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There’s just one Oscar bag the stars are lusting after. So just why is the Lana Marks Cleopatra clutch in such demand? By Alexandra Shakespeare
Kate Winslet
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Jennifer Aniston
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Dame Helen Mirren
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ight years ago, when celebrity stylist Philip Bloc predicted in the LA Times that the “Lana Marks Cleopatra Clutch will be the handbag of the future”, he was on to something big. Carried by stars from Sarah Jessica Parker and Kate Winslet to this year’s Oscar winner Dame Helen Mirren, the “Cleo” clutch has been an annual red-carpet regular since 2003. “Each year I allow one star to carry the bag,” Lana Marks tells me while visiting Dubai. “It seems to have escalated now into a kind of pre-awards fashion frenzy with everybody wondering, ‘who will be the next star to carry the Cleopatra?’ It’s becoming a red-carpet tradition.” Funny, as you’d think any leading lady in her right mind would want to make a unique fashion statement, rather than treading the same style ground as last year’s now (probably) lukewarm celeb. Not so. “It’s all about the exclusivity element,” explains Lana proudly. Inspired by the timeless Hollywood glamour of Elizabeth Taylor, the classic Cleopatra has a rich design heritage. “When I first designed the Cleopatra, I was trying to design a handbag that would become iconic for Hollywood. First of all I had the iconic Princess Diana bag, inspired by the princess herself, who later became a great friend. And after a meeting with Elizabeth Taylor, who epitomised Hollywood glamour particularly in her role as Cleopatra, I just knew that this is it, it must be called this because it is so befitting of a star.” With the option to customise each one with various precious gems, diamonds and gold and silver finishes, it couldn’t evoke Hollywood glamour more if it tried. Then, of course, there’s the small matter of production. To make, each bag uses the skin of up to three medium-sized American alligators, takes an average of 14 specialised artisans to craft and can cost anything from $2,500 (Dhs9,200) to $250,000 (Dhs918,200), depending on what embellishments the celebrity desires. Finished in fuchsia sapphires and white diamonds, Charlize Theron’s 2004 Cleopatra clutch cost a record-breaking $100,000. Then, just when you thought the legend of the Lana Marks clutch was sealed, Dame Helen Mirren turned up at the 2007 Oscars
podium to collect her award for The Queen. Clasping her now infamous Cleo in one hand as she went to pick up her gold statuette, what did she utter first? “Here I am with my purse,” while waving her Lana Marks creation in the air. Worth $250,000 and crafted out of cream alligator leather, 18-carat yellow gold and 776 fully cut and individually set white diamonds, and featuring a delicate Coronation-inspired crown detail – “which I told her was a good luck charm for her” – who wouldn’t want to show it off to a captive global audience? “I had no idea she was going to take the handbag on to the stage with her and hold it up like that,” says Lana. “I was told it was her lovely way of acknowledging me for the most complicated handbag I’ve ever created. She sent me a lovely letter, saying: ‘I don’t know if you noticed, but I was so attached to my purse, I took it up onstage, and then didn’t have a hand to take the Award.’” Dame Helen’s fellow nominees not granted the same bag privilege must have been quietly seething. So how does Lana control demand? “We just don’t allow ourselves to get into a situation where two stars want the same bag – it is not offered to someone else if it has already been selected,” reveals Lana. “Of course, if it’s not possible, we make recommendations for other styles.” But do the stars want the alternative if this bag is The One? At the 2005 Oscars Drew Barrymore carried the Lana Marks Concorde on the red carpet while Jennifer Aniston was the lucky recipient of the Cleo. Rather than see it as a snub, Drew, with her slightly less mainstream style, was no doubt secretly pleased to go with the alternative. But are all celebrities so accommodating? The same year, Reese Witherspoon got around the rules by carrying a Cleo at the after-show party instead of the main event. Surely this constitutes an infringement on the Lana Marks one-Cleo-per-Oscars exclusive? “Reese wore her bag after the awards. It was horrendously difficult, I can tell you. But I would rather not discuss it.” Sensing some major celebrity tension, I ask Lana if she felt she had granted the exclusive to the wrong celeb: after all, Reese walked away with the Best Actress award for Walk the Line. “Jen and Reese were both the darlings of American fashion at that time,” she proclaims, indicating that ➤ 41
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it’s a win-win situation. Moreover, she says fraternity now (she’s sat on the Oscar style firmly, “I am trusted, and once I have advisors’ board and created bags for First committed to that star, no matter how Lady Laura Bush), she was raised in South many others approach me, I am loyal. Africa by wealthy middle-class parents – her “Of course, it is incredibly hard when mother a socialite and her father a director two celebs per season both want my bags. The most sought- of his own real estate business. Lana travelled We did have this situation a few years ago after evening bags extensively in Europe with her mother on and I just had to juggle products and time on the red carpet fabric-buying trips, and she believes this is – we had two major stars staying at the where her sense of the exquisite developed. bungalows at the Beverly Hills Now a mother of two, married hotel. Even though we work with to a successful plastic surgeon, DAME HELEN MIRREN, 2007 Oscars very few – maybe two or three per she started designing bags when Dame Helen’s gown by Academy Award season – we just she couldn’t find the right one Christian Lacroix was couldn’t let one know about the for her husband’s high-profile complemented by a other: it had to be done in a socials. Hers are bags that fit $250,000 Lana Marks bag, in cream alligator clandestine way… Sneak into one into that world – as does she. leather, 18-carat bungalow, sneak into the other, “Dealing with people of a yellow gold and 776 fully cut, individually wearing dark glasses!” certain stature comes naturally set white diamonds. With the identity of the bag to me. I’m very proper, which carrier shrouded in secrecy until does not always go hand in the big day (“I had four teams of JENNIFER ANISTON, hand with my industry. If I’m artisans working in four different 2006 Oscars committed to one star in one countries on Helen’s bag so they Jennifer’s understated situation I’m loyal: I don’t think did not know what it was for”), Cleopatra was worth because someone else comes it’s not surprising the column a mere $5,500. Made along I’ll change things.” out of black alligator inches go crazy for the Lana bag with a gold trim, it The epitome of charm, scoop. Popular E! Entertainment paired perfectly with Lana’s polished, professional her black Rochas channel got the inside track on dress by Olivier Beverly Hills attire (sharp skirt last year’s Lana Marks bag grab. Theyskens. suit, immaculately blow-dried Filming her, fly-on-the-wall style, blonde bob) matches her strong in the three-day countdown to the sense of propriety and mastery KATE WINSLET, Oscars, as she tried to gracefully of the social niceties (“I really 2005 Oscars pull off the impossible for Jennifer can’t name names unless I have Kate wore Badgley Mischka and carried Aniston, gave quite an insight. permission; I am trusted, you a matt silver alligator “I got a call from Jen’s stylist see”). Having befriended Diana, clutch with 40 carats three days before the Oscars and Princess of Wales, a year-and-aof diamonds and sapphires set in I sketched what he wanted while half before she died, she is used 18-carat white gold, on the phone to him in the store. to delicate royal confidences, in all worth $25,000. Jen’s stylist wanted the frame to be and the Hollywood elite is shiny gold on the edging, but we almost as sensitive. This is a only had the matt in stock, and woman who understands life’s CHARLIZE THERON, they wanted black alligator skin 2004 Oscars pecking order – and its place but we were completely sold Wearing Tom Ford for on the red carpet. She was out of that too. Not to mention Gucci, Charlize horrified when she once heard managed to misplace that it takes many months of of another designer supplying her $100,000 black craftsmanship for any changes. and white diamond the same dress to two stars. I had to say to my artisans: ‘This and platinum purse. “The biggest TV star in it turned up in is something you’ve never done in Luckily America had the same dress in the back of her limo. such a short time, and this is another colour as another star something you need to make happen.’ We Oscar winners. “I look at several of the stars of lesser stature. Total stupidity.” pulled it off, but it was the biggest challenge in the movies that are being produced at the And that’s the key to the Lana Marks bag. I’ve ever faced.” And the expense? “I pay for moment and I come up with a collection It may not make an overt fashion statement, all of that [suppliers and materials] but the especially for the Academy Awards.” but, with an understated elegance befitting Rarely dictated by the trends, there is Hollywood’s own royalty, it encompasses free publicity is immeasurable,” reveals Lana. She also keeps all the bags, and plans something reassuringly constant about the the style needs of women of a certain status. to create a fashion exhibition in the future. sturdy yet luxe bags, which are available in Dame Helen Mirren carrying a Lana Marks The Lana Marks machine rarely stops: Dubai at Harvey Nichols. Or maybe it’s bag at the Oscars: what could be more already she is researching next year’s potential Lana herself. Very much of the Hollywood befitting for The Queen? ■ 42
previous page Photographs: Frazer Harrison/Getty Images, Carlo Allegri/Getty Images, Frank Micelotta/Getty Images. this page photographs: courtesy lana marks
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