ZIPPED SPRING 2016
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SPRING 2016
ISSUE 17 | ZIPPED MAGAZINE
BRIEFS 06 GET THE LOOK Upgrade your wardrobe with statement prints, bright colors, and ‘90s throwbacks 08 TALKING TEXTURE Ditch the hair products for a natural ‘do 10 LET IT SHINE The dewy skin makeover 11 FALKING IT Try these tempory beauty tricks
F E AT U R E S 12 A NEW GENERATION Young designers step into prominent roles 15 FINE ART Fhasion meets craft with artwork by Su students 22 CAUGHT ON CAMERA The authenticity of fhasion week street style 24 MADE IN AMERICA The U.S fhasion takeover 26 T WO FOR THE ROAD The ‘60 make a comeback this season
ENDINGS 36 SLEEP NO MORE Take pajamas from the sheets to the streets 37 FASHION FROM FILM Stile inspiration straight from the cinema 38 Q+A WITH ALIZA LIGHT Zipped gets the inside scoop from former DKNY PR Girl 2 | ZIPPED
TOP LEFT PHOTOGRAPHED BY MICHAEL ISENBURG, MODELED BY FIONA LENZ, DRESS BY CONNER IVES TOP RIGHT PHOTOGRAPHED BY ALLEN CHIU, MODELED BY ANA VENDRELL, HAIR & MAKEUP BY JULIA WELCH, DRESS BY REFORMATION, SCARF BY J.CREW MIDDLE LEFT PHOTOGRAPHED BY MICHAEL ISENBURG,“TURNED” BY ILANA WOLFSON, MATERIALS: PAPER TOWELS, ACRYLIC PAINT, BLACK SEWING STRING MIDDLE RIGHT PHOTOGRAPHED BY ALLEN CHIU, MODELED BY MARIE LAWRENCE, SHIRT BY MÍSHI NEW YORK, LINGERIE BY ALLEN CHIU INTIMATES BOTTOM LEFT PHOTOGRAPHED BY ALLEN CHIU, MODELED BY SOFIA ZAVALA, HAIR & MAKEUP BY MARILYN MUSTERAIT, TOP BY H&M, SKIRT BY ALEXA CHUNG FOR AG JEANS, SUNGLASSES BY STELLA MCCARTNEY BOTTOM RIGHT PHOTOGRAPHED BY MICHAEL ISENBURG, MODELED BY CHLOE HANLEY, HAIR & MAKEUP BY JULIA WELCH, TOP BY H&M COVER PHOTOGRAPHED BY MICHAEL ISENBURG, MODELED BY CHLOE HANLEY, HAIR & MAKEUP BY JULIA WELCH, TOP BY H&M, SUNGLASSES BY FOREVER 21
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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
S
pring forward Clocks and wardrobes change signifying warmer days and fresh starts lie ahead. This year, my favorite season also marks a close: the end of my time here at Syracuse. While I admit I am going to miss the comfort and familiarity of my daily routine, particularly 2 p.m. Kubal coffee breaks, I’m equally excited to experience something new, to challenge myself, and to think differently. For the first time in three years, my schedule will not be strategically planned out months in advance. The possibilities are endless, especially now that bad lottery numbers are not dictating my choices. (I’m convinced MySlice is rigged.). This issue, Zipped invites you to free yourself and take a new direction. Turn to page 38 and learn how to reinvent your image with the help of former DKNY PR Girl Aliza Licht who recently stepped down from her 17-year position as SVP of Global Communications at Donna Karan New York to start her own strategic consulting brand, Leave Your Mark LLC (Q+A). Or, revamp your spring beauty look with a few easy,
commitment-free tricks that make a dramatic impact (Fakeup, p. 11). Read Battle of the Brands on page 12 and discover how younger designers are breaking into the once-impenetrable industry and making their presences known with the help of social media. If you’re looking for some inspiration, pack up your bags and take a cue from our retro-inspired fashion spread to travel cross-country in style even if the destination is unclear (Route ’66, p. 26). As I continue on my own undefined journey in the coming months, I realize it’s not the end, but rather the simple prospect of moving forward that matters most. Taking any step means progress. Cheers to the hopeful wanderers exploring their own possibilities. You never know your limits until you’ve tested them. Bon voyage,
Eliza Weinreb Editor-in-Chief
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GET THE LOOK 1. BACKPACK $795, YSL; ysl. com 2. SHOES $250, Kate Spade New York; katespade. com 3. SUNGLASSES $340, Garrett Leight; garrettleight.com 4. SHORTS $29.90, Zara; zara. com 5. BELT $17, Asos; asos. com 6. COAT $169, Zara; zara. com 7. BANDANA $12.50, Madewell; madewell.com
ALL STARS Hit the ‘90s greatest styles... one more time.
F K L A T
or decades, women worked to iron, curl, and blowtheir hair pur to fir sociery’s beauty ideals. Thankfully, the rules of hair care have been broken as womennow embrace their natural texture. “I think ‘beautiful hair’used to be very styled and perfectly placed. Now, I believeit’s just hair that is healthy with a great haircut and hair color,”says Stephanie Dantuono, founder and owner of AdagioSalon in Syracuse, NY. Find ways to enhance your texture instead of trying tochange it. Natural products help style some of the unrulier hair, taming it just enough so you can wake up, add a little product, and walk out the door.
TEXTURE
TO M E
Embrace your natural hair with this season’s top beauty trend. BY MADISON BREAUX
fine
Girls with thin hair often complain their locks fall lifelessly.The best way to embrace finer texture is to avoid heavy mosses and gels. Jillian Salomone, owner of J.Luxe Salon in Syracuse, suggests using a thickening spray like Dallas by R+Co (randco.com, $ 28) to give fine hair some extra volume.
thick
Thicker haired ladies often want a smooth look, frequently reaching for the flat iron. Instead of running the hot tool all over, focus on the areas that need extra attention. Salomone recommends using a heat protectant spray like Chi’s 44 Iron Guard Thermal Protection Spray (Ulta, $15) to prevent damage so hair looks sleek instead of fried
wavy
Soft layers help create perfect wavy locks. To enhance thenatural texture and add extra shine, Salomone suggests using Aprés Beach Wave and Shine Spray by Oribe (oribe.com, $39) . “You spray from the bottom up while your hair is damp or dry and out the door you go,” she says
curly
photographed by michael isenburg modeled by samantha robles hair & makeup by julia welch
Ditch heavy products that weigh down your ringlets. Opt fora hydrating leave-in conditioner like Ouidad’s Moisture Lock Leave-In Conditioner (Ouidad, $26) and style with a gel to tame any unwanted frizz. When it comes to curls, the bigger the beter, so embrace any remaining pouff and finish with hairspray to hold.
PHOTOGRAPHED BY MICHAEL ISENBURG MODELED BY SAMANTHA ROBLES HAIR & MAKEUP BY JULIA WELCH
BY ERIN REIMEL
GLOSSED OVER Move away from matte and let your skin shine with a dewy makeover.
M
atte foundations and liquid lipsticks are being traded for a glossier, more luminescent look all over. The spring makeup trend dominated the runways at Opening Ceremony, Marc Jacobs, and Alexander Wang, proving natural sheen is the ultimate coolgirl summer look. “It’s very editorial,” says Emma Rainear, senior educating consultant at Sephora. Rainear has seen a rise in products catering to girls looking for aglossy eye or extra glowy skin. MAC’s Studio EyeGloss (maccosmetics.com, $22) is one of the launches tailored to helping customers mimic the style. Apply it all over the eye for an effortless, nomakeup look or layer it over a cream shadow to amp up the pigments for a more dramatic take. For theskin, Rainear says mixing a luminous foundation with a highlighting primer like Kevyn Aucoin’s The Celestial Skin Liquid Lighting (Sephora.com, $52) will give skin the glow it needs.
Finish it off with the Tatcha Luminous Dewy Skin Mist (Sephora.com, $48) for an intense yet wearable look. The key is to use very thin layers so it doesn’t get too messy. Makeup artist James Boehmer applied clear lip gloss to models’ eyelids and cheekbones at the spring/summer 2016 Opening Ceremony show. At Marc Jacobs, FranНois Nars used this same technique by layering Vaseline on the lids, cheekbones, and under the eyes of the models. This method reflects ligth and creates a dewier finish on top of the skin. A cut favorite product for a glossy finish is Glossier’s The Balm Dotcom (glossier.com.$12)- It’s a skin salve that’s meant to boost hydration, but it also works all over the face for an extra dewy, natural complexion. Balms and glosses make for easy application with just a touch of the products patted in with the fingers. It’s simple and effortless. Sweating in the sumer sun never looked so good.
BOLD BROWS The thicker the brows, the better. Aim for a defined arch with a ligth, feathery finish. Using an eyebrow pencil brush like the Anastasia Beverly Hills Brow Wiz (Sephora,$20) or a basic matte eye shadow the same shade as your brow haur, lightly fill in sparse spots. “For the most natural appearance, star filling in at the top arch of your brow working towrds the end, “ says Tammy Kontak, beauty stylist at Garbo’s Salon & Spa in Syracuse, NY. “then finish up at the front portion of the brow”. She suggests spraying hairspray on a tootbrush or spooly and running it through for an all-day hold.
FAKE THE CHOP Khloè Kardashian and Jennifer Lawrence captured media attention by cutting off theirhair and opting for fresh, “just rolled out of bed” styles. Instead of chopping off all of yourlocks, create this sexy “cut” without trimming an inch. It’s best to use second or third-day hair. Begin by adding some texture with a dry shampoo or texturizing spray. “Section off the hair into medium-sized portions, and then tuck the hair under and secure with a bobby pin,” says Kontak. “Finish off by running your fingers or comb through all of the hair so it naturally flows together, and then spritz a flexible hairspray”
FULL OF FRECKLES
PLUMED UP POUT
If you’ve ever dreamed of a having a freckled face like siwties icon Charlotte Rampling, find an eyeliner pencil in a color a few shades darker than your skin tone, such as Make Up For Ever’s Kohl Pencil (Sephora, $18). Lightly dot where you want the freckles, like around your T-zone, or try one prominent beauty mark for a sultry Marilyn Monroe vibe.
Instead of splurging or pricey lip fillers, overline your lips the old-fashioned way. Kontak says for the most natural look, it’s best tochoose a lip liner shade closest to the lipstick color you plan on using. Then, start by overlining the lips from the center of your cupid’s bow (the area right below your nose) and movecloser towards your natural lip line as you reach the corner. For an easy application and plenty of color options, try MAC’s Lip Pencil(MAC, $16.50) or Urban Decay’s 24/7Glide-On Lip Pencil (Sephora, $20).
FAKE UP Enhance your beauty look with these tempory transformations.
Beauty trends change in the blink of an eye. But quick tricks make it possible to keep up with the looks of the moment. If you’re hesitant to go all in with a total makeover, Zipped discovered a few commitment-free ways to switch things up.
As legendary designers leave their fashion houses, smaller labels make their presences known. BY MARY ANDERSON
O
ut of the five 2016 CFDA nominees for WomenswearDesigner of the Year, only one—Marc Jacobs—was founded before 2005. Starting a brand to compete with multi-billion dollar fashion houses may seem like an impossible feat, but it’s one that Young designers are willing to try with the help of social media. Newer brands are being publicized much faster than in the past, thanks to their online presences. Emerging designers depend on more than good reviews to build support in the industry. “There are a lot more brands tan there were 20 years ago…and we also have more exposure to brands. Twenty years ago you wouldn’t have known [about the brands] unless you read every magazine ever. But now if you go online [there is] more access to more information,” says Lauren Sherman, the New York editor for Business of Fashion.
ticzed focusing on the Kardashian family. Similary, Burberry chief executive officer Christopher Bailey+s choice of David and Victoria Beckham’s 16-year-old son, Brooklyn, to photograph the brand’s next campaign raised a few eyebrows, according to a BBC. com article. Yet, both the Kardashians and Brooklyn Beckham have millions of followers, promising an increase in online presence for the older houses. According to digital intelligence firm L2, Burberry has the top Digital iQ Index ranking, meaning that the brand performs exceptionally well online and may be headed in the right direction by incorporating Beckham into its brand.
Evenifbrands thrive online, they can struggle to make aprofit. “Rarely are new designers really even selling. Brand new designers are just showing floor pieces or a collection of 8-14 pieces,” says fashion historian and New York Times bestselling writer E.P. Cutler. They often lacj the financial resources that a larger, older brand may “ESTABLISHED HOUSES Vetements, which has only been have, making it difficult for them to profit THAT HAVE A WINNING showing since fall 2014, received rave quickly in the international market. FORMULA OF A reviews for its spring/summer 2016 Although social media has aided both collection. That popularity has translaSUCCESSFUL CREATIVE emerging and established brands, it has ted virtually to the brand’s 300K plus also made it difficualt to stay at the top. “I DIRECTOR, A HIGHLY Instagram following as of March 2016. dont think it`s a Young versus old brand PROFITABLE COLLECTION, thing. I think it´s the matter of the resourAND A STRONG SOCIAL “If you look at Vetements, I think ces you have and using them… It´s really MEDIA FOLLOWING MAY a really big reason Demna [Gvasalia] difficualt to remain relevant no matter was hired at Balenciaga is because his STILL FEEL THE NEED TO what brand you are,” Sherman says. work is huge on street style… [BalenCHANGE THEIR CREATIVE Established houses that have a winning ciaga] wants to be huge on Instagram formula of a successful creative director, DIRECTION.” and they want the images of those a highly profitable collection, and a strong clothes everywhere,” Sherman says. social media following may still feel the Vetements and other younger brands’ need to change treir creative direction. social media impact may influence In the past year, Alexander Wang left Bawho`s chosen as the next creative directors for older houses. Though lenciaga, Raf Simons left Dior, anda Alber Elbaz left Lanving, some millennils may not be a luxury brand´s target market, their significant controversially and some on good terms. sharing-and-buying power makes it essential for established brands to build fanbases. In April, Yves Saint Laurent erased irs Instagram post following Instead of dramatically altering a brand´s aesthetic to appeal to younger audiences, older fashion houses have rebranded themselves through social media to relate to the massive millennial online presence. They`ll collaborate with or feature a popular Instagram start to boost their own folloring or popularity. But this ccan come at a Price. Nota ll consumers are as accepting of the brand´s social media direction, even if theis muses have a lot of followers. Balmain´s creative director, Oliver Rousteing, has often been cri-
Heidi Slimane´s departure and posted a single image of the new creative director, Anthony Vaccarello, dramatically marking the end of this reign. Despite the constant musicr l chairs of creative direction, a primary concern for some fashion critics is hiring designers who will stay åtrue to the house´s heritage rather than focus on profit margins, “I think it´s a mistake to completely lose the history of a house” Cutler says. “The new look that references old… That´s when I think houses are at their best”
Fashion’s underdogs are ready to take over. BY ALEXIS MCDONELL 1973: the year American fashion took center stage.
Five of the top American fashion designers—Oscar de la Renta, Bill Blass, Anne Klein,Halston, and Stephen Burrows—joined forces at the Palace of Versailles to face off against five of the most iconic French couturiers: Yves Saint Laurent, çHubert de Givenchy Pierre Cardin, Emanuel Ungaro, and Marc Bohan of Christian Dior. The star-studded event featured a guest list of top names including Andy Warhol and the Princess of Monaco. The French came with a Cinderella-esque pumpkin coach, rocket ship, and a rhinoceros pulling a caravan, but the Americans countered with their best: 36 models, Broadway dancers, and Liza Minnelli. It was the American fashion revolution. Designs shifted to functional sportswear, and for the first time, international perception of Amereican style progressed. Before the “Revolution” of’73, Parisian maisons de mode set the trends and dressed the most influential women. American brands qute literally copied French designs. When Americás fashion elite were unable to travel to Paris during WWII, the formed their own “PRess Week” in search of inspiration, which later became New York Fashion Week. During the Versailles presentation, American designers challenged their European contemporaries by emphasizing ready-to-wear, sportswear, and fashion.
as entertainment. Their new aesthetic gave women the freedom to express more of their individualistic styles. The names Ralph Lauren, Donna Karan, Calvin Klein, Oscar de la Renta, and Marc Jacobs became synonymous with the haute couture houses of Armani,Balenciaga, and Versace. American designers hope to set themselves apart from the clean, structured style of European fashion. They gear their creations toward a modern, pragmatic, and sportier style heavily connected to contemporary nightlife, society, and celebrity. Ralph Lauren took the style of the English aristocracy and adapted it into the quintessential all-American polished prep. Donna Karan simplified the woman’s wardrobe with the concept of “seven easy pieces”—effortless, wearable garments that could be mixed and matched to transform the look of the everyday woman. Marc Jacobs—perhaps one of the most versatile designers—touched on every end of the fashion spectrum, constructing collections that mix grunge, classics, and couture all in one. Oscar de la Renta created silhouettes distinctly modern, but also romantic and ultrafeminine, reflecting his grounding in both American sportswear and European luxury. Calvin Klein, referred to as “America’s King of Clothes,” dominated the global fashion scene with minimal designs and wearable urban styles. Today`s designers have kept American sportwear flourishing, but have redefined it to fit the ever-changing fashion industry. Sportwear now includes everthing from casual streetwear and now includes everything from casual streetwear anything denim to dressier looks, including tailored trousers and chiffon blouses. Designers are experimenting with silhouettes, androgyny, and color to create simpler, edgier looks that are often rooted in pop culture. They’re less posh and more practical. “Generally, all around the world, the idea of luxury being formal is disappearing. For many
years, luxury meant formality,” says Stuart Vevers, Creative Director of Coach. “Everything from a t-shirt to a sweatshirt to a sneaker—they all come from references from American style. These pieces were created for people to do work in or to do sports in and I think that’s why they have become the way we dress today because they just work for us. They have an ease to them – a function.” Coach has always been considered a quintessential American brand, but with the hiring of a new head designer in 2014, the label decided to reposition its brand in hopes of taking a more fashion-forward direction, something more “cool and un-elitist.” Coach’s head designer told W magazine, the brand’s concept is “American luxury.” The brand now aims for quality products with good craftsmanship to make lasting relationships with customers. Even though Vevers is British, he’s obsessed with everything American, bringing American nostalgia into this year’s looks, but in a fresh way. Think biker jackets, leather backpacks, and bomber jackets. In their fall 2016 collections, other designers returned to past eras for inspiration, when political and social movements were often reflected in dress. “American fashion is generally much younger than European fashion. You’re often looking way back and sometimes it changes the way you create fashionable products,” says Vevers. Alexander Wang brought back grunge streetwear that was reminiscent of the “anti-fashion” movement of the ’80s. Even Wang’s show notes resonated with the past crusade’s message. They explain that his collection “deliberately opposes standard definitions of beauty and taste.” Wang mixed tweed skirt suits with leather shift dresses and jackets; corduroys embroidered with pole dancers with acidsplattered dresses; and marijuana leaf-printed jackets with belt-style chokers. Anna Sui aimed for a decade earlier, with a show that resembled the ’70s runway. With velvet flare pants, babydoll dresses, and technicolor jumpsuits, Sui calls her collection “Pop-sydelic.” Sui takes inspiration from pop artists, like Peter Blake and Richard Lindner. Many designers have played off of their own backgrounds, creating looks that are individual to their own experiences. In her most recent collection, Tory Burch looked to her equestrian background working on her family’s farmhouse in the Eastern coast. Burch showed off jodhpurs and velvet riding boots, horse-printed sweaters and silk dresses, and color blocked riding jackets with convertible harness bags. American fashion has no set definition. It`s highly individualistic-a mishmash of different styles, aesthetics, and influences. So while Europe may boats its luxurious haute couture houses, Americans can brag about being new innovative. Acording to Vevers. “The French have chic, America has cool” And who doesm`t want to be cool? may boast its luxurious haute couture houses, Americans can brag about being new and innovative. According to Vevers, “The French have chic, America has cool.” And who doesn’t want to be cool?
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