Cat Island: Diamonds and Rust by Alessandro Sarno

CAT ISLAND Diamonds and Rust I

Conception Island National Park

CAT ISLAND Diamonds and Rust I

Conception Island National Park

PHILAUTIA PUBLISHING New Providence, The Bahamas

CAT ISLAND Diamonds and Rust I

Conception Island National Park

PHILAUTIA PUBLISHING New Providence, The Bahamas

In collaboration with

Columbus on his discovery of the new world New York Public Library

A few years ago I was in New York City and went to the New York Public Library map room to check some old maps of The Bahamas and I found this one from 1881, which showed Christopher Columbus’ itinerary and landfall in 1492. Cat Island was named “San Salvador” up until 1926 when the name was changed.

Foreword “These pages within this book confirm that the imperfections of Cat Island are her mark of impeccable beauty, capturing her unique history, landscape, and people.”

Philip Edward “Brave” Davis, Q.C., M.P.

I am delighted to commend Alessandro Sarno for this latest body

raft, and the raw products that become food; taste the savoury

of work Cat Island: Diamonds and Rust. These pages within this

cuisine that bespeaks a vibrant culture; and smell the ocean and

book confirm that the imperfections of Cat Island are her mark

the mangroves and the bounty of the earth. Every single pho-

of impeccable beauty, capturing her unique history, landscape,

tograph sets stark beauty in time. This is my home! These are

and people. The landscape and people particularly reveal to us

my people! I have the honour of endorsing this body of work

the potential of the place that I call home.

as a true representation of things Cat Island. Make no mistake – Cat Island is not sleeping. She is ready to reclaim her pride of

The photographs awaken the senses. In them, we can see the

place within The Bahamas.

hope in the eyes of children and the most beautiful beaches and tranquil waters; hear the sea breeze wafting through the lush

Thank you for this remarkable account of some of her assets in

greenery and the rhythm and rhyme of the rake ’n’ scrape; touch

the archipelago.

the lines of experience that portend wisdom on the faces of the elders, the architecture of our forebears, the intricate handmade

Preface “Beauty is scattered all over the island. Some is easy to see, some only with eyes alive to warmth, spirit, dreams, dignity, time and tide, diamonds and rust.”

Alessandro Sarno

I believe unpredictability is among the ingredients which make life

For some particular subjects I felt that one or two photos were not

magic. I find it fascinating to look back and connect the dots of

enough, therefore I opted to create some chapters to explore—

my path and observe how all those that seemed to be random

in a deeper and more comprehensive way—those aspects and

turns and episodes, organically unfolded into a conscious artist

characters of Cat Island I love the most, like Frank Ward, Farming,

dimension. The Bahamas and the people of The Bahamas have

Orange Creek, The Hermitage, The Schools, and others.

been the spark of this metamorphosis and the blank canvas of my inner sense for art and beauty. My first self-published book was

Another little innovation, is the possibility the viewer has, by

Cat Island’s Catch da Cat. It was an attempt to collect a curated

scanning a little QR code, to be even more transported into

selection of my photographs of the island and lay them out into

the island life, through videos, sounds, and music for a more

an organized project. I had no experience or knowledge of how

immersive experience. You will also find, as always, some poems

to put together a coffee table book. All I wanted was to show the

by local writers. This is an aspect I really love, giving space to the

beauty of the island to as many people as possible. Today, my

voice of poets and others who express their feelings towards their

journey through The Bahamas continues and takes me back to Cat

island in writing. For me, photographs are the visual expression

Island, where it all started in 2015. This time things are different.

of the photographer’s feelings, encrypted into the image, and

I have more experience and a publisher, a dear friend who believes

sometimes difficult to decipher. To make the reader more part

in my photography and who, most of all, loves The Bahamas as

of the experience, I have written a few short notes, giving more

much as I do. So thanks to Beat and Philautia Publishing, here I

context to some of the images.

am presenting the third book of The Bahamas series: Cat Island— Diamonds and Rust.

A few of the persons I photographed during the years, sadly, are no longer with us, but I wanted them still to be part of the project,

When making the books I like to stay consistent, but I also enjoy

so that, somehow, they could live on in the pages of the book.

creating a slightly different experience for the viewer. You will

A special thought goes to Mrs Shirley Strachan who was the

notice that in Diamonds and Rust. Every book has to have its own

sweetest Bahama Mama I met on the island.

personality, just like the islands themselves. That is my focus and one of the most difficult things to achieve.

Welcome to Cat Island, I hope you enjoy the journey.

Publisher’s Note After publishing two very

During that first visit to Cat Island, a new vision of my own was

well-received books fea-

stirred: a dream merging wellness, international-level hospitality,

turing Alessandro Sarno’s

on-site organically grown fresh foods, and a deep commitment

impressive photography,

to local team building with year-round employment and family

Eleuthera: The Garden

benefits. A sustainable, earth-and-ocean-friendly, plastics-free,

of Freedom and Exumas:

small holistic boutique resort and community called Philautia has

The Kingdom of Blue, I’m

emerged and is planned for development in central Eleuthera.

pleased to present this

www.philautiaeleuthera.com.

third book in a series portraying life within the is-

This book’s captivating images by photographer Alessandro

lands of The Bahamas. Cat island is very special to me. It was the

Sarno attest to his visual artistry as well as the beautiful people

first out island (or family island) I experienced when I made The

and quietly-amazing places on Cat Island that have so fully cap-

Bahamas my home many years ago. Cat Island was also the place

tured his heart for many years. Cat Island has a special energy

where my philanthropic efforts supporting Bahamian youth, art,

and magic about it. Poems by local writers, along with Alessan-

and education programs began. I fondly recall being invited by

dro’s blurbs and photo notes, convey impressions, moments, and

the Minister of Youth, Sports, and Culture at the time, Dr. Danny

dreams throughout the book. Also featured is a special section

Johnson, to the annual Rake and Scrape Festival on Cat Island in

highlighting the neighboring Conception Island National Park—

2014. The “Rhythm & Youth” band, led by music teacher, Nathan-

an exceptional land and sea sanctuary, dazzling with unspoiled

iel J. Adams, performed. The students played with such passion,

beauty. I am very pleased to publish Cat Island: Diamonds and

and I was moved to collaborate with Elaine Pinder of Sapodilla

Rust—a true tribute of affection and respect for the community of

Restaurant in Nassau to help raise $52,000 to send them to NYC,

Cat Island, and all those who hold it dear.

where the talented group was invited to play in the United Nations building and at Vassar College. I also met Sir Sidney Poitier’s daughter, Pamela Poitier, who opened the first outdoor cinema

Beat Schlagenhauf

on East Street (Over the Hill) in Nassau. At the cinema’s opening, she noted that her father (who grew up in Cat Island) often encouraged everyone to “ … start having a dream, a vision … ”. It has been my honor over the years to help support a variety of arts and community endowments for the dreamers and do-ers: the musicians, artists, makers, and innovative thinkers who keep the cultural flame alive in The Bahamas.

A Place to Dream Orange Creek

I am fascinated by libraries and even more by old dismissed ones. I discovered this one in Orange Creek, ventured in, and took a few photographs. Among other old books on the floor, there was a shelf full of a set of A Place to Dream books. My heart wondered about whatever combination of circumstances caused the library to be abandoned, and I thought it would be a perfect picture to describe Cat Island.

Welcome Down Home “In my early life, Cat Island was a mythical place. The gin-clear water, silky sand, and an over-abundance of color: pink bougainvillea, red hibiscus, mango orange, pastel colored shacks roofed in thatch, all strewn along a sun-drenched coastline. The heady scents of jasmine, sour orange, salty air, and warm breezes. What’s not to find enchanting among such beauty?” Tony and Pam Armbrister

When I arrived later, as a young adult, the island became

Being good stewards of the ocean and beaches, Cat Islanders

a friendly challenge. It was a blank sheet upon which I could

appreciate the dichotomy of both worlds, land and sea, as well

design whatever I could dream up. Following in my ancestor’s

as the precariousness of their shared offerings. Rich in history,

footsteps, who were pioneers in their day, I embraced the rocky

Cat Island boasts of having the highest point in The Bahamas,

road ahead too. The island captured my imagination, much

Mt. Alvernia, atop which sits the Hermitage, built by the traveling

like Alessandro’s photographs do in this alluring book. One is

monk, Father Jerome Hawes in the late 1940s. Today, many of the

drawn into the loveliness, the hollowed-out bits, and the parts

churches he built still stand on several islands in The Bahamas.

that ask you to look deeper into the full spectrum of beauty and

It was once thought that Christopher Columbus discovered Cat

Caribbean life. As my life progressed, living on Fernandez Bay

Island, which was originally named San Salvador. However, on a

amongst the changing tides and whispering Casuarina trees, the

clear day from the north end of Cat Island you can see a group

island seduced me. Although a harsh mistress, I grew to love

of cays, referred to on maps as Little San Salvador. According

Cat Island. It is my home. Together, with my wife, Pam, we built

to an old fisherman, long deceased, Manny Larrymore told me,

a unique seaside Hotel on Fernandez Bay and raised a family

“I born and raised on San Salvador, I still live on San Salvador and

here. It has been our happy responsibility to provide economic

the dingy ain’t stray far from the boat.” Who knows? Steeped in

stability for our employees, all the while lucky enough to share

the mystical and whimsical, Cat’s folklore can be quaint, bone-

this little piece of paradise with travelers from all over the globe.

chilling, or mysterious, but no matter; the hopes and challenges

They fall in love with Cat Island’s warmth and hospitality too. The

of out island life continue on. It’s been a great privilege to

people who live here remain resilient in the face of hurricanes,

me and my family to be a part of its ongoing heritage. Thank

friendly to strangers, and also look out for one another. The

you, Alessandro, for keeping Cat Island’s spirit alive with your

community thrives on companionship and love of the sea, where

hauntingly beautiful Diamonds and Rust photographs.

bountiful plates of crab, lobster, fish, and conch are found.

Right Grounded New Bight Following page Painted Wave Atlantic Ocean

Previous page On My Side Smith’s Bay

Early Morning Dip Old Bight

On one of my many trips to Cat Island, I was staying at Rollezz Village Beach Resort, and used to wake before dawn. One particular morning the sea was so incredibly calm that you could see the gentle ripples caused by the lady in the picture. She was going for a dip before getting ready for work. Luckily, I had my camera with me.

On the Porch Devil’s Point

Packing the Cascarilla Barks Devil’s Point

Scan code to watch Mrs Rolle beating the cascarilla barks

I had no idea what she was doing. Inez told me that she was beating the Cascarilla tree barks and preparing them to ship to Nassau, where they would go to Italy as a key ingredient of the famous Campari liqueur. What a great connection Cat Island—Italy. I never liked the Campari before, but since then I have started drinking it!

Above Come With Me Arthur’s Town

I met Grammy a few years ago, she was so funny and kind, a real character. That day, she invited me in her home and told me “come with me”. For some reason, we came to talk about politics and I vividly remember what she told me: “I was born PLP and I am gonna die PLP!”, even if she didn’t spare some harsh critics. Left First Love New Bight

Previous page Tiny Cove Smith’s Bay

Above

Right

Making Beauty Smith’s Bay

Simply Rokki Greenwood

Anderson Williams is a true Cat island artist. He has graced many walls around the island with his colorful paintings, besides painting on canvas and playing local music. Here in the picture is a new mural at the dock in Smith’s Bay.

I have known Rokki for many years. He is such a kind and peaceful soul. His life means music. He has a beautiful daughter named Diamond, who gave me the idea for the title of the book. He mainly entertains visitors at Greenwood and Rollezz resorts.

Scan code to watch Anderson painting

Scan code to listen to Rokki playing

Bahamian Geometry New Bight

Let’s Take a Picture New Bight

“On Cat Island there was a school house. The school house was a multiple, meaning that there was only one room. The children were not more than grade one, two, three, maybe four. I went on some days and other days I went to the farm to work at five years old. Not every day. Certain days I went to the farm, when there were available days for the school I went to the school house.” Sidney Poitier

At School “Dear graduates, today we have come to celebrate with you as you leave this place to pursue a new chapter. You are destined to be a chosen generation, blazing the pathway to excellence.”

Garth Hilbert King Excerpt from Old Bight High School Comencement speech 2021

Dear graduates, today we have come to celebrate with you as you

Ready yourself for years of toil as you make that bold start to

leave this place to pursue a new chapter in your life. According

new reality from the prison cell of a dream. Nothing is for free

to the apt theme you have chosen, you are destined to be

and if success comes too quickly and not at a great price, look

“A chosen generation, blazing the pathway to excellence”.

around quickly and wake up. As you blaze that pathway to excellence, remember the advice of David Brooks who reminds

Graduates, we are asking you to go out into a place which of

us that “success leads to the greatest failure which is arrogance

late has become a strange new world. The world as we used to

and pride”.

know it has changed and you must think likewise from here on in. As you prepare to leave the familiar enclosures of your school

In blazing your trail which we hope to be a positive one for

walls for the last time, you leave with the notion that your

future OBHS graduates to emulate, remember from whence you

innermost dreams now need to become realities. You now need

have come. Remember too, that life is naught but a cycle and

to lay down some firm foundation whether it is in the workplace

in the same way that others have swept the footpath clean for

or another four years in college that the time has now come

you to trod, you in turn must do likewise for others. Be true to

for you to spread your wings and soar. Be reminded that the

yourselves. Remain true to your vision. Cat Island needs you.

pathway to excellence is littered with the skeletons of failures.

Your country needs you and all young Bahamians like you now

Expect failure at some point of your journey and if you do, dust

more than at any other juncture in the history of this land.

yourself off and start again. We are reminded of how Thomas Edison had to fail in one thousand tries before he finally got it

Go forth; blaze your pathway to Glory. Blaze that pathway to

right on the 1001st try in inventing the light bulb.

excellence.

The School by the Sea New Bight

I was fascinated by this little primary school by the sea in New Bight. I thought how special it would be to go to school there. Sadly when I went back this year it was closed and no more in use, with some desks left to weather outside.

In the Classroom Old Bight

It was thanks to Mr Jerome Forbes, principle of the school at the time, that I was able to enter the classrooms and meet some of the kids and their teachers. In the photo on the right, I am showing the teacher a previous little soft cover book I made about Cat Island.

Walking to School Old Bight

School Break Old Bight

We want to be... Arthur’s Town

Summer Swing New Bight

So Fine Was the Morning Old Bight

“So fine was the morning except for a streak of wind here and there that the sea and sky looked all one fabric, as if sails were stuck high up in the sky, or the clouds had dropped down into the sea.” Virginia Woolf

Still Lives Old Bight

In the Evening Old Bight

In Her Sunday Dress Devil’s Point

She lived in a little house in Devil’s Point, at the very end of the Island. I would drive by every day to or from Spirit House, where I was staying. On a Sunday morning she was getting ready for church and I stopped to photograph her. I just loved the scene.

Above Grammy’s Mug Port Howe Right Peeling Beans Old Bight

Mrs Shirley Cove

Shirley and I had such a wonderful connection. I loved listening to her while I was photographing her. She was always welcoming and eventually, after many visits she knew me by name. What struck me the most was her kind and gentle ways, despite the harsh economic realities. One day I recorded her in a video while she was talking about children, sadly I didn’t have a chance to say goodbye to her.

Scan code to listen to Shirley

Thursdays Smith’s Bay

Thursdays in Cat Island mean Mail Boat. It’s the day the supplies arrive from Nassau and life can continue. People also still travel by mail boat when they have to go to New Providence. Every sort of item is shipped in and out, including goats.

Shipwreck Devil’s Point

Around the shores of The Bahamas, sadly, this is a quite common sight. The remains of little sailboats used by immigrants, mainly Haitians, in search of a better life. Some make it, some don’t. These in the pictures are the signs of a recent shipwreck that washed ashore on Devil’s Point Beach. It’s not known if they survived, or who they were.

End of Run Atlantic Shores

A Buoy’s Journey Camperdown Beach

When walking along the beach I always pay attention to the debris washed ashore, who knows, maybe in the hope I discover a treasure. This time, I was with my friend, Julian, and he pointed out a buoy that had a visible sticker on it. He told me that much of the trash comes from Canada, so I was intrigued and decided to follow up and discover a bit more about the buoy.

I found out that it’s called SVP (Surface Velocity Profiler) and it belonged to the Atlantic Oceanographic Meteorological Laboratory, and stopped reporting on February 25th, 2021 when it landed at Camperdown Beach on Cat Island.The map shows the buoy’s travels from July 2020 to February 2021.

Scan code to know more about SVP buoys

CAT ISLAND BUOY DEPARTURE

Beach Art Collection Atlantic Shores

Plastic is just plastic and it’s never good for the environment, however, I find some sort of art and beauty in it. I enjoy photographing it both for its colorful shapes and for the curiosity of the stories behind the plastic trash.

Kite Surfing Greenwood

Scan code to watch beautiful Greenwood Beach

Serene Mornings Rollezz Beach above, Fernandez Bay right

The Sea Behind Mount Alvernia

The Hermitage “That night he borrowed a hurricane lamp and a small blanket and made his way through the bush by starlight, fought his way slowly up over the rocks to the top of Como Hill and lay down to sleep on a narrow ledge of rock only partly sheltered by bushes.”

Built atop Como Hill—the highest peak in The Bahamas at 206

A favorite historical site to visit on Cat Island, the climb up

feet above sea level—rests the Mount Alvernia Hermitage built

the steep rocky hill path leading to the small medieval-style

in the 1940’s by an architect turned Franciscan priest known

monastery includes getting to see the bases of a once-innovative

simply as Father Jerome.

set of Stations of the Cross which were completed in January 1941. Mount Alvernia was Father Jerome’s home for the last ten

Drawing inspiration from the life of St. Francis of Assisi, and

years of his life—a place where he found the solitude of devoted

trained as an architect in England, Father Jerome first visited

prayer and the hermit’s reclusive life of contemplation he sought.

The Bahamas as a young man in 1908, preaching and helping

A cave carved out of limestone near The Hermitage is Father

rebuild six churches in Long Island following a very destructive

Jerome’s final resting place. He died in 1979 in Miami, and was

hurricane. Ready for new missions, and determined to leave his

buried, according to his wishes, in the cave near The Hermitage,

Anglican roots to become a Catholic priest, Father Jerome John

without a coffin, and in his gray Franciscan habit, awaiting the

Hawes left the islands and spent time traveling between New

Resurrection of the Body, and the Life Everlasting.

York, Europe, and Canada before landing in Western Australia. He worked there as a missionary and diocesan architect for 25

Amazing views and a look at the local limestone masonry-

years, building more than 40 churches, missions, chapels, and

vaulted keystone arches and buttressed walls for which Father

homesteads in remote outposts of Western Australia. When it

Jerome was known can be seen from the peak of this craggy hill

was time to retire, he sought quiet and refuge, returning to The

that holds the vestiges of the Mount Alvernia Hermitage. Hiking

Bahamas in 1939 at age 63 to start work on constructing The

up at sunset or sunrise affords an opportunity for spectacular

Hermitage, inspired by the revered sanctuary of Saint Francis in

overviews of Cat Island’s dramatic beauty.

Tuscany, Italy.

Peace Upon Dusk Mount Alvernia

Scan code to watch serene sunset from the top of Mount Alvernia

The short hike to watch the sunset from the rooftop of the Hermitage on Mount Alvernia is enough reason to visit Cat Island. The atmosphere is so serene, almost spiritual. It’s a unique opportunity to reconcile with yourself while enjoying the silence, the breeze, and the 360° view of the island.

Knocking on the silence of Abraham’s bosom Garth Hilbert King

Snuggled into one of the tiny chapel windows atop Como Hill Where the expectations Of a sunny fun filled day atop the Bahamas Have ran away from us How high, So far above all things else While outside, A constant dripping mist of fine rain Shrouds the earth A thousand shades of greenery Sleep in their everlasting sleep It’s as if the world is awakening To news of a new life Up here, Heaven must be smiling SACELLUM SPIRITUS SANCTI Sacred words Chiseled into fifty year old concrete Above the chapel door Now, here

Scan code to watch video

Where the peace of the world Rests upon me Here, Where, despite the rain, Heaven is that much closer Here, Knocking on the shadows Of Abraham’s bosom Where I take away A full and blessed meal From this spiritual appetite Here, I bask in the silence of knowing How words can touch a lost chord And summon you Before this altar of confusion Here, The trials of a new life awaits me, As the doors of perception, Eat away at the silence.

Scan code to watch video

Previous page The Little Yellow Boat Shanna’s Cove

Right and left Bahama Mamas

Scan code to watch kids playing basketball

Where the Wild Things Are Old Bight

I always loved the author and illustrator, Maurice Sendak, but I never had a book of his. How funny that I discovered this old copy in an abandoned library in Orange Creek. The book tells the story of a child liberated by his imagination who comes back to a place of comfort and belonging—a universal tale that could relate to children’s homes in Cat Island or around the world.

Dominoes Port Howe

Dominoes Patrice Francis

Dominoes They’re curious. These white rectangles with black dots, In varying numbers and patterns. Nothing fancy, Nothing particularly brilliant About bamming them down so loudly the table and the senses shake. It’s not violence. It’s untamed exhilaration – Not just over winning, scoring, getting ahead. Exhilaration that in spite of everything threatening Our culture, Our livelihood, Our manners, We still know how to connect. Every Sunday, no matter what, We still domino, We still know Each other. Funny, the simple things that sustain us. Double six! Your turn then!

Pampa got shot. Double Four! Hurry up and play! You okay? Feel like crying today. Double Two! Come here, you. Don’t block this board. You hear what I say? Hear you every day. I can’t play. Shut your mouth then! Every dog have his day. Double Six again! Stop from playing man! Pampa funeral today. We’ll show our support. Bring our board. And afterwards? You know: We’ll domino.

Right and left Cat Island Blues

Above Sixty Seconds Storm Devil’s Pond Right The Sea in a Bottle Devil’s Point

It was a sudden storm, I guess it didn’t last for more than two minutes. It came quickly from the horizon towards shore and it created some gorgeous contrasts and colors. I quickly photographed it before the rain poured down.

Sixty Seconds Storm Patrice Francis

Summer day, sunny and bright, Can’t escape the piercing light. Summer clouds, blues and grays, What did you do? Swallow the rays? Colours start shifting, the advent of rain. Will we ever see the sun again? Rain now in torrents, no apology, Who’s skilled to track such rapidity? Whoa! Now sun is back, turquoise waters lie still, She’ll shine her huge heart out until…until…

Creek’s Wilderness Alligator Creek

Alligator Creek is one of the most beautiful places in the whole island. The colors are stunning and the marine life is so rich. Sandbars, a winding water road, herons, and all kinds of birds make this place so lively and special.

Scan code to watch video of Alligator Creek

CONCEPTION ISLAND National Park

About the park Beat Schlagenhauf

“A little-known gem, even within The Bahamas, it was wonderful to learn about Conception Island when Alessandro suggested it for the book. One of the National Parks under the management of the Bahamas National Trust, Conception is totally uninhabited and protected. The beauty and tranquility is just breathtaking. I hope these photos will make you want to put a visit to this special island on your agenda.” In the string of jeweled islands that is The Bahamas archipelago,

Encouraging everyone to become defenders of these cherished

Conception Island National Park glitters extra bright and vibrantly

environments, Conception Island National Park was established as

blue. Ringed with mangroves in glass-clear shallows, stripes of

a land and sea park in 1964. This one-of-a-kind sanctuary habitat

surreal aqua, saturated intense royal hues, and indigo line up and

sustains marine wellness, climate resilience, and biodiversity so

flow together as if gazing at God’s watercolor palette. The tiered

important to the region and everywhere ocean currents flow

sea floor depths, unusually close together, create the wondrous

across the globe. Dive boats, yachts and research vessels carefully

first impression, along with the pink-tinged soft sand beaches.

visit this healthy and precious ecosystem, thought to be one of

Quieter awe percolates up through the natural limestone and

Columbus’ first landfalls.

through the mouth of the creek where majestic seabirds bask and breed. Sandstone cliffs, green turtles, migratory birds, ruins left

From Cape Santa Maria on Long Island, you can charter a boat and

from a long-ago small settlement, and thriving wildlife abound

captain to take you to Conception Island National Park and show

on land and sea. Uninhabited for over 100 years, this unspoiled

you around the rare natural beauty. Another great experience is

haven is part of The Bahamas National Trust’s world-class parks

to charter a catamaran with Dave and Patricia Calvert, long time

system which maintains, supports, and protects 32 such special

residents of Cat Island. They are located in Port Howe.

places for the benefit of all.

Scan code to watch video of the park

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Scan code to listen to Frank’s advice on bush teas

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Frank Ward “I love photographing Frank, he is so photogenic and so natural in front of the camera. Every time I visit Cat Island I go see him, have a chat, and take some new photos. It was difficult for me, almost impossible, to put only one or two pictures of him in the book, so i decided to dedicate a whole chapter to him to celebrate the King of Zonicle Hill.”

Alessandro Sarno

I vividly remember the day I met Frank Ward. It was 2015 and a

Today, Frank Ward is 86 years old and hasn’t lost one bit of his

new local friend (the late Patricia Hoyte) took me up Zonicle Hill to

sparkling character and vitality. He traveled a lot in his younger

meet him. I was fascinated by his personality. He was welcoming

years and made his living as a carpenter and mason. He also

and eager to tell stories. He offered us a brazzalita tea as we sat

used to farm, fish, and raise livestock such as goats and pigs. He

down on a wooden bench under a tamarind tree and listened

loves the sea as much as the farm so he worked both with great

to his tales. One thing I quickly learned is that Frank loves to

passion.

read. He devours everything that has the printed word on it, but up there on the Hill, books are quite a rare commodity. So,

Frank is also a skilled freediver, and only recently stopped. I love

ever since then, every time I would visit I’d bring a book for him.

photographing Frank. He is so photogenic and so natural in front

Honestly, I can’t wait for Diamonds and Rust to be published so

of the camera. Every time I visit Cat Island I go to see him, have

that I can bring him a copy. He lives on top of a hill overlooking

a chat, and take some new photos. It was difficult for me, almost

the sea. It’s a magical place. You can see the ponds and the vast

impossible, to put only one or two pictures of him in the book,

land covered in bushes, where, Frank told me, many years ago,

so i decided to dedicate a whole chapter to him to celebrate the

herds of wild horses used to roam free.

King of Zonicle Hill.

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Frank Anishka King

Come to this place Where ocean meets sky Tranquil Whispers Dance across The evening tide Man and friend Embrace this place Walking with dignity And ethereal grace Freedom is our song Burdens no more I’ve travelled the world I’ve toiled all my days But Today I stand here In a peaceful gaze Gentle breeze Kiss me again Shower me with Your never ending love My head I raise As I look above Whispers in the wind My message to you Come Find me Because I am home

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Previous page Ocean Dream Atlantic Ocean

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Forward Thinking

Big Rock is a brilliant coral carver. His marvelous pieces decorate many houses and hotels throughout the island.

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Scan code to listen to Rake ‘n Scrape song

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Rake ‘n Scrape T. S. Elliot

“At the still point of the turning world… There is a dance, where the past and the future gather…Revealing the inner freedom from practical desire, the release from suffering.”

Dr. Daniel Mackey Dumfries Johnson

Very rarely do we have the occasion to see, hear, and feel

Like the intonations of Joseph Spence and the coolness of

a Masterpiece of Intangible Cultural Heritage in real time. The art

Blind Blake, Rake ‘n Scrape’s complicated sequences transcend

of Rake ‘n Scrape is the most prescriptive preserve of Bahamian

the ordinary. Its driving beats and pulsating rhythms expose

art and culture, as it is singularly home grown. The late great Sir

our Family Island Mythology of triumph over tragedy. Sudden

Charles Carter and Oscar Johnson Sr helped popularize the term

changes in syncopation paint the dynamic picture of the Mosaic

Rake ‘n Scrape while sitting in a corner of the Turning Point bar/

Vicissitudes of Island life. The gentle banter of the Goat Skin Drum

lounge at Dumfries, Cat Island, many many moons ago. There,

is unusually calming after the hardship of being in Da field. Then

attempting to describe the musical artistry of Lassie-Doe (Earnest

a mastery of the piano-like concertina, foretold the colonizers

Stubbs) while bearing witness to a cornerstone of Bahamian art

of a new liberation that was to come. And then, the simple

history, they saw the potential of this art form going places like

Saw, sitting down at the end of the day to take us from labor

the Harlem Theatre in NYC. Rake ‘n Scrape’s propriety still sits,

to refreshment. Rake ‘n Scrape boasts the Great Story Tellers.

remarkably off screen, awaiting her call. Phill Stubbs describes

Sharing sage advice about life and love, we hear the voices

this universal language as a new world muse expressing the deep

of Earnest Stubbs, Pompey Johnson, ‘’Bo Hog’’, ‘’Offie’’, and

feelings of the heart. This mystical Dark Roasted Rhythm blends

the illustrious Phill Stubbs. No one can forget his great anthem

the history and heartbeat of The Bahamas, the melodies of

called “Going Back to Cat Island, Join the Rake ‘n Scrape Band”.

Europe with the rich rhythms of Africa. And although seemingly

Like the Sphinx rising from the ashes of time, Rake ‘n Scrape is

pleasant and playful; by intent, Rake ‘n Scrape’s origins reveal

our Heritage; Incorruptible and Undefiled. It is the essence and

to the careful listener, hopes and fears of a proud people living

understanding of our Family Island’s contribution to the history

in a harsh land, filled with great expectations. It is as elegant as

and culture of The Commonwealth of The Bahamas.

Sidney Poitier’s voice and as strong as the sea in a raging storm.

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Julian’s Toys Arthur’s Town

I met Julian many years ago but we become friends after he and my Italian friend, Chiara, fell in love. He now lives part time in Rome, Italy, and on Cat Island. He is a true gem of the island. He is so passionate about local culture, and he is doing all he can to keep it alive. His restaurant in Arthur’s Town, Da Smoke Pot, is a cultural hub where people gather to play or listen to rake and scrape. A venue where young and upcoming musicians practice in preparation of the National Rake and Scrape Festival, which is held every year at the beginning of June. People love to meet there to eat some delicious local food and just to talk and listen to stories. When Julian is not on the island, he is greatly missed, both by locals and visitors, who already know of him even before getting there!

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Da Smoke Pot Arthur’s Town

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Some images around Da Smoke Pot, When you see the sign “Parliament” you know you have reached! Some old traditional instruments used to play Rake and Scrape music.

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Impromptu Gig New Bight

Scan code to listen to Pompey playng the accordion

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Pompey Johnson is a cultural icon in Cat island. Here he is playing at an impromptu gig with his band mates at the regatta site in New Bight. As you can see from his expression, Rake and Scrape runs in his blood.

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Previous page The Mouth of the Creek Alligator Creek

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Behind the Walls Cove

Scan code to watch video of the sea

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Unveiling the Past Devil’s Point

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Cat Island has a lot of history and a large part of its history is from the era of plantation and slavery days. There are many plantation ruins scattered throughout the island, who attract the interest of University professors, especially from the United States. Here they just discovered the remnants of a new one and were clearing the bush around it.

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It’s a Crab World Cove

Scan code to watch video

I met Biggie only recently, on my last trip to the island. He was resting and enjoying the breeze when I stopped my car and approached him. He was a little skeptical at first, but then we started talking and he was so welcoming and kind to show me his crab catch! He also told me that one day he would love to visit Italy!

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Scared to Death

Scan code to watch crabs’ last meal

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When you talk or think about crabs in The Bahamas, and especially in Cat island, the first thing you think about is Crab and Rice! I like to believe that crabs are smart animals and have feelings and feel pain. I am convinced they do. Look at those eyes, they express fear so vividly. When kept in cages, many people don’t even feed them or give water. But some do. Biggie did and I was pleased.

Scan code to watch crabs in the cage

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We Love our Island

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Golden Smile New Bight

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House in the Prairie Old Bight

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Before and After Knowles

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Old Cemetery by the Sea Knowles

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Day Trip Devil’s Point

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Anyone who knows me knows how much I love and care for dogs. This was a particularly beautiful day. I went on an adventure trip with three of them. We walked, we looked at the sea, and then we had a great swim in a stream of water on a creek in the deep South. If you are curious about their names, they are Spirito, Mango, and Lullabel, who sadly passed away recently.

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Above Look but Don’t Touch Old Bight Right The Little Red Boat Bennett’s Harbour

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Westbound Atlantic Side

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Early Morning Mist Old Bight

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That day I woke very early and ventured out to photograph. When I reached the dirt road that cuts through the creek in the Bight, I was amazed by the yellowish colors and by the morning mist. To make the scene even more beautiful was a man walking to work in the middle of it.

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Scan code to watch Harry King grinding the grains

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Farming the land Isaiah 28:26, 29

“The farmer knows just what to do, for God has given him understanding. The Lord of Heaven’s Armies is a wonderful teacher and he gives the farmer great wisdom.”

Cat Island is known for some of the best, brightest, and most

bat droppings from area caves that were wheelbarrowed across

flavorful tomatoes in The Bahamas. There is a true love of

rocky terrain. Sidney Poitier was raised on Cat Island and lived

farming the land on Cat Island, with tomatoes, pineapples,

there before U.S. restrictions on tomato imports caused the

mangoes, watermelons, and corn that’s then ground by hand

family to move to Nassau looking for other work. Island farming

into very specially prepared and delicious grits. Tomato sauces

is hard, challenging work. The soil is fertile yet thin and mineral

and hot sauces made from the abundant tomatoes spice up the

rich. Drilled wells provide fresh water percolating up through the

local markets. Today, most of the beans, potatoes, okra, pigeon

limestone, but can’t be drilled too deep without tapping into

peas, peppers, cabbages, and onions grown are for local sale

brackish salty waters. It takes considerable backbreaking effort

or subsistence. The reddish color of some of the soil on Cat

to hack through shrubby bush to clear new fields for planting.

Island shows its higher levels of iron oxide, possibly formed

During the June–November hurricane season, the possibility

from Sahara sands that blow across the Atlantic, and especially

of storms are an ongoing threat. To see colorful and abundant

suited to growing pineapple. Tomato farming was once done

baskets of beautiful homegrown fruits and vegetables represents

on a larger agricultural scale, with many Cat Island farmers

the result of tremendous effort and a continuing love and respect

traveling to Florida to sell their crops, including the family of

for the land and all it provides.

Sidney Poitier. His family is said to have grown some of the finest tomatoes around thanks to a secret sustainable fertilizer:

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Red Land

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Eleazer Rolle, also known as Leaza, owns the bar Pass Me Not in Old Bight, but his true passion is farming. He showed me around his land. It was a beautiful red land where he grows pineapples, cassava, watermelon, pigeon peas, beans, and much more.

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Scan code to watch video

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Fruits of the Land

Red tomatoes are still the most fabulous on Cat Island. Harry King and a few others make a wonderful natural sauce, which I love to use over my spaghetti! All sorts of mangoes abound on the island too.

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Papaya Patrice Francis

You think it’s just salmon-coloured pulp Housed in a green-turning-yellow dress? Or black, pearl-shaped beads poised To be scraped to the east or west? Why, it’s the promise of fullness, the vow to be sweet, The proof that a fruit is where Seed time and Harvest meet. A full-stop of beauty, nature’s magnum opus on a plate, And it’s pregnant with juicy descendants… if we’ll only wait!

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Scan code to watch video Harry King Zonicle Hill

Reverend Harrison King has a great passion for farming. He has been planting and growing food his whole life. Learning from his parents, the Reverend David King and Maudell King, farming has been his thing since the time he was a young boy. With his natural green thumbs, everything he plants and tends yields beautiful fruits and vegetables in abundance. Ask what’s his secret? Giving. His favorite scripture? Luke 6:38 “Give, and it shall be given unto you; good measure, pressed down, and shaken together, and running over,

shall men give into your bosom. For with the same measure that ye mete withal it shall be measured to you again.”A man with acres and acres of farmland, Reverend Harrison grows crops like corn, pigeon peas, okra, cassava, potatoes, beans, sweet potatoes, sugar cane, tomatoes, sweet pepper, hot pepper, cabbage, broccoli, papaya, pumpkins, watermelons, cucumbers, pineapples, and mangoes—it’s an impressive list that literally keeps on growing!

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Left Making Tomato Sauce Old Bight Following page From Above Shanna’s Cove

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Into the Woods

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There is a beautiful walk through the woods past Shanna’s Cove Resort towards the north end of the island. You’ll encounter a great variety of plants, flowers, little crabs, and birds. Just listening to the sound of the woods is an amazing experience.

Scan code to listen to the sounds of the woods

Clouds in the Pond Red Pond

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Life in a pond Alessandro Sarno

“The hidden worlds within Cat Island ponds are a study in transformation and beauty tucked into each life-giving water droplet and muddy hollow. This is an exciting tiny realm of biodiversity quietly supporting and uplifting the whole natural foundations of island life.”

To see the fresh and saltwater ponds scattered throughout

a very long time, others have formed after hurricanes rearranged

Cat Island is to notice the small details of teeming life in these

the sands, creating new openings or barriers. The change of

beautiful habitats. These micro-worlds are immensely vibrant

colors during the day are a special fascination: sunlight, blue,

habitats in, around, and under the surface. The mangroves act

amber sunrises, deep sunsets, stormy skies, or silvery moonlight

as an important ocean nursery for small fish, mollusks, and many

all mirrored at different times upon the watery lenses. In the

marine species. Egrets, herons, seabirds, and flocks of migrating

ponds are vital biomes that feed and sustain a variety of wildlife

winter birds raise their young while calling these marshy muddy

and plant life in the island’s healthy and pristine ecosystem. These

banks home. Dragonflies flit over still surfaces reflecting shifting

important wetland areas shimmer with alluring natural grace.

clouds, light, shadow. Some of the ponds have been there for

Scan code to watch video

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Left In Flight Above Golden Clouds Bennett’s Harbour

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Scan code to listen to the sounds of the pond

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Natural Sculptures

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Natural Laundry Arthur’s Town

“My mother used to go wash the family clothing in a pond in the woods not far from the house, and I would go with her when she did the laundry. She would go and add a little Octagon soap to a garment and then she would beat the garment on a stone.” Sidney Poitier

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Scan code to watch turtles

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Proud Hands Devil’s Point

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Florabelle used to live in a house on top of the hill in Devil’s Point. I haven’t seen her in awhile. She was lively and fun and loved to weave straw products. The day I took this photo, I was struck by the beauty of her hands and the red color of her nails.

Florabelle Patrice Francis

Florabelle, Show me how to wind that top around my fingers, And make a thing of beauty come out. A testament to tangible talent, Weaving different stories for us to tell, Different perspectives for us to adopt. We need those fingers, dancing in and out Ushering in change, Escorting unwavering opinions that Native is the same as beautiful.

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Preparing Sisal Leaves Orange Creek

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Orange Creek

“It’s a spectacle of tides, sand, and water channeling and moving in all directions—like an orchestra there is synchronicity and harmony.”

Alessandro Sarno

I consider Orange Creek one of the gems of Cat Island. It’s a

At low tide you can follow a sand path and cross the river to the

little settlement just north of Arthur’s Town. It’s beauty lies within

other side, where some beautiful beaches are. I love to watch

its location. On one side is the ocean, and on the other, the

the ripples and the movement of the water in the natural little

mouth of the creek. It’s a spectacle of tides, sand, and water

sand channels. In the settlement there is a little quaint hotel

channeling and moving in all directions; like an orchestra there

called Orange Creek Inn, nestled in an oasis of natural paradise,

is synchronicity and harmony. I could sit for hours on the little

surrounded by fresh ocean breezes, and white sandy beaches

stairs there and observe the show. Sometimes at sunset, when

engulfed with crystal turquoise waters. A grocery store and

all conditions fall into place, it turns orange, I only saw it once,

laundromat, plus a newly red-painted Anglican church complete

and sadly, I have no photograph of that.

the idyllic landscape of the village.

Scan code to watch video of Orange Creek

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Tidal Gardens Orange Creek

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Stairway to Heaven Orange Creek

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Scan code to watch video of Orange Creek

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The House by the Sea Orange Creek

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Previous page On the Line Arthur’s Town

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The Little Catholic Church Pigeon Cay

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Signs of the Times Pigeon Cay

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Hazel Brown Smith’s Bay

Scan code to watch video

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Hazel Brown is one of the many lovely Bahama Mamas I have met during the years. I remember seeing her across the road from her house, sitting in the shade and enjoying the pleasant breeze coming from the sea. I asked her if she knew of any pineapple fields in the area and in the video you can hear her talking.

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Scan code to watch Mrs Mary preparing the crab cakes

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Ladies’ Delicious Hands

I love watching and photographing ladies working and doing their things. In these pictures (left) Mary is cleaning some crabs to prepare her delicious crabcakes, and in the picture above, conch salad is being prepared at her restaurant at the regatta site.

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Pastel Rain Anishka King

A Rainbow of Emotions Painted in Every drop Puddles Emulsified Into Rivers Running Away With My Sorrows Your Joys Experiencing Lives Unknown Pastel dreams It seems Flowing Peacefully In the rain

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Old Red Cross Nursery Orange Creek

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The Creek Master Old Bight Scan code to listen to Rokki’s song “Creek Master“

Scan code to watch Cornelius fishing

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Cornelius is Rokki’s cousin and he is known as the creek master. He knows every inch of every creek in the south and has been fishing all his life. One afternoon, we went together and he showed me how he catches the fish. Rokki wrote a song about Cornelius and you can listen to it by scanning the code at the top of the page.

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NORTH END POINT CAMPERDOWN BEACH BLUE HOLE ORANGE CREEK ARTHUR’S TOWN

CAT ISLAND CREST BENNETT’S HARBOUR PIGEON CAY

ROKER’S

COVE KNOWLES

SMITH’ S BAY FERNANDEZ BAY MOUNT ALVERNIA NEW BIGHT

OLD BIGHT

GREAT LAKE HAWK’S NEST

GREENWOOD PORT HOWE

RED POND ZONICLE HILL DEVIL’S POINT

CONCEPTION ISLAND NATIONAL PARK

About the author Alessandro Sarno is a

community gatherings, worship services, wildlife, vistas of solitude,

photographer born and

rhythms of connection, a forgotten corner, an unexpected treasure,

raised in Italy. Twelve years

small details illuminating humanity’s vastness. His personal notes

ago he made his first trip

and thoughts on exploring and finding the people and places

to The Bahamas, and it

that make for a more memorable and deeper visitor experience

was a trip that changed

(beyond the usual routes) are found in his unique curated

his life. Mesmerized by the

photographic books: The Exuma Cays Land & Sea Park and in

incredible blue waters, he

Eleuthera, White Bull on the Highway. His passion for travel and

was compelled to buy his

being in the moment opens Sarno up to fully experiencing the

first camera. What started

places and people he meets along the way. “I believe that once

out as a short vacation transformed into a deep love for both

a scene or portrait is captured and framed into a photograph,

photography and for the The Bahamas, where he still feels most

it is elevated to a higher dimension, to a limbo between reality

inspired to capture everyday moments of life. Sarno has published

and imagination. It becomes visual poetry, where words are

six coffee table books portraying life in the islands: Cat Island—

replaced by shapes, spaces, colors, lines, light, and shadows.”

Diamonds and Rust, Exumas—The Kingdom of Blue, Eleuthera—

Enjoying the distinctive energy of each new person or landscape

The Garden of Freedom, Junkanoo–The Spirit of a People,

he encounters, Sarno considers photography his ongoing travel

Catch Da Cat, and Blue and Beyond. Sarno’s work has been

companion. His artistic name, “The Lonesome Photographer”

featured in many group shows in The Bahamas and the United

draws inspiration from the classic road-less-traveled book,

States, including Art Ft. Lauderdale’s January 2020 Art Fair on the

Lonesome Traveler, by novelist and poet, Jack Kerouac.

Water. A special exhibit of Sarno’s Bahamian portraits is on at The Betsy Hotel in Miami Beach this Fall. Sarno’s photography focuses on the details and crossroads of daily life:

For information on exhibitions, book signings and prints purchase please visit thelonesomephotographer.com

Scan code to see all Bahamas coffee table books

Thank you Alessandro Sarno

“My special thought goes to the people who are gracing the pages of my book and sadly are no longer with us. Their memory will live on in the photographs I had the privilege of making. Thank you for the time, the conversations, and the smiles you gave me.” B e a T S c h l a g e n h a u f for your friendship, for believing in my photography and for making this book possible. P a u l a B o y d F A R R I N G T O N for being such a wonderful friend and for creating the most beautiful covers for my books, with such passion and talent. B R A V E D A V I S for taking the time to write a passionate foreword about the book and Cat Island. h a r r y k i n g for showing me your farm and being there when I needed anything while on the island. D A N I E L J O H N S O N for contributing to the book with a heartfelt description of Rake and Scrape. l e s l e y and n e d for welcoming me so warmly at your beautiful lodge Pigeon Cay Club. t o n y and p a m a r m b r i s t e r for contributing to the book with a soulful description of Cat Island. j u l i a n r u s s e l l for being a loyal friend and a wonderful host in Arthur’s Town. m a r i o and a n n a m a r i a a l b e k without you there would be no book of Cat Island today and we know why... g a r t h h i l b e r t k i n g for contributing to the book with your beautiful poems about the island. A L E X A N D R E T A B A R Y - D E V I S M E for Rolex precious collaboration to the book. p a t r i c e f r a n c i s for contributing to the book with your beautiful poems about the island. a n i s h k a k i n g for contributing to the book with your beautiful poems about the island. p a u l h a r d i n g for an amazing flight over Cat Island and Conception Island. j e f f K u e h l for an unforgettable flight to Hawks Nest. r o d n e y j a m e s r o l l e aka r o k k i for spending time with me and showing me some beauty in the South. p o m p e y j o h n s o n for showing me the secret locations of the Armbristers graves and for playing your accordion for me. D E L B E R T S M I T H for an unforgettable and safe boat trip to Conception Island National Park. a n d r e w j o n e s for making me fall in love with Cat Island many years ago, and for hosting me at beautiful Spirit House. A L L T H E P E O P L E I photographed and that are gracing the pages of this book. E v e r y o n e who crossed my path or the path of my photography and showed appreciation and support.

Publisher Philautia Publishing New Providence, The Bahamas All rights reserved © 2021 Philautia Publishing - philautiaeleuthera.com Book Design Art Direction: Alessandro Sarno Graphic Design: Alberto Cancian Cover Art Images Diamonds and Rust and Conception Island National Park mixed media art by Paula Boyd Farrington theartistpaula.com

Poems © Garth Hilbert King © Anishka King © Patrice Francis Printed In Italy in October 2021 By L.E.G.O. S.p.A. - ISBN 978-0-578-98070-6 This book respects the environment, the paper used was produced using wood from forests managed to strict environmental standards. Sidney Poitier’s quote on back cover was taken from Christian Campbell article/interview “Island Boy”, published in Callaloo literary journal in March 2007 by Johns Hopkins University Press.

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Open Water Garth Hilbert King

Tropical storm Chris was born at 5 A.M. this morning, 40 miles per hour, One hundred miles east of Antigua Between those two extremes of the Leeward isles and the coast of Florida Lay what U.S. weather forecasters like to refer to as open waterBut within those 100,000 square miles of open water Lay these Bahama Islands, These archipelagic strands of Limestone mountain tops Peaking above ‘Bajamar’s shallow seasThese isles of history, Dancing in a turquoise ocean And marching in a south easterly curve From the gates of the Americas, To the Grand Isles of Cuba and Hispaniola These isles are the veins of a nation Who feel the brunt of hurricanes spawned off the coast of West Africa, Rowdy bodies of nature Churning the bowels of waterways up the ole Bahama channel, Waltzing this pathway to Miami Where 155 miles per hour winds can twist coconut palms like wrung bath towels, Where 165 miles per hour winds can pierce concrete with missives of wood, Where nature dances in a spiteful mirth of green vegetation sprayed brown with salt spray People like me live in open water We experience the birth of storms in open water Our islands are the backbone of open water We are the caretakers of open water.