The Tomato - September/October 2010

Formerly City Palate

The flavour of Edmonton’s food scene | September October 2010 | thetomato.ca

The baker Adventures in gardening Hail to the zuke

t s a f k a e r b t a e r g A = A great da y!

Ahi TunA Club pancetta, tomato, spinach, chipotle, aioli with watermelon-feta salad.

Plain: not our strong suit Lunch served Monday through Friday 11:30 am – 2 pm Dinner served Monday through Saturday from 5 pm

Get a good start

Wholesome Breakfast

bring a Friend to lunch! Visit hardwaregrill.com, sign up for our newsletter and receive a gift certificate worth $35* towards the cost of your next lunch at hardware grill.

Start your day with us.

*Valid only when two or more people are dining.

Not redeemable for cash. Not valid in the month of December.

Breakfast Panini Vegetarian Breakfast Panini Steel Cut Oatmeal Southwest Breakfast Bake www.goodearthcafes.com

Starts September 15

GE Tomato Food and Drink 4.625 x 5.75 FALL.indd 1

97 Street & Jasper Avenue | Reservations 780.423.0969 or hardwaregrill.com

7/29/10 1:02:37 PM

Professional Wine Education for all Levels

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Contents editor Mary Bailey marybee@shaw.ca

publisher BGP Publishing

copy editor Amanda LeNeve

designer Bossanova Communications Inc.

contributing writers Krysta Forrest Colleen Ingoldsby Amanda LeNeve Judy Schultz Debby Waldman

illustration/photography Curtis Comeau Photography Rayne Kuntz/NAIT Myra Maslo Gerry Rasmussen

Features

6 8 11 12 14 16 17

layout and prepress

Transcontinental

distribution The Globe and Mail For editorial inquires, information, letters, suggestions or ideas, contact The Tomato at 780-431-1802, fax 780-433-0492, or email marybee@shaw.ca.

For advertising information call 780-431-1802.

the tomato is published six times per year: January/February March/April May/June July/August September/October November/December

by BGP Publishing 9833 84 Avenue Edmonton, AB T6E 2G1 780-431-1802 Subscriptions are available for $20 per year.

thetomato.ca

Masters at work

Terra Madre Meet the 2010 northern Alberta delegates

Adventures in Gardening Keeping up with the weeding | Amanda LeNeve

Oil and Vinegar A guide to quality | Mary Bailey

All Hail the Zuke!

There’s more to zucchini than a loaf

Lunch at the Cougar Cafe Mary Bailey

Is the Macaron the New Cupcake?

The next small thing in desserts | Debby Waldman

Departments

Bossanova Communications Inc.

printer

The Baker

5 18 20 23 24 26 30

Dish Gastronomic happenings around town

Wine Maven End of the summer whites | Mary Bailey

Proust Questionnaire Patrick and Doris Saurette, The Marc

Eating for Two Baby is born! | Krysta Forrest

Kitchen Sink What’s new and notable

Feeding People Taming Sophia | Colleen Ingoldsby

According to Judy Slipping sideways | Judy Schultz Cover: photo from NAIT Bakes Canadian Masters Workshop, Curtis Comeau Photography

KeepEdmontonOriginal.com Exercise your power as a consumer thoughtfully.

The Tomato | September October 2010 3

Coming soon NOW BAKING FRESH BREAD DAILY! A Fresh-Baked Taste of Europe!

The Italian Centre Shop now proudly offers our very own, fresh-baked European breads and rolls.

Baked daily in our southside state-of-the-art bakery, and served from the deli counter at both locations, you can be assured of its freshness and authentic, old world European quality.

Hot Dog Buns, White Bread, Hamburger Buns, Whole Wheat Sliced, Whole Wheat Buns, Medium Rye, Heavy Rye, Marble Swirl loaf, Pumpernickel loaf, Multigrain Sliced, French Bread, Pagnotta, Bavarian Rye, Crusty Buns - Regular, Crusty Buns - Baby, Bread Crumbs Regular, Bread Crumbs seasoned

Holiday Menu

by Chef Paul Campbell, Cafe de Ville The Tao of the Grilled Cheese Sandwich Holiday Entertaining: Crostini Six Ways

gastronomic happenings around town | Soulful indeed Soul Soup’s Carla Alexander and Sal Di Maio have finished renos on the space at 10542 Jasper Avenue and opened MRKT mid-summer for lunch. The fresh soups and sandwiches— made with bright flavour combos that play well together, a hallmark of Carla’s cooking—change daily. They will be in full swing for lunch and dinner September 1. The room is rustic hippie modern, not overdone, with long tables, a goodsized bar, and a curvy wood wall and ceiling that reminds us of boathouses and summer—always a good thing. Sal and partners have redeveloped an unattractive building into a cool-looking urban storefront with MRKT on the upper level and the Red Star bar peeking out of the lower level. This has not been the most pedestrian friendly part of Jasper Avenue— this building should help that. mrkt, 10542 Jasper Avenue, 780-757-6758.

Puttin’ things by My friend Leanne Smoliak makes a toothsome chutney. It turns out it’s her mother’s recipe (isn’t that almost always the case?). It’s a delish way to use up the last of the spectacular rhubarb this year—easy too.

Mrs. P’s Rhubarb Chutney

Look up to mrkt.

Up in the ’hood Been to the Elm yet? If not, you’re missing a treat. Nate Box’s tiny perfect sandwich shop is just what the neighbourhood needed. We like it because we’re guaranteed something tasty every day, but don’t have to ponder a dozen choices to find it. Nate features three sandwiches daily and we haven’t tasted anything less than delicious yet. Plus coffee and Duchess Bakery muffins.

10140 117 Street, west side, 780-756-3356

And she’s off Tasty sandwiches and coffee on offer.

Keep your fork duke, there’s pie The right tool makes the job easy, right? The new apple corer from Cuisipro is exactly that— its ergonomic design is easy on the hands, making it ideal for coring a bushel of apples for a collective pie-making session. The entry to the apple is smooth, with no tugging to get the core out, and the core releases easily. Dishwasher safe. No excuse now not to make pie. $13 at Dansk Gifts, 335 Southgate Shopping Centre, 780-434-4013.

4 c chopped rhubarb 1 c coarsely chopped golden sultanas 1 large onion, chopped 2 c cider vinegar 1 clove chopped garlic 1 T minced ginger root 1 T salt ¾ t each cloves, allspice, cinnamon 1 t cracked pepper ¼ t pepper flakes Simmer all ingredients in large pot slowly for 1 to 1 1/2 hours. Stir frequently. Pour into sterilized jars. Store in refrigerator for up to two months or process in boiling water for 10 minutes.

Something in the water Lit, elm, mrkt, Marc, Duchess, d’lish, Bothy, Moriarty’s—we love our new crop of restaurants.

Small, idiosyncratic, stylish, with attention paid to design and finishings; not necessarily lavish but with personality; casual, flexible—have a snack or several courses—with the emphasis on well-prepared food whose provenance matters.

We love the excitement that a few good new places brings to dining overall—it wakes us up, makes us pay attention again. It gets us out of our collective food/wine rut and makes us go out, not only to check out the new guys but to revisit old favourites too. 2010 will end up being a banner gustatory year (11 new restaurants!) in Edmonton. The Tomato is over the moon with excitement, because the scene had been a desert. Notice that wine bar is the new “grill” in restaurant nomenclature. Notice too, these new restos/café/winebars/bistros have one syllable names. Well, except for Queen of Tarts and Somerville Wine and Cheese Room, which I bet will end up being called Somerville’s.

dish

Anastasia Martin-Stilwell is leaving Travel Alberta and moving back to Jasper as the media and public relations head for Tourism Jasper.

We’ll miss her. Anastasia was a delight to work with and an ace at her job, but a girl’s gotta do what a girl’s gotta do. It’ll be fun to tour some of our Jasper favourites—Andy’s Bistro, the sushi bar at JPL, and George’s—with an old Jasper hand... well, not that old.

The Queen of Tarts

The right tool.

Baker Linda Kearney will be in her new space on the lower level of the 29 Armstrong building, November 1. “It’s a beautiful space, says Linda, “with 13 foot ceilings and lots of natural light.”

Expect high quality quiche, salads, signature sandwiches and vegetarian items in the café plus more cakes and small things (more in The Baker, page 6). Queen of Tarts Bakery Bistro 10129B 104 Street.

The Tomato | September October 2010 5

The Baker.

Mary Bailey

Mr Crick, the tax man, to Miss Pascal, the baker: ”I brought you flours.”

— From the movie Stranger than Fiction

This page: Master Baker Didier Rosada with participant Auston Hohn of Puratos in Calgary at NAIT Bakes. Facing page top: oven-fresh loaves. Facing page, bottom, from left to right: preparing loaves for the oven; Peter Reinhart inspects baked bread; Didier Rosada instructs NAIT student Sara Zacharias; the rewards of labour: a crusty baguette.

Photos Rayne Kuntz

6 September October 2010 | The Tomato

This summer, at NAIT Bakes Canadian Masters Workshop, bakers gathered to work with baking superstars Peter Reinhart (Johnson and Wales) and Didier Rosada (San Fransisco Baking Institute).

Several local bakers took advantage of the week; Angelo from the Italian Centre; John from Prairie Mill; James from the Shaw; a baker from Bee Bell; and Wanda from Grand Prairie, plus staff from several other culinary institutes across the country.

For two intensive days half the students worked with Peter learning the nuances of whole grains and techniques to coax out their complex flavours.

The groups switched and went downstairs to work with Didier to learn bread technique.

The professional series was started by NAIT baking chair Alan Dumonceaux.

“There was nowhere in Canada to do this sort of professional development so we (NAIT) launched our own,” he said.

“I thoroughly enjoyed it,” says Wanda Franke, Loaves (Grande Prairie). “I have all of Peter Rhinehart’s books. This four days confirmed that I’m on the right track. One thing I’ve learned for sure is that not all grains and flours are the same.”

Wanda gets her spelt flour from south Saskaskewan, while the organic whole wheat flour comes from close to home, Peace Country Milling. She started at the Grande Prairie Farmers Market in January with 75 loaves.

“Now we sell 500 loaves a week there.”

Alan’s other project is the Canadian national baking team.

The team (Marcus Mariathas, ACE Bakery, Toronto, Leopold Newsimal, SAIT, and Alan) is preparing to qualify in Las Vegas this fall, putting them into contention for the World Cup in Paris (2012). “The US team is the one to beat,” says Alan. www.nait.ca bakingteamcanada.ca See 'Baking' page 10

The Tomato | September October 2010 7

This spring, 17 local chefs, cooks and farmers were chosen by Slow Food Edmonton to represent northern Alberta at Terra Madre, the world gathering of food communities, October 21-25, concurrent with Salone del Gusto, in Turin, Italy.

Next stop: Turin Turin is the home of Salone del Gusto, the big, crazy, lovely food show whose focus is the handmade, the hand-grown, the rescued from extinction—a gastronomic experience like none other. Taste a cheese made from a unique herd of cattle found only in one, small Alpine valley, or explore the delicate changes in flavour in salt from different locations.

As well, the intensive seminars on offer are all in a day’s work for a citizenry whose reverence for quality food leads to, in one instance, the creation of an edible opera (out of the fairy tale of the three little pigs) using several types of salumi—I kid you not.

Terra Madre Next door is the Terra Madre world gathering of food communities where delegates from around the world meet to taste, discuss, share, and eat. The rest of us sample Slow Food Presidia foods—including bread made from Canada’s Red Fife wheat—engage in taste education workshops (way more fun than that sounds) and generally be obsessed with food, drink, and the people who produce it for five days.

8 September October 2010 | The Tomato

Underneath this enjoyable façade of hedonistic pleasure is the serious message of Salone del Gusto and Terra Madre.

Food, the lack of it, and the reclamation of local foods systems is the mission, the raison d’etre, of the bi-annual gathering.

Particularly in the developing world where the Slow Food mantra of good, clean, and fair has particular resonance—good quality of life, clean water, and fair prices for all those who grow and raise food.

Meet our northern Alberta community of delegates: 17 small farmers struggling to survive in a big box world—and, I’m happy to say, succeeding—and the cooks and chefs chosen for their leadership in putting local on the plate.

Gail Hall, Seasoned Solutions Loft Cooking School “Cooking classes take advantage of the Edmonton Downtown Farmers Market. Students meet the vendors and return to the cooking school to cook with the fresh ingredients purchased there.”

Guadelupe Ratcliffe executive sous chef Shaw Conference Centre “It’s my intention to share our experiences and local concerns with delegates, and I’ll share with colleagues upon my return.”

Tracy Zizek, chef/partner Café de Ville “I look forward to learning more about how other countries preserve their traditions, food, and community relationships.”

cooks and chefs

Jenna Beard, cook Red Ox Inn NAIT Apprentice of the Year Youth Delegate “I work at a restaurant who promotes the use of local products; I am interested on learning how to educate others as well as myself on the Slow Food movement.”

Blair Lebsack, executive chef Madison’s Grill “To be able to go to a meeting like this and learn more about local sustainability is a highlight of my career.”

Jasmin Kobajika, executive chef Crowne Plaze Chateau Lacombe “I’m especially interested in the indigenous people’s theme of Terra Madre. “

Brad Smoliak, chef Brad Smoliak Cooks “European food processing preserves the integrity of traditional foods and methods—we can learn to do that, too.”

Cindy Lazarenko, chef/partner Culina Highlands “I want to keep the Slow Food movement alive and strong, so that our children grow up with the option of good, wholesome, and local ingredients”

Northern Alberta Farmers

work with foodservice customers, and informing chefs about the unique qualities of regional suppliers.

Under 35 Farmers

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Jennifer Berkenbosch and James Vriend Sundog Organics, Edmonton “We grow vegetables and small fruits, including heritage and unusual varieties that do well in our northern climate. We are interested in attending Terra Madre in order to meet with and learn from others about food issues around the world.”

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Larissa Helbig Thundering Ground Bison Calmar “I am grateful for the opportunity to network with others who are doing the same and see what might be transferrable to my operation. “

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Ruby and Eric Chen Peas on Earth Market Garden Edmonton “We want to go to Terra Madre to learn, to share, and then to grow our industry.”

Mary Ellen and Andreas Grueneburg Greens Eggs and Ham, Leduc “We grow and sell odd, unusual heritage vegetables, greens, duck eggs, and fowl directly to restaurants, farmer’s market, select retail and CSA.” Danny and Shannon Ruzicka Natures Green Acres Natural Beef, Viking “We produce grass-fed, pasture raised, antibiotic and hormone free, meat and poultry through gentle, sustainable family farming practices.”

Graham Sparrow and Alison Landin Sparrow’s Nest Organics, Opal “We are looking at different options to diversify our farm to make it more financially sustainable. Europeans have been farming for centuries longer than Canada, so there would be so much to learn.”

Lori Menshik Full Course Strategies Edmonton Lori’s company has been instrumental in the development of the local table: coaching farmers to

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Kirsten Kotelko Spring Creek Ranch Natural Beef, Vegreville “I’m honoured to be a Terra Madre delegate. I’m excited to learn more about other farmers, then return to share this knowledge with our local farmers.”

Lisa Lundgard, student/market gardener, Peace River Lisa started a market garden last summer and sold fresh vegetables door to door. This year she has expanded the project and has a stand at the Peace River Farmers Market.

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terramadre.info salonedelgusto.it slowfood.com slowfoodedmonton.ca Visit slowfoodedmonton.ca for 2010 nomination criteria.

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The Tomato | September October 2010 9 Bothy_8H.indd 1

10/19/09 9:43:47 AM

Baking Continued frome page 7

“We’re making some yeasted breads as well, with butter and milk—like our buns, good for burgers. There’s no sugar, it’s the milk that makes it taste sweet,“ he says.

The next project? A high quality donut.

Myra Maslo photo

It’s not your imagination. Good small bakeries are popping up all over town, bringing new energy to what just a few years ago looked like a bleak landscape of boring, frozen, and made-from-amix breads and pastry. Here are some of our faves, both new and established.

“Our new croissant is a mix of both levain (the white and the wholewheat) and baker’s yeast.

The pastry case at Bon Ton Bakery, 8720 249 Street

Fresh speciality cheeses from

Canada and around the World

The Bon Ton Bakery 8720 149 Street, 780-489-7717 Eugene Edelman opened the Bon Ton in 1976, Hilton and Michelle Dinner took over in 1998—that’s over 50 years of baking. Renovated and expanded, they’re known for their healthy breads, cookies, cakes and pastry as well as an extensive selection of gourmet condiments.

“I estimate that Minh Trang, our yeast man, has made 3,900,000 mini-cinnamon buns,” says Hilton.

Make sure you try: pecan rolls, caraway rye.

Maintenance, repair and restoration of marble and granite countertops.

S T O N E C A R E

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Tree Stone Bakery 8612 99 Street, 780 433-5924 Yvan and Ritsuko Chartrand bought Tree Stone from its founder Nancy Rubiliak, and have expanded the offerings. What’s new? “We have two starters now (for pain au levain, the majority of their breads) a white (as Nancy had) and a whole wheat,” says Yvan. “Breads made with a starter take three days to make, with an 18 hour fermentation—that’s what creates the flavour and textures.

Italian Centre Shop Bakery 5028 104A Street, 780-989-4869 “I wanted to sell fresh bread.

I checked out the chain supermarkets and discovered that some of their fresh bread is actually shipped frozen and then baked at the store. I knew we could do better than that,” said Teresa Spinelli, regarding their new bakery by the south side store. Pastry chef Angelo Antonucci manages it, overseeing the production of all breads and pastry. The production bakery is all about bread, supplying both stores daily with a large volume of several different loaves and buns, as well as their wholesale business for commercial customers. Large ovens line the walls alongside a machine whose sole purpose is to cut pieces of dough into bunsized balls and ready them for baking. Angelo is game to try just about anything, including making several hundred baguettes from Red Fife wheat for the Indulgence Ten event. Make sure you try: Olive ciabatta, Portuguese tarts.

See 'Baking' page 29

10 September October 2010 | The Tomato

Gardening ADVENTURES IN

Amanda LeNeve

I am, admittedly, a trial-byfire kind of person. In this particular

situation,

I

was

pretty sure that my lifelong exposure to gardening via my parents

and

grandparents

would be sufficient preparation and background for my own 15 x 30 foot community garden plot. I wouldn’t say that I was completely unprepared, but I would admit that maybe I bit off a bit more than I could chew.

I had been interested in participating in a community garden for several years. The idea of growing my own food has always been something that interested me. The reward of nurturing seeds and bedding plants to maturity is what I imagine parents must feel watching their children grow into adults—maybe not as long or involved a process, though. So, when I came across a sign at a community garden in my neighbourhood advertising available plots, I jumped at the chance.

When I showed up at my plot for the first time—hoe, shovel, and various other gardening tools in hand—I was excited to get in there and feel the rich soil between my fingers. My enthusiasm waned slightly each time I lifted the hoe to break up the soil and it wasn’t long before I was tired, sweaty, and ready for a break. By the end of the day, though, my plot was neatly planted with a variety of seeds and bedding plants and I couldn’t have been prouder or more excited to see how it would all turn out.

I wanted to take full advantage of my garden’s bounty, so I planted

vegetables I like to eat a lot of: kale, Swiss chard, leeks, beets, carrots, snap peas, tomatoes, shallots, and zucchini. At the advice of my mom and dad, I also included some Canadian garden classics—potatoes, bush beans, and corn. As I write this, I’m pretty happy with everything I planted and must say it’s all looking pretty good (apart from the weeds I’m having trouble keeping up with).

Yields have, so far, been pretty significant. I have more kale and Swiss chard than I know what to do with and I have picked a few plump and juicy snap peas.

Watching my leeks’ stalks thicken, my corn grow taller and taller by the day, my tomato plants produce flowers, and my zucchini plants produce little, baby zucchinis is so exciting. Sharing the progress of the gardening season with other people I know who are avid gardeners has also been something I’ve really enjoyed about this process. It’s fascinating to hear others stories and try to learn from them.

Though I am often temporarily blinded by the amazing growth of my little vegetable babies, I can’t

ignore the hard work that has been involved throughout the entire process. My biggest challenge, of course, has been keeping up with the weeding. Pruning and keeping up with harvesting high yield plants has also been a bit of a stress. I actually had a nightmare about harvesting kale a couple nights ago. But, in the end, I think it’s all been worth it.

I’m so glad I took a garden on this summer. Perhaps having some help would have made this project a little easier to tackle, but I have to admit that I’m pretty proud of how well I have done on my own and I can’t wait to start it all over again next year.

I didn’t really know how many different ways there were to cook kale until I brought home two full recyclable grocery bags full of it after my first harvest. This recipe is one that I thought I’d experiment with, but wasn’t really sure how I would like it. Surprisingly, it’s now one of my favourite ways to eat this nutrient rich green.

kale & ricotta salad adapted from Gourmet Magazine ½ bag* kale, stems and centre ribs discarded 1

shallot, finely chopped juice of half a lemon pinch salt freshly ground black pepper (to taste)

4T

olive oil

1c

ricotta * regular sized, recyclable grocery bag

Chop kale into thin slices and place in large salad bowl.

In a separate, smaller bowl, whisk shallot, lemon juice, salt, and pepper together. Add oil to mixture in a slow stream and whisk with other ingredients until combined.

Toss ricotta with kale and mix with dressing.

Makes 6 servings.

Amanda plans to write a cookbook called 1001 Ways with Kale.

The Tomato | September October 2010 11

OIL VINEGAR OIL and

MARY BAILEY

No matter where you go in Italy the locals will claim to have the best oil. The Tuscans say “our oil is so elegant, so simpatico, drizzled on your bistecca Fiorentina,” and the Campani say “No! You must have an oil from Campania for your fish or to fry your calamari.”

Even so, other Italians know there is something special about the extra virgin olive oils of Umbria.

Particularly, those that come from the olive groves surrounding Trevi, a charming and historic hill town in central Umbria. The felicitous combination of soil, aspect, and elevation makes the olives cultivated here a bit finer than anywhere else.

Consider this: 90 per cent of Trevi’s oil is considered extra virgin quality whilst only 10 per cent of Italian oil overall is extra virgin. Why is that? The soil is primarily limestone, easily drained and chock-full of minerals. The hillsides protect from major winter storms and funnel light and heat in the shoulder seasons.

The elevation is almost too high, making for a bad year every decade or so when it’s too cold and they lose trees. But, like vines, olive trees make better fruit when they have to fight a bit for survival. The Moraiolo varietal popular here (Umbrian DOP oils must be at least 60 per cent) likes it up high. Other conditions demanded of the DOP* designation are handpicking and an overall acidity of under 0.8 per cent—Trevi oils generally come in around 0.65 per cent.

12 September October 2010 | The Tomato

Umbrian oils have bright herbaceous flavours, intense, yet not sharp or acidic, with brilliant green tones when young. There really isn’t anything like them anywhere else.

I went to olive oil school in Trevi in 2001. We listened to lecturers from the University of Bologna discuss the finer points of organoleptic complexity and studied charts of free acidity levels in oil samples.

We tasted dozens of oils, went to several traditional and modern, small and large frantoia (olive mills), and watched a lovely old man prune an already tidy-looking tree. (We also visited a research centre near Spoleto where they have been trying to grow truffles commercially for a decade. “How many have you been able to produce?” one researcher was asked. “None,” was the answer, but it wasn’t for lack of trying.)

This time I’m visiting an agriturismo, that lovely European invention of farm holiday with good food and a pool. This one, the Agriturismo I Mandorli, is run by three sisters, Maria, Sara, and Allessandra along with their mother Wanda. It’s a jolly place filled with toddlers and cats and stunning views of the Umbrian plain around every corner.

They want to show us their olives, plus a special tree.

The trees on the hills around Trevi are impeccable—which isn’t always the case in other regions. Postwar rural depopulation affected all aspects of country life, even the olive trees. Often they’re left under the care of a neighbour, and get picked every year, taken to the frantoio to be pressed, and everybody gets their allotment.

The family grove is ingrained. When I asked one of our instructors which brand of oil he preferred he looked scandalized. “Why would I buy oil?” he said. “I have my family oil.”

I wonder if not having any family oil is the sign of true impoverishment.

Back at the agriturismo, after looking at the 1,700 year old tree** we tasted bread toasted on an open fire, splashed with oil, season with a bit of salt tossed over. It’s hard to describe how delicious it was, yet so simple. It tasted like the air itself—fresh, fragrant, alive. We are offered slices of crostini, an open lattice-topped tart (made with olive oil in place of butter) made with their wild cherry jam. It, too, of course, is the best tart ever. Now I know what they do with all those preserves (having not seen many eating toast and jam at breakfast).

They make pie.

an affordable indulgence. Splash a bit in your soup, on your vegetables, or on your toast. Or, make a pie.

*DOP (Italy) stands for Denominazione di Origine Protetta and is a guarantee of origin and particular production processes for foodstuffs.

**It’s known as the Olive of Sant' Emiliano. It looks gnarly, and biblical, with a trunk in several pieces. It’s outside of Trevi, near Bovara, close to the Agritruismo I Mandorli and Benedictine Abbey founded in 1158.

The story goes like this: Miliano, the first bishop of Trevi, was martyred in 304 BC while tied to this tree. It still produces olives today.

Crostada I Mandorle

Spain, Greece, Australia, New Zealand, and California all produce excellent extra virgin olive oils.

Unfortunately, good oil is not inexpensive, and you get what you pay for.

2c

flour (or use ½ whole wheat, ½ white)

1t

sea salt

¼c

olive oil

½c

cold water

Why is it expensive? It’s handmade and though there’s lots of oil around, there’s not a lot of excellent, best-quality extra virgin oil. Fully 50 per cent of the oil pressed in Italy is refined to remove bad flavours or too much acidity. In the new world, growers are paying off their relatively new investment in groves and equipment.

Grease an 8-inch tart pan and line the bottom with a parchment paper round. Preheat oven to 375ºF.

It’s also a question of perception.

If you think you can get it for less, why pay more? People tell me all the time about the great buy they snaffled at a big box store: Italian extra virgin olive oil and only $8 per litre! Sorry, not possible. We’ve heard the stories of the unscrupulous importer slapping an extra-virgin sticker on sunflower oil from Tunisia, or the canola oil with a little chlorophyll added and sold at a too-good-tobe-true price.

Turn the dough out on a lightly floured work surface, and roll into a circle large enough to fit your tart pan.

Add more flour if the dough is sticky.

Transfer the dough carefully into the pan—it should be quite thin and you will have enough left over for the top lattice. Trim any excess.

I think of a good extra virgin olive oil as one of life’s little pleasures;

Combine the flour and salt in a bowl.

Add the oil and mix it in with a fork.

Add the water a bit at a time, mix until it is absorbed, then knead lightly until the dough comes together into a ball.

Let rest for about 20 minutes in the refrigerator.

Cover the bottom with wild cherry (or black currant, or raspberry) jam. Cut the left-over dough into a lattice and pace over the top.

Bake for about 20-25 minutes until the crust turns golden. Eat warm or cold.

Makes an 8-inch tart.

Buying Extra-virgin Olive Oil Taste Test Extra virgin olive oil has flavour.

It’s supposed to have a personality, and there are recognized taste profiles. For example: Umbrian oils are bright and bold; Tuscan oils, soft and grassy; Sicilian and Sardegnan oils, fresh, light, and citrusy. The flavours are definite, but not necessarily strong. Then again, not everyone likes the forthrightness of these unrefined oils. If you are accustomed to neutral oils such as corn, pomace, or refined canola, extra virgin olive oil will seem strong. That’s its character. Keep in mind that the richer flavours allow you to use less. But, if the oil is harsh, greasy, rancid, moldy, or fusty upon opening, take it back. If it’s just plain boring with no discernable flavour, it may be maturing but will still be acceptable to use.

Dark Bottles The vitamin E content and other antioxidant qualities of extra virgin oils are quickly lost to light.

Cans are good, they keep out the light and they are not an indication of a generic oil. I saw some very expensive DOP oils at the CIBUS Food Show in some very coollooking cans.

Small Bottles The Spanish consume almost 14 litres of oil per year; Canadians, under a litre. Not only does that mean you’ll probably not use a four litre can monthly, stores will move stock more slowly as well.

Buy the smallest bottle you can and use it up. Do not save for a special occasion—oils are best when young.

Read the Label Buy DOP if you can as it’s a quality guarantee. If not DOP, buy oils bottled where they are from. For example, a Sicilian oil bottled in Sicily, not Naples or New Jersey.

Look for a town or frantoio (olive mill) rather than just an importer’s name. There are some excellent importer-branded extra virgin oils on the market, but don’t buy unless you try first. Look at our Tasting Chart (pg 28) for details on several oils readily available in Edmonton.

WHAT IS EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL? EU Label Standards There are US regulations that mirror the EU standards, in draft stage at present.

Extra-Virgin (extravergine) Olive Oil must be made by mechanical means*, with no chemicals added during the process. It is by nature the first press— there is only one pressing. The acidity is less than 0.8 per cent and it is judged to have a superior taste (yes, virgin olive oils undergo taste tests).

Virgin Olive Oil must be made by mechanical means, with no chemicals added during the process, acidity less than two per cent, and judged to have a good taste.

Olive Oil is a blend of virgin and refined production oil of no more than 1.5 per cent acidity. Neutral flavour.

Refined olive oil is virgin olive oil that has been refined (usually to lower acidity and remove unwanted flavours) by charcoal or other chemicals, but not solvents. Acidity is not more than 0.3 per cent. It used to be called pure olive oil. No discernable taste.

Wineries often make oil and it will be of the same quality as the wine.

Winery oils are difficult to find in shops, but there is one wine agency that brings in extra virgin olive oil.

Informational Labeling I used to belong to an olive oil

Olive Pomace Oil is refined using heat and solvents to wring all the oil out of the pomace (what’s left over after pressing). It is neutral in flavour with a high smoke point, popular in restaurants.

Pure olive oil and light olive oil have no meaning but generally are a blend of virgin and refined oils. Light is not lighter in calories.

Other terms Cold pressed: means the olives were not heated over 35°C at any time. Why would they heat the olives?

In central and northern Italy, olives are picked in November. They would heat the paste somewhat to allow for the oil to be released.

Hand picked: Not all extra virgin oils would be from handpicked olives, only DOP oils. A sign of quality as the fruit will have been more gently handled.

Organic: there is now a green and blue EU symbol for organic olive trees. *Mechanical means: pressing, centrifuge, or Sinolia.

club out of New York City. Every month they’d send one bottle of extra virgin olive oil, always fantastic with a label that was a work of art. That was the problem.

Minimalistic, no bottling date, or best before date, or even a producer. More information please!

The Italian government attempted to bring in laws in 2006 that would have required every bottle of extra virgin oil to have both the grower and the producer’s identity on the bottle. The EU quashed it, so we’re back to voluntary information on labels.

What’s the big deal about balsamic vinegar (or, as I once heard it described on a cooking show, balsamatic)? It’s a historic product of the Emilia-Romagna region, particularly the town of Modena. It was medicine—people would take a spoonful for a sore throat or an upset stomach (balsamic refers to its healthful properties—a healing balm). The little barrels (called the batterie) were kept in the attic.

You’ll see houses in Modena with a series of little windows under the eaves designed for air flow.

Villa San Donino has them. It was women’s work to manage the batterie and it was often part of the dowry for the daughter.

When Davide Leonardi’s parents bought the Villa San Donini after WWII, the batterie came with the house. Up until the 1970s when commercialization become common, balsamico was something you gave as a gift or to the doctor or the priest.

VINEGAR

Up in the attic at Acetaia Villa San Domino The house looks like something out of the movies. It is. Bertolucci’s 1900 was made here. The movie has several shots of the interior of the house, and its spectacular early 21st century art collection.

Davide and Christina Leonardi live and farm at the Villa San Donino outside of Modena. The house, occupied by the Nazis in WWII, is now a working farm growing grapes, cereal crops, livestock, and creating balsamico di Modena.

We’re here to learn more about the famed vinegar of Modena and to separate fact from fiction.

The traditional balsamic of Modena (balsamico tradizionale di Modena) is made from a reduction of pressed Trebbiano and Lambrusco grapes (mosto cotto) grown in the region. A small amount of old vinegar (like a starter in making bread) is added to the each year’s must and the vinegar process starts. Then the See ’Oil and Vinigar‘ page 28

The Tomato | September October 2010 13

— MARY BAILEY —

A LL HA I L T H E Z UKE !

The summer squash we call zucchini is beloved around the world. Why, then, do we treat it like the equivalent of the door-stop Christmas cake? Because we’ve all had too many giant zucchini with flesh that looks and tastes like cotton balls, that’s why.

When it comes to this squash, bigger is not better. They are best eaten while in flower and under eight inches in length, which, actually, gives us the compelling reason we need to bother growing them. Since the flowers are almost impossible to find or too expensive when you do (I saw them once at a market for $2 each) and harvesting the flowers inhibits growth, by growing your own you can have your flowers and eat your (little) zucchini too.

There’s more to zucchini than a loaf. Whether you call it a calabaza, a courgette, or a zucca, here are several good reasons to love zucchini.

zucchini flowers (fior de zucca) stuffed with ricotta and mint Worth the trouble, fried zucchini flowers are a fantastic first course or the start to a tapas-style dinner. Deep-frying on the stovetop isn’t hard—but it’s no place for multitasking. It must hold all of your attention. Long tongs and elbow-length silicone gloves keep skin safe from splatters. If you’ve made tempura, that experience will help—it’s essentially the same technique.

1 sml pkg

(approx. 7 ounces) ricotta (drain for a few minutes if the ricotta is soupy)

pinch

ground nutmeg

¼c

freshly grated Parmesan zest of 1 lemon, plus lemon for serving

1 sprig

thyme, leaves only, chopped

1 sml

red chili, seeded and finely chopped

14 September October 2010 | The Tomato

1 bnch

1¾ c

fresh mint, finely chopped and split

parchment-covered cookie sheet until all the flowers are filled.

sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper

Put flour and pinch salt into a mixing bowl. Pour in the wine and whisk until thick and smooth—the consistency should be like heavy cream or a crêpe batter. If it's too thin, more flour; if too thick, more wine.

flour salt

1½ c

sparkling wine or water

10-12

zucchini flowers, pistils or stamen removed, but with a bit of stem left on to act as a handle. vegetable oil (I use ¾ canola to 1/3 extra virgin olive oil for the flavour)

Mix the ricotta in a bowl with nutmeg, cheese, lemon zest, thyme, chili, and half the chopped mint. Check for flavour balance, adding more herbs, lemon, or seasoning, if necessary.

Gently open the flowers and fill with ricotta mixture, using a spoon or piping bag. Hold by the stem handle and, cradling each flower in the palm of one hand, gently work the filling down into the flower so they look like little pouches, then pinch the ends of the flowers together. Place on a

Pour up to 3-4 inches of oil into a deep pot and heat to 350ºF.

zucchini and beet latkes This simple latke recipe makes a delish side dish with turkey. Fritters and latkes are a good use of zucchini that may be beyond their first blush of youth.

2 med or 1 lrg

zucchini, cottony centre removed

Dip flowers one by one into the batter, letting excess drip off. Working quickly, carefully place each flower into the hot oil, releasing them away from you.

Batter one or two more flowers and continue to fry each until all are golden and crisp all over. Don’t crowd the pan. Check the oil temperature about every three flowers, to make sure it remains at 350ºF.

1 lrg

beet (or equivalent), peeled

1 med

onion, chopped

1

egg, lightly beaten

2T

flour

½t

baking powder

Drain on the paper towels.

Grate zucchini and beets and place in strainer or colander. Squeeze out as much moisture from the vegetables as you can. When dry, put in a large bowl and combine with all other ingredients, except for the oil. Check for seasoning.

To serve: Place flowers on serving platter, sprinkle with salt and a squeeze of lemon. Toss remaining mint over and serve.

These are best served immediately, but can be reheated in a 350ºF oven.

sea salt and fresh cracked pepper ½-1 c

canola oil for frying

Heat about ¼ cup oil in large frying pan until very hot. Drop one large tablespoon of beet/zucchini mixture into pan for each latke. Use back of spoon to flatten mixture so that each latke is about two-inches in diameter (or larger, if you prefer). Fry over medium-high heat about four to five minutes per side until crisp. Drain on paper towels and keep warm in oven.

Continue, using more oil, if necessary, for each batch. Serve hot with sour cream or a light tomato sauce. Makes 16-26 latkes depending on size.

zucchini salad Using a mandolin, or V-slicer, makes quick work of zucchini, but a vegetable peeler or good knife skills do the trick just as well. Zucchini partners beautifully with lots of mint. You can also add cherry tomatoes, if you have some.

1/3 c

extra-virgin olive oil juice squeezed from half small lemon (about 2T) sea salt and fresh cracked pepper

baked zucchini bacon fritters

¼t

3 med

zucchini, chopped

1 hndfl

½

fresh jalapeño, stemmed and minced

fresh basil, coarsely chopped (about ½ c)

¼c

toasted pine nuts

2t

2-3 med zucchini (about 2 pounds)

small wedge pecorino or parmesan

finely chopped green onion sea salt and freshly cracked pepper

1 lrg

egg, lightly beaten

¼c

grated mozzarella or provolone cheese

¾c

milk (or beer)

1½ c

fine bread crumbs (approximately)

1/8

dried crushed red pepper

t

smoked paprika (or cayenne)

6 slices cooked bacon, finely chopped Preheat oven to 400°F. Stir together zucchini, jalapeño, onion, salt, and pepper. Check for seasoning (under salt as the cheese and bacon are salty). Add egg, cheese, milk, and bacon to zucchini mixture and toss to mix. In a separate bowl, whisk together crumbs, cayenne, ¼ teaspoon salt, and 1/8 teaspoon pepper. Stir in zucchini mixture until incorporated.

Shape into patties or logs and place on a parchment covered cookie sheet.

Cook for 10 minutes at 400ºF then lower heat to 350ºF. Continue cooking until fritters are browning and a toothpick inserted comes out clean, about 10 minutes. Serve hot with a squeeze of lemon or a chunky fresh tomato sauce.

Make a dressing by whisking oil, lemon, seasoning, and dried pepper in a large bowl. Set aside.

Slice zucchini into ribbons (about 1/16 inch thick). Add zucchini, nuts, and basil to the dressing and toss to coat.

Using a vegetable peeler, shave strips from cheese wedge over salad.

zucchini salsa fresca This no-cook sauce is reminiscent of a Mexican salsa verde, excellent on pork, fish, or chicken. If you don’t like cilantro, use parsley.

2 med

zucchini, trimmed and chopped

1 hndfl cilantro plus leaves for garnish 1/3

c

Ratatouille must be the most accommodating vegetable dish of all.

The original idea from the south of France was tomatoes, eggplant, and squashes sautéed with fresh herbs and olive oil. It’s the essential late summer dish—simple, delicious, and versatile.

You can rough cut the vegetables in a simple rustic style, or dice as in the first recipe. You could julienne the vegetables as in this Asian version adapted from a recipe by Chef Ming Tsai.

Or you can get really fancy and follow Thomas Keller’s lead. Layer thin, almost transparent, rounds of the vegetables (this was the dish that made the food critic a human again in the movie Ratatouille).

You can cook the vegetables all together, in stages, or you can roast or grill them. Eat it hot or cold, as a pizza topping, or an omelette filling. You can put it in the oven with some cheese and call it a casserole. You can probably even freeze it—pull out in the middle of February to get a hit of summer.

Use whatever you’ve got that’s fresh and delicious and bountiful, or what looks good at the market. We used vegetables found in most Alberta gardens and didn’t miss the eggplant at all.

mediterranean ratatouille ¼c

canola oil, or a fruity extra virgin olive oil, plus more as needed

1 sml

yellow onion, diced

1 clove

garlic, minced

zest of one small lime

1-3 stalk

fresh thyme, leaves only

sea salt and fresh cracked pepper

1

sweet pepper, diced

1

zucchini, diced

ground coriander (optional)

1

yellow squash, diced

4-6

tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped or small whole tomatoes

white or red onion, chopped

5T

fresh lime juice

1

jalapeño (or to taste), chopped and seeded

1¼ t

ratatouille: sautéed summer vegetables starring zucchini

Combine zucchini, cilantro, onion, chile, lime juice, and zest in food processor. Pulse until well combined.

Add seasoning and coriander, if using.

Puree until smooth. Garnish with reserved cilantro leaves. Use within a day for the best flavours.

1 sml bnch fresh basil, chopped 1 sml bnch parsley, chopped sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper

Place a large sauté pan over lowmedium heat and add oil. Once hot, add the onions and garlic to the pan.

Cook the onions, stirring occasionally, until they are lightly caramelized, about five minutes. Add the peppers, zucchini, and squash and cook for about five minutes. Add the tomatoes, basil, parsley, and seasoning to taste.

Cook for about another five minutes.

Stir well to blend. Serve immediately or chill. Keeps for about one week in the fridge.

asian ratatouille Adapted from Ming Tsai’s Blue Ginger Cookbook. Serve with chicken, fish, or by itself with rice. It may seem fiddly to cook the vegetables separately but the payoff is in the final flavours of the dish.

2

zucchini, julienned lengthwise

2

yellow squash, julienned lengthwise

1

yellow pepper, julienned

4T

canola oil

1 clove

garlic, chopped fine

2t

chopped fresh ginger

1

large yellow onion, julienned

2

yellow tomatoes, cut into 1/8 dice

4 sprigs

thyme, leaves only, chopped fine

1 bunch (approx ½ c) basil, leaves only 1 bunch (appox ½ c) Thai basil, leaves only 3t

tamari sauce salt and pepper, to taste

Place the zucchini and squash in separate pans. Season with salt and let rest for one hour to allow the moisture to be released. Pat the vegetables dry. Prepare a sauté pan coated with 1 tablespoon of oil over high heat.

Add ½ teaspoon garlic, ½ teaspoon ginger, zucchini, and squash. Sauté until the vegetables colour and are limp. Season with pepper. Set aside.

In a sauté pan over medium high heat, cook the onion, remaining garlic, and ginger for eight to 10 minutes. Add the tomatoes and thyme and continue to cook for another eight minutes.

Remove from the heat and let cool.

Add the zucchini, squash, Thai basil, basil, and soy sauce to the tomato mixture. Adjust the seasonings, being careful not to over salt as the julienned vegetables received salt in the preliminary steps.

See ‘Hail the Zuke’ page 25

The Tomato | September October 2010 15

Lunch at The Cougar Café Mary Bailey

Remember 2006? The economy was gogo, staff were impossible to find, everyone was going at a breakneck pace. That’s when Blaine LaBonte and Irene MertzLabonte decided to build and operate an in-house café at Cougar Tool, their second-generation family business.

Blaine had worked in several areas of Cougar after university, then helped create the manufacturing unit.

He has developed Cougar into an international company with locations in Saudi Arabia, India, and Iran. The idea of the company cafeteria came about during succession planning. “Blaine came up with it, and I made it happen,” says Irene. Planning was key. “It was important that it be in the centre, between the office and the shop floor, so everybody knew from the start it was for everyone,” says Irene.

“It’s been good for Cougar,” says Irene. “We’ve gotten a rep, that’s the place with the cafeteria. We even budget for charity; this year it’s Mustard Seed and Relay for Life,“ says Irene.

Kim Amy and Lien Bui run the café and both have several years of cooking experience. They make their own burgers, all the soups, cook whole turkeys, and create the atmosphere.

There is no soup nazi here.

“People can get exactly what they want,” says Kim. “One person orders one poached egg, one slice of tomato every day.”

The cafeteria is open to all employees and occasionally to guests such as auditors, outside trades, and board meetings. There are six free meals per year, on holidays and for employee appreciation.

“The break-up celebration is always a big deal. People here work hard all winter,” says Irene.

The most popular dishes, besides breakfast, are the chicken parm and the vermicelli bowl. The menu is created for men (eight women work at Cougar), yet there’s always a fruit platter and at least one vegetarian dish. “Our staff is multicultural,” says Irene. “Some don’t eat pork, some don’t eat beef.”

Kim ands Lien are comfortable turning out Mexican, Vietnamese and Chinese influenced dishes. “When it’s cold we make chili,” says Lien.

“Some order their meals to take home for dinner even for their family,” says Kim. Irene’s favourite dish? Lotus shrimp salad.

Manufacturing manager Gary Spencer has direct responsibility for the café. “Everybody gets coffee and snacks, and about 60 per cent of our staff eat here regularly,” he says. “How much coffee?” I ask “900 cups,” he answers. “600 before 9 am”.

“Staff tell us they haven’t bought groceries since the cafe opened,” says Irene.

From left: Irene Mertz-Labonte, Kim Amy, Lien Bu 16 September October 2010 | The Tomato

• Debby Waldman •

Is the macaron the new cupcake?

I can’t remember exactly when I realized that cupcakes were the next big thing in desserts, but I can tell you when I learned they were on their way out: a month after I invested in icing tips so that my daughter and I could make our own and impress folks at the next neighborhood wing-ding.

When I proudly announced my purchase to a local foodie, she informed me that cupcakes were passé. “The macaron is the new cupcake,” she said.

I shouldn’t have been surprised. When it comes to trends, I tend to lag behind. I am tempted to blame my parents, children of the Depression whose attitude toward most inanimate objects was, “You can never go wrong with the classics.” (This is how, for my first job out of journalism school, I wound up wearing a pinstriped business suit to cover high school football games in rural New Hampshire. But that’s another story.)

When it comes to being out of touch with food trends, I’d be a hypocrite if I said it was Mom’s fault. Food was one area where she was always ahead of the curve.

Back in the 1970s, when her peers still viewed jell-O molds as ideal side dishes, Mom was making tabouleh, baba ganouj, ratatouille, and pasta salads with chopped zucchini and vinaigrette. Most of the people in my neighborhood thought that baba ganouj was the Beatles’ yogi, and zucchini was a bathing suit that you wore to the zoo.

When I asked Mom recently what inspired her to make dishes that were decades ahead of the times, she gave the credit to her friend Madeline, who is Lebanese and introduced her to Middle Eastern specialties; and to my father, who was obsessed with health food. I think she is selling herself short: Mom has an adventurous appetite and if she comes across something she likes, she’ll make it because she wants to, not because it’s the cool thing to do.

I’d like to think I’m just like her, but the truth is, I’m susceptible to peer pressure. And so when the local foodie told me that I’d missed the boat on cupcakes, I considered returning to the icing tip store and exchanging my purchase for a macaron kit. But I’m not sure there’s such a thing as a macaron kit and besides, the store is 5,000 km away, in Cape Cod.

Also, and this is the important thing: I like cupcakes. I’ll take a cupcake over a macaron any day. I tried macarons last summer in Paris, before I knew they were trendy, and I was not impressed. I still don’t understand what the fuss is about. Yes, macarons are adorable and they certainly liven up a bakery display case, but they look entirely unnatural and they have no discernable flavor.

Macarons, in my opinion, are proof that food trends are no different from trends in clothes, shoes, or vacation spots; there’s no logic to what catches on with the masses. The obvious difference of course, is that you can’t eat shoes, clothes or vacation spots. But you can eat food, and when I eat I want something I can sink my teeth into.

Cupcakes have heft. Macarons are so tiny you have to cram two or three into your mouth to get any taste out of them. Also, they’re even more overpriced than cupcakes, and that’s saying something.

People spend years researching and analyzing the roots of popularity. They devote entire academic conferences to the topic. I don’t think macarons are worth the effort, so here’s my thumbnail assessment: they’re popular because they’re French.

Remember that book that came out a few years ago, French Women Don’t Get Fat? French women don’t get fat because they’re eating microscopic cookies concocted from egg whites. The sequel to that book ought to be called Why French Women Look So Miserable. It’s because they think that a microscopic cookie concocted from egg whites (and food coloring) qualifies as a dessert.

I actually did conduct some research for this column, and so I can report that the next trend in food is anything healthy: local, organic, raw, vegan. Egg whites are healthy. Food coloring isn’t, but nobody’s going to flock to the store to pay top dollar for a bland-looking confection. Macarons will fool some people into thinking they’re eating a healthy dessert. Not me. I’ll take a cupcake, thank you very much. And I’ll make my own, because I have the icing tips.

Debby Waldman is an Edmonton writer and cupcake snob.

Her latest book is Clever Rachel (Orca).

The Tomato | September October 2010 17

Visit Citrus at the Downtown Farmers Market for the extraordinary torta made with lusciously fresh basil.

Pick up our compound butters, salsas, dips and spreads, all made fresh with herbs and vegetables from fellow vendors, and all designed to make entertaining easy.

780-431-1802

wine maven

| mary bailey

End of the summer whites There’s lots of time yet for the deep reds of fall and winter. Let us enjoy a glass or two of fragrant white while we can, on the patio or on a picnic.

2008 Villa Maria Cellar Selection Sauvignon Blanc 2009 (Marlborough, N.Z.) Villa Maria’s flagship shows all the flavours we expect from kiwi Sauv Blanc; zesty tropical notes of guava and passion fruit, gooseberry, lime, and pink grapefruit. Have with grilled sablefish and mango salsa. $25

2009 Road 13 Honest John’s White (Okanagan Valley) Mostly Riesling, blended with several Okanagan aromatic grape varieties to keep us guessing. A little bit of spice and a lot of honeyed fruit with a nice solid backbone of acidity adds up to a tasty package. Have a glass with grilled spot prawns. $18

2007 Mission Hill Select Lot Collection Sauvignon Blanc Semillon (Okanagan Valley) It’s hard to beat this impeccably made white— elegant, beautiful weight in the mouth, with compelling citrus, herb and melon notes in the flavour. Great with simple roast chicken. Hide this away for a year or two to allow the nuances of the Semillon particularly to show its stuff. $25.

Tenuta Santa Anna Traminer (Veneto, Italy) More fruity, less spicy, with enough tangy flavour to work with most Asian dishes, plus a hint of sparkle keeps things fresh and bright. This class act from northern Italy is worth searching out. $20.

Telmo Rodriguez Basa (Rueda, Spain) Fresh, appealing and a great example of the whites coming out of Spain these days, especially from producers like Telmo.

Mostly Verdeho blended with Viura and Sauv Blanc-there it is again—just what the doctor ordered with calamari. Dry, medium-bodied with a nice shot of dusty mineral underlying pretty stone fruit. $20.

Find at better wine shops.

18 September October 2010 | The Tomato

event calendar september 1 to 30

friday, october 22

Sorrentino's 16th Annual Mushroom Harvest sorrentinos.com

Tour of Scotland Tasting Fine Wines

by Liquor Select liquorselect.com

sunday, september 12

Wednesday October 27

Mushroom Walk & Dinner sorrentinos.com

Fiorenzo Dagliani, Beni di Batasiolo Tasting, Vines of Riverbend, liquorstoresgp.ca

saturday, september 18 Annual Beer Festival Fine Wines by Liquor Select, liquorselect.com

mark your calendars monday november 4

thursday, september 23

Ronnie Cox, Director of The Glenrothes

Meal’s on Wheels fundraiser Grape Escape: Uncorking California, mealsonwheelsedmonton.org

friday, november 5

sunday, september 26

Rocky Mountain Industry and Trade Tasting rockymountainwine.com

Dairy Farm Field Trip slowfoodedmonton.ca

november 5 to 6

tuesday, september 28

The Rocky Mountain Wine & Food Festival, rockymountainwine.com

The Edmonton Epicurean Society wine dinner, Normand’s. epicurean@shaw.ca

sunday, november 7 Sorrentino’s Truffle & Wine Dinner

tuesday october 5 Thomas Perrin Vertical Tasting, DeVine Wines, devinewines.ca

wednesdays, october 6 to december 15 Wine & Sprit Education Trust (WSET) Advanced (Part One) winecollege.ca

wednesday october 20 Glenmorangie VIP tasting at Drams and Draughts, Winspear Centre, winspearcentre.com

mondays, november 15 to december 13 Wine & Sprit Education Trust (WSET) Foundation in Wine & Wine Service, winecollege.ca.

sunday, november 28 Slow Food Edmonton Annual Holiday Pot Luck Brunch slowfoodedmonton.ca

friday, december 10 Terre Madre Day

january 2011 French Wine School marybee@shaw.ca

The Tomato | September October 2010 19

the proust culinary questionnaire

| mary bailey

Patrick and Doris Saurette, The Marc In the late nineteenth century, French novelist Marcel Proust participated in an exercise, which could be thought of as the Facebook of its era—he answered a questionnaire about himself in a friend’s Confession Album.

Hometown?

Edmonton

Proust’s answers have been published, in one form or another, for more than a century. Many have used the questionnaire for their own devices, the most notable being Vanity Fair’s Proust Questionnaire featuring celebrities. The Tomato now gives it a culinary twist.

Where would you like to live?

Right here (or Montreal or Vancouver).

The closing of Il Portico Ristorante a few years ago left a big hole in Edmonton’s dining scene. Where to go before the movie?

Where to drink some nice Italian wine with those tasty radicchio-wrapped bocconcini with wild cherry things? Where to watch various politicians getting happy-faced?

The popularity of the restaurant was due in no small part to the impeccably warmhearted and skillful hospitality of general manager Patrick Saurette.

This fall, Patrick and his wife Doris are opening a new restaurant downtown called the Marc. “We plan to redefine French food in Edmonton, something modern—think of Montreal dining—reinvented classics but not intimidating. Mid-priced, lunch in $13 range; appetizers $9-$12; mains, low to mid $20s.”

The look? Comfortable, polished, stylish with rich espresso-coloured banquettes, a marble-clad bar, and welcoming communal table.

The Marc Restaurant 9940 106 Street, main floor Sterling Place (formerly occupied

by Krua Wilai Thai Restaurant).

Opening late September/early October. Monday to Friday, Lunch 11-2; Dinner Monday to Saturday, 5-10. Closed Sundays. Parking: meters and several surface lots nearby.

20 September October 2010 | The Tomato

Years in hospitality?

25 each

Your favourite food and drink?

Patrick: Gewürztraminer and roast chicken Doris: Pinot Noir and soup

What would you be doing if you weren’t opening the Marc?

Running a skateboard shop in a small resort town… or a pizzeria.

What do you most appreciate in your friends?

Honesty Your favourite qualities in a dish?

Seasoning A cook?

Organization, punctuality A wine?

Fruit

Who would be at your dream dinner table (dead or alive)?

Samuel Clemens (Mark Twain), Jann Arden, Peter Gzowski

NEW! www.originalfare.com

Who would cook?

Martin Picard (Au Pied au Cochon, Montreal) Which words or phrases do you most overuse?

Stay warm.

Current culinary obsession/ exploration?

Working with humble cuts and making sure the trades show up.

Meaningful/crazy cooking/ dining experience?

Fishing on the west coast with my son and brother-in-law, filleting salmon, and cooking seafood on the beach, stuffing our faces with crab and spot prawns.

Most extraordinary (hospitality) thing that ever happened to you?

The 1993 World Figure Skating Championships during which Il Portico became home to so many judges and fans. The ah ha moment was when Kristi Yamaguchi walked in the room after winning the world championship. The entire room leapt (really, leapt) to give her a standing ovation. It was a magical moment and a great ending to an incredible week.

Philosophy?

To welcome our customers as if they are in our own home—sounds hokey, but that’s it. And, stay warm.

VISIT THE NEW ORIGINAL FARE WEBSITE FOR:

Updated promotions and event information Pick up a new Original Fare billstuffer for new listings of Original Fare restaurants.

STREAMLINED GIFT CARD PURCHASING Now you can buy in Canadian dollars and use your credit card!

GOT A LIVE ORIGINAL VIP CARD? We will be redeeming your VIP points for Gift Cards in early spring.

Have you moved? Access your Live Original VIP account online and update your contact information to ensure you receive your rewards.

wondering what a live original vip card is?

Want to earn gift card dollars every time you dine at a participating Original Fare restaurant? Visit our website to find out about the VIP card program and how you can participate.

Looking for news ways to raise funds for your local, not-for-profit organization? The Original Fare program may be for you. Contact jessie@originalfare.com for details.

Mentors?

Peter Johner, Mario Corsi, Claude Buzon Favourite casual cheap and cheerful/afterwork food?

Whatever our daughter left in the refrigerator.

What’s next?

We’re a little tied up with the Marc for the time being.

The Tomato | September October 2010 21

Hungry forMore...

Sip up.

Slurp. Kiss the noodle.

Baby is born!

Japanese ramen & Shanghai noodle dishes

Congratulations! Was the applause for the arrival of the baby or for me surviving labour? Here’s to hoping that I’ll get my old body back. Or is this wishful thinking me just being naïve?

enjoy!

Open daily except public holidays 11 a.m. - 10 p.m.

中華美食 日式拉麵 韓風燒烤

Noodle Maker Restaurant

By Siu To

Gourmet Kitchen • Bridal Registry Custom Window Fashions • Fine Bedding & Bath Area Rugs • Fine Table Linens

9653 102 Ave., Edm.

Crestwood Centre • 9646 142 Street 780.437.4190 • www.bellacasaDCL.com

Specializing in “Kickin Ash Buffalo” locally raised bison dishes.

Lunch and Dinner The warmest place in town.

Diversify Your Palate.

RICE HOWARD WAY

DOWNTOWN

10154 100 STREET EDMONTON

P: 780.757.2005

www.edmontonpubs.com

22 September October 2010 | The Tomato

eating for two

Life as I knew it would never be the same, that’s a given. These were my thoughts after delivery, and I knew that getting to know my little boy and recovering from childbirth was top priority.

Exercise took the back burner, but not for long.

Post-natal fitness? How about post-natal sleep? The most useful advice given to me was to sleep when the baby sleeps. I followed this suggestion as often as possible, though it’s easier said than done.

Because I ran and worked out during my pregnancy, I felt ready and safe to return to fitness. Three weeks after delivery, I was jogging.

I needed to move, even if it was for 15 minutes. The feeling of not being pregnant was liberating.

I knew that fresh air, deeper breathing, and getting the heart pumping would help the recovery process. For the next few weeks I eased back into fitness. Shorter slower jogs and gentle yoga at home were my favorite exercises for my first month post-natal.

Before beginning or returning to an exercise program, most women wait for approval from their doctor at their six-week, post-partum check-up. Even with the official go-ahead, ease slowly into your workouts. Too vigorous off the bat and you risk injury.

Hormones are still flying high, joints still contain relaxin (the hormone that loosens joints), and hips take time to shift back to their original position. Even if you feel well, your body is still far from pre-pregnancy shape.

Don’t Progress Too Quickly After a few weeks of jogging, I rushed into hill repeats resulting in a pulled hamstring. I thought I

was ready since my body felt great.

If I had made a few quick notes on the calendar, identifying my runs and distances, it would have been obvious I was not ready for this type of training.

Take it slow Before you progress, be sure you have spent enough time working at the intensity you are at. Whatever the workout, change only one variable at a time—distance, time, or intensity. Give yourself a few weeks to adjust before you make another change. It helps to log your workouts so make a quick note charting your progress.

Accept what your body has been through and understand it will take time for fitness to return. As always, remember to control your movements; use correct form and technique and monitor range of motion.

You won’t be able to jump right back in to your prebaby fitness schedule and workouts. There’s a lot to choose from in postnatal fitness that will be as rewarding and realistic to do with a babe in tow, though.

At home Pick up a post-natal, or your favorite celebrity’s, workout DVD (choose the appropriate modifications).

Dust off the old dumbbells and clear some space in front of the TV. Outdoor Adventures I made use of nice days and baby’s naptime by hitting the trails close to home with baby in the stroller. It’s a great way to explore your neighbourhood and enjoy some fresh air. Be sure you and baby are dressed for the weather and don’t forget your water.

Group workout Many local gyms offer strollersize and post-natal yoga classes. The camaraderie of other mothers

| krysta forrest, bpe, cpt

who understand the trials and tribulations of getting back in shape, let alone leaving the house with a newborn, was invaluable to me. Whether it was a crying baby, having to feed baby between sets of push-ups, or even forgetting running shoes, we just laughed it off.

Stretching Never forget your stretches. Let’s face it, what with feeding your baby every two hours and the exhaustion, as a new mom, you’re sitting a lot. Joints are still lax from pregnancy, but muscles may begin to tighten. Muscles have the ability to shift the skeletal frame, eventually leaving you with rounded shoulders and a duck waddle if you’re not careful.

Specific areas of concern to new moms would be the chest muscles, front of the hips, and backs of the thighs (pectorals, hip flexors, and hamstrings). Stretch after activity or whenever you feel you need to.

Hold the stretch for 30 seconds, breathe through, relax, and repeat.

Chicken Marbella

Laundry, cleaning, and cooking were not important to me after the baby was born. I am forever grateful for the friends and family that filled our freezer with homemade lasagna and casseroles.

I was especially pleased with this meal—one of my favorites for sure.

1-2 cloves garlic, smashed

Krysta Forrest is a well-trained fitness professional currently on maternity leave.

Adapted from The Silver Palate Cook Book. Economical, easy, and quick.

Freezes beautifully, great cold.

1 lrg pkg

1/8

c

boneless chicken thighs (or equivalent chicken pieces) dried oregano sea salt and freshly-cracked black pepper

½c

red wine vinegar

½c

canola oil

2/3

c

pitted prunes, chopped

¼c

pitted Spanish green olives

¼c

capers with a bit of juice

3

bay leaves

½c

brown sugar

2/3

c

1¼ c

white wine Italian parsley or fresh coriander (cilantro), finely chopped

In a large bowl combine chicken, garlic, oregano, salt and pepper, vinegar, oil, prunes, olives, capers with juice, and bay leaves. Cover and marinate in the refrigerator overnight.

Preheat oven to 350ºF degrees.

Arrange chicken in a single layer in a large, shallow baking pan or roaster and spoon marinade over evenly.

Sprinkle chicken with brown sugar and pour white wine around.

500 bottles of beer

on the wall.

REALLY. We stock 500 brands of beer

seven days a week.

SHERBROOKE

LIQUOR STORE 11819 St. Albert Trail

(east side of traffic circle)

455-4556

ww

Bake for 50 minutes to one hour, basting frequently with pan juices. Chicken is done when the juices run clear when chicken is pierced with a fork.

With a slotted spoon, transfer chicken, prunes, olives, and capers to a serving platter. Moisten with a few spoonfuls of pan juices and sprinkle generously with parsley or cilantro. Pass remaining pan juices in a sauceboat.

To serve cold, cool to room temperature in cooking juices before transferring to a serving platter.

If chicken has been covered and refrigerated, allow it to return to room temperature before serving. Spoon some of the reserved juices over chicken.

MoN

10235 - 124 Street N.W. Edmonton, AB

780.488.7656 www.dahliasbistro.com MoNdAy to FridAy 11AM - 8PM SAturdAy 11AM - 5PM

10235 - 124 Street N.W. Edmonton, AB

780.488.7656 www.dahliasbistro.com MONDAY to FRIDAY 11AM - 8PM SATURDAY 11AM - 5PM

The Tomato | September October 2010 23

kitchen sink

| what’s new and notable

restaurant buzz Let’s hope for some fine fall weather to enjoy the new patio at Moriarty’s Wine Bar (10154 100 Street, 780-757-2005) while enjoying their reinvented cheese platter.

And they really want us to try it; check out wine and cheese Wednesdays—order any bottle of wine and receive the cheese plate for half price. d’lish Meal assembly reopens mid September as a d’Lish Urban Kitchen and Wine Bar (10418 124 Street, 780 4822242), a plush 70 seat wine bar featuring full-service lunch and small plates in the evening. We can’t wait to see the mother of pearl-covered bar. Chef Sebastian Lysz is designing the menu featuring the Kitskoty-based artisan charcuterie company O Sol’ Meatos. Open daily with underground parking.

The Marc (9940 106 Street), the new restaurant by Patrick and Doris Saurette, is scheduled to open mid-September.

More juicy details in the Proust culinary questionnaire, on page 20.

Blue Chair Café, 9624 76 Avenue, 780-989-2861, has a new wine list by Dix Richards, Bin 104, featuring 50 good value wines that work with their menu. Sunday jazz brunches continue, and Sunday nights are family nights with affordable comfort food.

Singer/actor Sheri Somerville will open the Somerville Wine and Cheese Room, focusing on grilled cheese, on 124 Street across from the Duchess, December 1.

Expect 45 seats, open six days a week, late. Good. Jason Somerville-Knish, will be the resident wine guy. It’s her first foray into hospitality, but we love the concept already. Good luck!

Calgary’s River Café’s (river-cafe.com) chef Scott Pohorelic has joined SAIT’s culinary faculty (along with one of our favourite chefs, Michael Allemeier, of Teatro and Mission Hill Winery). Andrew Winfield, who worked with Scott for over eight years at River, becomes the new exec chef.

We have no news yet on two intriguing signs we’ve seen: A Far East Sandwich and the Mandarin Eatery, but will soon.

24 September October 2010 | The Tomato

Enjoy Sorrentino’s 16th Annual Mushroom Harvest, September 1 to 30, featuring the Mushroom Walk & Dinner on Sunday, September 12 at Sorrentino’s West. For the full list of events, details, and reservations visit sorrentinos.com.

Daniel Costa, whose redefinition of pub food at Red Star was fun and tasty, is opening his own joint at 10345 Jasper Avenue mid-October with 30 seats. We love Daniel’s understanding and respect for flavours and ingredients. Joining Daniel as sous chef will be Ben Chalmers (formerly chef at Jack’s Grill).

Check out the Noodle Maker Restaurant (9653 102 Avenue) for a quick and casual meal. We liked the chicken curry, the tasty fried peanuts with nori, and their house speciality New Rou Mein beef brisket braised in five-spice broth with noodles.

Sign up for The Butler Did It’s (101, 10130 105 Street, 780-455-5228) daily email and you’ll know what’s cooking for lunch (the Maui salad and lemon lentil soup are favourites). Eat-in at the casual communal table or takeaway. Pick up’s a treat—browse the well-chosen selection of tabletop items, tchotchkes, and their own Baker and Cooke goodies.

food and wine travel There may still be some room to join Bella Toscana, the U of A Alumni trip that explores the history, culture, and worldfamous cuisine of Tuscany. Enjoy the wine harvest, learn about the mysterious Etruscans, and visit Perugia and Orvieto.

October 19 to 29. alumnitravel@ualberta.ca.

Oyster fans will want to spend the weekend in Tofino, November 18-21, diving into the 14th Annual Clayoquot Oyster Festival. The package includes three nights at the Wickaninnish Inn, $50 per person in Wickaninnish dollars, and the Oyster Gala.

Call AMA Travel 1-866-667-4777.

Mark your calendar for tourmeister Peter Blatmann’s Culinary & Wine Tour of Chile-Argentina, February 14-23, 2011.

Participate in preparing traditional cuisine with award-winning chefs. Discover the secrets of Carmeneres, Cabernets, and modern-style Malbecs from Argentina. For details, visit gourmet-experience.com.

Join the Urban Farmer, Ron Berezan, and Organic Alberta (formerly Going Organic) on a visit to Cuba’s organic farms and urban agriculture projects. Find more information at theurbanfarmer.ca.

cooking classes Saved by the bell pepper! Back to school means Sunterra Market cooking classes are back in session: Tuesday, September 28, One Pan Wonders; Tuesday, October 26, Cucina Italiana. Classes are held at Sunterra Market, Commerce Place (201 10150 Jasper Avenue). Classes begin at 6:30pm, are $49.99 per person, and include a glass of wine, buffet-style dinner, and recipes. To register call 780-426-3791.

product news Cally’s custom Elm Cafe blend of organic black teas from Ceylon, China, Assam, and Tanzania and the MRKT Herbal Zing blend with citrus peels, organic Alberta chamomile and basil are also available at the shop (8608 99 Street, 780-432-3294).

Brad Smoliak Cooks BBQ Rub (350 grams, $6.99) is terrific on Alberta beef, lamb pork, and chicken, but the rub is not just for the barbecue. Use it on roast or for panfired items as well, to develop toothsome flavours. Find it at the Nottingham and Lakeland Sherwood Park Sobeys.

If you haven’t tried the excellent O Sol Meatos charcuterie at The Bothy, Indulgence Ten or from the Good Food Box ordering service, you’re in for a treat.

Come to the farm and taste all the farmmade meats and cheeses during the grand opening at the end of September. Call 780-846-2590 or visit osolmeatos.com for directions to the farm and the confirmed date. We’re partial to their air-dried beef and cardamom salami.

Two fun new organic bagged teas at Cally’s, 8608 99 Street, 780-432-3294, Easy Pleasy Peach & Ginger, black tea with sweet peach and a grate of ginger and Tea Merci Berries & Roses, organic strawberries and a rose petal or two, $10.99.

Try the new Cannar Pomegrante Sauce available at the Italian Centre Shops.

Drizzle over lamb kabobs or korma in pita.

The taste is fruiter and slightly less tangy

than pomegranate molasses. One litre, $10.

CC on Whyte, 780-432-1785, 5040 104a Street now stocks Fauchon, the Paris-based purveyors of wellregarded comestibles such as fruit preserves, cocoa, condiments and chocolates that are a work of art.

We’re eager to try the calissons—a specialty of Aix-en-Provence, made of ground almonds with candied fruit.

Brix Chocolate bills itself as the first chocolate designed to go with wine “specifically blended to enhance the fruity nuances naturally found in wine.” We haven’t tried it yet, but plan to soon with the appropriate wine, of course. Find it at Dansk Gifts, 335 Southgate Shopping Centre, 780-434-4013.

wine tastings hapenings and events Love wine? Want to know and taste more? Looking for practical techniques to help you make the best choices? Wine & Sprit Education Trust (WSET) courses, taught in over 58 countries and considered the gold standard in wine education, resume in October. Course material includes wine service training, fortified and sparkling wines, spirits, terminology, basic viticulture, and how to read a label. Level One (Foundation in Wine & Wine Service) is a practical, entry-level program for those with little or no previous wine background. This level introduces the WSET systematic approach to wine tasting; Mondays, November 15 to December 13.

Level Three Advanced (Part One) runs Wednesdays, October 6 to December 15. Level Two begins January 2011. For more information and to register, call 1-800-667-7288 or visit winecollege.ca.

Meal’s on Wheels fundraiser Grape Escape: Uncorking California, September 23, tix $60, mealsonwheelsedmonton.org, Edmonton BMW, be there!

The Edmonton Epicurean Society hosts eight wine dinners a year, including September 28, 2010 at Normand’s. Visit members. shaw.ca/epicurean/ for society information and dinner details.

Upcoming events at Fine Wines

by Liquor Select: Annual Beer Festival on Saturday, September 18, from 2 to 5pm. Friday, October 22, 7pm, $55, Tour of Scotland with Select’s own whisky fanatic, Big Paul Gifford. Call 780-481-6868 to book. Visit the liquorselect.com, sign up for the e-newsletter, and be invited to their free, invitation-only Staff-Ed Nights.

Sorrentino’s Truffle & Wine Dinner, Sunday, November 7, features guest chef Giuseppe DiGennaro (of CAPO Restaurant and Sorrentino’s by Di Gennaro, Calgary) along with exec chef Sonny Sung for a multi-course truffle dinner paired with wines from the celebrated Tuscan producer Antinori. Details, sorrentinos.com.

Love French wine? Come to French Wine School, an eight-week module for those who sell, collect, or otherwise love French wine early in 2011. Level 1 WSET or Level 2 ISG Sommelier is the prerequisite for this course. For more info, email marybee@shaw.ca.

Join Sebastien Labbe, winemaker at top-notch Chilean producer Carmen, for dinner at LUX Steakhouse + Bar (10150 101 Street, 780-424-0400), September 14. Four courses, $70.

There are some excellent upcoming tastings and events this fall: Impeccable Rhone producer Thomas Perrin at DeVine Wines, October 5; Glenmorangie at Drams and Draughts, Winspear Centre, October 20, and one of our favourite wine people, Fiorenzo Dogliani, of Beni di Batasiolo at Vines of Riverbend, October 27.

Visit tomato.ca for ticket info closer to the dates.

The Rocky Mountain Wine & Food Festival returns November 5 to 6 to the Shaw Conference Centre. Experience Alberta’s largest

collection of wine, spirits, beer, and gourmet cuisine in a fun, social, and relaxed atmosphere. For details visit rockymountainwine.com. The Industry and Trade Tasting Friday, November 5 features the 2010 Wine Access IVWA winners.

New and/or interesting food and drink related news for The Kitchen Sink can be faxed to 780-433-0492.

hail the zuke From page 15

grilled ratatouille This treatment leaves the vegetables in rounds, which is attractive as a side dish, while the smoky flavours of the grill add dimension. Add some soft goat cheese and large croutons and place on greens for a summery main course salad.

1

red onion, sliced in ¼ inch rounds

1

yellow squash, sliced in ¼ inch rounds

1

red bell pepper, sliced in ¼ inch rounds

1

yellow bell pepper, sliced in ¼ inch rounds

1

zucchini, sliced in ¼ inch rounds

1 pkg

(about 2 c) cherry tomatoes

1/3

c

extra virgin olive oil sea salt and freshly cracked pepper

1 clove garlic, finely chopped 2T

finely chopped fresh oregano

¼c

finely chopped Italian parsley

Place all vegetables in a large dish, add oil, garlic, salt and pepper, and toss to coat. Place each vegetable on the grill in batches—from the onion (longest cooking time) to the tomatoes (shortest cooking time)— and cook until marked, about five minutes, turning halfway through.

Remove tomatoes, reserve. Cover grill and cook all remaining vegetables for two minutes, or until almost cooked through. In the meantime, add the reserved fresh herbs to the oil. Transfer all the vegetables back to the bowl and toss in the remaining oil. Taste for seasoning. Serve with lots of fresh parsley and basil tossed over. Enjoy hot or cold.

The Tomato | September October 2010 25

feeding people | colleen ingoldsby Taming Sophia The idea to build a wood-fired oven came about eight years ago from goodness knows where.

It didn’t take long to convince my husband, Vince, that he would be the architect and builder. He is one of those guys who can figure out how to build anything. We made the decision to build a new house and the plans for the oven were in the first landscape design—we planned our yard around the oven.

Wood ovens have been around for thousands of years. There are as many kinds as there are cultures.

We stumbled upon a round dome oven circa 1364 in Avignon, France last May in the Papal Palace that looked very similar to the oven we built. In France, towns built communal ovens for villagers to bake bread, as it was a fire hazard to have an oven in your own thatched roof dwelling. In Pompeii, there are preserved ruins of ovens that hold the stories of bread baking through the ages in the remaining soot on the oven domes.

There are barrel vault designs that hold heat for many days for bread baking, beehive ovens that were used in the American colonies, and banal (communal) ovens found in Quebec to this day. Tandoor ovens from Asia, Adobe ovens from Mexico, and ovens built from oil barrels in Chile all weave a rich tapestry of cooking with wood that crosses geography, time, and cuisine.

26 September October 2010 | The Tomato

It took four years to build.* The first steps were the foundation pad and footings for the walls and oven, which were completed just after grading. Then we built the yard, with all of the patios and planting beds, so that we had a liveable space. The oven was built with plans downloaded from a website out of California called Forno Bravo. They have plans for self built ovens, as well as kits and modular ovens. Vince built the oven by hand using the Pompeii design, which has a large concrete block base, and a round dome made of firebrick and refractory mortar.

The two decisions we needed to make were how big and what style of finishing? We wanted to be able to cook many things at once, and decided on a 42-inch diameter dome finished in decorative plaster.

During the two summers of actual oven construction, we were the talk of the neighbourhood, as our house backs on to a ravine with a walking path. Many walkers could not figure out what we were doing.

Some people asked why we would build an oven. Others thought it was the coolest thing. We still get comments from passersby when we’re out there baking. We can use it all year, but minus 30 and two feet of snow can dampen the spirits to get out there and cook a little.

We named her Sophia, after Sophia Loren who embodies the qualities of curvaceous beauty and temperamental insouciance. Just like our oven.

It was a labour of love to build, and is a labour of love to operate. Just when we think we have the firing and oven temperature all worked out, she gets ideas of her own and goes off on a hissy fit and cooks too fast or too slow. Ah... Sophia!

Our oven makes the best roast chicken ever. We have tried baking our own bagels, baguettes, pain au levain, pizza, and foccacia. We have cooked pork loins, bison striploin, lamb legs, salmon, and Arctic char.

We roast all kinds of potatoes and vegetables. We use it to roast soft fruits for quick desserts served over ice cream or panna cotta. We use a cast iron pan for things like garlic shrimp and a Tuscan grill over coals for spiedini. We have hosted two family reunions cooking all the meals in the oven. We even cooked huevos rancheros in it for breakfast.

We had a pizza party in May. Four pizza aficionados with their many ingredients visited for a discovery session on how their recipes would behave in a wood-fired oven. It was an amazing evening of tasting the many combinations that were prepared with such creativity and care. You could see the gears turning with this group on how to use the fire to make fantastic pizza.

This June, we held a Slow Food event called Wood Fired Solstice.

Thirty-five people attended bringing their own ingredients preparing ingredients in our kitchen and then cooking everything in the oven. Vince stood in front of it all evening, cooking and answering the many questions about how it was built and how it works. Everyone was intrigued. We baked fantastic pizzas, roasted six birds of all descriptions from local farmers, great local potatoes and vegetables, and then capped off the evening with roasted heirloom rhubarb over panna cotta made with Lacombe’s Bleswold yogurt.

We have not fallen out of love with Sophia, yet. We continue to spend whole days and weekends scheming about what to bake and roast. When we move away, we

know that anyone who buys our house will have to want Sophia, too. She’s too big to turn into a planter. *Our oven building took place over a few summers, as we were landscaping and building our front and back yard at the same time. It could be built in three to four weeks, depending on the skill level of the builder and, of course, the weather.

Colleen Ingoldsby is a healthcare professional who believes that food, just like life, tastes better with a few flames under it.

Building Sophia 1 64 50 20 2 4 200 4 1 1 110 3 3 1

concrete pad standard concrete blocks feet rebar x 25 kg bags concrete mix x 50 kg bags Portland cement x 110 litre bags perlite firebricks 2.5 x 4.5 x 9" x 25 kg bags refractory mortar ceramic fibre insulating blanket roll chicken wire standard bricks (various selection) x 8 x 8 flue liners x 25 kg bags mortar chimney cap with spark arrestor

Shot on location in a Prominent Homes Ltd. showhome Dress by Who Cares?

The Tomato | September October 2010 27

oil and vinegar from page 13

must is aged for a minimum of 12 years in barrels of successively smaller sizes of five different woods (including mulberry and chestnut). Essentially it’s a solera system. A small amount is removed from the oldest, smallest cask, which is then refreshed with the vinegar from the next oldest slightly larger one, and so on.

Evaporation, natural enzymes, and temperature changes throughout the year help create the unique mellow-sweet tartness and depth of flavour traditional balsamic is prized for.

The Grape Escape Uncorking California September 23 7 p.m.

Edmonton BMW 7450 Roper Rd

Tickets $60 each.

Call 780-429-2020

Proceeds from the wine tasting & auction will support Edmonton Meals on Wheels.

TM

28 September October 2010 | The Tomato

It’s sold in a unique bottle designed by noted Italian car designer Giugiaro, as well as in a special padded box. There are three categories indicated by coloured neck foil: red, silver, or gold (gold being extravecchio). The group that governs the Modena producers (the consorzio) allows only a fraction of balsamico tradizionale to be released every year. They base the amount on the records of the house. So much in minus so much out equals the amount available in any given year. By doing this, they maintain a standard of quality, restrict supply, and generally keep everybody in line.

It’s rare, precious, thick, and luscious with balanced flavours as complex as good wine. Use sparingly on grilled meat, strawberries, good hard cheeses, or, in the old fashioned way, as a tonic by itself.

Most acetais produce several levels of what’s called condimento.

Davide says this was a category essentially created for the Japanese market, who wanted traditional balsamico but needed more volume at a lower price.

These are the vinegars you’ll see in gorgeous bottles, touting their age, and generally selling for big dollars. Condimento are traditionally made, aged in a minimum of three kinds of wood and made of natural ingredients.

The rest is up to the individual producer. The saavy shopper must rely on their own taste preference and a good merchant.

Other balsamic vinegar products Balsamic Vinegar of Modena (Aceto Balsamico di Modena) Commercial balsamic vinegar, made of cooked grape must, wine vinegar, and colour (called industriale in Italian), is, by far, the largest category. The name is more about the style of product, as it can be made anywhere in Italy. These vinegars are popular (remember the bread dipping craze?) and range in quality and flavour from excellent to nasty. See our recommendations.

Saba (mosto cotto) is a fairly new category, essentially young balsamic —all grape must, no wine vinegar or colouring added. They can be delicious and interesting to cook with, but hard to find.

White Balsamic Vinegar is unaged trebbiano grape must blended with white wine vinegar, ranging from dry to slightly sweet.

Use to finish chicken or fish or in a salad dressing.

Flavoured Balsamic Vinegars (fig, strawberry, citrus flavours) come in small bottles with great labels. They can be delicious and they make excellent gifts.

Balsamic Glazes (vinegar, sugar, stabilizers) are used to drizzle on a plate and provide a contrast in flavour—especially good with creamy desserts such as panna cotta or fruit-based desserts.

Tasting Chart Recommended Balsamic Available at Italian Centre Shop Guiseppe Guisti Balsamic Vinegar of Modena Mellow, with an attractive grapey flavour, slightly sweet. Use for bread dipping with a fruity olive oil, on fruit or ice cream, or with desserts. No colouring added, made in Modena, 250 mL. Castello Estenze Aceto Balsamico di Modena Sharp fruity flavour, full-bodied, a little goes a long way. Use as a bread drizzle, in a marinade, or to deglaze a pan. No colouring added, made in Modena. 500mL.

Golosini Balsamic Vinegar of Modena with Fig Soft, slightly sweet, with a natural fig taste. Use in salad dressings, drizzle over figs and cheese, or on roast pork or chicken. Attractive bottle with a cork stopper, 200mL.

Recommended Oils Available at Italian Centre Shop Partanna (Sicily) This brand of oil comes in several sizes of cans and would find the 500 mL size handy for gift baskets.

There are two Portuguese oils in cans as well which we also recommend for general cooking, 500 mL.

Olivum DOP Terra D’Otranto (Campania) Fresh and wheaty with some flavour complexity. Use with pasta, to drizzle on toast, or with vegetables, 750 mL.

The Tomato’s Annual Award for Exemplary Contribution to Edmonton's Culinary Life

Nominations for the 2010 Frank Award

Franttoi Cutrera Segreto degli Iblei DOP Monti Iblei (Sicily) This mountain oil tastes of herbs, tomato leaf, bitter almond, artichokes with an intense fruity complexity. Use on grilled bread, drizzle into soup, use on salads, or as a dip for raw vegetables, 750mL.

The Tomato’s Frank Award honours the person, place or thing that has most contributed to culinary life in Edmonton in the past year: farmer, rancher, chef, restaurateur, market/grocer, scientist, food or dish.

To nominate your choice for the 2010 Frank Award: Visit the tomato.ca and download the Frank Award Nomination Form

Also recommended: Olivier (France), First Drop (New Zealand), Nefiss Lezizz (Turkey), O Arbequina (Spain).

Write a letter to Frank Award 2010 The Tomato, 9833 84 Avenue Edmonton AB T6E 2G1

Corus (Sardinia) Soft and fairly mild with a hint of bitter green notes, Try this drizzled on cooked vegetables, 750 mL.

LY

TS

AVAILABLE ONLINE

IL

T

Meet more good Edmonton bakers on our web site thetomato.ca

B I R D TI C

KE

UN

Duchess Bake Shop 10720 124 Street, 780-488-4999 Giselle and Garner Beggs opened the Duchess Bake Shop last fall to a steady line up every day, such was the hunger for fine French baking. What she says about their instant popularity: “The community really embraced

15

Queen of Tarts 10129B 104 Street, telephone tba Popular downtown market vendor Queen of Tarts has found a storefront location and will open November 1. “We’ll have all of our top sellers from the market such as chocolate truffle cake, plus more cakes and small things,” says baker/owner Linda Kearney. There will also be a 25-seat café.

SEPTE M BE

Celebrate Alberta’s largest selection of fine wine, premium spirits, import beer & gourmet food

R

from page 10

Liquor Depot presents

us—all the ladies who live in the neighbourhood came from the start.” The art history major loves to bake and has always wanted a bakery. “We went to Tokyo to teach English and save money for our bakery,” she says. “Tokyo is obsessed with French pastry. I’d see something, try it, and then go back to our tiny apartment and try to replicate or improve on it.”

Such as the 200-ish batches of their best-selling signature item, Laduree-style macarons. The quality of product they produce is labour intensive. For example, it takes two people three hours to make five Duchess cakes. “It’s challenging,” Giselle says. “We make everything from scratch every day, five or six people baking all day. But it’s worth it.”

E AR

baking

Nominations close January 31, 2011

EDMONTON GRAND TASTING HALL November 5 - 6 Shaw Conference Centre Friday: 4 - 10 pm | Saturday: 3 - 10 pm

Come taste the winners of the 2010 Wine Access International Value Wine Awards

Myra Maslo photo

New This Year Wine & Spirit Tasting Seminars Industry & Trade Private Industry & Trade session: Friday 3 - 4 pm Minors are not permitted.

For tickets & festival details visit

www.rockymountainwine.com

Colourful—and popular—macarons at The Duchess Bake Shop 10720 124 Street.

The Tomato | September October 2010 29

according to judy

| judy schultz

Slipping sideways Seven years ago I transplanted my first olive tree on a beautiful hill in New Zealand.

Deer, who has several hundred trees in production.

Then I made my agricultural version of the I Had a Dream speech. It involved a grove of silver-green olive trees swaying in the breeze just beyond our north window. Each tree would produce fantastic fruit (said the dream), and within four years we’d bottle our first extra-virgin olive oil.

“Forget the auger,” said Colin. “The holes will be like cement. The roots will grow around each other. Your trees will strangle.”

Guess what? I wrote about it. Big mistake. Now people are asking about my olive oil. What label?

What variety? A respected local food business even asked if they could import some.

This is soooo embarrassing.

Okay, let’s back up a bit. In 2003, the year I planted that first tree, I seriously wanted to grow olives.

My to-do list looked like this: Hire man-with-auger. Get auger-guy to dig 100 holes. Buy 100 olive trees from Roger, local tree guru. Hire local kids to plant trees. Wait four years. Throw big party to harvest olives. Make delicious oil. One hundred trees, 100 bottles, give or take a few.

Pitch small tent by road and sell oil. Ka-ching, ka-ching!

Like all good business types, I prepared for success. Read everything I could find about growing olives in the Southern hemisphere. Collected olive books.

Tasted enough oil to float a canoe, sampled single varietals, sampled blends. Learned to recognize official flavour faults (cooked, burnt, fetid, fusty, musty and so forth). Started visiting commercial groves and asked a zillion questions.

The answers sent my olive dreams sideways.

Award-winning olive growers Lynette and Colin Wilson, who head up the First Drop consortium on the North Island, know a lot about olives. Together we visited the groves of their fellow growers, including Dick Jewell from Red 30 September October 2010 | The Tomato

I whipped out my to-do list. “Hire auger,” I muttered.

So I scratched “Hire man-withauger” off my to-do list and replaced it with “Dig 100 holes. By hand.”

A chef who’s also in the olive business gave me more advice.

“Start small,” she said. “Maybe 1,000 trees.”

I asked how many trees she had in production.

“About 40,000,” she said, stifling a yawn.

I added another zero to the 100 trees on my list: “Dig 1,000 holes.

By hand.”

“You’ll be a busy girl,” mused my husband.

Right. So I got busy and transplanted more olive trees along the lovely hill. Seven more, to be exact. It took all day. It was exhausting. Only 992 trees to go.

“And you’ll be even busier,” said my husband. “All that pruning!”

Meanwhile, these crazy olivestealing birds have moved into the neighbourhood. A raw olive is a hard, bitter berry with a nasty taste, yet these little gluttons can clean off a tree faster than you can say “olive oil.”

“Get out of my olives,” I yelled when they swooped in. “There are grapes just down the road!” (It’s true. Awhitu Winery makes a lovely Sauvignon Blanc. I didn’t mention the nets.)

It’s moot anyway. As you can probably see, I won’t be offering my own olive oil on the international market for awhile.

Proving once more that a little knowledge is a dangerous thing.

Judy is off olives.

She’s thinking of planting canola.

G R AT E F U L L

A table as full as your heart PUC C IN I

La Bohème October 23, 26, 28, 2010 • 7:30pm The Northern Alberta Jubilee Auditorium www.edmontonopera.com • 780-451-8000

Sunterra Market has Thanksgiving offerings to fill your table and those around it. Feast on locally-raised Sunterra Farms Ham and Canadian, grain-fed Belwood Turkey, paired with all the traditional fixings made fresh by Sunterra chefs.

And if cooking the bird for the brood feels like a burden, we’ll cook and carve your turkey for you. We can even deliver it to your door.

May your holiday and heart be full.

Lendrum Shopping Centre 780.434.2610 Commerce Place 780.426.3791 Sunterra Catering 780.426.3807 www.sunterramarket.com

WAITER, THERE’S A DIETITIAN IN MY MENU. Health Check ...now in restaurants!

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Choosing healthy meals in restaurants just got easier with Health Check. Each Health Check menu item must meet nutrient criteria developed by the Heart and Stroke Foundation’s registered dietitians, based on recommendations in Canada’s Food Guide.

Participating restaurants:

Find out more at healthcheck.org

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