Scentedletterissue2 by Alma Rae

scented The

Issue 2

www.perfumesociety.org

letter

RICHARD E. GRANT’S SCENT MEMORIES AWARDWINNING FRAGRANCES

YOUR PERFECT WEDDING PERFUME

Roses, roses everywhere

editor’s letter

Thank you so much for all your wonderful comments about the first issue of The Scented Letter. We’re overwhelmed by how much you love this magazine, and are thrilled to bring you this second petal-powered issue. You’ll notice roses blooming all over this edition. These fragile flowers are at the very heart of countless perfumes – including a whole new harvest of rose-focused scents you can read about in our Latest Launches, on p. 38. We’re lucky enough to have been invited by Chanel to visit the rose fields in Grasse, in the south of France – so let us take you behind the scenes to share how the scent of these pink petals is swiftly captured, after picking, to evoke that rose magic. We’ve so many other fantastic ‘reads’ for you to enjoy. Discover the season’s bestscented suncare, on p. 20, and advice on how to choose the perfect wedding scent on p. 32. Don’t tell a soul, meanwhile, but we’ve actually fallen a little bit more in love with Richard E. Grant, who shares his fragrant ‘Memories, Dreams, Reflections’ with us this edition, on p. 30. Did you know it’s been awards season, for perfumes? So within these pages we’re sharing details of all the winners in the recent Fragrance Foundation Awards, which are the perfume industry’s ‘Oscars’ – as well as some of those voted on by the readers of the Basenotes website. We recommend sniffing out the award-winners for yourself - and deciding whether you agree with those who cast their votes. We’ve another great way to discover your next scent love. We’re proud to have launched our Spring Summer Scentsations ‘Fragrance Edit’ Discovery Box, which you can read all about on p. 28. And can we just add: we’ve truly loved meeting you at our get-togethers. Do turn to p.37 to discover future workshops and events – in particular, our How to Improve Your Sense of Smell sessions, with upcoming dates in London and Manchester. And if you really want to explore perfumery, we can’t recommend too highly Karen Gilbert’s oneday workshop on 26th July; you’ll actually leave with a perfume you’ve created yourself.

Cover image: © Vidady - Fotolia.com

Hope to see you soon. The Scented Letter will be back in September – but till then, have a wonderful summer. And may your roses go on blossoming...

www.perfumesociety.org

The

scented Letter

contributors

Josephine Fairley

an aromatic life

MEMORIES, DREAMS, REFLECTIONS Richard E. Grant, actor, charmer – and now ‘perfumer’ – is well-known to us, having first set out screens ablaze in Withnail & I. This autumn (oh, the excitement) he’ll be appearing in Downtown Abbey as art historian Simon Bricker – but perhaps his highlight of 2014 has been launching that debut fragrance, JACK. And for this edition we put Richard on the

When did you realise that scent was really important to you? When I was nine years old, I picked all the gardenia and rose petals in our garden, then stuffed them into jams jars of boiled sugar water, sealed them up and buried them in

The scent that I love on a woman is… … whatever my wife is wearing. She alternates her way through a variety of scents according to her mood, the occasion or season, so she has a variety of scents that I love, because no matter she wears, I love her. I’d love to have smelled… … Cleopatra’s scent, the fabled Hanging Gardens of Babylon, the 2,000 gardenias at Frank Sinatra’s funeral, and the breath of my newly-born daughter captured in a bottle.

What was the first fragrance you bought for yourself? Eau Sauvage by Christian Dior when I was 16 years old. Its citrussy notes and zingy quality seemed the height of sophistication and I wore it till I was 25 years old, living in Africa. Have you had different fragrances for different phases of your life…? While auditioning for acting roles in 1982, having emigrated to London, I worked as a waiter at Tutton’s Brasserie in Covent Garden which is just round the corner from Penhaligon’s. After an evening of very generous tips from a large group of Opera buffs, I bought Penhaligon’s Blenheim Bouquet and wore it faithfully for almost three decades. Fell in love wearing that scent and bought all the Blenheimscented products that went with it. Until four years ago when I had an absolute coup de foudre (‘love at first sight’) experience while dancing with a total stranger at a party in Tuscany; I found myself completely smitten with the scent she was wearing. When I said that I felt my marriage vows were being seriously challenged, she generously gave me a tiny tube of Kai perfume oil, made in Malibu. It is the closest to capturing that all elusive gardenia in an oil that I had ever come across. My marriage remained intact, I forsook Penhaligon’s for this magical oil. But my loyalty was short lived as it’s now been replaced by JACK, which I’ve created with the guidance and expertise of ‘nose’ Alienor Massenet who conjured the scent from the list of ingredients I gave her. The smell that always makes me feel happy is… … gardenias - especially on a sub tropical evening when their perfume is at it’s most powerful. Reminds me simultaneously of being a boy as well as a young hormonally charged-up man determined to conquer the fairer sex.

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What is your favourite book about perfume…? Due to smelling everything around me wherever possible, I’ve been given more copies of Patrick Suskind’s novel Perfume than any other book and read it more than once. Even though it’s a murder story, the obsession with scent and trying to create the perfect perfume is something I’ve identified with. By way of contrast, almost every Charles Dickens book I’ve ever read is rich with baroque descriptions of the smells of Victorian London.

What’s the very first thing you remember smelling? I grew up in Swaziland in South East Africa and my mother was an avid gardener and grew sweet peas, the scent of which instantly catapults me back to my very early childhood. It was then I discovered that the shortest synaptic leap in the brain occurs between our sense of smell and memory - which is why scent is such an emotional memory-charged sense. I suppose I have been led by my nose all my life. Ever since I can remember I have ‘missiled’ my nose at everything in sight from food to flowers, flesh, fabric, fruit, necks, books, cars and everything else in between. To the point where my wife feels obliged to ‘apologise’ for her husband’s compulsive habit of smelling everything. I’m surprised everyone doesn’t. It’s one of the greatest pleasure in life.

The smell that always makes me feel a bit sad is… … the smell of burning leaves in early autumn, reminding us that another summer is forever over, and whilst delicious, smoky and earthy, it presages the cold to come.

SUBHEAD HERE It wouldn’t be fair to ask Richard E. Grant which five fragrances take centre stage on his dressing table, since they’ve all been swept aside for his own first fragrance creation, Jack. Inspired by a conversation on holiday with Anya Hindmarch in the Caribbean (are you getting a glimpse of Richard’s life, yet?), they took to discussing his obsession with smelling everything in sight. Two years later, his signature perfume has been unveiled at Liberty, created in partnership with perfumer Alienor Massenet. (Read much more about Alienor on our website.). A ‘shareable’ creation blending together his favourite aromas – including mandarin, clove, gardenia, pepper, nutmeg, frankincense, oudh, white musk, tobacco absolute and marijuana (!), here’s what some of the reviewers have said about Jack For Her & For Him. ‘It’s earthy, citrussy, hypnotic and rather sexy.’ Kate Shapland, Telegraph Magazine ‘One of the swankiest, sexiest, most moreish fragrances we’ve smelt in a long while.’ Sunday Times STYLE ‘Neither overly manly or feminine, the scent is surprisingly full-bodied yet fresh, with an addictive quality.’ Shortlist ‘It’s a gender blender. I tested it yesterday on three males and me. We all really took to its initial citrus floral tang. There’s a spicypeppery dry-down, with a warm, sweettropical richness… A glorious first fragrance from Mr. Grant.’ The Women’s Room blog Jack eau de parfum, £95 for 100 ml, liberty.co.uk

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Alice Crocker

Richard E. Grant ‘I’ve been led by my nose all my life,’ admits Richard E. Grant, who shares his favourite and formative smells with us in Memories, Dreams, Reflections. Born in Swaziland, he began as a theatre actor. But Richard shot to fame in the film Withnail & I in 1987, which was followed by Gosford Park, Henry & June, LA Story and too many others to mention. Recently, we’ve seen him in the cult series Girls – but what’s got Richard excited right now is the launch of his very first fragrance, Jack For Her & For Him. (Yes, he gave actress Lena Dunham and her Girls cast-mates a bottle. And yes, they loved it…)

Alice joined The Perfume Society as Project Manager in September 2013. Prior to this she worked in a variety of creative sectors, with a particular focus on luxury brands, including working within the fragrance divisions at LVMH and L’Oréal. ‘My first scent memories are all from the fruit farm I grew up on; old Barbour jackets, lambs milk powder, horse-hoof oil, sugar beet, and the earthy, vine-like smell of freshly harvested blackcurrants. There are odd ones too… I love the smell of creosote. The real first perfume I wore would probably be CK One (stolen from my sister)!’

Jo has been a journalist and author for longer than she cares to remember, and at the age of 23 was Britain’s youngestever magazine editor, editing first Look Now and then Honey magazines. She has covered a vast spectrum of subjects – from Romanian orphans to sumo wrestling, via elephant polo (and for several years had a column on the women’s page of The Times). She’s also a long-standing Contributing Editor to the Mail on Sunday’s YOU Magazine, and co-author of The Beauty Bible series of books. Her true writing passion, though, has long been fragrance, and Jo has won two Jasmine Awards. She also co-founded Green & Black’s Chocolate with husband Craig Sams. josephinefairley.com

Nick Gilbert Author of this edition’s ‘It Takes Me Right Back’, Nick tells us that he has been either smelling, selling, describing, writing about, thinking about, marketing, or evaluating perfume every day for the last 13 years, since he started working on a Boots perfume counter as a teen. His first scent was CK Be, which he begged his mum for after seeing it described on The Big Breakfast at the age of 10. His interests include gin, singing Carpenters songs, flamingos, and beards. Follow his blog at nickrgilbert.com

Persolaise ‘Persolaise’ is the nom de plume – or maybe we should say ‘nom de parfum’ – of Dariush Alavi, a perfume writer and blogger who is also author of Snob: Le Parfum (published by Hardie Grant Books). His highlyinformed blog is one of The Perfume Society’s regular go-to sites, where he reviews new fragrances and classics - and his London Perfume Shopping Guide won a Jasmine Award. Persolaise also contributes regularly to Esprit Magazine and ParfumPlus. Follow Persolase at: persolaise. blogspot.co.uk

editorial TEAM Editor: Josephine Fairley jo@perfumesociety.org Designer: Jenny Semple enquiries@jennysempledesign.co.uk PROJECT MANAGER: Alice Crocker alice@perfumesociety.org fragrances Editor: Alice Jones alice.jones@perfumesociety.org Advertising Manager: Lorna McKay lorna@perfumesociety.org EA to the Editor: Amy Eason amy@josephinefairley.com

Contact us: info@perfumesociety.org Suite 147 77 Beak Street, London W1F 9DB. Tel: 01424-439580 The Scented Letter is a free online/ downloadable magazine for subscribers to The Perfume Society; visit www.perfumesociety.org for more information.

The Scented Letter is produced for The Perfume Society by Perfume Discovery Ltd. All information and prices are correct at the time of going to press and may no longer be so on the date of publication. © 2014 The Perfume Society All text, graphics and illustrations in The Scented Letter are protected by UK and International Copyright Laws, and may not be copied, reprinted, published, translated, hosted or otherwise distributed by any means without explicit permission. 4 The scented Letter

contents notes from the blogosphere

ladies

OF THE LAND A rose is a rose is a rose… Or is it? Not when it comes to rose fragrances. So from the many creations which have rose at their heart, we asked award-winning blogger to pluck a bunch of his favourites.

Now, as I sit in my woebegone garden typing these words, I am faced with a thriving plant bearing about a dozen pink blooms. Their delicacy is nothing short of thrilling: they resemble rice paper folded by some divine origami into layers and layers of intricate geometry. In short, they are a treasure to behold, and they almost make me want to reconsider my non-horticultural ways. But there’s more to them than meets the eye. You see, my roses do something that not many roses seem to do these days: they actually smell of roses.

When I get down on my knees and bring my nose closer to them, I am enveloped by what may well be one of the most perfect smells nature has ever devised. Honeyed, peppery, powdery, fruity and syrupy, it contains so many nuances, it isn’t difficult to understand why little children are moved to devise ingenious ways of capturing it and why grown perfumers spend years in labs trying to bottle it. The complexity of the plant’s smell is perhaps its most useful attribute, as it offers endless options when it comes to putting together a rose fragrance. One perfumer may choose to emphasise the spicy facets, whilst another opts for bringing out the fruity notes and a third decides to focus on the milky base. This is precisely why a list of some of my most beloved rose perfumes almost reads like a cast of characters from a Victorian novel. Or perhaps it would be more accurate to compare it to one of those Pre-Raphaelite depictions of vividlyhued beauties: intense, heightened archetypes, wearing their hearts on their sleeves with a complete lack of self-consciousness.

Standing next to this firebrand is the alluring hypnotist: Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle Portrait Of A Lady (2010), composed by Dominique Ropion. Although its stature is equally monolithic, its heart is more contemplative, using the ecclesiastical power of frankincense to turn the Turkish rose at its heart into an impassioned prayer of scent. It pulls all passers-by towards its woody, musky base, seducing them into submission with the impossibly proportioned flower at its centre. © Maksim Shebeko - Fotolia.com

There is no way that my fingers could be described as ‘green’. I barely know one end of a spade from another, I need close supervision when operating a lawnmower and I have a blind spot the size of Kew Gardens where weeds are concerned. So a few months ago, when someone kindly gave me a rose bush as a gift, my first thought was that it would be dead in a matter of weeks. However, pessimism aside, I dug a hole, manoeuvred the plant into it and let the great British weather do the rest.

A haunted, reflective demeanour is presented by Une Rose Chyprée (2009) from the Swiss perfumer, Andy Tauer. Spectres

of the past flit in and out of focus in this gorgeous piece of work, like the remains of the much-missed fragrances of yesteryear. Could that be an old Balmain in the cinnamon opening…? Is the crimson gem at the heart a cousin of a forgotten Patou…? And has the balmy vanilla base arrived straight from a classic Guerlain…? Questions to ponder as a veritable Charleston starts warming up in the background. The mention of Jean Patou brings me to the most expansive member of my rollcall of rosy personalities: the everpopular Joy, created in 1930 by Henri Alméras. True, it isn’t solely a rose scent: jasmine, ylang ylang and tuberose also feature in its make-up. But I’d suggest that they remain secondary to the star material, complementing it rather than competing with it. What’s most remarkable about Joy - and make sure you try the extrait concentration to see this effect in all its splendour - is that it really illustrates how a perfume can be discerned as a ‘texture’. As the rose and the other florals begin to develop, they uncurl like an intricate Persian rug extending far into the distance. The reds, pinks and whites of the silk threads occupy all the space around them, until all that anyone can feel is a blanket of softness. No rose drama would be complete without an opulent representative of the East, and Amouage Lyric Woman (2008) fits the bill in suitably alluring fashion. Here, the rose has been set within a nectarous fruit note. Plums, cherries and peaches ooze their juices onto the petals, which then

descend onto a surface of dark, polished woods. A powdery facet emerges too, preventing the whole from becoming too opaque, but the emphasis remains on mystery, danger and darkness. Every story needs a rogue factor - an injection of unpredictability - and mine arrives in the form of Antoine Lie and Antoine Maisondieu’s Eau De Protection (2009) from the avant-garde French brand État Libre D’Orange. Although the rose at the heart of this distinctive fragrance is completely recognisable as a rose, it’s also edgy, as though prepared to reveal its thorns at the slightest provocation. Acting very much like the defensive shield alluded to in its name, it is inscrutable, assertive and it surrounds its wearer with a veil of glinting metal. Striking stuff. And finally, the ingénue. Some rose fragrances don’t try to present the flower in novel or unusual ways: they set themselves the none-too-simple task of reflecting the scent of the plant as faithfully and accurately as possible. Of these, perhaps one of the most successful is Serge Lutens Sa Majesté La Rose (2000) by Christopher Sheldrake. It is creamy, velvety, colourful, candied and gentle in all the right places. It doesn’t draw unnecessary attention to itself. And, just like those breathtaking blooms in my garden, it is filled with the irrepressible power of hopefulness. Smell it... and feel a new tomorrow cradle you in a comforting embrace.

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flower power

notes from the blogosphere

what the nose knows

ROSES, ROSES, ROSES

LADIES OF THE LAND

SABINE de TSCHARNER

Follow the fragrant and fascinating journey of one of perfume’s most precious ingredients from field to flacon

The Jasmine Award-winning blogger and author Persolaise hand-picks his own rose-powered favourite perfumes

How do you go from not being able to smell to being a perfumer? Read Sabine’s story

every one a winner

an aromatic life

IT’S AWARDS SEASON This year’s award-winners from The Fragrance Foundation and Basenotes Awards – do you agree with the judges?

MEMORIES, DREAMS, REFLECTIONS

A MATCH MADE IN HEAVEN

wedding scents

Richard E. Grant – actor-turnedperfume-creator – talks about the scents and smells that take him back in time

Our guide to choosing the perfect perfume for the biggest day of your life (and ideas for scenting a wedding)

nosing around

THE SCENT OF SUMMER SUNCARE

WHAT’S IN THE BOX?

events

LATEST LAUNCHES

it takes me right back

The

scented Letter

on the scent of news

nosing around Here’s what we’re finding exciting in the world of scent, right now: the people, the places (and the perfumed ‘extras’ that enhance our pleasure in life…)

AND NOW, THE SCENTED INVITE

The perfume of peace Would you buy a fragrance for a good cause? Only if it smelled good, is probably the answer. But happily, there are no compromises needed with 7Virtues fragrances. The brand was founded by Canadian Barb Stegemann (pictured), using essential oils from some of the world’s most troubled spots. The fragrances are now available in the UK, including Vetiver of Haiti, Afganistan Orange Blossom, Noble Rose of Afghanistan – and a fragrance which seeks to promote Middle East Peace (that’s its name), blending Israeli grapefruit oil with Iranian lime and basil oils. Each of the scents can be enjoyed as an eau de parfum, £54 for 50 ml, exclusively at selfridges.com. (But do check out the 7Virtues website.) As fragrances go, we can’t think of anything more uplifting. 7vritues.com

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On p.33 you can read our suggestions for fragrancing a wedding (and fragrancing yourself, for the Big Day). Now, you can fragrance the invitation to your event, so that sensory journey begins even before you get the RSVP. ‘Experiential stationery design house’, Cutture London, just launched scented invitations, in collaboration with Chapter 7 Scents. The six designs of invitations include The Paper Rose, most popular for weddings: a contemporary geometric pattern with a 3-D rose, tucked inside a box with the sweet smell of roses just waiting to be liberated. Then there’s the ‘Your Story’ wedding invite, telling personal stories through illustration and lasercutting – with a scented element that can be customised. Christmas Cracker invites smell of gingerbread – and The Kids Party fills the air with the scent of candyfloss and sweeties. As you’d probably expect, none of this comes cheap: from £25 per invite. But after this innovation, mere calligraphy on vellum is surely going to be a disappointment! cutture.com/020-7751 8395

bloom in

DARLING BUDS OF MAI Provence’s May roses, as you’ll discover on p.10, are the most prized in the world, for the richness of their scent. But although rose is a perennially popular fragrance for skincare, Chantecaille have opted to incorporate this precious Grasse-sourced oil for their lavish and luxe new Rose de Mai cream. Definitely not your everyday moisturiser, it’s probably the most blissfully-scented cream we’ve ever had the pleasure of using. (Though we are ekeing out every last dab, at £175 for 50ml.) uk.spacenk.com

We’ve surely all had the experience of feeling prettier after a spritz of scent. But new research suggests a pleasant perfume can actually make a face seem more attractive. For a study from the Monell Chemical Senses Center in Philadelphia, which was published in the science journal PLOS ONE, scientists asked young adults – two thirds women – to rate the attractiveness of eight female faces, in a photograph. While they were looking at and evaluating the images, five odours were released – from a fishy odour through to fragrant rose oil (which features so heavily in this edition). The interviewees were asked to rate the attractiveness of the face and the pleasantness of the odour. The result? A pleasant odour directly influenced the perception of facial attractiveness, which ‘may indicate a common site of neural processing in the brain.’ Admittedly, there were only 18 people taking part in the study – but if you’ve ever felt a little lovelier when applying your favourite perfume, this could explain why...

+ Lilies + Roses + Jasmine + Lavender + Phlox + Stephanotis + Tuberose The

A rosy vision?

Freesias

scented Letter

on the scent of news

eaux to go... It’s never a good idea to light a scented candle in a hotel room – but what to do about that stale, musty, has-someone’s-dogbeen-sleeping-in-here whiff? Aromatherapist Fiona Hedigan has the solution: the most stylish plug-in aromatherapy oil diffuser we’ve yet seen, which can even be powered via your laptop, through a USB plug. (There’s also one for the mains included in the kit.) Petalwell’s mood-shifting essential oil blends include Relaxwell, Breathewell, Travelwell, Lovewell and Sleepwell. This last one really seems to help with insomnia – and there’s no question: diffusing a pleasant scent into a strange hotel room works wonders to help you feel right at home. petalwell.com

“

Try spraying your fragrance inside your handbag. I always loved the inside of my mother’s handbag Azzi Glasser

We’re told that in 2013, our friend and ‘nose’ Francis Kurkdjian circumnavigated the globe three times, ‘hopping from continent to continent’. Not great for the body clock. (Though it doesn’t seem to have dimmed his creativity.) But as someone who likes to travel light, it got Francis thinking about a better way to travel with his fragrances – and the very chic Globe Trotter Travel Spray Case is the result (created in collaboration with Globe Trotter luggage). Trios of refills are available in a wide range of Francis’s bestselling scents, including Aqua Vitae, Aqua Universalis, Amyris, and his OUD collection; just slip them inside the Globe Trotter – which comes in zinc or gold – and prepare to travel fragrantly. £95 for Globe Trotter Zinc/£95 for Globe Trotter Gold; Refills from £60 to £130 for a box of three lessenteurs.com

Swedish perfume house Byredo are – quite literally – on a roll. Perfect for travelling (and securityfriendly), seven of their sublime scents are now available individually as 7.5 ml roll-on oils, including bestsellers like Gypsy Water, La Tulipe and Rose Noir. Find them at Liberty, £47 for 7.5 ml. (And the oil formulation ensures they’ll last on the skin longer, too.) liberty.co.uk

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the art of scent Art and fragrance are having a love affair. Just cast your gaze upon Miller Harris’ latest creations to see what we mean: Lyn Harris’s perfume house has teamed up with Parisian artist Cyril Destrade to create ‘Symphony of Colours’: a beautiful interpretation of the ‘rhythm of fruit and flowers’ which burst forth from zesty, summery signature scents Citron Citron, Le Petit Grain and Tangerine Vert. The floral etchings on each box become part of the olfactory experience, drawing you in closer to the colours and feelings each scent evokes. And who says you shouldn’t judge a book by its cover? Fragrance packaging has always set out to conjure up what’s in the bottle, even before we’ve opened the box - but Christina Radziwill’s illustration for Sisley Eau Tropicale certainly whisks us straight to the heart of the jungle. In the case of Acqua di Parma, they’ve been transporting perfume-lovers to the Mediterranean shores by enlisting the skilful hands of young artists to paint beautiful bespoke bottle caps for the Blu Mediterraneo collection, designs for which are based on Majolican tin-glazed pottery. While too-beautiful-to-throwaway packaging’s a true weakness for many perfume-lovers, fragrances which set out to distil a piece of artwork in scented form take the art and fragrance link to a whole new level. Each of Olfactive Studio’s five fragrances started life as a photograph, which was fragrantly

interpreted by a perfumer – and it really works: take a long sniff of the scent, and you’re instantly drawn into the picture - like stepping through the looking glass into the tale each perfume sets out to conjure up. Meanwhile, we know for a fact that Ulrich Lang’s signature fragrance line is collected for its fab photographic boxes (below) – as well as for the ‘juices’ inside. Long may this love affair blossom. But what we would say is: don’t simply prop these fragrances up on your mantelpiece, like twodimensional works of art. Open them, wear them, breathe them – and allow them to come alive on your skin. Because when it comes to art-inspired fragrances, the real pleasure is still in thinking outside the box. Alice Jones Clockwise from top: Miller Harris at millerharris.com Olfactive Studio at bloomperfume.co.uk Sisley Eau Tropicale at harrods.com Acqua di Parma at johnlewis.com Aperture at liberty.co.uk

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flower power

roses roses

everywhere Josephine Fairley takes a trip to the fields of Grasse, where – for just a few weeks a year – the scent of millions of roses is captured, for our olfactory pleasure…

A fragrance without roses is as unthinkable as a love affair without kisses. Small wonder. For not only are roses the most romantic of flowers to look at; they’re the secret weapon of seduction in your perfume bottle.

Photographs © Chanel

Sometimes, you can’t even tell they’re there, standing shyly under goodenough-to-eat notes like raspberry, peach, passionfruit, or jostling for flacon-space with other flowers. But hovering chameleon-like in almost every fragrance you’ll ever unstopper, you will nevertheless discover this most precious of flowers. The rose is as essential to the perfumer’s art as his own refined nostrils. As Jean Kerleo, the legendary perfumer who founded Paris’s Osmothèque Museum, once told me: ‘Rose gives a fragrance its warmth. Even when the final result isn’t rosy at all, you’ll find rose there. Because nothing else has that richness...’ And little, he might have added, costs as much. More than a takes-your-breathaway £20,000 per kilo for rose oil, in fact.

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flower power

Today’s savvy perfumers are far from the first to recognise the sheer sensual power of this ‘Queen of Flowers’, though. In Classic myth, the rose was linked with both the Greek goddess Aphrodite and her Roman counterpart, Venus. When Cleopatra welcomed Mark Antony to her boudoir, her bed was strewn with these aphrodisiac blooms, with the floor allegedly hidden under a foot and a half of freshpicked petals. Who could resist rolling around in that? Certainly no hot-blooded Roman, homesick for a city where rosewater bubbled through the fountains, awnings soaked in rose oil shielded VIPs in public amphitheatres from the baking sun, pillows and mattresses were stuffed with rosepetals (the better to propel the weary towards dreamland) - and where, long before the age of the designer logo, rose garlands were the ultimate Roman must-have status symbol accessory.

the gardens. And according to the story, she herself skimmed off the oil with her handkerchief while being rowed across the canal.

Chanel is the only fragrance name to have its own, sun-baked rose fields, ablaze with pink for such a short time

Photographs © Chanel and Josephine Fairley

The same flowers turned up in delicately-scented Roman puddings, love potions and medicines. At one bacchanalia, the Emperor Nero, clearly no tight-wad, had silver pipes installed so guests could be spritzed with rosewater between courses. For another feast, he splashed out on a shimmering Niagara of rosepetals – unfortunately, we’re told, smothering one guest to death. (But, oh, what a way to go…)

The fragrant liquid which refreshed Roman guests and was flung up in fountains all around town, however, was rosewater – the water in which roses have been steeped. In reality, rosewater is the poor relation of rose oil, so essential a component of the perfumes which today send our senses into a delicious spin. The discovery of this oh-soimportant rose oil, a.k.a. ‘otto’ (or ‘attar’, from the Persian for essence) is said to have been sheer kismet, discovered in the Shalimar gardens. (After which A Rather Famous Perfume is named.) So legend has it, an extravagant party took place in around 1612, given by Princess Nour-Djihan in honour of her husband, Moghul emperor Jahangir. We’re told the princess noticed a glistening froth floating on the canals of cooling, fragrant rosewater which flowed through

Leaving aside the fact that it’s w-a-y too time-consuming for (rose) oil barons to scoop up their precious bounty with hankies, or – as they later did in Ghazipour, in Lahore, to skim it with the blade of a sword lily – the collection of rose oil has nevertheless retained much of its romance. Picture a field in Provence, in the cool before dawn: a living chintz filled with the hypnotic headiness of thousands of dew-drenched flowers which bloom for just three weeks or so each year – pretty much the month of May, giving rise to the name ‘rose de Mai’. (Or to give its botanical name, Rosa centifolia: the hundred-petalled rose).

It’s here, just outside Grasse, that a handful of rose fields remain – on some of the most expensive real estate in France, which tells you everything about the value of the crop harvested here; property developers must eye these acres lustily - yet they’re home to an exquisite flower, instead. Chanel has access to its own, sun-baked rose fields, ablaze with pink for such a short time. This Grasse oil, explains Chanel perfumer Jacques Polge, is essential to the ‘extrait’ or ‘parfum’ version of Chanel No. 5 (and it’s reserved for No. 5’s most expensive incarnation alone). ‘It’s unthinkable that you could have No. 5 without rose,’ he insists, clearly still in thrall to its power to add softness and structure to the legendary ‘abstract’ floral, with its famous overdose of aldehydes. To produce just one precious ounce of rose absolute, though, takes 60,000 roses. And correct pruning’s essential: do it wrong, and the harvest can plummet by 20%. It is the task of the rose-pickers to pluck every just-boomed pink rose before 10 a.m. at the latest, when the sun evaporates their musky magic. (On a cloudy day, there may be too few blooms to pick, and the workers pack up and go home.) You might be surprised just how small the fields are: just 70,000 square metres, host to 50,000 Rosa centifolia bushes. Chanel entered into an exclusive partnership with

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flower power

the Mul family, who’ve cultivated the rose fields – originally planted by monks – for six generations. It’s part of Chanel’s mission to preserve the artisan traditions so central to their business - rather as they scooped up the embroidery firm of Lesage (responsible for exquisite haute couture embellishments), and Guillet (established 1896), which produces the pure white Chanel faux camellias - and the blooming mass of tulle and silk roses threaded through a Chanel bride’s cascading veil.

It is the task of the rose-pickers to pluck every justboomed pink rose before 10 a.m. at the latest, when the sun evaporates their musky magic

It’s the shortest of walks from the rows of bushes to the weighing room, meanwhile, where each picker’s harvest is put on the scale. It takes 500 roses to produce a kilo of flowers. (Which is an absolute breeze compared to the job of picking jasmine flowers: a kilo of jasmine requires the nimble-fingered plucking of 3,000 flowers. But that’s another story, which we’ll share with you in a future edition of The Scented Letter.) Each picker’s harvest is then logged in a giant ledger, by hand.

A picker can collect up to six kilos per hour; once weighed, they’re lightly packed - almost akin to fluffy pink clouds – into sacks, so as not to crush the petals, then driven just a couple of hundred metres or so to the factory. Up the conveyor belt the hessian sacks go, to be tipped into giant metal extraction vats. And then, the slightly unsexy bit: with the lid closed, they’re drenched in a solvent (hexane), which teases every molecule of rosiness from the wilted petals. These browned and spent flowers, once they’ve given up their scent, are composted – and make their way back to the fields as fertiliser. The ‘science bit’ doesn’t end there. The extract is vacuumdistilled and the hexane removed, to produce a ‘concrète’ (say it ‘kon-kret’), with the colour and texture of rich, golden honey. And then…? Yet more work, to produce a material that the ‘nose’ can work with: the concrète is processed again, with ethanol (alcohol), to separate the

plant waxes from the liquid. Next comes chilling, with the solid parts of the rose mixture skimmed off. And there’s one last step: filtration, separating the alcohol to produce rose absolute. Is it any wonder, with a process so complicated and delicate, that the end product is one of the priciest ingredients in a perfumer’s palette…?

And it’s only now – at the ‘absolue’ stage – that the mixture truly smells like roses again: intense, complex, bewitching, powerful. There’s the sense of sweetness of burying your face in armfuls of hundred-petalled roses, for sure - but much more than that. Close your eyes, and there’s a hint of the sun-baked field, and the breeze gently billowing from the nearby Mediterranean – and the awareness, too, that you’re breathing a little piece of history: a process and an art that would be dying, if it weren’t for Chanel (and a handful of the other haute parfum brands who still source their roses from Grasse). There is another type of rose grown for perfumery – Rosa damascena – which is cultivated in much greater quantities, in Turkey, Iran, China and Bulgaria. (200,000 people are said to be involved in Bulgaria’s annual rose harvest.) Grasse isn’t the only place that rose de Mai is produced, either – but according to Jacques Polge, the quality of the Grasse harvest far outstrips that of Egypt, or Morocco, never mind that of Rosa damascena. (Though that rose is still beautiful in its own right.) It is the Grasse rose de Mai’s unrivalled subtlety, its honeyed notes – and the peerless quality of the rose absolue - which drive Chanel to guard this little corner of Provençale terroir so fiercely. France’s leading perfume houses have recently begun lobbying to have this area of Provence protected as a UNESCO World Heritage site. And – speaking on behalf of perfume-lovers everywhere - long may they work to keep the bulldozers and the bricklayers at bay…

ROSE AND THE NOSE Until fairly recently, nobody had managed to pin-point why the rose has us helplessly hooked. The welldocumented potency of scents to stir memories hints, perhaps, at a link with our first toddling interface with Nature, when roses just happened to be poised perfectly at nose-level, beckoning us to breathe ourselves heaven-wards. But according to our perfume boffin friend Professor George Dodd, one of the molecules in rose stimulates a neurotransmitter in the brain responsible for infatuation. Thereby lulling our brains into a state of bliss at a mere whiff, a hintlet of rosiness...

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ladies of the land A rose is a rose is a rose… Or is it? Not when it comes to rose fragrances. So from the many creations which have rose at their heart, we asked award-winning blogger Persolaise to pluck a bunch of his favourites

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notes from the blogosphere

Foremost amongst them the tempestuous dame with the fiery eyes - is Guerlain Nahéma (1979), a masterpiece of 20th century perfumery and one of JeanPaul Guerlain’s most astonishing achievements. I will never forget the first time it allowed me into its burning core. I was in yet another soulless shopping mall and I sprayed a few drops of the extrait onto a blotter, not expecting to be moved in any meaningful way. More fool me. The next few seconds were almost like a glimpse into an alternate universe. A tornado of peppery woods sucked me in. I fell headlong into a lagoon of creamy peaches. Tendrils of vanilla tugged at my limbs. And then came the rose: an incandescent vision, both celestial and earthly. It rapidly became, and remains, a personal favourite. Standing next to this firebrand is the alluring hypnotist: Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle Portrait Of A Lady (2010), composed by Dominique Ropion. Although its stature is equally monolithic, its heart is more contemplative, using the ecclesiastical power of frankincense to turn the Turkish rose at its heart into an impassioned prayer of scent. It pulls all passers-by towards its woody, musky base, seducing them into submission with the impossibly proportioned flower at its centre. A haunted, reflective demeanour is presented by Une Rose Chyprée (2009) from the Swiss perfumer, Andy Tauer. Spectres

descend onto a surface of dark, polished woods. A powdery facet emerges too, preventing the whole from becoming too opaque, but the emphasis remains on mystery, danger and darkness. Every story needs a rogue factor - an injection of unpredictability - and mine arrives in the form of Antoine Lie and Antoine Maisondieu’s Eau De Protection (2009) from the avant-garde French brand État Libre d’Orange. Although the rose at the heart of this distinctive fragrance is completely recognisable as a rose, it’s also edgy, as though prepared to reveal its thorns at the slightest provocation. Acting very much like the defensive shield alluded to in its name, it is inscrutable, assertive and it surrounds its wearer with a veil of glinting metal. Striking stuff. And finally, the ingénue. Some rose fragrances don’t try to present the flower in novel or unusual ways: they set themselves the none-too-simple task of reflecting the scent of the plant as faithfully and accurately as possible. Of these, perhaps one of the most successful is Serge Lutens Sa Majesté La Rose (2000) by Christopher Sheldrake. It is creamy, velvety, colourful, candied and gentle in all the right places. It doesn’t draw unnecessary attention to itself. And, just like those breathtaking blooms in my garden, it is filled with the irrepressible power of hopefulness. Smell it... and feel a new tomorrow cradle you in a comforting embrace. persolaise.blogspot.com

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what the nose knows

Sabine de Tscharner

Belgian-born Sabine has been creating scents since 1991, working with perfume house Firmenich, and is based in Princeton, New York. One of her most recent projects is the Bergamot & Ginger bodycare collection for Liz Earle, which put Sabine on our radar.

But what makes her unusual, as a ‘nose’, is that for the first 13 years of her life Sabine could barely smell a thing… So who better to continue this series of interviews with ‘noses’ than someone who knows what it’s like to live without that precious sense of smell…? How did it come about that you weren’t able to smell, as a child? I had very narrow breathing passages, which meant that basically, my nose was completely blocked for years. There was about a week in the middle of summer when the weather was right, and I could smell because my nose was clear, and that was it. How was that problem solved? I had some really uncomfortable surgery when I was 13. At first I wasn’t really conscious of any change, but my mother pointed out to me that I’d come in and say, ‘Mmmm, chicken for dinner’ – and that I was really talking a lot about smells and aromas. She observed that I was even picking up on smells that other people couldn’t sense, and was able to identify them quite well. And I literally woke up one morning not long later and said, ‘I want to be a perfumer, and put smells together.’ Both my parents are lawyers and they thought, ‘this too shall pass…’ To them, I might as well have said I wanted to be a rock star. What next? Well, my dad was actually very open-minded and said let’s look into this; we found some listings for fragrance companies in the phone book, and discovered there was a company called Givaudan based in Geneva, where my grandparents lived. I wrote to the CEO asking for a summer job – ‘My name is Sabine and I’m 15 and I want to be a perfumer’ – and even though he must have laughed really loudly, I got a one-week internship. I completely fell in love with perfumery, got myself another one-month internship a year later – and then they tested my smelling abilities, and I did well. I worked hard to get the required qualifications – I was good at Maths, decent enough in Chemistry (though terrible at Physics); they weren’t necessarily the subjects I’d have chosen, but I was dead set on this career. Later I graduated from the perfumery school in Versailles, ISIPCA. 18 The scented Letter

“

As a “foodie”, I love the new trend of gourmand notes, which a perfumer like me can have a lot of fun with.

Is perfumery a man’s world? Slowly, it’s becoming 50/50. It was definitely a majority of men, when I started, and I was definitely told ‘as a woman, don’t bother to try to do this’. It made me even more determined to follow my dream. Can you talk about projects you’ve worked on? Since I was at Firmenich I’ve worked on dozens of fragrance projects; the frustrating thing is that I’m not usually allowed to talk about them. At any one time I might have anywhere from five to 20 projects at various stages of completion. It’s nice to be able to talk about the Liz Earle project, which was a joy to work on. Is it different creating a body product to working on a liquid fragrance? It’s actually more challenging, because in a scent that you just apply to the skin, there’s nothing to interfere with the fragrance. The minute you try to incorporate it in a shower gel, a body lotion or a candle, for instance, there are stability issues and safety issues. The products have to smell exactly the same, even though they’ve got completely different textures! A body lotion, for instance, can suck the freshness right out of a scent. But those sorts of challenges are part of why I love what I do. What are your favourite ingredients to work with? I love citrus notes – like bergamot – which is one reason this was so enjoyable. But it was a challenge to ensure it smelled feminine, because bergamot and ginger can be quite masculine notes. I wanted to keep it fresh, but I found some sheer florals that would ‘dress up’ the ginger but allow it to keep its vibrancy. So I played with grapefruit, which can be quite juicy, and some freesia, lily of the valley, jasmine and a clean musk. The key, though, was to keep it bright and sparkling, throughout the fragrance. I’m a big fan of woody notes, especially vetiver, and anything green, from the scent of fresh-cut grass through to ‘stemmy’ notes and galbanum. But as a ‘foodie’, I also love the new trend of gourmand notes, which a perfumer like me can have a lot of fun with. And watery notes, too…! As you can probably tell, I like a lot of things! Rediscovering old favourite materials is a bit like stumbling across an old song

”

that you loved. But as perfumers, we go through phases – so I have my citrus moments, my woody moments… What fragrances do you wear? I like refreshing scents. Usually, I’m doing trials of fragrances I am working on, or trying what else is new on the market. But I have a couple made by my colleagues that I love – and some Tom Fords that are high-end and niche. But nothing too heavy and heady, ever. What’s the hardest challenge about your job? When someone doesn’t know what they want. Indecision’s very tough; I like it when I can ‘co-create’ a fragrance with a brand or an individual. What’s your ‘olfactive therapy’? The air before a thunderstorm. And your favourite scent memory…? The smell of the roses my father planted for me.

Find Sabine’s zesty bodycare for Liz Earle at lizearle.com

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beach bouquets

the best-smelling spfs

under the sun

How often have you slathered yourself in sun protection, only to find it has a metallic or chemical scent you can’t wait to shower off again? (Or worse, fake coconut...)

Well, the good news is that there really is something new under the sun: a selection of tanning products – pre-sun, post-sun and faux sun – which smell great, while they’re shielding/tinting/repairing your skin. We can’t wait to hit the beach, thanks to these sense-pleasers…

FABULOUS FAKES Caudalie Divine Legs Our go-to leg tint for those bare-leg emergencies, Divine Legs is an extension of the beautifully-scented Divine Oil bodycare range (which has now, as you’ll see on p.28, has been joined by a fragrance). It’s a featherlight tinted fluid which smooths beautifully into skin, delivering an eventoned golden colour that you can build up as desired – but it washes right off (with soap or body wash), as required. A real pleasure to use. £26 for 100g uk.spacenk.com Elemis Total Glow Bronzing Body Lotion Among the richest-textured fake tanners we’ve ever used – and absolutely the nicest-smelling in that category, too. Seriously skinquenching, one treatment’s enough

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for quite a healthy colour, and skin’s left fragranced with floral notes, lifted by hints of lemon and patchouli. (There’s still a touch of the usual eau de biscuit tin next day, however, once the tan’s developed.) £34.50 for 200ml debenhams.com

FRAGRANT SPFs Biotherm Lait Solaire SPF15 Biotherm was introduced to the UK by L’Oréal a few years back, and the shining stars of the range are the sun products. This wonderfully citrusscented suncare comes in a range of options from SPF15 right up to SPF50, but all with a fab lemon ‘zing’ about them – and a texture that melts right into skin, on application. £16.50 for 200ml biotherm.co.uk Decléor Aroma Sun Expert Protective Hydrating Milk for Body SPF50 The clue’s in the name: Decléor’s entire Aroma Sun range smells way more gorgeous than most, infused with Tahitian vanilla, rose essential oil and jasmine and melon extracts. In a pump-action bottle, it’s a non-sticky formulation which won’t leave skin looking chalky, either. £24 for 150ml decleor.co.uk

SCENTED SUNDOWNERS Lancôme Soleil Bronzer Hydrating Beautifying After Sun Milk This soothing, moisturising veil is based on a luxurious trilogy of oils: argan (a ‘buzz’ ingredient for the past few years), musk rose and exotic monoï – which gets its name from the ancient Tahitian word meaning ‘scented oil’. The rose and the monoï make for a delicate and prettily-scented product we’ve a hunch you’ll want to smooth into every square inch of sun-exposed skin. £24 for 200ml houseoffraser.com Guerlain Terracotta After Sun Cream Quite possibly the most luscious, divinely-scented after-sun we’ve ever had the pleasure of slathering into sun-baked limbs. The ‘tan booster complex’ helps maintain that sunkissed glow for longer, but it’s the scent of this which has us sold: lashings of tiaré flower (also known as frangipani) - an exotic white floral which delivers a close-your-eyesand-you’re-in-paradise scent to this post-beach nourisher. £37 for 150ml selfridges.com

Burt’s Bees Aloe & Linden Flower After Sun Soother Honeyed notes of linden flower are drizzled all over this soothing after-sun, which can also be used on the face. Skinfriendly ingredients include coconut oil, bee pollen and hydrating glycerine, as well as cooling aloe vera – and it sinks in well. Even better: like the rest of the Burt’s Bees range, it’s a bit of a ‘steal’. £11.99 for 175ml burtsbees.co.uk

Michael Kors After Sun Gelee Cool as can be, this luxe-texture moisturiser – from sohot designer Michael Kors – is deliciously (but lightly) scented with orange flower, cassis, mandarin, jasmine, musk, sandalwood, moss and patchouli. (We’ve a hunch all the best-dressed beach bags are going to be carrying one of these blingtastic gold tubes, this summer.) £19 for 100ml debenhams.com

tip If you’re sun-sensitive, probably best to avoid the SPF products we mention here, and opt for unscented versions. Do see our tips for fragrance in the sun in LATEST LAUNCHES, on p. 38

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The Fragrance Foundation Awards 2014

And the winner is... Each year, insiders from the fragrance industry vote in The Fragrance Foundation Awards (formerly known as the ‘FiFis’) – and here are this year’s top scents

AWARD WINNER

2014

The Fragrance Foundation Awards are known as the ‘Oscars’ of the fragrance industry, celebrated during a hotly-anticipated gala soirée where zens of golden envelopes are torn open to reveal the winners. It’s an excuse for the perfume world to kick up its (very high) heels over a glamorous dinner – attended this year by Richard E. Grant, Nancy Dell’Olio and James and Ola Jordan, with Natasha Kaplinsky in the role of compère. So: do you agree with the verdicts of the judges…?

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Best New Design & Packaging – Female Fragrance

MARNI MARNI

£68 for 65ml eau de parfum harrods.com

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Best New Design & Packaging – Male Fragrance

BOTTEGA VENETA POUR HOMME

£68 for 65ml eau de parfum debenhams.com

Best New Fragrance in Female Distribution

★

Best New Independent Fragrance

£142 for 50ml selfridges.com

Approx £88 for 50ml eau de parfum byredo.com

TOM FORD PLUM JAPONAIS

★

BYREDO INEZ AND VINOODH 1996

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The Fragrance Foundation Awards 2014

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Ultimate Launch

ONE DIRECTION OUR MOMENT £21 for 30ml eau de parfum theperfumeshop.com

Reader’s Choice for Women

MARC JACOBS HONEY £50 for 50ml eau de parfum debenhams.com

AWARDS FOR ADS In addition to recognising scent achievements, all those so-glamorous cinema/TV commercials and print adverts are voted on, too. And the Awards went to… Best New Print Advertising – Female Fragrance Jo Malone London Peony & Blush Suede Best New Print Advertising – Male Fragrance Burberry Brit Rhythm Best New Commercial – Female Fragrance Chanel No. 5 Best New Commercial – Male Fragrance Jean-Paul Gaultier Le Male

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People’s Choice for Men

PACO RABANNE 1 MILLION INTENSE £44 for 50ml eau de toilette selfridges.com

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Reader’s Choice for Men

PACO RABANNE INVICTUS

A massive night for Paco Rabanne (their table went wild!); this also scooped Best New Male Fragrance. £41.50 for 50ml eau de toilette selfridges.com

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Best New Female Fragrance

Retailer of the Year

GIORGIO ARMANI SI

HARRODS

£46 for 30ml eau de parfum armanibeauty.co.uk

A stunning achievement for Harrods – even before their hotly-anticipated autumn launch of the Salon de Parfums, on the 6th Floor. (Here’s a preview glimpse of what’s in store). harrods.com

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Best New Celebrity Fragrance

RIHANNA NUDE £20 for 30ml eau de parfum theperfumeshop.com

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Special Contribution to the Fragrance Industry

Roja dove

Who knows more about fragrance than Roja Dove? Almost nobody we’ve ever met. His passion for the world of scent knows no bounds – and there’s nothing Roja loves better than to share his inisghts with journalists and the public, as well as customers of his own Roja Parfums brand. (His training days, run under The Fragrance Foundation umbrella, are hot tickets for perfume writers at all levels.) Each year The Fragrance Foundation recognises one individual for their outstanding contribution to the perfume industry, and this year Roja took home the beautiful glass trophy (to add to his rather extensive collection of Lalique).

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Perfume Extraordinare

ATKINSON’S 24 OLD BOND STREET

This was voted for ‘blind’ by the journalists and bloggers who won coveted Jasmine Awards in 2014. We were particularly thrilled by this Award, since a sample of 24 Old Bond Street features in the ‘joining gift’ Discovery Box sent out to our VIP Subscribers on signing up. £80 for 50ml eau de Cologne harrods.com

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Basenotes Reader Awards 2014

And once a year, too, the Basenotes website asks fragrance consumers which scents they’ve enjoyed that year. Here are some of this year’s triumphs…

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House of the Year

AMOUAGE

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Best Perfumery

LES SENTEURS

Amouage creates opulent fragrances from some of the world’s rarest and most luxurious ingredients, under Creative Director Christopher Chong. Many draw inspiration from the rich fragrance heritage of the Middle East – but their appeal is global… amouage.com

LUCKYSCENT

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Perfumer of the Year

BERTRAND DUCHAUFOUR

Like The Perfume Society, the Luckyscent website believes in the ‘try-before-you-buy’ approach to perfume. As they say, ‘You wouldn’t buy a car without driving it first – and we believe a fragrance is no different.’ So they hand-fill samples with any fragrance featured on their site – and Luckyscent has a seriously exciting range (from Amouage, above, to Xerjoff – and well over 100 in between). Shipping is pricy, though: to the UK, you may be looking at $25 on top of the cost of samples. luckyscent.com

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Maverick Bertrand Duchaufour is one of the busiest ‘noses’ in the business, pushing boundaries to create thought-provoking perfumes including – most recently – L’Artisan Parfumeur’s Explosions d’Emotions series, Penhaligon’s Tralala and Vaara (which features in The Perfume Society’s Summer Scentsations Discovery Box), and the new Aedes de Venustas scent, for that New York scent mecca.

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Women’s Hall of Fame

GUERLAIN MITSOUKO

Luca Turin, perfume critic and coauthor (with his wife Tania Sanchez) of Perfumes: The Guide, once declared Mitsouko the greatest scent ever created – and if you’ve never smelled it, sniff it out now at your nearest Guerlain counter. (Why Mitsouko isn’t more widely-known beats us, but this award’s seriously well-deserved.) guerlain.com

basenotes.net

★

Best online store

Just celebrating 30 years of independent fragrance retailing, this award’s the icing on the birthday cake for Les Senteurs, who have two shops – in Pimlico and Marylebone – where you can while away many a happy, scented hour. Welcoming, expert (but not-pushy) staff make shopping in either store not just a pleasure, but an education – every time. lessenteurs.com

We invite you to visit The Perfume Societyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s website daily for breaking perfume news, features, and exclusive VIP Subscriber material, as well as updates on all our events. And to keep your finger on the pulse of all things perfumed, do follow us on Twitter, Facebook and Instagram, too. perfumesociety.org

what’s in the box?

try our

summer scentsations One of the privileges of being a VIP Subscriber to The Perfume Society is preview access to our Fragrance Edit Discovery Boxes. The first of these - ‘Summer Scentsations’ – showcases an edit of some of our favourite summer scents. And if you open the box, here’s what your senses will delight in...

Balmain Extatic

Caudalie Parfum Divin

The latest scent from fashion house Balmain is sensual, stylish and utterly addictive, with a truly lavish fusion of notes including fruity nashi pear and osmanthus at the top. Created by Émilie Copperman, the heart of seductive night jasmine, rose and sweet Sharry orchid (which smells deliciously like chocolate) draws you in further to the scent. Then comes the woody-leathered finale of cashmere wood, amyris wood and Barania leather (a tribute to the Balmain’s signature material). 2ml (full size/£36 for 40ml eau de parfum at harrods.com

This brand new perfume incarnation of Caudalie’s muchloved Divine Oil - created by perfumer Jacques Cavaillier - is every bit as sensuous as the betselling body oil itself, evoking the glorious feeling of summer with every spritz. A splendid floral bouquet, it opens with notes of Moroccan and Bulgarian rose absolutes before evolving into a sophisticated blend of grapefruit, pink peppercorn, vanilla beans and warming musks. 1.5ml (full size/£39 for 50ml eau de parfum at uk.caudalie.com

Fragonard Soleil

L’Occitane Collection de Grasse Néroli & Orchidée

Orla Kiely

By perfumer Jean Guichard, Soleil is an utterly delightful blend of pretty florals. The composition opens with a bouquet of sunny accords as jasmine, freesia, wisteria, lily and iris fragrantly draw you in – off-set by a warming base of amber, sandalwood and musk. Light and feminine, this classic from the legendary historic perfume house of Fragonard, perfectly conjures up the sun-drenched south of France where Fragonard is based. 7ml luxury sample (full size/£30 for 50ml eau de parfum) at marksandspencer.com

L’Occitane brings together raw materials from close and distant lands for this floral addition to La Collection de Grasse. The uplifting, romantic scent opens with a sumptuous composition of orange and mandarin at the top, settling into a heart of neroli, velvety peach, fig milk and the enhancing base of iris and musk working in perfect harmony. Created by Karine Dubreuil, this a cheerful and light fragrance will carry you sensuously through summer. 1.2 ml (full size/£49 for 75ml eau de toilette) at uk.loccitane.com

This summery, floral scent by designer Orla Kiely is inspired by nature, with its so-wearable, refreshing blend of light and sophisticated aromas. At the top, you’ll encounter green tea, peach and fig - blended delightfully with a heart of rose absolute, delicate white florals, osmanthus and sumptuous chocolate. The base notes settle into tonka bean, cedarwood, sandalwood – and it hums with warm, calming ethereal charm. 2 ml (full size/£55 for 100ml eau de parfum), orlakiely.com

ATELIER COLOGNE CÉDRAT ENVIRANT Based on a cocktail called French 75, (which is served in a very secretive speakeasy in New York, so we’re told), Cédrat Envirant is a glorious combination of Moroccan cedrat, lime and bergamot, lime and bergamot, followed by a delicious heart of Chinese mint, basil juniper berries. The fragrance then develops into its base of tonka bean, vetiver and elemi. Atelier Cologne set out to create long-lasting colognes - and this features a luxuriant 15% concentration of oils. 2ml (full size/£85 for 100ml Cologne absolue at selfridges.com

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Penhaligon’s Vaara

PRADA CANDY FLORALE

A truly mouthwatering and sensory experience from perfumer Betrand Duchaufour. Vaara opens with accords of quince, saffron, rosewater, carrot seed and coriander seed, followed by a heart of Indian magnolia, Bulgarian rose oil, freesia, iris, Moroccan rose absolute and peony. The base offers a sweetened dry down with notes of honey, cedarwood, benzoin resin, white musk, tonka bean and milky sandalwood. 1.5ml (full size £85/for 50ml eau de parfum) at penhaligons.com

Based on an imaginary flower, Candy Florale is the latest Candy ‘adventure’ from Prada – maybe you’ve seen the stunning ads, with the ever-beautiful Léa Seydoux as the face of the scent. Opening with top notes of limoncello sorbet, the spring-like mix of accords travels to a floral heart of beautiful peony followed by musks, benzoin and sugary caramel in its base. Created by perfumer Daniela (Roche) Andrier, this seductive powdery floral is full of life. 1.5ml (full size/£38.50 for 30ml eau de toilette) at theperfumeshop.com

Yardley London Jade A light and fresh green floral chypre that smells like a glorious summer’s day… Capturing the spirit of the 1960s, Yardley London Jade is a elegant fragrance created by ‘nose’ Anne-Sophie Chapuis, introduced by fruity, aromatic top notes of peach, bergamot and galbanum. The fragrance then opens into a floral heart composed of rose, jasmine, ylang ylang and orris – finishing in classic chypre style with warming moss, patchouli and sandalwood. 1ml (full size/£19.99 for 50ml eau de toilette) at boots.com

The Body Shop® White Musk Smoky Rose A new and exciting spin on The Body Shop classic White Musk®, so ‘formative’ for many of us. White Musk Smoky Rose opens elegantly with a sumptuous fusion of bergamot, pink pepper and blackcurrant, smoothly opening into a musky heart of bitter-sweet tobacco, delicate orange flower and black smoky rose, melting into a sophisticated blend of immortal flower and sensual musks. The Discovery Box contains a full size 30 ml eau de parfum, worth £13 thebodyshop.co.uk

And your ‘gifts-with-purchase’ In addition to a fresh pack of our Perfume Society ‘blotters’ (or mouilettes), so perfect for trying out fragrances, you’ll receive…

L’Occitane Shea Butter Hand Cream This ultra-nourishing hand cream melts into the skin to instantly hydrate, soften and smooth. Enriched with shea butter, honey, almond milk and coconut milk alongside notes of jasmine and ylang ylang, it’s a handbag saviour that’ll leave your skin silky smooth and smelling utterly divine. What’s more, it works as the perfect companion to your signature scent, because well-moisturised skin helps fragrance to ‘cling’ better. Simply smooth onto the inside of your wrists before applying your favourite scent – and voilà, you’ll find your perfume lasts longer on the skin. 10ml (full size/£8 for 30ml) at uk.loccitane.com

Our Summer Scentsations Discovery Box is available to subscribers for just £10 including free P&P; you need to be logged in with your username and password to www.perfumesociety.org to access this special price. The

scented Letter

an aromatic life

memories, dreams, reflections Actor Richard E. Grant is well-known to us, having first set out screens ablaze in Withnail & I. This autumn (oh, the excitement) he’ll be appearing in Downtown Abbey – but his highlight of 2014 was launching his debut fragrance, JACK. For this edition we put Richard on the couch to discover the smells and scents which have mattered most to him…

When did you realise that scent was really important to you in life? When I was nine years old, I picked all the gardenia and rose petals in our garden, then stuffed them into jams jars of boiled sugar water, sealed them up and buried them in

the garden for a couple of weeks, hoping and believing that some magical osmosis would transform the liquid mixture into scent. Unfortunately ‘stink bombs’ were the actual result. So producing my ‘signature in scent’ JACK almost five decades later is the fulfilment of a boyhood dream, combining my favourite ingredients which include lime, marijuana, mandarin, pepper, cloves, nutmeg, frankincense, vetiver and tobacco absolute. What was the first fragrance you bought for yourself? Eau Sauvage by Christian Dior when I was 16 years old. Its wonderfully citrussy notes and zingy quality seemed the height of sophistication and I wore it till I was 25 years old, living in Africa. Have you had different fragrances for different phases of your life…? While auditioning for acting roles in 1982, having emigrated to London, I worked as a waiter at Tutton’s Brasserie in Covent Garden which is just round the corner from Penhaligon’s. After an evening of very generous tips from a large group of Opera buffs, I bought Penhaligon’s Blenheim Bouquet and wore it faithfully for almost three decades. I fell in love wearing that scent and bought all the Blenheimscented products that went with it - until four years ago when I had an absolute coup de foudre (‘love at first sight’) experience. While dancing with a total stranger at a party in Tuscany, I found myself completely smitten with the scent she was wearing. When I said that I felt my marriage vows were being seriously challenged, she generously gave me a tiny tube of Kai perfume oil, made in Malibu. It is the closest to capturing that all elusive gardenia in an oil that I had ever come across. My marriage remained intact, I forsook Penhaligon’s for this magical oil. But my loyalty was short lived as it’s now been replaced by JACK, which I’ve created with the guidance and expertise of ‘nose’ Alienor Massenet who conjured the scent from the list of ingredients I gave her. The smell that always makes me feel happy is… … gardenias - especially on a sub tropical evening when their perfume is at it’s most powerful. Reminds me simultaneously of being a boy as well as a young hormonally charged-up man determined to conquer the fairer sex.

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The smell that always makes me feel a little bit sad is… … the smell of burning leaves in early autumn, reminding us that another summer is forever over, and while delicious, smoky and earthy, it presages the cold to come. The scent that I love on a woman is… … whatever my wife is wearing. She alternates her way through a variety of scents according to her mood, the occasion or season, so she has a variety of scents that I love, because no matter what she wears, I love her. I’d love to have smelled… … Cleopatra’s scent, the fabled Hanging Gardens of Babylon, the 2,000 gardenias at Frank Sinatra’s funeral, and the breath of my newly-born daughter captured in a bottle. What is your favourite book about perfume…? Due to smelling everything around me wherever possible, I’ve been given more copies of Patrick Suskind’s novel Perfume than any other book and read it more than once. Even though it’s a murder story, the obsession with scent and trying to create the perfect perfume is something I’ve identified with. By way of contrast, almost every Charles Dickens book I’ve ever read is rich with baroque descriptions of the extroardinary smells of Victorian London.

debut fragrance It wouldn’t be fair to ask Richard E. Grant which five fragrances take centre stage on his dressing table, since they’ve all been swept aside for his own first fragrance creation, JACK. Inspired by a conversation on holiday with Anya Hindmarch in the Caribbean (are you getting a glimpse of Richard’s life, yet?), they took to discussing his obsession with smelling everything in sight. Two years later, his signature perfume has been unveiled at Liberty, created in partnership with perfumer Alienor Massenet. (Read much more about Alienor on our website.) A ‘shareable’ creation blending together his favourite aromas – including mandarin, clove, gardenia, pepper, nutmeg, frankincense, oudh, white musk, tobacco absolute and marijuana (!), here’s what some of the reviewers have said about JACK For Her & For Him. ‘It’s earthy, citrussy, hypnotic and rather sexy.’ Kate Shapland, Telegraph Magazine ‘One of the swankiest, sexiest, most moreish fragrances we’ve smelt in a long while.’ Sunday Times STYLE ‘Neither overly manly or feminine, the scent is surprisingly full-bodied yet fresh, with an addictive quality.’ Shortlist ‘It’s a gender blender. I tested it yesterday on three males and me. We all really took to its initial citrus floral tang. There’s a spicypeppery dry-down, with a warm, sweettropical richness… A glorious first fragrance from Mr. Grant.’ The Women’s Room blog JACK eau de parfum, £95 for 100 ml at liberty.co.uk

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scented Letter

wedding scents

A match made in heaven

You’ve found ‘the one’. (As in: the partner you’re marrying.) But how to choose ‘the other one’ – as in: the fragrance which will forever remind you – and the partner you’re marrying - of your Big Day…?

You’re spending hours planning how your wedding looks: the table-settings, the bridesmaids’ dresses, the orders of service. You’ve probably agonised about the hymns for the wedding – and the choice of band/DJ for the party, too. All of these, of course, will remain in your guests’ minds. The photos will be there, forever, in your albums. But have you thought about the role that fragrance will play? Because it’s an element of your wedding that can be even more memorable than sight or sound. At The Perfume Society, we only have to breathe a whisper of Czech & Speake Frankincense & Myrrh candles, to recall a vision of our friend Liz Earle, floating down the aisle to marry handsome film-maker Patrick Drummond. What all her friends talked about, for months afterwards, wasn’t the beauty of the dress (it was gorgeous), or even Liz’s radiance (as glowing as

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a beauty guru ought to be), but the fabulous, incense-y smell from the candles that flickered in every arched window of the church. (The tip: they were lit a couple of hours beforehand, to fill the church to its rafters with their exotic fragrance…) There are countless ways to introduce a more scented element to your wedding. You can start, of course, with the flowers: it’s always seemed madness, to us, to choose flowers on their basis of good looks alone, when they can be swoonily scented. When doing the flowers for a brother’s late-in-life wedding, The Perfume Society’s Jo Fairley chose the roses not just for their deep burgundy velvetiness, but their amazing tea-rose scent. (FYI: the variety was Exstase, grown in Holland, and your florist can almost certainly source it.) ‘When the curtains to the reception room were drawn back,’ recalls Jo, ‘ the whole

Fragrance is an element of your wedding that can be even more memorable than sight or sound.

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scented Letter

what the nose knows

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Make fragrance an important part of your wedding ... and you’re just a breath away from remembering the magic of the day, for years to come

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sun-warmed room was filled with the most breathtaking ultra-rose smell. And when I smell a rose now, I think of how lovely Anya looked, and what a party it was.’ The same could be true for your guests, if you put fragrance at the top of your flower priorities: lilies, hyacinths (for a winter wedding), lavender, rose, viburnum (in flower), with rosemary and myrtle, as greenery. A good florist knows their stuff. Tap into that. (And for more ideas, see right.) The choice of scent you wear, meanwhile, will forever beam your beau back to the moment he leaned forward for that post-‘I-now-pronounce-you-man-and-wife’ kiss faster than you can say ‘Tardis’. But there’s a huge dilemma: should you wear a longstanding favourite – or go for something new, which symbolises your new start? ‘It depends whether you’ve already found your “signature” fragrance, ‘observes Roja Dove. (In which case, his advice is: stick to it.) ‘If not, the start of a marriage is the perfect time to start a life-long relationship with a scent that’s really “you”…’ But to be safe, he advises, wear it a few times before the wedding itself so that your groom doesn’t recoil in horror,

if he doesn’t like what you’re wearing. ‘Just as you would have a run-through for your hair and make-up, you must do the same with a new fragrance. Don’t wear it every day in the run-up to your wedding, but on a few selective evenings out with your partner,’ is his advice. ‘And don’t solicit an opinion: wait for his response – or even a lack of response, because that means that the beauty of the perfume isn’t overpowering yours…’ Whatever fragrance you choose, one thing is for sure: if you want it to last from the minute you leave the house until the moment you slide beneath the sheets that unforgettable night, you’ll want to ‘layer’ your fragrance on: the bath oil, the body lotion, perhaps a dusting of the matching body powder, the whole works – and of course, your chosen fragrance itself, a technique which will ‘time-release’ the notes, as you warm up and cool down over the day. The ultimate, though, is to have a signature fragrance specially created by a bespoke perfumer, just for your wedding. (Prince Rainier did just that for his movie star fiancée, Grace Kelly, from CREED, which happens still to be available in their range under the name Fleurissimo – as floral as the name suggests...) You could even commission a his ‘n’ hers option: perfumer Lyn Harris, founder of Miller Harris, has created fragrances for several soon-to-be-married couples. ‘I think it’s one of the most romantic things a couple can do,’ smiles Lyn, who invites clients to her Notting Hill ‘studio’, for an initial consultation. (Be warned, though: the waiting list for Lyn’s fragrances is almost a year long.) If you’re hiring Versailles, or Cliveden, and money is no object, you could consider Roja himself for that same, ultraromantic gesture; his creations will set you back £20,000 apiece (plus travelling expenses, naturellement). One of his favourite commissions, actually, was for a bride-to-be: ‘very opulent, stylish, based around white flowers – which are very traditional – but with moss and woods to take away the sweetness. At the heart of the fragrance was lashings of orange blossom – which of course is traditionally used for bridal headdresses…’ Plenty of brides do splash out on a special wedding fragrance, but if that’s beyond your budget, he advises perhaps selecting a fragrance to wear – or for your bridesmaids to wear – which echoes the bouquet flowers. (A specialist fragrance store will be able to tell you which floral notes feature in individual scents…) As Helen Keller wrote: ‘smell is a potent wizard that transports us across thousands of miles and all the years we have lived.’ Make fragrance an important part of your wedding – and what you’re wearing – and you’re just a breath away from remembering the magic of the day, for years and years to come. Then each time you light that scented candle, are given a bunch of scented roses, perhaps – or simply dab your wedding day fragrance onto your pulse points - in a nanosecond, it’s as if you’re saying ‘I do’, all over again…

WEDDING SCENT SHOPPING Most department store beauty halls have a wide selection of the most popular fragrances on the market, but if you’re looking for something more individual and unusual, you want to head for a specialist boutique… l Miller Harris, 14 Needham Road, London W11/ +(44)207221 1545; call Needham Road (or visit millerharris.com) for information about the bespoke service. l Roja Dove Haute Parfumerie – a treasure trove of hard-to-find and ultra-exclusive scents, including some which have been created just for his own Harrods Fifth Floor boutique. Other fragrance stars include Caron, and some Dior fragrances which have for the past 30 years only been available at their HQ on the Avenue Montaigne, including Diorling and Diorama. Roja’s team offer one-onone fragrance consultation to help you find your perfect fragrance ‘match’, and the fee is redeemable against your purchase. Call +(44)20-7893 8333, for appointments. l Les Senteurs stocks fabulous ranges which are often hard to track down on this side of the Channel, including CREED, By Kilian and Frederic Malle’s Editions de Parfums. At 71 Elizabeth Street, London SW1/+(44)20 7730 2322, and their Seymour Place boutique. (They also offer a mail order catalogue – but you’ll be missing out on a magical experience, if you shop Les Senteurs by mail…) l Ormonde Jayne, The Royal Arcade, 28 Old Bond Street, London W1/+(44)20 7499 1100. Gorgeous candles and romantic fragrances created for the boutique by Linda Pilkington – who will also take private commissions… l Alternatively, you could also book in for a Guerlain Fragrance Consultation, to identify your ‘signature scent’ from within Guerlain’s range of legendary fragrances; the consultation lasts up to an hour and a half during which your ‘olfactory personality is pieced together’, as Guerlain put it.

HOW TO SCENT A WEDDING We love the ideas for fragrancing his recent wedding which are recalled by Thomas Dunckley (who wrote for our last edition) on his blog The Candy Perfume Boy. Quite aside from spending time choosing the perfect fragrance to wear (at Bloom Perfumery in Spitalfields), Thomas and his husband Nigel (formerly Butterworth) went to great lengths to scent the wedding itself. For a touch of fun, the couple chose Les Bulles d’Agathe scented bubbles by Maison Francis Kurkdjian (£15.50 at uk.spacenk.com). ‘Bubbles add a sense of joviality to the day and keep people entertained through those speeches that may go on that little bit too long,’ recalls Thomas. For table names, they chose the names of some of their favourite perfumes: Shalimar, Mitsouko, Arpège, Angel and more. And for table favours? ‘Seeing as our memories are so intrinsically linked with our sense of smell, we wanted to gift our dearest friends and family with a scent that would always remind them of our wedding day,’ recalls Thomas. For more from Thomas’s evocative and enjoyable ‘How to Scent a Wedding’ blog article, do visit thecandyperfumeboy.com. (The fabulous wedding photographs below were taken by Peter Buncombe. buncombe.co.uk

l Illuminum, 41 Dover Street, London, W1S 4NS, offer a bridal experience (Kate Middleton is said to have paid them a visit pre-wedding). You and your bridal party can enjoy a fragrance consultation to match you to your perfect scent for the special day. All while enjoying a glass of bubbles and some fresh strawberries, to make the experience even more special. To book, simply call +(44)20 7018 2000. l Fans of Jo Malone London™ will be happy to know they’re also at hand to help style your wedding. Their complimentary services include a personal consultation to help you dress yourself and the venue with a scent to suit your personal style. Speak to a Stylist in your local Jo Malone London store to book. l Chanel recently launched a new beauty service for brides at their Covent Garden and Bond Street boutiques, specially designed to prepare you for the big day. The hour-long fragrance consultation will help you pick the perfect scent and you can even record your thoughts and fragrance notes in your very own keepsake Chanel Bridal Journal. Visit either one of the boutiques to book.

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scented Letter

It’s about you

YOUR SCENTS OF SUMMER We asked our VIP subscribers – via Facebook and Twitter (@perfumesociety) – which are the scents that embody summer, to you. Here’s what you shared with us…

Watermelon…

roses… jasmine…

freshly-mown grass… strawberries…

basil…

ice cream… wisteria…

lemons… oranges… night-scented stock… the smell of ozone as rain hits thirsty ground… barbecues…

G&T…

honeysuckle…

Angel Delight… Pimm’s… Limoncello… dry, hot pavements… peaches…

pine trees…

London privet flowers… marigolds… nicotiana… peonies…

Ambre Solaire oil ... lavender…

sun-warmed skin… tomato leaves…

raspberries…

events

Through our contacts in the perfume world, The Perfume Society has amazing access to places, people and happenings – and we want to share that with you. So you’ll find many other exciting events on our website: just visit www.perfumesociety.org/events for info.

One-day Hands-on Introduction to Perfume Course Date: Saturday 26th July 2014 (London) 11 a.m. - 6 p.m. Karen Gilbert, a truly inspiring and inspired teacher (and author of Perfume: The Art & Craft of Fragrance) is offering a one-day workshop for anyone who wants to learn hands-on how to make perfumes, and deepen their appreciation of fragrance and scents.

By the end of the day, you will… • Have an understanding of the historical significance of fragrance • Have learned about the different ingredients used in perfumery • Easily be able to classify aromatic ingredients into the different fragrance families • Have practised blending top middle and base notes to create a simple fragrance to take home The workshop is priced £175 and is available to subscribers of The Perfume Society; we also have some places available if you’d like to bring a friend (for the same fee). Please book via www.perfumesociety.org/events, where you’ll find more in-depth details of the workshop. NB This workshop is hosted in the downstairs training room at Les Senteurs and is therefore not suitable for wheelchairs.

HOW TO IMPROVE YOUR SENSE OF SMELL Dates: Saturday 9th August (London) 11 a.m. – 12:30 p.m. and 3 – 4.30 pm AND Saturday 6th September (Manchester) 11 a.m. – 12.30 p.m. and 3 – 4.30 p.m.

As a VIP subscriber, you’re invited to come along to one of these workshops, which we’ll be holding around the country. Improving your sense of smell not only allows you to get more out of your perfumes, but by sharpening that sense – which is linked with our ability to taste – we get deeper pleasure out of life itself.

✷ &

Courses

workshops

Jo Fairley, The Perfume Society’s Co-Founder, was taught to turbo-charge her sense of smell by some of the world’s greatest ‘noses’. In this free workshop – which she originally taught at Alain de Botton’s School of Life, in London – you will learn a ‘nose workout’ which after just a few weeks should hugely improve your sense of smell, and allow you to experience the fragrances you wear in a new and exciting way. For an additional £15, you may bring one non-subscribed friend – and both of you will receive a little perfumed goodie bag, on the day, there are refreshments (tea and cake!) – and of course, you’ll get to meet fellow perfume-lovers… NB At time of going to press, there was availability for all the events above. We apologise if all spaces have been filled since then, and encourage you to revisit the Events page for updates. We also send bulletins to Perfume Society subscribers announcing new events.

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first whiffs

latest launches Welcome to the round-up of our edited ‘finds’ from among summer’s gorgeous, sparkling launches. Most are widely available (and where they’re not, we tell you). So now, as a Perfume Society subscriber, head out with your booklet of blotters - and sniff them out for yourself…

SCENTS AND THE SUN Yes, we’re about to share with you some beautiful summer fragrances. But it’s wise to be aware that UV light can interact with some sensitising fragrance ingredients, to trigger redness or even (in the case of some citrus ingredients) a permanent ‘staining’ of the skin, with patches of darker pigmentation. So be sunsafe, scent-wise. 1 It’s fine to wear fragrance after dark - but shower it off before heading for the beach, to remove traces from your skin. 2 Alternatively, scent your clothes: spray the inside of a collar, or a scarf, or even the hem of a dress - though if you’re wearing light-coloured clothing, always check first that the scent won’t discolour or stain it, by trying it on a white tissue. 3 Another pretty idea: spritz a length of ribbon generously with fragrance, and tie it around one wrist.

THE FRAGRANCE FAMILIES

CHY

O W O

NTA

O FL

ORIE

PRE

As scentophiles know, fragrances fall into different ‘families’. So we’ve used the same classification system for launches as on our www.perfumesociety.org website. Just look for the coloured strip above the name of the perfume, which is your visual clue to the families. (These are listed below.) Most of us are drawn to a specific family/families: once you know which you fall into, that colour can act as a cue – and help you take a short-cut to the ones you may want to try first…

L TA

FLO

FRESH

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A RM

FOUGERE

AGENT PROVOCATEUR FATALE

AQUA MANDA

ARMANI PRIVÉ ENCENS SATIN

Could an Agent Provocateur creation be anything but sexy? Uh-uh. (And the ad campaign – starring Monica Cruz – is positively smoking, as she swings from a chain in her bondage-style lingerie.) This seduces from the word ‘go’ with Madagascan pink pepper, spicing up succulent elements of mango and blackcurrant. The base notes make Fatale live up to Agent Provocateur’s description of ‘liquid desire’: so-sensual musk and vanilla orchid, which melt into bare skin. £46 for 50ml eau de parfum At House of Fraser

The Perfume Society has a bit of history, when it comes to the relaunch of Aqua Manda. Our Co-Founder Jo started a ‘Bring Back Aqua Manda’ Facebook group – and someone did just that, reworking a much-loved 70s classic for today. The ‘Manda’ comes from the gust of mandarin at first whiff, but then the fresh-fruitiness mellows to an almost powdery heart, on a spiced base of patchouli and cinnamon. It’s newly available in this travel-friendly purse spray. From £27.50 for 30ml aquamandaperfume.com

BOTTEGA VENETA ESSENCE AROMATIQUE

CLINIQUE BEYOND ROSE

ESTEE LAUDER BRONZE GODDESS

From Master Perfumer Michel Almairac, a perfect-for-summer fresh interpretation of a fragrance from the Italian leather goods masters, which has become a global hit. Deliciously delicate, it awakes with breezy notes of Italian bergamot and coriander, roses swirling at the heart. As in the original, there’s serious intrigue in the base, which is interwoven with Australian sandalwood and patchouli essence. If this was a fabric, it would be the finest, sheerest chiffon. From £60 for 50ml eau de Cologne harrods.com

Warming, comforting and utterly enduring. Clinique have captured the essence of the Middle East in this heady mix, which builds layer upon layer into a gloriously silky yet dark and musky bouquet. Velvety rose draws you in at the heart with its sumptuous scent, surrounded by feminine accords of white pepper, freesia, fresh maté leaves, amber and labdanum. The high concentrations of pure ingredients ensure the Oriental aroma lingers sensuously. £110 for 100ml harrods.com

A fragrance reminiscent of a sundrenched beach: a spritz transports you to warm, glistening shores far away, a delicate breeze gliding across your shoulders... The exotic scent opens with fruity-floral notes of bergamot, orange blossom, lemon and orange, with a blend of tiaré flower, jasmine, magnolia, orange blossom and lavender at the heart. A warming symphony brings the scent to its grand finale, via accords of vanilla, amber and sandalwood. £47 for 100ml eau de parfum At Boots

Smoky, sultry, resinous and woody: we’ve a hunch this new launch from Armani Privé – the designer’s ‘haute parfumerie’ collection – will prove tempting to the legion of Middle Eastern fragrance-lovers who converge on London to cool off at this time of year. It’s bewitched us, too, with a simmering blend of immortelle, cistus absolute, vanilla-y benzoin absolute and incense resins, pulsing out woody-spicy warmth. £155 for 100 ml eau de parfum selfridges.com

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GIVENCHY VERY IRRÉSISTIBLE L’EAU EN ROSE

GUERLAIN AQUA ALLEGORIA LIMON VERDE

JARDINS D’ECRIVAINS JUNKY

In keeping with the theme of this issue of The Scented Letter, roses are bursting into bloom in many of summer’s new scents – here, a new interpretation of Givenchy’s bestselling Very Irrésistible, showcasing an innovative rose note which ‘instantly evokes petals studded with crystals of ice’. This ‘sorbet rose’ contrasts with juicy blackberry, and cottony musks. It’s elegant and feminine, ethereal and light – and for rose fans, definitely irresistible. From £37.50 for 30ml eau de toilette At Debenhams

Brazil’s caipirinha cocktails seem to be inspiring perfumers, right now. Guerlain’s Thierry Wasser turns mixologist with this refreshing fusion of sparkling lime and sweet cane sugar, along with Venezualan tonka bean. (Which, it transpires, is a key element of the famous ‘Guerlinade’, pulsing at the heart of almost every Guerlain creation, chosen for its warm, rounded qualities.) After that citrus rush, a pulsing, sultry heat. A tropical treat. £42 for 75ml eau de toilette At John Lewis

Inspired by William S. Burroughs’s novel Junkie, the latest from Jardins d’Ecrivains conjures up the lifestyle of avant-garde figures from the Beat Generation. Opening with cannabis, palisander rosewood and galbanum, it takes you on a olfactory journey through the extreme experiences from the book, via complex accords: violet, iris and gardenia at the heart, on a woody base of cashmeran, cedar and cade, smokily softened by frankincense and myrrh. £73 for 100ml eau de parfum bloomperfume.co.uk

JEAN PATOU CHALDÉE

JEAN PATOU EAU DE PATOU

JO MALONE COLOGNE INTENSE TUBEROSE ANGELICA

Couturier Jean Patou pioneered suncare with a suntan oil called Huile Chaldée, at a time when vacations became super-fashionable for the elite. This sun-drenched sensation from Thomas Fontaine (in-house ‘nose’ at Jean Patou) recreates the scent of that oil, which was hugely popular, getting its powdery warmth from amber and orange blossom, narcissus, opopanax, vanilla and spices. It’s gorgeously vintage and perfectly modern, all at once. £150 for 100 ml eau de parfum harrods.com

A trio of fragrances has been revived in the Jean Patou Heritage Collection ( see Chaldée, left ), each packaged in hefty, timeless flacons. A ‘lift’ for the senses, Eau de Patou sparkles with crisp notes of bergamot, orange, sweet lime and Sicilian citrus, sweetened by traces of orange blossom, with pepper lavender making an aromatic appearance. A quintessential Cologne, reworked by Thomas Fontaine to deliver unusual endurance on the skin. £150 for 100 ml eau de toilette harrods.com

The latest fragrance in Jo Malone’s Cologne Intense Collection, this charismatic floral bouquet is deep, rich and embracing. From perfumer Marie Salamagne, the blend of green angelica, honey-sweet tuberose blossom and silky sandalwood makes the perfect refreshing yet spicy composition with which to scent a summer’s evening. (Look out for a special limited edition gilded bottle too, inspired by the fretwork of the Middle East.) £100 for 100ml Cologne intense jomalone.co.uk

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JULIETTE HAS A GUN OIL FICTION

KATY PERRY ROYAL REVOLUTION

LA PERLA IN ROSA

A contender for Strangest-Named Fragrance of 2014, this limited edition Oriental has a different ‘look’ to Romano Ricci’s earlier creations, showing off the intense, amber-y ‘juice’ inside the bottle. Tart bergamot opens, before the lights dim and this fragrance revs right up: amber, ylang ylang, iris, tuberose, labdanum, papyrus (we’re seeing that a lot at the moment), vanilla, sandalwood, touches of saffron and the Ambroxan Romano loves, loves, loves. £250 for 75ml eau de parfum harrods.com

The third in line for quirky Queen of pop, Katy Perry Royal Revolution is a floral bouquet with a fruity twist. Opening with top notes of pink freesia and pomegranate and smoothed with sandalwood, pretty jasmine and orange flower in its heart, this interesting creation contains the rare base note of blackthorn, which mixes with musk, leather and vanilla orchid. A total personification of Miss Perry: always intriguing, always outrageous, always watchable. From £23.50 for 30ml eau de parfum At The Perfume Shop

LES EDITIONS DE PARFUM FREDERIC MALLE EAU DE MAGNOLIA

MARC JACOBS DAISY DREAM

ORMONDE JAYNE BLACK GOLD

Frederic Malle is the man who emblazons the names of his perfumers right there in plain sight on the label – and the credit for this fresh introduction goes to ‘nose’ Carlos Benaïm. Magnolia’s sweetness is usually played up, but here the green, almost citrussy leafiness takes centre stage, in a Cologne-esque formulation. Vetiver adds depth and woody intrigue in an incredibly wearable scent that’s being raved about by bloggers and perfumistas. From £105 for 50ml eau de parfum lessenteurs.com

A light, airy and captivating addition to Marc Jacobs’ ever-growing ‘daisy chain’: Daisy Dream is inspired by the ‘boundless spirit of daisies and blue sky’. And that’s precisely where it takes you on first sniff – to a picturesque daisy-dotted field. The vibrant fruity floral layers are a joyful, sensuous summer journey through aromas of blackberry, grapefruit, jasmine, lychee and blue wisteria, with notes white woods, musks and coconut water lingering on the skin. £39 for 3ml eau de toilette At Debenhams

According to Linda Pilkington, this super-sophisticated, super-seductive Harrods-exclusive scent was her ‘labour of love’. It tempts with top notes of zesty citrus, blending bergamot, lemon, mandarin and clary sage with boozy juniper, nuances of water lilies, jasmine, rose, orchids and carnation absolute. The complex base is what truly seduces: a fusion of moss, labdanum, oudh, musk, ambrette seed, cedar, patchouli, vetiver, sandalwood and vanilla. £420 for 120 ml parfum harrods.com

Following on from its 2012 incarnation - La Perla In Rosa Eau de Toilette - the lingerie brand brings you a new eau de parfum concentration. This is a ‘feathery’, feminine, fruity floral for a young woman, with a sense of herself and her sensuality. Top notes of mandarin, redcurrant and pink pepper tiptoe into a heart of orange flower, rose oil and orris, warming into a seductive base of patchouli, vanilla and pink praline. £49 for 50ml eau de parfum johnlewis.com

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PACO RABANNE LADY MILLION EAU MY GOLD

SISLEY EAU TROPICALE

THIERRY MUGLER ANGEL EAU SUCRÉE

If Lady Million is the ultimate in bling, Eau My Gold is a new, ‘humbled’ floral-fruity eau de toilette addition to the family, swapping lavish lifestyles for life’s simpler pleasures. Created by master nose Anne Flipo, the top notes open with mango, mandarin, bergamot, neroli and grapefruit, settling into a warmer heart of orange blossom and violet leaf. Calm elements notes of cedar, amber, sandalwood and musk are the final pay-off. £45 for 50ml eau de toilette At The Fragrance Shop

A tropical forest post-storm, atmospherically bottled: this sparkling scent is reminiscent of far-flung lands which are home to exotic birds, deliciously ripe fruit and colourful flowers. A gloriously floral composition emphasised by the addition of ginger and bergamot, blossoming into a heart of tuberose, violet and rose. It marks a new flower-powered direction for Sisley, who have become renowned for their creations in the ‘chypre’ family. From £57 for 50ml eau de toilette sisley-paris.co.uk

There’s a definite sugar dusting on several launches in this edition of The Scented Letter – but a new twist on Angel is a mouthwatering proposition for lovers of the iconic gourmand scent. Tangy red berry sorbet and light-as-air caramelised meringue are layered over Angel’s classic Oriental base of patchouli and vanilla. The limited edition, meanwhile, is sure to become a collector’s item – dusted with pearly glints, as if sugar-dipped. £42 for 50ml Eau Sucrée (eau de toilette) muglerstore.co.uk

TOM FORD COSTA AZZURRA

TOM FORD MANDARINO DI AMALFI

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS CALIFORNIA RÊVERIE

This new addition to the so-popular Neroli Portofino Collection is a seriously shareable evocation of a sun-baked Italian seaside landscape. Smell the salt-baked note of seaweed and driftwood (along with hints of agarwood, or oudh). Breathe again, for a gust of juniper, myrtle, basil and French lavender, crisped up by Italian lemons and yellow mandarin, all tethered by hints of lentisque resin, frankincense and vetiver. As bracing as it gets, scent-wise. £142 for 50ml eau de parfum Stockists: 0870-034 2566

In the second of Tom Ford’s so-fresh introductions, the senses are also awakened by coastal Italian ingredients: tarragon, spearmint, blackcurrant bud and mandarin, with bergamot and grapefruit, an artisanpressed lemon oil and a twist of basil (for a hint of basil-limoncello cocktail). Garland that with jasmine and orange flower, add a breath of black pepper and coriander and yes: we get visions of whitewashed villas, dotting the Amalfi cliffs. £142 for 50ml eau de parfum Stockists: 0870-034 2566

A scent of summer, to us, is jasmine scampering over garden walls. It certainly scampers through Antoine Maisondieu’s sun-filled creation, which shimmers with mandarin and neroli, then blooms exotically with jasmine and sweet frangipani. Your nose might make out a touch of beeswax as the sun sets on this radiant creation, alongside more familiar vanilla. It deftly conjures up that almost permanently sunny paradise state, where jasmine blooms year-round. From £69 for 45 ml eau de parfum At Selfridges

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the men’s room

ACQUA DI PARMA COLONIA LEATHER

BENTLEY FOR MEN ABSOLUTE

DAVIDOFF LOVE THE OCEAN EDITION FOR MEN

Paying homage to Tuscany’s Italian tanneries, the luxurious creation pairs fresh citrus notes found in the brand’s iconic 1916 Colonia fragrance with the rich, sophisticated aroma of handcrafted leather. Brazilian orange and Sicilian lime draw you in as Colonia Leather begins its olfactory journey across the globe, opening into a warming heart of rose and Paraguayan petitgrain and settling into leather, cedar Atlas and guaiac woods at the base. From £140 for 100ml eau de cologne At Harrods

The iconic British motor name brings you the ultimate luxury scent for men who are attracted by all things Bentley: luxury, prestige, and suave sophistication for the ‘statusconscious’ man. This woody scent is packed with spice – top notes include pink pepper, ginger and frankincense. Suitably suave, warm accords pound in the heart, with sandalwood, Atlas cedar and papyrus, on a base sweeten edwith ambergris, plus earthy notes of oudh and mosses. Vroom, vroom. £110 for 100ml eau de toilette At Harrods

Davidoff has supported National Geographic Pristine Seas initiative for three consecutive years via its Love the Ocean campaign. Showcasing Davidoff’s commitment to preserving the sea, every fragrance sold helps to protect 10,000 square metres of ocean. The masculine and sporty fragrance fuses peppermint and orange blossom at the top, unfolding into coriander, geranium, oak moss and musk, delivering a calming aroma that distinctly smells of summer. £50 for 100ml eau de toilette At Boots

DIOR HOMME EAU FOR MEN

PATOU POUR HOMME

PAUL SMITH EXTREME SPORT

A sophisticated, fresh and light fragrance by can’t-put-a-foot-wrong resident Dior perfumer François Demachy. Designed with an ‘effortlessly elegant, urban allure in mind’, this fresh and woody aroma is bold - but so wearable. Grapefruit delivers the sharp opening, with its charismatic, crisp charm. Mixing aromatic coriander and bergamot with the powdery, floral aroma of Tuscan iris, the intense scent gently unfolds into its woody amber base. £66 for 100ml eau de toilette dior.com

When Patou Pour Homme was launched in 1980, conjuring up the elegant and independent spirit of pioneering designer Jean Patou, it was an instant ‘hit’. The good news: Patou’s perfumer Thomas Fontaine has effected this glorious revival of an all-time classic with this infusion of zingy citrus, aromatic and spicy black pepper, tarragon and lavender, - with a subtle floralcy, too, softening decidedly masculine elements of leather, patchouli and frankincense. £150 for 100 ml harrods.com

With credentials in the world of sports and fashion, it’s apt that designer Paul Smith’s latest scent be sports-related: a fresh take on one of his classic creations. The original ingredients - bergamot, geranium and tonka bean - are given an invigorating, energising and punchy kick via the addition of grapefruit, black pepper, mint and cedar. It may be sensuously light on first spritz, but its staying power is quite incredible, once warmed right up. £38.50 for 100ml eau de toilette At Boots

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scented Letter

it takes me right back

In this second issue of The Scented Letter, perfume world insider NICK GILBERT shares his scentmemory of a certain childhood sweetie, which whisks him back to endless summer days in Devon

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Having worked at the coalface of the perfume industry for over 10 years selling fragrance on the shop floor you might imagine that my most evocative scent memory would be from a perfume. But it’s not. My Proustian ‘madeleine moment’ is from an unexpected source. What has always amazed me most about the sense of smell is that had we not developed this chemical sense to avoid danger, we wouldn’t have gone on to develop a brain to store memories of what was dangerous and what was safe. (Quite simply, we wouldn’t have survived.) It’s why olfaction is considered the most primal sense, and why so many researchers and marketers are obsessed with the idea that olfaction is entirely related to sex. Smell isn’t about sex (although it can be); it’s about that power to summon entire scenes and otherwise long-forgotten memories from the depths and make them real, albeit momentarily. As is tradition in any office workplace, colleagues return from their holidays or business trips with multiple bags of sweets. There’s a frequent back and forth to Paris, and the standing order for trips to Paris is to return with strawberryflavoured foam Haribos. The sugary, incredibly ‘fake’ smell of these sweets is so specific that sniffing the bag is instantly transports me to childhood. Our summer holidays (and seemingly random Sundays) were almost always spent with our extended family in Woolacombe. Arrival at Woolacombe meant breakfast

44 The scented Letter

at the Red Barn, setting up windbreaks on the beach (an absolute necessity), then the chaos of us kids burying each other in sand and attacking each other with water pistols filled with freezing cold sea water - while our Mums desperately tried to get us into sunblock. My uncle found a trick to getting us to sit still for it by bringing luminous sunscreen one year, and letting us have whatever we wanted on our faces. (I insisted upon my initials, and as a result had NG in a white outline on my forehead for the rest of the summer.) We’d eventually get hungry from all of the running around, everyone else eating whatever was given - but mum having taken my specific requests seriously: sausage rolls (my favourite food as a child, which my family still tease me about now) and ketchup sandwiches (which lived up to their name once you ate them on the beach, becoming too gritty to finish). Orange squash (that particular, somewhat un-orange flavour that orange squash has) and cans of lemonade, too, if we were really lucky. Some of my other favourite smells are from those innocent, carefree holidays - the smell of climbing over rockpools, fishing for crabs with ham on the end of a fishing line, or with nets, kicking limpets off the rocks. (Luckily for me, that particular smell has been bottled by ‘indy’ perfumer James Heeley in his wonderful fragrance Sel Marin). The smell of copper coins - which most people associate with dirt and metal - instead remind me of being utterly transfixed by the penny falls in the arcades for what felt like hours on end. I was never allowed more than £1 worth of coins. And there’s the scent of sticks of rock (that traditional minty seaside gift), which has also been captured in scent by the divine Sarah McCartney in What I Did On My Holidays for her fabulous 4160 Tuesdays line. Normies Ice Cream Shop sat on the corner, opposite a pharmacy. A quick Google reveals its still there, much to my delight. We’d walk barefoot from the beach with everyone’s order and return, having had half the ice cream melt over our hands. Atop every cornet sat one of those Haribo sweets. I remember thinking each one was placed there lovingly, and felt guilt at not really liking the taste of them. The reality was they’d more likely been stuck onto the ice cream, robot-like, by a bored student. But the reality doesn’t matter. It’s the strawberry tinted memories that do – and such is the power of scent, all it takes is a whiff of a strawberry Haribo for me to be on that beach again.

Smell is about that power to summon entire scenes and long-forgotten memories from the depths

Haribos

In the next edition of The Scented Letter... (out early September) FASHION AND FRAGRANCE SPECIAL

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GUERLAIN REVIVES THE SCENTED GLOVE

BELLA FREUD’S SCENT MEMORIES

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