The Tomato

Formerly City Palate

The flavour of Edmonton’s food scene | May June 2010 | thetomato.ca

Quinto Fausti of Tenuta De Angelis

Le Marche Italy’s hidden wine region

2010 Frank Award Monique Nutter and Dieter Kuhlmann

Solar Cooking

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TM

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Contents editor

Features

Mary Bailey marybee@shaw.ca

publisher BGP Publishing

copy editor Amanda LeNeve

designer Bossanova Communications Inc.

contributing writers Peter Bailey Caroline Barlott Krysta Forrest Judy Schultz

illustration/photography Curtis Comeau Photography Alex de Hierro

layout and prepress Bossanova Communications Inc.

printer Transcontinental

distribution The Globe and Mail For editorial inquires, information, letters, suggestions or ideas, contact The Tomato at 780-431-1802, fax 780-433-0492, or email marybee@shaw.ca.

For advertising information call 780-908-8522.

the tomato is published six times per year: January/February March/April May/June July/August September/October November/December

by BGP Publishing 9833 84 Avenue Edmonton, AB T6E 2G1 780-431-1802

10 12 16 22

Wine and Beer For Dessert A sweet end

Le Marche Italy’s hidden wine region | Mary Bailey

Cookbook Feature Quinoa 365: the everyday superfood | Patricia Green & Carolyn Hemming

2010 Frank Award Monique Nutter and Dieter Kuhlmann | Mary Bailey

Departments

5 6 8 18 20 23 24 26 30

Dish Gastronomic happenings around town

Wine Maven Mary Bailey

Beer Guy God save the beer | Peter Bailey

Gadgets Cool stuff for the kitchen

Pantry Tasty things for your cupboard

Eating for Two Exercise: how much is too much? | Krysta Forrest

Kitchen Sink What’s new and notable

Feeding People Cooking under the sun | Caroline Barlott

According to Judy How do you cook your armadillo? | Judy Schultz

Cover: photo of winemaker Quinto Fausti, Tenuta De Angelis by Mary Bailey.

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thetomato.ca KeepEdmontonOriginal.com Exercise your power as a consumer thoughtfully.

The Tomato | May June 2010 3

Coming soon Patio top ten

NOW BAKING FRESH BREAD DAILY! A Fresh-Baked Taste of Europe!

The Italian Centre Shop now proudly offers our very own, fresh-baked European breads and rolls.

Baked daily in our southside state-of-the-art bakery, and served from the deli counter at both locations, you can be assured of its freshness and authentic, old world European quality.

Hot Dog Buns, White Bread, Hamburger Buns, Whole Wheat Sliced, Whole Wheat Buns, Medium Rye, Heavy Rye, Marble Swirl loaf, Pumpernickel loaf, Multigrain Sliced, French Bread, Pagnotta, Bavarian Rye, Crusty Buns - Regular, Crusty Buns - Baby, Bread Crumbs Regular, Bread Crumbs seasoned

4 May June 2010 | The Tomato

Okanagan update The modern cocktail U-pick etiquette Patty Nagy memoriam Wine Maven Beer Guy According to Judy

gastronomic happenings around town | road trip The Markerville Creamery Museum and the Spring Market opens Saturday, May 15.

Be there for the 9 am pancake breakfast ($4.00) then, check out the market, take a tour of the museum, and learn how butter was made in 1930. Visit the newly restored church, now available for event and wedding rentals. Markerville, homesteaded by 50 Icelanders in 1888, was a prosperous pioneer community based on butter, cheese and livestock. Now, it’s a lovely hamlet, nestled in a bucolic setting by the Medicine River. Spend the rest of the day wandering about the community.

You’ll be thoroughly charmed. historicmarkerville.com

dish

what’s the buzz on beekeeping?

Forget backyard chickens, how about backyard bee hives? Lola Canola’s Bust into Beekeeping seminar has all the dirt on bee keeping: bee anatomy, bee behaviour, hive architecture, bee keeping equipment, choosing a hive site, getting bees, managing bees, honeybee health, and planting for bees. This is a sweet opportunity to learn more about the urban beekeeping movement (aka bees on your balcony a la Paris and New York) while connecting with the wider beekeeping community. Village Lifestyles, 10429 79 Avenue, May 15-16, 9 am – 5 pm, $225. Preregistration is a must. Contact Lola Canola at pattymilligan@albertacom.com to register.

Having fun at the creamery

eat your beans it’s berry berry good When the folks at AlleyKat Brewing Company think about fruit, it’s usually along the lines of “how can we make beer out of it?” So, when co-owner Neil Herbst was approached by the Canadian FruitfulTree Company with British Columbia-grown blueberry puree, he thought, ‘summer seasonal 2010.’ “I’ve always wanted to brew another fruit beer besides our popular Aprikat apricot ale,” said Neil. Extensive trial batches and exhausting taste tests were conducted throughout the winter. The result? A sassy wheat ale with the unmistakable aroma and flavour of juicy fresh blueberries, with a dry, slightly tart finish. We hope a similar inspiration strikes with raspberries and saskatoons. Pick it up at better beer stores or at the brewery, 9929 60 Avenue.

Drink your fruit

Savouring Pulses Week, May 10 to 16, at several Edmonton area restaurants including Madison’s Grill, Wildflower Grill, The Blue Pear, and Café Haven. More than 4500 Alberta farmers grow pulses—dry peas across the province, beans and chickpeas in southern Alberta, and lentils in eastern Alberta. We all know they’re good for us (high in fibre and protein, nutrient dense, and naturally low in fat and saturated fats)—but check out these descriptions. Food like this?

We’ll eat more beans with pleasure. Madison’s is featuring a roasted garlic and split pea hummus with Navaho-style fry bread and Westphalian ham crisps; a duck confit on a warm lentil salad with double smoked bacon; and a chick pea ragout with lamb meatballs and braised lamb shank. Café Haven is making a daily pulse soup, several variations on the hummus theme, and delicious-sounding pea butter waffles with caramelized bananas for Sunday brunch.

Turkish gold

out damned spot!

Mustafa Cetin is a passionate guy, especially when it comes to olive oil. His family produces an extra virgin olive oil in Turkey from the popular black table olive called the gemlik.

Mustafa’s family makes oil from 550 trees (plus their neighbour’s trees) in the western part of Turkey. “These olive trees and their oils are better quality due to the weather and the higher altitude,” says Mustafa. The oil, called Nefiss Lezizz, is pale yellow with a good aroma, soft gentle flavours with undertones of black olive and sage and a slight bitterness on the finish.

Several west coast, Calgary, and Edmonton chefs are using Nefiss Lezizz in their kitchens. You can buy it at the Bon Ton Bakery. nefisslezizz.com

Those who like to cook, eat, and drink usually end up with a lot of stains. It’s the nature of the life. We’ve tried everything, lemon juice, Oxy clean, baking soda—every spray on the market. None were great.

Calvi Olive Oil Soap, however, takes on every stain we throw at it. A scrap of this soap and a bit of lukewarm water takes out wine, blood, cappuccino, beet juice—all the tough stuff. It’s amazing—best in the market bar none. Go buy some. Smells nice too, clean and mildly soapy. Sapone de Bucati Italian olive oil soap from Olio Calvi at the Italian Centre Shop, $2.29 for a 300 gram bar.

Mustafa Cetin with Nefiss Lezizz oil

The Tomato | May June 2010 5

wine maven

| mary bailey

John Williams of Frog’s Leap Winery with Nathalie Mulder and Tauna Eden (Free House Wines).

John Williams has been growing grapes organically and making wine in Napa for over three decades. So when he talks about how to grow grapes or make wine, it pays to listen. He has much to say about the current fashion of high alcohol wines. ”We like to take the lower alcohol route,“ he says. “It’s not the climate in Napa, it’s a choice. There’s an intimate link between dry farming and alcohol levels. Our wines have traditional levels of alcohol, which creates balance and natural flavours.”

He welcomes the current attention on organic growing. “We used to have only 20 or so people at our organic conference in July, now we have over 200. That’s great.”

BC wine personality David Scholefield has joined Trialto Wine Group with responsibility for Liquid Art Fine Wines portfolio. He had worked as a consultant, wine judge, and speaker since leaving the British Columbia Liquor Distribution Branch in 2004. “I cannot think of a better person to take over Liquid Art,” says founder John Thomasson.

Norma Ratclife (an Edmontonian until she fell in love with a South African on her first trip to Europe) was in town to visit family recently. Stan and Norma bought Cape Farm in 1969 and have built Warwick into a top-notch estate. All the wines are an amazing value. At the top end, Trilogy, a Bordeaux-style blend, is especially good. A favourite for everyday is Three Cape Ladies, an eminently drinkable blend of Cab Sauv, Pinotage, Shiraz, and Merlot—just the thing to have with lamb kebabs. “My daughter Jenny has the best palate of anyone I’ve encountered,” says Norma, high praise coming from someone whose palate is as developed as hers. Son Michael Ratcliffe is now the director of the estate, but Norma is never far from the beloved vines or wine cellar.

Norma Ratcliffe of Warwick Estate at lunch at Culina Mill Creek.

Tom DiBello, who left CedarCreek Estate Winery last month after 10 years as the winemaker, has signed on with Harry McWatters’ Vintage Consulting Group. “Tom brings with him a wealth of knowledge, in both enology and viticulture,” said Harry McWatters. We’re curious to see what Tom diBello—in not just our opinion, one of the top winemakers in North America—gets up to. We’ll keep you posted.

6 May June 2010 | The Tomato

event calendar yaaay! it’s official! tinhorn creek vineyards breaks ground on their winery restaurant, a joint venture with Vancouver’s manuel ferreira. With 65 seats inside and out and breathtaking views of the South Okanagan Valley, the restaurant at tinhorn creek vineyards plans to be open 10 months of the year, enriching the south Okanagan culinary scene.

Key to the project is the conservation partners program, an initiative to protect and enhance the natural habitat that thrive on the property.

Tuesday May 4

Thursday May 13

A Taste of Argentina, Sutton Place Hotel, 780-420-1757.

Fantasmagoria, Campus Saint-Jean, 780-485-8635.

Friday and Saturday May 7 and 8

Wednesday June 2,

don’t miss the eXtravaganZa of malbec that is the taste of Argentina, May 4 at the sutton place hotel. Here’s your chance to taste some incredible wines at fabulous prices.

Rocky Mountain Winefest, rockymountainwine.com/banff

cedar creek has a neW Winemaker. darryl brooker has over 12 years experience in Canada (Hillebrand and Thirty Bench), New Zealand (Villa Maria), and Mountadam Vineyards in Australia.

We’re aWash in good Wine With Wine from neWly discovered regions popping up with regularity. So much so that it’s easy to forget the ones that made you fall in love in the first place. One of my first loves was (and, I bet, many readers feel the same way) the wines of Robert Mondavi.

When mark de vere, director of education for Constellation Wines, came to lunch at Lux and led the group though a tasting, I was reminded of my first love, and how close to perfection these wines can be. This is especially true in the older vintages, in which superb fruit and excellent winemaking have an opportunity to shine. The big surprise? The Fume Blanc—yes, a white wine. Next time you pick up a bottle of mondavi fume blanc reserve, bring home a few extra, stick them in the cellar, and forget about them.

You’ll be well-rewarded five years down the road.

Beer, You Be the Judge, Bin 104, 780-436-8850.

Monday May 10

Tuesday June 8

Slow Food Edmonton Introduction to Mushrooms Culina Highlands, 780-982-4503.

Wine, Food and Conversation Evenings with Satesh Narine, Crestwood Fine Wines & Spirits, 780-488-7800.

Tuesday May 11 Wine, Food and Conversation Evenings with Robert Dziurman Crestwood Fine Wines & Spirits, 780-488-7800.

Monday June 14 Indulgence a Canadian epic of food and wine jledmonton.org, 780-433-9739.

Wednesday May 12

Sunday August 8

The Olive and the Vine Tasting, Bin 104, 780-436-8850.

Wild Boar and Brew, slowfoodedmonton.ca.

Fine Wines by Liquor Select Fine Wines | Exceptional Staff | Private Tasting Room Join us for weekly tastings, private events and corporate functions in our private tasting room — equipped with LCD projector and screen.

8924 149 Street | 780.481.6868 | liquorselect.com | wine@liquorselect.com

• Extensive malt whisky selection • By-the-glass wine, champagne & sparkling • Cheese, paté, charcuterie & gourmet haggis • Available for private functions

Clayton Seeto (Constellation Wines), Mark de Vere, MW (Robert Mondavi), and Jimmy Alcantara (Vincor Canada) outside Lux steakhouse+bar.

5482 Calgary Trail

780.761.1761

The Tomato | May June 2010 7 Bothy_8H.indd 1

10/19/09 9:43:47 AM

beer guy

| peter bailey

God save the beer!

In-Store Tastings | Wine Courses | Food & Wine Pairing • Premium wines and spirits including over 100 single malt scotches and 100 import beers • Unique wine accessories and customized baskets 5454 Calgary Trail South | www.bin104.com | 780.436.8850

Maintenance, repair and restoration of marble and granite countertops.

S T O N E C A R E

481-8795

novellostonecare@telusplanet.net

novellostonecare.com

8 May June 2010 | The Tomato

Perhaps sexy underwear wasn’t Queen Victoria’s secret. Maybe the real secret was that the best English beer was being shipped out of England to India. Only in India you say? Pity.

Following Anchor’s lead, trendsetting brewers in the Pacific Northwest and Northern California made use of pungent American hops such as Cascade and Centennial, creating a new beer style known as American IPA. This ain’t your grandpa’s IPA.

The beer bound for India during Queen Vic’s heyday was India Pale Ale, or IPA. English brewers were eager to help thirsty British troops stationed in the heat and dust of India, but found that regular beer spoiled during the threemonth voyage to India. Ingenious Victorians like brewer Geoffrey Hodgson soon figured out that if they torqued up the natural preservatives in beer—hops and alcohol—it would survive the journey.

From its rebirth in the Pacific Northwest, new-style India Pale Ale has spread all over North America. New World IPA ranges from bold American IPA like Calgary’s Wild Rose IPA to milder English IPA like Saskatoon’s Paddock Wood 606 IPA, with many Canadian IPAs somewhere in between. At Phillips Brewing in Victoria, the focus is on “hop happy” beers like their mindblowing Amnesiac Double IPA.

India Pale Ale, then, is amped up pale ale—bigger (and better!), with more hops and more alcohol.

Beer historians think that the three-month sea voyage may have improved the ale, becoming more complex and tasty by the time the ship docked in Calcutta or Bombay.

As the sun set on the British Empire, IPA faded from prominence, pushed into obsolescence by the rise of the 20th century lager empire. Today, lager rules the waves, even in India where local favourite Kingfisher Lager is the top selling beer. In Canada, we have the interesting case of Alexander Keith’s IPA, which may, indeed, have been an India Pale Ale at one time, but today is not an IPA, having moved with the market to the lager style.

But IPAs have risen anew as the New World craft beer revolution has transformed the IPA model into new big, bold beers with a massive love of the hop.

Craft brewing pioneer Anchor Brewing of San Francisco began experimenting with a hoppy seasonal IPA in 1975, which became their iconic Liberty Ale.

Victoria Day was called May TwoFour in my youth—back when you didn’t need a second mortgage to buy a case of 24 beer. Big fans of the monarchy, we would spend the weekend toasting the memory of Victoria until our two-fours of Blue or Canadian were gone. As Monty Python noted, Victoria Day is the day “we try to remember the names of all those who so gallantly gave their lives to keep China British.”

Today, Victoria Day is the ideal opportunity to crack a bottle of IPA—the perfect beer for Edmonton’s spring. Stouts and hearty ales sustained us through the cold of winter; it isn’t warm enough for the lawnmower lagers of summer, but the sharp whip of a hoppy IPA will wake those hibernating taste buds from winter’s slumber. The citrusy-floral aroma and green-piney taste from the hops speak loudly of summer to come. Get ready palate, summer is on its way.

So this Victoria Day, take a sip of IPA, lie back, and think of England.

Peter Bailey blogs at petepicks.blogspot.com.

May Two-Four Six Pack The delicious IPAs below are available at better beer stores in Edmonton and area.

Nelson Brewing Paddywhack IPA (English IPA) BC’s Nelson Brewing charts its own way with its excellent all-organic traditional ales, including their English-style IPA. Paddywhack pours darker than other IPAs—more brown than copper. It has the characteristic citrus Cascade hop nose, but the taste is biscuity, clearly focused on the malt.

A mellow, easy-drinking IPA.

Half Pints Little Scrapper IPA (American IPA) Scrappy little Winnipeg brewer Half Pints punches above their size with big beers like their aggressive, American-style IPA. Little Scrapper is an ironic name as this is a big beer with broad shoulders. Dry-hopped with pungent Cascade hops, Little Scrapper has a strong floral nose and an intense grapefruit taste that goes on and on.

Unique custom baskets and trays

Yukon Brewery Ice Fog IPA (English IPA) It is hard to imagine a place more unlike the heat and noise of India than the Canadian Arctic. Yet, the folks up at Whitehorse’s Yukon Brewery make a fine English-style IPA that would work well with a plate of curry in Mumbai.

This is an approachable, balanced IPA—a perfect introduction to the hoppy goodness of this style.

Dogfish Head 60 Minute IPA (American IPA) In Delaware, on the Atlantic coast, far from IPA’s homeland on the Pacific, sits a quirky brewery that makes “off-centered ales for off-centered people.” One of their innovations is to continually add hops as their IPA boils, making it very hoppy but avoiding too much bitterness. It’s a legendary IPA from a brewing iconoclast.

Dieu du Ciel Corne du diable IPA (American IPA)

Matahari

A PA N - A S I A N D I N I N G E X P E R I E N C E

Dining, Takeout, Catering & Special Events 10108B – 124 Street • 452-8262

Ample free parking at rear with rear entrance available.

Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday to Sunday, hours vary.

Montreal’s Dieu du Ciel (oh my god) is Canada’s Dogfish Head, a quirky brewery that pushes the envelope. While DDC brews from the malt-centric Belgian tradition, their feisty IPA shows they aren’t afraid to throw down the hops. Corne du Diable (horn of the devil) is a hop bomb,with a strong grapefruit nose and a spicy, resiny taste.

Propeller IPA (English IPA) Halifax’s wonderful craft brewery on grungy Gottingen Street does a mid-Atlantic take on English beer styles, tweaked with a gentle New World approach. Propeller shows Halifax neighbour Alexander Keith what a real English-style IPA is all about—big bitter hops balanced with a touch of sweet malt.

introduces Premiers Crus de Plantation Bernard’s latest creation crafted from organic, fair-trade cocoa beans with distinct flavours from four points across the globe.

11004 51 avenue, 780-436-0908 | manulife Place, 780-423-3083 | 12325 102 avenue, 780-488-0690

The Tomato | May June 2010 9

Wine eer B dessert Mary Bailey

and

for

Some people are completely at home cooking with wine or beer, throwing it around with abandon—a bit in the soup, a splash in the sauce, a glug of beer in the stew. “Don’t bother to measure,“ they say. “Just add whatever you’ve got.”

To others those dribs and drabs cluttering up the refrigerator door are just trouble. “Add to what?” they say.“And how much?”

Here’s where the two can meet and measure (or not) with a collection of desserts; cupcakes, an ice cream, and a couple of sauces, fit for both kinds of cooks.

10 May June 2010 | The Tomato

alley kat brewberry blueberry ale chocolate cupcakes We used Alley Kat’s summer feature beer, Brewberry Blueberry Ale, to make deliciously pretty cupcakes.

1¼ c sugar ¼ c

cocoa powder

¾ c

flour

¾ t

baking powder

¾ t

baking soda

½ t

salt

2

eggs

½ c

water or buttermilk

½ c

Alley Kat Brewberry Blueberry Ale

½ c

butter, cold in pieces

½ c

frozen blueberries

Line a 12 muffin tin with muffin liners. Preheat oven to 325°F. Sift together sugar, flour, baking powder, baking soda, cocoa powder, and salt. Mix the eggs with the water and beer and reserve. Place butter in the bowl of a standing mixer and slowly add flour mixture. When just combined, add the egg mixture and mix until smooth with no visible lumps. Add blueberries. Mix until combined.

Pour batter ¾ of the way up the muffin tin sides. Bake for about 12-15 minutes or until golden brown, and a toothpick inserted in the centre comes out clean. Cool before frosting.

Makes 12 cupcakes.

brewberry buttercream frosting 3 c

icing sugar

1 c

butter, softened

1 T

whipping cream

2 T Alley Kat Brewberry Blueberry Ale 1 t

vanilla extract

In a standing mixer whisk together sugar and butter. Mix on low speed until well blended.

Increase speed to medium and beat for another 3 minutes. Add whipping cream, beer, vanilla extract, and continue to beat on medium speed for 1 minute more, adding more cream if needed (the frosting should be a pale pink/tawny colour. If not, adjust with blueberry juice, beet juice or red food colouring).

cumberland sauce The classic English sauce for ham at Christmas is also tasty with cheeses or on ice cream. The basic flavours are citrus and port; some versions call for Dijon—delish if you’re serving with meats. Serve chilled.

2t

red currant jelly

1 small piece fresh ginger juice and zest of 1 orange juice and zest of 1 lemon ¾c

ruby or tawny port

In a small saucepan, melt the jelly with the zest and ginger then add the citrus juices. Stir to combine and add port. Bring to a boil then reduce by half. Simmer until thickened enough to coat a spoon. Remove ginger before serving (remove earlier or leave out entirely if you are not a ginger fan).

Sauce should be somewhat runny, not thick.

cherry port ice cream 3c 2/3

heavy cream (35 per cent) c

1t

sugar pure vanilla extract seeds scraped from 1 vanilla bean

tinhorn creek kerner late harvest granité ½c

sugar

1c

water

1c

Tinhorn Kerner Late Harvest

In a small mixing bowl, dissolve the sugar in the water. Add the wine and mix well. Place in the freezer and stir with a fork every 20 minutes for approximately 2 hours. The texture of the finished product should look like coarse snow.

green envy sabayon dessert sauce Sabayon (zabaglione) is a versatile sauce, classically made with marsala or champagne. It does keep for a few days in the refrigerator, but is best served warm immediately after making.

The grassy citrusy hit of this alfalfa wine from En Santé Fruit Winery and Organic Orchard makes a unique and intriguing partner to the honey egg mixture. Have with pound cake, over ice cream or frozen yogurt, or with pate and cheeses. The salt and pepper seasoning gives the sauce a tangy modern vibe (think salted caramels), leave out if you like.

½c

late bottled vintage port

6 large egg yolks

1c

sour cherries, drained

2T

honey

grated dark chocolate (for garnish)

1 sprig

thyme

½t

vanilla extract

½c

En Santé Green Envy Fruit wine

scant

sea salt and fresh-cracked black pepper

Heat the cream, sugar, vanilla, vanilla seeds, and port in a small saucepan until the sugar is completely dissolved.

Strain into a bowl, cover, and chill for at least 4 hours. Pour the port mixture into the bowl of an ice cream maker and follow manufacturer’s directions.

When the ice cream starts to firm up (about 20 minutes), add the cherries.

Spoon into a freezer container and allow to chill in the freezer for a few hours to cure.

DRESSED UP & READY TO GO!

For dinner out, a family gathering, home parties or kicking back at the cabin, Tinhorn Creek has the wines for the occasion. We are proud to show you our 100% estate-grown Varietal Series and Oldfield Series wines. Our vineyards are located on two unique and diverse south Okanagan sites: the Golden Mile and the Black Sage bench. Our ability to blend the grapes from these vineyards and capture the best characteristics of each site sets us apart.

Visit our spectacular estate winery in Oliver, BC and experience for yourself.

NATURALLY SOUTH OKANAGAN www.tinhorn.com

Combine all ingredients in a stainlesssteel bowl. Set the bowl over a pot of simmering water and whisk until the mixture begins to thicken (about 2 minutes). Take out thyme sprig.

Remove from heat and serve.

To serve: Take out of freezer about 10 minutes before serving. Place chocolate curls or grated chocolate on top. Serves 6-8.

The Tomato | May June 2010 11

Le Marche

Italy’s hidden wine region

Mary Bailey visits two family-owned vineyards in eastern Italy.

12 May June 2010 | The Tomato

The road winds around hills that come in waves, folding

in and around each other like origami.

As we drive east we occasionally catch glimpses of hill-top towns, blue ocean and, of course, hillsides covered in hills and vines. We are in Le Marche, in central Italy, between Umbria and the Adriatic Facing page: Verdicchio vines march down the hills at Marotti-Campi. Top: The Church of Santa Maria della Rocca near Offida. Below: Angelo, winery dog at Tenuta de Angelis, snoozes in the heat.

The Tomato | May June 2010 13

Clockwise from top: Quinto Fausti with ripening Montepulciano grapes; Susan Giacomin (L) of WineQuest Imports with Francesca Marotti-Campi; Lorenzo Marotti-Campi checks the Verdicchio vines; Giuseppe Marotti-Campi in the tasting room; Lorenzo prepares for a tasting of Lacrima di Morro d’Alba.

Le Marche is a bit of a conundrum, known for textiles, leather, pork and an industrious people, bordered by the sybaritic allure of the Adriatic.

The white rock and black and white pebbled beaches are dotted by legions of sun seekers and striped umbrellas.

The wines, once a secret known only to the marchigiani who drank them casually with the evening meal, are growing in quality and popularity.

They remain a bargain, by world standards, great quality for the price.

The end of August is a busy time.

The whites are picked early in the morning and the juice is in the tank by early afternoon. Then it’s a process of watching temperatures.

Remember when Italian whites were heavy, oxidized and not very attractive? Controlling temperature when making white wines is one of the happier aspects of modern winemaking, keeping aromas bright and flavours fresh.

Two estates reveal what’s happening in the new Marche, a respectful mix of tradition and modernity, and an eye for value.

tenuta de angelis (Offida, near Ascoli Piceno) Produces Rosso Piceno DOC from Sangiovese and Montepulciano, Falerio DOC from Trebbiano, Prato Grande Chardonnay, Anghelos IGT from Cabernet Sauvignon and Montepulciano, and Offida DOC Pecorino and Passerina.

Continued on page 28 14 May June 2010 | The Tomato

Where To Eat Near Ascoli Piceno – Grottammare – Il Grecale 47 Via Colombo Impeccable seafood in a casual atmosphere on the beachside promenade in Grottammare.

– Offida – La Botte Via Borgo Miriam hotel_labottelibero.it Cucina tipica di Marchigiano – seasonal, regional specialties.

Near Ancona – Serra dè Conti – Coquus Fornacis Osteria Via Fornace 7 60030 Serra dè Conti Contemporary regional cuisine next to a restored brick factory turned B&B in a pretty medieval hamlet.

– Senigallia – Uliassi uliassi.it Chef/owner Mauro Uliassi 2 Michelin Stars Mauro Uliassi runs the kitchen while his sister Catia takes care of the front of house – and wears great shoes. Elegant, beach-side, confident, contemporary.

LEARN TO COOK wITH AwARD wINNINg CHEFS FOR PEOPLE WHO LOVE COOKING AND PREPARING GOOD FOOD NAIT’S Hokanson Center for Culinary Arts inspires and teaches the endless possibilities for creativity in the kitchen.

NAIT’s Culinary Arts courses feature internationally recognized hospitality programs taught by award-winning instructors in state-of-the-art-kitchens.

(HOS316) TOUR OF INDIA: Basics, Essentials & Regional Cuisine. Part of the International Culinary Tour series.

(HOS308) MEALS FROM START TO FINISH: All About Beef. Part of the Meals from Start to Finish series

Journey through ancient Indian culinary traditions through hands-on practice.Learn about ingredients, Indian pantry essentials, techniques, and practices.

From soup to salad, to dessert and wine, you will learn how to plan and prepare a complete four-course dinner with beef as the main attraction.

Italian style sushi, plus new wave canned tuna, and other things by Moreno Cedroni, considered one of Italy’s most innovative chefs.

Hours: 12 Feb 22 to 26, 2010 | Mon, Wed & Fri, 6:00 pm - 10:00 pm Fee: $285 + GST

Hours: 4 Mar 20, 2010 | Sat, Tue & Thu, 6:00 pm - 10:00 pm Fee: $125 + GST

When You Go

(BAK31) CAKES, PASTRIES & PLATED DESERTS. Part of the Baking and Pastry Making series.

(HOS405) Cooking for weight and Blood Sugar Balancing. Part of the Cooking for Health and Vitality series.

Learn to bake a wide array of both classic and trendy desserts and how to present them through different forms of plate presentation using garnishes and sauces.

Make food choices to help you lose weight and balance your blood sugar naturally. Gain basic knowledge and hands-on cooking techniques.

Hours: 12 Mar 9 to 16, 2010 | Tue & Thur 6:00 pm – 10:00 pm Fee: $240 + GST

Hours: 12 Mar 23 to Apr 6, 2010 | Tue 6:00 pm – 10:00 pm Fee: $285 + GST

– Baia di Portonovo – Clandestino Susci Bar morenocedroni.it/clandestino Chef/owner Moreno Cedroni

Don’t miss Urbino, Ascoli Piceno, Offida, especially the church Santa Maria della Rocca and the beach towns Senigallia, and Grottammare. The Riveria Conero south of Ancona is spectacular.

Winery Details Tenuta De Angelis Via San Francisco 10 Castel di Lama 63030 Ascoli Piceno tenutadeangelis.no-ip.com Marotti Campi Loc. S. Amico 14 60030 Morro d'Alba marotticampi.it

Phone 780.471.6248 or visit www.nait.ca/ConEd

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The Tomato | May June 2010 15

C O O K B O O K F E AT U R E

Sisters Carolyn Hemming and Patricia Green have written a useful cookbook about quinoa (keen-wha) filled with delectable and healthy recipes for every meal and any occasion—even baby food. Their backgrounds in exercise and nutrition provided what they needed to create recipes that are both wholesome and great-tasting. They not only tell us why quinoa is identified as a superfood, they show us how to buy, We’ve chosen three gluten-free recipes store, and prepare it. from their new book to showcase the versatility of this tasty and nutritious grain. isbn 978-1-55285-994-0 $29.95 CDN paperback with flaps 8 x 10, 208 pages. Published by Whitecap Books.

16 May June 2010 | The Tomato

Ensuring your hands are dry, cut a piece of nori in half with scissors. Place 1 piece of nori on a cutting surface or counter with the rough side facing up.

Place 2 Tbsp (30 mL) of the quinoa on the left half of the nori and spread slightly, leaving a 1/2-inch (1 cm) border around the sides.

Sprinkle the quinoa with a small amount of sesame seeds. Add a strip of carrot, avocado and pickled ginger. Set a piece of crabmeat (or egg or tofu) on top.

easy quinoa temaki Temaki, or “handroll,” is handheld sushi in the shape of a cone. It is the easiest sushi to make and dramatically decorates any party platter. Since it is best made immediately before serving, make them just before a party, or let guests roll their own and choose their own fillings. Serve with wasabi, ginger and tamari or soy sauce on the side. This is our favorite combination of flavors, but feel free to try your own ideas. To make this recipe gluten-free, use tamari instead of soy sauce and real crabmeat instead of imitation.

Take the bottom left corner of the nori and bring it up to the center top. Keep rolling it around until the nori forms a cone. Using your finger dipped in water, moisten the inner edge of the nori and press gently together to seal. Sprinkle the top of each temaki with a few sesame seeds. As you are putting the temaki on a plate or platter, place a weight (such as the edge of a saucer) on the side of the nori to hold down the edges until set. Repeat with the remaining ingredients.

Serve temaki at room temperature for up to 3 hours.

Serve tamari or soy sauce and wasabi on the side.

Maple syrup

½ cup

(125 mL) toasted pecans

Whipped cream (optional)

Measure the flour, sugar, baking powder, soda, allspice, cinnamon, ginger and salt into a large bowl.

Mix well.

Whisk together the milk, pumpkin, eggs and oil in a medium bowl. Add to the flour mixture and stir until just blended.

Spray with cooking oil or grease a large nonstick frying pan and place on medium heat. When hot, pour 1/4-cup (60 mL) portions of batter into the pan. Pancakes will be ready to flip when you begin to observe bubbles and the underside is brown. Flip and cook the pancake for another 20 to 25 seconds until the center springs back when pressed. If the pancakes buckle when sliding the spatula under the pancake, lightly oil the pan again for the next pancakes. Serve with maple syrup, pecans and whipped cream (if using).

Makes 20 rolls.

2 cups (500 mL) water 1 cup (250 mL) white or golden quinoa 6 Tbsp (90 mL) white rice vinegar 1½ tsp (7.5 mL) liquid honey ¼ tsp (1 mL) salt One

10-sheet package (1 oz/28 g) dried sushi nori

2 Tbsp (30 mL) black or white toasted sesame seeds 1

avocado sliced into 20 strips

Pumpkin Pancakes

¼ cup (60 mL) julienne or shredded carrot 1 Tbsp (15 mL) sliced pickled ginger, cut into thin strips 1 cup (250 mL) real or imitation crabmeat (or 2 eggs whisked, fried and cut into strips, or strips of extrafirm tofu)

Sweet pumpkin and delicate autumn spices make this recipe enjoyable any day of the year or a special treat for any occasion.

Makes about 17 pancakes.

Pomegranate, Almond and Feta Salad

¼ cup

(60 mL) packed brown sugar

Bring the water and quinoa to a boil in a medium saucepan. Reduce to a simmer, cover and cook for 10 minutes. Turn the heat off and leave the covered saucepan on the burner for an additional 10 minutes to allow residual heat to continue cooking the quinoa to an extra plump texture. Fluff with a fork and set aside.

2 tsp

(10 mL) baking powder

1 tsp

(5 mL) baking soda

Great for entertaining, this eye-catching salad has an intense flavor combination of feta, toasted almonds and pomegranate. The addition of spinach and quinoa makes for a super wholesome dish. This looks fantastic when made with black quinoa, but use red or white if you prefer.

1 tsp

(5 mL) ground allspice

Serves 4 as a small meal or 6 as a side salad.

1 tsp

(5 mL) ground cinnamon

½ tsp

(2 mL) ground ginger

Meanwhile, heat the vinegar, honey and salt in a small saucepan or microwave until the mixture is warm and the honey and salt are dissolved. Stir the vinegar mixture into the warm quinoa until evenly distributed. Allow the quinoa to cool to room temperature in the uncovered pot.

½ tsp

(2 mL) salt

Tamari (gluten-free) or soy sauce Wasabi (if using)

1½ cups (375 mL) quinoa flour

1¾ cups (435 mL) buttermilk or sour milk 1 cup

(250 mL) pumpkin purée

2

large eggs

2

Tbsp (30 mL) vegetable oil

½ cup (125 mL) water ¼ cup (60 mL) black quinoa ½ cup (125 mL) sliced almonds 4 cups (1 L) baby spinach leaves ¾ cup (185 mL) crumbled light feta ¼ cup (60 mL) sliced red onion Continued on page 25

The Tomato | May June 2010 17

Shop where the chefs shop.

278 Cree Road in Sherwood Park • 780.449-.3710 Open Monday to Thursday 10-5 • Friday to Saturday 9-6

Fabulous Asian Dining Experience

gadgets

|

Cool stuff for the kitchen Steam moderne What makes the design of the OXO Uplift teakettle iconic? The spout that opens automatically when the kettle is lifted; the distinctive whistle signal; and the oversize opening for convenient filling and cleaning. And, it’s made of polished high-grade stainless steel with a durable zinc finish that resists rust. The limited edition Tenth Anniversary model has an attractive cork-handle—non-slip, natural cork, wonderfully heat resistant. OXO Uplift Tea Kettle, $129.95.

Dear Merchant: The price for the OXO Uplift Anniversary Kettle was stated incorrectly in our May/June 2010 issue.

The correct price is $129.95. We sincerely apologize for any confusion this may have caused.

— The Tomato food & drink

Thai, Japanese and Chinese specialities Over 200 menu items to choose from Visit our new sushi bar

10406 Mayfield Road • 780-489-7826

Specializing in “Kickin Ash Buffalo” locally raised bison dishes.

Lunch and Dinner The warmest place in town.

Hide the tea towel Try these nifty drying mats (in two shapes, square, and rectangle) made of food-safe silicone and suitable for wine glasses, vases, or pots and pans. The unique ribbed design minimizes drying time and keeps things sanitary. Oxo Silicone Drying Mats, $17.99 and $22.99.

Available at Bosch Kitchen Centre, The Butler Did It, Call the Kettle Black, Dansk Gifts, and other good kitchen retailers. Not all items can be found in all stores.

18 May June 2010 | The Tomato

The Business Lunch at hardware grill. learn to love cooking Just for kids? No way! Being in the kitchen is too much fun with the Head Chefs’ family of kitchen tools: spatula, measuring cups and spoons, whisk, sifter, icing spreader, spatula, spoons, and turner. Attributes such as Gumby-like bendable arms and legs, suction cup feet, and soft silicone construction in candy colours (fuschia, cobalt blue, lavender, lime green, marigold, turquoise, grass green) make them wildly attractive and safe to use for little fingers. Who wouldn’t want to help out in the kitchen when you can use these? head chefs cool tools for kids, $10 to $12.

Use your head, treat your clients.

Monday to Friday 11:30 – 2:00 pm Dinner, Monday to Saturday from 5:00 pm.

pie crust made easy Novice and experienced bakers alike will enjoy using a silicone rolling pin; non-stick, no-crack, unbreakable. The Fiesta silicone rolling pins come in several colours, sizes, and three styles—with rubber handles in olive green, navy blue, red; with metal alloy handles in black; a bakers rolling pin in black; and a French rolling pin in black. fiesta silicone rolling pins, $29.99 to $59.99.

Downtown in the historic Goodridge Block Corner of 97th and Jasper Reservations suggested 780.423.0969 | hardwaregrill.com

it’s party time This elegantly useful server is ideal for sangria, punch, or lemonade on a hot day and margaritas indoors or out. The drip-proof spigot soldiers on through legions of thirsty guests and the large opening makes it easy to add citrus slices, strawberries, or ice. All you need for the garden party is a big hat. Holds approximately 40-50 glasses of iced tea. The small print: it’s only for cold drinks and hand washing is recommended. Artland Glass Pedestal Beverage Server, $79.99.

The Tomato | May June 2010 19

pantry

|

Tasty things for your cupboard Good things from other people’s kitchen are handy to have around—a jar of tapenade and some good crackers for a quick appetizer or a fine dressing that can take chicken thighs from ho-hum to company in an instant. It certainly doesn’t hurt when the package is so pretty; these little gems become perfect hostess gifts. Here’s a selection of well-made pantry items that look too good to hide away in the pantry—and they taste great, too.

aMust Whole Grain Mustards, Dressings, and Mayonnaise Creamy textured and full of flavour—a little goes a long way with these well-crafted items from Holland. The Honey Thyme and Ginger Wasabi dressings bring that extra bounce to slaws, vegetables, or chicken…let alone a salad.

Belazu Tapenades, Spreads and Jarred Olives You’ll love the sultry heat of the smoked chili jelly, ideal with charcuterie, brushed on pork chops, fish or as a rub for steaks. Try the Rose Harissa, a blend of 40 Mediterranean spices, their heat tempered by crushed rose petals. Have with lamb tagine.

Belazu Pickled Lemons Preserved lemons are a staple in the North African kitchen. Why make your own when you can use the excellent Belazu pickled lemons instead. For anything that needs a lemony kick, whether it be Moroccan couscous, Szechuan stir fry, or grilled salmon.

Newby Chocolate Tea Make a cup of this unique tea: Ceylon black blended with white chocolate. Amber-coloured with mocha aromas and flavours and a subtle hit of caramel. Creamy and delicious—just the thing when you need a hit of chocolate or tea.

Amedei Tuscany Brother and sister Alessio and Cecilia Tessieri have exacting standards, evident in their impeccable chocolate made from selected cocoa beans, nuts, fruits, natural flavours, and sugar cane (no soya lecithin). The Toscana Red Tavolette bar—dark chocolate with a fresh berry tang of dried cherries, strawberries, and raspberries—is chocolate to savour with a good bottle of Tuscan red.

Available at Bon Ton Bakery, Bosch Kitchen Centre, The Butler Did It, Cally’s Teas, Call the Kettle Black, Dansk Gifts, Kerstin’s Chocolates, Notables, Planet Organic, and other fine retailers. Not all items can be found in all stores.

20 May June 2010 | The Tomato

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Doing your own thing.

That’s the Clancy’s way.

October 23, 26, 28, 2010

the Abduction from the Seraglio February 5, 8, 10, 2011

tosca

Clancy of the Overflow is the legendary Aussie literary character, a free-spirited, wandering drover who led a life of adventure. Peter Lehmann has a lot of Clancy in him. He’s always done things his own way. His Clancy’s range is a nod to doing your own thing. Overflowing with flavour, these easy drinking wines are created especially for those with a bit of Clancy in them.

April 9, 12, 14, 2011

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The Tomato | May June 2010 21

The Tomato’s Annual Award for Exemplary Contribution to Edmonton's Culinary Life The Tomato’s Frank Award honours the person, place, or thing that has most contributed to culinary life in Edmonton in the past year: farmer, rancher, chef, restaurateur, market/grocer, scientist, food, or dish. The award is named for Frank Spinelli, who built a legacy in the grocery business, now carried on by his daughter Teresa. We applaud his vision, tenacity, perseverance, and sense of community and look for these qualities in Frank Award nominees.

The 2009 Frank Award is shared

by Monique Nutter of the Greater Edmonton Foundation (GEA) and Dieter Kuhlmann, founder of Kuhlmann’s Market Gardens, for bringing the issue of urban farmland into the fore and onto Edmonton’s Municipal Development Plan.

the common good) through the Ebenezer United Church,“ says Monique. “I started learning about the cost of food, climate change, energy costs, and the pressure on families because of these things.

After having kids, I was asking myself, what are we leaving behind?

The specific land in question, a bit of North Saskatchewan alluvial soil, is rare and unusual, class one agricultural land ideally suited to intensive vegetable farming.

The area occupies a unique microclimate—both the soils and air are warmer, allowing farmers to have crops in the market by June.

The availability of irrigation and proximity to market are second to none.

“I helped organize a local food dinner, and met (local farmer) Jim Visser. That’s when I found out that good farmland was in danger.

“The MDP had one little paragraph that touched on food security, that talked about community gardens.

We knew it would take more than that.

“Essentially, now the MDP states farmland has value as farmland and that must be taken into consideration for any development decision.”

But up until the change in the MDP, this land’s value as productive farmland did not come into the picture.

Dieter Kuhlmann and his family had built a viable market garden business on some of this prime agricultural land. The ability of others to do so had been compromised by its lack of status.

“Where we are, there’s already a lot of encroachment, government, hospitals, small acreages, the Henday,” says Dieter. “But further north on the open tableland, the prime farming area east of the Manning freeway, was considered empty and non-productive in an economic sense. This change makes a huge difference.

“It’s quite a coup to have the city incorporate agricuture into a long term strategy,”says Dieter. “To have the GEA on board meant that ordinary citizens got involved.

22 May June 2010 | The Tomato

Dieter Kuhlmann (foreground) Monique Nutter and son (background).

Photo: Curtis Comeau Photography/Alex del Hierro.

But many things still need to be defined.”

How will this happen?

“Negotiation,” says Dieter. “Land trades, the ability of developers to offer land in exchange for higher density in a city housing project for example.”

“I’m a homemaker trained as a social worker,” says Monique

Nutter. “It wasn’t until I realized that many people, even members of my family, ate so differently (more processed convenience foods) from when I grew up, that I really started to think about food.”

What did it mean?

“I got involved as a volunteer with the GEA (an umbrella group whose mission is to organize people for

What’s next?

“There’s still work to be done.” says Monique. “The city has hired a planning firm with experience (HB Lanark, Vancouver worked with the City of Tsawwassen to build agriculture into their plan.) We still need a city-wide food-agriculture strategy.

“When we first came here (as pioneers) people couldn’t wait to get off the farm,” says Dieter.

“Now everybody wants to garden and be close to the land again.

It’s come full circle. But, we need to recognize that growing things is a right, that it’s useful to all.

You can’t have some homeowners saying one farm that has been there for years, now makes too much mud and noise. That’s not right. It’s good to have farms,” says Dieter.

eating for two

| krysta forrest, bpe, cpt

Exercise: how much is too much?

Three pregnancy tests, and they are all positive. I succumb to doubt and take one more test.

Welcome first trimester paranoia, when rational thought goes out the window. What do I do now? I am becoming consumed about making the right choices for the baby.

In thinking about pregnancy and fitness who do you turn to for the best advice? Millions of thoughts rush through your mind as you try to decipher the information out there. You must be confident you are making the best choices for you and baby. Since you can’t protect yourself by living in a bubble for the next nine months, it’s time to let go of some fears.

I began my research on prenatal fitness in articles and texts. I was discouraged by my findings. Easy does it they all said (one website warned about lifting more than five pounds overhead. What if you already had kids, car seats and all the stuff that goes with?). Was I hurting my baby by performing vigorous exercise? Panic set in.

Moments later I calmed down and thought about the pregnant women all over the world who have physical tasks to complete—not everyone is so delicate.

Who better to speak with than active mothers themselves. I asked the runners, cyclists, weightlifters, and hot yoga enthusiasts I know.

Could I still go for a bike ride?

Could I continue with hot yoga?

Their answers: participate in any activity you’re used to doing at an intensity you’re comfortable with. With this advice—along with advice from my OBGYN who stressed maintenance rather than pursuing a higher level of fitness—I was able to decide on the appropriate exercise. Because I was having a healthy pregnancy with no complications, I decided to keep running, cycling, resistance training, and attending hot yoga classes.

Methods of exercise: got it! Now, what about intensity and frequency?

The fatigue and nausea that set in during the first trimester limited how much I could push myself. I discovered that, really, my body monitored itself. It defined the fine line between the ability to keep up and going too far.

Know your body and listen to it—work within your means. Set a pace that you’re able to maintain, perform the exercise safely, and use proper technique. Wear the correct shoes, be properly dressed to prevent overheating and drink lots of water.

I was able to maintain daily exercise… most days. Assess how you feel each day and plan your workouts accordingly. As life begins to change, it’s still important to maintain healthy lifestyle habits. Even when I did not feel powerful, I felt better after a 30-minute walk. “I’m keeping up the routine,” I would think to myself. Admittedly, there were days that were best spent on the couch. Rest is a priority—some days, exercise is unrealistic and it’s ok to enjoy the break and plan for activity the next day.

During exercise, nausea can be avoided and your energy levels will return if you follow your body’s guidance. You’ll benefit from exercise as you always have.

During pregnancy, the improved circulation, maintenance of muscle tone, and stress release is the bonus that makes up for your clothes not fitting anymore.

Krysta Forrest is a well-trained fitness professional currently on maternity leave.

low-cal banana bread Feeling whiffy? Settle your stomach with the healthy comfort food you know and love. A morning bowl of oatmeal, ginger ale or even banana loaf can settle your tummy while filling you with the some of the best nutrients. Here is my favourite low-cal banana bread recipe 2

large eggs

¾ c

sugar

1 c smashed ripe bananas (about 3 medium bananas) 1/3

c

buttermilk

500 bottles of beer

on the wall.

REALLY. We stock 500 brands of beer

seven days a week.

SHERBROOKE

LIQUOR STORE

1 T

vegetable oil

11819 St. Albert Trail

1 T

vanilla extract

(east side of traffic circle)

1¾ c

all purpose flour

2 t

baking powder

½ t

baking soda

½ t

salt

½ c

chopped walnuts (optional)

Preheat oven to 325°F. Lightly grease loaf pan and dust with flour. Using electric mixer, beat eggs and sugar in large bowl until thick and light (about 5 minutes). Mix in smashed bananas, buttermilk, oil, and vanilla. Sift flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt over mixture. Beat until just blended.

Add nuts if using.

Transfer batter to prepared pan. Bake bread until golden brown on top and tester inserted into center comes out clean (about 1 hour). Turn bread out onto rack and cool.

455-4556

ww

MoN

10235 - 124 Street N.W. Edmonton, AB

780.488.7656 www.dahliasbistro.com MoNdAy to FridAy 11AM - 8PM SAturdAy 11AM - 5PM

10235 - 124 Street N.W. Edmonton, AB

780.488.7656 www.dahliasbistro.com MONDAY to FRIDAY 11AM - 8PM SATURDAY 11AM - 5PM

The Tomato | May June 2010 23

kitchen sink

| what’s new and notable

restaurant buzz Madison’s (10053 Jasper Avenue, 780-401-2222) spring menu does not disappoint. Dishes include Irving‘s Berkshire bacon-wrapped pork tenderloin with saskatoon berry and Sylvan Star gouda-stuffed pear; Alberta rack of lamb with braised lamb shoulder shepherd‘s pie (yes, together, on the same plate—heaven for lamb lovers); and a refreshing Gull Valley tomato salad with basil pestomarinated cheese curds.

Moriarty’s (10154 100 Street, 780-757-2004) 70 seat outdoor patio will be opening early May. Open daily, weather permitting.

The Blue Pear is now open every night with live jazz on Sundays. On BYOWW (Bring Your Own Wine Wednesdays), corkage is waived and their handy threecourse early dinner menu is available until 6 pm Monday to Saturday and until close on Sundays. Reservations, jazz line up, and menu details at thebluepear.com or call 780-482-7178.

Both Spinelli’s Bar Italia (Italian Centre Shop north and south) have expanded their culinary offerings to a grilled panini and soup lunch. The Caffe Affogato is back as well: one scoop of premium gelato, one shot of espresso topped with whipped cream and chocolate sauce. Indulge.

The opening of L2 in the Fantasyland Hotel has been followed by the lounge/casual dining space L1. The chic colour scheme of black and metallics with luxe Hermes orange accents creates a sophisticated, contemporary feel. Chef Shane Chartrand’s fave dish is the seafood bucket for two— ideal with a chilled glass of pinot gris.

atmosphere, especially in the red-painted vault (the strip mall location is a former bank), and the delish Transcend coffee served there. For the complete list of Original Fare member restaurants visit originalfare.com.

opening soon Transcend Coffee Garneau (or T2 as we’ve heard the staff refer to it) should be open May 1, if not then close to it.

Press Cafe (10846 82 Whyte Avenue) and Café Beirut Lebanese Bistro, a few doors east, will join the cheap and cheerful Arriba Mexico (around the corner on 107 Street) to extend the offerings of the 109 Street/Whyte Avenue area.

Nate Box has finally found a home for the Elm Café (10135 117 Street) in the Oliver area. It’s small, with space only for limited cooking, but expect great coffee, baked goods, and take away. Opening June-ish.

product news The Old Strathcona Farmers Market is open year round, excellent for local pork, chicken, lamb, and other meats, but there’s nothing like the seasonal markets chock full of bedding plants, greenhouse vegetables, and herbs to get us thinking about gardening and backyard barbecuing.

Callingwood opens Sunday, May 2 (10 am to 3 pm, 69 Avenue and 178 Street) with over 100 vendors. The City Market Downtown (9 am to 3 pm, north of Jasper Avenue on 104 Street) opens a week early this year on Saturday, May 15—that’s the week before the long weekend.

Parkallen (7018 109 Street, 780-436-8080) has a new look, and it’s wow! Sturdy bamboo tables, soft lighting, earth tones, and a can’t-be-missed plexi and metal wine unit taking centre stage make for a vast improvement. “It’s been 28 years!” says owner Joseph Rustom. “It was time for a change.” Your favourite Lebanese salad, meze, and old school pizzas taste even better in the new atmosphere.

Looking for other ways to purchase your local veg? Sign up for the The Organic Box (theorganicbox.ca) offering around 15 fresh, organic fruits, and vegetables (local during the growing season). Or, there is the Good Food Box (eatlocalfirst.com) organized by the folks at Keep Edmonton Original. It’s a weekly home delivery service of produce, dairy, ice cream, and a variety of other locally grown or produced foods year round.

Sherwood Park’s Cafe Haven (Sioux Road, 780-417-5523) is now a member of the independent restaurant group Original Fare. We enjoy Café Haven for its relaxed

Don’t forget u-picks or CSAs (Community Supported Agriculture). The 2010 free guide detailing where and when to pick your own fresh veg and fruits is available

24 May June 2010 | The Tomato

from the Alberta Farm Fresh Association, albertafarmfresh.com. Sparrow Organics won’t be at the City Market Downtown this year but they may have a few spots left in their CSA. Visit sparroworganics.com for info. City Market vendor Greens Eggs and Ham’s Futures Program allows customers to pre-purchase their excellent mixed greens, duck, and turkey charcuterie, and heirloom vegetables. Contact Mary Ellen at greenseggsham@xplornet.com Sweet Lollaplaooza (main floor Commerce Place, 780-436-3190) holds their next chocolate workshop May 1. Email brett@sweetlollapalooza.com to register.

We like the new garlic and onion loaf available at the Italian Centre Bakery.

Hearty textured, redolent with roasted onions—makes a terrific ham sandwich.

Gail Hall’s Seasoned Solutions Market Fresh Loft cooking classes will be held on May 29, June 5 and June 19. Shop the Edmonton Downtown Farmers’ Market with Gail to meet producers, choose ingredients to cook with, and create a fabulous meal. Classes are limited to eight people, $162.75. Call 780-437-0761 or visit seasonedsolutions.ca for more details.

Athletica Fitness (7508 Gateway Boulevard 780-641-0888, athleticasport.ca) offers free nutrition seminars by Evolve Nutrition Counselling about healthy restaurant ordering, label reading and sports nutrition. Drop-in from 3 pm – 4 pm on the last Saturday of every month.

Don’t feel like cooking? Order Sunterra’s Friday Night Feast—tasty three-course meals prepared from scratch for $14.99 per person. May menus include Sunterra’s famous butter chicken, Sicilian chicken breast, and a tangy tomato and artichoke salad. For dessert? Chai Crème Brulee. Visit sunterramarket.com for menu selections.

Meadow Vista Honey Wines, the Okanagan’s first meadery, bagged a gold for Cloud Horse, and their sparkling Joy won bronze at the 2010 Mazer Cup International in Boulder, Colorado against a line-up of over 170 honey-based wines. Meadow Vista will be pouring the prize winners— made from 100 per cent Alberta honey—at Indulgence a Canadian epic of food and wine on June 14.

Join Gail Hall on Worldwide Quest Culinary Tour to San Francisco, May 20 to 24.

Experience the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market, Chinatown, North Berkeley, and Marin County.

The cost is $2,895 US per person (double occupancy) plus airfare.

Contact Kerry at Worldwide Quest 1-800-387-1483 or visit seasonedsolutions.ca to book.

wine tastings happenings and events Don’t miss the best of Edmonton’s chefs, ranchers, and growers together with stellar Canadian wines at Indulgence a Canadian epic of food and wine, Monday, June 14. New wineries this year include Joie Farm, Ex Nihilo, Desert Hills, and Church and State, along with newbie restaurants Creations, L2, and Lux steakhouse+bar. The event celebrates a decade of Indulgence in the beautifully renovated grand ballroom of the Delta Edmonton South. Presented by Slow Food Edmonton. For details, visit indulgenceedmonton.wordpress. com, slowfoodedmonton.ca.

Tickets $50, jledmonton.org, 780433-9739.

Over 90 wineries are part of the 16th Annual Okanagan Spring Wine Festival (April 29 to May 9).

Enjoy events throughout the Okanagan such as All You Need is Cheese and Some Wine, May 1, Kelowna Art Gallery, The Terasen Gourmet and Grapes Gala, May 3, Cabana Bar and Grille, and the WestJet Wine Tastings May 7 and 8 at the Delta Grand Okanagan Resort. Tickets are available through ticketmaster.ca or by phone via 250-860-1470.

Crestwood Fine Wines & Spirits (9658 142 Street, 780-488-7800) continues the Wine, Food and Conversation Evenings May 11 with Robert Dziurman, food and beverage director, Creations, discussing new world versus old world wines paired with items from Creations’ menu. On June 8, Crestwood’s owner Satesh Narine,

pairs wine with foods from Origin India restaurant. Each is $10 per person from 7 to 8 pm; call to book.

Here’s the spring line up for Bin 104 tastings: The Olive and the Vine, May 12, 7 pm, $40; Beer, You Be the Judge, June 2, 7 pm, $25. Call 780-436-8850 or visit bin104.com to reserve your spot.

Get set for a spectacular Culinary and Wine Tour of Chile-Argentina with food and beverage impresario Peter Blattmann, February 14 to 23, 2011. Peter Blattmann was the food and beverage director at the Banff Springs for several years and has parlayed his experience and contacts into luxuriously unforgettable, one-of-a-kind culinary travel experiences. Visit gourmet-experience.com for details and itineraries.

Don’t miss Fantasmagoria, a benefit for the Canadian Studies Institute of the University of Alberta. Enjoy a taste of Paris, Montreal, and even Châteauguay on your plate—a highly exclusive taste experience of unique cheeses, wines, and accompaniments.

May 13, 6 pm, Campus Saint-Jean, 8406 91 Street. Tickets $200, Marie-Claude 780-485-8635, levert@ualberta.ca New and/or interesting food and drink related news for The Kitchen Sink can be faxed to 780-433-0492.

From page 17

1

pomegranate, seeded

3 Tbsp (45 mL) red wine vinegar 3 Tbsp (45 mL) olive oil 4 tsp

(20 mL) honey

1 tsp

(5 mL) Dijon mustard

Salt and pepper to taste

Bring the water and quinoa to a boil in a small saucepan. Reduce to a simmer, cover and cook for 10 minutes. Turn the heat off and leave the covered saucepan on the burner for an additional 5 minutes. Remove the lid and fluff with a fork. Set aside.

Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C).

Spread the almonds over a baking sheet and toast in the oven for about 5 to 7 minutes until they are fragrant and lightly browned.

Divide the spinach into 4 large or 6 small servings. Sprinkle the feta, onion, quinoa, pomegranate seeds and toasted almonds evenly over the salads.

Rocky Mountain Winefest returns to Banff May 7 and 8 for a wine-packed weekend in grand tasting halls, and at winemaker dinners, after-parties, and events.

Visit rockymountainwine.com/ banff for hotel packages, tickets, and other details.

Planning on visiting the Okanagan this summer? Schedule your trip around one of Joy Road Catering’s 2010 Cuisine du Terroir evenings.

Sunday nights are their Okanagan Al Fresco Vineyard Dinners at God’s Mountain Estate B&B beginning May 23 ($95 plus HST and gratuity). Thursday nights, beginning July 1, is Dinner With a Winemaker. Intimate dinners and wine tastings at several of the Okanagan’s most stellar wineries.

Visit joyroadcatering.com for the entire schedule and to reserve online. Since enjoying a lunch at Tinhorn prepared by Joy Road Catering, we’ve become huge fans.

Mark the dates as their events sell out quickly.

Cookbook Feature

Whisk the vinegar, oil, honey and Dijon in a small bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Drizzle the dressing over the salads and serve.

kerstin’s chocolates the shop

Slow Food Edmonton presents an Introduction to Mushrooms

by Martin Osis, president of the Alberta Mycological Society, hosted

by Culina Highlands (6509 112 Avenue) May 10, 7 to 9 pm. Limited seating is open to SFE members and guests. Call Darren Wood, 780-982-4503 for tickets.

The Tomato | May June 2010 25

feeding people

| caroline barlott

Cooking under the sun When we talk about cooking we usually mean using an oven, a microwave, or a barbecue. But there‘s another way to cook and with a device that uses only the sun‘s energy. They‘re called solar cookers and their simplicity and environmental benefits have Frank Flaman intrigued.

Frank, owner of the fitness, farm machinery, and security conglomerate The Flaman Group of Companies, became interested in solar cookers after learning about the social, economic, and health issues faced by some people who cook on stoves in developing countries. “Some people have to walk many miles to gather wood just to cook. So, providing a different, effective way of cooking can make a huge difference in a person’s life,” says Flaman. “While many individuals may not be able to afford fuel, those who have access to fuel might use a stove without proper ventilation. That puts people at risk for lung and eye disease, but solar cooking is an efficient alternative.”

Known for having a heart as big as his business sense (he has given money and time to countless ventures including a recent donation of half a million dollars to relief efforts in Haiti), it’s not surprising that Frank’s interest in solar energy derives from the desire to help others. He plans to continue donating money to help fund solar cookers for developing nations.

Frank has tried many solar cookers over the years—regardless of the style, they all collect the sun’s energy, cooking anything from ribs to pasta. There are three main types, each with its own unique benefits, and, as they use no fossil fuels, all directly benefit the environment.

A box cooker has a black interior and reflective panels directed towards the sun. With a box cooker, you can expect a slow,

26 May June 2010 | The Tomato

even cooking experience. Panel cookers use several flat panels to help collect the sun’s rays onto a pot placed under a glass bowl; these models can be made fairly inexpensively. Parabolic cookers make use of concave discs, which direct heat onto the bottom of a pot and generally cook foods more quickly.

It’s early spring and the sky is bright with sun, but the wind is cool. One of Frank’s solar cookers has huge metallic flaps resembling a satellite directed towards the sun. He holds a piece of newspaper in the area where a pot would be placed and the paper starts to smoke like it’s contemplating producing a fiery show. On a warmer day with a little less wind, he says, the paper would eventually catch fire signifying prime solar cooking weather. Still, the temperature in one of the cookers, according to the accompanying thermometer, is 200°F, which is very hot considering water boils at 212°F. He opens the back door of his largest solar cooker, where several large pots could be placed on the racks, and the heat from the oven radiates towards him. “It’s just like cooking with a regular oven,” he says. “The sun makes it hot, but it takes longer to cook the food.”

Solar cookers can be used in Edmonton, as demonstrated by Frank. But Conrad Nobert, the creator of greenedmonton.ca, cautions that people should watch their temperatures carefully when solar cooking. Conrad says the cookers should come with thermometers and it’s important to monitor the temperature to ensure that food is being cooked and not just warmed.

When food remains within the danger zone between 4°C to 60°C (40°F to 140°F) for over an hour, bacteria can grow creating a serious health risk (according to Health Canada). Solar cookers reach high enough temperatures

A coffeehouse with good food.

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Above, Frank Flaman demostrates a panel cooker.

At left, a box cooker with panels open to collect the sun.

www.goodearthcafes.com

GE Tomato Food and Drink 4.625 x 5.75 GENERIC.indd 1

to be safe, but it’s still important to check that temperatures haven’t dipped into the danger zone. His tip: food should be taken directly from a fridge and placed into a solar cooker that’s already at a higher temperature than the danger zone. If cloud coverage occurs after the food has started cooking, the oven would likely lose heat. In these cases, Conrad says, people can simply remove the pots from the cooker and move them to an indoor oven.

Solar cookers take about twice as long to cook a meal, though, of course, each type of food is different. Conrad, a vegetarian, chops his vegetables into small pieces, helping them to cook more quickly. He also says it’s important to use as little water as possible since it can add to the cooking time.

Conrad says a good solar cook book, like the one that came with his SOS Sport Cooker, can help rookies with the basics of cooking with the sun—according to the

4/20/10 12:22:35 PM

pictures within, you can even bake a cake in the oven. Since cooking will be a slower process than the usual fossil fuel variety, food won’t burn.

On his website, Conrad talks about the egg salad that resulted from his experimentations with a solar cooker. Within about an hour and a half, Conrad was able to make his supper on a regular Edmonton summer day. He says you can’t beat the environmental benefits: “When you [use] a solar cooker, you’re using zero fossil fuels—so [the cookers require] zero purchased energy and there isn’t any pollution.”

Edmonton writer Caroline Barlott's goal is to make a chocolate cake in her solar cooker.

You can find the SOS Sport Cooker in Edmonton at Earth's General Store, 9605 82 Avenue, 780-439-8725.

Each sale helps subsidize ovens for people in developing countries.

Shot on location in a Prominent Homes Ltd. showhome Dress by Who Cares?

The Tomato | May June 2010 27

The Marche Continued from page 14

Quinto Fausti and his wife Elide own Tenuta de Agnelis, near Offida in the southern part of the Marche.

The vineyards run up and down the gentle slopes with a view of the spectacular sandstone formations in the area (one outcropping holds Chiesa Santa Maria della Rocca or, St Mary’s of the Rock). The vines are bordered by olive trees—the farm produces a peppery olive oil as well.

Quinto walks the vines with a dog or a cat or two at his heels. It’s extremely hot and humid and the Montepulciano grapes have pretty much come to a standstill in their development. “We need some rain;” he says, which they get the next week, a cooling shower that gets

everything back to normal a few weeks before harvest.

marotti campi estate

prato grande chardonnay: Think citrus, lime and tangerine followed by notes of almond flower, and stone fruit. Complex, with character, medium-bodied with a pleasing finish. It’s a versatile white—have with grilled monkfish, chicken and mango salad, or roast pork.

Produces four different styles of Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi DOC called Albiano, Luzano, Salmariano, and Onyr; two Lacrima di Morro d’Alba DOC, Rubico and Orgiolo; and Donderè, Le Marche IGT, made from Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Montepulciano.

rosso piceno: A sassy mouthful of juicy red fruit, bright acidity and soft tannins create a terrific partner for casual foods, such as pizza or pasta or as an aperitif. anghelos: First notes of dusty herbs and cherries are followed by full-bodied rich red fruit and mellow round tannins. Complex, dynamic, and harmonious.

NOW RAISING COFFEE TO A

NEW LEVEL IN GARNEAU

(Morro d’Alba, north of Jesi)

Vineyards cluster around an elegant 14th century villa, home to the Marotti-Campi family for over a century. Grapes have always been a part of the mix here, but it wasn’t until Lorenzo, the son of Francesca* and Giuseppe, decided to get serious about the wines, that a modern winery was built (in an industrial area close by, as Lorenzo puts it “to not harm the landscape”).

Here grow the ancient grapes of the Marche, Lacrima di Morro d’Alba and Verdiccio del Castelli di Jesi, for decades known as the best wine for fish and sold by one company in a fish-shaped bottle. Don’t hold that against it. The Marotti-Campi wines

Now offering wine courses in Edmonton.

Courses satisfy the needs of the novice through to the professional sommelier.

(WSET) Wine and Spirit Education Trust is widely referred to as the “Gold Standard” in global wine education.

Register now!

t r a n s c e n d c o f f e e . c o m

28 May June 2010 | The Tomato

Lorenzo, serious as he is about making the best wine possible, is an irreverent and gracious host, taking time to visit other wineries of the region, and spending hours tasting through several vintages.

The wines are a revelation. The Lacrima with its heady perfume of roses, violets, and blackberry leaves is an all-out assault on the senses, in the best possible way. Tasting it with brodetto, the seafood stew of the region, gives new meaning to the phrase well-matched. The heady aromas and creamy textures of the various Verdicchio take it way beyond a simple fish wine and into white Burgundy territory.

They are, in a word, spectacular. *A bonus for travelers: Francesca operates a country house called Vigna Sant'Amico, a bucolic retreat of ten apartments and a unique tower apartment with a commanding view of the countryside.

Professional Wine Education for all Levels Wine and Spirit Education Trust (WSET)

Transcend Coffee now open in the Garneau Theatre building.

are formidable contenders: tasty, complex, well-made.

1.800.667.7288 www.winecollege.ca

Thank You! A special thanks from Peter Mielzynski Sr., the Chairman of PMA, purveyors of Canada’s leading Wines & Spirits, to the staff and students at Nait and all of those who attended the PMA Chairman’s Gala on March 29th. You helped make it one of the best we have ever had!

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sundried tomato pesto torta citrus mango salsa, compound butters, roasted red pepper spread, hummus, chipotle salsa, ultra-healthy spinach dip we’re at the downtown farmers’ market on select saturdays: May 22, May 29, June 12, 19, 26. look for the chandelier, near the blue plate diner

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The Tomato | May June 2010 29

according to judy

| judy schultz

How do you cook your armadillo?

This has been our year, hasn’t it?

The Olympics, the medals, the dewey-eyed versions of Oh Canada during those golden moments when we owned the podium.

Come on, admit it. We were proud, weren’t we?

But oh, Canada, here’s a news flash: we’ve done a lousy job of telling the rest of the world about our food, and what we love to eat. A national cuisine? We’re not even close.

Okay, so everybody knows about maple syrup and ice wine.

Wandering back and forth between New Zealand and Canada, they’re our two most-requested items from duty-free, and we haul them into Kiwi country by the vat. It’s like there’s a maple leaf in every droplet.

Imagine my surprise, then, when a Kiwi friend asked me about that other well-known Canadian favourite, armadillo meat.

“How do you cook your armadillo?” she asked, waving a small book under my nose. “Can you buy beaver burgers in your supermarkets? How about bear meat?”

These weren’t idle questions. She was reading The Canadian Food Companion, 2009 Revised Edition.

“It’s alphabetized,” she said helpfully.

I explained that as a longtime student of Canadian food ways, I’ve eaten antelope, Arctic char and various other A-list foods of an indigenous nature. But armadillo?

Not a chance. Nor do beaver burgers or bear steaks routinely show up in our supermarkets.

I asked to see the vile little tome that was peddling such weird stuff. As predicted, the book was alphabetized, and sure enough, there it was on page two: armadillo.

Right after apricot, and before something called “arrowhead.”

Moving on, then. In the same small book, under the B: beans. This is good. We do love our baked beans,

30 May June 2010 | The Tomato

and in any contest for a countrywide favourite, they’d be in the running. But after beans came bear, beaver, and beefalo, not to mention blood pudding and water buffalo.

Woe, Canada!

On behalf of a Newfie friend, I fast-flipped to the S page in search of seal flipper pie, but seal parts had somehow been left off the list of indigenous Canadian favourites.

Looking for other options under the S, (salmon, shrimp, spinach) I found …squirrel.

Squirrel? At which point I wondered who wrote this book, and in what century, and discovered that it’s published by a well-known American company, and updated annually.

I never thought I’d say this, but we do need another civil servant in Ottawa. An Ambassador for Common Canadian Cooking. A food ombudsman. Somebody to celebrate the saskatoon, the cranberry and the cheddar cheese.

Let’s hear it for beefsteak and rhubarb pie. Hail to our bacon, and butter tarts. Bring on our Nanaimo bar, which, by the way, has already been claimed by both New Zealand AND Australia.

I assured my Kiwi friend that with the exception of occasional game dinners, (eccentric events during which anything that swims, flies, crawls or walks on four feet is up for grabs) average Canadians are no longer major consumers of squirrel, beaver steaks or bear meat, and haven’t been since Paul Kane held his last big Christmas wingding at Fort Edmonton, but that was back in 1848.

Canada, we have work to do.

Meanwhile, I’ve explained to my Kiwi friend that never, not in my hungriest, most-homesick moment, have I hankered after a nice piece of grilled Canadian armadillo. Not even with maple syrup and ice wine chasers.

Judy divides her time between Alberta and New Zealand. There are no armadillos in either place.

NEW!

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VISIT THE NEW ORIGINAL FARE WEBSITE FOR:

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Pick up a new Original Fare billstuffer for new listings of Original Fare restaurants.

ORIGINAL FARE GIFT CARDS ORIGINAL GIFTS FOR ORIGINAL PEOPLE

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We will be redeeming your VIP points for Gift Cards in early spring. Have you moved? Access your Live Original VIP account online and update your contact information to ensure you receive your rewards.

wondering what a live original vip card is?

Want to earn gift card dollars every time you dine at a participating Original Fare restaurant?

Visit our website to find out about the VIP card program and how you can participate.

Looking for news ways to raise funds for your local, not-for-profit organization?

The Original Fare program may be for you. Contact jessie@originalfare.com for details.

The Tomato | May June 2010 31

Don’t miss it!

Join Edmonton’s top-notch chefs, local farmers and producers as they prepare succulent dishes to compliment Canada’s best estate and VQA wines.

June 14, 2010 Presented by Slow Food Edmonton.

Tickets $50 available after April 30 from The Junior League of Edmonton 433-9739 • Silent auction

• Fine Wines by Liquor Select on-site wine store

Restaurants 4th & Vine

Farmers Ranchers and Producers

Blue Chair

Belle Valley Farm Alpaca

Botanica (Delta Edmonton South)

Carmen Creek Bison

Café de Ville

Full Course Strategies

Culina Highlands & Mill Creek Creations (Sawridge Hotel) L2 (Fantasyland Hotel) Leva Café Lux steakhouse+bar Madison’s Grill (Union Bank Inn) Manor Café Moriarty’s Wine Bar NAIT Red Ox Inn Shaw Conference Centre Skinny Legs & Cow Girls Suede Lounge d’Lish Meal Assembly Italian Centre Shops featuring Red Fife Wheat Newget Kompany

Tenth annual!

Four Whistle Farms Lamb

Fruit Wineries EnSante Organic Orchard and Fruit Winery Meadow Vista Honey Wines

Haven Farm Osol Meatos

VQA and Estate Wineries and Artisan Breweries

Highwood Crossing Organic Farm

Alley Kat Brewing Company (Edmonton)

Hog Wild Boar

Averill Creek Vineyard (Cowichan Valley)

Greens Eggs and Ham

Inspired Market Gardens Edible Flowers Irving’s Farm Fresh Pork Lola Canola Honey Mo-Na Foods Mushrooms Morinville Greenhouses West County Herbs Nature’s Green Acres Nouveau Beef Spring Creek Ranch Premium Beef Sunworks Farm Sylvan Star Cheese

Gray Monk Estate Winery (Okanagan Valley) Henry of Pelham Family Estate (Niagara) Joie Farm (Naramata) Mission Hill Family Estate (Okanagan Valley) Mt. Boucherie (Okanagan and Similkameen Valleys) Tinhorn Creek Vineyards (South Okanagan)

Blasted Church Estate Winery (Okanagan Falls) Cave Spring (Niagara) Cedar Creek Estate Winery (Okanagan Valley) Church and State (British Columbia) Desert Hills (South Okanagan) Domaine Pinnacle Ice Cider (Quebec) Ex Nihilo (Lake County)

Waskwei Creek Farms All-Natural Venison

Indulge in an evening of fine VQA wines and prairie cuisine.