All about Ammolite Most gems used in jewelry are minerals or stones, formed by inorganic chemical processes beneath the earth’s surface. These substances are prized for their geometric beauty as well as their rarity, but some gemstones have their origins in life itself. The World Jewellery [sic] Confederation recognizes only three “organic gemstones” -- amber, the fossilized sap of trees; pearls, the hidden treasure of oysters; and ammolite, the multicolored and iridescent shells of ancient sea creatures called ammonites. Over 70 million years ago, North America was covered in a shallow sea, abundant with marine life. Ammonites were mollusks that thrived in these waters and bore a distinctive spiraled shell reminiscent of a tightly coiled ram’s horn. In fact, the name “ammonite” is inspired by this shape: Pliny the Elder (d. 79 AD near Pompeii) classified these fossils ammonis cornua ("horns of Ammon"), after the Egyptian god Ammon (Amun), who is typically portrayed wearing ram’s horns. While ammonite fossils can be found all over the world, only those found along the eastern edge of the Rocky Mountains in the U.S. and Canada have an iridescent outer shell as a result of replacement by aragonite. The iridescent phenomenon in ammolite is caused by the interference of light reflecting off stacked layers of thin microscopic platelets that make up the replaced aragonite in the ammonite shell. The thickness of these aragonite platelets determines the colors present in the sample. Thick, well-ordered stacks result in red; thinner, less well-ordered stacks present as green; and blue hues are due to extremely thin stacks. Because a thinner layer of platelets is more fragile, and rarely found undamaged, gems with blue or violet coloring are typically more sought after and more expensive. The organic nature of this gem means every piece is unique, and the variety of colors and textures give every specimen a stunningly original look. Unlike cut gemstones, which rely on their facets to reflect light and sparkle, ammolite is usually finished as a polished cabochon, often in more natural, sometimes asymmetrical shapes. These rounded forms enhance the organic beauty of the ammolite, a simpler cut allowing the color and iridescence to take center stage. Ammolite enjoyed a boost in popularity in the 1990s, when renowned feng shui master Edward Kui Ming Li began calling it “the most influential stone of the millennium” and “seven-color prosperity stone.” Some practitioners believe that each color present in the gem resonates with a particular energy: For example, crimson stimulates growth and energy; orange generates creativity and increased libido; green improves wisdom and promotes business enterprises; yellow improves wealth; and blue promotes peace and health. As a decorative element in the home or office, ammolite is thought to promote prosperity and happiness, and, when worn on one’s person, as in a pendants or men’s rings, the gem is believed to promote the flow of “Qi” throughout the body.
Whatever one’s spiritual beliefs, ammolite is an undeniably vibrant gem, and has been embraced enthusiastically by jewelry designers all around the world. Designers who favor a more natural, organic feel to their jewelry have long used ammolite in Damascus steel rings, set it against the coastal beauty of mother of pearl, or paired it with irregular textures like gold nugget jewelry. Ammolite is a perfect material for this aesthetic, and is quickly gaining popularity. A splash of color so striking needs little embellishment, so many designers favor a simple setting of white or yellow gold, perhaps accented by a diamond or two. Fine jewelers such as Alaska Jewelry carry a wide selection of ammolite jewelry.