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THE WEEKLY

PLANET

14

THE WOMEN’S EDITION

LAST MINUTE CHRISTMAS GIFT IDEAS

WHY WE

Sean and Lauren Flickr (CC BY 2.0)

ALL

NEED TO KEEP UP WITH THE KARDASHIANS

Issue 1 21st December

ONLY

£1

3

READS TO LEAVE YOU FEELING EMPOWERED The Weekly Planet 1

Why we all need to keep up with the Kardashians

K

imposium!, an academic symposium I organised about all things Kardashian, sold out. And why would it not, given the levels of interest that this family generates?

But there is some dismay at the idea of academic attention being paid to these celebrities. It seems that some people love to hate the Kardashians as much as they love to hate academics.

When energy is spent declaring that something is not worth serious consideration, I know it is important. Because when people devote time and space to condemnation, it immediately makes me wonder what social fears or cultural desires might lie beneath the aggression. This is why these sorts of comments make me more, not less, focused on studying the Kardashians. I am interested in what this family can teach us about ourselves, about our cultural concerns, about how our societies are changing, about our fears and horrors.

The Kardashians can teach us about racism. Kim has had two black husbands and has a black child. Khloe has never dated a white man and Kylie’s current boyfriend is black. Kris, their mother, is dating a black 2 The Weekly Planet

The Kardashians can teach us about femininity and gender. Decades before Judith Butler showed that gender is a learned performance, French psychoanalyst Joan Riviere wrote:

celebrityabc Flickr (CC BY-SA 2.0)

man. There’s no nice way to say that for white America this is still taboo, as a quick glance at the Twittersphere will attest.

Their youngest sister, Kylie, has been accused of co-opting a black “look”, much as Michael Jackson was accused of trying to be white. The Kardashians represent an evolving United States, one in which black/white relations are volatile and central. Inside this family, racial boundaries are being blurred.

Faye Harris Flickr (CC BY-ND 2.0)

Women who wish for masculinity may put on a mask of womanliness to avert anxiety and the retribution feared from men.

In other words, women who want power may choose to present as uber-feminine as a form of self-protection. Is it a coincidence that one of the greatest song writers of our time, Dolly Parton, performs her femininity with a vengeance? The same can be asked of the Kardashians. Powerful self-made business women, could they have gained their power without their glamorous embodiments of womanhood combined with their unthreatening little-girl voices? And how does all this relate to Caitlyn Jenner (who has been appearing on Keeping Up with the Kardashians since 2007), for whom the performance of femininity will determine her future success in mainstream media?

The Kardashians can teach us about bodies and images. Elizabeth Wissinger, the keynote speaker at the Kimposium!, writes about “glamour labour”. Glamour labour

Getty Images Flickr (CC BY 2.0)

is what models do; it involves physical work on the body (dieting, grooming, gym, cosmetic surgery) as well as careful management of a “look”. But it’s no longer just for models. We are all, especially women, now obliged to do glamour labour, to consciously present a visual self. This is most evident on social media, particularly Instagram, where selfies are lovingly curated.

nation to do glamour labour.

Scholarly analysis of popular culture is crucial because popular culture is about far more than entertainment and fashion – it influences cultures, politics and knowledge. The Kardashians are the biggest popular icons of our moment and their power is evident at the highest levels. Kim

The Kardashians glory in their glamour labour, performing their cosmetic surgeries, their workouts, their facials, their makeup, their “waist training” for all to see. They are all surface, all bodies. Their skins, buttocks, breasts, eyes, vulvas, hair, legs and waists circulate via many thousands of tweets and Instagram posts.

The Kardashians represent an evolving United States, one in which black/white relations are volatile and central. Inside this family, racial boundaries are being blurred.

These women are the queens of a world of images where bodies are brutally judged – but where there is also a certain democracy that means beauty is available to anyone with the time, money and incli-

alone has 37m followers on Twitter and recently took a selfie with Hilary Clinton: Clinton of course benefited, knowing that Kim is a conduit through which to communicate to voters who might not oth-

erwise engage. Kim’s husband, musician Kanye West, has declared he will run for president in 2020. Don’t laugh. Remember Ronald Reagan. Then imagine Kim as First Lady.

Superficial, apparently talentless and famous for being famous, the Kardashians are accessible and in some ways ordinary.

Their sibling rivalries, their sad divorces, their pregnancies, are all played out on our screens in lurid detail. One of the most fascinating things they do is blur public and private. We never know what’s being performed and what is “real”.

In a world where we increasingly perform our own everyday lives on social media as well as quietly living them, this most unprivate of families shows us what we have become. They show how to live between real and virtual worlds, between representation and sensation. The Kardashians show us ourselves.

Meredith Jones The Conversation (CC BY-ND 4.0)

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THREE ‘FEMINIST’ READS TO LEAVE YOU FEELING EMPOWERED 1. Caitlin Moran: How To Be A Woman

I was so late to this party it's unreal, but after picking up a brand new copy of this in a local charity shop for a quid (hoorah!)

I found myself reading it non stop in the space of about a week. Part memoir, part moral compass, Caitlin tells the story of her childhood and adolescence with hilarity; this book is so relatable and so cringe-worthy that it had be laughing out loud and gasping almost simultaneously.

From her experience with periods and bras, to how she learned to stand up for herself within a male-dominated workplace and tackled marriage-and-kids when she really wasn't suited/ready/capable of it, this leaves you feeling like it's absolutely awesome to be a woman - but not in a cheesy or patronising way. I'm downloading everything else she's ever written in the hope her future books will give me a continual kick up the backside.

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2. Lena Dunham: 3. Sophia Amoruso: Not That Kind Of Girl #GirlBoss Hailed as 'the woman of our generation', Lena is most famous for writing and staring in HBO's Girls. Sex and the City it's not, tackling raw issues and refusing to glamorise the struggles 20-something women face in our modern world. Her book is cut from the same cloth, providing a series of short stories and reflective pieces that tell the story of her youth and early 20's. I don't know if I enjoyed this book or not, but it definitely makes you think - the whole first section reflects upon sex and relationships, basically illustrating Lena's lack of self worth and ability to let herself be treated like absolute filth by any guy that would give her the time of day. She discusses sexual abuse and her complex relationship with food, as well as her ongoing battles with depression and continual visits to her psychiatrist. The book didn't endear me to her, but it did leave me feeling empowered to let people treat me only in the way I want to be treated - if anything, this is a 'how to' guide on how *not* to live your life. Some parts did make me chuckle and I could relate to her on some level, but this isn't an empowering book in the traditional sense: you have to take your own message from it.

Every single woman needs a copy of this on their bookshelf. I devoured this in a matter of days, learning the incredible story of Sophia's success - from high school drop out and petty thief, to eBay seller and vintage fashion expert, and now one of the most successful businesswomen in America. What I loved about Sophia's story is that she's relatable; she hasn't come from a privileged background (in terms of money, education or opportunities,) but she's worked for what she has and grafted all the way. In this book she tells her story while integrating motivational messages and top tips for success; she doesn't give any magic answers, but she does help to inspire and empower the reader by telling them it's all there for the taking if you just work hard enough. I had to give up reading this before bed as it made me want to get up and start working, switching to digesting it on the train when I could actually jot down notes and start putting things into practice. If you've been floundering or aren't sure what direction to take with your professional life, or just need a little boost, then this is definitely a book to buy today.

Hayley Carr London Beauty Queen (CC BY-NC-ND 3.0)

Calvin Merry Flickr (CC BY-NC-ND 2.0)

LONDON FASHION WEEK 2015

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Jeong Chan-ick Flickr (CC BY-ND 2.0)

What is the 'TRUE' spirit of the season?

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I

had to laugh at the “controversy” around the Starbucks “holiday” cups. Since I grew up Jewish, I might not be the best person to weigh in on a Christmas debate, but I doubt any of the other people throwing their opinions out are any more qualified. It seems like the contro-versy was kicked up by a very few people who had nothing better to do with their lives than offer opinions on nothing.

If you show your religion based on the color of your take-out coffee cup, maybe you should rethink your faith. You would do better to pay for the coffee of the person behind you than make the person behind a coffee counter write your name as “Merry Christmas.” And, really, how can you call it a boycott if you are advising people to go in, BUY coffee, then give your name as Merry Christmas?

I admit, I do not buy coffee from Starbucks. I did once and found it expensive and too strong for my tastes. And, with my husband will-ing to brew me a cup every morning, why not save my $2 to $5 for something more important? However, I took the time to look up past Starbucks’ Christmas coffee cups online. Maybe I missed something in my comparative religion classes, but when were snowflakes and snowmen the definitive symbol of a holiday marking Christ’s birth? Were Mary and Joseph visited by Frosty in the Bethlehem barn?

I always think that actions are more important than words. It is like the ongoing debate of people between “Merry Christmas”

peterskim Flickr (CC BY-NC-ND 2.0)

and “Happy Holidays.” If someone wishes me well, it gives me a warm feeling, no matter what the words. As someone who only started celebrating a modified form of Christmas after marrying someone of the Christian faith, “Merry Christmas” doesn’t come easy. But I don’t get offended if someone doesn’t wish me a “Happy Chanukah.”

It is a debate I have had with atheist friends of mine. Some of them can’t understand why they are asked to “say a prayer” for someone who is going through a hard time. I try to explain that by saying you will pray for someone is not for your faith, it is for theirs. And if someone asks for prayers, will telling them you are “thinking of them” really hurt anyone?

Words are fickle. Actions are not.

If you show your religion based on the color of your take-out coffee cup, maybe you should rethink your faith.

So for those who are offended by the plain red cups of Starbucks because they have forgotten about Christmas, maybe you should take your coffee cup and read the Bible.

Or just take the money you would have spent on that cup of coffee and put it into a charity can.

Maybe then you will remember the true meaning of the season.

Jan Gottesman Telegram (CC BY-NC-SA 3.0 US)

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8 The Weekly Planet

Erin Wasson by Ellen von Unwerth Flickr (CC BY 2.0)

Wild

AND FREE

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Ben Houdijk Flickr (CC BY-NC-ND 2.0)

Adele’s album isn’t available to stream, but she may be swimming against the tide 10 The Weekly Planet

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The timing is auspicious: the Mercury Prize is about to be awarded, an annual prize which crowns the best album of the year released by a British or Irish artist or band. The continuance of such a prize and Adele’s stand against the emphasis on single tracks privileged by streaming calls into question the contemporary relevance of the album format as an artform.

Think about it. When was the last time you listened to an album? Really listened to an album? Perhaps with headphones, not when jogging, or commuting?

At least as far back as 2004, scholars have proposed that music listening is becoming more passive. Certainly, smartphones and streaming services have encouraged a more song-oriented way of music listening, with tech companies keen to develop the latest and greatest new music subscription service. It is also evident that YouTube is a particularly popular way of discovering and listening to music, which also suggests a disconnect from conventional ways of engaging in the album format. Notably, much of the music on YouTube is in breach of copyright.

But a series of studies from Amanda Krause and colleagues directly challenge the notion that streaming means that music fans are becoming more passive. For instance, active use of shuffle and playlist functions was evident. The authors argued that the more control technology affords, the more complex the patterns of music listening. As reported by the Guardian, a quarter of all songs listened to on Spotify are skipped in the first five seconds. So people clearly know what they don’t want to listen to. But does this active interest in music extend to entire albums?

Despite the appearance that digital music dominates the marketplace, the most recent report from The International Federation of the Phonographic Industry reveals that digital and physical revenues are matched. That is, people are still very much engaged in buying physical albums.

But which albums are being bought is clearly changing: the top-selling album of

the last year was the official soundtrack to Disney’s animated film Frozen.

And the album isn’t as embedded in musical culture as we might think. If we rewind a few generations, it was all about singles. The album format only came along later, exemplified with the concept records of the 1970s. This was not an artistic step forward but merely a result of technological advancements, affording musicians more room to create longer recordings.

So it’s intriguing that with digital music no longer imposing any time-related barriers, new releases still tend to last roughly around as long as they did when music was primarily consumed on CD. Despite an increasing lack of public interest in albums, the industry hasn’t changed its colours. Things do look as though they might be shifting, but this is happening slowly: recent releases from the likes of Godspeed You! Black Emperor and The Smashing Pumpkins (both known for long albums) suggest that musicians themselves are finally buying into the notion that their fans no longer wish to commit to an hour (or more) of auditory indulgence.

Spotify in fact decreases both legal and illegal downloads. And, the hoohah surrounding Adele’s new album suggests that some people have forgotten that music lives in other corners of the internet than just Spotify.

But other artists including Radiohead have gone on to release albums after experimenting with the extended player format despite publicly expressing concern over the contemporary relevance of the album.

And the Pixies confused fans by bundling songs from three EP’s into their comeback album Indie Cindy. The strategy was seen to be a “craven cash-in”.

So perhaps the album is a lost and meaningless relic of the past. Stephen Witt goes so far as to argue that it is the album format that is killing the music industry – not music piracy. Reflecting on hip-hop in particular, he argues that albums with filler actually encourage piracy. Why pay

for a whole album when you only like a few songs?

Legal services such as Spotify now cater for curious music fans, and Witt explains that though consumers are now less likely to pirate music, they are also less likely to buy albums. Recent research highlights that Spotify in fact decreases both legal and illegal downloads. And, the hoo-hah surrounding Adele’s new album suggests that some people have forgotten that music lives in other corners of the internet than just Spotify.

Nevertheless the question marks hanging over the album format are wide-reaching.

It has even been proposed that it might be more profitable to release songs than albums.

But although the album format appears to be in crisis, it has appeared this way for over a decade. With the increasing popularity of playlists, it may be that people are strapping in for a different type of long haul, or that the criteria of a “good album” now varies.

If there has been any major shift it has been the emphasis on live concerts rather than recorded music, with established musicians happy to give their albums away for free – this is an effective way of promoting live concert attendance, where most musicians now make most of their earnings.

In any case, it is likely that musicians will continue to create albums and consumers will continue to listen to them simply because that is what was established many years ago. They will also continue to be celebrated with industry awards. And though the artists shortlisted in the Mercury Music Prize are likely to receive a boost in popularity, it will be Adele’s new album which will dominate, particularly considering her dismissal of streaming culture.

Steven Caldwell Brown The Conversation (CC BY-ND 4.0)

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Franklin Heijnen Flickr (CC BY-SA 2.0)

dele has joined Taylor Swift’s ranks in the war against the streaming culture of Spotify and Apple Music.

Her latest album, 25, will not be available on these services. A record shop in Tennessee is to open at midnight in anticipation – but I shouldn’t expect any queues.

14 GREAT LAST MINUTE CHRISTMAS GIFTS FOR THE GLAM GIRLS IN YOUR LIFE re ‘Lights C am Athough

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eyeshadows, four lip glosses, two blushers and three brush applicators, this compact treat provides everything you need to get festive party ready - for an incredible price. It folds down into a compact palette, meaning it’s perfect for popping in your bag or packing for a romantic getaway.

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Definitely one for those of you feeling flush, this delightfully vintage looking bottle hides a surprisingly modern and refreshing scent. Described as “a radical take on Jasmine that marries the exotic solar beauty of the Indian flower and the sparkling suavity of a tangerine squeeze, a fruit delicacy exclusively enjoyed by the Royal Society in the 1800s,” Atkinsons have perfected the combination of two often contradictory scents.

set is that you can either gift it as one thing to a singular lipgloss addict, or split it up into three. The giant box contains three mini packs, all wrapped individually, which each contain five mini lipglosses. Tarte are one of those brands I’m always hearing about but have only recently got my hands on and they don’t disappoint. This is the perfect introduction for anyone looking to expand their beauty repertoire.

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as a brand anyway, but their new ‘Private Collection’ just has that extra edge. Held in a delightful glass jar and finished with a classic ‘seal’, these candles are utterly gorgeous. The ‘Tiger Grass’ scent is perfect for this time of year, complementing the fragrance of a freshly trimmed tree, but will be as equally uplifting come the spring. One for me, one for them?

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technically an advent calendar, there’s not actually anything on this to give the game away - it just contains twelve doors that each reveal a set of fabulously fluttering lashes. Inspired by classic movies, each movie reel behind the movie board exterior is hiding a lash treat that’s certain to add some Hollywood glamour to this holiday season. Perfect for any lash addicts, this also offers a significant saving off the usual individual price. Get it now, exclusively online, before it’s gone.

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They’ve created wearable tones, packed them in delightfully practical palettes and slipped it all into a lustworthy animal print box. This double decker palette features the ultimate classic colour essentials for on the go glamour - including four eyeshadows, two blushers and a lipgloss.

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Sanctuary started to diversify into home fragrance, and boy am I glad they have. Affordable, simple and deliciously scented, this mini pack of six candles includes Winter Bark & Sage, Orange Spice and Black Rose & Cassis amongst others. It’s like a touch of Jo Malone without the eye wateringly expensive price tag! These mini candles provide a sneak peek of what their full size numbers have to offer.

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This season hair straightening maestros Cloud Nine have teamed up with designer Emilio de la Morena to create this limited edition golden bag - which also doubles up as a heat mat. The subtle design is reminiscent of the 1920’s, but that doesn’t overpower the fact that this is a darn good set of straighteners. If you’re after tools that have the power to style your hair without overdoing the heat, then this is what you need to ask Santa for this year.

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exclusive ‘T-Sonic technology’ provides thorough, yet gentle, cleansing by channeling trans-dermal sonic pulsations across the skin’s surface; this handheld device will apparently give your skin a smoother and more refined appearance in just three days - just what you need to start of a new year. I love my Foreo because it works so gently, as well as providing a more hygienic experience that doesn’t require constant brush head replacement.

Expensive, but worth every penny.

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and a real treat for any lipstick lovers! A concept usually resigned to the underwear department, this year Clinique have embraced our need for something different every day and created this clever twist on a gift set. Their ‘Days Of The Week’ set features their longest-wearing lipstick formula in seven limited-edition shades. From Take-On Tuesday (a bright pretty coral) to Sassy Saturday (a rich red), there s a custom-colour for every mood and occasion.

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Pixi, you do know how to create beautiful and lustworthy treats. From their contouring kits, eye palettes and silky eyeliner quads, there’s a gift for everyone this festive season. I really love the packaging this year that nods to Christmas without being too OTT; it’s elegant, sophisticated and fun.

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of the best brushes for creating a subtle smokey look.

Created with a special design that ensures perfect control even for the trickiest of eyeliner looks, each brush helps you to draw, colour and line to perfection.

In my opinion you can’t really get better than Real Techniques for eye brushes, and this set offers up a great way to introduce a loved one to the wonder of this brand.

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The Weekly Planet 13

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PLANET

Elora S Flickr (CC BY-NC-ND 2.0)

THE WOMEN’S EDITION

NEXT ISSUE: 28TH DECEMBER 14 The Weekly Planet