31 December 2002
All-time Favourite Song ~
T
here was no escape from the dust; on the worst patches, the taxi jerked through opaque storms. The plump youth beside Straun apologized for the state of the roads, but assured him that they were better in Sikkim. At Melli, the border between Sikkim and West Bengal, Straun registered himself as a visiting foreigner at the checkpost. When he returned, there was an extra passenger, a thin woman in a blue jacket, waiting for him to climb in so that she could occupy his window seat. There were now nine people in the jeep: two, besides the driver, in the front seat; four in the second—Straun, the plump youth, a bespectacled man and the woman; and an old man and his grandson in the last. It was a tight fit on the second seat and the four passengers swayed and bounced in cushioned unity on a road which was as uneven here as the one in Bengal. A kilometre out of Melli, Straun disturbed the seat’s compactness. He reached between his feet and fished out an audio cassette from his bag. He tapped the driver on his shoulder with it and said, ‘Nepali song. Please put.’ There is a protocol that governs public travel in taxis, and such an imposition can be considered rude. A recent hit from a Hindi film was playing and it was clearly a favourite of the driver’s. Straun’s co-passengers in the taxi had observed his foreignness: he was European and distinguishable by height, colour and gait. His move caused a ripple of smug expectation; they waited for the driver’s irritation and possible rebuke. But the driver agreed, and the passengers disguised their disappointment. Straun waited for ‘Resham Firiri’, the song that had captivated him. Its melody had occupied his mind so completely that it was now a 3