Treasure Island General Information
In the earliest known history of Old Providence, the island formed a portion of the habitat and territory of the Sumo Matapala Miskito Indians. The Miskitos conducted excursions to hunt turtles, lobsters, giant conch, and large fish around the island as well as to obtain lumber from the forests. While building temporary huts in which to spend the night and growing small cultivations of basic crops, they never permanently lived there and had minimal impact with no adverse effect on the natural environment. The popular belief is that Christopher Columbus himself discovered the island, however, all that is known about this first interaction is that, given the Spanish custom of naming places after the saint’s day it was discovered, explorers landed on Saint Catharine’s (Providence) on November 25th. The Spanish themselves had no interest in colonizing the island, however they claimed the first jurisdiction over it in 1538 under the creation of the Audiencia of Panama.
Santa Catalina Area: 1 km2 Population: 250
Location: 13°19´ to 13°24´N; 81°21´ to 81°24´W Capital: San Andrés, the Department of San Andrés, Providencia and Santa Catalina, Colombia Native Language: Creole English Official Language: Spanish Department Flag
Geology: Extinct Miocene Volcano Highest Elevation: 360 meters above sea level Annual Median Temperature: 26.7o C / 80o F Rainy Season: June to November Major Ecosystem Types: Terrestrial areas—dry tropical forest and agroecosystems Coastal/marine areas—coral reefs and mangroves
Spain reconquered the island only to leave it abandoned until the British arrived to recolonize it in the early 18th century with settlers from Jamaica. The new economy, based on the cotton plantations, depended on slave labor, the majority of which came from the Anglo-Caribbean and West Africa. In 1783 Britain and Spain signed the Treaty of Versailles, returning the island to the jurisdiction of Spain, and in 1822 it was formally incorporated into the newly independent Gran Colombia. With the inclusion of the archipelago Gran Colombia gained 250,000 km2 of territorial waters. The inhabitants of the archipelago had to constantly fight to remain rooted on the islands and to maintain connections with their economic and cultural roots (Jamaica) and their religious roots (English Puritans). Through this distancing from their roots due to Spanish rule, the inhabitants were able to create their own identity based on their British heritage, but free from British colonial rule.
Alligator Point
Southwest Bay 20
Allan Beach
od Go
230
w Vie
r ate hw es
200
250
Ric
ll
t
Far Enough
150
Bocachica 180
Mac a
150
Morgan’s Head
170
Hill
170
Murray Hill
Little Mountain
ul l y eG
190
Peak
es W
Bo
340
ie tf
60
260
70
ld
90
70
Burn Wood Valley
Tadee Hill
el
190
Pen Hill
250
Calaloo Point
Lo
•
Ha
st
lley
gg er
’s V
he
iew
ad
Km 15
Hil
l
Bailey
170
Hil
l
Big 100 Be n
Km 12
uf f
McBean Hill
Km 14
McBean Lagoon National Park 40
oint Rocky P
40
90
rC yste
r
40
Trail to the Peak
Hiking on Old Providence is beautiful in both views and wildlife, so watch out for Green Iguanas—which are growing rare as they are a specialty in local cuisine, Ichilis (Spiny-Tailed Black Iguanas), Blue and Green Lizards, Geckos, Black Crabs, and Hermit Crabs. Birdwatchers should keep an eye out for the Green-Breasted Mango hummingbird and Bananaquits which are most commonly spotted in the woods and near beaches.
Boxon
y Nellns Dow
Maracaibo
Ichili
Blue Lizard
Black Crab
Beware of the Cockspur trees, an invasive species on Providence, which can be identified by their black thorns in which ants live to protect the developing seeds. Even a quick brush against these trees will result in a bite that will continue to sting all day.
o nw Iro
Beaches McBean Bay
od
20
l Hil 80
Maracaibo Bay
70
Crab Cay
Three Brothers Cay
The best snorkeling without hiring a boat is off Santa Catalina and Fort Beach. The quietest beaches are Allan Bay, Fort Beach, and Kitty Wharf (which requires getting wet to get to the beach from the trail). To relax in a hammock, visit Manchineel; for beach chairs and a more touristy scene try Southwest and Freshwater. The best corn ice cream and sweet bread is at Southwest, while patacones (fried plantains) can be found at Manchineel.
Turks & Caicos Islands
Cuba
The Bahamas
Cayman Island
Haiti Dominican Republic
Ja maic a
Fisherman & his Catch-of-the-Day, Manchineel Beach
k il 80°0'0"W om et er s 710
S ea
90k
m
Old Providence Island 0 29 eters k i l o m San 725 Andrés kilo mete Island rs
ean ibb r Ca
5 25
kil
s er et om
Cartagena
Panama City
Venezuela
Pa c
i
Colombia
Gullies Beaches Trails Sidewalks Dirt Roads Paved Roads Barrier Reef Mangroves Populated Places Biosphere Reserve
Horse Racing on Southwest Beach
Horse races take place most Saturdays in Southwest Bay and catboat races from Manchineel to Rocky Point usually occur once a month. To see the artisanal fishers bring in the catch of the day, check out Manchineel, Freshwater, or Southwest. For night life, head to Roland’s Bar at Manchineel where reggae music plays until the wee hours of the morning (keep an eye out for posters advertising local bands); for a calmer experience, Richard’s Place at the far end of Southwest Bay will light a coconut bonfire Friday and Saturday nights and serve fried fish as the sun sets. For the most up-to-date information, check with locals!
Kingston 85°0'0"W
•
90
40
iz e
Bush Pass Point
Buccaneer Point
Morgan’s Head
INA
L CORA
Km 16
Northeast Hill
ek
100
B el
TOWN
Km 17
Garet Bay
El Em
90
O c e a n
Mountain
irport brujo A
Km 13
Bl
• View
e
70
P
130
O
So uth ea
Go at
Split Hill
Miltapoint Jones Point
140
160
150
Bailey ’ s Spring
Smoothwater Bay
150
Basalt Cay Palm Cay
Marshal Hill
0
340
16
0
200
Burn Hill
350
24
140
fi c
’s er v Lo ane L
n an Ch
250
50
170
Km 11
Panama
$
160
330
10°0'0"N
$i
Free Town
Cedar Valley
350
Big Hill
Costa Rica
Dock
Km 1
Patience Hill
Old John Bay
70
140
Smoothwater Bay
Nicaragua
Catalina Bay
320
Diamond Hill
Bluefields
100
340
90
130
Rock Fenot
Km 2
Sugarloaf
t h e Pe ak
M
•
n
50
ry
20
Warwick Fort
a rg
Liza Bay 130
Salt Hole
330
ill
n Gully wde
Fort Beach
Gun Point
re
Au
Tra il t o
Trum310 pet H
Old Town Bay
Old Town
330
260
Mona Bay
200
Bottom Ho us
The best hike on Old Providence is to the Peak— the highest point on the island. It takes approximately two and a half hours to ascend the 360 meters from either the trailhead in Bottom House or in Westfield. From the top, hikers can see the entire island, incoming ships, and even some of the coral reef. A shorter hike (half an hour) takes you to Morgan’s Head on Santa Catalina from which one can see the back side of Catalina with its palm-lined coast and clear waters. In the south of Old Providence there are an array of hikes with great views of Bottom House from Morris Hill and Manchineel Bay from South Hill.
Santa Catalina
60
Mount Prosperous
230
Burn Hill
290
Km 10
Trails
240
Big Rock
60
Leopard Ray off of Loggerhead Bluff
Tra il
ch Bea
Bottom House
Camp
80
200
Km 9
Allan Bay
Camp Hill
Km 3
120
Hi
ke
ly
100
Round Hill
Starfish in bed of sea grass near Santa Catalina
40
B
Men O’War nesting on 3 Brothers Cays within the biosphere reserve
The marine biology in the surrounding waters is some of the most diverse in the world as part of one of the largest barrier reefs in the Americas at 32 km long and 255 km2, covering 10% of the Caribbean Sea. However with increased population, urbanization, and over-utilization of these resources, it is important to understand that the beauty of Old Providence is dependant on a fragile ecosystem and to treat the environment with respect.
e)
240
Gu l
•
Km 4
Dagoo
Fr
l nee chi Ma n
Morris Hill
Cashew Hill
Marine Corps
110
View
120
(Salt C n F re eli ek p
230
50
El Salvad or
5. Cape of ye Woods / Ironwood Hill 6. Spyeglass Hill / The Peak 7. Foremast Hill / Manchineel Hill 8. Spring & Swamp / Bowden Gully
Old Providence
Sa
220
120
80
40
15°0'0"N
On November 10, 2000 UNESCO declared the 300,000 km2 Archipelago of San Andrés, Old Providence, and Santa Catarina the Seaflower Biosphere Reserve. On Old Providence this includes both terrestrial and marine areas, creating a “no entry” and “no take” zone extending to the barrier reef from McBean Lagoon National Park and protective zones within the Lagoon. Mangroves, the Peak Reserve, and old-growth forests were also protected. Within these reserves are numerous opportunities for eco-tourism which highlight yet protect the environment.
u lly
cu Gully
ill
ly
Scissors Hill
90
Dick Hill
yH
90
160
Cu
Laz 150
90
South Hill Km 8
Manchineel Bay
Freshwater Bay
Km 5
’s T re asu
•
Km 6
Hig 110 hH ill
o
se hou
ht
Lig
Honduras
3. Mizzenmast Hill / Split Hill 4. Bay near Treasure X / McBean Lagoon
Seaflower UNESCO Biosphere Reserve
ck G
Egypt Point
B west h t u o S
Km 7
h ea c
k ene
Big Black Point
Kitty Wharf
ro
Black Bay
Guatemala
There have been various movements on Old Providence since the 1970s proposing a variety of ways to return to the native islander culture. These range from bilingual education and television programs to the restoration of civic pride through self-governance, to tighter controls on immigration. In response to the minority ethnic concerns, the 1991 Colombian Constitution gave the current minority group of the native islanders the right to have education in English for the first time in fifty years. The constitution also allowed the islanders a more direct part in the shaping of the future of the archipelago, such as control over the residency and stay of tourists on the island. Controlling the tourism to Old Providence helps to combat the impact of an increased population on the island’s resources and to maintain this hidden paradise. So enjoy your time on Old Providence, but 1. Skeleton Island / 3 Brothers Cays please respect the native customs and the environment 2. Foul Ground / Santa Catalina and help the local economy!
Freshwater Bay
Pash Beach Freshwater Beach
ll G ul
Southwest Bay
Lazy Hi
Source: UNESCO
Mexico
Treasure Maps
With the abolishment of slavery in 1851, freed slaves took over the plantations and settled in Bottom House which is still the poorest and darkest-skinned portion of the island. Despite this, races interact peacefully with most conflicts developing between native islanders and mainland Colombians. In 1926 Colombia launched a “Colombianization” campaign to establish a Colombian culture and to oppress the strong Anglo-Caribbean culture that the population had inherited from their ancestors. From 1926 until 1975 all education was enforced by the Catholic mission—a process that had previously originated in the Protestant Church. Conversion to Catholicism became obligatory to obtain an official post as well as to receive scholarships to university. Schools closed and new ones opened that only taught in Spanish—completely ignoring the English and Creole languages of the islands—followed by a law in 1943 which decreed it illegal to use English in schools and official documents.
McBean Lagoon Mangroves
Fre sh Da wate m r
Currency: Colombian Pesos
Just before 1629, Dutch privateers and smugglers began operating out of and fortifying Santa Catalina under Captain Bluefields. At this point several crop failures in Bermuda encouraged Puritan colonists to embark on a search for new places to settle, landing them on Providence in 1629 where they worked with the Dutch to build defenses at the Warwick Fort on Santa Catalina. The settlers introduced new plants and domestic animals to the island and in 1633 the first slaves landed from Tortuga. The arrival of slaves increased piracy and smuggling as many of the slaves themselves were captured from Spanish ships, causing further conflict between Spain and England. This began a centuries-long fight for the possession of the island. At the end of 1670, Captain Henry Morgan took Old Providence from which he planned his famous sack of Panama and it is said that his buried treasure is still on the island. Robert Louis Stevenson’s Treasure Island is rumored to be written about Old Providence (see “Treasure Maps”).
Calle, A Guide to the Environment of Old Providence and Santa Catalina, 1994
Old Providence Area: 18 km2 Population: 4,500
A Brief History
Wind Direction Frequency W NW
SW
N
S SE
NE
0
½
Scale 1:26,250
E
1km
Cartography: Alison K. DeGraff Data Source: CORALINA Author: Alison K. DeGraff Photography: Alison K. DeGraff & Orion D. Remaniak