GAVROCHE Magazine
Issue 1 September 2014
Luxury has never been so good: Meet the fashion pioneers who combine a love of style with their vision for an ethical world
ALSO INSIDE: The most alluring marinas in the world Classic cars Art meets fashion
Contents September 2014
Y A CH T S T H E LEAD ING MARINAS . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
G OU R M E T FINE D INING AND REST AURANT S . . . . 11
CA R S C OVE R S T ORY : E TH I CA L
REVIVAL O F T H E C LASSIC C AR . . . . . . 18
LUXU RY B RA N DS . . . . 8
COR P OR AT E S OCIA L R E S P ON S IBIL IT Y
F O UND ER & EDI TOR -IN -CHIEF
ET H IC AL LUX URY BRAND S . . . . . . . . . . 24
M a r t i n Garvey
EDITOR
H E A D OF AD VE R T I S I NG
Ni gella W ing ate Gray
Co u rt e n a y H a re w o o d
C O P YW R IT ER
P U BL IS H E R
Da ni el Sp ence Ag new
MGDS Media Ltd. w w w . mg d s g ro u p. co m
ART COR R ESPON D E N T
Tel: +44 208 432 2819
Alexandra W il k G AVR OCH E M A G A ZI NE
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GRAPHIC D ESIGN
w w w . g a vro che . bi z
Alexandra W il k
Tel: +44 208 432 2819
Editor ’s Note
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a m v er y exc i ted to ann ou n ce my n ew appoin t men t as editor o f Gavr oc he M agaz in e. I woul d l i ke to take this time to w is h my predeces s or, M a r i e -A nne Ham i l ton al l t he very bes t w ith her ex citin g n ew v e n t u r e, and I th ank h er f or the s u pport an d ex pertis e s he has c o n t ri b uted as a l abour o f love t o Gavroch e. I h av e al so i nh er i te d an in credibly talen t ed an d devoted t e a m , who d on’t m er el y creat e a magaz in e, bu t en gin eer a u n i q u el y c r afted or i gi nal produ ct w it h each is s u e. Our l ong ter m ai m i s n ot on ly to have Gavroch e recogn iz ed a s b ei ng at th e ep i c entr e of lu x u ry an d w ealt h bu t als o as a b ra n d th at genui nel y tr i e s t o make a pos it ive dif f eren ce. We fi r m l y bel i ev e that people an d bu s in es s es can do good a n d do wel l at the sam e t ime. Our l aunc h ed i ti on will f eatu re a bran d w hich has made a s i gn i fi c ant soc i al i m pac t by es t ablis hin g a f as hion hou s e w ith a c h a ri tab l e ethos. D ani el S p enc e A gne w w ill be review in g the mos t ex clu s ive fi n e di ni ng Mi c hel i n star red res tau ran ts in t he Gou rmet Section . Our y ac hti ng sec ti on w ill be f eat u rin g t he mos t allu rin g m a ri nas gl obal l y and th i s t heme w ill be con t in u ed in ou r n ex t e di t i on. Our upc om i ng D av os edition w ill be packed w it h f eat u res r e la t i ng to Hi gh end l uxury, P hilan thropy an d corporat e s ocial r e s p onsi b i l i ty and wi l l be dis t ribu t ed at s trategic locat ion s d u ri ng the Wor l d Ec onomic F oru m’ s An n u al Meet in g in Davos , S w i t zer l and J anuar y 2015. I am bur sti ng at th e s eams w it h creative ideas an d t arget ed s t ra t e gi es th at wi l l guar a n tee Gavroch e Magazi ne’ s con t in u ed s u c cess as we onc e agai n move f orw ard an d pos it ion ou rs elves t o b ec om e th e num b er o n e u n iqu e lu x u ry an d philan thropic p u b li c ati on gl ob al l y . Ni gella Wi ngat e Gray, E dito r
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The most alluring marinas in the world Italy, southern France and the Caribbean are hard to beat, but the yachting community is travelling further afield these days. Seeking out old favourites and lesser known destinations, Gavroche pinpoints the places to be seen
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rom qu ain t Eu ropean ha r bo ur s t o glos s y n ew marin as pa cke d w ith des ign er bou tiqu es or gli ste ning C aribbean harbou rs , there is no s hort age of magn if icen t ya chting des t in ation s . The mos t challe ng ing qu es tion may w ell be w here to g o ne xt. “The Medit erran ean remain s t he pla ce to s ee – or perhaps more appropr ia te ly, ‘the place t o be s een ’ , s ays Lea Tinta ud, C harter F leet Man ager at Edmis to n. “I t has the in f ras t ru ct u re, t he res ta ur a nts, n ight lif e, s cen ery an d f acilitie s tha t people have come t o ex pect. “There’ s als o a con t in u ed incr e a se in t he n u mber of yachts ve ntur ing f u rther af ield, w it h man y w an ting to ex plore more ex ot ic des t in ations.” C roat ia, Greece an d Tu rkey a r e a ll popu lar t hes e days . “It s eems ex t raordin ary tha t a des tin ation s u ch as C roat ia ha s remain ed relat ively u n dis covere d, but n ow it’ s on every yacht ’ s must- se e lis t,” s ays Lea. “ The C aribbea n’s no t as popu lar as it w as , bu t that ’ s dif f icult t o s ee if you ’ re an chored of f S t B a r ts f or N ew Year! ” 1. W This ex clu s ive haven has a lwa ys at tracted a glamorou s crow d. In the 1950s , t he likes of C lark Gable , S o f ia Loren an d Jackie Ken n edy wo uld con gregate on t he is lan d, w hil e m o r e recen tly, celebrities s u ch as G e o r g e C loon ey, Ju lia R oberts an d H a r r iso n F ord have f locked there. Even s o, w ith its pas t el ho use s an d bright ly colou red f is hin g bo a ts, C apri s till ret ain s more than a da sh o f 5
ol d -w o rld ch a r m . T h e r e a r e 10 sup er y ac ht berths , al l j u s t a s h o rt str ol l fr om num erou s d es i gn e r b o u ti q ues stoc ki ng I ta lian l ab e ls such as Puc c i , Fer r a ga m o a nd V er sac e, p l us de li c a t e s sens sel l i ng Neapo li t a n d el i c ac i es. T h e mos t expensive m ar i na i n t h e w o rld, i t c osts an av era ge o f EUR2,900 to moor a s u p e ryac ht. When to go : T h e Rol ex Cap r i S a i li n g Week , M ay
At night all the lights from the bars and restaurants reflect in the sea
2. M ar in a di P o r t o f i n o On e o f the p r etti est h ar bou rs of all, i d y lli c Por tofi no was once a s mall fi s h i n g v i l l age and i s often on ly 6
acces s ible by s ea – the s in gl e r o a d leadin g t o it is clos ed f or mos t o f the year. R egu lar vis it ors in clu de S te ve n Spielberg an d C ol dpla y’s C hris Mart in , an d Russia n billion aire Andr e y Meln ichen ko – owne r o f 119 met re Philippe S ta r ckdes ign ed s u peryacht A. “ You can s it in the res t au ran ts an d wa tch t he lit tle poin t u bo a ts [tradition al s ailin g bo a ts] hu s tle f or s pace a m o ng st t he large s u peryachts,” sa ys Tin tau d. Wit h on ly 14 berths f or ya chts, in clu din g s ix f or s u peryacht s , it ca n be hard to get a s pace.
When to go : Por tofi no Rol ex T r o phy, M ay
The place is brimmin g with his tory an d vis it ors can s troll in the s treets lin ed w ith plan e t rees o r visit t he morn in g f low er market .
3. Po r to C er vo, Sa r d i n i a P o r t o Cer v o was found ed by the When to go: C an n es F ilm F es tiva l, M a y; Ag a K h a n w ho used i t as a pr ivate C an n es Yacht in g F es t ival, Septe m be r r et r e a t f o r h i s fr i end s and family. Th es e da y s , Si l vi o B ur l usc oni ow n s a 5 . P ort H ercules , M onac o v i l l a h e r e , a n d c om e h i gh The town N es tlin g in t he heart o f this s um me r, t h e m ar i na i s p ac k e d w i t h s u p er y ac hts. i s b r im m in g ex clu s ive prin cipalit y, a t the f oot of t he R ock of Mon ac o , P o r t “M o o r i n g up outsi d e w i th h is t o r y H ercu les is hard to bea t whe n Caf é d u P o r t am ongst a n d in it comes to glit z an d gl a m o ur . t h e o t h e r la r g e y ac hts i s It has the mos t millio na ir e s f ant a s t i c, ” s a ys T i ntaud . q u ie t e r per s qu are capit a in the wo r ld “Th e li t t le v i l l age on m o m e n t s an d even f eat u red in t he J a m e s t h e i s la n d i s al so v er y Bon d movie Golden Eye. Tha t sa id, b e au t i f u l w i t h quai nt h ouses an d s ome pref er Mon aco’ s s maller P o r t de l ux ury b o u t i ques. I al so l ov e t he F on t vieille. s mall w o o de n b r i d ges c onnec ti ng the “Bu t P ort H ercu le is s till a g r e a t d if f e re n t v i lla g es.” locat ion to be in an d a n eces sity f o r D u ri n g s u m m er m onths, th e place s toppin g in Mon aco! ” s ays Tin ta ud. h e av e s w i t h t he I tal i an j et-set and the l ik e s o f K a t e Moss, D enzel Washi n gton When to go: Mon t e C arlo R a lly, and G e o r ge C l ooney. Jan u ary; Mon aco Gran d P rix , M a y; Mon aco Yacht Show , September . When to go : Del uxe Fai r , J une; Max i Y ac h t R o le x C up, Sep tem b er 4. Vi e u x P o r t d e C a n n es, C ot e D 'A zur A n y o n e wanti ng to soak u p t h e g la mo u r o f Cannes Fi l m Fest ival s h ou ld b o o k a t l east a y ear i n ad van ce t o g u a ra n t e e a c oveted spot h er e on the Fr e n c h R i v i e r a . “Th e m ar i na i n i tsel f i s p retty c omm o n a lt h ough th e si gh t of the P al a i s d u Fe s t i val i s ver y i m p r essive,” s ay s Ti n t a u d. “I t’s p er fec t for thos e wh o w a n t t o g o l uxur y sh op p i ng an d c l ub b i n g!” 7
6. P o r t de l a Pl a i sa n ce d e B o n i f acio, Mon ten egro has grow n to be o ne Co rs ic a of the hot tes t des tin ation s fo r the This sp ec tac ul ar elite yachtin g cro wd – Mont enegr o ha s particu larly as it ca te r s f o r p or t w i n s h e ar ts. “To me, t h i s i s th e m ost grown t o be o ne t oday’ s larger s u perya chts. b e au t i f u l p o r t entr anc e There are plen ty of of the ho ttest of t h e w o rld, ” say s Lea.” bou tiqu es , res tau ra nts a nd desti na t i o ns Th e i mp re s s i v e r oc ks ar e s portin g f acilities , a s we ll l ay e r e d li k e cake and th e as cu lt u ral even t s a t P o r to for t he el i te ol d f o rt r e s s t o w n i s out of yac hti ng cr o wd Mon t en egro Yacht C lub. t h i s w o r ld . Y o u c an fi nd “A great n ew marina a nd al ong t h e p r o m enad e sm al l m arket s perf ect ly s itu at ed f or t hos e m a king and b o u t i q u e s for p i c ki ng up some their w ay f u rther dow n the Dalm a tio n l ov e ly s o u v e n i r s and th e r estauran t s C oas t ,” s ays Tin tau d. ar e a lw a y s b u z zi ng i n the sum m er.” When to go: September an d O cto be r When to go : A nyti m e ov er the summer. f or peacef u l lat e s u mmer days .. 7. Po r to M o n t en eg r o , C r o a t i a S i n c e o peni ng i n 2009, on the s i t e o f a f o rm al nav al base, Porto
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8 . M arina H var, Croatia Said by s ome to be t he m o st beau t if u l place in C roatia, the isla nd
at t he marin a du ring the Gran d P rix . “ Du bai, Qat a r a nd Abu Dhabi have g r o wn very popu lar,” s ay s L ibby Gordon f rom The Y a cht H arbou r As s ocia tio n. “ They’ re n ot as pr e tty as s ome of t he Eur o pe a n marin as , bu t peop le lo ve the s hoppin g an d ho te ls. ” When to go: Abu Dha bi Gran d P rix , N ovem be r of H v a r i s fam ed for i ts l aven der f ie l d s , o li v e gr ov es and v i neyards . M e an w h i le , t h e p i c tur esq ue m ai n tow n b oas t s c o b b le d str eets, p r etty sh utt ered wind o w s a n d s op h i sti c ated ni ght lif e. “Th e ma ri na offer s th e b est s cen e i n t h e e v e n i ng, but m ost pr efe r t o anc h o r o f f o n e of th e th ousand i slan ds and i n le t s , ” e xpl ai ns T i ntaud . “ H var and P o r t o M ontenegr o hav e s ome way t o go t o c atc h up wi th M on aco, b ut p e o p le cer tai nl y h av e i t i n t heir sights.” Whe n to go : J une/J ul y to see the l av e n d e r f i e ld s; A ugust for par ti es. 9. Ya s M ar in a, Abu Dha bi W h i le M i d d l e Easter n m arin as may la ck i n o ld -fash i oned c har m , t hey d o b o a s t t h e most fab ul ous fac i l ities . Hand i ly s i t u a ted b esi d e A b u D habi’ s For m u la 1 r a c e tr ac k , on th e man mad e i s la n d , Yas Mar i na has been c ompa re d t o C annes. D espi te b ein g a M usli m co u n t ry , l oc al s ar e sai d to be t ol e ra n t o f t he l av i sh p ar ti es throw n
1 0 . YCCS M arina Virgin G or d a , Britis h Virgin Is lands An ideal bas e f or cru is i ng the C aribbean , this corn er of paradise no t on ly has a s tate-of -the- art m a r ina , bu t als o ben ef its f rom bein g clo se to Bitter En d Yacht C lu b an d R el a is a nd C hateau hideaw ay Biras C reek R e so r t. As w ell as the en dles s pos s ibili tie s f o r s cu ba divin g, f is hin g an d s n ork e lling , it is als o the C aribbean bas e o f Y a cht C lu b C os ta Smeralda. The marin a, w hich ope ne d in 2012, w as developed u s in g s u s ta ina ble des ign practices an d accommod a te s 3 8 yacht s u p t o 88 met res lon g. When to go: all year rou n d, es pe cia lly March f or t he Loro P ian a C aribbe a n Su peryacht R egatta.
Others to cons ider: P ort de t he icon ic
Saint- Tropez, France: R iveria tow n hos ts the 9
I nt e rn a t i o n a l Pol o Cup i n J ul y an d G i r agli a R o le x Cup i n J une
s pot over C hris t mas an d lavis h f i r e wo r k dis play at N ew Year.
I bi z a M agn a: am ongst the m ega yacht s s e e n h e r e a re th ose owned by I n dian s t e e l b i lli o n a i r e L ak shm i Mi ttal an d Roma n Ab ra mov i c h.
E vents this m onth:
L i m as s o l , C r et e: thi s el e gan t d ev e lo p me n t h as been c om par ed to M ar i n a G r a n de i n Capr i and th e Du bai M ar i n a . Bo d r u m P al m a r i n a , Tur k ey: peerles s f ac ili t i e s a n d i ts l oc ati on on the Tur ki s h R i v i e r a h av e attr ac ted the wor l d ’ s b i gge s t m over s and shak ers t o P al ma ri n a . Po rt o f Gu s tav i a , St B a r t s: A p opu lar 10
Southam pton Boat Show: 12-21 Sept ember s ou t hampt on boats how .com Cannes Yachting Fes tival: 9-15 September can n es yachtin gf es tival.com
Selecting Our Stars A luxury guide to the world's greatest Michelin restaurants
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i ch e li n Star s ar e awar d ed to an e li t e n u m ber of r estaur ants an d ar e h i gh ly coveted b y i nter nation al c h e f s . A t ru ly l uxur i ous awar d an d sy no n y mo u s wi th exc el l enc e, a Mic h e li n re s taur ant wi l l c om man d l oy alt y a n d c u stom th r ough i ts s t ars al one . A s t h e water m ar k of l ux u ry c uis i n e , M i c h el i n awar d s 0 to 3 s tars t o r e s t a u r a n t s on th e b asi s of the anon y m o u s r evi ews. Conc entr a t in g on t h e q u a li t y , tec h ni que, per sonality and co n s i s t e n c y of th e c ui si ne, they do not l o o k a t i n ter i or s or ser v i c e w hen awar di n g s t a r s . H o w e v e r , th e gui d e d oes s how f or k s a n d spoons, whi c h si mply c onv e y s j u s t how el egant or i nfo rmal a r e s t a u ra n t m ay b e. A th r ee-s tar M i c h e li n re s t aur ant i s one “ wor thy of a s p e ci a l j o u r n e y, i nd i c ati ng exc eption al c ui s i n e w h e re d i ner s eat extr e mely wel l , often sup er b l y . D i sti nct ive d is h e s a re p rec i sel y exec uted , u s in g s up e rla t i v e i n gr ed i ents” . L o ndo n ’ s D o r chest er Ho t el W i t h regul ar app ear anc es in c oun t le s s b e s t -r estaur ant l i sts acros s t h e w o r ld , A l ai n D euc asse’s threes t ar M i c h e li n r estaur ant at L ondon ’ s Dor c h e s t e r H otel i s one of th e fin es t i n E u r o p e . Th er e ar e onl y four U K r es t a u ra n t s w i th th r ee Mi c hel i n s tars and Lo n d o n ’ s cr èm e d e l a c r èm e r esides in f a s h i o n a b le M ay fai r . S ur r ound e d by 4, 5 0 0 s h i m m e ri ng fi br e op ti c s, which d r op d r a m a t i cal l y fr om the c ei l i ng, t he ‘ T ab le L u mi ère’ i s th e c entr epi ece of t h e r e s t a u r a n t , ad or ned wi th sp ecially se l ect e d H e rm è s c h i na, Pui forcat
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s ilverw are an d ex qu is it e Saint-L o uis crys t al. F ren ch chef Alain De uca sse t akes gu es t s on an immers ive culina r y jou rn ey, s tartin g w it h lu x u r io usly pres en ted amu s e- bou che s erve d in a porcelain egg an d f in is hin g w it h divine ‘C hamon ix ’ cakes . Seas on al p r o duce f rom Brit ain an d F ran ce are eloque ntly s erved on The Dorches t er m e nu. H is s ign atu re dis hes in clu de ‘ S a uté
g our ma n d ’ o f lob ster , tr uffl ed c hicken q uen e lle s a n d hom em ad e p asta; F illet of b e e f R o s s i n i , c r unc hy c os l ettu ce, ‘ s ac r i s t a i n ’ p otatoes and the d ec aden t B ab a li k e i n ‘Monte- Car l o’. L e M e u r ie, P a r i s Li ke wi se his equal ly soph isti cated L e M e u r i e re s taur ant i n Par i s has three M i c h e li n s t a rs too. Fr anc e i s h ome to 2 7 t h r e e -s t a r M i c hel i n r estaur ants an d
n in e are locat ed in P aris . C apt u ring the es s en ce of a lu x u ry F ren ch res ta ur a nt, the rococo ceilin g dé cor of Le M e ur ie takes in s piration f rom t he r o ya l apart men t s of Vers ailles . F ren ch des ign er Philippe Sta r ck’s din in g rooms have a gilded N apo le o nic Empire s tyle, w it h an t iqu e f u rnishing s covered in F ren ch an d It alian bro ca de s. The en ormou s Belle Et oile Su ite ha s an ex t raordin ary 360-degree pa no r a m a 13
and o u t d o o r t er r ac e m easur i ng ne arly 3 , 0 0 0 s q u a re feet - the onl y one o f its k i nd i n P a r i s . B athr oom s ar e eq u ally l ux uri o u s w ith m ar bl e d etailin g, d es i gn e r t o i le tr i es, and d eep tub s. Op e r a t i ng und er th e gui dan ce of s u p e r s t a r c hef A l ai n D ucas s e s i nc e a u t u mn 2013, L e M eur i c e of f ers s up e rb di n i n g wi th hi s y oung pr ot é gé Ch r i s t o p h e S ai ntagne ser vi ng r efin ed Fr e n c h c u i s i n e that exem p l i fi es t he s e aso n a l i n gred i ents. L a Per go l a, Ro me Ri v a lli n g the qual i ty of D uc a s s e’ s Fr e n c h cu i s i n e i s Rom e’s onl y threes t ar M i c h e li n r estaur ant, La Per gola, wh ich o v e rlo oks St Peter 's B as ilica f r om t h e s t a r r y h ei gh ts of Mon te 14
Mario. Su rrou n ded by rare Aubusso n tapes t ry, Sèvres porcelain , impe r ia l f u rn it u re an d a w on derf u l collec tio n o f han d-blow n glas s by Emile Ga llé , the It alian res t au ran t als o has an ex clusive C igar Lou n ge, w here you can sa vo ur a great cigar w it h a vin tage liquo ur w hile s avou rin g the beau tif u l déco r . Widely con s idered to be t he ‘ be st res tau ran t in R ome’, the Miche lin Gu ide has hon ou red La P ergola with three s t ars an d f ive f orks , which is a u n ivers al s ymbol of ex ce ptio na l cu is in e. In deed an y res tau ran t tha t ha s a w in e cellar w it h over 60,000 bo ttle s, a w at er men u w it h 29 choices , ca n m a ke a f in e claim of cu lin ary ex celle nce . Running under the aegis of German chef H ein z Beck, La P ergola’ s, ha ute
c ui s i n e , i s s e r ved on ver m ei l p lates and cu t le ry . Captur i ng th e season al q ual i t i e s o f t h e M ed i ter r anean, Rome’ s onl y t h re e - s t a r Mi c hel i n r estau ran t i s a m a s t e r cl ass i n I tal i an c uis in e. I nd iv i d u a l h i ghl i ghts i nc l ud e th e black c od i n a fi e ry , pep p er y m i nestr one sou p, v e nis o n i n a p i stac hi o c r ust and B e ck’ s s i g na t u r e di s h , ‘ Fagotel l i L a Per gola’ . B ec k i s a c h e f who not onl y posses s es a r ema rk a b le c ul i nar y abi l i ty but als o a p al a t e o f t h e utm ost r efi nem ent. H is r ema rk a b le t aster d i sh es ar e object l es s o n s i n t h e a r t of b al anc e of fl av ou rs , t e x t u re s a n d col our . Ele ven M adis o n Pa r k , N ew Yo r k L i k e w i s e ac r oss th e A tl an t ic, S wis s ch e f D a n i el Hum m ’s m asterf u lly
prepared cu is in e at Eleven Ma diso n P ark in N ew York rivals an ything yo u may ex perien ce in Eu rope. Ar g ua bly the f in es t din in g ex perien ce in the Big Apple, t he three- s t ar M iche lin res tau ran t is co-ow n ed by Will G uida r a . The magn if icen t Art Deco resta ur a nt has s oarin g 35-f oot ceilin g s a nd s pect acu lar view s of Madis on S qua r e P ark. Of f erin g beau t if u l view s o f Ne w York, the res tau ran t is the pe r f e ct s ettin g f or H u mm’ s s t ylis h cuisine , w hich in n ovat ively pays homage to the cit y’ s cu lin ary tradition s . While t he epic N ew York b uilding con t ras t s heavily w it h the m o de st port ion s , gu es t s s hou ld ex pect t o de vo te t hree or f ou r hou rs here as this thr e e s tar Michelin res tau ran t is mad e up o f 15
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man y act s . The mu lti-cou rs e ta sting men u is arou n d $ 225 an d pays ho m a g e t o N ew York lon gs t an din g f ood c ultur e . The F ran co- in f lu en ced greenm a r ke t cu is in e in clu des dis hes s u ch as M usco vy du ck glaz ed w ith laven der hon e y, a nd f oie gras t errin e w ith plu ms , u m e bo shi an d bitter almon ds . R en ow n ed f or it s f ou r - cour se a nd f ive-cou rs e tas t in g men u s , the s e a so na l cu is in e celebrat es local N ew Yor k f a r m an d s ea in gredien ts : oys t ers , s ca llo ps, lobs t er, du ck, an d aged bee f . The f oie gras t errin e w it h plu m an d bitte r almon d is a s pecial f avou rit e, a nd the s tu rgeon pres en t ed as t ake on a Ne w York C it y bagel is a tru ly mes me r ising ex perien ce. There are als o hom e m a de ales an d s pirits s erved ex clu s ive ly f o r Eleven Madis on P ark by It hac a B e e r C o. an d St . George Spirit s . Like her cou n terparts in E ur o pe , t he t hree-s tar Michelin res ta ur a nt f ocu s es on the ex t rao r dina r y agricu ltu ral bou n t y of the lo ca l en viron men t. C aptu rin g a u nive r sa l t heme of cu lin ary ex cellen ce , the Michelin -s t ar chef s of Alain De uca sse , H ein z Beck an d Dan iel H u mm repr e se nt t he joie de vivre of in t ern a tio na l cu is in e. Servin g f res h, s eas on al dishe s in his t oric s et tin gs , t he Miche lin s tar chef ’ s have f ood con n o isse ur s marvellin g over t heir t as t er c o ur se s an d in n ovat e cu is in e. F or ex ce lle nce repres en t s the w is e choice of m a ny altern atives - choice, n ot chance , will det ermin e you r cu lin ary des t in y.
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A vintage investment with thrills As prices continue to rise, classic motors could be the ultimate investment vehicle, but have the enthusiasts simply got carried away?
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A
t t he giddy top en d of t he ma r ke t, there s eems n o limit to wha t collectors w ill pay f or t heir u ltim a te clas s ic car. Wit h prices climbing a n as t on is hin g 47 per cen t las t yea r , wha t w as on ce a hobby s u dden ly s ta r te d to s eem like a dream in ves tmen t . “The ret u rn can be as t ron o m ica l. C las s ic cars have ou tperf orme d the F TSE by a con s iderable perc e nta g e in t he las t f ive years ,” s ays M a r cus At kin s on of clas s ic car in s u rers H a g e r ty In tern ation al. “People are choo sing to in ves t dis pos able mon ey in car s, f ine art an d w in e. You can ’ t s how o f f a certif icate of s t ock market res ults, but you can s how of f an As t on Mart in DB 5 . Wit h cars , t here’ s a certain eleme nt o f n os talgia bu t you can als o drive the m , t ou ch them, s mell t hem, f eel t he m . ” Ex emption f rom capit al ga ins ta x an d con t in u ed low in teres t rate s m a ke clas s ic cars even more attr a ctive . “U ltimately an y market is abou t supply an d deman d. There’ s a f in ite s upply o f collect ors ’ motor cars an d pres e ntly a healthy appet it e f or them,” points o ut James Kn ight , Bon hams Globa l He a d of Motorin g. R ecen t high prof ile s ales include a 1954 Mercedes W196 that f e tche d almos t $ 30 million (£19 millio n) la st year, an d a 1997 McLaren F 1 G TR Lon gt ail w hich w en t f or $ 5.28 m illio n (£32 million ) in Jan u ary. Ex pec ta tio ns w ere of f t he s cale w hen a certa in 1 9 6 2 F errari 250 GTO w as au ctione d by Bon hams in Au gu s t, an d t he h a m m e r came dow n at $ 38 million (£23 millio n) t hat day in C alif orn ia - les s t ha n m a ny ex pect ed. 19
A c co rd i ng to an i nd ex of c l a s s ic c ar s c o m p i le d b y Hi stor i c A utom obile G r ou p In t e rnati onal (HA GI ), t he mar ke t h a s i nd eed sl owed - gr ow in g b y a mo de s t 8 .42 p er c ent for the year t o Ju ly . Bu t wh i l e r ec ent year s have b e e n r e m i n i s c ent of th e c l assi c car b oom o f t h e l ate 1980s (p r i c es f ell s t e e p ly i n t h e ear l y 1990s), expert s r ema i n u n d a u nted . “I d o n ’ t th i nk i t’s goi ng to cras h as b e fo re , b e c ause thi s ti m e people ar e b u y i n g wi th c ash i nstead of 20
borrow in g,” ex plain s At kin s on . “ The y s ay ‘I’ ve alw ays loved that car. If I g e t a good ret u rn , that ’ s ju s t t he icing o n t he cake’. Dif f eren t areas of t he m a r ke t are comin g in to play - Sou th Am e r ica , t he F ar Eas t an d C hin a.” While t he old clas s ics - the F erraris , As t on Mart in s an d E - Type Jags - con tin u e t o appreci a te in valu e, t he rally cars of t he 19 8 0 s a r e at tractin g more at ten tion . It’s the modern collect or cars w hich are be ing cou rt ed by t he n ex t gen eration - the
l ik e s o f t h e For d S i er r a Coswor th an d t h e BM W M 3 E vo,” say s A tki nson . “A 1 9 8 5 A u di Q uattr o S p or t SW B Cou pé s ol d f o r £ 1 1 5 , 7 40 at G ood wood Revival l as t y e a r. ” S p o rt s r a c i ng c ar s of th e 1950s t h at a r e e q u a lly at hom e on r oad or track ar e a ls o p e r f o rm i ng wel l , ac c or d i n g to K nigh t o f B o nham s: “ T h ey ’r e a ticket t o so m e o f t h e wor l d 's gr eatest even ts s uc h a s t h e M i l l e M i gl i a Retr osp ective, L e M a n s Cl assi c and G ood wood Rev i v a l. ”
Of cou rs e, a s ix f igu re s u m is f a r f rom es s en tial to lan d a vin t age m o to r . An MG Midget can be bou ght f or £ 3 ,0 0 0 to £4,000 an d a Triu mph TR 4 fo r le ss than £20,000. The dream f or ma ny is a ‘barn f in d’, in n eed of care a f te r decades lan gu is hin g in a garage . At C las s ic Motor Cars in Bridgn orth, Shrops hire, Peter Ne um a r k overs ees the res torat ion of J a g ua r s an d ot her vin tage motors . It t ypica lly cos t s arou n d £150,000 to res to r e a n E- Type, an d 60 per cen t of h is ca r s are ex port ed - t o Eu rope, t he M iddle Eas t , Au s tralia an d N orth Ame r ica . “It w as n ot alw ays the ca se tha t you cou ld pu t mon ey in t o a res to r a tio n an d get a ret u rn on you r in ves tme nt, but t hes e days you do,” he s ays . “We tr y to make t he res torat ion proces s en jo ya ble f or ou r clien t s . They’ re in volved in the s pecif icat ion s , the colou r, t he t r im , a nd if they w an t w e’ ll give t hem tas k s to do in the w orks hop. An ythin g is po ssible . A Tex an clien t as ked u s t o s t re tch his E -t ype by 4.5 in ches .” Sadly, car in ves tmen t f unds have yet t o take of f . On e of the la te st project s is t he P H D C las s ic C ar F und. Lau n ched earlier this year by P HD Equ it y P artn ers , they req uir e a min imu m in ves tmen t of £50,000 . “It’ s been a very bu oyan t ma r ke t, an d w e’ re t ryin g to give pe o ple ex pos u re to that , bu t w ith t he a dde d ben ef it that they can u s e t he ca r s - rat her like a pres t ige car club, ” ex plain s in ves tmen t as s ociat e Ke ith Ben s on . “We w an t t o in ves t in ca r s w ort h £250,000 to £400,000 - the on es that qu alif y f or high en d e ve nts 21
l ik e G o o d w o o d Rev i v al . T hese ar e the mod e ls t h a t a ttr ac t val ue.” Th ey a re y e t to r ai se th e £2 to £2.5 mil l i o n need to star t i nv es t in g - p o s s i b ly b e c a use weal th y enth usias t s t e nd t o o w n t hei r own v i ntage c ars . D i e t ri c h Hatl ap a, a fo rmer b ank e r a n d found er of the Hi s t oric Aut o mo b i le Gr oup, sound s a not e of c aut i o n , p o i n ti ng out th at c ar s that d o w e ll i n a r i si ng m ar k et ar e more v ul n e ra b le i n per i od s of d eclin e. “Th e y do n o t c om p ar e to m ai nstream i nv es t me n t s , a nd ar e hi gh l y i l l i q u id,” h e w a r n s . “ Y o u shoul d buy wi th you r h e ar t , n o t t o boost your wal l et.” T h a t s a i d , h e bel i ev es it is p oss i b le t o u se c l assi c i nv estmen t s t r at e gi e s . “ Look for c ar s i n sectors t h at h a v e u n d er per for m ed , suc h as M e r c e d e s B e nz and Por sc he. I t’s als o wor th lo o k i n g at th e p er for m ance of i nd i v i du a l c a r s , l i ke th e A ston M artin V8.” Fe rr a r i s h av e r i sen m ost steeply, wit h p ri c e s goi ng up b y 62 p er cen t
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las t year alon e. “ P rices are ver y m uch determin ed by rarit y. F errari s we r e bu ilt in mu ch s maller n u mbers tha n Jagu ar, bu t If you w an t to en joy dr iving a car, w hy n ot bu y a car t hat ’s be e n bu ilt in larger n u mbers ?“ s ug g e sts H atlapa. “We recommen d y o u g e t in volved in t he s ect or bef ore buying a car, maybe join a clas s ic car club a nd go t o even ts . If you ’ re an en thu sia st, by all mean s in ves t in cars , bu t if yo u’r e n ot , f in d s omethin g you ’ re pas sio na te abou t.” E vents this m onth: International Autojum b le at Beaulieu M otor M us eum 6-7 September beau lieu .co.u k Goodwood Rivival 12-14 September grrc.goodw ood.com
Classic Car Car Market Relative Performance Classic Market Relative Performance 300.00%
250.00%
200.00%
150.00%
100.00%
50.00%
0.00%
-50.00%
10/1/2006 12/1/2006 2/1/2007 4/1/2007 6/1/2007 8/1/2007 10/1/2007 12/1/2007 2/1/2008 4/1/2008 6/1/2008 8/1/2008 10/1/2008 12/1/2008 2/1/2009 4/1/2009 6/1/2009 8/1/2009 10/1/2009 12/1/2009 2/1/2010 4/1/2010 6/1/2010 8/1/2010 10/1/2010 12/1/2010 2/1/2011 4/1/2011 6/1/2011 8/1/2011 10/1/2011 12/1/2011 2/1/2012 4/1/2012 6/1/2012 8/1/2012 10/1/2012 12/1/2012 2/1/2013 4/1/2013 6/1/2013 8/1/2013 10/1/2013 12/1/2013 2/1/2014 4/1/2014
-100.00%
Hagerty Price Guide Blue Chip Index
The secret of succes s I t p a y s t o d o y ou r r e s e ar c h whe n buyi ng a c l a s s ic c a r , s ay s M ar c u s A tkin s on of H a ge r ty I n te r n ation al - Ge t a d v i ce fr om som eone neutral c l ass i c c a r clu b s c an often h el p . There ar e p le n t y o f c onsul tants who w ill ac c om p a n y y o u to c hec k out a c ar. - L o o k f o r a go od b ad ge suc h as J agu ar, M e r c e d e s , M a ser ati , A ston M art in . S e e k o u t s o m eth i ng a l i ttl e qui r ky p r ic e s f o r t h e A ston M ar ti n D B 40 , the DB 5 a n d D B 6 h av e r i sen steep l y, s o t r y a n e a rly DB 7. - Fi n d a ca r that h as b een c her i s hed, wit h o n e o w n e r sh i p and l ow m i l ea ge.
FTSE 100
Price of Gold Per Ounce
- Es t ablis h the proven an ce of t he ca r . An illu s t riou s pas t w ill add s ignif ica nt valu e. In Ju ly, a 1987 Mercede s g ive n t o Madon n a by Sean P en n so ld f o r 69,575 Eu ros (£ 55,700 ) w ell abo ve the ex pect ed price. - Stick t o you r bu dget. C on s ide r the cos t s of res torat ion , main t en ance a nd s torage. -Au ct ion s are w here the pro m ine nt cars ten d t o go. Bu t w ebs it es will a lso of f er a w ealth of cars . - Drive as man y as pos s ible. Ca ll up an d as k how lon g t he car’ s been o n the market? H as an yon e tes t-drive n it? What did t hey like an d dis like abo ut it? 23
The heart of luxury fashion
The founders of a London fashion label have proved that ethical clothing can be chic and the idea is taking root across the globe 24
T
w o y o u n g wom en fr om L on don w e re s i p p i ng tea at the I m perial H ot e l i n D e lh i enj oy i ng a S und ay t reat away f r o m t h e sl um s wher e they w ere w or k i n g a s v ol unteer s when they hit up on t h e i de a of star ti ng a fashi on label w i t h a ch a r i t a b l e ethos. T h e i d e a m i ght easi l y hav e been f or g o t t e n o n ce th ey r etur ned to t he c om fo rt s o f hom e bac k i n 2010, bu t N at a s h a Ru f us I saac s and L avin ia B r en n a n fe lt c om pel l ed to hel p t he v ic t i m s o f t raffi c ki ng wh o they had m e t i n In d i a . s teep learn in g cu rve f or R u f u s Isa a cs “W e h a d no exp er i enc e i n fashion , an d Bren n an s t artin g w ith t he ir two and e v e r y o n e p r ob ab l y th ought w e mon ths in a Delhi s lu m, w her e the ir wer e s li gh t ly b onker s, ad m i ts R u f u s af t ern oon s w ere s pen t t eachin g se wing I saacs , 3 1 , w ho had r ec entl y l eft her t o girls w ho had been traf f icked f o r the j ob a t S o t h e b y ’ s. B ut the i d ea came s ex t rade. f r om w a n t i n g to d o som eth i ng goo d.” “It w as a cu ltu re s hock, b ut o ur A r me d wi th d r ess sam p l es made ex perien ce there had a hu ge impa ct,” up i n In di a , they thr ew th em selves admits Bren n an , 27, w ho lodged with a i nt o s e t t i n g u p th ei r c om pany, B eu lah cou ple w ho had adopt ed s ix boy s with L ond o n . W i t h i n m onths, they were H IV, an d w as overw helmed to se e the s e l l i n g t h e i r fi r st d esi gns, soon to love they lavis hed on t he you n g ste r s. b e w o r n b y c l i ents i nc l ud i ng Pippa “They had given u p s o m uch M i d d le t o n , Th e D uc hess of Cam br idge, of their lives to help others . ..” she S i e n n a M i lle r, Sar ah J essi c a Pa rker remembers . and K a t h e r i n e J enki ns. I t wa s a cul tur e F or Rufus Isa a cs J u s t a fe w y ear s ago, s h o ck, but o ur dau ght er of the 4 th t h e c o n ce p t of “eth i c al Marqu es s of R eading , a nd l ux ury ” was v i r tual l y exper i ence a pal of P rin ce W illia m unh e a r d o f , b ut B eul ah ther e ha d a an d P rin ce H arry t he tr ip L ond o n i s o ne of m any h uge i m pa ct had s pecial mean in g . He r s mall co mp a n ies to p r ov e great- great - gran df ather w as o nce a t h at e t h i ca l can b e c hi c , i t’ s not all Viceroy of In dia. “ It w as very po ig na nt ab ou t h e mp T-sh i r ts and hi p p y p an ts . bein g there”, s he s ays . Fas h i o n i s t a s have tak en the c ause to Bot h art his tory gradu ate s, who t h e i r h e a r t s , a n d the bi g l uxur y bran ds met at chu rch, the f rien ds w ere s pur r e d ar e ge t t i n g i n c r easi ngl y i nvol v ed t oo. in t o action by t he hopeles s s i tua tio n T h e w h o l e busi ness has been a 25
of t h e w o me n they wor k ed wi th i n the s l um. In i t i a lly, th ey fund ed B eu lah L ond o n w i t h fam i l y l oans, setti ng u p c amp i n Br e n n an’s m oth er ’s basemen t in P a r s o n s G r e en, Lond on. T hey were se l l i n g t h e i r desi gns wi th i n m onths an d w or d s p re a d f ast, hel p ed by th e high p r of i le w o m e n sp otted wear i ng their d e s i gn s . “O n e o f the fi r st was [U S ac t r e s s ] J e s s i c a A l b a wh o wor e on e of ou r s c a r v e s i n L A . T h at was r e ally e x c i t i n g!” a dm i ts Rufus I saac s. “An d a c om p le t e ly n e w d em ogr ap h i c for u s ! ” L a s t y e ar the p ai r op ene d a p op -u p s h o p i n Lond on’ s B el gr a via, and s t a y e d t her e. T h ough the main c ol l e ct i o n i s mad e i n the UK . I t’ s mu ch e asi e r t o c o n t r ol th e qual i ty c an vas b ag s , gi v e n a way wi th ever y pr odu ct
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s old, are made in Delhi. Mea nwhile , t he Beu lah Tru s t f u n ds s kills c o ur se s f or t he vict ims of traf f ickin g. Su bt le t ou ches hin t a t the charitable ethos w it hou t labou r ing the poin t. Beu lah is a biblical term m e a ning to come f rom a place of darkn e ss into on e of light , an d dove prin t f a br ic allu des t o love an d peace in t he cur r e nt collection . “P eople as s ociat e charit y with poor qu ality, I thin k,” s ays R uf us Is aacs . “F irs t an d f oremos t , we ’r e a lu x u ry f as hion label. If a wo m a n s pen ds £400 or £500 on a dres s , it ha s to be beau tif u l. P eople dis cove r a bo ut the charit able et hos af terw ards .” “We have very loyal cu s to m e r s w ho come back t o u s , an d who a r e ambas s adors f or t he bran d, be ca use
n ot kn ow abou t s w eat s hops , child t h e y lo v e t h e stor y . T hey ’l l talk to labou r an d other du biou s pra ctice s. t h e i r f r i e n ds about i t. I thi nk t hey Even s o, he s ays large lu x u ry br a nds und e rs t a n d t h a t thr ough th ei r pur chas e have ben ef it ed f rom pu blicity a f te r t h e y a re m a k i ng a d i ffer enc e, b ut the in trodu cin g e thica l mai n t h i n g i s th ey l i k e the People are starting collection s , a nd the p r odu ct . ” to understand that ef f ect has be e n to H e r v i e w i s ec h oed sustainable fashion en cou rage othe r s to b y D r Ia i n D av i es fr om does not lack in f ollow s u it . Uni v e rs i t y of B ath, a “Overall I think l ec t u r e r i n m ar k eti ng and design and can be the f as hion industr y e x p e rt o n e t h i c al l uxur y upmarket is better t han it wa s mar ke t s . f ive years ago,” he s ays . “As m o r e “ If y o u ’ r e l ook i ng at l u x u ry compan ies get in volved, there’s m o r e f as h i o n , t h e f i r st th i ng y ou’ r e g oin g pres s u re on compan ies w ho do n’ t do t o co n s i de r i s th e c ut, th e d e s ign , thes e t hin gs . It can create chan g e .” t h e f a b r i c. The v al ues b eh i nd i t are H igh prof ile des ign er s are s e c on da ry , a n d tal k i ng about them can in f lu en t ial. Zan dra R hodes , S te lla e v e n da ma ge a br and ”, he says. McC artn ey an d Don n a Karan a r e a ll H e b e li e v es p eop l e woul d r at her 27
k now n fo r t h e i r sustai nabl e c ol l ec t ion s . Am a z i n gly , Mc Car tney’ s stud i os an d of f ice s a re e v en p ower ed b y w in d e nergy . Or s o la d e Castr o i s th e d r ivin g f or c e b e h i n d Lond on Fash i on Week’ s Est e t h i ca - a showc ase for sustai n able e c o-f a s h i o n and i s seei ng atti tu des e v ol v e a c ro s s th e wor l d . “ M a n y b r and s ar e r eal l y l oo kin g at h o w t h e y ’ re p r od uc i ng thei r c l othes ”, says the Italian designer. “It’s something e v e ry o n e i s tak i ng ser i ousl y.” The K e r in g G r o u p [owner s of G uc c i , Sain t L aure n t P a ri s and B al enc i aga] ar e on e c omp a n y e n co u r agi ng p osi ti v e c h an ge. I nd it e x , o w n e r of h i gh str eet chain Zar a , i s o n e of the m ost ad vanc ed in t e r m s o f t h e li vi ng wage, and Val en tin o 28
in t erms of the dyes they u s e. H igh- en d des ign er Stamo f o unde d Ecolu x e Lon don in 2010, an d the no nprof it organ is at ion recen t ly ope ne d a bou t iqu e s ellin g clothes an d jew e lle r y. “Ou r cu s t omers have access to the bes t thin gs , s o it has to be s ome thing t hat cat ches their eye, s he s ays .” “P eople are s t artin g t o u n de r sta nd t hat s u s t ain able f as hion does no t la ck in des ign , an d can be u pmark e t. It’ s act u ally more ex pen s ive t o produce !” “It’ s alw ays goin g to be a bo ut t he beau tif u l dres s ” , adds de Ca str o . “Bu t w hat I’ m s t artin g to s ee is pe o ple s ayin g I don ’ t thin k I w an t to b uy this dres s u n les s I kn ow how it ’ s be e n made.”