The Gentlewoman Mock Magazine

issue nยบ 22, Autumn & Winter 2020

Marguerite Seckman UK ยฃ6.50

USA $15.99

ad

The Gentlewoman Issue nÂş 22, Autumn and Winter 2020

Marguerite Seckman (pp. 180-197) was photographed by Allison Revelle outside of FĂŞte Chalet.

1

The Gentlewoman Issue Nยบ 22 Autumn & Winter 2020

oh hey!

Welcome to the Autumn & Winter 20 issue of Gentlewoman.

We hope that as you read, you become inspired.

Inspired to share your truth, stand up for what you believe in, try something new, reflect on your past and anticipate your future.

2

DIOR

chanel ad

ad

ISSUE Nº 22 AUTUMN & WINTER 2018

For the cover, Marguerite Seckman was photographed in Savannah, GA by Allison Revelle, wearing her own clothes outside of her traveling business Fête Chalet. See pages 180-197.

THE GENTLEWOMAN 73-75 Kenton Street London WC1N 1NN United Kingdom +44 20 8616 5433 office@thegentlewoman.com thegentlewoman.com EDITOR IN CHIEF: Nicole Guion ART DIRECTION AND DESIGN: Allegra St. Clair CREATIVE DIRECTOR: Samantha Lown SENIOR EDITOR: Maddie Green EXECUTIVE PRODUCER: Brooke Pumo FASHION DIRECTION: Samantha Lown, Allegra St. Clair, Brooke Pumo and Maddie Green ASSOCIATE EDITORS: Nicole Guion and Samantha Lown CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS & STYLISTS: Alex Matzke Allison Revelle Smith, Christine Evans, David Dong, Emma Devereaux, Gabrielle Ferrovecchio, Lauren Wright, Marissa Foley, Matt Sgambati, & Lian Najarian (continued on page 62)

60

THE GENTLEWOMAN ISSUE Nº 22, AUTUMN & WINTER 2020

MASTHEAD, CONTINUED CONTRIBUTING MODELS: Chloe Magpayo, Christine Evans, Cristina Londono, Gabby Gardner, Maisy Brichetto, Olivia Ruffin, Rachel Murray, Tess St. John and Valentina Shan

THANK YOU To the businesses of Shake Shack, Fort Pulaski, El Rocko, White Rabbit, Element Clay Studio, Fête Chalet, Bartley Johnstone, SCAD, and Kroger for letting us use your establishments.

ADVERTISING ENQUIRIES UK AND EUROPE Elizabeth Sims at The Gentlewoman elizabeth@thegentlewoman.com Phone +44 20 7242 8802 Mobile +44 7922 220074 ITALY Fabio Montobbio at Rock Media fabio@rockmedia.it Phone +39 0278 2606 Mobile +39 3496 195880 USA Michael Bullock michael@fantasticman.com Phone +1 917 349 0417

PUBLISHED BY Fantastic Woman Ltd., London INTERNATIONAL DISTRIBUTION MMS Ltd info@mmslondon.co.uk Phone +44 1992 676064 mmslondon.co.uk SUBSCRIPTION SERVICE Bruil & van de Staaij bruil.info © 2020, The Gentlewoman, the authors and the photographers ISSN 1879-8691

A special thanks to all of our contributors for making this issue happen. To Anthony Miller and the School of Fashion department for the assignment and opportunity. To all the Savannah College of Art and Design students who have volunteered their time in the midst of their own studies.

62

ad

66

[pp. 118-121] Zihan Yang’s jewelry is driven by a personal psychology and a fascination with the subconscious.

BOOT UP [pp. 122-131] Anchor your simplified, minimal outfit with statement boots for the fall.

FORM & FATE ZIHAN YANG

[pp.105-113] Statement jewelry gets an updated look.

HIDDEN TREASURES

[pp. 98-101] Arlene Davis, at 84, has an impressive list of accomplishments while also happily in the role of full-time homemaker.

AMBITIOUS PIONEER ARLENE DAVIS

INTERPRETATIONS [pp.88,91-92, 95-96, 103-104,115-116,131-132) An examination of a word, its meaning, and a person’s interpretation.

[pp. 82-87] Alex Matzke has developed a diverse portfolio of modern American history.

ALTRUISTIC ACTIVIST ALEX MATZKE

*

Let’s plunge into the conversations with strong, professional women of all ages, where we learn about how they got started and what it’s like to work in a “man’s world.”

PART 1

THE GENTLEWOMAN ISSUE Nº 22, AUTUMN & WINTER 2020

NATURE’S MOTHER [pp. 134-147] You are what you eat, but for some of us we wear what we eat. And we ain’t mad about it.

A sneak peak into the world of planning your outfit of the day with your dinner. Pictured here, a butternut squash paired with tones of honey and burnt orange to create the perfect winter mix.

ad

68

Who said that beautiful flower arrangements and light reflecting glasses are only for summer. Pages 171-179

PART 2

LINNEA OLSON SCHWARTZ [pp. 164-170] An accomplished market director, fashion editor, business innovator, and mother of two, joins us to talk about her beginnings in fashion.

THE HARMONIE CLUB [pp. 152-163] It’s haunted. You’ll see.

BARTLEY JOHNSTONE [pp. 150-151] One can expect to find a collection of designer vintage dating as far back as 1880 in Bartley Johnstone’s treasure-trove shop

Join us as we talk to women of all ages about their impressive careers and how they got started in their business, and where it’s takig them now. *

THE GENTLEWOMAN ISSUE Nº 22, AUTUMN & WINTER 2020

MARIE AJA HERRERA [pp. 224-232] Drinking with the Queen’s Mother is serious business.

EVERYONE HAS THAT CHAIR [pp. 214-223] It’s true.

HEATHER KNIGHT [pp. 198-113] A women truly in her Element.

MARGUERITE SECKMAN [pp. 180-197] She takes her life with a lime.

REFLECTIONS [pp.171-179] Gardening isn’t just for little old ladies anymore.

70

THE GENTLEWOMAN ISSUE Nº 22, AUTUMN & WINTER 2020

A bond pair wearing head to ankle Forever 21.

Pictured on pages 286-307.

RONIN [pp. 308-325] A modern Samurai takes on an old war zone.

THE BOND [pp.286-307] A union like no other

THE NEW NEW [pp. 268-285] A classic look with a modern feel.

SPOTTED IN THE CLUB [pp. 252-267] Head to toe cheetah. That’s all.

FRESH [pp. 234-251] So Fresh, So clean, with a burger in between.

This autumn, be bold and where cheetah from head to toe or don’t be cordinate with a friend. You can wear anything, as long as the lighting is right. *

PART 3

ad

part [pp. 118-121] Zihan Yang’s jewelry is driven by a personal psychology and a fascination with the subconscious.

BOOT UP [pp. 122-131] Anchor your simplified, minimal outfit with statement boots for the fall.

FORM & FATE ZIHAN YANG

HIDDEN TREASURES [pp.105-113] Statement jewelry gets an updated look.

[pp. 98-101] Arlene Davis, at 84, has an impressive list of accomplishments while also happily in the role of full-time homemaker.

AMBITIOUS PIONEER ARLENE DAVIS

INTERPRETATIONS [pp.88,91-92, 95-96, 103-104,115-116,131-132) An examination of a word, its meaning, and a person’s interpretation.

[pp. 82-87] Alex Matzke has developed a diverse portfolio of modern American history.

ALTRUISTIC ACTIVIST ALEX MATZKE

*

Let’s plunge into the conversations with strong, professional women of all ages, where we learn about how they got started and what it’s like to work in a “man’s world.”

PART 1

THE GENTLEWOMAN ISSUE Nº 22, AUTUMN & WINTER 2020

NATURE’S MOTHER [pp. 134-147] You are what you eat, but for some of us we wear what we eat. And we ain’t mad about it.

Alex Matzke found her passion for politically charged work in a college classroom. While documenting events like Keystone XL Pipeline Hearings, Climate Marches, Girls Rock camps, and the Ponca Tribe’s sacred corn planting, she has developed a diverse portfolio of modern American history. With attention recently drawn to her photography of Nathan Phillips of the Omaha nation, the importance of work with a strong narrative is evident. She joins us for discussion of politics, perspective, and plastic.

Interview Allegra St. Clair Photos Alex Matzke

Altruistic Activist Alex Matzke

Allegra: How did you get started in photography?

Alex: I started doing it in high school.

There was a couple in my hometown who had a wedding photography business and I became the second shooter because they had a baby and they needed help on the weekends occasionally. I knew it wasn’t the big dream that I wanted, but I knew that if I wanted to make a living doing this, I needed to understand how other people were doing it.

ASC: So you never took any classes for photography?

AM: No, my high school art teacher built a dark room out of the janitor’s closet for me. So I was doing basic black and white where I was developing the film and then developing the prints.

ASC: Can you tell us about how you got into politics and photographing political movements?

AM: In undergrad, I was doing a lot of Photoshop digital painting and I had a professor who showed me a black and white photograph by Margaret Bourke-White of black people lining up for food after a huge flood and behind them is a billboard of a white family and it’s basically like, “American Dream!”

82

And it literally juxtaposed two things in a photograph and my professor asked me, “Can you do this in Photoshop? What you’re doing with these pretty digital paintings?” And I had to say no. I started to think about how the power that images have and I had another experience where I was doing a lot of self-portrait work in order to learn the skills. And the self-portraits were not being received the way I intended, one of them basically got pulled onto a pornographic site and it wasn’t a revealing photograph, but this was not the kind of attention I wanted in order to move people. So in about 2010, I started focusing more on the Keystone XL Pipeline because that was just starting, and that led me into a lot of the environmental and political work that I’m doing now.

Margaret Bourke-White “At the Time of the Louisville Flood” 1973.

ASC: And recently your photo of Nathan Phillips recently went viral.

AM: Yeah, Nathan and his daughter were at a Ponca Sacred Corn planting and part of the work against the pipeline is creative nonviolent resistance. So donations have been raised to put up large solar panel arrays on farmers’ land who are trying to fight the pipeline because theoretically you can’t use eminent domain for a pipeline if you have to tear down a solar panel. In Northern Nebraska, along the Niobrara River is where the Ponca tribe originates from, but a little after Nebraska became a state the government came in and marched all of the Ponca people to Oklahoma. So along that path is the Ponca Trail of Tears. When they were in Nebraska, the corn that they planted is now designated ‘Ponca Sacred Corn’ because they were able to take the seeds with them to Oklahoma. When they discovered that the corn would not grow there, they saved the seeds and part of the creative nonviolent resistance is that we now plant the Ponca Sacred Corn along the Ponca Trail of Tears because that is part of what is trying to be taken by eminent domain by TransCanada to build this pipeline. Because the corn is federally protected, when it’s in the

83

“We need less plastic shit! We need to stop with the capitalism, that’s what we need. ” Senior Thesis

Keystone XL State Dept. Hearing (‘11-13)

Oceti Sakowin

Solar XL

84

People’s Climate March (‘14)

Alex Matzke ground and growing, TransCanada cannot use eminent domain to dig up a protected plant. And I’ve been working for Bold Nebraska since about 2010 as a contributing photographer just to support their efforts. This year, when the corn planting happened, the farmer who owns the land deeded that land back to the Ponca tribe. Part of the issue of the Ponca tribe being forcibly removed from Nebraska is that they’re one of the smallest landholders as a sovereign nation in the United States. Even though this is a very small offering, it’s meaningful in that they don’t have a whole lot because they were removed from their ancestral land. So Nathan and his daughter were at the planting and at the signing to give the land to the Ponca tribe and he’s the actually an elder from the Omaha tribe.

Part of the creative nonviolent resistance is pulling in allies from all tribes in the area, and the Omaha tribe, especially, has been very supportive of the work that Bold Nebraska has been doing because a lot of what we’re doing has been on Omaha ancestral land. Jane Kleeb is the head of Bold Nebraska and I really appreciate the work that she’s been doing to include the tribes.

ASC: That’s so interesting!

AM: Yeah! So when these things come up, we have photos of these Omaha elders and Jane is also the head of the Nebraska Democratic party. She’s positioned politically in a place to use her platform to speak up in defense of Nathan. So I appreciate that a photo like that exists out in the world because as I’m looking at social media and following that hashtag, not every photo of him is so warm.

ASC: I noticed there are other photos of him from previous years.

AM: It’s a very small tight-knit community out here. I see the same people every time I go to the Bold Nebraska events. I think it’s the same when I lived in Iowa, being an ‘environmentalist’ is sort of a dirty word. And because the aquifer under Nebraska that trails off into Texas is under the Sandhills and I think that when people are faced with TransCanada using eminent domain, it’s less about being a crazy environmentalist and it’s more about protecting the land and the water.

That little bit of a difference is enough to get the people that disagree on so many other issues to agree. Those other issues

85

Alex Matzke Nathan Phillips and his daughter

Elle Perez Visceral Bodies

don’t come up when we’re talking about pipelines. As much as Jane is the head of the Democratic party in Nebraska, she is also a unifier of people who are trying to protect the land.

AM: Yeah, if you want to visually empower someone, the way to do that is put them above you. I spend a lot of time rolling around on the floor, and that also explains to the campers what I’m doing.

ASC: It’s so refreshing to hear that you don’t have to be a Democrat to care about that.

AM: Yeah! I think going forward that’s the only way we’re going to get anything done.

ASC: That’s so cool! Can you name a woman of past or present that you admire or look up to?

AM: Yes! My friend Elle Perez is a photographer and they are incredible and do incredible work. I was volunteering at Girls Rock this summer in New York City, and Elle had work up at the MoMA PS1. The building is really old and only their exhibit was closed because of rain.

It was one of those things where this is someone I know in real life and I can’t even see their work. And we don’t live in the same place, I don’t get to see them very often, and the one time I go to New York, I don’t get to see it.

ASC: It sounds like Bold Nebraska is definitely a big part of your life.

AM: Yeah, I also love Girls Rock. And I’ve done it in other places too and as much as I love that it exists in Omaha, I wish it would’ve existed when I was that age. Their first summer was in 2011 and I had just done some still photos for a film that some of my friends made, and one of the women who was making that movie said, “Oh I’m gonna go make a video of this Girls Rock camp, do you want to come?” And I was like, “Yeah that sounds amazing!” So I just took photographs for them and it’s slowly grown.

In the last couple years, I’ve done a visual literacy workshop based on the documentary “Misrepresentation.” It’s great about talking about how women are represented in the media. So I basically just developed a whole workshop around critical thinking, and the idea of not holding yourself to the same standard of Photoshop. When I take photos of the young girls at this camp, I’m always trying to be eye level or looking up at them because if I’m an adult constantly looking down at people, it changes the perspective of how they’re viewed. So I also try to talk about the way I photograph them so that they have an understanding of what’s happening.

ASC: I had never thought of it like that before.

ASC: What does the world need less of and more of?

AM: We need less plastic shit! We need to stop with the capitalism, that’s what we need. We need to stop buying shit. I can’t afford it, but I really appreciate brands like Reformation. For recycling and being mindful, and still making really great looking clothes. I want better alternatives because I live currently in Omaha, Nebraska and my partner lives in Richmond, Virginia and the cheapest way for me to get to them is to drive. But that’s not sustainable.

ASC: I also saw that you took up welding, can you talk about that?

AM: That actually started in my hometown with one of my high school teachers. I had the choice to take Home Ec or Metal Shop, and I thought I would give welding a chance. I took that class and I was the only girl at the time. I just really loved it and when I walked into the shop here, it smelled exactly like the

Alex Matzke shop at the high school, and I was like, “Oh my God I’m home!” It was this weird thing where I just loved everything about it.

ASC: What is it like to be a woman in welding?

AM: The guys in my class were welding hitches onto their pickup trucks, it wasn’t geared toward art, but that’s what I was interested in. My teacher was very disappointed because he really wanted me to go to welding school right out of high school. It’s so funny now because I know that he thought this was a compliment, but he told me, “I never thought I’d give a perfect score to a girl, but you were the first student I’d given a perfect score to.” And I was like, “Thank you!”

ASC: It’s hard when you’re young and not bold enough to say, “that was a little sexist” so all you can say is, “thanks!”

AM: Right! So my folks wanted me to go to a four year school because going to welding school means going to community college and getting an associates degree at the most. So when I got my undergrad degree, I did a self-design major where I combined psychology and studio art. I then went to grad school for photography and at that point, welding just wasn’t something that came up a lot down that career path because I was very focused on cultivating freelance work and waiting tables to pay my rent. I wasn’t really thinking about welding. After grad school, my mom’s folks starting having health issues and I was finished with school and I didn’t really have a solid plan. So I figured I could be broke and teach in Richmond or I could be broke and teach in Omaha and be with my Nana. I decided to come back to Omaha to be with her, and I was used to the amount of freelance work I was able to get outside of D.C. so moving back to Omaha was kind of culture shock. I had forgotten how little freelance work exists here. And there’s sort of a mentality that art labor is not real work. So I got a lot of people asking me to do work for free and I just had to say, “That’s not how I roll.” And if I was going to have this much free time not doing the work that I had been trained to do, I wanted to learn to do something new. Welding is one of those things where, because I have the MFA in

86

photography, I can theoretically teach art at the college level, but it’s really focused on photography and filmmaking.

I couldn’t get a sculpture job with a photography degree so the idea with welding that it brought in my toolkit as an art teacher. I’m getting the manufacturing and structural certificates that the American Welding Association has signed off on saying that I know how to weld. And I know enough to know that a good structural weld is not appreciated in the art world the same way. I didn’t feel there was enough value in just being an ‘art welder.’ Perfect example: over the winter break I went with my partner to Puerto Rico where their family is from and I was able to teach a welding workshop to some farmers who had a welding machine, didn’t know how to use it, and had a bunch of farming tools and didn’t know how to fix them. So we were able to put these tools together and teach these guys how to use their machine.

ASC: Wow that’s incredible!

AM: I mean, that’s what I want to do with it. I can make pretty things all day, but I don’t really see a point because it doesn’t really help anybody.

ASC: I love your perspective on life. So do you want to be an art teacher? Or do you just want to use the welding to help people and teach them?

AM: Both. I want the welding to support my teaching because teachers don’t get paid very well.

My welding professors were telling me that, again, I’m in the wrong because they were saying, “Welding teachers get paid great!” But art welding teachers don’t get paid the same as structural welding teachers.

Right now, the next big shoot I have is at the end of the month, but it’s only because Kamala Harris is coming back to Iowa. I can’t feed myself whenever Kamala comes back. I’m happy to have the opportunity to support Kamala Harris while she’s here, but I’m hoping that the welding will fill in.

Ponca Sacred Corn & Land

Wedding Photography

Girls Rock Camps

87

Interpretation: The action of explaining the meaning of something. A stylistic representation of a creative work or dramatic role.

The Meaning of Words: a single distinct meaningful element of speech or writing, used with others (or sometimes alone) to form a sentence and typically shown with a space on either side when written or printed.

All People have their own interpretations and meanings behind words based on personal experiences. Art is another way to bring words and interpretations to life through a new media. We talked to five artists and gave them each a word and told them to describe through art what their interpretation of that word is. Our editors were tasked with taking their canvases and the word they were given and wrote their own interpretations of the art. We have laid out the comparisons of the artists interpretations and an outsiders interpretation to see how art can communicate feelings almost better than words can.

Uncertainty Confidence Loyalty Conflict and Feminism

5 Interpretations

88

Interpretations Uncertainty Noun. Not able to be relied on; not known or definite.

Artist: Bethany E. Major: Painting Plans for the Future: An art therapist for children and an illustrator.

Our interpretation: The audience can feel the unsteadiness that the artist is feeling. The bright pink is offset by the sporadic blue and etchings of white, reminiscent of fleeting thoughts. Feelings of hesitation and insecurity come through within the patchy, erratic brush strokes. People, life, expectations are, often, the root of uncertainty.

Text: Nicole Guion Photography: Allison Revelle

91

Interpretations Uncertainty Noun. Not able to be relied on; not known or definite.

Artist: Bethany E. Major: Painting Plans for the Future: An art therapist for children and an illustrator.

Artist interpretation: To me, the word uncertain means that you aren’t sure what to do or might be stuck between ideas or your creative instinct. I, specifically, was uncertain about painting this little square because it’s so small and you can see every small stroke. I chose these colors because they were in my bag and I thought it might be interesting to limit my pallet to these random colors and textures.

Text: Bethany E. Photography: Allison Revelle

92

ad

Interpretations Confidence Noun. The feeling or belief that one can rely on someone or something; firm trust.

Artist: Lauren Helgason Major: Film and Television Plans for the Future: unknown.

Our interpretation: A singular, white circle in the center of the painting gives the feeling of power and confirmation. Your eye travels from the middle of the painting towards the edges, taking in the soft, yellow/green ring and the light, calming blue. There are easy, fluid brush strokes done intentionally, as if the artist knew all along what she wanted to portray, and the ease that came doing so.

Text: Nicole Guion Photography: Allison Revelle

95

Interpretations Confidence Noun. The feeling or belief that one can rely on someone or something; firm trust.

Artist: Lauren Helgason Major: Film and Television Plans for the Future: unknown.

Artist interpretation: I painted a mirror because I see confidence as being comfortable with who you are, your appearance, as well as your personality.

Text: Lauren Helgason Photography: Allison Revelle

96

Interview Brooke Pumo Photos Marissa Foley

Modern language isn’t lively enough to describe the personality of Arlene Davis. At 84, her impressive list of accomplishments includes making waves at Tultex Corporation in its prime, from 1978-1990, selling products to major accounts including the NFL, NBA, Nike, and Walmart. All of this was done while also happily in the role of full-time homemaker. She owes it all to her strong will, work ethic, and upbeat attitude. Her experiences as one of the first women to market athletic wear in a male-dominated industry have been translated into priceless advice and wisdom for the next generation of women in the field.

Ambitious Pioneer Arlene Davis

Brooke Pumo: What was your main job at Tultex?

Arlene Davis: Initially it was to be the Administrative Assistant to the President.

I then worked my way up to being the Southern Regional Sales Executive.

BP: How did you get involved in Tultex?

AD: The company has a number of high profile prospects that were not being converted to accounts by the sales group, who was all male. They couldn’t make any of these prospects into clients.

So then in a monthly field review, I asked questions and made suggestions that I considered appropriate. Then the president said “fine you go try these ideas and see what you can do.” So that’s what I did.

BP: Wow that was really brave!

AD: Well I landed Walmart. That’s more than any of the men could say!

BP: Was it difficult being one of the only women selling for Tultex?

AD: It wasn’t hard as far as selling the brand, the brand was readily accepted and the clients took to me very easily. The problem was with the other sales reps and the fact that I was the only woman and the only one actually secur-

98

ing the big accounts. They were jealous.

They would try to sabotage my accounts, saying that the accounts were theirs or slowing my deliveries by calling the mills saying it was on my behalf and cancel my orders. This was mainly when I was working out of the Chicago office before I was transferred to the New York office.

I had to finally make them realize that I am not naive, I knew what they were doing. I will be down there to straighten you out if you try to push me around!

BP: What was the biggest lesson you learned from that experience?

AD: I would say to stand on my own two feet. To stay confident and positive no matter what.

BP: What was the best piece of business advice you received when you were starting out?

AD: I guess making sure I had a very good attitude. Don’t let negative people pull you down when you are just trying to do your job. There is a lot of negative people around no matter where you end up. Also, do not argue.

BP: Do not argue?

AD: Don’t argue with people who are trying to bring you down. It will only

make matters worse. Just let them be negative and work past it and do your job to the best of your ability, you’ll come out on top in the end.

BP: Is there anything you wish you could go back and tell yourself now?

AD: No, I don’t think so. I was the age I needed to be to defend myself and to be strong but maintain my cool. And very definitely my attitude- well I guess I would go back and say good job!

BP: Follow up question, if you could go back and do it all over again, would you?

AD: Yes without a doubt.

BP: What is a piece of advice you would give to women starting out in a male dominated field?

AD: Oh boy, well don’t be embarrassed. Fear of embarrassment will hold you back every time. For example when I was first going in to meet the Walmart people, I was the only female rep that they had ever allowed in. They made sure that I was well taken care of and well protected because there are a lot of idiots out there and, being the only female of the bunch, it could’ve been

102

99

100

Arlene Davis dangerous. There were very aggressive men who were upset that I had landed this account; it was the biggest one we had had yet. So definitely don’t be embarrassed, great things happen from confidence.

BP: Moving on from Tultex, what was your dream job when you were a little girl?

AD: I was either going to teach, or do something in fashion. There was a brief highschool aspiration to be a roller skating dancer but that didn’t quite work out!

BP: Oh Boy, well what is your least favorite fashion trend currently?

AD: Oh those big bell sleeves and the open sleeves, ugh I do not like that, its rubbish.

BP: Okay, what’s your favorite?

AD: Tailored suits and trousers.

BP: What is your favorite accessory in your closet?

AD: My alligator handbag, well all of my alligator handbags. I love them all!

BP: Who was your biggest inspiration?

AD: Sam Walton, the chairman of Walmart. He trusted my judgement when it was not typical to risk major business with a woman. He was the nicest person and he really worked hard to make sure that I was heard and I wasn’t overpowered.

He told me I was one of the best sellers he’d ever worked with and he was just a very big inspiration to me then. He was a true gentleman.

BP: What are your greatest accomplishment in life so far?

AD: Being a wife, a homemaker, the deacon at the Presbyterian Church. I am very blessed.

Arlene is pictured here with, who he would describe as, her better half. Tom and Arlene have been happily married for 34 years, and they have supported each other wholeheartedly through cancer treatments and hip replacements. They keep coming out on the other end stronger and more stuck with each other than they were before.

101

Interpretations Loyalty Noun. A strong feeling of support or allegiance.

Artist: Krista Miller Major: Graphic Design Plans for the Future: unknown.

Our interpretation: A very literal interpretation of loyalty. Dogs are a man’s best friend. Owners become codependent on their animals, just like we rely on the people closest to us in our lives. We expect mutual trust between the people we share our emotions, secrets and time with. And when that bond is broken, with dogs or human, a huge part of your life can feel disconnected and confusing.

Text: Nicole Guion Photography: Allison Revelle

103

Interpretations Loyalty Noun. A strong feeling of support or allegiance.

Artist: Krista Miller Major: Graphic Design Plans for the Future: unknown.

Artist interpretation: When I hear loyalty I can’t help but think of man’s best friend! Dogs are always there for you!

Text: Krista Miller Photography: Allison Revelle

104

hidden treasure Statement jewelry gets an updated look. Playing with sizes and materials give these pieces a modern feel, with various textures adding to their mystery.

Photography by Emma Devereaux, styling by Samantha Lown, Brooke Pumo, and Maddie Green

105

A sleek and silky Topshop slip dress paired with a dainty chain choker and THE statement earrings for the fall from Lee & Birch, Gabby serves us with some major looks knowing she is the envy of everyone’s fall accessories.

106

Seriously, these Lee & Birch earrings are EVERYTHING you need to be on top this Fall.

107

One taught us love, One taught us patience, and One Story is giving us the dainty elegance you’ll need to dress up any fit.

108

If you’re rocking the plain black Topshop turtleneck look, you’re going to need to Pumpkin Spice it up. Gabby is showing us how you can take drab to fab with stacking your statement jewelry by styling Leigh’s abstract metal with some spunky hoops from Aldo.

109

Madewell Magnets will attract ALL the attention this fall‌ if you’re not careful.

110

Seriously. All of it.

111

left: Since being original is becoming a new trend, because who really follows influencers anymore, add some local flare to you accessory collection and get something NO ONE else will have.

112

right: Gabby can tell you ALL about the handmade statement jewelry, but since a picture is worth a thousand words‌

115

Interpretations Conflict Noun. A serious disagreement or argument, typically a protracted one.

Artist: Yu Major: Motion Graphics Plans for the Future: To graduate and be a freelancer Our interpretation: It’s the meeting of two conflicting shapes – rounded and pointed. It’s a disagreement in geometric form with a radiant color story. Maybe there is a happy ending in sight with these clashing themes. However, the bright red circle indicates something abrupt and and internal struggle.

Text: Nicole Guion Photography: Allison Revelle

115

Interpretations Conflict Noun. A serious disagreement or argument, typically a protracted one.

Artist: Yu Major: Motion Graphics Plans for the Future: To graduate and be a freelancer

Artist interpretation: Because round and triangle is the symbol of conflict to me!

Text: Yu Photography: Allison Revelle

116

119

Interview Maddie Green Photos Gabrielle Ferrovecchio

After finishing a Bachelor of Arts in industrial design at Northwestern Polytechnical University (NWPU) in China, Zihan Yang took that talent and translated it into a standout portfolio of jewelry for her M.F.A candidacy at the Savannah College of Art and Design. Passionate, determined, and multi-talented, her spirit translates into a strong body of work inspired by the subconscious mind and the darkness of human nature. She has an inspirational eagerness to encourage others to follow their talents, just as she was encouraged to follow hers by her parents.

Form & Fate Zihan Yang

Maddie Green: How did you find your passion for jewelry design?

Zihan Yang:When I started my first jewelry studio class at SCAD, I didn’t understand what contemporary jewelry was at all because I came from an industrial design background.

After studying jewelry one year later, my hand fabrication skill finally caught up with my ideas so I could make the jewelry I imagined. I found out through jewelry that I can express my point of view, which connects me spiritually to my work. As my confidence in my work grew, my passion did too. After studio work every day, my body is tired, but my soul is not. That’s how I know my passion is strong.

studying English and applying to universities. I applied for the jewelry graduate program at SCAD because there were classes available to me as an industrial design undergrad, and I knew nothing about jewelry at the time. It was the start of a new adventure.

I’ve been studying jewelry now since 2015 and I feel like I’ve grown into a strong artist that can use my jewelry as a medium to express my point of view. I’ve had opportunities to participate in different craft shows such as the 2018 Smithsonian Craft2Wear Show, the 2018 Philadelphia Museum of Art Craft Show, and now the 2019 American

MG: What is your personal or professional motto?

ZY: Do your best first, then accept the fate.

MG:Where did your tenacious spirit come from?

ZY: My athletics career. I started my swimming athletics career when I was in the fourth grade, and it continued for 7 years. It built my perseverance and resilience. Even now I feel like I benefit from that experience and I always will.

My parents also emphasized from a young age that I didn’t have to be like all the other children. At the time I didn’t understand, but now I might.

MG: How has your experience been living and working in the United States?

ZY:So far so good! When I first came to the US in 2014, I studied English in Wisconsin. I didn’t enjoy studying abroad at the time because my English was poor and I felt really lost. I hadn’t found what I wanted to do yet, while still

118

Her work has been recognized and awarded by the Women’s Jewelry Association, Philadelphia Museum of Art Craft Show, Gallery of Sulfur Studio, Fahm Hall Gallery, and the International Art & Design Exhibition: Makers Movement in 21th Century in South Korea.

119

“Do your best first, then accept the fate.”

122

Yang’s work is based on the construction of different organic forms and geometric structures through the repetition of small elements. Made of precious metals, simple colors, and dynamic forms, Yang’s work is driven by a personal psychology and a fascination with the subconscious. Her thesis practice focuses on her personal reflections and definitions of the darkness of human nature through traditional formal elements of jewelry.

Craft Show in Baltimore coming up. These have been excellent opportunities for me to meet some great artists and learn from them.

MG: What’s your favorite thing to come home to after a long day?

ZY: My favorite thing to do is put on a movie or a TV show on my cell phone as background noise and then just be in a daze! Really- not doing anything and just sitting down or hanging out in bed after a busy day of studio work. I come home late and it’s the only time of day I can be by myself and do some self-reflection.

MG: Do you have any advice for young female creatives?

ZY: Make your decisions for you and be responsible.

Always be yourself, do what you believe in, and keep at it because it’s never too late to get better. An independent mind and perseverance will bring you everything which belongs to you.

121

MG: What are you most proud of?

ZY: My parents. They support me in everything I do and encourage me to be better. They’ve allowed me to see and explore the world, which isn’t just material support but also spiritual support.

Also, it was such an honor been chosen as a winner of the 2018 Designer/Creator Scholarship Award from The Women’s Jewelry Association. I worked an internship during the summer of 2018 at Barbara Heinrich Studio, and it was an extraordinary experience for me learning outside of the school. For me, having a successful, studio-based jewelry is my end goal. She has also been a great mentor for me and pushed me to do better. I’m proud of that.

Boot up Anchor your simplified, minimal outfit with statement boots for the fall. Grab a pair, or two, for your staple winter wardrobe.

These boots are made for walkin’, and that’s just what they’ll do.

Be on the lookout for the newest Fall/Winter 20/21 trends in the streets this season.

122

These brown and black patent leather Jeffrey Campbell Platforms are just the statement you’ll need whether it’s walking to grab that nonfat caramel macchiato, or being the outfit envy of everyone at work.

They’re just THAT good.

123

Who ever said you can’t wear white after Labor Day was seriously disturbed because Coach is serving some SERIOUS fashion DO’s and we are SO here for it. White leather and studs? Yes please.

124

The thrifters in us all are screaming with joy at these amazing Goodwill finds. Who knew you could rock the latest trends and not break the bank? Oh yeah, we did.

125

126

BAM! Look what we have here. Another chic and Posh Spice approved find from Goodwill. They say their mission is to better the community, little did they know it was the Fashion Community.

127

128

We wouldn’t be doing our Boot Fans justice if we didn’t throw in the other end of the spectrum. These thigh high Miu Miu’s are classics that will never go out of style.

And you know what they say, keep your expectations high and your boots higher.

Interpretations Feminism Noun. The advocacy of women’s rights on the basis of the equality of the sexes.

Artist: Daniela Guevara Major: Fashion Marketing & Management Plans for the Future: Become a creative or fashion director, but also a dog mom.

Our interpretation: Free the nipple! The war cry of the feminist movement for the past fifty-five years. Breasts come in all different shapes and sizes, just like woman all over the globe. But, it’s not about a radical, nudist statement to oppressors, it’s about expressing rights and rejecting objectifying stereotypes that women have endured for centuries. This image supports being being able to walk down the street in prideful strides - unburdened and free.

Text: Nicole Guion Photography: Allison Revelle

131

Interpretations Feminism Noun. The advocacy of women’s rights on the basis of the equality of the sexes.

Artist: Daniela Guevara Major: Fashion Marketing & Management Plans for the Future: Become a creative or fashion director, but also a dog mom.

Artist interpretation: I drew boobs, but not everyone has boobs. Feminism covers so many spectrums of ideas.

I chose to represent body image because people are constantly shamed for their bodies and that’s what I am showcasing.

Text: Daniela Guevara Photography: Allison Revelle

132

137

The carrots are paired with a St. Patrick’s day green crinkled shirt from Banana Republic, a kelly green blazer from Goodwill, and crinkle pants from Urban Outfitters.

Nature’s Mother

Photographed by Allison Revelle.

Styling by Samantha Lown and Allegra St. Clair

138 134

Roasted Brown Butter Honey Garlic Carrots Brown butter makes everything better. These carrots are a satisfying side dish to a meat or vegetable-based entre on a crisp autumn evening.

Prep time: 5 minutes Cook time: 20 minutes Ingredients: 2 lbs. large carrots, cut into 2 inch pieces ½ cup butter 3 tbsp honey 2 garlic cloves, chopped salt and pepper parsley, chopped for garnish Preheat oven to 425 degrees.

In a medium saucepan, add the butter and cook over medium high heat.

Continue to whisk for a few minutes until the butter starts to become frothy and brown. Add the honey and garlic and remove from heat.

In a large bowl add the carrots and drizzle the sauce on top.

Toss until coated and spread evenly on a large baking sheet.

Season with salt and pepper.

Bake for 15-20 minutes or until carrots are tender. Transfer to a serving dish and garnish with parsley.

135

The purple kale is paired with a 100% Merino wool sweater from Ann Taylor, a button up jacket from Goodwill, and the Sloan pants with an ornate detail from Banana Republic.

140 136

“Purple Kale Powerhouse Salad�

Purple kale is one of the most nutrient-dense vegetables on the table. Get the most of this veggie-based meal by adding protein or a whole grain substitute for a refreshing take on your everyday salad.

Prep time: 10 minutes Ingredients: 3 cups of purple kale, finely chopped 1 cup of red cabbage, finely chopped 1/2 cup of tomatoes, cubed 1/2 avocado, chopped 1 tbsp of pomegranate seeds 1 tbsp of onions, chopped 1 tbsp of tahini sauce 1 tbsp of white rice vinegar Combine the kale, cabbage, tomatoes, and onions.

Add the tahini sauce and vinegar to the bowl, massage it into the salad.

Finish off by adding avocado, pomegranate seeds.

137

The swiss chard is paired with a vibrant red sweater from Forever 21 and a power red pair of suiting pants from Goodwill.

138

“Lentil and Swiss Chard Soup” Nothing better than a bowl of warm soup on a snowy, winter evening. Cuddle up next to the fire with this hearty and well-rounded meal.

Prep time: 15 minutes Cook time: 45 minutes

Ingredients: 1 tbsp olive oil, plus more for serving 1 medium onion, finely chopped 1 tbsp tomato paste 1 tsp dried oregano 1 tsp dried thyme 1 cup lentils, picked over and rinsed 1 can (14.5 oz.) diced tomatoes, in juice 2 bunches (about 1 ½ lbs total) swiss chard, stalks cut crosswise into 1-inch pieces, leaves torn into 2-inch pieces (keep stalks and leaves separate) Coarse salt and ground pepper Juice of ½ lemon In a large saucepan with a lid, heat oil over medium-high. Add onion and cook, stirring, until softened and browned, 3 to 5 minutes.

Add tomato paste, oregano, and thyme; stir to combine.

Add lentils, 5 cups water, and tomatoes with their juice; bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer, partially covered, 20 minutes.

Add chard stalks and cook until beginning to soften, about 5 minutes. Add chard leaves; season with salt and pepper, and cook until lentils and chard are tender, 15 to 20 minutes.

Stir in lemon juice.

Ladle soup into bowls. Drizzle with olive oil, and serve with bread, if desired.

139

The butternut squash is paired with a ribbed high turtleneck sweater from ASOS and a butternut button-up skirt from Madewell.

140

“Quinoa with Caramelized Butternut Squash and Roasted Brussels Sprouts” Prep time: 20 minutes Cook time: 45 minutes

Ingredients: 1 cup quinoa, rinsed well 2 cups vegetable or chicken broth 9oz shaved brussels sprouts 1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil Garlic salt & pepper 2 tbsp butter 2 cups 1/2 inch cubed butternut squash 1 ½ tbsp brown sugar ⅓ cup grated parmesan cheese ¼ cup pepitas Preheat oven to 375 degrees Bring chicken broth to a boil in a saucepan then add rinsed quinoa.

Place a lid on top then turn heat down to medium-low and simmer for 15 minutes. Fluff with a fork then set aside.

Line a baking sheet with foil. Add brussels sprouts, oil, garlic salt, and pepper to baking sheet then toss with fingers to evenly coat. Roast for 15 minutes or until golden brown.

Melt butter in a large cast iron or heavy-bottomed skillet over medium-high heat. Add brown sugar and butternut squash then saute, stirring often until tender, about 15 minutes.

Combine quinoa, brussels sprouts, butternut squash, parmesan cheese, and pepitas in a large bowl then toss and serve with extra parmesan cheese.

141

The red onion is paired with a fitting maroon shirt from H&M with a marled wool skirt from Banana Republic.

142

“Pasta with Sausage and Arugula” Prep time: 10 minutes Cook time: 30 minutes

Ingredients: 2 small red onions, sliced 1 fennel bulb, sliced 6 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 8 oz. hot or sweet Italian sausage (about 2 links), casings removed 10 oz. gemelli or casarecce pasta 1 tsp grated lemon zest 2 tbsp fresh lemon juice 6 cups baby arugula Grated Parmesan (for serving) Preheat oven to 425°.

Toss onions, fennel, and 2 Tbsp. oil on a rimmed baking sheet; season with salt and pepper.

Spread out into a single layer. Pinch sausage into small pieces and scatter around onions and fennel. Roast until vegetables and sausage are cooked through and well browned, 25–30 minutes.

Meanwhile, cook pasta in a large pot of boiling salted water, stirring occasionally.

Drain, reserving ¼ cup pasta cooking liquid.

Combine vegetables, sausage, and pasta in a large bowl. Add lemon zest, lemon juice, remaining 4 tbsp oil, and ¼ cup reserved pasta liquid and toss to coat, until sauce comes together and coats pasta. Toss in arugula.

143

The orange bell pepper is paired with an Anthropologie tie detail ribbed sweater and polka-dotted culottes from Anthropologie.

144 144

“Breakfast Potatoes” Prep time: 10 minutes Cook time: 40 minutes Ingredients: 2 ½ lbs. red potatoes, cut to chunks 2 cloves garlic, minced ½ onion, chopped 1 green bell pepper, chopped 1 red bell pepper, chopped 2 tbsp olive oil 2 tbsp butter, melted ½ tsp seasoned salt ¼ tsp cayenne pepper Preheat the oven to 425 degrees F. In a large bowl, toss together the potatoes, garlic, onion, green bell pepper, red bell pepper, olive oil, butter, seasoned salt, cayenne pepper and salt and pepper.

Pour potatoes onto a rimmed baking sheet.

Bake for 15-20 minutes, tossing twice during baking.

Raise the heat to 500 degrees and bake until crispy, about 10-15 more minutes, tossing twice.

145

The acorn squash is paired with a ruffle sleeve sweater from Banana Republic and a faux suede zip-up skirt from Forever 21.

146 146

“Turkey Pesto Stuffed Acorn Squash” Prep time: 10 minutes Cook time: 30 minutes

Ingredients: 2 small - medium acorn squash cut in half, seeds removed 1 lbs. of Jennie-O extra lean ground turkey breast 1 medium onion diced 2 garlic cloves minced 2 handfuls of spinach roughly chopped ⅓ cup sun-dried tomatoes packed in olive oil 1 cup parmesan shredded ½ cup pesto 1 tsp olive oil ¼ tsp salt ¼ tsp pepper 1 tsp Italian seasoning Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Place acorn squash on a parchment paper lined baking sheet, cut side down.

Bake for 30 minutes, until soft. Then remove from oven and let cool slightly.

Heat olive oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add ground turkey breast and onion to the skillet. Cook until turkey is lightly browned, (temp 165), and onions are translucent, about 8-10 minutes. Season with salt, pepper, Italian seasoning, and red pepper flakes.

Add in garlic and spinach. Cook until spinach wilts, about 2-3 minutes.

Then add Parmesan and pesto. Stir to incorporate.

Stuff acorn squash halves with turkey pesto mixture.

Evenly divide the mixture between the four halves.

Finally, return the stuffed acorn squash to the oven and bake for an additional 5 -10 minutes to reheat.

147

THE GENTLEWOMAN ISSUE Nº 22, AUTUMN & WINTER 2020

MARIE AJA HERRERA [pp. 224-232] Drinking with the Queen’s Mother is serious business.

EVERYONE HAS THAT CHAIR [pp. 214-223] It’s true.

HEATHER KNIGHT [pp. 198-113] A women truly in her Element.

MARGUERITE SECKMAN [pp. 180-197] She takes her life with a lime.

REFLECTIONS [pp.171-179] Gardening isn’t just for little old ladies anymore.

2

LINNEA OLSON SCHWARTZ [pp. 164-170] An accomplished market director, fashion editor, business innovator, and mother of two, joins us to talk about her beginnings in fashion.

THE HARMONIE CLUB [pp. 152-163] It’s haunted. You’ll see.

BARTLEY JOHNSTONE [pp. 150-151] One can expect to find a collection of designer vintage dating as far back as 1880 in Bartley Johnstone’s treasure-trove shop

Join us as we talk to women of all ages about their impressive careers and how they got started in their business, and where it’s takig them now. *

PART 2

part

Text by Maddie Green

Bartley Johnstone: A Dealer in Timeless Design THE GENTLEWOMAN ISSUE Nยบ 22 AUTUMN & WINTER 2020

Hidden in the hills of Litchfield County sits a treasure-trove of a shop filled to the brim with vintage gems. At B. Johnstone & Co. in Sharon, Connecticut, one can expect to find a collection of designer vintage dating as far back as 1880 and as recent as last season’s Sportmax. Some highlights include a classic Hermès Kelly bag, a black Yves Saint Laurent ostrich feather cape from the ‘70s, and a sexy Bottega Veneta woven leather bustier. While perusing through one-of-a-kind gems, you can pair them with a selection of luxurious new furs, cashmere sweaters, and vibrant tees.

It’s a stylish mix of old and new for the modern, edgy, and classic woman.

The best part, however, might be the personalized styling advice and curation by the owner, Bartley Johnstone, that keeps locals and weekenders from New York City coming back for more. Over the 21 years she has been in business, Bartley Johnstone has accumulated a long list of VIP clients for styling and home decor, including former fashion editors, models, and current social media moguls. It’s a place beloved by all, but they’d only ever admit where their amazing Chanel blazer from the ‘70’s came from to the closest of friends. She’s a well-kept secret, while also known and loved by so many in her community and beyond.

In an age where personalization is important, Bartley gives that individualized experience to everyone, whether in person or over Instagram direct messages. For her buying style in the vintage department, there is almost always a specific client in mind. Clients know that if they show a preference for Ralph Lauren, they can count on getting a text when something suddenly appears in their size. It’s a mastery in the art of making the customer feel valued, which can be a high-stakes business when working with powerful women.

It wasn’t always about vintage for the owner. After studying fashion design at Parsons and graduating at the top of her class, Bartley secured a high-profile job at Federated designing private label collections sold to hundreds of thousands. If you ask anyone in the industry, however, they’ll say it’s a fast-paced environment that isn’t exactly family friendly. Bartley describes her bosses and peers seeing their husbands and children for maybe 3 hours per day, and often feeling too drained to even enjoy that time when it came around. It wasn’t the kind of life she envisioned for herself and decided to branch out into other things. Her B. Johnstone & Co. creation is her living the dream, with a happy balance of family life and fashion and interior design business.

182

151

Photography by Emma Devereaux, styling by Samantha Lown and Maddie Green

Don’t let the seasons get in the way of your style. Here, dark and mysterious tones and textures mesh together to create a sensual autumnal pallet. Pile on opulent textiles in various textures to look and feel like royalty, even if there are no plans to go outside. Vintage clothing provided by Bartley Johnstone.

Bartley Johnstone x The Harmonie Club

The Harmonie Club is a Jewish Gentlemen’s Club that was formed in Savannah GA on September 28, 1865. Designed by John S. Norris in 1853, this building still remains and is a prominent landmark of the cities history. Valentina wears a chocolate Morélle silk blouse under a vintage woven paisley cape made of English wool that dates back to 1880. It’s a true example of a timeless classic.

153

1.The first rule of the Harmonie Club: you do NOT talk about The Harmonie Club.

2.Apart and in concert, Harmonie Club members must strive always toward a resonant impression.

152 154

3.On Wednesdays, Harmonie Club members shall wear pink‌ but when in doubt wear red.

4. In every thought, word, and action, Harmonie Club must embody, impart, and inspire the Club.

She is wearing a leopard print AllSaints dress with ruffle details and dashes of red paired with a timeless pair of thigh high Miu Miu boots.

The Gentlemen of the club had some special visitors throughout their stay in the Club, some have moved on. Some have not.

174

At the top of the staircase, looking over the third floor,

157

The Shrouded Lady is still here; Here, Valentina wears a copper shimmery number from Anthropologie paired with a metallic jacquard skirt with a print reminiscent of falling leaves. The couture number has lost its branded tag over the years, but not its beauty.

176 158

177

178 160

Valentina covers a simple black turtleneck with a vintage Gloria Sachs jacket complete with golden sequin details. Gloria’s brand closed in 1986, so a piece like this is truly a rare find- just like this collection of vintage suitcases and foxhead art print.

To find her, look not far but near.

179

We move beneath her watchful gaze; Where on East Jones where she spends her days.

180

163

THE GENTLEWOMAN ISSUE Nยบ 22 AUTUMN & WINTER 2020

The

hard truths of success Linnea

with

Olson-Schwartz 164 164

165

166

Photos by Bill Durgin, styling by Linnea Olson-Schwartz.

Linnea Olson-Schwartz An accomplished market director, fashion editor, business innovator, and mother of two, joins us from her home to talk about her beginnings in fashion. Armed with industry expertise, quotable moments, and hard truths about success, twenty years later she is back in the game and ready to pass on her knowledge to the future of fashion creatives.

Interview by Nicole Guion Photos by Bill Durgin Styling by Linnea Olson-Schwartz

Linnea Olson-Schwartz this weekend because I would never have chosen that, but my dad basically said if he was going to pay for college I needed a practical, useful degree.

NG: And a career!

LOS: I probably would have majored in English or art history, but I’m actually very happy I was because many people in fashion don’t know how to manage and I think that’s actually why I rose up the ranks quicker than most people. Turns out he was right, of course.

Photos by Bill Durgin, styling by Linnea Olson-Schwartz.

Nicole Guion: You’ve mentioned before how you got into fashion was a little bit unplanned?

Linnea Olson-Schwartz: My first job was full time at Vogue. Just a few weeks out of graduation I was basically interviewing. I’d always wanted to work at magazines, but it seemed completely implausible so I was thinking along the lines of advertising would be where I’d end up.

But as I was interviewing, and I was interviewing at a lot of places because I had no money and rent to pay, so I was going to every possible interview that I could get my hands on. I had a few different offers at the time, but obviously I took that one at Vogue.

It was on the business side, which I kind of knew I didn’t want to do, but I wasn’t going to turn down the opportunity to get my foot in the door. I was second assistant to the publisher, which is the same role in The Devil Wears Prada that Anne Hathaway has, except she was second assistant to the editor.

NG: That’s so cool! What did you study in college to get yourself there?

LOS: Business. I just had this conversation with my mom and dad

168

NG: Where else have you worked?

LOS: Vogue was a year, and it was a very mutual parting because I was getting bored of the job and he was getting bored of me getting bored of the job. It wasn’t that I couldn’t handle it, it’s just not what I wanted to do long term. I was already looking at what I was going to do next.

Condé Nast had a rover program like a temp system so I roved around for a few different executives. He put me in that system, which was a gift to me. I ended up at GQ being Jim Moore’s assistant, who was the creative director at the time, and a shooting assistant at the same time. It was a really great experience. Even after I moved up and was promoted to associate fashion editor he never let me stop being his assistant because I was really good at it! But I had really always wanted to work for a small independent magazine from the day I started fashion.

It was my dream. Once again, someone I worked with back at GQ, became the editor in chief of Surface and offered me the job for fashion director. It gave me complete creative freedom and I did that until my first daughter, Delphine, was born. I left full time after my second daughter was born. Definitely worth it in the long run, even though I might have lost my health. I was never not going

into the office – it was crazy.

NG: Wow that’s a lot! What are you up to these days?

LOS: About one year after my old boss from surface, not the one who hired me but the next one who came in, put me in touch with someone consulting on these industrial design and jewelry sites and he’s still my business partner all these years later. We started Hatch, which the original concept was that these small jewelry designers would have a bigger platform to get their jewelry out to the world through a subscription service. In a lot of ways it worked and didn’t work – it actually worked too well because we had to waitlist and cap it! But we ran out of money. He was funding it by himself buying the inventory and jewelry. We know how to make it work now, but it’s not the route we wanted to go. We decided we wanted to focus more on our new weather app, but we’re waiting right now on a redesign. That’s a brief outline of my life!

NG: What’s the best piece of business advice someone gave you when you were first starting out?

LOS: Well I don’t know if its technically business but the best piece of advice I ever really got was from Jim Moore at GQ. He was basically like “No is not an option.” Every time he asked me to do something completely outrageous, my initial reaction was always “that’s crazy!” never going to happen. But almost always I figured it out. He had this theory that everyone can deliver a vision of what you want. If you’re asking for the stars, even if you’re working with big celebrities (in these cases Tom Hanks, Tom Cruise, Russel Crow) always working with really big celebrities with big ideas – and he was a big ideas guy. For me, when I was in my 20’s, I had no idea how it was go-

ways stuck with me to this day.

NG: That’s great advice! You just have to make it work sometimes.

LOS: Yea and if you are working for someone who is really successful and really good at what they they’re going to expect that too. The second best piece of advice that I ever received was also from Jim Moore, and it was that it’s better to admit you made a mistake than to cover it up and make a bigger mistake. He used to say he didn’t mind if I went to him and said, “Oh my god I cannot believe I just did this! I’m so sorry we need to fix it.” Just admit your mistakes sometimes because it shows so much more maturity. Nobody is expecting you to be perfect. As long as you’re hardworking and honest and have a sense of what’s going on around you, you’re going to learn from it. That’s something I’ve taken with me even outside of my personal life.

NG: And then the people who won’t forgive you are not the people you want to be working with professionally.

LOS: Yea exactly! Because there’s no chance on Earth they didn’t ever make a mistake.

NG: What would you tell yourself 20 years ago that you wish you had known back then?

LOS: Well, first job out of college I’d say look at the bigger picture.

I got lucky that he put me in the Rover program, but I could have burned that bridge. And I did learn that lesson after the first year which is why I never burned a bridge in a work setting. Basically, as I’ve shown you, it has shaped my career. It doesn’t matter if you think the job is beneath you, annoying, tedious, or underpaid: you have no idea what’s going to come from it. Even though it might not be the right thing in that moment, you

have to think much bigger picture. If you can remember that and appreciate it and keep your head focused, it will definitely be rewarded long term.

I think that was really truly one of the best things to ever happen to me – that ending with Ron Galotti who, fun fact, inspired Mr. Big in Sex in the City. The way that that ended, it was a really good lesson for me.

NG: Do you think the industry has changed at all within the past couple decades that you would do things differently now? Or give advice to someone who wants to choose your career path?

LOS: I mean it’s much harder now because there are much fewer positions, they’ve consolidated a lot and things have moved online. Digital media has faced a lot of layoffs, so I think it’s changed dramatically. I think if I was starting out again now I would probably pursue essentially the same path which was to find somebody I really respected and try to work for them. This actually happened to me on the other end: I had people reach out to me all the time asking to intern for me, even if it meant taking a side job. Getting your foot in the door and doing whatever it takes, even if it’s one day a week, just finding the person you really want to work for and just going for it.

it in a heartbeat, but it is pretty hard when you have kids to go that route.

Plenty of people do, but that just isn’t what I wanted.

NG: What do you think the world needs more of these days?

LOS: It’s partially work ethic and the right attitude. Young companies have upper management people my age, which is crazy young, nobody in their 30’s and mostly other people in their 20’s. I think young people these days, who aren’t much different from young people when I was young, come out and they think they have big ideas and they’re going to get this amazing job, rise really quickly, get stock and retire early. Which happens to some people, and great for them!

But for most people on Earth, you really have to put in the time and build the networks. Work hard and build relationships because so much of this is about relationships, and showing you are a good worker. Maybe you don’t know the answer to everything because nobody is expecting you to know the answer at 22 but if you ask the right questions and figure it out and work hard, it’ll work.

NG: Are you finding it difficult to get back into the industry yourself?

LOS: If I wanted to get back into magazines specifically I think it’s essentially impossible at this point.

Also, it’s not really a family friendly kind of job. With fashion weeks all over the world, events every night, long hours, celebrity styling, shoots everywhere, it’s a lot. People do it, for sure, but it’s a choice you make.

You’re doing all of that because you love it, and it’s totally worth it for the first 15 years. I wouldn’t have changed

169

Linnea Olson-Schwartz

170

Photos by Bill Durgin Styling by Linnea Olson-Schwartz.

Clean lines and soft shadows bringing light and a rejuvenating presence to your everyday life. In lieu of spring fever, opt for an autumn/winter style bouquet. Photography by Christine Evans, set design by The Gentlewoman.

reflections

Baby’s breath, white linens, translucent glass for a monochromatic arrangement during the colder months.

173

Originating in China, spider mums symbolize liveliness and have striking features and tints. Spider mums are late bloomers, typically opening up in October and November, and can last up to 20 days in a open vase.

How to care for your spider mums: Plant in direct sunlight or partial shade.

Whether you are cutting for repotting or a vase, make sure you give them some breathing room.

Spider mums are top-heavy bloomers, so avoid placing them too close.

After cut and placed in a vase, replace water frequently, as it becomes cloudy.

175

Spiced raspberry and mustard yellow combine to tell a strong fall color story, even though their blooms lean more towards spring. Try this color combination in loud patterns and prints or in something as simple as a gold necklace on a purple sweater.

176

Calla lilies have a strong legacy of bringing life, innocence and purity to individuals, and bloom all year long.

How to care for you calla lily: Can be planted, cut or repotted.

Can grow in full sun or partial shade.

Cut calla lilies can last up to two weeks in a vase. Recut and replace water every three days.

Handle with care, as they bruise and brown easily.

179

The chemist of cocktails

Marguerite Seckman 180

serves a glass of life with a pink umbrella.

Before Marguerite Seckman does anything, she has to ask herself, “when I am 80 years old & look back on my life, what will truly matter?

What will I regret missing? Would I be happy with this choice?”

At 25, she’s juggling a lot of things. After completing a chemistry degree at Georgia Southern University and working at a plant in Savannah for 2 years, she decided she needed something more. From this, fête chalet, her online event planning business and mobile bar setup, were born. It’s her unique way of connecting to the funky Savannah community she loves so dearly.

Portraits by Allison Revelle

Marguerite Seckman Marguerite’s charming fête chalet mobile bar, serving up unique kombuchas, cold brews, craft sodas, wines, and beers on tap, is housed inside of an old camper she acquired from Craigslist a year ago. After four months of hard work and renovations, which included demolishing the existing kitchen setup, replacing the floorboards, painting the body a crisp white, and building out a bar setup, it was open for business. On weekends you can find fête chalet and Marguerite parked in various locations in downtown Savannah and in local farmers markets, or you can book her online for weddings and special events. For her, it’s all about bringing a community together and including everyone in her dream. For Savannah, it’s a unique addition to the engaging city, filled to the brim with people searching for a good time.

Savannah is a far jump from her hometown in Rome, Georgia. While her upbringing by self-proclaimed “hippie” parents has opened her eyes to the beauty the rest of the world has to offer, she wasn’t getting that from her hometown. A closed-minded community wasn’t what she was looking for when she thought about her future, and so she set her eyes on the city. It was difficult to leave people she loves, but her dream was something unlike the community had seen before.

With that comes challenges, and in an urban environment, it’s much easier to find different perspectives and creatives who will understand.

With her upbeat attitude and the amount of work she puts into her growing business, you’d never guess she had another full time

Text by Maddie Green

job. She’s still putting in work at a Savannah chemical plant, where she notes some distinct similarities between her two occupations. In both worlds, it’s about providing a customer with a happy and memorable experience. Building relationships is a skill Marguerite seems to have mastered. Even when sitting down with us for an interview, we were treated like old friends.

We chatted at an old picnic table sprinkled with pollen (in true Savannah fashion) as she sipped one of her signature cold brew coffees.

All the while, a farmer’s market was in full swing behind us and the fête chalet traveling bar was ready for customers. Two comfortable lounge chairs and a tall potted plant call for customers to come sit in them in front of her setup, and the people were listening. In between questions, Marguerite would shoot up to answer customer questions and fill orders, her smile never leaving through it all.

Her ability to manage a good time is a wonderful testament to fête chalet’s beginnings as an online planning service. Online, groups can count on her to organize lodging and activities for their trip to Savannah so they can show up with a fun list of things to do. It broke Marguerite’s heart to see groups of bachelorette parties stuck on the main strip and glued to their phones looking for things to do. By partnering with 40 businesses around town, fête chalet will show you that there is much more to Savannah than River Street and Savannah Slow Ride.

Her inspiration to begin the project started with her love of parties and

bringing people together. First experiences in party planning were back in her college days, where she put together small events for clubs and groups and really found a love for it. She’s so into it that if she only had 24 hours left to live, she would throw a beach party. More specifically, she would throw a beach party in the Caribbean with dancing, Reggae, a mojito in hand, all of her favorite people in the world.

The love she has for her community of friends and family ties into her idea of success. For Marguerite, it means doing what you love and being able to live off of the money that makes. Sure we have all heard the “do what you love and you will never work a day in your life” line, but to Marguerite the work means nothing if it keeps her from traveling or sitting down to dinner with the people she loves. With that in mind, she has sent in her letter of resignation to her current job to run fête chalet full time.

What gave her the drive to do it is the same thing a lot of young men and women coming out of college realize- maybe the degree that you picked isn’t what you want to do with the rest of your life. “Working in a place where you’re unhappy can push you in that direction. And I can’t say that I’m completely unhappy because it’s a great job and a wonderful opportunity, I’ve just realized it’s not me and what I want to do with the rest of my life.” Of course there is fear that comes along with making a transition like that and then the lasting fear that the idea will become obsolete, but Marguerite deals with that by reminding herself that she lives her life first,

Marguerite’s entrepreneurial skills are put to good use through her boutique bartending service and party-planning business. Here, she is wearing her Fête Chalet t-shirt, Gap denim shirt, and American Eagle denim.

184

“Being in a situation where you recognize change needs to happen will really push you to say ‘OK- how can I make this happen and what choices do I need to make for me to reach that?’”

185

Marguerite Seckman and the worst thing that can come from not chasing a dream is regret.

“Being in a situation where you recognize change needs to happen will really push you to say ‘OK- how can I make this happen and what choices do I need to make for me to reach that?’”

Getting her business to where it is now was a challenge. Her uncle, an owner of several businesses, once said that “if you knew what it took to start a business, you would never start a business.” Initially skeptical, she now fully understands what his piece of wisdom meant. Constantly having to go through government departments and levels of bureaucracy when creating fête chalet and her mobile bar added a lot of stress but she wouldn’t trade it now. She’s proud to have brought fête chalet into fruition in the same way that she is proud of other women bringing their business ideas to life with determination and perseverance. Everyone hits roadblocks and obstacles, but there is nothing more rewarding than seeing goals become a reality.

This level of determination is something that runs in Marguerite’s blood. Her aunt, who she men-

215

tions as being someone who has played a major role in her life, also owns her own business. She, like Marguerite, is always going when it comes to work and encourages others to follow their passions. When Marguerite was young and briefly interested in fashion, her aunt was the one to encourage her to go to a fashion camp in New York City at the heart of it all.

The motto they share is “if you have a dream, go for it.”

However, most people are surprised to find Marguerite behind the traveling fête chalet bar. When people ask about the renovation and hear that she was the one to complete it, they’re surprised. Shocked even that a woman can do the manual labor, let alone enjoy or be interested in it. They also might find themselves thrown off by the fact that she’s only 25 and has accomplished these things. Marguerite says nobody has been outright nasty about it, but there is definitely some ageism and sexism at large here. As disappointing as it is, she also notes that it’s a sign of breaking through barriers and proving that women are more than capable.

It’s hard not to get political when talking about

Four months of hard work has never looked so good. Much to some of her customer’s surprise, Marguerite renovated the camper primarily by herself (with the help of a few good friends). Check her insta @fetechalet for the full scoop . Power tools. Power lady.

188

Marguerite Seckman women in business because of how often the women’s movement as a whole is mentioned. With almost every interview we conducted for this issue of the magazine focusing on women’s empowerment and entrepreneurship, people were initially reluctant to be political. By encouraging these women to speak their minds, we open up a channel that exposes women’s struggles in business and brings awareness to problems still at hand. We have come a long way as a society to be more inclusive, but are far from the end of our journey.

Inclusivity is necessary in everything that we talk about. To Marguerite, it means that when starting a business, she made sure that everyone, regardless of race, ethnicity, religion, gender, or sexuality could feel welcome in her company. It’s a frame of thought given to her by her travels to Europe and Africa in the past and influenced by the multicultural people she surrounds herself with. Having these experiences will allow you to realize pretty quickly that people as a whole have a lot more in common than one would initially think.

Inclusivity also means that by being a feminist, men must still be encouraged to have a voice. It also means not thinking poorly of another woman who is also a feminist, but might want to pursue a more socially traditional role as a homemaker or mother. Women can run businesses and households, and frequently do both, but inclusivity allows us to recognize that those choices don’t make anyone better than anyone else. The more we can support each other, the better off we

as women will be.

The quote, “Not one drop of my selfworth depends on your acceptance of me,” really spoke to Marguerite coming from a small town. People could be critical in the small-minded community since she chose a different path than most of her peers, but they aren’t allowed to influence her. Just like in many instances in today’s world, it really doesn’t matter what you think about how other people live their lives because, more often than not, you’re not involved.

According to Marguerite, the world needs less hate. “Your own community is not always ‘it’. Embracing people from other places is important and with all of the hate currently happening in the world, it’s important to be supportive of anyone and everyone.”

When asked what the world needs more of, her answer was simpleparties and celebrations. People glorify being busy and then curling up on the couch to watch Netflix after a long day. Everyone thinks they’re too busy to actually enjoy their lives.

Maybe next time turn off the TV, invite some friends over, throw on some dancing music, make yourself a mojito, and live your life. It’s what Marguerite would do.

189

198 190

“Working in a place where you’re unhappy can push you in that direction. And I can’t say that I’m completely unhappy because it’s a great job and a wonderful opportunity, I’ve just realized it’s not me and what I want to do with the rest of my life.”

192

204 194

Marguerite Seckman Maddie Green: How did traveling abroad in college change the way you view the world?

Marguerite Sackman: “Your own community is not always ‘it’. Embracing people from other places is important to me and with all of the hate currently happening, it’s great to show that you are a business that is supportive of anyone and everyone. When I went to Morocco it was my first time visiting a country that wasn’t predominantly Christian.

Being in a place where you walk into a hotel room with a prayer mat and seeing people praying when walking around is a totally different experience. On the ferry from Africa to Spain there was an area dedicated to prayer, which was eye-opening to say the least. Traveling makes you realize everyone is really the same regardless of geography, religion, tradition and it makes you a more loving and respectful person.”

MG: What is the biggest overall lesson you’ve learned since starting this business?

MS: “Don’t burn bridges. Working with someone and not having a good experience- you might have to work with them again and you don’t want that ugly side sticking around. People talk, especially business owners, and you just want to make sure you don’t burn those bridges. I’ve heard of experiences where people heard things, and you always want to make sure you’re professional in this small community.”

MG: What are your thoughts on the women’s movement?

MS: “I’m 100% a feminist. It gets a bad wrap - doesn’t mean anti-man at all.

You just want equal opportunity and to be treated equally. You can be a feminist while still desiring or carrying out more traditional roles in a heterosexual rela-

196

tionship. It goes far beyond that and sometimes feminists get so wrapped up in encouraging women in powerful roles that they end up berating women who dream of having a family and raising children. Women can have both at the same time. The more we support each other the better.”

MG: What quote inspires or motivates you?

MS: “‘Not one drop of my selfworth depends on your acceptance of me’ really spoke to me coming from a small town. People could be very critical in the small minded community when you choose a different path than most people. Whether you accept me or not that has no influence on me, and that’s very common in today’s world. It doesn’t really matter what you think of how other people live their lives because you’re not involved.”

197 223

THE GENTLEWOMAN ISSUE Nยบ 22 AUTUMN & WINTER 2020

Heather

Knight

is a

woman truly in her element.

198

227

200

Heather Knight

In a short period of time, Heather’s passion project, Element Clay Studio, has accidentally blossomed into a full time career. The sources of inspiration for her work are ever-evolving, with the only constants being her love of her work and teaching spirit.

Interview with Samantha Lown Photos by Lauren Wright Text by Maddie Green

Heather tifully plated bowl of pasta. While the forms of her work and her taste in décor might change, these elements are the foundation for everything she creates, tying everything together for her as an artist, designer, and person. The board is the creation of a woman with a clear idea and passion; one that she never saw herself dedicating her life to when she was a ceramics student starting as a teacher and waitress.

Nestled in the backyard of Heather Knight’s Savannah home rests her studio. Originally constructed by Julio Garcia during his early days in Savannah painting, two shipping containers connected by a tin roof create a beautiful, light-filled workspace.

Even on a cloudy winter morning, the room seems to be glowing. The light scatters off of soft ceramic bowls drying on metal racks, creating an eye-catching display of colors and textures. In this studio, the art and the architecture collide and play off of each other. And to complete it all, a scattering of succulents in handmade pots that serve as inspiration welcome you into the space. The fluid yet structured nature of her creations make it obvious that she adores the process of sculpting. As a witness to Heather working clay into one of her Turf micro tiles, the fluidity of her process and confidence in her creation are the marks of someone with skill and a vision. It’s meditative to watch the porcelain respond to her touch like it understands her. This is the process that will never change, even when the work does.

Her studio space and the pace of life it inspires have, in fact, changed Heather’s work over the years. After a move from Asheville, where she had a 3,000 square foot studio that housed her tools, retail space, and required staff, she was looking for something different. After feeling overwhelmed by the factory-like pace that her previous studio required in order to fill shelves of pottery for incoming tourists, she was ready to slow down.

It was a creative shift as well as a lifestyle shift; letting herself be inspired by the slowness of Savannah and enjoying settling down and growing her family with her husband. With a new state of mind, her work changed and adopted some new natural inspirations.

It’s hard to miss the natural inspirations in Heather’s pottery, whether you’re looking at her studio, her inspiration board, or her Instagram. The inspiration board that commands the room is a collage of pottery works, color schemes, pictures of pinecones, mushrooms, succulents, and lotus. Some images that serve as inspiration are less literal, like home décor and a beau-

202

Her career in the restaurant industry came to an abrupt end when in between sessions of teaching, she arrived at work only to have a jar of garlic hurled at her head. That moment started a pivot in her life that led to her discovering Etsy two days later via recommendation from her boyfriend at the time. After studying ceramics in school, it seemed like the perfect way to create a career from a passion. She tells me, “was just sharing a studio space to subsidize my rent so I could make stuff with no real idea that success could even happen.” When she started in 2007 during the beginnings of the site, Interior Design Magazine caught wind of her work and published an interview about her shop. Heather remembers that in the beginnings of Etsy all you needed was an amazing product to captivate an audience, but today, in a sea of shops, she recognizes now that it is harder to get noticed without the help of other platforms like Instagram.

Ironically, the subject of Instagram’s growing importance in retail and everyday lives was discussed while sitting around the table that she uses to stage photographs for her account. On the elementclaystudio page, one can expect to find a sophisticated neutral toned palette with captivating shapes and textures of her work. Close-ups of pieces that resemble succulents so realistically that you’d believe they were trapped in stone, make you pause and spectate her sculpture. While viewers of the page can feel a sense of serenity on the page, Heather notes it is a topic of stress.

Gone are the days of having work photographed professionally, and now artists are expected to know their way around cameras themselves. The competition between pages and who can curate the best image leaves her reeling and wishing her whole life didn’t have to be on the internet 24/7. “You get attached to weird things, like only getting 100 new followers in a day. So it’s hard to block out that noise. It didn’t use to be like that.”

“It’s so fast paced and I feel like I’ve ridden the wave and figured it out, but it’s always about what’s going to happen next. I have to constantly be researching and taking workshops and being on top of that part of everything. And if I don’t, I feel like my career is going to fall off the edge, which is really bizarre.”

Etsy began a movement that led people with passions to success.

The internet was a liberation for those who could not make their way to craft fairs or set up formal galleries, but the handmade movement was revolutionary in that people could now carve out their livelihoods from making what they loved and finding an audience. This independence is what Heather is most proud of,

Knight

“Time on Task” takes up a prominent spot on Heather’s shelf of important tools; it’s a testament to the importance of the phrase.

203

Here, she demonstrates how to make one of her signature “Turf Micro Tiles” by rolling individual spikes by hand and purposefully placing each one on its clay base. It’s a meditation of hers, taking time to really contemplate the way the clay shapes in her hands before she lets it go and starts with a new piece.

204

205

saying “How badass is it that I’m sitting here supporting my entire family, I have two children and a husband. I’m supporting all of us and we have this beautiful life from making art. Pretty freaking cool.”

Even though Heather left part-time teaching in her past, her teaching spirit hasn’t left. After meeting Lauren, a local Savannah College of Art and Design student with a passion for ceramics, she was engaged with her willingness to learn.

Usually hesitant to bring on people, especially after making the move away from her studio and retail space with staff in Asheville, it was a significant decision that has paid off.

Her ability to teach us in return about her experiences and willingness to share advice are the marks of an educator at heart.

Heather Knight’s mantra is a testament to this; “time on task”. A small painting with the phrase is framed on shelves next to her pottery tools, implying they share the same amount of importance in her life. While the phrase originally came to her in a traumatic way, from a high school teacher who sounds like J.K. Simmons’s character from the movie “Whiplash”, it has stuck throughout the years. It serves as a reminder to her that “anything you want to be good at, you need to spend your time doing. You can’t master your craft if you’re not spending your time doing it, so it’s just at the root of anything.”

Heather’s tenacity comes in part from her grandmother, who she describes as a true inspiration in her life. From what I can tell, the woman was a true spitfire who worked hard to give those she loved the most opportunities in life.

This strong and funny character encouraged Heather to pursue her education, make a career for herself, and never be beholden to anyone. These characteristics share overlap with traits Heather admires in creative women: courage, motivation, and bravery. It takes all of those to bear your soul to the world, and an even greater amount to keep doing it.

Even with the toxicity of social media noise and troubles facing professional women today, Heather encourages young women to fight for what can be rightfully theirssuccess. “Existing as a female creative comes with a unique set of challenges, that I’m lucky to have, but sometimes you just want to be like, can you cut a girl a break?

You know?”

In Heather’s eyes, the world needs more women chasing creative paths with strength and endurance. For humanity in general, the world needs more people who can get in touch with their inner selves and can truly disconnect with the culture that social media has created. Who knows what it’s going to take to get there, but people like Heather Knight are leading the way one step at a time.

206

Heather’s whole process is in this one picture. From inspiration to ideation to the finish product that sits here to dry before getting fired in the kiln, it’s all here.

208

There are three collections that make up Heather Knight’s studio: her collection of clay shaping tools, her collection of succulents and cacti, and her collection of glazed beauties. They serve their selected purposes while simultaneously coming together to fill the space with life and art.

209

Wall tiles in neutral colors wait for their fates in the fire of the kiln. It’s clear Heather was inspired by corals, succulents, and other miscellaneous flora when looking at these tactile pieces. The urge to reach out and touch them is strong, but we resisted.

“How badass is it that I’m sitting here supporting my entire family, I have two children and a husband. I’m supporting all of us and we have this beautiful life from making art. Pretty freaking cool.”

212

THE ALL NIGHTER

Chair from IKEA. Pillow from Bed Back and Beyond. Jacket from Lee and Birch. Sweater from Banana Republic. Jeans made by Everlane. Shoes from Nordstrom.

EVERYONE HAS THAT CHAIR It’s true. That one, conveniently-placed, chair that becomes your closet outside your closet, a personal mannequin to try all your outfits for you. Each with its own unique qualities that reflect its owner. Simplify your closet, simplify your life.

Photography by Emma Devereaux, Styling by Samantha Lown.

215

THE EARLY RISER

216

Chair from IKEA. Rug from T.J. Maxx. Jacket from Nastygal. Turtleneck found at Goodwill. Pants from Massimo Dutti. Shoes from Allbirds. Bag from Leigh’s.

THE RACE TO THE TRAIN

Chair from Goodwill. Rug from T.J. Maxx. Jeans made

by Levi’s. Sweater from Anthropologie. Dress and shoes from Banana Republic.

Rug from Target.

219

THE COSMOPOLITAN

Chair from Amazon.com. Rug from Target. Boots from Miu Miu. Jeans from DSTLD. Shirt from Talbots. Jacket from Zara.

220

THE BOHO BABE

Chair and rug from Goodwill. Shoes made by Everlane.

Jeans and jacket from Anthropologie. Shirt from ASOS.

223

THE GENTLEWOMAN ISSUE Nยบ 22 AUTUMN & WINTER 2020

British

Boss Lady

Marie Aja-Herrera 224

231

232 226

Never give up.

Be yourself.

If you don’t agree with it, say so because they’re only going to blame you and say it’s your fault anyways so you have nothing to lose.

Marie Aja-Herrera started at an early age in the fashion industry, not only breaking boundaries of what people thought was possible at the time, but obliterating them. Her career has a professor has allowed her to share her abundant knowledge with those still in school and just starting out. A vision of grace and humor, Marie has stories to last a lifetime.

Photography by Matt Sgambati, Styling by Lian Najarian, Interview with Samantha Lown.

227

Marie Aja-Hererra

228 230

Samantha Lown: How did you get involved in the fashion industry?

Marie Aja-Herrera: Oh God! I always liked fashion. My cousin, Angela, was a well-known model in the 60’s and 70’s and when I was a kid, she used to use me as her little dress up doll. I didn’t have any sisters, so she was my big sister in a sense.

She knew that I always liked fashion, and she would take me to all of these amazing places like Vivienne Westwood’s shop SEX in the King’s Row which was the very first shop they had. I’ll never forget it, I was probably 8 but I’ll never forget the vinyl floor looking like a loony asylum with all these hanging clothes and weird people!

I always liked clothing too. My father was an architect and he would paint and make furniture. He always liked dressing really well so when he bought clothes he always bought the best. He didn’t buy masses of clothing, because people didn’t really, but he would always buy the best. Dunhill, Burberry, very classic and English. I was always really exposed to really nice clothes and shops and fabrics and that kind of thing.

I was always very into drawing clothing.

Initially, I didn’t really want to do fashion.

I thought I was going to work in the movies and costume because I always liked history.

When I was a student I got an internship at the BBC working on the Dr. Who series with Tom Baker. I loved him and the film people and all of that, but the actual process of costuming is so slow. You make the stuff then you hang around- you’re sitting around and I got bored! I knew I needed a much more, you know, faster pace. I was quite academic too, so my dad didn’t want me to do fashion. He didn’t think I was tough enough, because he knew it was a tough industry. I was a very shy person as a kid and he thought I would be too sensitive, but I was determined. I got a place to study chemistry actually, funny enough, but I also got a place to do foundation at Central Saint Martins, so I did that.

My BA there was painful because it’s different to SCAD. They took 30 people, and at the end of the year they would review

and 5 people disappeared. By the end of my senior year there were 13 of us. Our professors were tough! It taught me to build an exterior, and I was very lucky. I got some great breaks, I suppose you’d say. While I’d never consider myself the most talented of them all, boy was I the most ambitious on the course.

I got to the final interview, after days of hard work, where they told you then and there if you got in. By this time, I was over it! I’ll never forget she said “Well Marie, tell me what your work is about” and I knew her background was couture. She was kind of, bitchy, which I realize now she did on purpose, but I had not slept and had cigarettes keeping me going. And I said “what do you know?” like she hadn’t worked in the industry for twenty years!

And I’m thinking as I’m saying it “oh shit it’s done” but she said “well that’s fabulous dear, well I’ll see you in September and we can continue the conversation then” and I just burst into tears. From the stress! But I was very lucky.

That brought me to a scholarship for design and I went to Poland for a year. I wanted to study the textiles and the way they did the weaving and developed the designs.

When I went back for my final 2 terms, we had the fashion show and a static show.

This little Italian man came up to me, had no idea who he was, because I really don’t care who people are. Who are you? I don’t know you – you’re not going to do anything for me. Hello – goodbye, you know? Well this guy comes up to me and gives me his card and says “if you want to know about color and textiles come and work for me in Italy.” I went to the head of my department and asked who this guy was and she said he was Paco Girombelli – the owner of Girombelli group. It’s since been bought

by Prada, since he died, but at that time they owned Max Mara, Byblos, Genny, etc.

He invited me to come to Byblos and he wanted to work on womenswear. So I went to Italy! Didn’t speak a word of Italian – I speak 5 languages but at the time no Italian. The head designer, Nina, was all designer clothes and diamonds, married 6

times at that point, but I was dyed, bleached, ripped jeans and Dr. Martins so I was the complete antithesis of her. She was great but one day she walks in and says “I am leaving – I’m getting married!”

So I thought, oh god she’s marrying this racecar driver bloke and I started worrying about what was going to happen to my job. Paco walks in and promotes me and I nearly had a heart attack! I knew in my head that if I didn’t do it right, I’d only get that one chance and that would be it, but the men who ran the menswear were super nice to me.

They really helped and I learned from them totally. I stayed with Byblos for nearly 10 years building the womenswear brand.

In my 6th year there I was at a show and Pierre Cardin came up to me and asked if I would do a diffusion knitwear line for him. It was such a different look so I didn’t think it would clash, so I did that and then several years later was offered a job as the head of pret-a-porter, which I did. All my career I’ve worked mainly in Italy, Spain, and France. Several years later, I got an opportunity to go to the far east because I knew the industry was changing and I needed to know about what we call “fast fashion” today, but it was mass production really. I didn’t know that because I’d always worked at the high end of the industry, but it’s different with time scales and costing. I worked for a contract design house, with clients from Burberry to Donna Karan to Marks & Spencer, doing fillers for whatever it is they want directly with the manufacturers on a contract basis. I ran the womens-wear and it was fabulous.

I had to go back to the UK for family commitments, but I was still working for them doing loose ends. But you can’t work a job like that and be in the UK, so Jeffrey really liked me and got me an interview with a boring English company Jaeger. I was asked to turn it into a more Italian inspired look.

I’m thinking “I don’t know” because I couldn’t relate to the brand at all. Their client is Margaret Thatcher, if that gives you an idea, and I thought I couldn’t take it home because my mother wouldn’t even wear it!

229

Marie While I’m there losing my mind, my friend David phoned me up after he got a job and went to Nike. He asked me to go to Holland because I knew how to run a team, even though I knew nothing about sportswear, and he said they wanted to meet me. I thought it was a free trip for shopping and Amsterdam if nothing else, and they paid for me to fly over. You know when you’re getting set up but you don’t know you’re being set up? Well I walked into a room with a massive conference table and I knew it was one of those psychological things where if you sat at the head of the table you were power mad but they do that sort of thing! So I sat at the head of the table. We were having a chat and I was repeating how I didn’t know anything about sportswear, that it wasn’t my background, because it’s not about clothing but the technology of it. They said they needed someone in innovation and they were pulling all sorts of different people together. I was tricked into this interview, but after when I went back to my husband in the UK I was telling him how weird it was. When I got home, David phones me and said they’re going to offer me the job of director of innovation! I asked my husband what to do. By the way, word of advice, if you don’t want a job, ask for the most ridiculous salary and they normally won’t give you the job. So I thought that was a good plan and I asked for a ridiculous number with all the perks and they said “Great! When can you start?”

It was fun – very different to fashion. The people are very different, not like fashion people at all. I liked that because they’re uptight in a different way. We were nothing like the American office. Phil Knight never liked fashion – they wanted to remain a strictly sportswear brand for real sports-people brand. To some extent they’ve become a bit more fashion, but they were different than Adidas and Puma in that right.

I think one of the things I realize now, not realizing as I was going through it, is realizing just how lucky I really was. I just don’t know – never had to apply to anything. I know it’s weird but I always went from one thing to another thing. Even with SCAD I didn’t apply to come here. Paula invited me and my husband to come and give a lecture to the students here and when I got here I found two people who I knew from England!

And they were teaching here and the vice president of SCAD at the time and I thought what the hell are you two doing here!

It was so strange. They asked if I ever considered teaching full time and my husband and I thought we’d come here for one year because we wanted to have a family. And I’ve been here coming and going ever since! But that’s essentially it in a nutshell. I think you have to just be adventurous and bite the bullet.

When I was in Hong Kong working, my boss sent me to the Philippines because they had a t-shirt manufacturer and I was going to look it over but there was a military coup d’état while I was out there! The BBC film crew was there filming it all and they told

230

me what was going on and I thought “oh my God we’re all going to die!” They flew us out of there because it was getting bad and the next time they tried to send me somewhere, I said absolutely no way. But with things like that you can’t be timid. You can’t be afraid if you really want to work in an industry. You don’t have to be mean and horrible to get ahead – I’ve never been like that.

People do a good job without belittling other people because you don’t know if the person you’re mistreating is going to be somewhere in 10 years. And I don’t like being in the limelight very much.

SL: Once you started teaching did you ever want to get back into the industry?

MAJ: Well I still do things! I get asked and my husband and I actually had a textile company that we started. He’s a painter by trade and we got him into the textile industry. He wanted to come out to visit me in Poland, but politically it was difficult and if you went you had to pay so many dollars per day. He saw an ad in the local newspaper for a printer needed for textiles. He went for the interview and came back to me saying “I went for this interview with a bloke named Zika Ascher” who was very famous but he didn’t think it could be the same one! He went there and Zika, who did all the prints for Dior, Matisse, Picasso, and everybody. Huge. He ended up working with Zika, still not believing it was the famous guy, but one day he was throwing out screens and found one that looked like a Calder. He asked if throwing it out was a good idea, and was then shooed into an elevator he didn’t know was there! They went down to the vault with all the original screens from Picasso and Matisse, worth millions, and then he phones me up and admits I was right. Anyway, they became very good friends and helped him set up his printmaking business. You don’t meet people like that anymore. This industry has changed so much and I think it’s taken all the creativity out of people. It’s all about price points and margins.

SL: So what was your favorite part of the industry back then?

MAJ: I loved to be on the factory floor or in the design room. And sourcing, going to look for fabrics and yarns. And I really, really got into the technology, especially at Nike. It was probably because of my interest in biochemistry, but I liked the yarn developments and all the new things that fabrics could do.

And now, with all this fast fashion, what people don’t realize is all it’s really doing is shrinking the market. There are fewer and manufacturers that can actually cope with that price point. It’s going to implode. And then it’ll probably go back to what it was before. But the companies that have it right are people like Inditex, the Zara group, because they control everything. They’re not just fashion people.

SL: And how do you feel about the rental and resale markets now?

MAJ: Well, those been around for awhile and you usually find that that is on the rise when people have less money. But those are growing, as well as pop-up shops because retail spaces

Aja-Hererra SL: And how have you seen SCAD grow and change since you’ve worked there?

MAJ: Oh tremendously! When I first started here, you kind of knew everybody. We had much more interaction with other departments and I think we’ve become more isolated now. That part I don’t like. The students have gotten better, I will say that. I think they’ve gotten more realistic and I like the fact that you can go to Hong Kong and Lacoste, you can’t do that at many colleges.

It’s a great experience.

SL: Did you have a single favorite project when you were working in the industry?

MAJ: Well it’s got nothing to do with fashion, but I have a very good friend David Shilling who’s a milliner and I met him because my studio looking over his building. He was really a sculptor, but he would make all of the royal hats. So in 1995 he said to me, “I need someone to come and help me do a fitting.” I asked, “Who for?” and he said, “The Queen’s Mum.” And before we went, he told me not to drink the tea whatever I do. So we are sitting with all the boxes around us. And she is a tough character, but when I met her, she had a soft Scottish accent. She asked me if I would like some tea and I thought, “Well I can’t say no!” So I said yes and I could see David in background signaling “No!” Well, what he failed to tell me was it’s neat warm gin. And I was drunk as a skunk when I left! I think that’s one of the nicest memories I have.

Fashion illustration by Marie Aja-Herrera Photographed by Matt Sgambat.

SL: That’s a great story! You have so many interesting stories, what was one of the best pieces of advice when you were starting out?

MAJ: Never give up. Be yourself. If you don’t agree with it, say so because they’re only going to blame you and say it’s your fault anyways so you have nothing to lose.

are becoming ridiculous. I don’t actually think online shopping will replace that because people want that experience. I don’t want to just sit and home and buy stuff. I think there was a point when that was on the rise, but now it’s not really. It’s kind of stagnant.

SL: What characteristic do you admire most in creative women?

MAJ: Determination and tenacity. The fact that you just have to grin and bear it and if it starts to affect you then you shouldn’t be doing it in the first place.

S: So you’ve talked about working in the industry and now you’re teaching, what do you think is at the core of teaching?

M: I think teaching is important if you’ve been in the industry. I would never advise anyone to teach if they haven’t actually experienced it. And I don’t mean three years, like really experienced it. It’s nice to give people an idea of what to expect when they’re out of school. They don’t always believe you. It’s not like people in the industry are awful, it’s just hard work. You have to really feel passionate about it. And fewer people are actually making it in the industry. Of all the fifteen people that were in my BA course, only three, including me, are still in the industry. When I was in my junior year, I didn’t have any money so I asked my friend to print me some fabric and we started a clothing business using all of the college’s resources. The great thing is they encourage you to do that.

SL: Last question, what does the world need more of and less of?

MAJ: More laughter, more humor. Less gloom and doom.

Overall, less negativity.

231

THE GENTLEWOMAN ISSUE Nº 22, AUTUMN & WINTER 2020

RONIN [pp. 308-325] A modern Samurai takes on an old war zone.

THE BOND [pp.286-307] A union like no other

THE NEW NEW [pp. 268-285] A classic look with a modern feel.

SPOTTED IN THE CLUB [pp. 252-267] Head to toe cheetah. That’s all.

FRESH [pp. 234-251] So Fresh, So clean, with a burger in between.

This autumn, be bold and where cheetah from head to toe or don’t be cordinate with a friend. You can wear anything, as long as the lighting is right. *

PART 3

part

236

F R E S H

235

Cristina and Tess road trip through Colorado on fall weekends, soaking in the falling leaves and crisp air. Their backpacks are stuffed with vintage t-shirts and colorful jackets, but snacks are always left out. This leaves room for late night Steak n’ Shake stops.

Photography by GABRIELLE FERROVECCHIO Styling by SAMANTHA LOWN & BROOKE PUMO

236

239

237

240 238

Tess mans the steering wheel on their trips. Here, she wears a “DON’T PANIC” Asos tee with a Banana Republic blush faux fur bomber jacket. She pairs with denim from Target and Adidas sneakers.

239

Cristina owns the playlist as Tess drives. Here, she wears a neon turtleneck sweater with a bright and cozy flannel wrapped around her waist, both from Urban Outfitters.

Her grey denim, also from UO, is mixed with her DSW black booties.

240

243

244

249

247

248

249

250

F R E S H

Tess, an novelist, and Cristina, a ski instructor and part-time blogger, grew up next door in the Colorado mountains, always craving the open road and mint chocolate chip and strawberry milkshakes.

Models: Cristina Londono and Tess St. John. Styling assistance: Allegra St. Clair.

251

SPOTTED IN THE CLUB For the woman who wants to be seen. Gone are the days that faux animal prints are lost to what’s taboo, these statement prints (particularly cheetah) are loudly proclaiming their resurgence. Head-to-toe cheetah looks will have crowds roaring and you purring in luxury.

Photography by ALLISON REVELLE Styling by SAMANTHA LOWN & ALLEGRA ST. CLAIR

252

255 253

256 254

Spotted. A Goodwill fit and Topshop booties make for the perfect night on the town. Painting the town red? No no, we’re leaving it fierce and patterned. Lookout upper eastsiders.

255

257

Stop the tracks. Now let me state facts. I told you give me a minute and i’d be right back. Been the number one dive in this game for a minute.

258

THE Thri t Shop Jacket and Forever 21 sprinkled intermittently; Serena tested, Blair approved. XOXO

261

259

260

THE Thrift Shop Jacket and Forever 21 sprinkled intermittently; Serena tested, Blair approved. XOXO

253

265

263

264

267

265

268 266

SPOTTED IN THE CLUB

She is fierce. She is spotted. She is a gentlewoman.

Models: Christine Evans. Styling assistance: Nicole Guion and Brooke Pumo.

267

268

THE NEW NEW 269

A DIY twist to the classic white and denim fit. Grab your best vintage tee and cuffed jeans to pair with a personalized painted jacket. Self-expression at its best.

Photography by ALLISON REVELLE Styling by SAMANTHA LOWN & BROOKE PUMO

270

271

274 272

Timeless white button down?

Check. On the left, his piece is by Banana Republic, denim by Topshop, and sneakers by Puma.

273

276

275

Take a walk on the DIY side with a customized denim jacket. Her vintage tee is from Goodwill, denim by Topshop, jacket by Old Navy, and black boots from Topshop. Jacket customized by Samantha Lown.

272

277

278

282 280

281

THE NEW NEW

Recycling clothes is great and all, but even your worn out and “ruined” items just need a little TLC to bring them out of the trash pile and into your “favorite clothing” rotation. The DIY Denim trend will be THE talk of Fall/ Winter 20/21. Buying overpriced one of a kind pieces? Never heard of her.

Models: Chloe Magpayo. Styling assistance: Allegra St. Clair & Madeline Green.

284

285

Forever 21 trousers in go-to autumn colors. Burnt orange and a dark maroon seen here.

286

THE

BOND

287

A union like no other. A bond formed where words are not necessary and their differences become their strengths. She accepts who you are, where you have been, and allows you to grow. Actions always speak louder than words.

Photography by ALLISON REVELLE Styling by SAMANTHA LOWN & ALLEGRA ST. CLAIR

288

Ribbed sweaters forever trending from Forever 21.

289

290

291

292

293

294

295

Olivia, on the left, and Rachel, on the right, expressing their bond in curious ways.

296

297

298

299

302

303

304

305

THE BOND

Two women, inseparable from day one. They’ve hated each other, laughed together, cried together, been separately selfish, but always come back to love. It’s unknown where these two will be in the future, but no matter the distance, their hearts will be connected.

Models: Rachel Murray and Olivia Ruffin. Styling assistance: Brooke Pumo and Nicole Guion.

306

307

306 308

RÅŒNIN 309

The rĹ?nin wander as outcasts; lost samurai without their masters. This modern rĹ?nin wonders elegantly without purpose and lost to time, but not to trends.

These Japanese-inspired pieces in oversized and flowy silhouettes dance in the fall breeze.

Photography by DAVID DONG Garments by ARIANA ARDWAY

310

311

312

311

313

Maisy wears one-of-a-kind designs by Ariana Ardway as she wanders the vast historical grounds of Savannah’s Fort Pulaski.

314

313

315

319

316

317

318

321

322 324

RŌNIN

Our rōnin passes as gracefully as she came. She’s on her own, but doesn’t seem to mind.

Models: Maisy Brichetto. Styling assistance: Brooke Pumo & Samantha Lown.

325

324

& OTHER STORIES……………………………………@andotherstories Create your own fashion story with wardrobe treasures from our design ateliers in Paris, Los Angeles and Stockholm andotherstories.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

ACNE STUDIOS……………………………………………………@acnestudios Ready-to-wear, accessories, shoes and denim from Stockholm #AcneStudios acnestudios.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN………………………… @alexandermcqueen #alexandermcqueen #mcqueenSS19 #mcqueendetail #mcqueentailoring #seeninmcqueen alexandermcqueen.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

ALEX MATZKE……………………………………………………………@alexmatzke B. 1985 omaha - currently in omaha things made with my phone matzke.photo.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

ALDO………………………………………………………………………………@aldo_shoes Welcome to our Insta feed, featuring snaps by us & you, our #AldoCrew aldoshoes.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

ALLBIRDS…………………………………………………………………………@allbirds At Allbirds we make the world’s most comfortable shoes for life’s everyday adventures. allbirds.com/ ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

ALLEGRA ST. CLAIR…………………………………………@legsstclair Follow me if you wanna see pics of my dogs allegrastclair.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

ALLISON REVELLE………………………………… @allisonrevelle_ revelle.format.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

AMAZON……………………………………………………………………………………@amazon #amazon amazon.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

ANN TAYLOR…………………………………………………………………@anntaylor #ThisIsAnn anntaylor.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

STOCKISTS ANTHROPOLOGIE……………………………………………@anthropologie apparel. home. accessories. beauty. anthropologie.com/ ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

ARIANA ARDWAY…………………………………………@designer_ariana Fashion Designer - visual look at the process and final products arianarwady.com/ ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

ARTHUR ARBESSER………………………………………@arthurarbesser Making beautiful frocks arthurarbesser.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

ASOS………………………………………………………………………………………………@Asos Giving you the confidence to be whoever you want to be asos.com/ ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

BALLY…………………………………………………………………………………………@bally Swiss luxury brand. Exceptional quality and innovative design since 1851.

Bally.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

BANANA REPUBLIC…………………………………… @bananarepublic This is the Banana you love: #itsbanana This is the Banana he loves: @bananarepublicmens bananarepublic.gap.com/ ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

BED BATH & BEYOND……………………………@bedbathandbeyond www.bedbathandbeyond.com/ ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

BROOKE PUMO………………………………………………………@brookepumo88 brookenpumo.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

BURBERRY………………………………………………………………@burberry.com Discover #Kingdom, our SS19 runway collection burberry.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

CALVIN KLEIN………………………………………………………@calvinklein ESTABLISHED 1968 DESIGNED IN AMERICA CONSUMED AROUND THE WORLD CONCEIVED IN NYC 205 W 39TH ST. Calvinklein.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

CELINE……………………………………………………………………………………@celine celine.com

CHANEL ………………………………………………………………@chanelofficial Chanel.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

CHLOE…………………………………………………………………………………………@chloe A luxury Paris fashion Maison founded on the principles of freedom, lightness and femininity #chloeGIRLS Chloe.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

CHLOE MAGPAYO…………………………………………………@chloemagpayo mnl x sav chloemagpayo.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

CHRISTINE EVANS…………………………………@always.christine Breathe Easy, scad, Disney Alum christinemevans.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

CHRISTOPER KANE……………………………………@christopherkane Shop online and in store christopherkane.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

CLUB MONOCO……………………………………………………………@clubmonaco Established 1985. clubmonaco.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

COACH ……………………………………………………………………………………@coach Check out our new film #worldsmatter, in collab with Michael B. Jordan and Spike Lee on our IGTV coach.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

CRISTINA LONDONO…………………………………………………………@clondi wabi-sabi, Shameless otaku, Blink af …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

DAVID DONG………………………………………………………………………………@davfl SCAD 20’ Always looking for people to collaborate with! david-dong.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

DKNY………………………………………………………………………………………………@dkny dkny.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

DIOR………………………………………………………………………………………………@dior “Women, with their intuitive intinct, understood that I dreamed not only of making them more beautiful, but happier too.”

Dior.com

STOCKISTS AN INDEX OF EVERY COMPANY AND PERSON IN THIS ISSUE, ALONG WITH THEIR INSTAGRAM HANDLE AND BIO

325

DSTL……………………………………………………………………………………………@dstld premium denim & luxe essentials, without the retail markup dstld.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

DSQUARED2 ……………………………………………………………… @dsquared2 Born in Canada, Made in Italy. dsquared2.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

DSW……………………………………………………………………………………………………@dsw Tag #MyDSW + @dsw for a chance to be featured dsw.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

EMMA DEVEREAUX…………………………………………@emmadevereaux_ NY|SAV. Fashion Photographer. SCAD. SCAD Lax. www.emmadevereaux.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

ERDEM…………………………………………………………………………………………@erdem erdem.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

ERIKA CAVALLINI…………………@erikacavallini_official The official profile of the Italian brand #ErikaCavallini erikacavallini.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

EVERLANE…………………………………………………………………………@everlane Exceptional quality. Ethical factories. Radically transparent. everlane.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

FOREVER 21…………………………………………………………………@forever21 Keep in touch forever21.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

FRAME…………………………………………………………………………………………@frame frame-store.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

GABBY GARDNER………………………………………………@gabbykgardner Toronto || Savannah, GA ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

GABRIELLE FERROVECCHIO………………………@perspective3_ 21||Photographer CLT//SAV,Community member : @cfashionista|coffee consumer||band lover gabriellealexaphotography.org ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

GAP……………………………………………………………………………………………………@gap Optimistic American style. #MeetMeInTheGap gap.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

GIVENCHY………………………………………………………@givenchyofficial givenchy.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

GOODWILL………………………………………………………………………………………………… goodwill.org ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

GUCCI ………………………………………………………………………………………@gucci gucci.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

H&M………………………………………………………………………………………………………@hm Welcome to #HM! hm.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

HEATHER KNIGHT ………………………………@elementclaystudio Organic Modern Small Batch Ceramics.

Handmade heirloom quality art and accessories. Interior Design // Apartment Therapy // Elle Decor elementclaystudio.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

IKEA………………………………………………………………………………………@ikeausa Official Instagram for IKEA USA – design ideas & solutions to make life at home easier. ikea.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

JASON WU……………………………………………………………………………@jasonwu #jasonwufragrance pop up 85 MERCER jasonwustudio.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

JEFFREY CAMPBELL…………………………………@jeffreycampbell jeffreycampbellshoes.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

JOHN LOBB………………………………………………………………………@johnlobb Johnlobb.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

JIMMY CHOO…………………………………………………………………@jimmychoo The official Instagram for team Jimmy Choo Us.jimmychoo.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

JW ANDERSON…………………………………………………………@jw_anderson Shop online and at the JW Anderson Workshops jwanderson.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

KENZO…………………………………………………………………………………………@kenzo KENZO official Account kenzo.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

LANVIN…………………………………………………………………@lanvinofficial Watch the FW19 Show Live lanvin.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

LAUREN WRIGHT……………………………………………@laurenm_wright bham sometimes sav sometimes | scad photo + ceramics the goods — @_lofire ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

LEE & BIRCH…………………………………………………………@leeandbirch Clothing boutique with stores in Grand Rapids, Grand Haven, and Rockford MI. Brands include Gentle Fawn, AG Jeans, Hudson, Bella Dahl, & more! leeandbirch.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

LEIGH’S……………………………………………………………@Leighsfashions Leigh’s is a luxury women’s speciality store.

Elegant. Fabulous. Fresh. leighsfashions.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

LEVI’S………………………………………………………………………………………@levis levi.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

LOEWE…………………………………………………………………………………………@loewe loewe.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

LONGCHAMP……………………………………………………………………@longchamp Longchamp is a world leader in leathergoods that bring together craftsmanship, creativity & French elegance.

Longchamp.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

LOUIS VUITTON…………………………………………………@louisvuitton Louisvuitton.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

MADEWELL…………………………………………………………………………@madewell good days start with great jeans. madewell.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

MAISY BRICHETTO………………………………………@maisybirchetto Preservationist, Perfume enthusiast ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

MAJE……………………………………………………………………………@majeofficiel Us.maje.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

MARC JACOBS……………………………………………………………@marcjacobs Marcjacobs.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

MARGUERITE SECKMAN………………………@margueriteseckman forever experiencing FOMO | bits & baubles of my life………@fetesavannah………@fetechalet fetechalet.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

MARISSA FOLEY……………………………………@marissafoley.jpg marissafoley.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

MASSIMO DUTTI………………………………………………@massimodutti An urban, sophisticated and effortless collection of style. massimodutti.com

326

DSTL……………………………………………………………………………………………@dstld premium denim & luxe essentials, without the retail markup dstld.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

MATT SGAMBATI……………………………………………………………@sgambati SCAD 2019 matthewsgambati.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

MAX MARA……………………………………………………………………………@maxmara Epitome of Italian Quality and Craftsmanship us.maxmara.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

MADDIE GREEN…………………………………………………………@megreentoo Student model and a model student. SCAD. madeleinemgreen.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

MIU MIU…………………………………………………………………………………@miumiu Girl at heart.

Miumiu.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

MSGM………………………………………………………………………………………………@msgm Never Look Back, It’s All Ahead MSGM.it/en ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

NASTYGAL…………………………………………………………………………@nastygal Nasty Gals Do it Better nastygal.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

NICOLE GUION……………………………………………………@nicole_guion nicoleguion.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

NORDSTROM……………………………………………………………………@nordstrom Serving customers since 1901.

Instagramming since 2012. shop.nordstrom.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

OLIVIA RUFFI……………………………………………………@olivebarrett fashion blogger // rva // scad FASM 2020 ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

ONE STORY………………………………………………@laurenalyssagroup www.onestoryshop.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

OLD NAVY……………………………………………………………………………@oldnavy oldnavy.gap.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

PRADA…………………………………………………………………………………………@prada Thinking fashion since 1913.

Prada.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND…………………………@pringlescotland Iconic British knitwear since 1815.

Pringlescotland.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

PROENZA SCHOULER…………………………………@proenzaschouler www.proenzaschouler.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

PUMA………………………………………………………………………………………………@puma #ForeverFaster. Changing the game since 1948. us.puma.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

RACHEL MURRAY…………………………………………………………@rach_murr Half Moon Outfitters ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

REPOSSI………………………………………………………………………………@repossi Since 1920. 6, Place Vendome Paris Repossi.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

SACAI………………………………………………………………………@sacaiofficial “Bonjour sacai” pop-up store in Paris and online store are open 12 Feb - 9 Mar sacai.jp ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

SAINT LAURENT…………………………………………………………………………@ysl The official Saint Laurent Instagram account.

Ysl.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO…………………………………………@ferragamo Since 1927.

“There is no limit to beauty, no saturation point in design, no end to the material” Salvatore Ferragamo Ferragamo.site ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

Samantha Lown……………………………………………@_samanthalown_ “I love my life. It’s a mix of heinous decisions and amazing dreams.” samanthalown.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

SMYTHSON…………………………………………………………………………@smythson #smythson www.smythson.com

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO…………………………………………@ferragamo Since 1927.

“There is no limit to beauty, no saturation point in design, no end to the material” Salvatore Ferragamo Ferragamo.site ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

SAMANTHA LOWN…………………………………………@_samanthalown_ “I love my life. It’s a mix of heinous decisions and amazing dreams.” samanthalown.com ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

SMYTHSON…………………………………………………………………………@smythson #smythson smythson.com ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

SPORTMAX…………………………………………………………………………@sportmax Standing out for its strong, innovative, directional, fresh and experimental style.

Sportmax.com ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

STELLA MCCARTNEY…………………………………@stellamccartney Welcome to #stellasWorld! stellamccartney.com ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

STEVE MADDEN………………………………………………………@stevemadden #GenSteve stevemadden.com ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

STUART WEITZMAN………………………………………@stuartweitzman Discover #SWWomen around the globe #inoutshoes and get inspired. #StuartWeitzman stuartweitzman.com ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

TALBOTS……………………………………………………………@talbotsofficial Modern classic style with our signature polished twist, in sizes for every body. talbots.com/ ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

TARGET……………………………………………………………………………………@target Make your day a little more hooray when you tag @Target in your pics. target.com …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

STOCKISTS AN INDEX OF EVERY COMPANY AND PERSON IN THIS ISSUE, ALONG WITH THEIR INSTAGRAM HANDLE AND BIO CONTINUED

327

TESS ST. JOHN…………………………………………………………@tesstjohn ostrich tamer • leprechaun hunter • remote control cleaner • eyelash detangler • unibrow groomer • female ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

THEORY………………………………………………………………………………@theory__ Iconic style, made effortless. Contemporary silhouettes. Modern details. The foundation of your wardrobe. theory.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

TIFFANY & CO.…………………………………………………@tiffanyandco TIFFANY & CO.-- founded in New York City in 1837 -- is synonymous with superlative diamonds, innovative jewelry design and expert craftsmanship tiffany.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

TJ MAXX…………………………………………………………………………………@tjmaxx At T.J.Maxx we help women maximize their lives... every day. Share with us your favorite finds with #MaxxLife. tjmaxx.tjx.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

TOPSHOP………………………………………………………………………………@topshop us.topshop.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

ULLA JOHNSON………………………………………………………@ullajohnson ullajohnson.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

URBAN OUTFITTERS……………………………………@urbanoutfitters urbanoutfitters.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

VANS………………………………………………………………………………………………@vans Official Vans USA Instagram vans.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

VALENTINA SHAN………………………………………………@ssssswx_shan Too glam to give a damn. ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

VALENTINO……………………………………..@maisonvalentino Creative Director @pppiccioli Founded in 1960 by Valentino Garavani and Giancarlo Giammetti. valentino.com ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

WILLIAM SONOMA…………………………………@williamsonomahome williams-sonoma.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

WOOLRICH…………………………………………………………………………@woolrich American Soul since 1830. woolrich.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

ZARA………………………………………………………………………………………………@zara ZARA Official Instagram account zara.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

ZIHAN YANG……………………………………………@zihanyang.jewelry Contemporary Jeweler • SCAD • NWPU zihanyangstudio.com ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

tex

328

Last page

“Embracing people from other places is important and with all of the hate currently happening in the world, it’s important to be supportive of anyone and everyone.”

MARGUERITE SECKMAN

Thanks for reading. We do this because of you. This is for all the woman who have a voice, no matter how they choose to use it. rendez-vous à la prochaine saison (see you next season.)

329