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SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2010
department
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pure  september
tableofc
Enjoy the versatility of cooking with nutrient-rich baby greens.
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Superfoods
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Kitchen Confidential
Learn how to pick and prepare artichokes with ease, plus an artichoke recipe that you won’t be able to resist.
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Ask Tosca Tosca distills the health benefits of fermented foods.
contents
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Chez Chef
Get the supplemental facts on omega-3s and DHA.
Crumbly and gooey fig tartlets make the perfect healthy dessert to share.
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Complements
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september
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With three decades of culinary experience behind her, San Francisco-based chef Annie Somerville explains how her farmers’ market connections help inspire the famously fresh menu at Greens Restaurant.
Happy Ending
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Publisher Editor-in-Chief Editorial Director
Robert Kennedy Alicia Rewega Jerry Kindela
Managing Editor Food Editor Research Chief Recipe Creators
Samantha Israel Sandy Cordeiro Anna Lee Boschetto Tara Mataraza Desmond Jill Silverman Hough Jennifer Iserloh Alison Lewis Joanne Lusted Julie O’Hara Ming Tsai Diane Welland
Copy Editor Art Director Associate Art Director Graphic Designer Photo Editor Photographers
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Prop Stylists
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Production Director Production Manager Production Coordinator Production Assistant Online Producer Senior Web Designer Online Production Assistants Social Media Coordinator
RonniLyn Pustil Kevin Shaw Jennifer MacKenzie Pamela Graver Jeff Maltby Paul Buceta Peter Chou Yvonne Duivenvoorden Gregory James Edward Pond Jodi Pudge Joanne Tsakos Ashley Denton Marilyn Dunphy Lindsay Evans Adele Hagan Martine Blackhurst Catherine Doherty Madeleine Johari Genevieve Wiseman Lisa Snow Lynda Sammut Sarah Leslie Kyawnee Rowley Leigh Hargrove Christopher Barnes Erin Morris, Jeff Sykes Amanda Tucci
Submissions All editorial copy, photography and artwork should be sent to Clean Eating, 400 Matheson Blvd. West, Mississauga, Ontario, Canada, L5R 3M1. Call 905.507.3545 or 1.888.254.0767. Clean Eating is not responsible for manuscripts, advertising, film negatives, artwork and photographs, although all reasonable care is taken to prevent loss or damage. Each editorial submission must be sent with a self-addressed envelope and $5.00 for return postage. US stamps cannot be used to mail back from Canada. No part of this magazine may be reproduced in any manner without written permission from the publisher. The beliefs and opinions of contributors do not necessarily reflect those of Clean Eating magazine.
EDITOR’S LETTER There is nothing epicurean in this world that brings me more joy than seafood. Give me shrimp, oysters, crab legs or mussels and you won't hear a peep out of me (as my Dad wouId say) for the duration of an entire meal. I just love the rich flavors and unique textures of seafood. Maybe it 's the Pisces in me, but complete bliss is a simple combination of being seasick and feasting on its bounty. My friends and family can attest to this. How many countless birthday and anniversary celebrations they've endured at my favorite seafood restaurants here in Toronto (Big Daddy's Crab Shack again?). My poor boyfriend is probably beginning to think it might be easier on his wallet if he acquired his own little fishing boat. That's why this issue of Clean Eating has got me so excited. If you've never attempted to have your own seafood cookout, you'll be amazed at how fast and easy seafood is to prepare, not to mention delicious and brimming with essential vitamins, minerals, protein and healthy fats. Turn to page 36 for several rich and robust seafood recipes that can be prepared in less than 25 minutes. And , getting back to the old pocketbook, these recipes, along with those found on page 69, are surprisingly affordable. If seafood isn't your thing, we've got enough pasta recipes in this issue to open up our own Clean Eating cucina. "Endless Pastabilities" (don't you just love the name?), on page 44, boasts 15 easy pasta dishes and five unique sauces for any day, any mood — we even have a cream option (a sauce after my own heart)! Last but not least, we tried something a little different in this issue and had the art and editorial departments submit their own healthy recipes. Flip to page 56 and see what CE staffers cook up at home after being taunted and teased by the recipes and gorgeous food images we obsess over all day long. (I'm telling you, nothing works up an appetite and a desire to hit the market for a night of cooking than flipping through one of our issues.) I’m also excited to announce the debut of a new column called Global Gourmet. In each issue we will profile recipes from around the world created with simple ingredients, so you can re-create them at home, in a flash. Tell us what you think: arewega@cleaneatingmag.com.
Alicia Rewega Editor-in-Chief
ask tosca
eat smart
sweet
sour
By Tosca Reno, Photography By Alana Haldan
pure september
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id you know that you likely already consume a fair share of fermented foods as part of your regular diet? If you like pickles, yogurt or sauerkraut — common examples of such “soured” foods — you are in good company with many others who enjoy these tangy flavors. Fermented foods are very beneficial for your health — they bolster immunity, reduce cholesterol and improve digestion. Our ancestors understood the value and necessity of consuming foods that have under‑ gone the fermentation process. We can learn an important lesson from them as the need to recruit possible agents in the fight against disease accelerates in today’s over-processed food world.
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Fermented foods contain the valuable bacteria Lactobacillus acidophilus. This friendly organism consumes the natural starches and sugars in foods. In doing so, it creates several byproducts, including lactic acid, the agent responsible for preserving your food. As the bacteria do their work, they enhance the nutritional value of the base food by increasing its digestibility, enzyme level and vitamin content. So don’t be shy — go beyond the traditional varieties of fermented foods you know. Here are six to try now.
eat smart
ask tosca
thanks to my daughter Kiersten’s insistence (she is not a big meat eater). She showed me how to cut the tempeh cake into fingers and saute it in a pan. That is all you have to do to it, and it’s delicious!
Kefir: Kefir is made from a culture of friendly bacteria and yeast called “kefir grains.” Kefir-based foods or drinks can be made from a base of goat or cow milk, seed milk or fruit juices . Kefir grains are added to the base liquid, resulting in a slightly tangy, effervescent beverage. Kefir has a powerful ability to heal and restore the bowels, skin and overall health. I eat kefir with my breakfast cereal (particularly muesli) and in smoothies. Miso: Miso is a paste made from cooked and fermented soybeans. A nonalcoholic fermentation takes place, which releases vast amounts of enzymes essential for health. As with all other fermented foods, miso is loaded with minerals. It has a slightly salty taste and lends a rich umami flavor when added to dishes.
Kombucha: I tried this bubbly beverage when I visited my daughter Rachel in Oregon. Everyone in Oregon drinks this fermented stuff like it’s water. When I tried it, I was sure I got a buzz from it. It made me feel amazingly energetic and revived. Kombucha, which gets its name from the tea fungus, is made from fermented sweetened green or black tea leaves; yeast and other friendly bacteria turn it into a delicious tonic. Tofu: Initially a standard protein replacement for vegetarians, tofu is now a part of nearly everyone’s diet — even my husband, a meat eater, who loves tofu in stir-frys. Made from fermented soybeans, the whitish food readily absorbs flavors from other foods it is prepared with (as does chicken) and is valued as a meat alternative. I love tofu in anything, even desserts, particularly my Chocolate Tofu Mousse from the Eat Clean Diet Cookbook. §
Tempeh: Tempeh is made by the controlled fermentation of cooked soybeans in the presence of a mold called Rhizopus oligosporous. The result is a white cake-like substance that has a nutty mushroom-like texture and is dense with readily digestible protein. As a result of the fermentation process, antibiotic agents are produced, while a wide array of phytochemicals (including soy saponins) remain intact. In our house, we eat tempeh
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ask the doc
get active
What do you think about gourmet salts?
pure september
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Recently there's been an explosion of products in the gourmet salt category and, frankly, they look terrific to me. Regular table salt is a highly refined product, consisting of nothing more than sodium and chloride. Gourmet salts are far less refined with a much higher mineral content. Unfortunately, there are no independent studies to confirm this, but it sure passes the “smell” test. Without making any claims I can't back up, let me simply say the reason it's a good bet is because these salts have been mined, in some cases from ancient salt deposits, with absolutely minimum processing. Also, in nature when things contain color (anthocyanins in berries, for example), it's usually a good sign that they contain phytochemicals, minerals and antioxidants. As well, salt is also obtained by evaporating sea water from different regions of the world. Some examples of this category of unrefined salts include Alaea Hawaiian (which has a ruddy red color from a small amount of Hawaiian red clay said to enrich the salt with iron oxide), Himalayan Pink Sea Salt (harvested from salt deposits deep in the Himalayan mountains and said to be uncontaminated and mineral rich), Cyprus Black Lava Flake Salt (made by evaporating Mediterranean sea water using nothing but sun and wind and then mixing it with activated charcoal, a natural detoxifier) and Bolivia Rose (hand-harvested from salt deposits in the Andes mountains and pink from the mineral-rich volcanic lava). Cooks I've spoken to swear by these salts for their noteworthy flavors and stunning colors. They still contain the same amount of sodium as regular salt (about 2,300 mg per teaspoon), so keep that in mind if you're watching your sodium intake.
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ASK anything
Our resident expert has all the answers
By Jonny Bowden, PhD, CNS, Photography By Alana Haldan
I don't eat dairy. Should I worry about getting enough calcium? You should definitely get enough calcium, but you don't have to worry about getting it from dairy. Despite massive efforts by the dairy industry to convince you that milk is the best way to strengthen your bones, the research is far from convincing. One important review article in The American Journal of Clinical Nutrition concluded: “There are too few studies to determine whether dairy foods promote bone health in most of the US population,” though the authors pointed out that milk might be helpful for women under the age of 30. But, according to Amy Lanou, PhD, nutrition director for the Physicians Committee for Responsible Medicine, in Washington, DC, “Increasingly the countries with the highest dairy and calcium consumption are the ones with the highest rates of hip fractures, the marker of osteoporosis.” In fact, Lanou says that in countries where milk, dairy and calcium consumption is almost nonexistent, fracture rates are 50 to 70 percent lower than in milk-drinking countries in North America and Northern Europe. Calcium is defi‑ nitely important, for both men and women. The Food and Nutrition Board at the Institute of Medicine of the National Academies in Washington, DC, recommends 1,300 mg a day for children nine to 18 years old, 1,000 mg for ages 19 to 50, and 1,200 mg for those 50 and older. (So much for the urban myth that women need more calcium than men.) Pregnant women should get between 1,000 and 1,300 mg a day depending upon their age. You can easily get your calcium from non-dairy sources, just as people do in Asia. Try increasing your intake of foods such as sardines and canned salmon (both with the bones, which are a fantastic source of calcium), almonds, broccoli, leafy greens and oranges. And consider supplementation with a good mixed mineral formula that contains not only calcium but synergistic nutrients that may help strengthen your bones, such as boron silica, vitamin K, magnesium and, especially, vitamin D, which plays a key role in your body's ability to absorb calcium. §
SAN FRANCISCO’S
CLEAN TREATS
travel well
chez chef
Take a culinary trip to the Bay Area’s famed Greens Restaurant and be inspired by executive chef Annie Somerville’s obsession with produce and her exclusive recipe. By Chanize Thorpe, Photography By Alana Haldan
he new “Meatless Mondays” trend and Michelle Obama’s White House garden have created renewed national interest in fresh produce, but executive chef Annie Somerville’s veggie love affair spans three decades. She serves up her vegetarian cuisine at San Francisco’s Greens Restaurant, where no one is foggy on the benefits of eating clean.
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Turning om to yum
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In 1979, the San Francisco Zen Center opened Greens with a staff lacking in culinary school and restaurant experience. “All we knew is that we wanted to make beautiful vegetarian dishes that kept within the center’s Buddhist teachings,” says Somerville, who moved with her family from Detroit to San Diego and even‑ tually made her way to San Francisco to practice Buddhism and meditation. She joined Greens two years after it opened, when it was still one of the scarce vegetarian restaurants in the Bay Area. Not a strict vegetarian herself, Somerville occasionally eats chicken and fish. “I call myself a ‘flexitarian’ and I’m honest about that,” she says. To that end, she immersed her‑ self in baptism-by-fire job training, learning how to prepare healthy meatless meals. In 1985, her hard work paid off and she was promoted to executive chef. Since then, Somerville has become one of San Francisco’s most celebrated cooks and has authored two books, Fields of Greens: New Vegetarian Recipes from the Celebrated Greens Restaurant (Bantam, 1993) and Everyday Greens (Scribner, 2003).
The restaurant, located in historic Fort Mason, is said to serve the healthiest dishes in the city. On any given day, tourists, athletes and monks can be found inside the former Army machinery shop, dining on spring rolls stuffed with grilled tofu, Napa cabbage and noodles and rosemary crepes with goat cheese and Meyer lemon cream. And, unlike some city restaurants that rely on their location rather than cuisine, Greens’ menu is as dazzling as its surroundings, with the Golden Gate Bridge and the Bay in the background. Somerville challenges herself by changing her menu each month and creating dishes that appeal to both vegetarians and meat eaters, which she says isn’t a difficult task. “If you cook delicious, satisfying food, meat eaters will love it because it’s all about the quality of the food prepared. We consider ourselves a vegetarian restaurant but people like to come here whether they are vegetarian or not.” And the quality of the food she prepares is a direct result of the key behind Greens’ success — the local farmers’ market.
A “produce scout” In addition to getting a variety of lettuces from the restaurant’s own Green Gulch Farm in Marin County, twice a week Somerville heads to the farmers’ market at the city’s Ferry Building and talks and tastes her way through the stalls. “They’re awash in fabulous ingr‑ edients there,” she says . “My most carefree moments are when I’m at the market talking about food. It’s essential for me that I come to keep abreast of what’s going on out there.” This being California, the state
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grows some of the country’s best produce, which makes every market visit exciting for Somerville, who calls herself the “produce scout.” Each week you’ll find her loading the back of her ancient white Volvo with a bounty of goodies — peaches from Tory Farms for her galette or Bloom Bluff ’s shallots that will ap‑ pear in Greens’ wilted spinach salad and even in Somerville’s own kitchen. “I love it when I can sit down to a meal and find that every element in the dish comes from someone I know.” While Greens doesn’t have a daily special, spontaneous market discoveries make surprise guest appearances in already established dishes. Lemon cucumbers may be added to the Mediterranean salad instead of the Armenian variety it regularly features. Recently a local farm brought in fresh chickpeas, creating a “gotta have it” feeling for Somerville. But having dealt only with the dried variety, she wondered what to do with them. On a whim, she decided to add them to a pasta dish. “I just gave it a shot,” Somerville says, not sure if chickpeas and pasta would mesh well. But, relying on a cornerstone value of faith, the dish turned out well and earned rave reviews.
travel well
If you cook delicious, satisfying food, meat eaters will love it because it’s all about the quality of the food prepared. We consider ourselves a vegetarian restaurant but people like to come here whether they are vegetarian or not.”
Even in October, when the Bay Area gets a taste of warm weather and the ever-present fog has lifted, there’s tons of produce to choose from, while the rest of the country is slowing down. But it is technically fall, so tomatoes, wild mushrooms, peppers and chiles are in abundance and Greens pays homage to the season by dotting the menu with stuffed peppers, poblano-laced quesadillas and hearty tomato-based sauces. When the weather gets cooler, comfort food is the order of the day and Somerville uses both Italian butter and borlotti beans to create saucy dishes that are satisfying without added fat. The world has changed since Somerville first found herself behind a stove with a simple mission of cooking clean meals. Food allergies and increasing dietary demands mean that most chefs need to be creative with their menus and cool under customer pressure. Luckily, Greens’ philo‑ sophy has remained the same since its humble beginnings and little, if any, changes to its concept have been made. Perhaps this is the reason it’s still successful 30 years later. “The whole point was always to offer uncomplicated food,” Somerville says. “And we’re still doing that. That’s never changed.”
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chez chef
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This page, clockwise from top left: Seedlings show the first promise of the bounty to come, farms provide Greens Restaurant with a wealth of produce, radishes are nearly ready for harvest, freshly picked produce provides inspiration to the kitchen. Opposite page: Beautiful farmer's market produce become the centerpiece of dishes at Greens Restaurant.
travel well
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VEGETABLE brochettes
Greens Restaurant executive chef Annie Somerville shares a new recipe exclusively with Pure.
INGREDIENTS MARINATED TOFU 14 oz firm tofu ½ oz dried porcini or shiitake mushrooms 1 tsp dried oregano 2 cloves garlic, sliced 2 tbsp olive oil ¼ cup red wine vinegar ¼ cup low-sodium soy sauce 2 cloves Sea salt and ground black pepper, to taste BROCHETTE MARINADE 1 tbsp red wine vinegar 1 clove garlic, finely chopped 11/2 tsp Dijon mustard 11/2 tsp fresh parsley, finely chopped 11/2 tsp fresh thyme, finely chopped 11/2 tsp fresh oregano, finely chopped 2 tbsp olive oil Sea salt and ground black pepper, to taste
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BROCHETTES
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16 medium mushrooms 1 red or green bell pepper, cut into 1-inch chunks 8 whole cherry tomatoes 3 red or yellow onions, cut into 1-inch chunks 1 zucchini, halved lengthwise and sliced 1 yellow squash, halved lengthwise and sliced 1 Japanese eggplant, sliced into rounds Sea salt and ground black pepper, to taste
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EQUIPMENT Metal or wooden skewers (soak wooden skewers in water for at least 20 minutes prior to use)
INSTRUCTIONS ONE: Prepare Marinated Tofu: Drain tofu and cut into 1-inch-thick slabs. Place tofu on a cutting board and raise one end, positioning the lower end toward the sink to let the water drain. Cover tofu with a tray and weigh it down with a few canned goods. Let tofu drain for about 30 minutes to remove excess water and to allow any marinade used later on to penetrate without being diluted. TWO: In a small saucepot, bring mushrooms and 1 cup water to a boil, then reduce heat to medium-low and let simmer for 15 minutes. Heat a small heavy skillet over medium-high heat and add oregano, slowly toasting until fragrant. Add oregano and remaining Marinated Tofu ingredients, except tofu, to mushrooms and bring to a boil. Then reduce heat to medium-low and simmer slowly for a few more minutes. Strain the marinade through a coffee filter or paper towel. THREE: Remove tofu from draining board. In a 9 x 13-inch glass pan, arrange tofu in a single layer and pour marinade over top to coat. Cover and refrigerate for at least 24 hours.
FOUR: Prepare Brochette Marinade: In a bowl, mix vinegar, garlic, Dijon and herbs. Whisk in the oil and season with salt and black pepper. Set aside until ready to marinade the brochettes. FIVE: Assemble Brochettes: Cut tofu into 1-inch cubes. Thread vegetables and tofu onto skewers, alt‑ ernating ingredients. Arrange finished brochettes on a baking sheet and brush generously with Brochette Marinade, turning to coat all sides. SIX: Using a grill, broiler or grill pan over high heat, grill brochettes for 5 to 10 minutes, rotating until the vegetables are heated through and golden brown. Transfer brochettes to a large serving platter, brush with additional marinade, and season with salt and black pepper. Nutrients per serving (2 long skewers or 4 short skewers): Calories: 264, Total Fat: 75 g, Sat. Fat: 2 g, Monounsaturated Fat: 9 g, Polyunsaturated Fat: 4 g, Carbs: 20 g, Fiber: 8 g, Sugars: 8 g, Protein: 13 g, Sodium: 357 mg, Cholesterol: 0 mg
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chez chef
Step 1 Prepare the tofu. Slice into 1-inch-thick slabs, then drain for 30 minutes.
Step 2 Prepare the tofu marinade. Bring marinade ingredients to a boil, then let simmer for 15 minutes. Once liquid has reduced, strain the marinade.
Step 3 Once tofu has finished draining, arrange in a pan with the marinade, making sure tofu is thoroughly covered. Cover pan and refrigerate for at least 24 hours.
Step 4 Prepare the brochette marinade. Whisk ingredients in a small bowl and season to taste with salt and pepper.
Step 5 Assemble brochettes. Cut tofu and vegetables, then thread ingredients onto skewers. Brush finished brochettes with marinade.
Step 6 Cook brochettes. On a heated grill pan, cook skewers for 5 to 10 minutes, rotating until heated and golden brown. Brush with additional marinade, then season to taste with salt and pepper.
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OTHER
PLACES TO EAT CLEAN IN SAN FRANCISCO THE PLANT CAFE ORGANIC This Embarcadero-area eatery is well known for its “Plant Burgers,” housemade from lentils, mushrooms and bulgur wheat. The Calamari Salad and Fish Taco Plate are also protein pow‑ erhouse meals. Its raw organic juices add a boost of enzymes and vitamins to your meal. theplantcafe.com
LAUREL COURT The Fairmont San Francisco’s rest‑ aurant menu is heavy on clean eats and uses locally farmed produce, great for the business traveler looking to keep to plan while on the road. The Winter greens and Roasted Beet Salad and Fork & Knife Caprese are our top picks. fairmont.com/sanfrancisco
PICA PICA New on the scene in the trendy Mission district is an eatery that serves Venezuelan street food. This gluten-free restaurant serves up cornflour-based sandwiches filled with ingredients such as black beans, pulled pork, chicken salad or veggies. picapicakitchen.com
HERBIVORE, THE EARTHLY GRILL Lime-Marinated Oyster Mushroom Ceviche, Bean Burritos and Baked Falafel are just a few of the dishes on offer at this vegan restaurant that has three locations in the Bay Area. herbivorerestaurant.com §
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PURE FOOD FOR A PURE LIFE