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An unstoppable fashion trio: Mr LVMH Arnault, Silvia Fendi and Karl Lagerfeld
Fashion trio Silvia Fendi, Karl Lagerfeld and LVMH are taking Fendi, now in its 80th year, to new successes. Linked inextricably with Lagerfeld since childhood, Silvia reveals exclusively to Alexandra Shakespeare just what it was like growing up around such a design master, in one of Italy’s most-loved fashion houses
Baguette or bust
Left: VIVA’s limitededition invitation to the Palazzo opening party, sketched by Lagerfeld Right: Fendi’s shoe design team hard at work
Alex ch
ats with
Karl
sports his signature grey ponytail, black leather
proud of how far the company has come. In
owned part of the company and each had
gloves and dark sunglasses. He inspires intrigue.
just five years, the business has gone from a
the right to dispute its direction. It must have
Carla Fendi, one of the five Fendi sisters,
family operation with only two shops in New
been a huge pressure carrying that name,
sits in the front row; as chairman, she is the
York and Rome to a corporate concern with
being that name?
only remaining Fendi to own a stake in the
117 worldwide.
once family-dominated business. She remains
K
Karl’s minimalist Fendi office
‘The fact that it was a family business shows
It wasn’t an easy transition. Pre-LVMH,
that there has been passion - for people,’
pensive and tight-lipped, with her head just
the Fendi family lacked a long-term vision.
explains Silvia enthusiastically, finally uncrossing
ever so slightly tipped high. Next to her is her
Flagging sales results indicated as much. Yet
her arms and legs. ‘It is your name - you feel
niece, Silvia Venturini Fendi. Director of Fendi
the creativity was always there, it was just
pride, and you have to show that it is not only a product but it is something that is part of you.’
arl Lagerfeld’s Fendi design
and the design tomes said to be Karl’s most
accessories and menswear, and famed for
instigating a healthy structure outside the
studio is a shrine to minimalism.
prized possessions, and I try to imagine a master
designing the Fendi Baguette bag, Silvia, 44,
matriarchal hierarchy which dominated for
To get to it, Karl - like any mere
at work. Is Karl really part of the action here at
bears a similar expression to her aunt, and as
so long that was near impossible. ‘I feel better
with Fendi for 40 years, almost his entire career
mortal - has to stride up to
Fendi? I bet the 80-odd Japanese journalists
Arnault talks on their behalf, she - like Karl and
here now,’ sighs Silvia. ‘It is good teamwork. My
(and for the last 20 with Chanel too), feels the
peeking in too are wondering the same thing.
Carla - gives little away. But what does she
colleagues listen to me and I can fight hard for
same about Fendi. After so long, is it part of him too? His reputation would have you think
the second floor of Palazzo Fendi, the company’s shiny
I wonder if Karl Lagerfeld, who has worked
really think of these corporate heavyweights
what I want. Before, I would argue with my family
our doubts, Mr Bernard Arnault, head of luxury
addressing the fashion world about the
then still have to sit down for dinner with them, so
not. Known as ‘Kaiser Karl’ for being detached
Rome, past the bustling fur workshop, Silvia’s
conglomerate LVMH which now owns 98 per
future of their brand - their business - that
you always want to uphold a good relationship.
yet dedicated - whatever the cost - to the
design desk and shoe guru Ernesto Esposito’s
cent of Fendi, turns to the crowd attending the
three generations of the Fendi family have
There weren’t any borders, your feelings
cause of clothes, he’s seen as one of few
post-HQ tour, and announces the renewal of
dedicated their lives to?
new international headquarters in the heart of
busy design team. A small white-walled box room, it’s scarcely furnished bar a white leather-padded chair, a neat white sofa, and a nondescript white desk. My eyes settle on the set of coloured pencils 110
An hour later, as if we’d all collectively aired
Fendi’s contract with Lagerfeld. There is more hope - and hype - ahead for the Italian label. Mr Lagerfeld himself is in attendance. Cigarette-slim in black drainpipe jeans, he
Silvia Fendi sits opposite me now, cross-
and emotions were always involved.’ The LVMH takeover is now, to some
legged and wearing a tired expression, and
extent, a relief for everyone (and not least
I ask her just that. She says, in a thick Italian
because profit is in sight for 2007). Five
accent, no louder than a whisper, that she’s
years ago all the sisters (and their children)
Famous fans of the Fendi Baguette bag: Cate Blanchett, Catherine Zeta Jones and J.Lo
independent fashion ‘brands’ to exist in the industry’s recent history. Some harsh critics, however, wonder how such an ‘institution’ could not make a similarly huge success of his three own-name trademark 111
Dubai’s fiorrset Fendi st
labels. Having just sold them to conglomerate-hungry Tommy Hilfiger, Karl may have finally silenced them. Still, whichever side of the fence you sit on when it comes to Karl’s genius, one glimpse into the history of the 80-year-old brand, and it’s clear that without him, LVMH and Silvia’s Baguette bags, Fendi wouldn’t be the global success it is today. The five headstrong Fendi sisters met the German designer in 1965 when he swept into the Fendi design studio, then a converted cinema in Rome. Paola, Anna, Franca, Carla
Fendi bags hit the headlines all over the world
and Alda controlled the family business with their mother Adèle, after their father Edoardo had died. Bringing in Karl was a radical move. Silvia, Anna’s daughter, then just four years old, fondly recalls first setting eyes on Karl: ‘He changed his look so many times, but when I first
The new A/W 05 Baguette bag design
met him he was in his late twenties with long, dark, curly hair and a beard. Wearing a longsleeved artisan shirt, he looked like a painter - it was a very romantic vision.’ The first thing Karl Lagerfeld did with his fresh ‘artisan’ eye was design the double ‘F’ Fendi logo, which now distinguishes the brand absolutely. At the same time, though, Fendi’s
Karl’s absolute independence from any
fur sales were seriously flagging. It was a
one brand that such genius was allowed to
worrying period - Fendi had become infamous
flourish? When I asked Karl what it is he brings
for fur since opening its first small shop in
to Fendi that no other designer could, he
Via del Plebiscito in Rome in 1925. Carla
confirms this theory: ‘I have an understanding
and Anna, the youngest of the two Fendis,
for Italians, but I’m a stranger,’ he declares
along with Lagerfeld, started
decisively. ‘It is always better for
rethinking the traditionally
strangers to have a view on a
of the word’. Could Fendi’s family environment
heavy fur coat. Together they
country, a style, a spirit, more
have actually helped to nurture his talent?
so than the people who
reshaped it (cutting smaller
are born there - people
shoulders and leaner bodies), redyed it in
who are born there are
fashion colours, and
too involved, they are
Indeed, perhaps it is Silvia Fendi, who now heads up design with Karl, who has kept him there for the last 40 years. Said to have developed an almost
pleated and draped
more part of the place
the luxury skins in a
and have to deal
earliest designs for Fendi was in fact a dress for
way that had never
with the restrictions
the young Silvia. ‘A simple look is enough for us
that brings. I am
to understand each other,’ she says. ‘We know
been done before.
international, I am not
‘I wanted to use
too involved.’
technique,’ recalls
So he feels he has an
the designer. The
father/daughter relationship, one of Karl’s
each other very, very well. When I was young, I preferred to see him work, rather than go and play with my friends.’ But despite growing up
first of Karl’s many
outsiders’ perspective
around him, Silvia says that she also remained
controversial
then? ‘Always. In life,
something of an outsider - from both Karl and
changes introduced
work, everything, I am
the business - until her early thirties.
at the atelier, paid off. Rather
always on the outside.’ Dubbed the sixth
than just a status symbol, Fendi fur became a wearable fashion statement. It was a move that was seen as pure fashion genius. But was it really only through 112
Fur coats featured heavily on Fendi’s autumn/winter 2005 catwalk
‘Everybody thought I should go in to the business, apart from me. Although I did want to
honourary Fendi sister, he has
understand Karl, who had a great relationship
never, by any means, been a
with my mother Anna. I felt his intelligence, his
stranger to the house of Fendi,
genius, but I was little bit afraid of this - I was
despite once claiming, ‘I
scared to be around him,’ Silvia recalls. ‘But
want no roots in any sense
Karl would come to Rome and we would have
Another Baguette bag design for A/W 05
Young Silvia wearing Fendi Palazzo Fendi, Rome: LVMH proves its commitment to Fendi by restoring the 18th century building into the HQ. It houses a store, design studios and fur ateliers (above)
Silvia & Ka
rl at HQ
lunch. We would talk about music, anything.
‘I returned to a very big scandal. Our family
time it was the mid-90s and minimalist black
With somebody who can both talk and sketch
is like a clan, and my grandmother Adèle was
nylon bags dominated. Deciding that Fendi’s
so eloquently, to a child, it’s such a delight.
shocked. I didn’t get married though - I never
customers wanted more personalised, colourful
Everything he did was harmonic.
did. The father of my son was already married.’
and luxurious bags, Silvia created the Fendi
‘When the time came, I tried to look inside
The honour of the Fendi name was at stake.
Baguette - so called as it fits snugly under the
myself and think, “What do I want to do?”. I
Enter surrogate father Karl. ‘I told him what
arm like a French stick. Every star from SJP
had to go travelling and put some distance
had happened. When I arrived home with my
to J.Lo carried one and the demand for the
between me and my family’s work to find out.’
boyfriend, Karl had made me a wedding dress
compact, opulent purse went through the roof.
in red, not white, because I was pregnant. It
So did the waiting lists, which were more down
was seen to be rejecting the world she was
was beautiful with a big bow over the bump.
to manufacturing restrictions than purposely
born into - and learning from a master didn’t
Then I found invites to a party celebrating my
building hype. Nearly 10 years on, it’s still being
change her feelings. ‘It was a big problem
‘wedding’ that had supposedly taken place in
talked about and because of it, Silvia’s position
for the family. I was sent to college in London
London! It read, “The Fendi family invites you to
in the LVMH-controlled business is assured. ‘I am
because my aunt Carla - who was like a
celebrate our daughter’s wedding to Bernard”
still here not because I am a Fendi but because
second mother to me - said I must finish
– they didn’t even know his full name. It was
people recognise my work. That makes me
studying so I could join the business. I made
an invitation to all the friends in Rome to a fake
really happy.’
it clear I didn’t want to. “But what else are
wedding party! We then had three big nights
When Silvia took a bow with Karl at the end
you going to do?” she asked. “Travel” I said,
with cakes and gifts. I have the pictures but it
of the much applauded autumn/winter 2005/6
to which she replied, “That’s no good. You
was never real!
catwalk show, it sealed what we now know to
With all the family involved in Fendi, Silvia
be one of the most important relationships in
Fendi’s in-store trunk shows (touring catwalk
fourth generation, so I had to go through with
Fendi’s past, present and future. But who will
presentations) - working for two months in LA,
it all, otherwise I would have brought shame to
be leading the fourth generation of Fendi?
then travelling to Tokyo and Japan every May.
the family. It’s very Italian - like the movies!’
When Silvia eventually returned home in
Silvia made up for the scandal - which she
‘I have a daughter too,’ says Silvia. ‘She graduates soon but doesn’t know what she
her late twenties, via a stay in Brazil, she was
has never talked about publicly before - by
wants to do, except travel and maybe work in
pregnant. ‘I suddenly had a much stronger
knuckling down to work. She launched the
fashion. She reminds me of somebody I know
sense of family. So I came back to Italy and
diffusion line, Fendissime, with her sister and
very well...’
finally got involved in the business.
cousin before shaking up accessories. At that
■ Fendi Dubai, BurJuman Centre (04) 351 1833
114
PHOTOGRAPHY REX AND WIREIMAGE
‘You see, my son was the first of Fendi’s
have to work”.’ Eventually Silvia agreed to run