The Creative Power of Chanel “Revolutionalised the way women smell”
Inside: Chanel’s woman of 2004 FRAGRANCE ADVERTISING ANALYSIS ALEXANDRA STEPHENS N0571149 FASH10106 - CREATIVE NETWORKS
PHOTOGRAPHY BY ALEXANDRA STEPHENS
MUSE COLOUR STYLE COSTUMES ERAS PERSONALITY CULTURE INSPIRATION SIGNS + CODES
Fig. 4 Moulin Rouge 2001
Fig. 1 Chanel Logo 2004
Fig. 3 Dress by Karl Lagerfeld 2004
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Fig. 2 Chanel No.5 fragrance - Nicole Kidman 2004
TEXT ALEXANDRA STEPHENS
The Creative Power of Chanel
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Nicole Kidman stars in a MoulinRouge inspired fragrance campaign for the iconic brand: Chanel. This brand has been a regular user of celebrity endorsements to sell their products. The woman herself who starred in the famous ‘Moulin Rouge’ plays the role of a cabaret dancer in the extravagant twominute advert, which was directed by Moulin Rouge’s Baz Luhrmann (see fig. 4). The classic No 5 perfume is advertised in a way which creates impacting narrative and finalises with the line “her perfume”, the final shot lingering on a necklace of 687 diamonds (see fig. 2). Within the campaign, Chanel follows the tradition and heritage of the brand by bringing the old into the new, to create something depictive of the era but which is completely timeless.
However, she returns as a freespirited woman, in control of her decisions. Nicole Kidman acts the role of the ‘most beautiful and most famous woman in the world’ (Senatus, 29th May 2014) which mirrors the title of past Hollywood stars such as Marilyn Monroe. Luhrmann’s production is the biggest marketing investment in the history of the famous brand, the budget estimated at £5.6 million.
The campaign is described my Baz Luhrmann as “like a fairytale where she escapes reality”, this creates In 2003, Baz Luhrmann directed the campaign for Chanel, with an aim to a visual story in which consumers create a collection of advertisements, can escape reality into something truly captivating which presents directed by top movie directors and Chanel No 5 to be far more than featuring well-known actresses. The just a fragrance. The whole storyline production of the film took place and visual concept is reminiscent of in Sydney, Australia and is part of Moulin Rouge, a music hall which a new way of advertising crossover opened in October 1889, soon to films, known as branded content. be known as ‘a temple of music and The technique focuses on blurring dance’ (AviewOnCities). The film what is entertainment and what is concept was developed by Chanel art the actual advertisement. It focuses director Jacques Helleu and director highly on one fundamental aspect, of Photography Mandy Walker who ‘postmodern consumption as an were key contributors for the visual act performed to experience fun, elements within the campaign. fantasies and feelings’. The main The visual appeal is influenced by notion concentrates on a MoulinHollywood glamour (see fig. 3), Rouge inspired film, with aspects of lust and desirability within romance. focused on the consumption of The original Moulin-Rouge storyline paparazzi and fame. Nicole Kidman is brought to life, Kidman’s character is visually suitable for this campaign who represents the epitome of disregards the backing of a rich, glamour and cool, with her classic callous aristocrat for a pauper. look in keeping with the brand. Her Feminism is a brought into context throughout, Nicole Kidman plays the care-free and wild nature is evident also, which mirrors that of Coco role of an actress who seeks to get away from the constraints of society, Chanel, the founder of Chanel.
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Nicole Kidman’s look is visually inspired by Grace Kelly and Audrey Hepburn particularly through her hairstyle which is formed into an up do which is representative of the era and follows the Hollywood glamour style (see fig. 7). The dress worn at the ending scene is highly influenced by the stylistic and sophisticated appeal of Grace Kelly with a long, open back dress which is perfect for that red carpet look at the end shot (see fig. 5). The main costumes worn by Nicole Kidman were designed by Karl Lagerfeld, a head designer and art director of the fashion house Chanel. With his ability to ‘instinctively grasp every molecule from the atmosphere and turn it into the mood of the moment’ (Karl Lagerfeld site). The creative inspirations are taken by designers, Hubert De Givenchy and Roy Halston who are key tastemakers from the 1950s-1970s (see fig. 8+9). Hubert De Givenchy focused on glamorised presentations of ‘the little black dress’ which echoes the style of Chanel, ‘a woman wearing black draws attention to herself, not the dress’ (Corporate Brands). A key trend is visually reflected in the campaign through the Chanel No 5 logo presented in a necklace, draped down Nicole Kidman’s back. The campaign incorporates a trend of the era which was established by the brands creator, Gabrielle Chanel. This is an effective way for Chanel to promote their brand by incorporating elements from the past which were
Fig. 7 Breakfast at Tiffany’s 1961
04 Fig. 5 Grace Kelly 1955
Fig. 6 Audrey Hepburn 1954
Fig. 9 Hubert De Givenchy Dress 1950
“Like a fairytale where she escapes reality” 05
Fig. 8 Roy Halston Dress 1978
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Fig. 10 production of the campaign 2004
“Coco Chanel didn’t build a brand. The brand built around her”
Chanel is renowned for its fragrance, with ‘a bottle of Chanel No 5 sold every 30 seconds’ (Lydia Smith, IB Times, May 29th 2014). The brand is created through sensation. Gabrielle Chanel, the creator of Chanel essentially represents the brand itself, her outlook on life and her personality form the foundation of the brand. This is key in forming success within the brand, as Chanel is shown on a much more personal level. The key characteristics of what she stood for include ‘strength and loving whilst retaining dignity and ambition’ (Corporate brands). This is true of what is depicted in the campaign, particularly the storyline which focuses on ambition and the strength of a woman as the protagonist character. Romanticised storytelling runs throughout and is dignified, following the traits of Coco Chanel herself. The elegance and romance builds an emotional connection with the consumer who would desire this type of lifestyle, therefore will be inclined to buy into the fragrance. The brand is consistent in following its brand values, as each campaign or advert echoes that of the previous. The campaign was placed publicly everywhere, even put onto the channel 4 website due to its ability to act as a piece of entertainment and further capture the public on a broad scale. The film was of course broadcasted on the television as their main source of media attention but was also seen on Youtube and across the internet. The still imagery for the campaign was publicised in magazines such as Vogue, the main magazine behind the Chanel brand. The forms of showcasing the campaign weren’t excessive due to the brand’s credibility, meaning that consumers are encapsulated with ease following Chanel’s popularity.
Fig. 11 Nicole Kidman portrait 2004
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“A land of secrets, dreams and fantasies lies at the heart of a fabulous house that has never stopped beating, still pulsing to the rhythm of the future”
Fig. 14 No. 5 necklace worn by Nicole Kidman 2004
Fig. 12 Coco Chanel portrait 1950
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Chanel as a brand has successfully encapsulated their brand values, ‘Coco Chanel didn’t build a brand, the brand built around her’ (Corporate brands). The campaign starring Nicole Kidman is perfectly in fitting with the brand as it successively follows a collection of campaigns, taking the consumer through a journey into the past but in a modernised way. Therefore, the consumer will be familiar with the brand and taken away from the reality of everyday life, into an emotive story which will lead them to buy into Chanel No 5.
Fig. 13 Chanel No. 5 fragrance 1993
Fig. 15 Scene from campaign 2004
LIST OF REFERENCES
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
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Fig 1: Bud Fraker, (1954), Audrey Hepburn [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.thedivineaddiction.com/ divine/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/ AUhburnglamor1.jpg [Accessed 20 March 2015]
Alina Wheeler, (Unknown) Wordpress, http://https://corporatebrands.wordpress. com/chanel/, 25th March 2015 Biancap, (23rd August 2013) The Official Blog Of Jewlr, http://blog.jewlr.com/ trend-alert-backlace/, 11th March 2015 Duncan Macleod, (1st August 2008) Inspiration Room, http:// theinspirationroom.com/daily/2008/ chanel-no-5-the-film/, 10th March 2015 Dutch private limited company Karl Lagerfeld Retail B.V, (8th May 2013) Karl Lagerfeld, http://www.karl.com/ biography/, 16th March 2015
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Jérôme Gautier. (2011), Chanel: The Vocabulary of Style, Paris: Yale University Press Pam Cook. (7th May 2010), Baz Luhrmann, London: Palgrave Macmillan Stephen Brook, (15th October 2004) The Guardian , http://www.theguardian.com/ media/2004/oct/15/advertising.uknews, 17th March 2015 None, (16th April 2010) NessyMon, http:// nessymon.com/writings/college-writing/ analying-advertising-no-5-the-film/, 13th March 2015 Unknown, (Unknown) BrianAir, http:// https://brianair.wordpress.com/a2-media/ advertising/chanel/, 13th March 2015 Unknown, (Unknown) A View on Cities, http://www.aviewoncities.com/paris/ moulinrouge.htm, 14th March 2015 Von Christina, (15th May 2012) Are U One of Us, http://www.areuoneofus.com/ fashion/and-as-we-just-talked-aboutchanel-%E2%80%B9%E2%80%BA-heresome-more-%E2%80%A6/, 22nd March 2015
Fig 2: Donald McAlpine, (2001), Moulin Rouge dvd artwork [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.starwarped.faketrix.com/ files/other-roles/Ewan-McGregor/MoulinRouge-dvd.jpg [Accessed 14 March 2015] Fig 3: Howell Conant, (1961), Breakfast At Tiffany’s [ONLINE]. Available at: http://1-ps.googleusercontent.com/x/ www.becomegorgeous.com/static. becomegorgeous.com/img/arts/2014/6/ iconic-hairstyles-named-after-celebrities/ gallery_big_audrey_hepburn_updo.jpg [Accessed 21 March 2015]
Fig 10: Mandy Walker + Baz Luhrmann, (2004), Shot from Chanel campaign [ONLINE]. Available at: http:// cliomakeupblog.cliomakeup.netdna-cdn. com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/ chanel_n__5_nicole_kidman_baz_ luhrmann_2697_north_788x429.jpg [Accessed 26 March 2015] Fig 11: Roy Halston Designs, (1978), Halston Dresses [ONLINE]. Available at: http://content.asos-media.com/~/ media/280514060933en-GB/Images/ uk/2014/05/31-saturday/DRESS-FILES/ jerry-hall-eyevine.jpg?mw=398 [Accessed 22 March 2015] Fig 12: Unknown, (1950), Chanel Jewelry Frippery [ONLINE]. Available at: http:// www.fripperyvintage.com/wp-content/ uploads/2013/02/colorpic.jpg [Accessed 24 March 2015]
Fig 4: Howell Conant, (1955), Grace Kelly - Princess of Grace [ONLINE]. Available at: http://blog.faconconnect.com/ wp-content/uploads/2012/05/0824-28grace-kelly-400.jpg [Accessed 15 March 2015]
Fig 13: Unknown, (2004), Fine Jewelry worn by Nicole Kidman [ONLINE]. Available at: https://encrypted-tbn0. gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9 GcTSFJM0_4Z2JikTM2LUhtPNPdXwYpwk7ejaptQrV-0REIbMVQd [Accessed 24 March 2015]
Fig 5: Hubert De Givenchy Couture, (1950), LBD (Little Black Dress) [ONLINE]. Available at: http://blog.fidmmuseum.org /.a/6a01156f47abbe970c0154330e473697 0c-800wi [Accessed 21 March 2015]
Fig 14: Unknown, (1993), No. 5 Parfum Bottle [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www. realstylenetwork.com/beauty/wp-content/ uploads/sites/3/2013/02/chanel-no-5perfume.jpg [Accessed 23 March 2015
Fig 6: Mandy Walker + Baz Luhrmann, (2004), Chanel Nicole Kidman [ONLINE]. Available at: http://cache2.senatus.net/ files/myerscms/senatus_dwNbKs.jpg [Accessed 22 March 2015]
Fig 15: Wallpaper-Kid, (2015), Chanel Wallpaper [ONLINE]. Available at: http://coolbackgroundshd.com/wpcontent/uploads/2014/09/Chanelchanel-89546_1024_768.jpg [Accessed 18th March 2015]
Fig 7: Mandy Walker + Baz Luhrmann, (2007), Chanel No 5 Nicole Kidman [ONLINE]. Available at: https://encryptedtbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9Gc QCdmOpVFD1KlETBw83E6lrHXJbiguVGO NmMd-0YM6D5a83a4kjOQ [Accessed 23 March 2015] Fig 8: Mandy Walker + Baz Luhrmann, (2012), Chanel No.5 with Nicole Kidman [ONLINE]. Available at: https:// glamorousluxurypassion.files.wordpress. com/2012/11/chanel-no-5-2.jpg [Accessed 15 March 2015] Fig 9: Mandy Walker + Baz Luhrmann, (2004), Nicole Kidman Endorsement Chanel No.5 [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.evoketw.com/wp-content/ uploads/2012/11/87.jpg [Accessed 16 March 2015]
BIBLIOGRAPHY http://www.adweek.com/news/ advertising-branding/brand-day-chanelno-5-finds-new-muse-stunning-gisele-bndchen-160805 http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/article/ TMG11161939/Exclusive-Baz-Luhrmannon-his-Chanel-No.5-ad.html http://www.givenchy.com/en/ http://perfumeshrine.blogspot. co.uk/2009/05/chanel-no5-through-years. html http://www.vogue.com/tag/designer/ halston/ http://www.vogue.co.uk/person/karllagerfeld
CAMPAIGN URL: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l_ysEsjJVsI