FASHION FORWARD moving the needle on menswear

Since I was nine years old, I’ve been afraid to wear dresses. Conservative Vietnamese families will do that to you: instill insecurity toward an idea or object. I remember my Seattlite Aunt telling me that wearing long socks was for girls and forcing me to drink three glasses of milk each morning. She wanted me to grow strong and successful like the men on American TV: the Schwarzneggers, the Bushes, and the Jobs.

Since then, my style has completely changed. Transitions in trends and unapologetic expression have influenced the speed and comfort at which I express myself stylistically. The image of the Abercrombie model is no longer ideal, and the men on TV are confident enough to wear dresses. I wish that nine-year-old me knew what menswear looked like today, because maybe he’d be wearing Rick Owen’s KISS Heels right now.

Google’s definition of menswear is clothing for men. Quite a robust definition. When thinking of menswear, various examples of timeless styles come to mind. Rugged Levi’s Painters, an Americana classic. In Japan, the Ametora ShibuKaji movement, where warrior-style gangs adorned with Air Max 95s and Avirex Leathers, ran rampant through the streets of Harajuku.

Omar Vega, the operations manager of Porterhouse Clothing and Supply in Eugene, OR, weighs in on timeless menswear rooted in Americana. Porterhouse’s storefront has a curated aesthetic: earth tones broken up by navy selvedges and jet-black leathers. “Menswear is practical clothing that transcends the trend cycles,” says Vega, a Eugene native and UO graduate with a Bachelor’s in Advertising. His time with Porterhouse has accredited him with a deep understanding of the roots of Americana. “History tends to repeat itself. I think the future of menswear will be rooted in the past of menswear.”

BY ELIJAH RUSSELL ART DIRECTOR FIONA GIBBENS MODEL & WRITER JOSH DUONG-TRAN PLAYLIST CONNOISSEUR DEAN GRIFFIN DESIGNER PEYTON MCQUIAN

Old Americana fashion has numerous influences, but Europe is the most notable. After the Spanish-American War, American elites traveled the globe, taking inspiration from fashion in Germany and Great Britain. American students abroad expanded upon the wardrobe of Oxford elites. The Prince of Wales was also a style influence at the time; magazines cataloged his every style. Vega reflects on the interpretations of old Americana in current trend cycles. “Timeless pieces, like raw denim, they’ve been in use since the 1920s and have yet o go out of style.” Washed Levis 515s are a canvas for GAP-wearing, tote-bag-toting minimalists. Avant-garde incorporates essentials, both cropped and reworked, such as white tees and flannels.

So, the roots of menswear appear in present trends, but modernity rears its head in ways unfathomable in the 1900s. Are we truly moving forward in style if that movement can’t be tracked? Yes! Open a GQ article about menswear to find “Dries Silk Scarf! Tucked-In Everything! Freaky Footwear?”

Jillian Peffer, co-owner of a denim-resale shop in Eugene, weighs in on her stylistic interpretations of present menswear. “I feel like a lot of people wear oversized and baggy - both men and women,” says Peffer. In the cut-and-sew fashion industry, progressive piece selection causes menswear to align closer with androgyny, or both masculine and effeminate.

Androgyny in menswear is not a foreign concept. We’ve seen it with Young Thug donning Alessandro Trincone for the JEFFERY album cover, and MAMAMOO’s Moonbyul, arriving at MAMA 2020 in a tactical vest. And yet, the average style is still exceedingly normative: a white t-shirt, blue skinny jeans and white shoes. The bareness behind the evolution of this style ties back to machismo and toxic masculinity. Marc Green, a sociology professor at the University of Richmond, describes the phenomenon, which he has termed: The Man Box. “The frame of the Man Box is made up of comparison, competition, and hierarchical performance among men, by men, and for men” (Green, Marc, 2013).

Hegemonic masculinity is a style influence in itself, limiting the evolutionary course of menswear. “I think in Eugene and Portland, there’s a lot of people trying to do too much with their fashion,” Reese Taylor, an East Coast culture enthusiast, said. “I think simple is better because you don’t have to worry about what you wear.”

In the context of the Man Box, fashion is impractical. It’s nerve-racking to break out and express yourself. Especially in smaller cities like Eugene, turning heads can feel uncomfortable. However, the selflove we receive for it is evident, noticeable, and valuable. “It’s refreshing if you wear something more avant-garde. Smaller communities need more diversity in how people express themselves,” said Omar.

I’m not sure if I’m comfortable enough to wear dresses. Maybe it’s my insecurities. Maybe I still haven’t left the box. But I doubt the world’s opinion will matter when I slip on that wild outfit: the Yohji long skirt and CDG buttonup. The needle has moved. The fashionable man defies stereotypes ingrained in hegemonic masculinity. I’m free to try whatever style suits my fancy. My outfits aren’t authentic until I take them outside, so what am I waiting for? Now is the time to experiment - be it in a suit, a skirt, or something fancier - and crush it.

WRITTEN BY AARON GEORIS ILLUSTRATED BY MICA DELGADO DESIGNER ADIA BAINES PLAYLIST CONNOISSEURS BELLA THOMAS & LUCY MENENDEZ

Step 1: Why climb big walls?

So there’s a big wall before you. Why don’t you just turn around and go home? It would be easier than figuring out a way up, that’s for sure. Or, you could stay, take a deep breath, and suit up in your climbing gear–get your harness on, lace up your shoes, and flake your rope. After all, you’ll be able to see so much from way up there.

Step 2: Make sure you’re ready.

Are you sure you’ve thought this through? You’re about to embark on a journey that might take hours, days, or even weeks! Do you have the proper experience and training? Do you have all the gear you need? Doublecheck that you have a good rope, harness, belay device, enough and adequate protection, slings, extra carabiners, a Personal Anchor System, a helmet, shoes, chalk, and some snacks and water. While climbing big walls can be incredibly enjoyable, it can also be risky. Make sure you know what you’re getting into. And once you’re confident and prepared, then get excited. You’re about to have a blast.

Step 3: Find a partner you can trust.

Nobody climbs big walls alone. Before you or your partner(s) begin climbing, each person is going to tie into the climbing rope, and you won’t untie until you’re safe at the top of the wall. Climbing as a team means having confidence that you and your partner(s) can provide each other with mutual support, protection, advice, and care. At every moment, you’re trusting your life to your climbing partner(s). It’s crucial to have good communication, similar values and goals, and a system of support that can motivate you, especially in those moments when you can’t motivate yourself. While climbing, you’re going to find yourself well above the comfort of the ground. It can take a while to become okay with this feeling. Luckily, you aren’t alone up there. When you’re feeling that fear, check in with your climbing partner(s). They’ll remind you that you’re tied into them, and they aren’t going to let you fall to the ground. Sure, youmight slip and fall to your last piece of protection. But if you trust your partner, they will always catch you. One of the best parts of climbing big walls is that you’re never alone up there.

Step 4: Pick a big wall to climb.

Sometimes this step occurs before steps one through three. Sometimes there’s a big wall you feel you must climb, and only then do you begin preparing and finding a climbing partner. You can climb walls that are too easy, walls that are right around your level of preparedness, or even walls that push you significantly out of your comfort zone. Sometimes a friend might suggest a wall for you to climb. There’s no single right big wall to pick, but keep in mind that it’s often on the biggest and scariest walls that we learn the most about ourselves—it’s here that the real growth happens.

Step 5: Gear up and start climbing.

So you’ve decided to climb a big wall, you’re prepared for the journey, found your partner(s), and decided upon an appropriate big wall to climb. Now, you have to climb it. Once you arrive at the wall, look up. Wow, that’s a long way to the top. Keep in mind, with every pitch of the climb you’re gonna inch towards the top, and all the way up there you’ll be able to see much more thanfrom where you started. So get your gear on. Tie into your end of the rope, ensure you have all the appropriate equipment, and then doublecheck everything with your partner(s). Let themknow you’re going to climb, and wait for them to confirm that they’ll catch you if you happen to fall. Once you’ve doublechecked everything, take a big breath, and start climbing. The next time you stand on solid ground, you’ll be a stronger version of yourself.

Step 6: Climb. Pitch by pitch.

In climbing, a pitch is a section of the wall that you and your partner(s) can climb with a single length of rope. Oftentimes pitches end and begin at natural ledges or breaks in the climb. These inbetween moments serve as natural rest stops in the climb. Utilize them. Drink water, take some deep breaths, and look around. Even after the first pitch, you might be so high up that you surprise yourself. In these moments, let your accomplishments sink in. Whether you cruised upthis particular pitch or repeatedly fell at the crux, you’re now one pitch closer to having climbed a big wall. At the top of each pitch, look down and see how far you’ve climbed. Then, look up and take in the view. The world will look so different from up here. Sometimes this new perspective is all you need to motivate you up to the next pitch.

Step 7: Keep climbing till you reach the top.

Some big walls are bigger than others. Some you might climb in a matter of hours. Others take longer, and including planning and reflection time, some big wall climbing experiences can last a lifetime. Whether you’re climbing a shorter or taller wall, keep going, pitch by pitch, till you reach the top. Once you’re all the way up, tie-in to your anchor and take a deep breath. You’ve done it! Once your partner(s) reaches you at the top, give them a high five or a hug. Remember, you didn’t climb this big wall alone.

Step 8: Soak it all up.

Don’t rush down! Sit up top for a while and enjoy the view. You’ve accomplished something amazing, and your hard work is paying off. You’re probably enjoying a remarkably beautiful view up there. You might be exhausted, exhilarated, or emotional. Most likely, you’ll be feeling all of that and more. Soak it all up, and give yourself a pat on the back.

Step 9: Reflect.

You’ve just accomplished something amazing. Tell your friends and family. Be proud of yourself. Climbing big walls can be equal parts terrifying and rewarding. If you’re like most other climbers though, you’ll realize how monumental climbing a big wall can feel. In fact, after feeling your feet on solid ground for a while, you might even want to do it all again.

Climbing big walls provides an unparalleled opportunity for intermingling fear, excitement, trust, strength, peace, and growth. As you move forward as a climber in life, keep in mind that big walls always look so much smaller from the top.

Would you ever consider joining a band with a man? Why or why not?

The first band I was in was all men, besides me actually, and it overall was a really good experience while I was in the band. I don’t think that any of us are particularly against the idea of being in a band with some men, but I know that we have all been deeply disrespected by men in the music scene in Eugene, so we do have some reservations. There have been moments of misogyny, oversexualization, crude/crass commentary, and general belittlement from some men in the scene, both as other musicians and as attendees. I feel as though am not often taken seriously by guys in the little industry in Eugene, so I’m really grateful for my bandmates in GrrlBand because they have all shared similar experiences, in some capacity or another, which means that we’re all constantly aware of these issues and can actively try to combat them with each other and other bands. It’s not all men, but it’s enough to warrant some hesitation.

- Codi Farmer

Were you ever involved in any bands with all men? How was that experience?

Having had my first experience in a band at the ripe age of 15, and it being male dominated, it was quite intimidating to have those two aspects brought together. That being said, it was beneficial because I got

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