per cent, Turkey with 20,000 or 2.4per cent, Japan with 19,750 or 2.4 per cent and Taiwan with 7,500 or 0.9 per cent.

Weaving Machinery

The global market for textile machinery is projected to reach US$22.9 billion by the year 2017

Spinning Machinery After shipments of new short-staple spindles plummeted in 2008 (-33 per cent) and 2009 (-17 per cent), they jumped back in 2010 (+75 per cent) to pre-crisis levels and increased in 2011 by a further +15 per cent reaching 14.33 million, an all-time high. 94 per cent of all shipped short-staple spindles were destined for Asia (13.46 million), with China alone absorbing 8.90 million or 62 per cent of global shipments, followed by India as distant second (2.49 million spindles or 17per cent), Bangladesh (639,000 or 4.5 per cent), Turkey (628,000 or 4.4 per cent) and Indonesia (517,000 or 3.6 per cent).

Global shipments of long-staple (wool) spindles soared in 2011 by +35 per cent to 113,250. Europe was the main recipient (53,750 or 47 per cent), followed by Asia (49,000 or 43 per cent), the America (8,750 or 7.7 per cent) and Africa (2,000 or 1.8per cent). The single biggest investor in long-staple (wool) spindles was Turkey (32,500), followed by China (23,400), Iran (14,300), UAE (9,000) and Italy (8,800). Investments in open-end rotors jumped in 2011 by +27 per cent to 572,250, a new record high. Asia was once again by far the biggest investor in this spinning technology installing in total 463,250 new rotors or 81per cent of global shipments. China was by far the biggest single investor in rotors absorbing 388,250 or 68 per cent of global shipments.

India was again distant second with a total of 37,750 new open-end rotors (6.6per cent), followed by Turkey with 35,250 rotors (6.2 per cent), Uzbekistan

AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE TWO/2012

Worldwide shipments of shuttle-less looms continued soaring in 2011 to 153,750 machines, an increase of +44 per cent from last year's record of 107,000. The main reason behind this development is the surge in shipments of water-jet looms. After a skyrocketing jump of +537 per cent to 73,250 in 2010, which was partially due to the fact that more weaving machinery manufacturers reported for the first time in 2010, global deliveries in this shuttle-less loom segment continued soaring by +54 per cent to 113,000 machines in 2011.

In the shuttle-less loom segment of rapier/projectile looms shipments increased from 16,000 in 2010 to 19,250 in 2011, an increase of +20 per cent.

Also deliveries of shuttle-less air-jet looms increased from 17,750 in 2010 to 21,500 in 2011 (+21 per cent). As in previous years the main destination of shuttle-less looms was Asia, where 148,500 or 96 per cent of all new shuttle-less looms were installed. Country-wise the biggest global investor was again China with 128,100 looms (83 per cent), of which 106,000 were water-jet looms, 13,900 air-jet looms and 8,250 rapier/projectile looms.

With 9,100 looms (6 per cent) of global shipments India was the second biggest investor, followed by Indonesia with 2,900 (1.9 per cent) and Korea with 2,500 looms (1.6 per cent).

Circular & Flat Knitting Machinery Global shipments of large circular knitting machines decreased by 16 per cent from 34,500 in 2010 to 28,900 in 2011. Nevertheless, this was still the third highest number of large circular knitting machines ever shipped. Also in this segment Asia was the main regional investor in this type of machinery absorbing 26,400 machines or 91 per cent of all machines shipped in 2011.

The biggest single investor was again China with a total of 21,200 machines (a global market share of 73 per cent) followed by India with 1,500 machines (or 5.2 per cent), Bangladesh with 1,050 machines (or 3.6 per cent) and Turkey with 900 machines (or 3.1 per cent).

In the segment of electronic flat knitting machines, global shipments in 2011 jumped by +37 per cent to 70,000 machines.

The bulk of global shipments of electronic flat knitting machines was delivered to Asia (65,250 or 93 per cent), while Europe's (including Turkey) share reached 5.8 per cent (= 4,100 machines).

The biggest single investor in 2011 was again China, where 54,800 new machines (78 per cent) were installed, followed by Bangladesh with 4,475 machines (6.4 per cent), Hong Kong with 2,930 machines (4.2 per cent), Turkey with 2,150 machines (3.1per cent) and Italy with 1,120 machines (1.6 per cent). ď ą

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TEST DES ÉTOFFES

Test des étoffes - une science en évolution constante Niki Tait observe quelques-uns des nouveaux procédés de test et équipements évolués disponibles aujourd'hui E SECTEUR DE l'habillement et des textiles est extrêmement concurrentiel et très fragmenté. Il est donc important que les produits et les marques puissent se distinguer, et cela peut être facilité par l'amélioration de la qualité et le maintien d'une qualité constante.

Les tests peuvent servir à mesurer différents aspects de qualité objective, à déterminer si le vêtement ou autre produit textile est adapté à l'usage auquel il est destiné, et dans quelle mesure, et à assurer la conformité à de normes définies.

Il existe une pléthore de normes différentes, auxquelles un produit donné doit éventuellement se conformer ; tout dépend de l'usage final auquel ce produit est destiné. Bien qu'il existe des normes mondialement reconnues comme les normes ISO, de nombreux pays, comme les États-Unis, l'Australie et l'Union Européenne, ont aussi leurs propres normes. Par ailleurs, de nombreux détaillants et de nombreuses marques mettent en avant leurs propres normes spécialisées, comme Next, Marks and Spencer Limited, pour garantir la qualité constante de leurs marques.

Il existe également un large éventail de tests disponibles dans l'industrie textile pour assurer la conformité d'une étoffe ou d'un produit fini.

On peut citer notamment des mesures de résistance à la traction, à l'éclatement, à l'arrachement des boutons et boutons-pression et de résistance au déchirement, ainsi que des mesures d'évaluation de l'abrasion et du boulochage, d'étirement et de rétablissement, des mesures d'inflammabilité, de résistance au frottement, au lavage et à la transpiration, au rétrécissement, entre autres.

Il existe beaucoup d'entreprises sur le marché qui se sont spécialisées dans la fabrication de matériel de test des étoffes, et d'autres dans les services d'essais spécialisés par le biais de laboratoires dédiés. SDL Atlas, entreprise britannique, se targue d'offrir la plus large gamme de produits d'essai, de fournitures, de consommables et de services dans le domaine des textiles, tout cela à partir d'une source unique. Son catalogue comporte plus de 600 solutions de test des textiles. La compagnie MAG Solvics Private Limited, basée en Inde, propose plus de 130 dispositifs de test pour les fibres, les fils et les étoffes, tous conformes aux normes d'essai internationales

L

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James Heal Martindale 900

appropriées, y compris ISO, AATCC, ASTM, BS, IS, SDC, IWS, IWTO et ITF. Elle compte plus de 7000 installations et 3600 clients.

L'Italien Mesdan offre une large gamme de matériel pour l'analyse des fibres, fils, étoffes traditionnelles et techniques, non-tissés, cuir, etc., en conformité avec les normes internationales.

Plus un vêtement est fonctionnel, plus il nécessite de tests. Comme étoffes et vêtements bénéficient des progrès technologiques, les méthodes et les équipements de test doivent évoluer en conséquence.

Le test Martindale permet de vérifier la durabilité et l'aptitude des étoffes pour des usages différents, car il teste l'abrasion et le boulochage des étoffes tissées, non tissées et tricotées. Un échantillon circulaire, monté sur un porte-échantillon et soumis à une charge définie, est frotté contre une matière abrasive définie dans un mouvement de translation traçant une figure de Lisssajous, le porteéchantillon étant en outre libre de tourner autour de son axe perpendiculaire par rapport au plan de l'échantillon. Le point final du test est quand deux fils sont rompus ou, dans le cas

d'étoffes en velours, quand le velours est totalement usé.

Pratiquement toutes les entreprises de matériel de test fournissent ce type d'équipements, bien que ceux fournit par James Heal aient été récemment réactualisés et modernisés. Il propose désormais trois modèles dans sa série Martindale 900, avec neuf, cinq ou deux postes. Chaque poste est facilement accessible depuis l'avant de la machine, sans obstruction ; chacun d'eux est muni de prises pour les doigts permettant un retrait facile des plaques supérieures, ce qui permet de changer librement les outils entre mouvements. Faites de matériaux légers et résistants à l'usure, les plaques supérieures sont réalisées avec précision à partir d'aluminium dur anodisé, de qualité aéronautique. Un panneau de commande convivial et intuitif, avec des invites vocales facultatives, offre une gamme complète d'options de maintien des échantillons, et la machine est conforme à toutes les normes de test Martindale.

La gamme James Heal réactualisée comprend le Testeur universel de résistance Titan 4 qui peut tester la résistance des fils,

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TEST DES ÉTOFFES étoffes et vêtements ainsi que la sécurité des fixations en appliquant un degré constant d'extension (test CRE). Conforme aux normes, il peut fonctionner à la fois en modes tension et compression grâce à une gamme étendue de pinces à échantillon interchangeables sans outils, offrant le choix entre trois cellules de chargement, jusqu'à 3000 N (300 kg environ). Le progiciel unique d'analyse des essais TestWise pour fil, cuir, étoffe et non-tissés comprend l'analyse de la résistance à la traction, glissement de la couture, sécurité des fixations, résistance des boutons, extraction des boucles du velours, résistance au déchirement, résistance au pelage (délamination), étirement et récupération (cyclique), résistance à l'éclatement, à la perforation et à l'écrasement. Il contient une bibliothèque étendue de normes nationales et internationales et de méthodes d'essai de détaillants préchargées, avec un "Éditeur de normes" qui permet de modifier facilement des normes existantes ou de créer de nouvelles méthodes. Après sélection de la norme ou de la méthode d'essai requise, il est possible de définir automatiquement les paramètres (y compris la longueur entre repères).

Le TruBurst 3 de James Heal est un testeur d'éclatement et de fatigue 3D totalement pneumatique qui dépasse confortablement les exigences strictes des normes ISO 13938-2, ASTM D3786 et de nombreuses autres normes nationales et internationales. La souplesse inhérente du TruBurst 3 lui donne la capacité de tester une large gamme de matériaux y compris textiles, non-tissés, papier, carton, plastiques et produits médicaux. Les fonctions clés comprennent la mesure des distensions par laser sans contact pour des résultats précis, une correction automatique du diaphragme pour améliorer la précision, une pression de serrage réglable pour éviter le glissement ou la détérioration des échantillons, un système de détection automatique de l'éclatement, une zone de visualisation éclairée, la reconnaissance automatique d'un dôme test avec une commutation sans outils pour accélérer les essais et réduire le temps d'indisponibilité. Il est livré avec un logiciel intuitif pour utilisateurs novices ou expérimentés, qui permet à la machine de recommencer un cycle jusqu'à 500 fois à une pression ou distension donnée, et une configuration des méthodes d'essai autorisant jusqu'à cinquante tests définissables par l'utilisateur. Le modèle à double contrôle a été approuvé à la fois par Marks and Spencer et Adidas Les testeurs de déchirement de type Elmendorf servent à déterminer la résistance au déchirement des étoffes, films plastiques et autres matériaux similaires. De nombreuses entreprises proposent ce type de testeur, y compris B-Tex Engineering, basée en Inde. Conforme aux normes internationales, son testeur de type Elmendorf détermine la résistance au déchirement en mesurant le travail nécessaire au déchirement sur une longueur fixe de l'échantillon. Il est constitué d'un pendule à secteurs qui pivote sur un roulement à billes anti-friction sur un support vertical fixé sur un socle métallique rigide.

Le pendule est levé jusqu'à ce qu'il repose contre la broche du bloc de libération. Les deux mâchoires doivent être ouvertes et l'échantillon est inséré entre les mâchoires. Le levier de coupe est poussé pour faire une fente dans l'échantillon, élevant celui-ci jusqu'à ce que le couteau aille aussi loin de possible. Le couteau doit être abaissé à sa position initiale et le pointeur doit être déplacé jusqu'à ce qu'il repose contre la vis d'arrêt du pointeur. On libère alors le pendule. Il faut tenir le levier jusqu'à ce que la déchirure soit complète, puis le libérer sur le balancement de retour. On lit ensuite l'échelle à la division entière la plus proche. La procédure doit ensuite être répétée cinq fois et la moyenne est calculée. Le résultat est calculé avec la formule : Force de déchirement (g) = K x valeur moyenne des valeurs d'échelle.

Des études récentes ont révélé que pour la plupart des acheteurs d'ensembles de détente, le confort de l'étoffe de leurs tenues est étroitement lié à sa capacité à gérer l'humidité, notamment la transpiration. Les chercheurs se sont donc efforcés de développer différents moyens pour mesurer objectivement et pour documenter les niveaux de confort et de gestion de l'humidité. Bien qu'il existe des

méthodes d'essai pour évaluer l'absorption, l'effet de mèche et le temps de traversée, les normes existantes ont été incapables de mesurer le comportement de transfert de liquide dans les tissus des vêtements de façon dynamique.

SDL Atlas a développé un nouveau testeur de gestion de l'humidité pour mesurer les propriétés de gestion de l'humidité des tissus de performance pour ensemble de détente et autres. Ce dispositif a obtenu récemment l'approbation de l'Association américaine des chimistes et coloristes du textile (AATCC).

Il mesure dynamiquement le phénomène de transfert des liquides dans les étoffes textiles tricotées, tissées et non tissées en utilisant des capteurs des degrés d'humidité concentrique supérieurs et inférieurs. Il génère six principaux indices : valeur supérieure/inférieure du temps de mouillage, valeur supérieure/inférieure du taux d'absorption, valeur supérieure/inférieure du rayon mouillé maximum, valeur supérieure/inférieure de la vitesse de diffusion, capacité de transport cumulatif dans un sens, capacité de gestion globale de l'humidité, ainsi qu'une valeur d'indice de déplacement de l'humidité dans un sens.

MMT est constitué de capteurs d'humidité concentriques supérieurs et inférieurs. L'échantillon est maintenu à plat sous pression fixe entre les capteurs tandis qu'une solution d'essai standard est introduite sur la surface supérieure du tissu. Les changements de résistance électrique entre les capteurs supérieurs et inférieurs sont alors enregistrés de façon dynamique sur ordinateur.

Measurement Technology Northwest propose également un mannequin thermique submersible baptisé Nemo. Il s'agit d'un mannequin en aluminium totalement immersible avec éléments de chauffage et capteurs à thermistors. Tous les composants électroniques de chauffage et de commande sont situés à l'intérieur du mannequin pour une précision et une facilité de maintenance maximales. Ce mannequin est totalement étanche et pèse 70 kg (155 lb), ce qui correspond approximativement au poids moyen d'un être humain. Il est classé pour les essais d'immersion à une profondeur de 3 m, ce qui signifie qu'il peut être utilisé pour effectuer des tests réalistes de matériel de plongée, de combinaisons de survie en mer et d'autres vêtements de protection.

Nemo possède des articulations étanches avec des paramètres de

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TEST DES ÉTOFFES friction réglables au niveau des chevilles, des coudes, des genoux et des hanches. Ces articulations conservent l'intégrité de leur étanchéité dans n'importe quelle pose.

Salzmann AG St. Gallen produit et commercialise le MST Professional, un dispositif de mesure de pression pour la compression médicale et des bas de contention qui permettent de mesurer la production standard, ainsi que des bas personnalisés. Il peut également enregistrer les propriétés d'élasticité et contient un programme de test d'assurance qualité. Les gradients de pression peuvent être mesurés pour des mesures de jambe normalisées et individuelles avec des diagrammes de force / d'étirement produits simultanément pour plusieurs points de mesure. Une forme de jambe variable est utilisée, qui peut couvrir 95 pour cent des tailles connues. Une corrélation avec HOSY, HATRA et CEN (ITFH) est possible. La sonde de mesure plate n'est pas saillante, par conséquent le tissu n'est pas tendu à l'excès avant la mesure, et aucune mesure erronée n'est possible, comme c'est le cas avec les sondes volumineuses. Les résultats peuvent être lus directement, et n'ont pas besoin d'être convertis à l'aide de tables et de formules. Le MST est mobile et peut s'utiliser n'importe où.

Les mesures peuvent être reproduites intégralement lorsqu'elles sont effectuées par des opérateurs différents.

Bien qu'il ne soit pas nouveau, le "Steaming Cylinder" ou cylindre à vapeur de WIRA est présenté par WIRA comme "la norme industrielle testée et respectée" en utilisation extensive dans l'industrie et chez les grossistes. Il facilite la prédiction du rétrécissement des tissus au stade de la fabrication et permet une mesure reproductible du rétrécissement par "relâchement" en utilisant une méthode de test standard, tout en fournissant un test de routine rapide pour le contrôle des processus.

Le cylindre possède une chambre à vapeur à double paroi, thermiquement isolée, dans laquelle les échantillons d'étoffe sont placés sur un cadre de support en acier inoxydable de faible capacité thermique et de superficie réduite. La vapeur est injectée dans la chambre par un générateur de vapeur intégré. Celui-ci est relié à une alimentation en eau, ce qui rend son fonctionnement automatique.

Le Steaming Cylinder de WIRA soumet quatre échantillons à la fois à de la vapeur

Salzmann AG St Gallen produit et commercialise le MST Professional, un dispositif de mesure de pression pour la compression médicale et des bas de contention.

sèche saturée à pression atmosphérique. Les échantillons ne subissent aucune restriction mécanique et il n'y a ensuite aucun refroidissement sous vide. Le dispositif permet une mesure reproductible de la composante de rétrécissement se produisant en pressing à la vapeur, attribuable à des contraintes latentes dans l'étoffe fournie. Tout rétrécissement supplémentaire qui peut survenir vient des caractéristiques du processus de pressing luimême. Une minuterie est incorporée dans l'appareil pour donner une indication du cycle de 30 secondes requis par les normes BS4323 et ISO3005.

Dans le test standard, les échantillons sont préconditionnés dans l'atmosphère standard pour tester les textiles. Ils sont ensuite marqués à l'aide du dispositif de mesure puis mesurés.

L'échantillon est soumis à la vapeur pendant 30 secondes, suivies de 30 secondes de repos à l'extérieur du cylindre, et ce cycle est effectué trois fois en tout. Les échantillons sont ensuite remesurés.

WIRA fabrique également une large gamme d'instruments pour les tests des étoffes classiques et non tissées, utilisés pour les tissus en PPE et les vêtements de protection, y compris un dispositif de test de flamme et de chaleur radiante.

Dans les industries des métaux, les vêtements de protection doivent protéger de la chaleur et du métal en fusion PCT:003, le

dispositif de test de métal en fusion de WIRA, soumet l'échantillon à une application contrôlée de métal en fusion. Un film de PVC gaufré est placé derrière l'échantillon. La petite quantité de métal en fusion est versée dans l'échantillon qui est soutenu à un angle. Le film en PVC est ensuite inspecté pour noter les dommages éventuels. Le test est répété avec des quantités plus grandes ou plus petites de métal en fusion jusqu'à ce qu'une détérioration minimum du film soit observée.

Les vêtements conçus pour la protection des personnes contre les petites éclaboussures de métal en fusion sont souvent soumis à des charges thermiques élevées. Une fonction importante est donc la résistance au transfert de chaleur à travers le tissu de protection. Avec le PCT:004, un dispositif de WIRA pour les tests de petites gouttes de métal en fusion, des gouttes de métal en fusion sont formées en faisant fondre l'extrémité d'une barre en acier à l'aide d'un chalumeau oxyacétylénique. Une barre est abaissée à une vitesse contrôlée pour créer un flux constant de gouttes. Les gouttes de métal tombent verticalement dans un entonnoir qui les guide sur l'échantillon. Derrière l'échantillon, un capteur de température contrôle la température. Le nombre de gouttes est compté tandis que la température est surveillée et portée à 40 °C. Des vêtements de protection, comme les protections pour les mains, sont conçus pour protéger contre les températures de contact élevées. Dans le PCT:005, l'appareil de test de température de contact de WIRA, le cylindre chauffant est porté à la température de contact souhaitée. La température, normalement située dans la plage de 100 à 500 °C, est réglée au moyen d'un régulateur de température. Des échantillons circulaires sont découpés dans le produit et placés sur le calorimètre. Le calorimètre est ensuite monté en puissance jusqu'à ce qu'un contact ait lieu dans le chauffage, et la température est enregistrée en fonction du temps. La durée d'une montée en température de 10 °C est enregistrée. 

Niki Tait C. Text FCI FCFI heads Apparel Solutions (www.apparelsolutions,co,uk) qui fournit une assistance indépendante et une formation à Apparel Industry dans les domaines des procédés de fabrication, ingénierie industrielle, technologie de l'information, réponse rapide, etc.

AD INDEX Brother Internationale Industriemachine GmbH ..............................................5

Osthoff Senge GmbH & Co. KG ......................................................................11

Loepfe Brothers Ltd ..........................................................................................24

Vetri Engineers ......................................................................................................7

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