3 minute read
ALASKA TRENDS
Let’s not overstate the explosion of popularity that sourdough bread enjoyed in the early days of the COVID-19 pandemic. Yes, as Vanessa Orr’s “Sourdough Lives” reports, home baking experienced such a surge in March 2020 that stores ran short of baker’s yeast. Bakers improvised with wild yeast, which in symbiosis with acid-secreting bacteria gives sourdough its distinct flavor and texture.
However, an article from a month before the COVID-19 lockdown was already reporting that sourdough bread was on the rise (so to speak). And, as is not uncommon for such trend pieces, the same phenomenon was reported years earlier, a perennial novelty.
Sourdough has been perpetually popular in Alaska at least since the Gold Rush of 1898. Much of that history is documented in Susannah T. Dowds’ 2017 master’s thesis for a degree in Northern Studies from UAF, which informed “Sourdough Lives” and this edition of Alaska Trends. By counting references in newspapers, Dowds documented an explosion in mentions after Klondike stampeders survived their first winter. Many of those were reprints of a March 1899 wedding announcement from a Koyukuk River gold camp that recorded this marriage vow:
I’ll love and protect her, this maiden so frail
From those sourdough bums on the Koyukuk trail.
Ever since, sourdough has been part of Alaska’s cultural identity, both the food and the name. Even cheechakos can participate with little more than a jar of flour and water, tended carefully like a microbial pet.
Now, before this introduction goes stale, here are some hot and fresh facts about sourdough.
To read about a business that dates to the Klondike Gold Rush, choose page 98.
For a company that rose to the challenge of COVID-19, choose page 51.
Official Documentation
Newspapers compiled from the Library of Congress, "Chronicling America" Archive, and the California Digital Newspaper Collection document the use of "Sour Dough" twice in Alaska before 1897 and twelve times in 1899.
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FOOD PLACE PERSON METONYMY
30
10
0
1865 1870
Original Recipe
The 1st recorded use of sourdough was in 1500 BCE by Egyptian bakers
1875 1880 1885
Sourdough Tourist
by 1894 referred to visitors to Yellowstone Park who brought their own provisions
1890 1895 1900
Sourdough Stiffs
or "sourdough boys" became terms for old timers by 1898
Sourdough bread sales totaled $326M by 2019, growing 11% between 2015 & 2019 while total bread sales remained flat
SOURCE: Nielsen
On the Menu
Sourdough bread appeared on 11.6% of restaurant menus in 2009, growing to 14.3% in 2019
SOURCE: Nielsen
Rising Dough
The market value of sourdough increased nearly 10x from 2014 to 2018 from $298.7M to $2.4B
SOURCE: Grand View Research
Last Frontier
50 bacteria & 20 yeast species have been found in sourdough cultures, but in all likelihood, other undiscovered bacteria and yeasts exist in starters all over the world.
In 1 tsp
1 teaspoon of sourdough starter harbors aprox 50M yeasts & 5B lactic acid bacteria “Sourdough” is in the name of
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active Alaska businesses
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