Gavroche Issue 6 by Alex Wilk

GAVROCHE Luxury Magazine Issue 7 August 2016

A CENTURY OF SUPERCARS The Classic and Sports Car Show Preview

THE 4 MILLION DOLLAR ARGYLE VIOLET DIAMOND

WORLD’S FINEST LUXURY HOTELS

Argyle Mine’s largest Violet Diamond Discovered 1

Eco-Friendly Lifestyle Brand

/wellicious wellicious.com

CONTENTS Summer 2016

C U LTU R E T H E H I S T O RY A RT A ND F A S H I O N... 8

EC ON OMY I S B RE X I T P O S I T I V E F O R L UX URY ... 1 0

R AR E C OLOU R ED DIAMON DS T H E S T O RY O F A RG Y L E P I NK D I A M O ND S ... 1 2

PH ILAN TH R OP Y E M E RG I NG T RE ND S I N B RI T I S H P H I L A NT H RO P Y ... 16

PH OTOGR AP H Y GRA I N I S G O O D ... 1 8

IN VESTIN G A GUI D E T O B UY I NG C O L O URE D D I A M O ND S ... 2 2

C AR S A CE NT URY O F S UP E RC A RS , C L A S S I C C A R S H O W P RE V I EW . . . 26

TR AVEL T H E W O RL D â&#x20AC;&#x2122;S F I NE S T L UX URY H O T E L S ... 3 0

EDITOR ‘S NOTE Welcome to the Summer Edition of Gavroche Luxury magazine. Gavroche Luxury is proud to be celebrating the arrival of Summer by bringing our readers an exciting mix of articles and reports relating to high end luxury , including Art & Fashion, Photography, Watches, The Brexit impact on luxury, diamond investing, philanthropy and the upcoming classic and sports car show. . FOUND ER & ED I T OR - I N - C H IEF M a r t i n Gar v ey

E DITOR

In this issue will take an in depth look at the relationship between art and fashion, including historical collaborations between famous artists and luxury brands.

Ni ge lla Wi ngate G r ay

CONT RI B UT I NG ED I T OR D a n n i Land a

COP Y WRI T ER D a n i e l Sp enc e-A gnew

Our new contributing editor Samantha Thorne will be profiling the resurgence of analogue photography in her Grain is good feature. In our watches section Ulysse Nardin’s rich seafaring heritage will be celebrated with the unveiling of its newest creation in it’s Diver family of ocean-faring timepieces.

COP Y WRI T ER M a r i e-Anne Ham i l ton

COP Y WRI T ER H i la ry Cr ane

COP Y WRI T ER S a m a n t ha T h or ne

We will also be covering investing in rare coloured diamonds including the recently discovered and extremely rare Argyle Violet diamond and profiling what to look for when investing in rare coloured diamonds. In our philanthropy section we will be looking at the emerging trends in British Philanthropy and new ways of giving, including social impact and venture philanthropy.

D IR E C T OR OF CREA T I V E OP ER ATION S A ND P HOT OG RA PHY M i ch e lle B eesti ng

In our family offices section we will be examining how family offices are preparing for the Great Wealth Transfer to the next generation and the changes that may bring.

G RA P H I C D ESI GN M i c h e lle B eesti ng

We will also be reviewing some of the implications of the recent Brexit Vote on the luxury industry.

A RT DI RECT OR A le xa n d r a W i l k

M O T IO N G RA PHI CS & V I DEO DESIGN ER M a r i o Ar i sm end y

H E A D O F SA LES

Last but by no means least we are pleased to announce our media collaboration with the classic and sports car show which will be taking place in October. We take a look at the show’s central theme of a century of supercars by looking at some of the most iconic classic and sports cars of the 20th century.

E rn e s t M oh ed r ano Gar c i a De Vicu n a

P U B L ISHER M G DS M ed i a L td . w w w . mgd sgr oup.c om T E L : +44 208 432 2819

G A V R OCHE MA GA ZI NE w w w . ga vr oc hel uxur y.c om T E L : +44 203 637 2848

For the convenience of our readers Gavroche Luxury Magazine is now available to read and download on digital media boxes on luxury airlines and hotels and we look forward to providing our readers with many more ways to enjoy future editions of Gavroche Luxury Magazines on their global travels. I would like to thank our creative team and our writers for once again doing an incredible job and of course our growing readership for their ongoing support.

Nigella Windgate Gray, Editor 5

Art and Fashion Art and Fashion go hand in hand. Numerous collaborations between luxury brands and the arts throughout the years have contributed to the establishment of a close and mutually beneficial relationship between those two disciplines. While artists can offer brands innovative and unconventional view on design, catwalks or shop set-ups, fashion provides young artists in turn with huge exposure to the public. Luxury fashion especially has always been tightly intertwined with the arts from collaborative collections to things like the insanely popular Alexander McQueen exhibition Savage Beauty. Today we want to take a look at some of the manifestations of this union more closely.

Commercial Art

Fashion illustrations by Rene Gruau and Antonio Lopez

he romance between arts and fashion started a long, long time ago. The beginning of 20th century was marked by the rise of fashion illustration. From Paul Iribes collaboration with the legendary French couturier Paul Poiret and Christian Brards elegant drawings of Chanel dresses to Warhols and Lopezs vibrant and daring paintings, fashion illustration has since then remained a very powerful tool of visual communication.

Even though there are lots of debates whether fashion illustration should be considered a true form of art or not, many artists and their drawings are well recognised and showcased in the most prestigious museums and galleries around the globe. Around the same time, during the early 1900s, fashion embraced another form of upcoming art photography. In 1911, Edward Steichen took photos of garments designed by Poiret. The same year Art et

Dcoration magazine published these photos, this could be considered the very first fashion photoshoot. Steichen offered a new perspective on fashion: the gowns on the photographs were presented as pieces of art rather than just a formal clothing. Today, fashion photography is considered to be the most commercial form of contemporary art by far. At the same time, it is the most publically accessible one.

Haute Couture collection Haute couture itself is nothing else but a fusion of fashion and art. It traces its roots to back to the 19th century. Charles Frederick Worth, the founder of the House of Worth, is generally accepted as the very first haute couturier. Paul Poiret, and later Coco Chanel, Christian Dior and Cristobal Balenciaga followed the same path and opened their own couture houses soon after. Haute couture was born from an aspiration for unexcelled quality and the most sophisticated designs; it was and still is powered by the desire to have a wearable piece of art in your closet. It is a pure art for all intents and purposes since the functionality is not in the forefront Most of the garments are designed for the catwalk only. We can draw a parallel between fashion and other forms of arts, such as sculpture or painting, where certain works are created to be showcased at the exhibitions, while other ones are intended for home decorations only. More than 150 years later, the coutures offering still remains the same: it is not just a beautiful clothing, but supreme quality, innovation, imaginative design, and the most exquisite craftsmanship.

Yves Saint Lauren Fall Mondrian Collection From modern to pop and street art, brands still find their inspiration in paintings, drawings, sculptures. In 2012, Louis Vuitton, famous for its long-term work relationship with Takashi Murakami, created a collab collection with another Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama. Known for her use of polka dots, she gave a new extravagant twist to the brands classics. Just a few days ago, during the Dior Homme Summer 2017 collection show, the brand presented a black denim jacket with stunning embroidery, reproduced from Toru Kamei paintings.

Artistic collaborations Fashion is deeply in love with arts, there is no doubt about that. In 1937, Elsa Schiaparelli and Salvador Dali created a their famed surreal Lobster dress. In 1951 Dali collaborated with Dior for the Ball of the Century, hosted by Charles de Beistegui in Venice. Art has always been a great source of inspiration for fashion designers. In 1965 Yves Saint Lauren unveiled his new collection, heavily inspired by Piet Mondrians paintings. A-line dresses with linear vivid prints were well received by the public and opened the whole world for the fusion of fashion and art.

Elsa Schiaparelli and Salvador Dali created a their famed surreal Lobster dress, 1937.

As fashion and arts become intertwined together more and more, it is not surprising at all that top luxury brands take on the role of prestigious art patrons. Before becoming a legend in the fashion world, Christian Dior introduced for the first time Salvador Dalis paintings to the French public. At that time, Dior and his friend Jacques Bonjean owned an art gallery and were focused on showcasing Surrealist artists, such as Pablo Picasso and Juan Miro. Nowadays, almost every luxury fashion house has its own foundation, which is, in most cases, itself a piece of art.

Is Brexit Positive for Luxury?

e are now in the Brexit political and economic twilight zone, but what does this mean for the luxury industry and the wider UK economy. Although the negotiation period could have an effect on short-term world markets, the hospitality industry is well positioned during this time according to John Brennan, CEO of Amaris hospitality; The weakened pound has lead to increased bookings making Britain now much cheaper for foreign luxury travellers. With the current exchange rate of $ 1.35 to 1 compared to $ 1.57 before, many American visitors have already placed autumn bookings.

Burberry Louis Vuitton Although much depends on the outcome of new agreements with the EU , the impact on the luxury industry is still positive. While there are concerns about the potential increase in the costs of Burberry sourcing materials from Europe, the weaker currency and increased sales volume from the influx of Asian, American and European bargain hunters looking to stock up on luxury brand items at reduced rates will more than offset any materials concerns. Louis Vuitton says 22% of its 2015 sales were invoiced in European currency for 2015 sales, while 32% of its sales were in dollars, meaning that its status as a brand is not led by Europe. According to Shanghai Daily Chinese

shoppers spent $183bn on shopping sprees abroad last year. The news source also reported a dramatic increase in bookings to the UK following news of the referendum, with most tour packages to the UK now sold out for this summer.

Jaguar Land Rover Although Jaguar Land Rover (JLR) supported the Remain Campaign, the premium luxury car manufacturer is not letting the grass grow under its feet and the weakened pound has not halted business in any way, shape or form. In fact a brand spokesman commented We will work hard with all parties to ensure that the importance of the British automotive industry is fully understood at every level of the negotiation process. Research has also shown that the weakening of the pound could actually have a positive effect on the automaker. The company cites the recent example of Toyotas North America profits more than doubling after the brand made the most of a weak Yen and demand in North America. We were confident in the earnings outlook JLR Proposed referendum on United Kingdom membership of the European Union before and would have more confidence in an environment where a depressed GBP continues

Diageo and Pernot Ricard Prior to the vote for Leave, Diageo chief executive Ivan Menezes urged employers to vote to remain in the EU, with Menezes talking about the bene11

fit of free trade agreements and easy access to the European market. However, the vote for Leave hasnt necessarily been all negative for the brand so far. Its shares were up 2.08% today (27 June) and Credit Suisse analysts said before the referendum that suppliers of Scottish whiskey could benefit from a weaker pound. That could boost Diageo and its Johnnie Walker brand and Pernod Ricard's Chivas Regal. Bloomberg's Intelligence analyst Duncan Fox, has also said that scotch whiskey suppliers shipped $5.8bn of product last year, making it one of the top 10 exports. He said that the UK currency weakness may help short term, stimulating demand, particularly before trade-tariff talks start. In addition, Tom McGuire, partner for commercial & technology for Taylor Vinters Inward Investment, said that businesses should not be afraid of companies wanting to invest in the UK either, as in the short term leaving the EU is unlikely to make the UK less attractive to companies looking to expand overseas. We expect to see a steady stream of companies from Europe and further afield still making inward investment into the UK and setting up offices here, he said. Carney said the Bank's nine-member monetary policy committee, which sets interest rates, faces a trade-off between stabilising inflation, which could be stoked by a weaker pound, and shoring up growth and jobs. But he erred on the side of supporting growth with lower borrowing costs. In my view, and I am not prejudging the views of the other independent MPC members, the economic outlook has deteriorated and some monetary policy easing will likely be required over the summer, Carney said in the speech to bankers and business leaders. Phil Shaw a UK economist and fund manager at Investec said the Bank was likely to supplement a rate cut with other measures, including an expansion of the funding for lending scheme that supports bank and building society mortgage lending.

The story of Argyle pink diamonds DIAMONDS WERE FIRST FOUND IN AUSTRALIA IN THE 1850S, BUT IT TOOK MORE THAN A CENTURY BEFORE THE SEARCH BEGAN IN EARNEST.

eep in the heart of Western Australias majestic east Kimberley region lay a hidden treasure for over a billion years. Diamonds were first found in Australia in the 1850s, but it took more than a century before the search began in earnest. Looking for diamonds in the rugged and isolated corner of Australia was a job for modern pioneers. It took seven years of hope, despair, joy and frustration as geologists combed the Kimberley region of Western Australia, an area the size of Texas, before the first signs of real success were encountered. Four small diamonds in a dry creek bed eventually led Rio Tinto geologists to uncover the Argyle mine, the world's only consistent supply of the extraordinary pink, red, blue and violet diamonds. The Argyle pink diamond story has continued to enthral throughout the years that followed the remarkable discovery of the Argyle mine. The rarity of the Argyle gems and their intense colour

An Argyle pink diamond is graded foremost on colour â&#x20AC;&#x201C; its value determined by the intensity of colour.

and energy continues to excite passions amongst all who see and handle them, from the miners who unearth them, to the craftsmen who meticulously shape and polish them, to the exultant buyers who take them home. Unlike colourless diamonds, an Argyle pink diamond is graded foremost on colour its value determined by the intensity of colour. The deeper, more intense the colour, the rarer, more valuable, desirable and ultimately more collectible is the diamond. The significance of a very small number of red and violet diamonds from the Argyle mine cannot be underestimated and their mysterious alchemy has taken these wonders of nature to a new level of fascination and seduction. To put this rarity into perspective, of the approximately 20 million carats of diamonds produced from the Argyle Diamond Mine, less than 1% are pink. These exquisite diamonds are so rare that less than an entire years worth of Argyle pink diamonds would fit in the palm of your hand, while the number of red, blue and violet diamonds can be counted on the fingers of one hand. As a pink diamond is some 20 times more valuable than its white

equivalent, the process of preparing it for sale is a highly specialised one. The art of diamond cutting is particularly significant in the case of Argyle's pink, blue, red and violet diamonds, so difficult to cut, an art that Argyle has refined and perfected to bring out the true beauty, light and colour of these delectable stones. A small team of highly trained artisans describe how they spend time listening to the stone before deciding how best to unlock its colour and brilliance. The im-

portance of their judgement cannot be underestimated: the cut can affect the fire or scintillation of the diamond, while colour may be lost if too much of the diamond is polished away. Shaped with such artistry and passion, it is no wonder these diamonds fascinate like no other.

www.beulahlondon.com

Emerging trends in British

and impacts on beneficiaries, such as improved well being or self-esteem.

h Philanthropy

eritocratic philanthropy has given rise to a new breed of charitable donor, one who is younger, typically self-made and socially conscious. These new philanthropists are willing to invest a significant amount of capital and take significant risks to test new models and ideas. It is because they are private individuals that they are able to take risks that government and many foundations, who are accountable to other stakeholders cannot. Here we take a look at the emerging trends amongst the new generation of British philanthropists. Giving while living Rather than leave a one-off legacy, new philanthropists get to experience the joy of giving and of the relationships that they develop with charities and staff members, beneficiaries and other donors. More people are talking publicly about their philanthropic work thereby providing publicity and paving the way for new givers. A Different Legacy Especially among the self-made, more individuals are choosing to give much of their wealth back to society, through either legacies or lifetime giving. They will provide for their children, but charity is also important. Social Impact Giving Donors are increasingly looking for real and measurable results from their giving. Donors are also demanding increased accountability and transparency from charities. They want to be confident that their money is being used both effectively and efficiently. This involves measurable outcomes 17

Collective Giving New funding vehicles such as ARK ,the Private Equity foundation and the funding network are mimicking the crowdfunding business model by providing an opportunity for pooled donations and shared learning amongst charitable donors. Venture Philanthropy Philanthropists are embracing new ways of giving, such as venture philanthropy. They also are utilising new types of charity financing including loans and equity to support charities and social enterprises, filling a gap in the funding market. Meanwhile, charitable banks have been established, enabling social investors to help disadvantaged communities to achieve sustainable economic growth. Private Banking and Philanthropy There is a growing infrastructure of charities and professional service firms to support and promote effective giving, and to help new and existing donors to take a more informed and strategic approach to giving. Meanwhile, private banks are expanding philanthropy services to their high net-worth clients. Information and resources New online resources, such as the Charity Commission's Register of Charities, Guidestar UK and Intelligent Giving, as well as research into different areas of charitable activity and tailored advisory services for donors from NPC and Geneva Global. Individual giving Newly wealthy individuals represent a new and potentially significant income source. Importantly, private individuals provide charities with unrestricted, sustainable and predictable income. They also play a critical role in maintaining the independence of the voluntary sector, especially as more charities are delivering public services on behalf of government.

Grain is Good Simultaneously innovative and nostalgic. Why analogue photography is making a comeback. words | samantha thorne

“I think we can produce some substantially important work if we just step back and realise what our roots are” I remember that click of the shutter and the flash that would temporarily blind us as small children, when dad would whip out his Canon AE-1 and try to capture a moment. The days when curiosity would lead me to my mother’s dresser drawers filled with mementos from times past. I’d find myself thumbing frantically through Polaroids, slides and negatives, holding them up against the light. In the event of holding a tangible memory in my hands, I had gained an appreciation for analogue photography – an appreciation that may now seem oddly placed in a world where digital photography is the norm. With the emergence of digital photography, times clearly changed and in turn, so did our relationship with images. Having printed film images on hand to pass around and share is an experience that feels almost obsolescent; to plug in a USB and watch images glide across a screen is now the standard. While digital photography clearly maintains its dominance in the marketplace, more and more there appears to be a film revival, a renaissance if you will. Who are these aficionados keeping film alive

and why on earth are they doing it? To explore this, I tracked down three Sydney analogue photographers. I notice a couple of things when I arrive at Enrico Scotece’s Marrickville lab and studio Think Negative: one – it’s definitely not what you’d expect and two – Enrico isn’t the quiet type that I envisaged when I saw photos of him on the internet. Instead, he talks very feverishly, passionately and emphatically about what he describes as his ‘life’s work,’ all the while maintaining a very welcoming and peaceful demeanour. I become curious as to why he started Think Negative in 2007, he states that, “the internet was killing me… I truly believed that I was listening to a lot of rubbish unintentionally,” pointing to the counterproductive tendency of individuals to use the online space to bicker and complain rather than focusing on what it is that they love, “I was thinking, ‘all these people, could they just shut up about this digital Vs. film thing – they’re two parallel mediums, go do something with them, who cares?’” 18

Enrico makes a solid point; the digital Vs. film debate is well documented online and the reason for taking up film isn’t and shouldn’t be one bound by a sanctimonious contempt for technology, but rather an appreciation for ‘slow photography’ or ‘slow art’ in a world of instant gratification and the ability to manifest ‘perfection’ so easily, there seems to be a movement away from reliance on technology, which is a clear signifier that people are nostalgic for both craftsmanship and authenticity. Qualities such as these can very easily feel absent within digital processes. When I pick up a camera and do something I know there is a whole other process behind it and it doesn’t have to involve sitting in front of a Mac and visiting fourteen other websites in between. I suggest that maybe there are just too many distractions. Absolutely, he says, when I edit a photo, I go into a darkroom and I don’t come out until it’s done. I tell Enrico that I have noticed a resurgence in analogue photography. Yeah, he agrees, adding that he feels it has a lot to do with an increasing curiosity about the roots of photography in general. One way to improve in seeing and creating, he says, is by learning the process. What does this mean for film photographers as a collective? I think we can produce some substantially important work if we just step back and realise what our roots are. The next day, on a warm and gusty Saturday morning, I make my way out

to Maroubra to meet with David Collier, an avid traveller and film photographer whose body of work communicates a quintessential and nostalgic representation of what it must be like to grow up in Sydney’s eastern suburbs. Upon entering David’s apartment, I notice a wall of shelves swarming with quite the collection of film cameras, my eyes widen, David laughs and tells

“I was thinking, ‘all these people, could they just shut up about this digital Vs. film thing – they’re two parallel mediums, go do something with them, who cares?’”

“People are nostalgic for both craftsmanship and authenticity” me that he’s known in his local area as ‘that camera guy’ and is often sought out by elderly people as a worthy beneficiary of old cameras they no longer use. I sit down at David’s dining table and while he’s chatting away making me a cup of tea, I feel vaguely distracted. I’m recalling Enrico’s sentiments about analogue having an array of creative possibilities and the rewards you reap from its drawn out process. You see, a large portion of David’s body of work is underwater film photography not something that you often have the opportunity to see or appreciate; it’s an approach that takes a lot of ‘guesswork,’ as David puts it. His work is a result of steady, passionate determination and paying particular attention to how the light reacts and refracts in an underwater environment. David’s computer and workspace is clut-

“it’s not instantaneous, it’s not instant gratification – it takes time.”

tered with images, cameras and projects, he doesn’t come across as someone who only picked up film photography four years ago, but rather someone who has been submerged in it as an art form for a very, very long time. He tells me that taking up film photography is something that has actually made him better at shooting digital, slowing down means that he had to really think about the framing of things. When David recounts the lengths he goes to in an attempt to achieve a beautiful underwater shot, I ask him why he bothers and his response exemplifies this concept of a curiosity in ‘slow art’, he contemplates and notes that, living in a digital age, people want to go back to more retro things. He makes a real point of stating that, it’s not instantaneous, it’s not instant gratification it takes time. The last analogue photographer I meet is Johnny Merkouris. We communicate via email for a couple of weeks; at one point he even thinks my name is Sarah, I don’t get offended by it and just remind myself that hey, he’s probably a really busy guy and whilst precise recognition can be nice, artistry doesn’t always mean accuracy. Johnny suggests we meet at the trendy Surry Hills caf Reuben Hills due to miscommunication, he is running late. I find myself feeling out of place and unprepared, for I have no idea what Johnny looks like and my arrival seems to have converged with an online dating meet-up where two separate men approach me and ask me if my name is ‘Amy.’ In the meantime, the crowds of

singles have made it impossible to grab a table. I stand haphazardly between a group of girls who are wearing Alexander Wang shoes and a garden bed that smells like urine. Just as I start perusing a Google image search of Johnny so that I can try to utilise my inbuilt facial recognition skills, I see a guy who fits his description chaining a bike to a post. Does he look Greek? Tick. Plaid shirt looks promising. Are you Johnny? I ask. Yes. Great, let’s go elsewhere, this place is packed. On our way to a comparatively quieter and less cool caf, I observe Johnny’s style of communication. Very measured, very thoughtful, accepting and quite enigmatic quite strangely, the epithets I would probably use to describe his photography. I use the word ‘accepting’ because Johnny seems to be at peace with the film process, divulging that part of the reason why he loves film photography is due to the more than likely event that it’s not going to turn out the way you wanted it to, which happens all the time. I propose the idea of ‘slow art’, it’s rewarding he says, the work that goes into it , highlighting that digital only emphasises the art behind film photography. It has a quality that you just don’t get with digital. I suspect that this quality Johnny talks about isn’t just due to the way it looks, but it’s also the process, the time and the effort, something that he is well acquainted with, having travelled to remote areas around the world to capture landscapes and cultures via an analogue

medium for a series he has called Diespeiro, Greek for, ‘I spread, I scatter.’ Johnny alludes to the resurgence in film photography occurring due to an interest in slower, deliberate and more thoughtful ways of doing things, it makes you put more thought into what you’re doing, whereas with digital, it’s boundless. The growing popularity of film photography evokes a certain nostalgia about a non-instantaneous, hands-on, bona fide way of expression that is deeply entrenched in patience, which is arguably analogue’s biggest appeal. Sarah Coleman, blogger from The Literate Lens, says rather poignantly, Over the last fifteen years, almost every photographer I’ve interviewed has waxed poetic about that magical experience of seeing an image develop in chemicals for the first time. You have to wonder whether today’s young photographers will rhapsodize as

much about the first time they color-calibrated their monitors. In the words of Enrico, How boring is that?!

Buying Coloured Diamonds

Extravagant and rare, coloured diamonds are highly sought after by jewellery lovers and collectors around the world. In recent years, pink diamond engagement rings had made headlines in record breaking auctions and are often worn by the world’s most famous celebrities. If you had been captivated by their mesmerizing colour and want to buy a natural fancy coloured diamond here are a few pointers which will help you make the right decision. check for treated or synthetic stones. Instruments like the Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectrometer and extremely advanced analytical equipment.

Steer Away From Deals That Are Too Good to be True

Essential Shopping Tips for Coloured Diamonds When it comes to buying natural coloured diamonds, you need to exercise caution and be wary of synthetic/treated diamonds in the market. It’s imperative that you buy from a reputable dealer and verify that the diamond you are interested in is a natural fancy colour diamond. One of the most common lab treatments performed on diamonds is taking cheap brown-coloured diamonds and treating them with high pressure and high temperature in order to change their colour to a wide variety of copies of natural fancy diamond colours. If you do buy these diamonds, know that they are much cheaper than natural fancy colours precisely because they are created from the cheapest of the cheap diamonds. Diamonds can come in a variety of colours. The chart below (from Page 12 of “Forever

Brilliant: The Aurora Collection of Coloured Diamonds”) is an excellent graphical display of the variety of colours in which diamonds can be found.

It is crucial that you make sure to buy your fancy colour diamond from a company with a verified expertise in the fancy colour market – otherwise, you are sure to pay far more for your diamond than you would normally. Unlike white diamonds whose prices are all grounded in the Rapaport price list where the underlying fundamental basis for a diamond’s price is universally agreed upon between buyers and sellers. In the fancy coloured diamond market there is no price list and prices are established the old fashioned way – through a fluid market reaching an equilibrium between buyers and sellers. Each stone has its own value that is determined by so many factors (shape, certified colour, actual colour, modifying colours, size, clarity, etc) that pricing fancy colours is more of an art form than anything else. With the exception, perhaps, of fancy yellow diamonds, every fancy colour diamond is completely unique. So it’s very difficult to compare prices between different stones. Furthermore, there is very little competition in the fancy colour diamond market. For every 100 wholesale white diamond vendors, there might be 1 or 2 wholesale fancy diamond vendors.

Buy Only GIA Graded Diamonds When it comes to fancy coloured diamonds, the only way to ensure your protection as a consumer is to buy diamonds graded by GIA (Gemological Institute of America). You should view coloured diamonds graded by any other labs with suspicion. Diamonds with dubious certificates are “cheaper” because their qualities are often misrepresented. As a random example, EGL may grade a diamond as fancy pink BUT the same stone may only be graded as a fancy light pink by GIA. Obviously, this translates into a massive difference in value! Besides inaccurate grading, other labs may not have the proper analytical equipment to 23

GIA uses an FTIR spectrometer to identify diamond types.

The Kimberley Process - Buying Conflict Free

Where’s The Best Place to Buy Coloured Diamonds?

The Kimberley Process is an international certification scheme that regulates trade in rough diamonds. It aims to prevent the flow of conflict diamonds, while helping to protect legitimate trade in rough diamonds. Although the Kimberley Process does not certify individual jewellers, you should only buy from suppliers that can guarantee that their diamonds are conflict-free.

When it comes to fancy coloured diamonds, no one does it better than Argyle Diamonds in Australia, they are the world’s leading mine who specialise in natural coloured pink and violet diamonds. Interacting with Actual Photographed Diamonds in 3HD Some Vendors offer detailed 360 degree videos at 15X or higher magnification for their inventory. This means you can truly see and

understand the diamond’s beauty, shape, cut, color, clarity and sparkle like never before. Whether you are buying a pink diamond for investment purposes or as a gift to someone special, it is actually a good time to make a purchase now. With scarce supply and the pending closure of Australia’s Argyle Mine (which accounts for more than 90% of the world’s supply), their value is likely to go up in near future. Hopefully, this write up has given you a better idea of what to expect and what to look out for. By shopping smart, it is possible for you to find the perfect diamond.

The Great Wealth Transfer

Baby boomers and people who create or inherit substantial wealth tend to want to preserve and grow it, to secure their families’ future and, often, to fulfil philanthropic desires. Invariably, they also wish to maintain a distance between personal and business matters, while controlling their affairs flexibly and maintaining maximum confidentiality. The family office arrangement is one way of meeting these aspirations. Recent research published by Ernst and Young states that “Family offices are arguably he fastest-growing investment vehicles in the world today… there are at least 3,000 single family offices in existence globally and at least half of these were set up in the last 15 years. Although this is not specific to the UK, it gives insight into the level of activity in this market in recent years. In terms of the overall collective wealth between single family offices and multi-family offices, in October 2015, Reuters reported that “The-family office industry managed about £22 trillion globally”. Add in the recent trend of struggling hedge funds returning outside capital to investors and converting to single family offices. This follows a handful of hedge fund industry titans — including Stanley Druckenmiller, George Soros, and Steve Cohen — who have

been running their firms as family offices in recent years. The financial crisis of 2007 and 2008 caused a loss of capital severe enough to cause wealthy families all over the world to start taking control of managing their own assets, and many looked to London to establish family offices. In August 2008, the Financial Times reported: “More than 300 ultra-rich families with assets over £100m each have set up their own private offices in London to protect and enhance their wealth in the financial services sector’s newest trend…” If you are an advisor serving a wealthy family, you might be excited about the long-term prospects of advising the family as the wealth transfers to the next generation then you may be in for a surprise. Studies have shown that when wealth changes hands as it’s passed down to the younger generation, that younger generation is likely to relieve the existing financial advisor and replace with an advisor of their choosing. That is just a minor inconvenience for the financial advisory business typically but the UK is poised for a massive wealth transfer as the baby boomer generation transfers assets to their Generation X and millennial descendants. This long-term trend creates a significant 25

problem for family office advisors and other financial advisors that face the prospects of losing long-standing clients. Importantly, we’re talking about a massive wealth transfer of £22 trillion in assets so this is a big deal for those financial advisors relying on affluent private clients like these in question. “Studies regularly show that when wealth passes to another generation, in the majority of cases, the heirs change financial advisors,” said Gauthier Vincent, head of Deloitte’s U.S. Wealth Management practice. “The relationship between assets, asset owners and financial advisors is unravelling before our eyes.” How advisory firms deal with this long-term trend will determine which succeed in the future and which falter. As the ‘great wealth transfer’ accelerates — the oldest boomers are now 70 years old— the strengths of some business models will become more apparent and the weaknesses of others more glaring. “This is a fascinating time from a competitive perspective,” said Vincent. “There’s going to be winners and losers, and market shares will shift.” He added, “This industry will be very fluid in the next decade.”

A Century of Supercars What’s the greatest supercar of the last 100 years? Lamborghini Countach or LaFerrari? Mercedes 300SL ‘Gullwing’ or McLaren F1? There’s only one way to find out: visit The Classic & Sports Car Show this autumn. That’s because The Show is launching ‘A Century of Supercars’, a global poll to name the greatest supercar of all time and the winner will be revealed at Alexandra Palace from 28th 30th October in a show-stopping centerpiece. With the Lamborghini Miura celebrating its 50th anniversary in 2016, supercars are in the spotlight, but the concept and, contrary to popular opinion the very term first used in a 1920 Ensign Six advert goes back way further. Experts from Classic & Sports Car Show have picked three leading contenders from each era/decade that enthusiasts can vote on in a huge online poll. The game-changing contenders vying for victory include the Mercedes 60hp, Alfa Romeo 8C 2900, monstrous Metallurgique, sublime Ferrari 250GT SWB, fiery Ferrari F40 and record-breaking Bugatti Veyron to name just a handful of pioneering machines.

Up to 1914 Panhard et Levassor

1914-1929 Bentley 4.5 Blower

1930s Bugatti Type 57SC

1940s Jaguar XK120

1950s Ferrari 166 Barchetta

1960s Ford GT40

1970s Porsche 911 Turbo

1980s Porsche 959

1990s McLaren F1

The Gavroche Luxury List of the World’s Finest Luxury Hotels

La Mamounia – Marrakech, ‘ Morocco The quality of the craftsmanship and sheer opulence of this most palatial of hotels will quite simply take your breath away. The ancient building was lovingly rebuilt in 2010 under the watchful eye of Parisian architect and designer Jacques Garcia, who recruited the very finest local painters, carpenters and artists to restore the bygone glory to the 1920’s building. Using their expertise and knowledge of the Berber and Moroccan artistic styles, they brought the building back 30

to life. It is now recognised as one of the finest hotels in Morocco, regularly winning awards for excellence. Situated in the very heart of Marrakech, it offers spectacular view over the Atlas Mountains and also boasts one of the most luxurious spas in the city.

II Salviatino – Florence , Italy This spectacular 15th century palazzo stands majestically on the hillside of Fiesole, offering unforgettable views of the city and across the glorious Tuscan landscape. Its elegant rooms and suites are all individually decorated, and awash with fabulous artwork. A sense of calm and serenity pervades throughout. The fine dining restaurant offers excellent Italian cuisine, and despite its remote mountainside location, it is a mere 10 minutes by car to reach the city itself and the wonderful Florentine landmarks such as the iconic cathedral.

Wentworth Mansion – Charleston, United States of America Stepping in the refined luxury of the Wentworth Mansion is like entering a bygone age where splendour and glamour were the order of the day. The 21 room building pays homage to traditional Charleston charm, with hand crafted marble fireplaces, resplendent antiques and showstopping chandeliers dominating each and every room. The family owned hotel sits in the centre of this most charming city, which is steeped in legend and tradition. History lovers will delight in the wonderful museums and galleries located throughout the city, and sun seekers can head to one of the many beautiful beaches close by.

Perivolas - Santorini, Greece Santorini is surely the jewel in the crown of the Greek islands. The azure waters of the Aegean Sea and breathtaking scenery of this idyllic island can be viewed from no better spot than the vaulted suites of Perivolas, an intoxicating and captivating hotel which has been built into the cliffside of Oia, high above Santorini’s caldera. These 300 year old caves offer an oasis of peace and tranquillity and have been beautifully transformed into a stunning selection of individual suites and villas. The romantic and charming town of Oia is just a short walk away should you be able to drag yourself away from your cliffside hideaway, or you can choose to dine in the residents only restaurant, an ancient wine cellar which has been converted into a fabulous fine dining venue.

Mukul Beach – Guacalito de la Isla, Nicaragua Situated on the spectacular Emerald Coast of Nicaragua, this sprawling resort incorporates five star luxury and style within its 37 freestanding villas, bohios, spa and golf course. Set amongst the wondrous Nicaraguan jungle and overlooking the coastline of this most beautiful stretch of shore, it is a magical and captivating setting. Golf fanatics will be in heaven with the David McLay Kidd signature ocean side 18-hole course which is set amongst tropical gardens and the greenest lawns you could ever imagine. If you choose to simply relax and revive your senses in the luxuriant surroundings of the resort, why not sample some of the legendary local Flor de Caña rum, or take a moment to reflect in the exquisite spa. Should you wish to seek a little adventure, take a short helicopter ride to discover neighbouring island and majestic volcanoes.

Baur au Lac – Zurich, Switzerland. The Baur au Lac hotel in Zurich has been welcoming the most discerning of customers for over 170 years, who return time after time to enjoy the magnificent views across the vast lake and the Swiss Alps. Zurich has long been a favourite destination for elite travellers who adore this elegant city, steeped in culture and history. The hotel itself was in fact the venue for the very first performance of Wagner’s Die Walküre, and to this day attracts an eclectic group of visitors, including royalty as well as actors and musicians who come to appreciate the view, the private lakeshore park, and the close proximity to Zurich’s many amenities.

Palacio Nazarenas – Cusco, Peru This multiple award winning hotel is set in a restored 16th century convent, and has been transformed into a world class luxury residence. Within its walls of Inca stone, no expense has been spared and the attention to detail in every part of the luxurious palacio is immediately apparent. Located just behind the main square of the bustling town of Cusco, the hotel offers an oasis of tranquillity and five star excellence. Your private butler will be on hand during your stay to assist you with any special requirements and each of the 55 exquisite suites are enriched with fresh oxygen, to assist you to acclimatise to the high altitude of Cusco.

Perivolas - Santorini, Greece 33

La Mamounia – Marrakech, ‘ Morocco 34

Claridges, London, England. This iconic, art deco hotel sets the benchmark for class, style and elegance in London. Built in 1856, the hotel retains many of its original features which have been carefully and elegantly maintained for generations. The hotel prides itself on impeccable, flawless service and nothing here is too much trouble, with a team of concierge staff on hand to assist you with your every want and desire. Located in the heart of this most vibrant city, the designer boutiques of Bond Street and Mayfair are just a few minutes walk away. The hotel has attracted the city's movers and shakers since the heady days of the 1920's, and continues to do so today, effortlessly combining modern day style with old school glamour. 35

I M P O SS I B LY R A R E

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