The Tomato - January/February 2011 by The Tomato Food and Drink

Formerly City Palate

The flavour of Edmontonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s food scene | January February 2011 | thetomato.ca

Old Strathcona Farmers’ Market

All-Ages Colouring Contest You could name our new mascot! Grand prize is a VIP lunch made with market products, served by the mascot! First, second and third runners-up will receive market gift certificates. Contest closes February 12, 2011.

I think the Mascot should be named: Name:

Old Strathcona Farmers’ Market Open Every Saturday 8 - 3 Free Parking P: 780.439.1844 • 10310-83 Ave Edmonton • www.osfm.ca

Age group:

Child

Adult

Phone number or email address: Submit to: the Info Booth on Saturdays or mail to: OSFM, 10310-83 Ave., Edmonton AB T6E 5C3 All entries become the property of OSFM and none will be returned. OSFM does not sell or redistribute your personal information. Winners will be chosen by OSFM and all decisions are final. Grand prize VIP lunch may be substituted for Gift Basket if no suitable date can be agreed upon.

editor

Contents

Mary Bailey marybee@shaw.ca

Features

publisher BGP Publishing

copy editor Amanda LeNeve

designer Bossanova Communications Inc.

contributing writers Peter Bailey Davin de Kergommeaux Jan Hostyn Judy Schultz Diana Stabel Debby Waldman

illustration/photography Curtis Comeau Photography Margo Klimowicz Gerry Rasmussen To Be In Pictures Amanda Woodward

design and prepress Bossanova Communications Inc.

printer Transcontinental

distribution The Globe and Mail For editorial inquires, information, letters, suggestions or ideas, contact The Tomato at 780-431-1802, fax 780-433-0492, or email marybee@shaw.ca. For advertising information call 780-431-1802.

the tomato is published six times per year: January/February March/April May/June July/August September/October November/December by BGP Publishing 9833 84 Avenue Edmonton, AB T6E 2G1 780-431-1802 Subscriptions are available for $20 per year.

thetomato.ca

6 10 11 12 14 20

Greek Food How to make pita bread in under an hour | Debby Waldman

The Bun One incredible journey | Jan Hostyn

Gold Medal Plates Edmonton 2010

Ragù On the hunt for the definitive Ragù alla Bolognese | Mary Bailey

Homebrew is the New Punk Edmonton’s indy beer scene | Peter Bailey

Down in Chinatown An experience for the thrifty shopper | Mary Bailey

Departments

5 8 16 18 24 26 30

Dish Gastronomic happenings around town

Drink Canadian whisky defined | Davin De Kergommeaux

The Proust Questionnaire Wade Brintnell, The Wine Cellar

Wine Maven Mary Bailey

Kitchen Sink What’s new and notable

Feeding People Coffee in Vienna | Diana Stabel

According to Judy Self Improvment v2011 | Judy Schultz

Cover illustration: Amanda Woodward, woodwarddesign. ca. When she isn't drawing, Amanda can be found knitting scarves, baking a pie or hugging her greyhound, Kayt.

KeepEdmontonOriginal.com Exercise your power as a consumer thoughtfully.

The Tomato | January February 2011 3

Coming soon! Visit our revamped website February 15 Next issue: • Southern Alberta Culinary Adventure • A Cooking Lesson in Piedmont

Now That’s Italian! Bakery • Deli • Produce Specializing in European Products

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• Cook’s Tour

gastronomic happenings around town |

ay laddy, a wee dram for ye?

sensual dining on whyte We’ve become big fans of Origin India (10511 82 Avenue, 780-436-0556) because of the savoury pakoras, ethereal naan bread, and especially the smoked eggplant dish called Baingan Bhartha, fragrant with ginger and herbs. The cooking has a light touch — the curries and dals aren’t heavy with garlic or swimming in oil. We’d venture that this is the most accomplished Indian cuisine in Edmonton.

Ready to nose some ﬁne whisky on Robbie Burn’s day? Call the Kettle Black (12523 102 Avenue, 780-448-2861; 444 Riverbend Square, 780-434-1622) has a style of whisky glass for every budget. The single malt scotch glasses by Trudeau (pictured) are $32.95 per pair; Spiegelau whiskey tumblers, $16.95 per pair; and the Peugeot whiskey glasses, $50.95 per pair.

out damned spot!

make mine cassis Fans of Le Creuset enameled cast iron cookware and stoneware will be thrilled to know that the company has opened their ﬁrst stand-alone Canadian store in Calgary’s Chinook Centre. Find stoneware mugs, kettles, lidded terrines, Dutch ovens and mini casseroles in every colour including cassis and fennel. The bonus: not only are they just a few doors down from the new Phil and Sebastian Coffee Roasters, they offer a Chefs Event Series featuring chefs such as Paul Rogalski of Rouge in their spiffy demonstration kitchen.

Whisky never looked so good.

No more tell-tale red.

scrub away One of the handiest tools in the kitchen is the Scrubby ($3 each). Excellent for scrubbing vegetables, or pots and pans, they are equally useful in other rooms as well. We know one savvy wine gal who keeps one in the bathroom for bufﬁng feet.

dish

Stasia Nawrocki of Dansk (335 Southgate Shopping Centre, 780-434-4013) told us about two fantastic and handy products: Gonzo Wine Out Stain Remover ($12) The manufacturer promises it to be pet, fabric and people safe, and it works on carpets, clothing, upholstery and table linens. The other recommendation reminds me of the episode of Sex and the City in which Carrie takes a paper towel (several paper towels) and dabs away at her pizza slice, until there’s not much left. The Chef’s Favourite Fat Absorbers (10 sheets per package, $11) are somewhat more sophisticated and less messy, yet accomplish the same thing. They remove excess oil, and, we hope, calories, but that doesn’t mean you can order another slice.

everything cheese and chocolate A million-and-one uses.

no such thing as too much chocolate Gail Greenwood of Greenwoods’ Bookshoppe (7925 104 Street, 780-4392005) told us about a series of books called My Cooking Class, ideal for the home cook who wants to improve technique. Chocolate Basics: 80 Recipes Illustrated Step by Step (Fireﬂy $24.95), teaches how to make fondants, mousses and ganache along with brownies, cupcakes and squares. The clearly laid out instructions make working with chocolate a breeze.

Fans of Peter Johner’s delicious Swiss-style chocolates will be thrilled to know they are now available at Everything Cheese (14912 45 Avenue, 780-757-8532) the justopened cheese shop in Terwillegar. The shop specializes in top-notch artisan and farmstead cheeses, such as those from Britain’s Neil’s Yard Dairy. “They ship to all the best cheese shops in the world,” says co-owner Lydia Charalambakis. “They go to the farmstead and family and ﬁnd cheeses such as traditional farm-made Caerphilly.” New in stock: Cornish yarg is a 13th century recipe, a hard cow’s milk cheese that’s wrapped in stinging nettle leaves. “Moist and rich, wonderful lactic ﬂavour, so distinct and so wonderful,” says Lydia.

The chocolate-lover’s guide to nirvana

The Tomato | January February 2011 5

Greek Food Debby Waldman

am an impulse cook. What planning I do is generally based on what I feel like eating, or what I’ve seen in the store, read about in a magazine or watched on a cooking show in the hours leading up to mealtime. Usually this works fairly well. Even though I’m impulsive about throwing everything together, I’m organized about supplies: I always have some kind of protein, and enough staples and spices to make it interesting. The problem with being impulsive, though, is that sometimes I forget when I’ve actually planned a meal. That’s how a leg of lamb that sat in my refrigerator for three days last fall led to my first-ever attempt at making pita bread. Also my second-ever attempt. I’ve now lost track of how many times I’ve made pita, but one thing I know for certain is that I never would have made it in the first place if I were more organized. And that’s a good thing, because homemade pita tastes better than what you can buy, and it’s easier to make than you might think. But first, the history of the lamb. I defrosted it on Wednesday intending to roast it Thursday. On Thursday afternoon I started daydreaming about Ukranian food. By the time I remembered the lamb it was too late: I’d already fried up pyrogies, sausages and onions for dinner. The next day I went exploring and came across a new grocery store in a remote corner of Edmonton. Inside I made an exciting discovery: Opa!, the Greek fast food chain that is becoming ubiquitous

6 January February 2011 | The Tomato

at Alberta shopping centres, sells its magically addictive tzatziki in 250-gram tubs in certain select grocery stores. If you are thinking that I bought the tzatziki to go with the lamb, you are wrong. I am not nearly that organized, or at least, my conscious mind isn’t. On the other hand, my subconscious was apparently in gear, because what goes better with lamb than tzatziki? (My mother-in-law would say, “mint jelly.”) Upon returning home, I realized that not only did I have lamb, I had just about everything for a Greek salad: peppers, red onions, tomatoes, feta cheese and olives. I’d rub the lamb with Greek spices, chop up the salad ingredients, and serve it all with the tzatziki. There was only one problem: we weren’t eating at home on Friday night. That left Saturday, which happened to be Halloween. Who wants to eat a big meal before trick-or-treating? Or, even worse, after? I had no choice, though: I had to use that lamb. If it meant tying my children and their trick-or-treating partners to the table in their costumes, so be it. On Saturday morning I stocked up on cucumbers for the salad at the Strathcona Farmer’s Market. Across from the vegetable vendor is the Happy Camel, a purveyor of Middle Eastern delights including baba ganouj, stuffed grape leaves, a soft cheese called labneh, and several types of hummus. The owner, Sarah Larson, also makes a variety of pillowy soft pita breads. Often I buy her products, but I was in a hurry that morning because I’d parked in a five-minute spot. Also, my

husband was with me and I wanted to prove that I could get in and out of the market in less time than it would take to get a parking ticket. Still, I might have done better to have paid attention to my subconscious yet again, which seemed to be telling me I hadn’t forgotten anything, which meant that I most likely had. At about three in the afternoon, when it was too late to return to the farmer’s market, I realized that the voice had been saying, “If you’re making Greek food, you need pita bread.” I could have driven to the grocery store. I knew that even before my husband pointed out the obvious: the Strathcona Farmer’s Market isn’t Edmonton’s only source of pita bread. But I wanted pillowy soft pita bread, not the hard round discs that had been sitting on the end-caps at the local supermarket bakery for God knows how long. The only way I was going to get pillowy soft pita bread, I decided, was to make it myself. “Just go to the store,” said my husband, whose idea of a home-cooked meal is anything you can buy in the frozen food section and warm up in the microwave. If I were as insecure about my cooking prowess as I am about how I look in a bathing suit, I’d have to buy a bigger freezer. But I love to cook and I’m good at it, so I compromise by buying certain ready-made items, such as oil, flour, butter, and milk, and then combining them into something so tasty that David is too busy chewing to complain about the pots, pans, bowls, and measuring cups I’ve dirtied in the process.

While the kids and their friends were putting the final touches on their costumes, I consulted my cookbooks. The only one with a pita recipe was the aptly named How to Cook Everything. Unfortunately, following the recipe would have meant waiting three hours to go from raw ingredients to edible bread. So much for my argument that it would take less time to make pita than to buy it. I trolled Google until I found a recipe that called for yeast and still took less than an hour. Pita bread is surprisingly simple to make: just dissolve yeast in water and then add flour, salt and a bit of oil. Knead the dough until it’s smooth and slightly sticky and put it in a warm place to rise for a half hour. Then knead it again. My recipe called for me to divide the dough into eight rounds, but I needed more pitas, so I made 12 rounds, then rolled them into circles and let them rise, covered, for 15 minutes. You have to be very, very careful not to burn or even slightly overcook the bread. I made that mistake with the first batch. My daughter, by then dressed as a Rubix Cube, suggested we brush each fresh-from-the-oven round with butter, which worked wonders: the pitas went from being stiff and hard to soft and pliable. They were so pliable, in fact, that my son’s friend, a Cossack, discovered that we could split them open and fill them with the lamb and tzatziki. I’d been worried that the kids would protest about having a formal, sit-down meal before trickor-treating. In the past they’ve been so eager to start collecting candy that I never served anything more complicated than frozen pizza or tuna sandwiches. An actual meal with more than a main dish seemed a waste of effort on a night when sugar takes prominence over anything mildly nutritious. Or at least, it seemed like a waste in the past. There’s something about the smell of fresh-baked bread, especially when it’s coupled with savoury Greek spices, that distracted our costumed kids long enough to enjoy what I now consider one of my most

successful impulse meals ever. In fact, it was so successful I’ve expanded on it: a month later we had guests for dinner, and I served the Opa! tzatziki again, along with lamb, salad, and homemade pita, spanakopita, and baklava. But that’s another story…

pita bread 2c

flour

2¼ t

quick-rising yeast

½t

salt

1¼ c

hot water

1 to ½ c

flour

Combine first four ingredients in a bowl and beat about 1 minute. Mix in remaining flour, using just enough to make a soft dough that is slightly sticky (i.e., don’t overdo it with the flour). Turn out onto a floured board and continue to knead for 5 minutes. Let rise for a half hour, then knead a couple of minutes more and divide into eight to 12 balls. Roll out each ball to about ¼ inch thick. Place on lightly greased cookie sheet sprinkled with corn meal or flour, to prevent sticking. Let rise for 15 to 20 minutes. You can cook the pitas two ways. If you bake them in the oven, preheat to 450°C and put them on a cookie sheet sprinkled with either flour or corn meal. Bake them for two minutes per side, or slightly longer if you’re making bigger (fewer) pitas. My niece prefers to make them on top of the oven in a cast-iron skillet, a trick she learned from Israeli camp counselors one summer. We tried that recently and decided that stove-top pitas taste better. The skillet has to be very, very hot. We sprayed ours with no-stick vegetable spray and turned the pitas after two minutes (or less if it smelled like they were burning).

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Debby Waldman is an Edmonton writer who fantasizes about having someone build her a brick oven so she can make perfect bread — pita and otherwise. Originally published in City Palate Calgary.

The Tomato | January February 2011 7

drink

| davin de kergommeaux

Canadian Whisky, defined Say the word whisky and the ﬁrst thing that springs to mind is single malt. But Canadian whisky, too, is one of the most sought-after spirits in North America. The evidence? Nine Canadian distilleries export a total of more than half a billion dollars worth of whisky each year. And in America, where nearly 85 per cent of all Canadian whisky is consumed, more Canadian whisky is sold than all the single malt and blended Scotch combined. So how did Canada come to have its own style of whisky?

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Early settlers brought tiny stills with them from their European homelands. These settlers were not just the Scots and Irish, as many assume. More commonly, it was the Dutch, German and English immigrants who, rather than let their excess grain go to waste, chose to distill it into whisky to avoid loss and spoilage. Dutch and German settlers were the first to grow rye grain in the rocky soils of just-cleared land, and, before long, Canadian-made whisky had earned the name rye. Anyone who has eaten rye bread knows its fruity spiciness, and it’s these same flavours that define Canadian whisky.

Until recently, mixing malt whiskies together was called

Strident assertions of instant whisky experts aside, the spelling of whisky is not simple. Scotch labels say whisky even though Scottish law calls it whiskey. American distillers usually use whiskey, though several drop the e. In Canada, the no e spelling was almost a matter of total agreement until Hirsch 20 muddied the waters by adding e to its labels. If someone questions your spelling, best to simply roll your eyes and respond: “You don’t spell whisky, you savour it.”

SAturdAy 11AM - 5PM

Scotch can only be made in Scotland and today we know only 780.488.7656 two varieties. Blends comprise www.dahliasbistro.com 90 per cent of the Scotch market; MoNdAy to FridAy 11AM - 8PM SAturdAy 11AM -Johnny 5PM Walker and Chivas Regal are perhaps the best known. But it is single malts — those smoky, 10235 - 124 Street N.W. Edmonton, AB perfumed Islay Bowmores, fruity Speyside Macallans and grassy, 780.488.7656 austere Lowland Auchentoshans www.dahliasbistro.com — that capture the imagination of whisky aficionados. MONDAY to FRIDAY Each single malt is made in a 11AM - 8PM single distillery where the only SATURDAY permitted grain is malted barley. 11AM - 5PM The malts are distilled in onion-

vatting, but according to the Scotch Whisky Association, that practice is now known as blending. It’s a bit confusing because the most typical style of Scotch whisky is called blended Scotch. Traditionally, blended Scotch is a mixture of many strongly flavoured single malts and young, less flavourful grain whisky made primarily from wheat and corn. Younger whiskies are usually less tasty than older ones since most of a whisky’s flavour comes from the oak barrels it matures in. Knowing this, whisky makers use different kinds of barrels to achieve different flavours, then vat (oops! I mean blend) these different whiskies together into single malts or blends. Sometimes, during blending, a few drops of bitter spirit caramel are added. This deepens the colour. To avoid haziness, fatty acids can be removed by chilling the whisky and filtering it. Some traditionalists protest that this changes the flavour, though most experts disagree. Personal choice perhaps? Scotland is not alone in making single malt whisky. Arguably, Japanese single malts, such as Karuizawa and Yamazaki are as good as even the best single malt Scotches. That said, there are still many who have yet to discover one of the world’s finest single malts, Glen Breton, which is made right here in Canada.

And the Scots? Yes, their Scottishstyle whisky was certainly part of 10235 - 124 Street N.W. the early Canadian whisky story, Edmonton, AB 780.488.7656 but their malt whisky soon fell 7:44 AM www.dahliasbistro.com from favour, replaced by spicy rye, which all- the MoNdAybecame to FridAy 11AM 8PM rage.

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8 January February 2011 | The Tomato

shaped copper stills then aged in oak barrels. The single malts that we buy, though, are actually mixtures of malt whisky. They are all from the same distillery, yes, but from many different barrels.

Perhaps the most unique whisky in the world is White Owl from Highwood Distillers in High River. This is the world’s first fully-oak-aged clear whisky. Tasting like rye, but mixing like vodka, White Owl adds a real whisky zing to fruit cocktails.

We tend to associate Canadian whisky with well-established names such as Black Velvet, Crown Royal and Canadian Club. And so we should. Each year in Alberta over 100 tanker trucks laden with Black Velvet whisky leave the Lethbridge distillery, bound for bottling plants in the United States. Like most Canadian whisky, Black Velvet is made by blending a base whisky distilled from corn with rich flavouring whiskies made from corn and rye. Fans of Mad Men, the AMC television series, and HBO’s Boardwalk Empire know Canadian Club well. Bottles of it are highly

visible in episode after episode. Canadian Club had a strong market in the U.S. long even before the likes of Nucky Thomson used it to slake Prohibition-induced thirst. Canadian whisky’s major market has been the United States ever since the American Civil War (18611865) disrupted American whisky distilling — more than 50 years before Prohibition. Crown Royal is another one of North America’s favourite whiskies. Hillary Clinton loves Crown Royal. A blend of up to 50 different whiskies, Crown Royal’s signature is its sour-mash Bourbon flavours. A more robust version called Crown Royal Black is rich in vanilla and spice while retaining the signature Bourbon notes of the original. Officially, it is only available in the U.S., but a few sought after bottles of Crown Royal Black have recently been spotted on Alberta liquor store shelves.

The most popular whisky in the world, though, is good ol’ Jack Daniels, a Tennessee Whiskey. But this is really a form of Bourbon which has been distilled then filtered through a long column of sugar-maple charcoal somewhere in Tennessee.

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By law, Bourbon is made from at least 51 per cent — but no more than 80 per cent — corn and aged for at least two years in brand new oak barrels. What gives Bourbon its scrumptious, sweet, vanilla taste are the flavours extracted from this new oak. Yes, the world of whisky is a wide, sometimes wild one, and some of its most interesting specimens are made right here in Canada. Connoisseurs have long known that. Now here’s your opportunity to say that you do, too. Why not taste some and see. International whisky judge Davin de Kergommeaux likes his whisk(e)y neat.

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The Tomato | January February 2011 9

The Bun.

Jan Hostyn

I couldn’t watch.

I just couldn’t. So, like the true coward I am, I didn’t. Instead, before I could witness the inevitable disappointment and confusion hijack the glow of anticipation from my daughter’s eager face, I gingerly placed the sandwich next to her waiting glass of milk, did an abrupt half-turn and scurried out of the room. Before my feet had even managed to flee around the first corner, though, I heard it: the dreaded “Mom…” I knew it. I should have just tossed the darn thing out when I had the chance. But when I dug it out of the freezer — the furthest, iciest corner of the freezer, I might add — and plunked it primly in the middle of that old, green-ringed dinner plate, it looked okay. Pillowy, with a lovely golden hue, it actually looked more than okay. And, since this was the thing that had wrestled control of the latest manifestation of my daughter’s everchanging taste buds, I figured it was worth a try. My heart did, anyway. My brain, the one so often relegated to spectator status whenever my kids are involved, knew okay just wasn’t going to happen. This thing had a history far too complex for a mere morsel of food. The big blue eyes staring expectantly at me from across the room foolishly spurred me into action, though. I picked up my serrated knife, took a deep breath... and attacked. You see, I was making a sandwich and that thing, the one triggering so much angst, was a once-lovely ciabatta bun. Once, many, many months and many, many adventures ago. Now, well, not-quite-solovely might be a more apt description. It started its prolonged life on the heavenly island of Kaua’i, amidst tropical breezes, swaying palm trees and the most gorgeous sunny weather ever. We found it — and

10 January February 2011 | The Tomato

eleven other friends — in a humungous Costco-sized bag inside, yup, you guessed it, the Kaua’i Costco. So, really, these particular buns were never exactly stellar, having been birthed inside an industrialsized oven in an industrial-sized kitchen and all. But, compared to most of the other bread-like impostors we had run into during our vacation, they seemed pretty darn good. And so began the bun’s adventure: into the shopping cart, through the checkout, into the back of our stifling hot truck, down the road for a 15-minute journey back to the condo, up four flights of stairs — elevators are not my friends — and, finally, into the cavernously empty and waiting freezer.

Each day select buns were singled out, defrosted and then devoured: during a brief boogie boarding break at the beach, or while relaxing by the pool, or en route to our next adventure. And, during the process, they became, to my daughter, the best buns ever (the sun, the surf, the sand, the lazy days, the lack of school could have had something to do with it, too). They became such impossibly good buns that a few even had to make the journey home with us. Funny thing: they just wouldn’t take no for an answer. A privileged few were singled out to remain securely stashed in the freezer and there they sat, patiently awaiting their next adventure: the plane ride back to snowy Edmonton. That journey alone would have been enough to tax the quality of the buns but no, these lucky buns had even more to look forward to. Thanks to an unexpected little tsunami threat, these buns were treated to a pre-trip jaunt, kind of like a trial run. Yup, bright and early one Saturday morning we had to evacuate our condo due to an impending tsunami. Three

days worth of essentials — including the coveted buns, of course — made their way down the stairs, into the truck and up the hill to the designated emergency shelter. Thankfully, the tsunami turned out to be nothing more than a little swell and so, six hours later, there we were, lugging all our stuff — including the buns — back up the stairs. Nicely defrosted by this time, the buns went back into the freezer, only to be pulled out again the very next morning to be stuffed into a suitcase. Off to the airport they went, where they were treated to a place of honour in the bowels of a lumbering Boeing 737. After a six-hour jaunt across the Pacific, four more hours lounging around the Seattle airport, another quick hour-and-a-half flight to Edmonton and a half-hour car ride from the airport, our family — including the new additions — was home. Finally, a hop, skip and jump down the stairs and into the freezer. Whew. Over 15 hours and 5000 kilometres later, the buns were safely home. So, after being frozen, defrosted, frozen, defrosted again and then frozen once more, well, little wonder I had less than a smidgen of faith in the buns. Oh, and this particular bun, the one in the suspect sandwich — well, the poor thing had kind of been forgotten and had languished in our freezer for months, months, after it was so lovingly placed there. Given that history, I braced for the worst as I turned towards the “Mom” that was launched in my direction. “Mom, this is the best sandwich ever.” Go figure. If only I could get her to form the same kind of emotional attachment to the dreaded broccoli. Jan Hostyn is an Edmonton writer who thinks everything tastes better in Hawaii.

Edmonton 2010

Gold Medal Plates One thing is true: Edmonton loves Gold Medal Plates — 775 people donated over $200,000 to Own the Podium 2010 at the gala event last year. Though seven of the ten chefs competing were new to the event, it was seasoned veterans who won the medals. We salute all the participants and look forward to watching them compete next year. Want to see Chef Andrew Fung compete among Canada’s best? Come to Kelowna for the Canadian Culinary Competitions (goldmedalplates.com) February 18,19. Three intense culinary competitions, Olympians and fine Canadian wines. Contact Lisa Pasin, 780-448-5957, goldmedalplates@comlinks.ca for package and ticket information. And the winners were ... Gold: Andrew Fung, chef, Blackhawk Golf Club, presented duo of Alberta beef: a plump gyoza of red-wine-braised short rib, caramelized onion, balsamic and foie gras mousse with a veal reduction and tartly refreshing apple purée; along with a miniature bowl of very rare beef, dressed with asiago cheese, olive oil and a tangy ponzu sauce. All paired beautifully with Road 13’s 2008 Jackson Pinot Noir.

Silver: Michael Brown, executive chef, Share, Westin Edmonton, prepared a study in crab complete with poetry — intensely ﬂavourful crab bisque spiked with a hint of jalapeño and scattered with crunchy beetroot crisp; with a spinach crepe wrapped around a coolly delicious salad of Alaskan red king crab, paired with the aromatic Tinhorn Creek 2009 Gewurztraminer.

Bronze: Shane Chartrand, chef, L2 Grill, Fantasyland Hotel created a rich foie grasscented steak tartar roll with a morsel of monkﬁsh at its centre with a crust of dried squid ink. The tangy/sweet orange caramel sauce proved to be a brilliant bridge to the Wayne Gretzky No. 99 Estates 2005 Vidal Icewine — a great match in terms of texture and weight.

Wine and food notes by James Chatto. Photography by Johwanna Alleyne, To Be In Pictures.

The Tomato | January February 2011 11

On the hunt for the definitive

Rag첫 alla Bolognese People come to Bologna to study at the oldest university in Europe, to revisit history, to catch a train to the south. But, mainly they come to Bologna to eat. It is the supreme food town, in a region of Italy, Emilia Romagna, that is chock-a-block with food towns.

Mary Bailey

12 January February 2011 | The Tomato

small shops throughout the medieval core of the city display exquisite pasta — tortellini smaller than your thumb; large tortelloni as big as a child’s fist; various sizes of tagliatelle — all with their own name; curly shapes, straight shapes, nests; all a rich yellow due to their high egg content. This is the land of egg pasta (pasta all’uovo) — the more eggs, the richer and more delicious the pasta. It is also the land of cow’s milk cheeses. Cheese shops feature several types of ricotta under glass, along with soft cheeses, firm cheeses, parmigiana, gorgonzola. Chicken and fowl, pork, beef, horse meat and charcuterie are arranged in window displays in shops dedicated to each. Three fish shops in a row shine with silvery fish, as a guy with a cigarette firmly clenched in his teeth muscles a container of ice over the pristine array. Verdura (vegetables) glisten under the lights; peppers; green, red and black celery; cauliflower; gigantic leeks; tiny bundles of fiery chiles that look like wedding bouquets; kits of ready-chopped vegetables for minestrone and bunches of herbs. Every few steps and down intriguing alleys are ristorantes, cafés, trattorias, bars, places for a stand-up coffee in the morning, a caffè corretto before noon, a proper lunch, an aperitivo after work, then dinner. It is a town of many specialties, the delicate tortellini, and the robust Ragù alla Bolognese. Until my first visit to Bologna, I had not really given the namesake sauce much thought, having experienced too many soupy, spicy, garlicy, more tomato than meat versions. I assumed it was one of

those national dishes trotted out for visitors such as the Brits, who have coined the term spagbol for anything resembling pasta and meat sauce. I was wrong. Ragù alla Bolognese is alive and well and the subject of much discussion. We found Ragù alla Bolognese on every menu and the half dozen or so I tried were, if slightly different, all savoury, rich and tasty. Historically, ragù was a good way to use up cuts of meat from retired dairy cattle — something thrifty country cooks have been good at for millennia, turning tough pieces of meat into something absolutely delicious. There are variations of course. Some cooks may use game or pork, add chicken livers, or milk, peeled and chopped tomatoes, or nutmeg. The one constant is the use of equal amounts of celery, carrots and onion chopped fine to build the flavour base, along with slow cooking and lots of fat — all essential to the method and the final flavours of the dish. There’s no way around it, Ragù alla Bolognese is a hefty dish. Even in Bologna the portion size is fairly small — a bit of thick ragù crowning tagliatelle noodles. Eat it slowly with a glass of good red wine. The question is: how to replicate this at home, with our different cuts of meat and different approaches to cooking? Accompanied by a few recipes: one from a Bolognese ristorante; another, the official recipe of the Accademia Italiana della Cucina; and a third by the Bolognese home cooks, the Simili sisters, I spent a day in the kitchen finding out.

Please see Ragù on page 28

The Tomato | January February 2011 13

There’s a man in Edmonton who dug up his urban backyard and planted a barley field. Another man has a schedule of the beer he’ll brew every three weeks for the next two years. These men are homebrewers.

They walk among us, these homebrewers, and they come bearing homemade beer. But fear not — if, years ago, you were welladvised to run shrieking when offered a bottle of homebrew, today’s homebrewers are making beer as good as commercially brewed beer. Indeed, the line between the talented homebrewer and the capable craft brewer is fluid. After all, it’s not the size of your hydrometer that matters, it’s what you do with it. No one understands this better than Edmonton’s Neil Herbst, founder of Alley Kat Brewing. Before making the leap to commercial brewing Neil was an accomplished homebrewer. Since starting Alley Kat in 1995, Neil has paid it forward, supporting the homebrew community that helped him on his way. Alley Kat hosts meetings of the local homebrewing group, the Edmonton Homebrewers Guild. This delightful idea has been emulated across the Prairies, with former homebrewers hosting their local groups at Calgary’s Wild Rose (brewmaster Dave Neilly), Saskatoon’s Paddock Wood (brewmaster Stephen Cavan) and Winnipeg’s Half Pints (brewmaster Dave Rudge). Please see Homebrew on page 22

Right: a beer lover at a recent Edmonton Homebrewers Guild meeting. (Curtis Comeau Photography)

14 January February 2011 | The Tomato

Homebrew is the new

Punk. Peter Bailey

Henry buys his glasses at Women With Vision ...

... thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s why he gets all the hot chicks!

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The Tomato | January February 2011 15

the proust culinary questionnaire

| mary bailey

Wade Brintnell, The Wine Cellar In the late nineteenth century, French novelist Marcel Proust participated in an exercise, which could be thought of as the Facebook of its era — he answered a questionnaire about himself in a friend’s Confession Album. Proust’s answers have been published, in one form or another, for more than a century. Many have used the questionnaire for their own devices, the most notable being Vanity Fair’s Proust Questionnaire featuring celebrities. The Tomato now gives it a culinary twist. We can thank Hank Gillespie for private wine stores in Alberta. Without his persistence and political savvy we might still be trudging to the vendors. Instead, we are taking advantage of the fabulous selection of wine we now have in the province. Hank sold the Wine Cellar (the first private store, now celebrating 25 years in business) to his youthful partner Wade Brintnell, who began his career at the Wine Cellar in 1989; became a partner in 2006; and purchased the store in 2002. Wade carries on the traditions of the Wine Cellar — well chosen wines from France, USA, Australia and Argentina (among others) stored impeccably. Collectors looking for a first growth or a rare Burgundy stop here first. Hometown? Edmonton. Years around wine? A lifetime. I grew up with a cellar in the house, my grandfather had a cellar, and on Sundays we had wine. Where would you like to live? On a ranch in southern Alberta, on the east slopes of the Rockies. Your favourite food and drink match? At a friend’s 50th birthday party at the Red Ox Inn. I’ve had some great meals with some great wines, but that was extraordinary. We had duck prepared three ways with a 1959 Richebourg Remoissenet, direct from their cellars. It was showing remarkable youth, with a seductive aroma hinting of flower petals, possessing great structure and finish. We designed the menu around the wines, which is always a treat and not something we get to do that often.

16 January February 2011 | The Tomato

What would you be doing if you weren’t selling wine? I couldn’t imagine doing anything else. What do you most appreciate in your friends? Unquestionable loyalty. Your favourite qualities in a wine? The bouquet, especially when you are quite content to just smell the wine — when there seems to be no need to drink it. To enjoy that sensory experience is a rare thrill that takes you to whole other level of wine appreciation. Who would be at your dream dinner table (dead or alive)? Well I’d limit it to five so we could have a single bottle per course. Clint Eastwood, Elvis, Bruce Springsteen, Winston Churchill and me. Which words or phrases do you most overuse? You can’t print them! Current wine obsession/exploration? I’ve been drinking a lot more Burgundy. So many great Bordeaux, aren’t. I’ve been disappointed more often by Bordeaux than by Burgundy. My appreciation for the wines keeps growing. Meaningful/crazy wine experience? October 2005. I was able to taste 1961 Petrus from magnum. That reinforced the idea that, truly, there are legendary wines that stand the test of time and warrant their stature. Philosophy? Drink ‘em while you got ‘em. Life is so uncertain — make every opportunity to enjoy life to the fullest. Mentors? Wine guy and local lawyer Gary Cooper, who helped me develop my culinary appreciation, and the founder and my former partner

in the shop, Hank Gillespie. Current favourite casual cheap and cheerful/Tuesday night wine. Our current house wine is Achaval Ferrar Quimera, a Bordeaux blend from Argentina, not exactly cheap and cheerful. What’s next in wine? The continuing evolution of science and technology. That’s another thing that makes wines like the ’61 Petrus or the ‘47 Cheval Blanc so amazing. Back in those days they were farmers. They threw grapes into a barrel and let it sit. So who knows how some of the more modern wines will evolve? The other thing is that good wine is no longer limited to just Bordeaux and Burgundy. There were only a handful of regions that were producing world-class wine 50 years ago. Now every winegrowing region is capable of producing world-class wines.

Join Edmonton Opera on a cold winter’s night for action, mystique, seductive notes, wonderful arias, great fun and plenty of martinis.

Edmonton Opera – shaken, not stirred.

The Tomato’s Annual Award for Exemplary Contribution to Edmonton's Culinary Life

Nominations for the 2010 Frank Award The Tomato’s Frank Award honours the person, place or thing that has most contributed to culinary life in Edmonton in the past year: farmer, rancher, chef, restaurateur, market/grocer, scientist, food or dish.

To nominate your choice for the 2010 Frank Award: Visit the tomato.ca and download the Frank Award Nomination Form Write a letter to Frank Award 2010 The Tomato, 9833 84 Avenue Edmonton AB T6E 2G1 Nominations close January 31, 2011

Shop where the chefs shop.

278 Cree Road in Sherwood Park • 780.449-.3710 Open Monday to Thursday 10-5 • Friday to Saturday 9-6

The Northern Alberta Jubilee Auditorium www.edmontonopera.com • 780-451-8000

Francis Price & Marguerite Trussler

Diversify Your Palate. RICE HOWARD WAY

DOWNTOWN

10154 100 STREET EDMONTON

P: 780.757.2005

www.edmontonpubs.com

The Tomato | January February 2011 17

wine maven

| mary bailey

Alda Faccioo Camerani visited the Blue Pear Restaurant and Crestwood Wines to introduce the

Professional Wine Education for all Levels Wine and Spirit Education Trust (WSET)

Now offering wine courses in Edmonton. Courses satisfy the needs of the novice through to the professional sommelier. (WSET) Wine and Spirit Education Trust is widely referred to as the “Gold Standard” in global wine education. Register now!

1.800.667.7288 www.winecollege.ca

Adalia wines from the Veneto; a minerally, well-balanced Soave called Singat; zesty Valpolicella Laute; rich-flavoured Valpolicella Superiore Balt Ripasso, and the luscious Amarone Ruvalin. The wines are organically grown on a five hectare site in the Val de Mezzane surrounded by fruit trees and forest. Alda spent a few years in New York before going home to work in the family cellars. When I asked her how she found a roommate, she said: “Craigslist — you can find anything on craigslist.” New York’s loss is the wine world’s gain — the Adalia wines are innovative, well-priced, accessible and very tasty.

Calgary wine writer Shelley Boettcher, on writing the wine book Uncorked! The Deﬁnitive Guide to Alberta’s Best Wines under $25, said “Wine should be about sitting down and having a great time with friends.” The wine choices in the book display thorough research. “I tasted over 1000 wines, tasted at festivals, put out calls for samples — the agents were unbelievably receptive — and I bought some.” Shelley’s picks are readily available. “I want someone to be able to walk into a store in Olds, or Fort McMurray and find something from the book. I work full time, have two small kids, I do most of my wine shopping at the Co-op store 10 minutes from my house. That’s the reality for most people.” The last word on writing a wine book goes to Shelley’s son. When asked if he’d like to be a writer when he grew up, he replied; “Oh no, I just don’t like wine.” Ten per cent of the profits from Uncorked go to an organization set up by Tony Aspler to fundraise through wine: visitgrapesforhumanity.com

Dinner with Gordon Ramsay at the Hardware Grill made for an amazing evening for the staff as well, says exec chef/owner Larry Stewart. “His focus throughout the evening was on the people who won the dinner prize, but he came to the kitchen, shook everybody’s hand and we chatted. We were all star struck — he’s very engaging. I’m still on a high,” said Larry. Wines poured with the opulent menu included 1998 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru in magnum; 2004 Oculus and 1995 Grange, Ramsay’s favourite wine, according to Larry. Meet John Hall of Kittling Ridge at the second annual Edmonton Whisky Festival, January 19, Sutton Place Hotel. Enjoy all things whisky during afternoon master classes and an evening walk-about tasting and silent

18 January February 2011 | The Tomato

auction. Proceeds to the MS Society. Tickets $75, include a commemorative tasting glass and are available from the MS Society, 780-463-1190, and The Bothy, 780-761-1761.

Kudos to Ottawa-based wine writer Natalie MacLean, who won first prize in the 2010 M.F.K. Fisher Awards for Excellence in Culinary Writing sponsored by Les Dames d'Escoffier International. M.F.K. Fisher, described by W.H. Auden as the best prose writer of her time, wrote more than 20 books about food before her death in 1992. The 2010 contest drew 78 entries.

event calendar wed, january 5

thu, february 17

Wine Spirit Education Trust (WSET) Advanced, Section Two winecollege.ca

CocoJava, An evening of Chocolate and Coffee ualberta.ca/alumni/educatedpalate

wed, january 12

fri, february 18

WFCL1 internationalsommelier.com

Winefest 2011 Private Trade Tasting celebratewinefest.com

tue, january 18

fri, sat, february 18,19

Wine, Food and Conversation: Fave Wines of 2010, Crestwood Wines, 780 488-7800

Winefest 2011 celebratewinefest.com org

wed, january 19 Edmonton Whisky Festival MS Society, 780-463-1190

thu, january 20 Wines of Italy Tasting info@sublime-wines.com

fri, january 28 Nugan Estate Tasting info@sublime-wines.com

fri, january 28 Flavours of BCâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Naramata Bench Wine Tasting & Auction Winspear Box Office, 780-428-1414

mark your calendars tue, march 8 California Wine Fair citadeltheatre.com

thu, march 17 WSET Foundation-Level I winecollege.ca

wed, march 23 WFCL internationalsommelier.com

sat, april 30 DIY: Play with Your Food slowfoodedmonton.ca

tue, february 1

april

Scotch Whisky School, Bin104.com

WSET Intermediate-Level II winecollege.ca

thu, february 3 For the Love of Wine kidskottage.org.

tue, february 8 Wine Food and Conversation: Think Pink, Crestwood Wines 780-488-7800

april French Wine School marybee@shaw.ca

june Indulgence, a Canadian epic of food and wine; slowfoodedmonton.ca

The Tomato | January February 2011 19

Down in

Chinatown Mary Bailey

20 January February 2011 | The Tomato

Everybody said ‘When T&T opens, that’s the end of Chinatown.’ It’s been several years since the über-Asian grocery store came to town yet Chinatown still carries on. Not that it hasn’t changed — fewer herb and medicine shops, more video and dvd outlets, fewer Chinese bric-a-brac and more Vietnamese food. One thing that remains the same: Chinatown provides a great experience for the thrifty shopper, making a weekend shopping expedition to Chinatown fun on all levels. A meal can be had for under $10 per person, snacks for even less. The boundary of Edmonton’s Chinatown is elastic. We have what’s called old Chinatown, marked by the lovely ornate Friendship Gate on Harbin Street (102 Avenue) east from 97 Street. Another gate takes us into the more contemporary manifestation of Chinatown, the shops and restaurants of 97 Street. My favourite haunts are found in both parts, plus in the area west of 97, along 105 and 106 Avenue, up to 101 Street. Follow my path through Chinatown or develop your own. You’ll save money and have a mini food/culture/travel experience at the same time.

silky tofu; deep fried tofu; and dofu fa, a sweet custard made from soy beans. Peek around the corner to see a few workers in rubber boots. The plant is spotless. Do keep in mind they are a manufacturer and close early. Barbeque King City, 10606 97 Street There are three barbecue places in a row on this block; King City is my favourite for barbecue duck and roast Chinese pork. They will kindly chop up the duck for you so all you have to do it eat it with a glass of Beaujolais — a great combo. If they have dumplings the day you’re there, buy them and put in the freezer — they are excellent. Noodle Maker, 9653 102 Avenue The welcome is warm, the room eclectic and the flavours robust. Try the Hong Kong-style stinky tofu, or one of the several different types of noodles, or a very good Indian-style chicken curry. There’s something for all tastes here. Spicy Garden Restaurant, 9700 105 Avenue Several years ago, I had an epiphany over deepfried spinach in this restaurant. I usually point at the next table and say ‘what are they having?’ That’s one way to discover toothsome salt and pepper pork chops. Urban China, 10604 101 Street Visit this contemporary-looking restaurant for excellent dim sum, especially the pork dumplings and stuffed shrimp, light and delicious. A friend tried the tripe and pronounced it fantastic.

Kim Tuyet Sandwich, 10645 97 Street Nhon Hoa Sandwich Bar, 9718 106 Avenue The Vietnamese sandwich called Banh Mi is one of those things that shouldn’t work. Yet, somehow, it does. The combo of paté, mayonnaise, daikon radish, pickled carrot, cilantro, fish sauce, and pork, or some sort of variation on the theme, is weirdly delicious. Ting Lung Soya Products, 10512 98 Street Wander down to the south end of 98 street, past the Croation Catholic Church and the Marian Centre, to find a small building on the west side. This is Ting Lung, where they make fresh soy products: deliciously light-tasting soy milk;

Wok King Seafood, 10013 106 Avenue Tasty black pepper chicken and the fresh crab, when it’s on the menu, is worth the spurge. Padmanadi Vegetarian Restaurant 10626 97 Street Everyone’s favourite vegetarian restaurant. Still good, still there. I like the green beans with sesame. Pagolac, 9642 54 Avenue Popular for Vietnamese dishes. Their luscious Vietnamese coffee is top notch. Boualouang Laos & Thai Cuisine 10569 97 Street Tiny place, sweet people, a fun spot to go with friends. Italian Bakery & Deli, 10646 97 Street A fixture in the area. Have coffee and a small sandwich or pick up a dozen amaretti cookies for dessert or snacking. Lucky 97, 10725 97 Street Although Lucky 97 seems to carry more non-Asian brands, you’ll still occasionally see someone at the cashier holding a couple of hens by their necks to take home to make chicken soup. 99 Supermarket, 10788 99 Street This new supermarket is a delight, carrying an extensive selection of housewares and dishes; seasonal vegetables; foods to go; good frozen dumplings made by a Vancouver company and a big selection of Chinese convenience foods, something you don’t see everywhere. United Grocers Supermarket 9516 102 Avenue United Grocers is at the eastern end of old Chinatown. It’s bustling and supremely wellstocked, if you can’t find it here, it probably doesn’t exist. Look up for an excellent selection of woks and bamboo steamers in every size imaginable. Choose your fish from live fish tanks at the back of the store. Look over the teas to find one to fix what ails you. Photos by Natalie Semeniuk, Curtis Comeau Photography

The Tomato | January February 2011 21

Homebrew from page 14

There’s something about Edmonton though. Life is

elsewhere? Nope, we’ll make our own fun thank you — and our beer, too. Homebrewers are paragons of the Edmonton ethic: an unpretentious, down to earth, (dare I say it) get ’er done attitude plus an appreciation of things wellmade, by hand. That Edmonton feeling of community — hey, let’s figure this out together — is strong in the homebrew crowd. The Edmonton spirit was on display at a recent meeting of the Edmonton Homebrewers Guild. Neil Herbst flipped burgers as Yukon Brewing’s Dave Gardner chatted with guild president Owen Kirkaldy. Owen spoke about the guild as a supportive community where “homebrewers come together to share ideas, share knowledge, share beverages and to develop our appreciation of beer as one of the world's great pleasures.” Owen had been a homebrewer on his own for over 10 years, but when he joined the guild his “beers went from okay to outstanding almost overnight.” Holding court by the bar is the man with the barley field for a

Page 22, Top right: barley waits. Top left and middle: 2010 Canadian Brewer of the Year Ray Duperron at work in his garagebrewery. Left: Ray's medals. (Natalie Semeniuk, Curtis Comeau Photography) Page 23: Another Edmonton Homebrewers Guild meeting attendee enjoys the fruit of local labour. (Curtis Comeau Photography)

22 January February 2011 | The Tomato

backyard, Eamonn McKernan (yes, he lives in McKernan!). As we enjoyed some tasty Hefeweizen, Eamonn described the tribulations of being an über beer geek. To get his urban barley field going, he had to import seeds from Florida. As Eamonn chatted on about the nuances of malting barley, we noticed a young man listening in, looking worried, his eyes widening. When we learned he had only just started brewing, Eamonn was quick to assure him it wasn’t necessary to grow, malt and mash one’s own barley to brew a good beer. In fact, it is surprisingly easy to brew good beer, much easier than when I was homebrewing back in the early 90s. Back then, I only had the garbled advice of the kid at the brewing supply store plus Charlie Papazian’s classic 1984 book, The Complete Joy of Home Brewing. Ask around about homebrewing today and you’ll be told, “go see Andrew.” That’s Andrew Stephenson, owner of Winning Wines Plus in Lendrum (aka “The Brew Crew”). A long-time guild member, Andrew will assure you that homebrewing is “bloody easy” and get you started for under a $100. And, no, you don’t need your own barley field. Owen points out Ernie Boffa, calling him “our resident mad scientist,” notorious for over-thetop beers like Bacon Porter. I find Ernie serving a delicious Dunkel at the bar. He shows me a scrap of paper from his back pocket with an ambitious two-year brewing

schedule. It is clear from his list that Ernie is an absolutely fearless brewer. His list runs from yummysounding, like his latest, Reese’s Peanut Butter Chocolate Stout, to Thanksgiving Stuffing Brown Ale (Um, no thanks). A version of his prize-winning Neapolean Neapolitan Stout, made with chocolate, strawberry and vanilla ice cream, was brewed by Alley Kat for Sherbrooke Liquor. I’m astounded to learn Ernie has only been brewing for a year and a half — a brewing prodigy. I head to the back of the room to talk to guild treasurer Ray Duperron. At 62, brewing for over 20 years, Ray has probably seen young turks like Ernie Boffa come and go over the years. But he’s quick with praise for Ernie and fellow homebrewers, a trait shared by everyone I talk to. Homebrewing is a meritocracy, with talent, creativity and hard work generally rewarded. Ray has been rewarded handsomely, winning the inaugural Canadian Brewer of the Year award in 2010. Recently, Ray invited me to his place to see where the magic happens. Ray freely admits he drank crap beer before he met Greg Houston in 1989. Greg had been brewing for years and a few bottles of his homebrew quickly showed Ray the error of his ways. Greg went on to become brewmaster at the late-lamented Strathcona Brewing before moving to Australia. Left without a brew pal, Ray joined the Edmonton guild, found a community of beer folks and hasn’t looked back.

One might assume Ray has mellowed over time, but he notes his favourite style is the fullflavoured IPA. “Why not more?” might describe his brewing philosophy. He remembers wistfully the beer he brewed for an Iron Brewer contest a few years ago. He and brewing partner Patrick Doyle packed their beer with rosemary, including a sprig in each bottle, and named the brew Unforgettable. Winning Brewer of the Year was a testament not only to Ray’s brewing talents, but also to his organizational skills. Growing his own hops, gathering malts from Didsbury, Alix and Armstrong, BC, brewing various styles and carefully shipping them around the country begins to sound like a full-time job. Ray chuckles when he describes brewers that get obsessed with the gear, not the beer, but he does speak lovingly of his new wort chiller. These homebrewers remind me of punk rockers — garage brewers instead of garage bands. Punk had three chords and the truth; homebrew has four ingredients and a brewpot. Tired of bland, boring corporate rock? To hell with it, I’m going to make the music I want myself. That DIY aspect is strong in homebrewing. Tired of boring old macro-lager? Grab a brewkit, talk to the friendly beer guys at the guild and do it yourself. Peter Bailey is an Edmonton-area librarian who is not afraid of your strange brew. Bring it on.

The Tomato | January February 2011 23

kitchen sink

| what’s new and notable

restaurant buzz Check out the latest in the culina family: Culina at the Muttart (9626 96A Street). Enjoy casual offerings, salads, soups and sandwiches from 9am-3pm, Monday to Friday and weekend brunch, 10am-3pm. Meat lovers’ rejoice! Pampa Steakhouse is on track for a Valentine’s Day opening. While you are waiting to try authentic Brazillian churrascaria, view their audition video for David Adjey’s hit show The Opener on youtube. Here’s a fun take on dinner and a movie — 4th & Vine’s Sunday Movie Night. The wine bar and bistro (11358 104 Ave, 780497-7858). Check out the movies and other event info at 4thandvine.ca. The new winter menu at Moriarty’s (10154 100 Street, 780-757-2005) features two new entrees: chicken apple gnocchi and a flank steak pinwheel, just the thing to order on Martini Thursdays. Or enjoy the Dine & Play Menu in conjunction with the Citadel Theatre. Queen of Tarts Bakery and Bistro (10129 104 Street, lower level, 780-421-4410) is now open. Try the soups, tartines, salads and quiches for lunch along with a cup of 49th parallel coffee. The hours are TuesdayWednesday 8:30am-6pm; Thursday-Friday 8:30am-8pm; Saturday 8am-6pm. The second Café de Ville is now open in Sherwood Park, a few doors down from Café Haven (25 Sioux Road, 780-449-4765). Co-owner and exec chef Paul Campbell will be behind the stoves. Tracy Zizek, who started with the restaurant six years ago as pastry chef, became a partner in 2010. Now she’ll assume the exec chef role at the 124 Street location. Remember The Hole in the Wall on 104 Street? It was a good spot for quick meetings and coffee and a sandwich. Its reincarnation, called The Sequel (780-4259210, 10012-102 Avenue) has 24 seats, cash only. Check it out! The Joey’s Group has a new concept called Local Public Eatery in the space formerly occupied by OPM in South Common. Expect a neighbourhood pub-style restaurant.

24 January February 2011 | The Tomato

A reader wrote us about a new venture at La Cité Francophone called Bistro La Persaud (8628 91 Street, 780-758-6636). Event impresario Keith Persaud along with chef Emmanuel David have joined forces in a restaurant venture with flexible catering options for up to 250 people. Visit the website lapersaud.com for an invitation to their grand opening cocktail party on January 26. We can’t wait to see the new look at Madison’s Grill in the Union Bank Inn (10053 Jasper Avenue, 780-401-2222). The restaurant is closed for renovations, re-opening Saturday, January 15. “We needed to replace our hardwood floor — it had been refinished just too many times,” said Shelly Klein, operating partner. “And we needed to change the dining room chairs. We have beautiful European stemware and flatware on order, a new paint story and a stunning quartz-topped table in the vintage room. It’ll be a subtly different look, but vibrant and current.”

wine tasting happenings and events Discover California wines and support the Citadel Theatre. The California Wine Fair rolls into town Tuesday, March 8 at the Shaw Conference Centre. The long running event is a perennial favourite. Purchase tix at 780-425-1820 or citadeltheatre.com. Don’t miss Winefest Edmonton, February 18 and 19 at the Shaw Conference Centre. Try new vintages, rediscover old favorites and sample hundreds of wines from new world and old; ports, bubblies and luscious dessert wines from the world's most celebrated wine regions. A ticket to Winefest includes all wine sampling, tasty nibbles, as well as a complimentary Riedel wine glass to take home. For tix visit celebratewinefest.com, 403-2280777. Earlybird tickets are available until January 14. Get your slow on at a variety of events organized by Slow Food Edmonton: Solstice Party, January 8; Alternate Methods of Distribution Fair, March; DIY: Play with Your Food, Saturday April 30; and Indulgence, a Canadian epic of food and wine in June. Visit slowfoodedmonton.ca for details.

For the Love of Wine: a fundraiser for Kids Kottage Foundation; Thursday, February 3, from 7-10pm, Sutton Place Hotel. Enjoy hundreds of wines with gourmet food including a chocolate buffet. Tix at kidskottage.org. The Edmonton Symphony Orchestra and Winspear Centre present Flavours of BC’s Naramata Bench Wine Tasting & Auction, Friday, January 28. Sample distinctive wines along with delicious hors d’oeuvres, with music by ESO musicians. To purchase tickets, call the Winspear Centre box office: 780-428-1414. Several stellar Naramata Bench wineries will be available for tasting. The Environmental Research and Studies Centre presents the Food Futures Lecture Series: A Look at the Intensive Livestock Industry, January 20, John Robbins; Taking charge of dinner, March 3, Nettie Wiebe and Jessie Radies; The impact of biofuels production on food pricing, April 7, Ujjayant Chakravorty. All lectures are on campus, open to the public with donations accepted at the door; ualberta.ca/ERSC. University of Alberta Alumni Association presents The Educated Palate, food related experiences beginning February 17 with CocoJava An evening with Kerstin’s Chocolates and Transcend Coffee. Further details and to reserve space: ualberta.ca/alumni/educatedpalate. Want to know more about Scotch whisky? Sign up for the Bin 104/The Bothy collaboration Scotch Whisky School, on Tuesdays, February 1, 8 and 15, from 7-9pm. Visit Bin104.com to book. Sublime Wines (104 160 Broadway Blvd, 780-467-9463) offers two good ways to beat the winter dulldrums: Wines of Italy, January 20 and Meet Phil Goodman from Nugan Estate, Australia, January 28. Both tastings start at 7pm. Email info@sublimewines.com to book. Crestwood Fine Wines & Spirits (9658 142 Street, 780-488-7800) next Wine, Food and Conversation night is Tuesday, January 18 and the theme is Fave Wines of 2010. On Tuesday, February 8, Wine Food and Conversation is Think Pink. Call 780-4887800 to book. The new year wine sale runs January 15-31. Expect a great selection of best value finds and bin ends.

product news

Sunterra’s red seal chefs want to teach you a new language of love — a cooking class to create the most romantic Valentine’s Day. The Tuesday, January 25 class is at Sunterra Market’s Commerce Place location, starting at 6:30pm, $49.99 per person; call 780-4263791 to register.

New in stock at Everything Cheese (14912 45 Ave, 780-7578532) aged Mahon, Migneron de Charlevoix, Beaufort and traditionally-made Wensleydale and Caerphilly cheese from Neil’s Yard Dairy. Treats include: Palme D’or Duck foie gras from Quebec (68g $14; 130g $24; torchon, 100g $35); Peter Johner Chocolate; Donna Toffees; and all-natural organic Evelyn’s Crackers. Store hours are Tuesday, Wednesday 10am-6pm; Thursday, Friday 10am7pm; Saturday 10am-5pm; closed Sunday and Monday.

One of our favourite food people, Valerie Lungonja, is starting a new venture called Taste Tripping. Expect cooking classes, tours and trips. Visit Valerie’s blog acanadianfoodie.com for upcoming classes and further details. Seasoned Solutions Loft Cooking offers Cooking Inspired by Sicily, January 22 or 29. Learn to prepare the traditional eggplant dish caponata, rolled beef and spinach polpetone, cauliflower pasta and a delicious almond torte. Learn to create a fabulous dinner for Valentine’s Day during the February 5 or 12 classes. Gail promises that chocolate is a key ingredient for dessert. Email gailhall@shaw.ca to register.

gastronomic travel AMA Travel’s experienced travel product manager, Elaine LeJambe, leads the Flavours of France – Burgundy & Provence Tour, September 10-22. Experience Paris before a relaxing scenic river cruise of the Saône and Rhone rivers. Wine and dine on regional delicacies along the way and top it off with a stay in Nice on the French Riviera. From $5,970 per person, based on two people sharing, not including air. Call AMA Travel 1-866-667-4777. Join Gail Hall on her new Culinary Tour to Chile and Argentina, March 8 to 19. Explore the famed Mendoza wine region; learn to prepare authentic Argentine barbecue; shop at one of the world’s largest markets, the La Vega market in Santiago; engage in a cooking class in Valparaiso; and, of course, learn to tango! Details at seasonedsolutions.ca.

Call the Kettle Black (12523 102 Ave, 780-448-2861; 444 Riverbend Square, 780-434-1622) offers beautiful Romanian hand-blown crystal glasses in two shapes, a champagne flute and a lovely red wine glass with a knot motif. Just in time for Valentine’s, $20.95. We like the home-style baking at Secret Sweets (780-479-3387, 14910 45 Avenue) especially the soft and chewy snickerdoodle cookie redolent of cinnamon and vanilla, the seasonal whoopie pies (the autumn pumpkin was delish) and the large variety of squares. The icing on the cake has to be Secret’s version of a rice krispie treat — house-made marshmallow dipped in creamy toffee, then coated in Rice Krispies. Even better: it comes on a stick. One of these is guaranteed to bring out the kid in everyone. Like to draw outside of the lines? The Old Strathcona Farmers’ Market (OSFM) is having an allages colouring contest to launch their new mascot. Grand prize is a delicious lunch (or OSFM gift basket) made with market products. First, second and third runners-up will receive market gift certificates. Contest closes February 12. Bring your drawing (inside front of this magazine) to the info booth on Saturdays or mail to OSFM, 10310 83 Avenue, Edmonton Alberta, T6E 5C3. Enjoy fresh greenhouse veggies, Irving’s Pork, First Nature Farms, Four Whistle Farm, Sunworks Meats and many other local farmers’ products.

We missed mentioning Sweet Tweet (4345 50 Street, sweettweet. ca) in our gluten free baking article. A reader tells us that this is a good spot for gluten-free products and ready-to-serve. We were sad to see the Mexican bakery in Whitemud Crossing close, but there’s a new Latin bakery nearby called La Monarca, (4119 106 Street, 780-218-9777) featuring Mexican sweets such as pastel tres leches, a deliciously creamy cake, the savoury Venuzuelan empanadas pan de jamon with ham, bacon olives, or El Salvador semita (sweetbread). Owners Ninfa Castellanos and Sergio Manrique consider La Monarca the one-stop-shop for the sweet traditions of central America. Open daily.

Sip up. Slurp. Kiss the noodle. Japanese ramen & Shanghai noodle dishes enjoy! Open daily except public holidays 11 a.m. - 10 p.m.

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cooking classes

Noodle Maker Restaurant By Siu To 9653 102 Ave., Edm.

no preconceptions. New and/or interesting food and drink related news for The Kitchen Sink can be faxed to 780-433-0492.

The best way to enjoy our wines is to allow them the opportunity to entice your senses—you are your best wine critic. The Other Red™ from raspberries. The Barb™ from rhubarb.

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The Tomato | January February 2011 25

feeding people

Celebrating 103 Years!

Coffee in Vienna “Alsoooooo,” murmurs the tuxedo-clad waiter as he presents me with a small, oval silver tray.

The freshest seafood available,

skillfully prepared. 7331 104 Street • Reservations 780.433.0091 Visit billingsgate.com for weekly specials • Catering available

His face is mostly expressionless, but I can see a glimmer of pride on his face, like an artist unveiling a new sculpture. On the tray sits my coffee, an Einspänner, served in a short thermal glass resembling a wine tumbler, and topped with a mountain of fluffy whipped cream with sugar and cinnamon sprinkled on top. Next to it sits a glass of water, with a spoon delicately balanced on the rim. I remain motionless, thinking that I don’t want to ruin this creation in front of me; like everything in Vienna, my coffee looks like a work of art. After a few moments of debate, I reach for the glass. There’s no going back now. It’s love at first sip. So begins my morning at Café Goldegg. Though my waiter couldn’t have been more attentive, I may never see him again. You see, in Vienna, with this order of coffee, I have now bought myself a seat for the day. I had a variety of reasons to visit Vienna, but the main one was to drink coffee, or rather to experience coffee. There is, perhaps, no greater way to get inside Viennese culture than by visiting a coffeehouse. For, in Vienna, it’s as much about the grand Old World charm of the coffeehouse than the coffee itself. When you step inside a Viennese coffeehouse, you are immediately transported to the time of the Habsburgs. The first coffeehouse was opened by Johannes Theodat, the Greek, in 1685, and, notwithstanding the Second World War, have been going strong ever since.

• Extensive malt whisky selection • By-the-glass wine, champagne & sparkling • Cheese, paté, charcuterie & gourmet haggis • Available for private functions

5482 Calgary Trail

780.761.1761

This particular morning, I’m visiting Café Goldegg (appropriate since it’s Easter weekend) before a visit to the nearby Belvedere Palace to view Gustav Klimt’s The Kiss. With its elegant, rounded art-nouveau-inspired light fixtures, rounded marble tables, herringbone parquet flooring, opulent olivegreen velvet upholstery, and mirrors with inlaid wood, perhaps the best

26 January February 2011 | The Tomato

Bothy_8H.indd 1

| diana stabel

10/19/09 9:43:47 AM

word used to describe Café Goldegg is grand. I open the door to be greeted by an enveloping cloud of smoke. First, I must decide where to sit: smoking or non-smoking. The difference between these two sections? A small sign. I think to myself that the effort is appreciated. Then I find myself a seat — somewhere that looks cozy enough to sit for, possibly, the entire day. There aren’t many other customers, but the few present are well-dressed businessmen, all looking terribly important, but, oddly perhaps, not in a rush to leave. There’s no such thing as coffee-to-go here, and not a cell phone or laptop in sight. In fact, they are forbidden. This is not a place to work, but to sit, smoke, and drink in the moment. There is absolutely no pressure to leave. I learn the delicate balance of trying to get the bill. It takes eye contact and a wave of the arm or a whistle — which, being a Canadian, I find rude — otherwise, I would have had to spend the night. You could easily make a Viennese coffeehouse your home away from home. In fact, writer and poet Peter Altenberg had his mail delivered to Café Central. I don’t believe that Starbucks has yet to offer this service. I peruse the section of international newspapers attached on elegant wooden sticks that are neatly scattered along one of the pool tables. Evidently, the pool tables are just for show; I’ve never actually seen anyone play them. I decide to practice my German by picking up a copy of Der Standard, one of Austria’s main newspapers. I return to my seat. Thoughts of visiting the Belvedere Palace fade. Pushing myself through a throng of tourists to get a view of The Kiss can wait. This trip is all about the coffee I tell myself. With a confident arm wave I call over the waiter. “Herr Ober, noch ein Einspänner, bitte.” (Waiter, another einspänner please.) Edmonton-based coffee snob Diana Stabel firmly believes she was born on the wrong continent.

If you visit Vienna, you can’t just visit one coffeehouse. Though they all have their own unique charms, here’s a list of my favourites:

Kleines Café 1st District, Franziskanerplatz 3 Subway stop: Stephensplatz

Café Goldegg 4th District, Argentinierstraße 49 Subway stop: Südtiroler Platz 01-505-9162/www.cafegoldegg.at

This truly tiny café owned by local actor Hanno Poschl is a great spot to people watch. On warm days the seating spills out onto the incredibly charming Franciskaner Platz.

Café Sperl 6th District, Gumpendorfer Straße 11 Subway stop: Museumsquartier 01-586-4158/www.cafesperl.at This coffeehouse seems to epitomize the classic Viennese café and has appeared in more films than any other. There’s also an uncovered cake display to be found. Approach at your own risk! A good choice before or after a visit to the nearby Sunday Naschmarkt ﬂea market. Café Central 1st District, Herrengasse 14 Subway stop: Herrengasse 01-533-37-64-26/www.ferstel.at One of the largest coffeehouses in Vienna, located in Vienna’s oldest district. It’s worth a visit alone to see the Gothic vaulting and beautiful array of cakes. Across the road is the patisserie Café Central Konditerei. Demel 1st District, Kohlmarkt 14 Subway stop: Herrengasse 01-535-1717-1/www.demel.at More known for its dessert than coffee, this 200-year old former imperial bakery has a majestic selection of cakes and biscuits, including a spectacular Sachertorte. No such thing as a cup of Joe here — if you order a simple cup of coffee here, your waiter will bring you a silver tray with your coffee and not just a side of whipped cream, but a plate of whipped cream. You had me at whipped cream Demel, you had me at whipped cream. Café Westend 7th District, Mariahilfer Straße 128 Subway stop: Westbahnhof 01-523-3183 Conveniently located across from the central train station, Westbahnhof, Café Westend is a smoky yet charming haven to kill time while waiting for a train. I enjoyed the traditional breakfast — one hard-boiled egg, sprinkled with salt as you eat, with a fresh bun and jam and butter accompanied by strong coffee and orange juice.

Ahi TunA Club pancetta, tomato, spinach, chipotle, aioli with watermelon-feta salad.

Remember that in Austria, coffee is called Mokka and is similar to espresso but is made with a Viennese roast, a bit more water, and is extracted more slowly, allowing it to oxidize. Brauner: A Viennese staple. Black Mokka served with milk or cream. Can be a double (Großer Brauner) or single (Kleiner Brauner). Schwarzer: Plain, strong, black Mokka. Can be a double (Großer Schwarzer) or single (Kleiner Schwarzer). Einspänner: Mokka usually served in a glass instead of a cup, with a crown of whipped cream on top and usually sprinkled with sugar.

Plain: not our strong suit Lunch served Monday through Friday 11:30 am – 2 pm Dinner served Monday through Saturday from 5 pm

bring a Friend to lunch! Visit hardwaregrill.com, sign up for our newsletter and receive a gift certificate worth $35* towards the cost of your next lunch at hardware grill. *Valid only when two or more people are dining. Not redeemable for cash. Not valid in the month of December.

97 Street & Jasper Avenue | Reservations 780.423.0969 or hardwaregrill.com

Melange: Half Mokka and half hot milk, often topped with milk foam or whipped cream. Can be sweetened with sugar or milk. Franziskaner: Light melange with whipped cream and chocolate ﬂakes. Kaisermelange: Large Mokka without milk, mixed with egg yolk, honey and cognac or brandy. Fiaker: The name is German for the horse and carriage you can take around town. A large Mokka with a shot of rum. This is served in a glass or large cup and may be topped with whipped cream. Kapuziner: Confusing as it’s not a cappuccino. Kleiner Schwarzer with a shot of milk or cream. May be sprinkled with cocoa or cinnamon. Maria Theresia: Named after the Austrian Empress (1740-1780). Black mokka with orange liqueur, whipped cream and sugar. Mariloman: Mokka with Cognac. Mozart: Large Mokka with cherry brandy and whipped cream. Obermeier: Mokka with cream added by pouring it on the back of a coffee spoon.

The Tomato | January February 2011 27

Ragu Continued from page 13

I made three ragù: one with hamburger, one with ground elk and the third from sirloin. The rancher who sent the elk said it was from an eight-year old cow. I thought this might best approximate old school ragù. Each ragù was topped with a generous amount of Parmigiano Reggiano. Following the charming recipe from the Ristorante Clavature, I slowly browned equal amounts of finely chopped onion, celery and carrot for about half an hour, then added the elk and diced pancetta in stages. I cooked this until it had changed colour and was quite dry — about half an hour — then added a glass of red wine and about a third of a can of tomato paste. I cooked this slowly on the stove top for about one hour, tasting every 15 minutes or so. With time, the flavours

the ofﬁcial bolognese ragù According to the Accademia Italiana della Cucina, by 1982 decree 300 g

beef cartella*

150 g

pancetta, dried

50 g

carrot

50 g

celery stalk

50 g

onion

5 spoons

tomato sauce or 20 gr. triple tomato extract

whole milk

½c

white or red wine, dry and not frizzante salt and pepper, to taste

The pancetta, cut into little cubes and chopped with a mezzaluna chopping knife, is melted in a saucepan; the vegetables, once again, well chopped with the mezzaluna, are then added and everything is left to stew softly. Next the beef is added and is left on the stovetop, while being stirred constantly, until it sputters. The wine and the tomato cut with a little broth are added and everything left to simmer for around two hours, adding little by little the milk and adjusting the salt and black pepper. Optional, but advisable, is the addition of the panna

28 January February 2011 | The Tomato

became less individually distinct and more of a whole. The elk had mellowed to a meaty earthiness, perhaps similar to the effect chicken livers would have on the dish. I followed the same method with the skirt steak, dicing it fine (or grind it if you have a grinder), and no bacon — for research purposes; what would it be like without bacon? More salt and oil was needed. I cooked it longer: for two hours. I added milk and a bit of nutmeg near the end. The result was mellower in flavour and equally tasty. I followed the official recipe for the hamburger version. The result was good, but not as good as the other two. The texture was chewier, nor did the sauce have the same rich flavours.

chopping, then lazily cooking the trio of onion, celery and carrot in a generous mixture of olive oil and butter. Mince, then add the meat. Cook it slowly, slowly. Drink the wine you opened for the sauce. Stir the sauce occasionally while you make the pasta. Go for a walk while the sauce simmers gently and the tagliatelle dries. Invite some friends over and sit down to another glass of wine and the best ragù you’ve ever made.

*skirt steak **reduced by half

ristorante clavature’s original recipe for ragù alla bolognese Mario and Allessandro, the owners of Clavature, were kind to send this recipe. They were also kind to gently correct me when I ordered spaghetti alla Bolognese. “Signora, ragù alla Bolognese does not come with spaghetti. It is made with tagliatelle.” (Find out how to make their toothsome yet delicate lasagna on our revamped web site after February 15)

casserole with oil. Mince bacon and beef. Add the meat into the casserole. Cook on a strong fire and mix it until it becomes dry Add red wine (1 glass). Add peeled tomatoes or tomato paste concentrate. Change the fire from strong to light. Continue the cooking. It must cook ¾ hours. Mix it continuously. It'll be ready when you smell the same scent you've appreciated in Bologna. *Scanello is bottom sirloin butt, also called tri tip — lean and flavourful.

tagliatelle al ragù alla bolognese This is the recipe of the Simili sisters, noted Bolognese cooks.

beef, ground (scanello or cartella)

carrots

500 g

peeled tomatoes or 100 gr tomato paste

tomatoes, peeled and pureed

2 spoons

onion, chopped

red wine

2 spoons

celery, chopped

salt and pepper

2 spoons

carrot, chopped

chicken liver, chopped

½c

white wine, dry

celery

80 g

onion

80 g 200 g

Mince at the same time celery, carrot and onion. Put the result in a big

½c

ﬁnely minced carrots

butter

olive oil

1kg

sirloin, or skirt, minced or ground meat.

1 piece

pancetta, approx 2 x 2 inches, chopped ﬁne, or other unsmoked bacon.

tomato paste

Place onion in a large heavy bottomed pot with the oil and butter and allow to sweat for about 5 minutes. Add carrot and celery and slowly cook

500 g

80 g

ﬁnely minced celery

salt and pepper

pancetta or prosciutto di Parma, chopped

bacon (not smoked)

½c

milk

50 g

200 g

ﬁnely minced onion

red wine

butter

beef scanello*

½c

1/3

25 g

1kg

Adapted from Ristorante Clavature

Mary Bailey likes Barbera d’Alba with Ragù alla Bolognese.

My recommendation? Buy an inexpensive cut of meat such as blade, skirt or sirloin butt. Start on a late Sunday morning by

di cottura** of a litre of whole milk at the end of the cooking.

ragù alla bolognese

milk

broth salt, pepper, a hint of nutmeg, 2 spoons oil

Chop the vegetables separately. Chop the pancetta. Prepare the chicken liver. Clean it well. Be sure to remove the slightest trace of green bile, if not, the chicken liver will be very bitter. Don’t chop it, but rather crush it with the blade of a knife, separate the nerve fibres and, once done completely, chop the pieces with a knife alone. This should be carried out with care, if nerve fibres stay attached to the liver, it will not amalgamate well with the other ingredients and its flavour will be too strong. Have the wine within reach. Have the milk close to the stovetop. Place the tomato and broth in a saucepan on a low flame. Place the butter and the oil in the pan, then immediately add the onion. Sauté the onion slowly, stirring continuously. At first, the fats become milky and the aroma very harsh due to the presence of the vegetable effluents of the onion. As soon as this temperament has been absorbed, the fats will once again clarify and the aroma sweeten. At this point, and not a moment before, add the celery and a minute later the carrot. If the three vegetables

for about 20-30 minutes, until the onion is just starting to brown. Add bacon and cook slowly until the fat is rendered and bacon is cooked, but not crispy. Add meat in stages to not crowd the pan. Turn up the heat and cook until the beef loses colour and the mixture is dry. Add wine slowly, allowing evaporation to occur. Add tomato paste and incorporate gently. Turn down heat and cook, stirring occasionally or a minimum of ¾ of an hour. More is good. Add about a cup of milk in two stages in the last half hour or so of cooking. Serve over tagliatelle with a generous amount of grated Parmigiano Reggiano.

tagliatelle*

the well and mix gently until the egg is incorporated. Knead until the dough is well mixed and starting to act like dough. Cover and leave the dough to rest in a cool place for 2 hours. Follow the pasta machine directions for tagliatelle. Dust the work surface with flour and arrange pasta in a traditional nest shape and leave to dry *Buy good quality egg tagliatelle or try making your own.

s t i r i p s r u o Lift y m your and war soul

**Use Tipo 00 flour (sold at the Italian Centre) or plain all-purpose flour. Egg pastas are best made with flours from soft wheat, not hard durum with its higher protein content.

Simply Satisfying 1 kg

pasta flour**

whole fresh eggs

Heartwarming Choices for a cold winter day.

Place the flour on a large surface and make a well in the top. Place eggs in

Our new site is live!

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were sautéed together, the other two would absorb the juice of the onion, the flavour of which is so intense that it would hide the more delicate flavours of the celery and the carrot. As soon as this base is ready, add the pancetta and let it sauté a minute. Now it’s the chicken liver’s turn. Free the centre of the pan by moving all the vegetables to the edge. Chicken liver coagulates immediately and it would cling to any ingredient in its vicinity and impart its flavour to it, which would become too intense. Therefore, place the chicken liver in the middle of the pan alone, continuously flattening and stirring it until it completely changes colour, which shows that it has cooked. Then and only then, bring the vegetables back to the middle of the pan and stir everything together for a moment. And next, the beef — a delicate moment. In order to avoid turning the beef into, for all intents and purposes, broth, a few seconds after having added the other ingredients, proceed in the following manner: bring the flame to the maximum and, after a moment, add a third of the beef by flaking it into the pan; then with a wooden spatula, flattening and turning it over continuously while leaving the bottom of the pan partially uncovered in order that the moisture that forms

will evaporate rather than turn into liquid. As soon as this part of the beef has changed its colour partially, free the middle of the pan again and add, flake and mix another third of GE WINTER 2012 City Palette AD 4.625 x 5.75_V1-A.indd the beef as with the first third and then, once again in the middle, add the last third.

10-12-07 2:00 PM

Once all the beef is sautéed, add a first part of the wine, not by pouring it onto the beef but rather around the edge of the pan because cold ingredients should not be poured upon the bubbling hot beef. This way, when the wine arrives to the beef, it will already be heated. Don’t pour in all the wine in one dose; let it evaporate over two or three doses. The wine will have completely evaporated, not when you see it disappear as liquid from the pan but rather when you can’t detect its aroma any more. At this point add the hot milk in two or three doses and let it be absorbed until it has formed a nice cream. Pepper and salt. Transfer the concoction to a smaller and higher pot in order to avoid it evaporating too quickly while cooking. Add the hot tomato and broth; adjust the flame to hold the ragù at a simmer for around two hours while stirring often.

The Tomato | January February 2011 29

according to judy

| judy schultz

Self Improvement v2011 There’s something about New Year’s resolutions that gives me an appetite for all things illegal, immoral or fattening. Well, most things anyway. I’m just not good at selfimprovement. Fact: whatever resolutions I make on New Year’s Eve, I’ll blow off within months, if not weeks. Still, I try. Here are my top ten attempts at better living, desperately generated just before midnight during the last gasp of the old year. Improve diet by avoiding carbs, fats and empty calories. Yes, but so many of my best moments involve empty calories or butter. Won’t happen. Avoid white foods. Lemme see. That would include most breads, and basmati rice. No more fat homemade noodles with Alfredo sauce, or baked spuds with sour cream. No more lovely runny Brie, or buttered popcorn, or salty pretzels dipped in white chocolate. In fact, no more white chocolate.

Cake Decorating Fun! Wilton Cake Decorating Basics - level 1 Four session course: Tuesday February 1st, 8th, 15th, 22nd from 6:30 to 8:30pm You’ll understand how to bake a great cake, see how to make and color icing and learn the best way to ice the cake. You will also practice the three fundamentals of decorating, enabling you to approach each technique the right way for great results.

Wilton Flowers & Cake Design - Level 2 (level 1 required)

Four session Course: Thursday February 3rd, 10th, 17th, 24th from 6:30 to 8:30pm Your Wilton Method Instructor will teach you to create breathtaking icing flowers such as pansies, lilies and the famous Wilton Rose. Then, you’ll discover the secrets of arranging them in a beautifully balanced cake-top bouquet.

Call us at 780-454-0432 ext.204 to book your space Hendrix Edmonton 147 14515 - 118 Avenue Edmonton, AB T: 780-454-0432 ext.204

30 January February 2011 | The Tomato

Here’s a thought: how about I give up poached halibut and steamed cauliflower? Well, they’re white. Go vegetarian. For so many reasons, I’ve tried. Seriously. I’m an animal lover, and then there’s global warming, so why not? Vegetarianism lasted a record 18 months, until the limpid June evening when the aromatic sizzle of a barbecued smoky came sneaking across the fence. With hot mustard and a crusty bun, who could resist? Not I. Lose 10 pounds. (Okay, 20) Let’s not even go there. Foodlover and obsessive cook that I am, if I added up all the times I’ve already lost 10 pounds (okay, 20), they’d total thousands. This is not a good thing, is it?

Eat oysters anyway. Even though the very thought of biting into an oyster turns me green, I resolved to try again. I live part-time in oyster country, and they’re so healthy, so sexy, so rich in nutrients. So I ate one. Turned green, with splotches. Not a great success. No more maple-walnut ice cream sundaes. That lasted about six weeks. Maple-walnut sundaes are one of my major food groups, being part of the dairy category, along with grilled cheese sandwiches and Snickers Bars. Stop eating while watching television. I admit, I’m a whodunit junkie, and British mysteries are my favourite guilty secret. But Midsomer Murders without Twizzlers? Poirot without popcorn? Yeah, like that’s going to happen. Stop eating while reading. See above. Never eat after 8 o’clock in the evening. But that would mean no dinners in France, where I hope to go when I die. Forget it. Stop smoking. I do consider this to be foodrelated, because of the cigarillos I once kept in my freezer, in case I ever needed to look Euro-cool after dinner. But smoking is one of the few acquired pleasures I’ve never acquired, so now I’ve stopped. (You mean this one doesn’t count? Dang me.) That’s it for 2010. I’ll spend New Year’s Eve on friend Jane’s deck, drinking the local bubbly, listening to vintage Pink Floyd, and waiting for the Fire Force to go tearing past, en route to the annual New Year’s Eve false alarms. Happy New Year from Down Under. May all your resolutions be toothsome. Judy Schultz is a food and travel writer based in Edmonton and Auckland.

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