T h e t r av e l o g
asia
africa
europe
l at i n a m e r i c a
north america
s o u t h pac i f i c
middle east
w h y t r av e l w i t h k e r & d ow n e y the heart of the matter when traveling with Ker & Downey is more than just travel in the form of luxury and style: it’s all about those little ineffable moments, beholding the beauty of the world the way you always imagined. These experiential moments—a breath of fresh mountain air, the rush of adrenaline, the peace of a calm beach, the taste of a new cuisine— whatever it may be for you, you’ll know it when you experience it. And it comes standard on every Ker & Downey journey.
a letter from the president
“People today want to accomplish some kind of transformative experience while they’re taking a vacation.”- Dave Howerton Luxury travelers are looking to be transformed by travel. They are looking for authentic cultural interactions, experiences to improve their health and wellbeing, and one-of-a-kind adventures that come from years of knowledge and travel expertise. And they are bringing their whole family along for the journey. In this edition of Quest Magazine, we’re taking a look at unique and transformative experiences, highlighting the best from each region of our world, and pairing them with our favorite destinations. It’s experiences like a private candlelit dinner in one of Cambodia's sacred temples after the crowds have left, sampling rare vintages of Dom Perignon in Ellerman House’s private Champagne Cellar, and paragliding over the Musandam Peninsula into Six Senses Zighy Bay Resort in Oman. It's important to protect the world we live in so that future travelers can continue to enjoy it and be transformed as well. To do that, Ker & Downey partners with a number of conservation and philanthropy projects across the world to protect endangered species, end the consumption of wildlife products, and contribute to local communities. My wife Gana and I had the opportunity to travel to Kenya in September on our annual medical mission to assist doctors and deliver mosquito nets to rural communities. It's something we look forward to each year. This year, 6,025 mosquito nets were handed out, 4,700 people received medications for various ailments, dentists pulled 328 teeth, ophthalmologists performed 716 eye exams, and over 400 pair of glasses were given to patients. For many, it was their first doctor's visit. It's important, life-saving work that we are privileged to be a part of and it is travel that transforms us. There's much to explore. Discover your world with Ker & Downey.
David Marek President
KER & DOWNEY
3
Among Bangkok's historic palaces, temples, and museums in the royal Dusit District, the Siam sits on three peaceful acres on the banks of the Chao Praya River. The river-front property is a luxury urban retreat within the city with turn of the century oriental artwork and precious antiques.
Contact Ker & Downey or your travel specialist to include The Siam in your next custom journey. +1 800-423-4236 | kerdowney.com
what's new
the latest travels and experiences from our luxury travel consultants
T iffa ny De Sa lvo Where were you last?: Somalisa Camp, Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe You recommend: Guests do not have to leave camp to enjoy the game as the animals, particularly elephants come very close to camp. The camp has been recently rebuilt including a new elevated pool for guest use because the original one was a hit with the elephants. When guests do make it out on a game drive there is rarely another vehicle to be seen, and my guide, Lewis, is one of my all-time favorite guides.
M ic h e lle N ic h ol son Where were you last?: Paraty, Brazil You recommend: For a great overview of Paraty, spend a day on one of the colorful fishing boats. It’s a relaxing way to see the area and get introduced to its charm. Sail to Vermelha, and Cotia and Algodão, stopping along the way to swim and snorkel with sea turtles. And depending on weather conditions, finish off with a visit to Saco do Mamanguá, a tropical fjord of unique beauty.
L ia ne Sou k u p Where were you last?: Northern Territory & West Arnhemland, Australia You recommend: Both places offer remote settings to let you really become one with the land. Several small group and private guided excursions are on offer in the local regions. Highlights include walking around the base of Uluru and seeing the enormous amounts of rock art and the famous rainbow serpent at the Mount Borradaile escarpment in Arnhemland.
j a mie b e l l Where were you last?: Vietnam, Cambodia, and Thailand over 17 days. What is the most memorable property you visited?: For me it was Chiang Rai in Thailand. We spent two days with the elephants and their caretakers, called mahouts, riding them through the countryside. During one of our treks we went swimming with the elephants, and it was amazing. What would you recommend from your trip?: We took a guided Vespa tour in Ho Chi Minh City. It was a blast! We hopped around from bars to restaurants all over the city, trying different kinds of foods, and seeing the nightlife. Don’t let navigating the crazy streets intimidate you. Any other tips for travelers?: If you have a shorter travel window, and you have the stamina for jam-packed days, it is easy for Ker & Downey to combine multiple countries in Southeast Asia. My trip was fast in each place, but we were still able to make meaningful connection to the places and the wonderful people. Most of all —and this is a good tip anywhere in the world—be daring, be adventurous, and have an open mind!
KER & DOWNEY
5
contents
10
83
84
LUXURY CRUISING
journeys
88
FAMILY SAFARI
90
HONEYMOON/ROMANCE
92
ADVENTURE
94
CULINARY
travel tips
96
Insider Secrets of Luxury Travel
AWARD-WINNING SAFARIS
98
HORSEBACK
100
CULTURAL
102
CURATED
arrivals Openings, Revamps and the Latest Travel News
16
Top Itineraries from Ker & Downey
18
the shot One memory captured by photographer Austin Mann
20
giving back Travel that gives back across the globe
pg. 88
destinations 28 ea st africa
32 southern africa
38 north africa & middle ea st
42 a sia
48 north america
54 latin america
FEATURES 30 safari in style
34 six reasons to travel to namibia
40 itinerary: iran
44 touring tokyo
50 top All-American Experiences
64 europe northern & Western
About the photographer: Mark Edward Harris’ editorial work has appeared in publications such as Vanity Fair, Life, Time, GEO, Conde Nast Traveler, AFAR, Vogue, GQ, The Los Angeles Times Sunday Magazine, and The London Sunday Times Travel Magazine as well as all the major photography magazines. His commercial clients range from The Gap to Coca-Cola to Mexicana Airlines. His books include Faces of the Twentieth On the Cover: Century: Master Photographers and Their Work, The Way of the Japanese Bath, Wanderlust, North Korea, South Korea, and Inside Iran.
68 europe
AR T DIRECT ION & DESIGN AMY WILLIS CON TRIB U To rs e d i to rs david marek vanessa N iven WRITERS HALEY BEHAM E lizabeth F rels martine bury nell case y katherine kims maya vandenberg P HOTOG RA PHERS M ark E dward H arris austin mann esther havens LOGO DESIGN E R IC ROI N E S TA D
sophisticated santiago
how to do peru
Polar bear in Kaktovik, Alaska by Mark Edward Harris
Co py e di to r K AT Y H E E R S S E N
56
58
on the cover:
EDI TOR IN CHIEF M artine B ury
66 must-do experiences on emerald isle
let’s connect o n t h e web kerdowney.com
fac e bo o k facebook.com/ KerandDowney
70 italian idyll
twi tter/ i n stagram
ea stern & Southern
@kerdowney
76
800.423.4236 +1.281.371.2500
south pacific
pho ne 78 superlative stays
e m ai l info@kerdowney.com
KER & DOWNEY
7
ta k i n g a i r to n e w h e i g h t s When reserving your custom land arrangements with Ker & Downey, please ask about our incredible airfare rates. Our experts partner with the best to ensure a comfortable and luxurious journey in transit. Forget the hassles: obtain premium seating at great rates, accrue mileage where available, and get the peace-of-mind of lenient cancellation policies.
carriers AIR FRANCE ALITALIA american airlines B RITISH AIR WAYS CATHAY PACIFIC DELTA EMIRATES K LM LATAM AIRLINES Q ATAR AIR WAYS ROYAL AIR MAROC SOUTH AFRICAN AIR WAYS SIN G APORE AIRLINES TUR K ISH AIR WAYS VIR G IN ATLANTIC VIR G IN AUSTRALIA
8
K ER & DOW NEY
British Airways
flysaa.com
WE’VE GOT YOU COVERED. For the best in long-haul comfort, put yourself in the care of Africa’s most awarded airline. Experience a Premium Business Class service with fully-flat seats for a good rest, gourmet cuisine, award-winning South African wines and a selection of on-demand entertainment. Combine this with an extensive route network in Africa and it all makes for sweet dreams.
arrivals
Open in g s , Revamps a nd th e L a test Tra vel News
The Silo, South Africa The Silo in Cape Town’s V&A Waterfront is one of 2017’s most anticipated hotel openings. Since the beginning of the Royal Portfolio, owners Liz and Phil Biden have had a dream of opening a hotel in South Africa’s ‘Mother City.’ In March 2017, with the help of Heatherwick Studios out of London, that dream will become a reality. The new 28-room luxury hotel will be located in the elevator towers of Cape Town’s historic grain silos, adjacent to the new Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art Museum. Notable design features of the unique hotel include pillowed window bays and, of course, Liz’s impeccable interiors and attention to detail.
10
By h a le y b e h a m K ER & DOW NEY
Franklin Hotel, London Annouska Hempel,
one of the world’s most famed designers, has done it again! After a year-long renovation, London’s Franklin Hotel reopened in August. The Knightsbridge Hotel is an informal English Townhouse-meets-gilded romance in the form of mirrored furniture and velvet and silk drapes. Beside’s Annouska’s opulent interiors, the boutique hotel has a Champagne and martini bar, hammam, and an Italian Restaurant led by Michelin-starred chef Alfred Russo.
Photos courtesy of The Silo | Anantara | Alila Hotel & Resorts | Franklin Hotel
Alila Hotels & Resorts You can expect to see a lot
more Alila Hotels & Resorts in the coming years. The hotel brand that opened its first property in Jakarta is rapidly expanding, bringing their hallmark combination of innovative design, personalized hospitality, and a commitment to sustainability to some of the most magnificent settings in South Asia and the Middle East. Late this year they are set to open Alila Villas Koh Russey off the coast of Sihanoukville in Cambodia, and in 2017, be on the lookout for Alila Fort Bishangarh, a 230-yearold-fort-turned luxury resort in Jaipur, India.
Anantara
This fall Anantara expanded their portfolio with two new properties, making their debut in the Sultanate of Oman. The Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar in northeast Oman is set 6,500 feet above sea level on the Saiq Plateau, making it the highest luxury five-star resort in the Middle East. For adrenaline junkies, there’s an abseiling excursion, but hikes through the stunning scenery of the valleys are equally exciting. Just opened, the Al Baleed Resort Salalah is located between the beach and a freshwater lagoon in the southern province of the Dhofar region for a refreshing coastal getaway. Both resorts will boast an Anantara Spa that will draw on Arabia’s traditions and indigenous ingredients for signature spa treatments and ancient hammam rituals.
KER & DOWNEY
11
arrivals
In late 2016, Tide + Time, owner of award winning Chinzombo in Zambia, and architects Silvio Rech and Lesley Carstens, are bringing their newest luxury lodge to Madagascar. The exclusive Miavana is located off the northeast coast of Madagascar on the private island of Nosy Ankao, an area untouched by tourism. Its 14 one-, two-, and three-bedroom villas will have uninterrupted views of the beach and Indian Ocean. The private island is part of a 37,000-acre protected marine area that supports incredible scuba diving and snorkeling, plus turtle, whale, and dolphin watching.
NaÏa, Belize Nestled within a private 200-acre reserve on the Placencia Peninsula, Naïa Resort and Spa is an intimate, natural playground where guests can enjoy an authentic Belize experience on land and at sea. Offering barefoot luxury, Naïa extends along a mile of palm-studded beach and is home to 35 secluded Beach Houses, each one offering breathtaking views of the Caribbean Sea. At the heart of Naïa lies a unique destination spa with five treatment rooms and a private island couples retreat, tucked away on a series of enchanting lily-covered lagoons.
Z abola Estate, Romania Understandably, the restoration of a 123-acre, 600-yearold estate takes many years. Built in 1400, the Zabola Estate has undergone renovations for several of their guesthouses. Their current project is restoring and establishing the castle on the estate as the main guesthouse. The castle, originally built in 15th century, sits high on the estate for beautiful views of Transylvania's countryside and the Carpathian Mountains.It will have 11 bedrooms, nine of which have their own fireplace, and social areas like a breakfast and dining room, drawing room, and bar. The renovation of the castle is scheduled to be completed in 2017, with reservations beginning late Spring.
12
K ER & DOW NEY
Photos courtesy of Miavana | Naia | Zabola Estate
Miava n a, M adaga scar
TIMELESS ELEGANCE ALONG AMSTERDAM’S CANALS A true architectural masterpiece, Waldorf Astoria Amsterdam has the privilege of being hosted by six magnificent 17th and 18th century canal palaces on the prestigious ‘Gentlemen’s Canal’. The rich heritage captured within the walls of this unique property is displayed across the 93 rooms, lofts & suites, with singular characteristics reminiscent of the Dutch Golden Age. From a two Michelin star restaurant experience to a contemporary Afternoon Tea, all dining venues are led by Executive Chef Sidney Schutte and offer exceptional cuisine. From inside the hotel, guests can enjoy the luxurious Guerlain Spa - an inner-sanctuary for wellness & beauty with an extensive menu of restoring treatments.
waldorfastoria.com/amsterdam +31 (0) 20 718 46 20
Create memorable moments at this unforgettable destination.
Contact Ker & Downey or your travel specialist to include the Waldorf Astoria in your next custom journey. © 2 016 H i lt on Wor ld w i d e
+1 800-423-4236 | kerdowney.com
arrivals
S ix S e n s e s, B hu tan The award-winning Six Senses Hotels Resorts Spas is expanding their portfolio in 2017 with five new properties in Bhutan. Find 82 suites spread across five intimate lodges in Thimphu, Punakha, Gangtey, Bumthang, and Paro, creating a fully immersive circuit experience for luxury travelers that takes in the natural beauty of Bhutan. Eighty-two suites will be spread among five intimate lodges in Thimphu, Punakha, Gangtey, Bumthang, and Paro, creating a fully immersive circuit experience for luxury travelers that takes in the natural beauty of Bhutan. True to the Six Senses brand, the lodges will have an eco-friendly design and reflect the heritage and hospitality of the county, known as the “Happiest Place on Earth.” You can also expect a focus on exquisite personal service and wellness.
HOTSPOTS: New Zealand
Photos: Above: Stunning coastal views at Helena Bay; Below: The swanky Marlborough Lodge
Oenophiles rejoice—The Marlborough Lodge has arrived in Blenheim, offering a swank, airy 11-suite retreat ripe for exploring New Zealand’s most famous winelands.
14
K ER & DOW NEY
Travelers to Kiwi country can sip and sample the nation’s finest vintages on the way there. In partnership with the prestigious, master sommelier-selected Fine Wines of New Zealand, Air New Zealand’s inflight Wine Consultants will pour top picks from the list—paired with items from the airline's menu, curated by acclaimed New Zealand chefs Peter Gordon and Michael Meredith—in the carrier’s Business Premier cabins.
Photos courtesy of shutterstock | Helena Bay | The Marlborough Lodge
Just opened, beachy boutique lodge Helena Bay is an intimate, adults-only retreat on unspoiled coastline, boasting only two lush guest villas (for a max five couples) and a dining menu designed by renowned Chef Ernesto Iaccarino and Chef Michele Martino of the Amalfi Coast’s Michelin starred Don Alfonso 1890 restaurant.
Alve a r Ic on H otel & Re s id e n c e s, A rge n tina Opening in July 2017, the Alvear Icon Hotel & Residences is redefining luxury in Puerto Madero, the most cosmopolitan district in Buenos Aires. Set on the banks of the Rio de la Plata River and across from the Faena Art Center, the new hotel will have 159 rooms and suites, each equipped with stateof-the-art technology, arabescato marble walls, and furniture designed exclusively for the hotel. The long-awaited hotel promises some of the best panoramic views in the city, with multiple dining options, including a Kosher restaurant, and full sensory experience in the Spa & Fitness center.
Contact Ker & Downey or your travel specialist to include Relais Christine in your next custom journey. +1 800-423-4236 | kerdowney.com
travel tips I n s i d e r S e c r e t s o f Lu x u ry T r av e l
expe rt packin g:
two w eek s on s a fa ri — in a c a r r y- o n
Ker & Downey's Tiffany DeSalvo, an Africa luxury travel consultant, manages to fit everything she needs for a twoweek trip to Africa in one carry-on. Having been to Africa over 10 times, she's got packing down to a science. Here are her top tips.
Only pack for six days. Most of the camps provide laundry service, so leave any extras at home. For organization and quick access, invest in packing cubes. Tiffany swears by Eagle Creek's Pack-It Specter™ cubes, to keep her carry-on tidy. Separate your clothing into cubes. Think shirts in one, pants in another, and so on.
16
K ER & DOW NEY
Stick to a neutral color palette. Make mixing and matching simple. (Tip: Bring a scarf or two to dress up an outfit for dinner.) Pack an extra cube for laundry. Pack an extra foldable bag for any items you may pick up while traveling. You can still check your bag and carry on a shopping bag. Keep toiletries to a minimum. Don't pack items that will be provided by the camps such as bug spray, body wash, and shampoo.
SIMPLIFY:
the best o f b a s i c t rav el e s se n t i a l s
Hartmann Innovaire Medium Journey
Spectra™ Global Carry-on in Stone
Spinner | $500 | shop.hartmann.com
$300 | swissarmy.com
Spicer Bags Dopp Kit in Cork Dash and
Centennial Stripe Passport Cover
Red Canvas | $54 | spicerbags.com
$58 | henribendel.com
m ust-have pro d uc t:
RE QUIRED REA D ING:
Goe Oi l
T h e H o u s e C a l l e d Mb a b at i
Combating dry skin on safari is simple. Tiffany's go to product is Goe Oil by Jao Brand. This combination of 28 plants, fruits, flowers, oils, and butters pampers and protects—and it smells great too.
Samantha Ford's second book takes place in Paris, Cape Town, and the Kenyan bush, with her experiences breathing life into the characters and settings. It’s a fast-paced page turner that will leave you guessing the outcome up until the very surprising end. It’s an exciting yet tragic story of love, family, and the bonds that tie us to each other. Available on Amazon.
Goe Oil Semisolid All Over Body Oil $48 | www.jaobrand.com KER & DOWNEY
17
the
SHOT ONE PICTURE, ONE MOMENT, ONE MEMORY CAPTURED BY PHOTOGRAPHER austin mann
"This shot comes from Volcanoes National Park, where I found myself standing with a family of gorillas in the wild. Our trackers were just around the corner and had indicated there were a bunch hanging out together ahead. I was walking toward them and just about to come around the bend when I looked to my right and saw this gorilla only three feet from me, just chewing on some bamboo. We both froze, eyes locked for a few moments. After a bit, she started chewing again and when she did, I lifted my iPhone 7 Plus and snapped this image before moving on. It became one of my favorite shots (and moments) from the project."
Austin's work has been widely published in both corporate and non-profit worlds, from National Geographic and the Travel Channel, to Samaritan’s Purse and the Global Poverty Project. His wide range of experience has enabled him to organize and teach workshops worldwide on how to leverage photography and storytelling to dignify people, build communities, and promote change. AustinMann.com @austinmann KER & DOWNEY
19
giving back T r av e l t h at g iv e s back across th e glo be
botswa n a ca mbodi a ecua dor south a fr i ca uga n da
east africa Through annual mission trips, Ker & Downey provides thousands of blood tests and doctor's visits and distributes clothing and supplies, including thousands of mosquito nets.
b ot swa n a For each booking Ker & Downey contributes to the Rhinos Without Borders initiative. This project aims to translocate 100 rhinos from South Africa, where poaching is increasing at an alarming rate, to the comparative safety of neighboring Botswana. 20
K ER & DOW NEY
w i l da i d WildAid uses its global reach to educate consumers on the severe impact of products made from animals to endangered populations and encourages change with a simple message: “When the buying stops, the killing can, too.” Ker & Downey supports their mission as a sponsor of their exclusive stateside events.
cambodia Dedicated to the education and enrichment of Cambodia’s youth, a network of schools supported by donations from Ker & Downey travelers provides Khmer language books, English classes, and school supplies for rural communities across Cambodia.
e c ua d o r Galo Plaza Lasso Foundation, administered by Hacienda Zuleta, promotes conservation and education in the local community through traditional arts. For every client traveling to Ecuador, Ker & Downey contributes to the community library project.
s o ut h a f r i c a Grootbos Private Nature Reserve trains people from local communities and finds work for them in fynbos landscaping and horticulture. A tree is planted in Grootbos’ Ker & Downey Forest for each of our clients traveling to South Africa. KER & DOWNEY
21
Sol y Luna provides an excellent base for exploration of the many fascinating Inca ruins in the area and a perfect departure point for discovering the wonder of Machu Picchu. Enjoy lush gardens, the serene location, and delicious traditional and international fare while delving into the culture and history of Peru. Contact Ker & Downey or your travel specialist to include Sol y Luna in your next custom journey. +1 800-423-4236 | kerdowney.com
g i v i n g b ac k
sol y l u na : Hotel with a heart At Sol y Luna, guests not only enjoy the advantage of luxury in the Sacred Valley; they also get the benefit of seeing how their stay directly impacts the lives of the local community. By Elizabeth Frels
When Petit Miribel was a little girl, she dreamed of becoming a humanitarian. It’s an unusual dream for a child so young, but she did everything in her power to pursue it. Sure, she followed the traditional path of secondary schooling and high-paying corporate jobs, but she eventually left it all behind as soon as she stepped foot in Peru’s Sacred valley. It is here where Petit and her husband Franz arrived 20 years ago and where they immediately fulfilled Petit’s childhood dream with the establishment of their Asociación Sol y Luna, an institution dedicated to improving the lives of underprivileged children in the Sacred Valley.
The most visible place to witness this impact is the Sol y Luna School, which stands adjacent to the property. This private intercultural institution seeks to strengthen its children’s local identity and transform them into citizens of the world through education, art, sports, and most importantly, joy. This is no easy task, as many students come from backgrounds unfit for childhood, from working in the fields to suffering at the hands of violence, abuse, and alcoholism at home. To combat their situation, the Sol y Luna School works to instill in their children a sense of self-esteem. Students are encouraged to embrace their native Quechua language and culture (many children live very close to Machu Picchu but few even know it exists or the rich history associated with it), as well as adopt a sense of internationalism through the English language and hospitality classes. The statistics are clear: if they can speak English, their employment opportunities—no matter their aspirations—are greater.
“ I f you can walk ,
you have to walk for the one who cannot.”
Their funding model is both revolutionary and rare in the travel industry. To finance their mission, Petit and Franz built Sol y Luna and pledged that 100% of the hotel’s profits be funneled directly into the non-profit foundation. This is no ordinary hotel with heart, though. Sol y Luna is lauded worldwide for its style, hospitality, and setting. A Relais & Chateaux property and a Ker & Downey favorite for travelers visiting Peru’s Sacred Valley, the resort consists of 43 stand–alone casitas spread across 37 acres of winding stone pathways, flowering gardens, and enough hummingbirds to fill a fairytale.
The foundation’s most recent undertaking focuses on children with disabilities. Starting in 2015, the school began welcoming special needs children and providing them with personalized assistance alongside a professional team of caretakers, therapists, and educators. The hope is not only to promote training and awareness of children with disabilities, but also to ensure these children have a shot at a dignified life within their communities.
Here at Sol y Luna, guests not only enjoy the advantage of absolute luxury in the Sacred Valley; they also get the benefit of seeing how their stay directly impacts the lives of the local children, their families, and future generations.
As Petit is apt to say, “If you can walk, you have to walk for the one who cannot”—which is exactly what the Asociación Sol y Luna, through the support of visitors to Sol y Luna, aims to do, one child at a time.
O u r S u gg e s t e d I t i n e r a ry:
T r a i l s T h r o u g h t h e S a c r e d Va l l e y
13 days / 12 n ig hts t hr ou g h L im a , C u s co, Sac r e d Va l l e y & M ac h u P i cc h u KER & DOWNEY
23
g i v i n g b ac k
W i l dA i d ’ s K n igh t s Peter and Corie Knights are on a mission to end the illegal wildlife trade. We caught up with Corie to chat about her travel habits and WildAid’s important mission.
24
“ W hen the bu y ing stops , the killing can , too .”
Peter and Corie Knights are driven by desire to leave the world a better place than it was when they arrived. That desire manifests itself in WildAid, founded by Peter in 2000. WildAid’s message is simple—“When the buying stops, the killing can, too.” Instead of focusing on protecting animals from poaching, they’ve shifted their focus to reducing the global consumption and demand on products made from animals.
At the heart of WildAid is a massive education and awareness campaign, which leverages nearly $200 million annually in pro-bono media support from global media partners. WildAid uses big name celebrity ambassadors like Leonardo DiCaprio, Yao Ming, Kate Hudson, and Jackie Chan to help spread its message, reaching up to 1 billion people each week. It’s focus has centered on Asia, where the demand for wildlife parts and products is the highest.
The illegal wildlife trade is one of the largest illicit trades after illegal drugs, arms, and human trafficking, worth an estimated $10-20 billion dollars annually. Animals that once thrived are disappearing at alarming rates: 33,000 elephants a year are killed for the ivory trade, and 73 million sharks killed annually for shark fin soup.
But Americans are huge consumers of illegal and legal wildlife products too. It’s estimated that 80% of Americans are unaware of the illegal wildlife trade and that products they bring into the States are prohibited. To help raise awareness in America, WildAid has recently partnered with the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service to help drive home their message and make wildlife conservation a global priority.
K ER & DOW NEY
How often do you travel? This year has been particularly busy. In the last 10 months I have traveled to Antarctica, the South Pole, Cape Town, Kenya, Costa Rica, the Galapagos Islands, Mexico, the UK, and many cities in the U.S. Sleeping on the ice in a pup tent at minus 38 degrees in the South Pole is a story for another time! Favorite destination and why? Africa. I am at peace and humbled when I am in the company of wild elephants. It also makes me incredibly sad as elephants are having such a tough time. Favorite family holiday you’ve taken? Why? Anyplace tropical of course! I would have to say our favorite travel destination is Devon in the UK as we go every summer to visit family. Peter Knights (CEO of WildAid) and I have two children, Julia and Charlotte and they love it! Riding the quad bike with Grampy, lots of beach time and surfing, taking care of the chickens and dogs, playing in the river. It’s heaven for our girls! What is the greatest success of WildAid so far? Our shark fin campaign which has helped to bring down shark fin consumption by 82% since 2011. Rhino horn prices are down by 50% in Vietnam and China and Ivory prices are down by almost 70% in Hong Kong and China since our campaigns have launched. We have a long way to go but WildAid is making a difference. On some days, it seems like the fight to end poaching is effective. Other days it seems insurmountable. Where do you find the inspiration to keep moving forward with the message of WildAid day after day? I can’t imagine a world without majestic creatures roaming the earth. For me being in the wild is my church. Many of the greatest moments of my life have been spent in the company of elephants, rhinos, whale sharks, giant manta rays, and beautiful cats like leopards, cheetahs, tigers, and lions. What will be left of us if we poach all of these animals to extinction, poison our oceans, and pollute our air? I do not want to raise our children in a world of concrete and high rises.
What’s next for WildAid? We just launched our campaign with the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service to raise awareness about the illegal wildlife trade here. Most people don’t know much about it. For example, when they buy trinkets and souvenirs abroad that are made of ivory or other illegal wildlife products. Just last month (September) in New York, $4.5 million in illegal ivory was confiscated from Metropolitan Fine Art and Antiques. It was the largest seizure in NY history. We are raising awareness about the crisis that lions are facing as well as our ongoing campaigns on sharks, elephants, rhinos, manta rays and pangolins. We have a climate change campaign in China as well, and James Cameron and Arnold Schwarzenegger just did a PSA with us that will come out soon. What’s the best way for people to get involved? Please go on our website www.wildaid.org and sign up for our online newsletters. Introducing us to people that may be able to help us is very effective. Join Peter and I on a WildAid trip to Africa in June of 2017. We can also take you to the Galapagos (we have a WildAid boat there with Angermeyer Cruises) or Mexico to swim with whale sharks. Please join us at our Gala in San Francisco on November 12th at the Ritz Carlton for our “Evening Under the Sea”. We have a great band, Nico and Vinz, and we are honoring our Ambassador, Ian Somerhalder. It promises to be an exciting evening! Tickets are almost sold out. www.wildaid.org/ gala2016 -Haley Beham
I am continuously inspired to keep moving forward for the next generation. Our children must be allowed to experience such natural wonders as we have. I am also incredibly inspired by my husband, the CEO and Founder of WildAid, Peter Knights. We have been married for 17 years. Peter is tireless, traversing the earth for seven months of the year to spread our message.
KER & DOWNEY
25
Contact Ker & Downey or your travel specialist to include Hacienda Zuleta in your next custom journey. +1 800-423-4236 | kerdowney.com
destinations T he Wor l d of Ker & Downey
Amanwana, indonesia
KER & DOWNEY
27
E a st
africa
ethiopia
Rwa n d a
K e n ya
S e yc h e l l e s
M a dag as c a r
Ta n z a n i a
Mauritius
Ug a n d a
ethiopia Interact with the Mursi, Hamer, and Karo locals in Omo Valley, the home of 18 diverse tribes.
Rwa n da Embark on an unforgettable gorilla trekking experience in Volcanoes National Park.
28
K ER & DOW NEY
s e yc h e l l e s
K e n ya
Privately-led boating, snorkeling, and diving excursions help you surrender to the carefree beach state-of-mind.
Observe the Great Migration from the edge of the Rift Valley, staying in the safari-chic Angama Mara luxury camp.
Ta n z a n i a The Selous Game Reserve is a world-renowned UNESCO World Heritage Site noted for its variety of wildlife safari activities set in the unspoiled bush.
M a dag a s c a r Canoe out to the Lemur Island sanctuary to track lemurs through the jungle. KER & DOWNEY
29
east africa
S afa r i i n S t yl e Tanzania’s latest luxury camp blends rich game viewing experiences with warm and contemporary accommodations.
A new hotspot in Tanzania is redefining the safari experience in the Ngorongoro Conservation Area. The Highlands Ngorongoro opened last June, just in time for the spectacular wildebeest migration through the area. Set on the slopes of the Olmoti volcano in Ngorongoro’s wild highlands, the Highlands raises the bar for high-style camps and true wilderness adventure. At 9,000 feet above sea level, it’s the highest altitude luxury accommodation in the region. Eight stylish domed suites draw inspiration from traditional Masai bomas (thatched-hut villages). Yet unlike traditional Bomas, these chic suites have floor-to-ceiling glass bay windows that provide striking views across to the Serengeti. Inside the canvas-and-glass suites find king size beds, en-suite bathrooms, and wood burning stoves for cool winter nights.Finishing touches like fur throws and black and white photographs of Masai tribesmen create an intimate and inviting feel. The Ngorongoro Conservation Area is a magnificent wildlife sanctuary, home to an incredible abundance of animals, including large numbers of leopard, buffalo, and elephant. Game drives into Northern Tanzania’s famous Ngorongoro Crater are easily accessible. Still, because of the unique location of camp, there are tons of other activities for guests to explore.
Photos courtesy of the Highlands Ngorongoro | Esther Havens
From the Highlands, set out on treks through the Crater Highlands, following ancient Masai trails to the Olmoti crater summit, or visit local Masai villages, where the pastoral life has remained unchanged for centuries. —Haley Beham
30
K ER & DOW NEY
i t i n e r a ry S u g g e st e d J O U R N E Y at a g lan c e :
A TAN Z ANIA LUXUR Y SAFARI
1 4 DA Y S / 1 3 NI G HTS Join Ker & Downey on this two-week exclusive Tanzania luxury safari, traveling to all of the most intimate luxury camps and game reserves in Tanzania’s ever-spectacular wheelhouse.
Day 1: Arusha | rivertrees Country Inn Day 2-4: Tarangire | Oliver’s Camp Day 5-6: Ngorongoro | The Highlands Day 7-8: Serengeti | Ubuntu Camp Day 9-10: Serengeti | Namiri Plains Day 11-13: Ruaha | Ruaha River Lodge Day 14: Arusha | Rivertrees Country Inn
KER & DOWNEY
31
southern
africa
B o t s wa n a
South Africa
Mozambique
Zambia
Namibia
Z i m b a bw e
s o ut h a f r i c a At Ellerman House, sample rare vintages of Dom Perignon in the private Champagne Cellar.
M oz a m b i q u e Sail the Indian ocean in an authentic Arabian dhow.
32
K ER & DOW NEY
b ot swa n a Ride a mokoro over the Okavango Delta’s waters.
namibia From luxury chalets in far-flung locations, private guides take you into Himba lands for authentic interactions.
z i m b a bw e Watch the wildlife from a canoe safari along the Zambezi River.
zambia Experience an unforgettable view of Victoria Falls from a lookout point, or via private helicopter.
KER & DOWNEY
33
s o ut h e r n a f r i c a
s i x R e asons to T r av e l to
nam i b i a Head to southwest Africa’s most otherworldly terrain, where the sand dunes touch the sky and the desert meets the sea.
1
Take a Horse Safari through Damaraland Spend eight full days riding west from Twyfelfontein to the Skeleton Coast through the rugged Damaraland. Enjoy breakfast around a campfire, ride up to five hours before stopping for lunch and a siesta, and then continue to the next campsite. There is the possibility of coming upon desert-adapted wildlife like elephants, cheetah, and lions. Riders should have advanced riding skills.
2
Visit with the Himba Isolation has left this singular culture mostly unaffected by Westernization. Connect to the Himba and learn the history of the semi-nomadic people who have been living in Namibia since the early 16th century.
3
Explore the Skeleton Coast The infamous Skeleton Coast is known for its scattered remains of shipwrecks and thousands of Cape fur seals. Accessible only by light aircraft, Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp may be one of the most exclusive desert camps in the world. Explore unspoiled beaches, Cape fur seal colonies, and shipwrecks along the coast on a full-day flight excursion. In the evening, return to eight chic tents with floor-to-ceiling windows that are so well insulated you might forget you’re in the desert. Twelve miles from the coast, on an island in the dry Khumib riverbed, the Skeleton Coast Camp provides a luxurious refuge in Meru-style en-suite tents. Ride through the beautifully desolate region in a 4×4 vehicle, darting in and out of the windswept plains, towering canyons, and wide saltpans.
34
K ER & DOW NEY
4
See Desert-Adapted Wildlife Etosha National Park is a rare sight of large saltpans and slight depressions carved by the powerful winds. Considered Namibia’s premier wildlife destination, the harsh yet captivating landscape is one of Africa’s largest game reserves. Its outlying springs and waterholes attract adapted elephant, wildebeest, springbok, and gemsbok—along with 340 bird species. This is one of the few places in Africa where visitors can also see black rhino and white rhino living together in the same region. Stay within Etosha’s confines at the exclusive Little Ongava, a retreat with only three suites (each with its own private deck and plunge pool).
5
Glimpse the First Light of Day from a Hot Air Balloon View the vast Namib Desert from a hot air balloon as light breaks. During that first hour of sunlight, find a rich contrast in the colors of the sand dunes, plains, and surrounding mountain ranges … it all makes for incredible photos.
6 Sleep out under the stars in your own private “kulala” at Kulala Desert Lodge—just climb up to the rooftop bed, wrap up in luxury bedding, and look up to the sky.—Haley Beham
Stargazing in the Sossusvlei The Namib Desert in Namibia
is one of the darkest accessible places on the earth. While you don’t really need a telescope to make out the Milky Way, Sossusvlei Desert Lodge’s telescope is state of the art. The resident astronomer also assists in pinpointing constellations only seen in the southern hemisphere.
s o ut h e r n a f r i c a
i t i n e r a ry
luxury south african honeymoon
1 0 D AY S / 9 NI G HTS Journey from the Big Five of the Sabi Sand and Eastern Cape to the contemporary art and wine scene of Cape Town. Honeymooners are spoiled with intimate offerings on our romantic getaway, culminating at Ellerman House. Retreat to the Champagne Cellar for tasty pairings of light bites and rare Dom Perignon or spend a day together diving for diamonds in a secret cove.
36
K ER & DOW NEY
Suggested JOURNEY at a glance: Day 1-3: Sabi Sand Game Reserve Singita Boulders Lodge Day 4-6: Kariega game reserve Settlers Drift Day 7-10: Cape Town Ellerman House
B E N G U E L A D I A MOND SAFA R I EXCLUSIVE TO
T h e j o u r n e y o f B e n g u e l a D i a m o n d s b e g i n s d e e p b e n e a t h t h e A t l a n t i c O c e a n’ s p o w e r f u l currents. Mined directly from the seabed and polished with expertise and passion, each stone is transformed into an exquisite, sparkling diamond. Contact Ker & Downey or your travel specialist to include Ellerman House in your next custom journey. +1 800-423-4236 | kerdowney.com
north africa & middle ea st
Egy p t
Q ata r
Israel
S u da n
J o r da n
United Arab
Morocco
E m i r at e s
Oman
oman Paragliding over the Musandam Peninsula into the Six Senses Zighy Bay resort.
israel Visit ancient archaeology digs at Beit Shean and Beit Guvrin. 38
K ER & DOW NEY
israel Bring your camera on a street art and graffiti tour of Tel Aviv.
U n i t e d A r a b E m i r at e s Take a desert wildlife safari through the sands in a vintage Land Rover to see falconry demonstrations.
J ORDAN Overnight in Wadi Rum and have breakfast with a local Bedouin.
e gy p t Private felucca ride to Elephantine and Kitchener’s Island on the Nile River.
KER & DOWNEY
39
Photos clockwise from top: Tehran, Iran's capital; Ruins of the Apadana, Persepolis; Espinas Palace hotel's luxurious suite
middle east
itinerary
i r an An 11-day journey of exploration, history, culture, and architecture across the country.
Dating back to 4,000 BC, Iran is home to one of the oldest societies in the world. The Medes, Assyrians, Egyptians, Greeks, and Romans have all left their mark on the landscape and peoples of the historic region. Since declaring independence on April 1, 1979, Iran is a theocratic republic with a developing economy and a modern infrastructure.
Photos courtesy of Espinas Palace Hotel | iStock
Iran is a surprising destination with welcoming people, turquoise-tiled domes, and busy bazaars. A journey through Iran unveils the history of the Persian Empire and modern day Iran through architecture, art, and culture, visiting ancient sites and modern bazaars, and staying in some of Iran’s most loved hotels. Begin in Tehran, Iran’s capital city, set on the lower slopes of the Alborz Mountains. You’ll get an introduction to the city with a full day tour, starting at the UNESCO World Heritage site Golestan Palace. The palace complex is located in the heart of historic Tehran and is an excellent example of the architectural and artistic achievements of the Qajar era. You’ll also visit the historic Grand Bazaar of Tehran, recognized as the world’s largest bazaar, and either the Archaeological Museum or the Carpet Museum. Your journey continues in Shiraz, birthplace of the Persian poet Hafiz. During the Zand Dynasty, the city thrived and many of the beautiful buildings you see today were built or restored during that time. There is plenty to see in this city: visit Bagh-e Eram Garden and Shiraz University Botanical Garden, the Karim Khan Citadel, the poet Hafiz’s Tomb, Nasir al-Mulk Mosque, Narenjestan Garden and House, and Vakil Bazaar. Take a day trip to visit Persepolis, one of the world’s greatest archaeological sites. Darius the Great founded it 2,500 years ago with the intent to make it the focus of the Achaemenian Empire. You’ll also visit the ancient necropolis Naqsh-eRustam and see tombs thought to belong to Darius I and II, Atraxerxes, and Xerxes I, all hewn out of a cliff.
Colorful mosaics liven the streets of Tehran.
Continue your journey in Iran with a night in Yazd, stopping on the way at Pasargadae. The remaining palaces, gardens, and mausoleum of Cyrus in Pasargadae are exceptional testimonies of Persian civilization. Then you’ll head to Isfahan, Iran’s top tourist destination. Isfahan is a city of tree-lined boulevards, Persian gardens, and Islamic buildings. There are many artisans in the city, displaying the traditional culture of Iran. Spend two days here getting to know the city, and the people who make it so unique. Visit the Chehel Sotoun (the Palace of Forty Columns) and HashtBehesht (the Palace of Eight Paradises), situated within the Nightingale Garden which date back to the year 1660. You’ll also visit handicraft factories and the Isfahan Bazaar, and you’ll uncover the evolution of mosque architecture through 476 separate domes on the Jam e Mosque. Finish your city tours with the Armenian Quarter and Cathedral of Vank. After your stay in Isfahan, travel to Kashan, an oasis along the Qom-Kerman road on the edge of the Dasht-e-Kavir. There’s a cluster of 19th-century houses in Kashan which are significant for their traditional Persian architecture. The Tabatabaei House is one of them: its gardens and courtyards are delightful. Paintings of flowers and birds by the royal painter Kamal-olMolk adorn the walls throughout the house. Iran is a country with a rich history and a fascinating story to tell. Contact your luxury travel professional or the Ker & Downey luxury travel consultants to learn more about traveling to Iran.
O u r S u gg e s t e d I t i n e r a ry:
a j o u r n e y to i r a n
10 days / 9 nights t hr oug h t ehr a n , shi r a z , ya z d, i s fa h a n , & kas h a n KER & DOWNEY
41
a sia
B h u ta n
L aos
Singapore
Cambodia
M a l ay s i a
Sri Lanka
China
Maldives
Thailand
India
Mongolia
Vietnam
Indonesia
Mya n m a r
Uzb e k i s ta n
J a pa n
N e pa l
K a z a k h s ta n
Philippines
india Private hot air balloon ride over palaces and forts.
india Zip through vibrant Old Delhi on your own guided excursion by private rickshaw. 42
K ER & DOW NEY
thailand
ja pa n
Bangkok comes to life at night, and your private guide helps you find the best food, drinks, and market shopping.
In Tokyo, learn the tricks of the culinary trade from a Michelin-honored chef.
m a l ays i a Watch for endangered species like the pygmy elephant and Bornean gibbon with a wildlife expert in the hidden jungles of Borneo.
cambodia The country’s sacred temples open up for a candlelight private dinner, just for you and your traveling companions. KER & DOWNEY
43
asia
TOURI NG TOK YO Shopping, nightlife, art, and food are a constant beat in this sprawling city of over 13 million people. And with Tokyoites who play as hard as they work, Japan’s capital seems to never rest. By Katherine Kims
I n Japan ’ s modern day metropo lis , discover the traditions of the former E do . No trip to Tokyo is complete without a stop to Tsukiji. The 81-year old fish market is also the world’s largest. Explore the expansive labyrinth of stalls selling hundreds of varieties of fish from summertime unagi and abalone to prized fugu and blue fin tuna. Catch the famous early morning auction— get there by 3 a.m.—where bids can fetch prices up to 155.4 million yen ($1.3 million). Then, queue up for sushi breakfast at Sushi Dai. Seek respite in the bustling city at Meiji Jingu, a calming oasis in the middle of Tokyo. The Shinto shrine sits inside a lush, 170-acre park dense with over 100,000 trees. Stroll along graveled paths to the main building, a 95-year old cypress and copper-planked shrine. In a city noted for its high-rise buildings, there are just as many sky-high views. Though not the tallest in Tokyo, Roppongi Hills’ Mori Tower offers 360-degree vistas from Tokyo Bay to Mount Fuji. But the views shouldn’t take away from the main attraction: Mori Art Museum. On the way out, shop originals from Takashi Murakami and Kusama Yayoi at the Roppongi Hills Art & Design Store.
W ith the most M ichelin - starred restaurants , Tokyo is the world ’ s top dining destination . Enjoy the ritual of a traditional kaiseki dinner at Kojyu. The three Michelin-starred restaurant offers a multi-course tasting menu that highlights the seasons. The knowledgeable staff guides diners through the wine and sake list and artful dishes, from delicate fish consommé to seared Kobe beef to uni-topped lobster.
Photos courtesy of iStock | Aman Tokyo 44
K ER & DOW NEY
At Den Chef Zaiyu Hasegawa creates haute Japanese bites while having fun. Signature plates include Dentucky Fried Chicken—an elevated version of fried chicken served in a takeout box embossed with an image of Colonel Hasegawa—and a modern take on traditional monaka wafer, filled instead with persimmon and foie gras. Make a pilgrimage to one of the many sushi-yas. Up three flights inside a nondescript Ginza building, Sushi Sawada offers some of the city’s best. Helmed by two-Michelin star chef Koji Sawada and his wife, the restaurant offers omakase lunch and dinner. But with only six seats, reservations are a must. (Ask your travel specialist to book well in advance.) A minimalist dining room sets the stage for an intimate, unforgettable meal of expertly prepared nigiri.
W hether you ’ re after opulent, Z en , or classic digs , e x pect amaz ing service and breathtaking views at these T okyo hotels . With more than 800,000 crystals bejewelling over 50 chandeliers and over 2,000 original artworks hanging throughout Shangri-La Hotel, Tokyo, the 200-room property is nothing short of lavish. Onsite Nadaman restaurant offers top-notch kaiseki set menus for lunch and dinner. Fight jet lag with an energy restoring treatment at Chi. The spa uses Eastern cure-alls such as Tibetan crystals, Himalayan salts, and stimulation of pressure points. Aman Tokyo is an urban sanctuary located thirty-three floors up (with six combined floors) of Marunouchi’s Otemachi Tower. Find serenity in the grand, light-filled lobby with soaring ceilings and a stone reflecting pool. Enjoy koto at “Black Afternoon Tea,” appropriately named after the monochromatic spread. Or take in sweeping views from the Library or Cigar Lounge. All 84 rooms combine urban sophistication with traditional Japanese design using washi paper and blonde camphor wood and featuring a furo soaking tub. The impressive spa boasts a steam and onsen-like sauna, fitness center, yoga studio, and a panoramic indoor 100-foot pool that seems set in the clouds, miles away from the city.
Photos clockwise from top: Bustling Tokyo comes alive at night; Exquisite views from Aman Tokyo's indoor pool; Tokyo's cuisine is some of the best in the world; Over 100,000 trees fill lush Meiji Jingu
Directly facing the Imperial Palace, the Palace Hotel is iconic in the Tokyo landscape. Reserve the Chiyoda Suite, outfitted with a traditional Japanese soaking tub, art, and textiles. The setting from the wraparound terrace doesn’t get any better with top floor views of the Palace and Tokyo skyline. There are 10 restaurants—from tempura and teppanyaki to French fine dining at the Michelin-starred Crown—and Japan’s first Evian spa.
KER & DOWNEY
45
asia
i t i n e r a ry S u g g e st e d J O U R N E Y at a g lan c e :
B i g C at s o f I n d i a
2 2 DA Y S / 2 1 NI G HTS Ker & Downey’s ultimate luxury India tiger safari dives into the dramatic mystique and jungle wildlife of India with audacious abandon.
Day 1-2: delhi | Leela Palace New Delhi Day 3: Agra | The Oberoi Amarvilas Day 4-6: Rathambore | The oberoi Vanyavilas Day 7-8: Jaipur | The oberoi Rajvilas Day 9-10: Udaipur | the oberoi Udaivilas Day 11-13: BISALPUR | Jawai Day 14: Jodhpur | Umaid Bhawan Palace Day 15-16: Jaisalmer | Suryagarh day 17-19: Ladakh | Chamba camp Day 20-22: Mumbai | The Oberoi, Mumbai
46
K ER & DOW NEY
Contact Ker & Downey or your travel specialist to include the Ultimate Travelling Camp in your next custom journey +1 800-423-4236 | kerdowney.com
north america
Un i ted States
n e w yo r k Take a private helicopter tour over New York City.
h awa i i Learn to surf on Oahu’s famous North Shore.
48
K ER & DOW NEY
Photo courtesy of Nashville Convention & Visitors Corp
nashville Visit RCA Studio B, where stars like Dolly Parton and Elvis once recorded their hit albums.
a r i zo n a Embark on a private guided drive and hike along the Grand Canyon South Rim.
new orleans Mix cocktails in New Orleans with a celebrity bartender.
A l a s ka Embark on bear viewing excursions along the Katmai Coast.
KER & DOWNEY
49
north america
top A ll - A m e r ican E x p e r i e nc e s
From sea to shining sea, the United States of America is a giant tapestry of beauty and wonder just waiting to be explored. Here are our Top All-American Experiences.
A laska
1
50
K ER & DOW NEY
P rince W illiam S ound , A laska A private glacier cruise along Prince William Sound takes you up Blackstone Bay to the sheer cliff walls, tumbling waterfalls, and tidewater glaciers of Alaska’s southern coast. Enjoy a snack of fresh Alaskan fish and have your camera ready as you cruise up to a thousand-strong bird rookery and step ashore onto the natural geology of this glacier-carved fjord.
C al i for n i a
3
S onoma Valley
Taste your way through Sonoma County’s wineries on a tour through a hand-picked selection of private vineyards and tasting rooms. Known as the birthplace of the California wine industry, the Sonoma Valley is home to some of the earliest vineyards and wineries in the country.
2
4
C oastal H ighway 1
Set out on America’s dream drive along California’s Pacific Coast Highway. This cliff-hung roadway winds 1,000 miles along the state’s Pacific boundary and threads through breathtaking wild coastal beaches and hidden natural masterpieces. Along the way, visit John Steinbeck’s historic Cannery Row, stop for beachcombing at Pt. Reyes National Seashore, and walk through the Armstrong Redwoods, some of the tallest trees in the world.
I ditarod T rail
Alaska’s historic Iditarod Trail plays host to the annual Iditarod Great Sled Race—dubbed the “Last Great Race on Earth.” From the comfort of Winterlake Lodge, experience the trail by both land and air, taking your own dog sled out on the course and following the trail’s epic landscapes of high mountain vistas and deep ocean fjords in a private helicopter.
KER & DOWNEY
51
u tah
5
Z ion M ountain R anch Get back to nature at Zion Mountain Ranch, a country cabin resort at the entrance of Zion National Park. Watch the herds of buffalo roam through the open plains and mountain forests, dine on the bountiful joys of the Utah soil, and indulge in late-night s’mores around the campfire, gazing into the magical expanse of stars above.
6
M onument Valley
Explore Navajo Nation’s Monument Valley, a series of sandstone masterpieces towering at heights of up to 1,000 feet and one of the most photographed places on earth. Your Navajo guide will lead you to some of the valley’s sacred sites and cliff dwellings, many of which are only open to the native Navajos and their guests.
W yom i ng
7
S nake R iver Float down the Snake River near Jackson Hole, Wyoming. Whether a leisurely flat-water float or an action-packed whitewater adventure, a journey down the Snake River affords up-close encounters with the majestic Teton Mountain Range, the limestone cliffs of Snake River Canyon, and the horizon of Grey’s National Forest.
a r i zona
8
M ii A mo S pa
Embark on a life-enhancing journey at Mii Amo Spa at Enchantment Resort. This 24,000-square-foot oasis is infused with the rich traditions of the Native American people and the striking energy of Sedona’s legendary Red Rocks, a setting of vermillion cliffs that consistently leaves its visitors wowed by its beauty. -Elizabeth Frels
O u r S u gg e s t e d I t i n e r a ry:
ma jesti c masterpieces: Am e r ic a’ s N at ion a l Pa r ks in St y le
9 days / 8 nig hts t hr oug h Yosem i t e , th e G r a n d C a n yo n , & Jac ks o n H o l e KER & DOWNEY
53
latin america
Argentina
Cuba
N i c a r ag ua
Belize
Ecuador &
Pa n a m a
Brazil
The
Peru
Chile
G a l a pa g o s
U r u g u ay
Co lo m b i a
Islands
C o s ta R i c a
G u at e m a l a
peru Connect to the soul of the Sacred Valley in luxury: the pure air and spirit of the ancient area is enhanced by a private villa and personal yoga instructor.
co lo m b i a Charter a luxury skippered yacht along the Caribbean coast of Colombia to see the country’s many colonial jewels. 54
K ER & DOW NEY
argentina Partake in a private tango class before being whisked away to a secret locals-only milonga in Buenos Aires.
c ub a Enjoy a chauffeured drive along Havana’s Malecon in a classic car before visiting a Cuban garage to see how these old cars are restored and repaired.
g uat e m a l a Soar in a private helicopter to a hidden Mayan archaeological site for an exclusive glimpse at its treasures with the chief excavator.
u r u g uay Discover the complexities of Uruguay’s finest olive oils with a private visit, tasting, and harvest activity at the awardwinning Colinas de Garzón. KER & DOWNEY
55
l at i n a m e r i c a
S oph i s t icat e d
S an t i ago Before exploring Chile’s boundless natural wonders, get lost in the history, culture, and delectable cuisine of its cosmopolitan hub. By Maya Vandenberg
The end of Augusto Pinochet’s dictatorship launched Santiago’s slow process of rebuilding, and within a few years its neighborhoods began to enjoy a renaissance that continues today. Meander through the cobblestoned streets of Barria Lastarria long a home to architects, artists, and actors. This creative epicenter plays host to the Museum of Fine Arts, the Museum of Visual Arts, and the Gabriela Mistral Center. Thursday through Sunday, stroll the pedestrian-only area between the streets of Merced and Rosal to experience the antique and used book market. Three museums are dedicated to Chile’s literary pride and joy, Literature Nobel Laureate Pablo Neruda, and all three are housed in his former residences. In the bohemian Barrio Bellavista, don’t miss La Chascona, which was built for Neruda’s clandestine lover (who eventually became his third wife), Matilde Urrutia. The moniker La Chascona was a reference to her wild mane of curly red hair, and a portrait by Diego Riviera depicting Urrutia with two heads and a profile of Neruda hidden in her hair still graces the house today. Chile’s extensive coastline means an abundance of seafood. Cast iron-roofed Mercado Central, which was declared a national monument in 1984, is a hive of activity where the locals shop and gather alike, Mercado Central offers the largest and most diverse stock of products—from seafood to local fruit to meat. Explore the perimeters for local, low-key food stalls. Look out for caldillo de congrio, a rich fish stew made with red conger for which Pablo Neruda wrote an ode.
56
K ER & DOW NEY
Photos courtesy of Singular Santiago | Borangó
F ounded in 1 5 4 1 by S paniard P edro de Valdivia , Chile’s treelined capital sits in a valley surrounded by the imposing Andes Mountains. A 1973 coup heralded an era of dark military-controlled days, which began to clear with the election of a democratic leader in 1990. The urban center has emerged as a lively and modern city where past and present collide.
C hilean cuisine melds old traditions and indigenous in gredients with E uropean influence and preparation . The innovative Boragó, helmed by native Chilean Rodolfo Guzman features an ever-changing menu based on the success of any given day’s foraging and availability of regional products from the Andes to Patagonia. Taking a similar seasonal, sustainable and market-led approach with a menu that changes on the daily, Chef Carolina Bazán Bañados is the driving force behind Ambrosía in the Vitacura district. Celebrate Chile’s indigenous dishes and ancestral pre-Hispanic culture with a meal at Peumayén, where the techniques and ingredients showcase the gastronomic evolution of native food. Oenophiles should put Bocanáriz on their list. Highlighting the best the New World hot spot has to offer, Bocanáriz boasts an impressive collection of over 400 bottles of Chilean wine along with a menu designed to enhance the flavor profiles of the wines. Here, eating is really just an excuse to keep drinking. A trip to the neighboring wine regions is a must as wine making is endemic to Chile and its economy. Try the Maipo, Chile’s oldest wine-producing region, or Casablanca, Chile’s first cool-climate coastal region that churns out fantastic sauvignon blanc and chardonnay. From trendy to traditional, Santiago’s hotel scene offers an array of choices for every traveler. Located in the artsy Lastarria area and blending neoclassical French architecture with 20th-century modernity, the boutique Singular Santiago offers crisply designed interiors, a restaurant that serves up seasonally inspired French fare with local touches, and the rooftop pool and bar that flaunts stunning views of the city and nearby Parque Forestal. Situated in the prestigious El Golf neighborhood, is the luxurious Ritz-Carlton Santiago. The classically styled hotel has 205 rooms and suites, four onsite dining options, and an enormous rooftop spa and fitness center. Take a dip in the heated indoor pool and Jacuzzi with views of the Andes Mountains through floor-to-ceiling windows. Take in the city’s turgid history, and visit the Plaza de Armas, Santiago’s main square and where the stunning Catedral Metropolitana de Santiago is located, and La Moneda Presidential Palace, the presidential palace that served as the former Chilean mint. Wander the lovely green spaces that dot the city, including the Mapocho River-adjacent Parque Forestal with its shaded pedestrian walkways and the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes within, and Cerro San Cristóbal, which boasts the second highest point in Santiago. Climb to the top to take in a 360-degree view of the metropolis and Andes Mountains. Photos: Opposite page: Bar Merced 294 at Singular Santiago; Top right: The innovative Boragó restaurant; Above: The sun setting on Santiago's Plaza de Armas KER & DOWNEY
57
l at i n a m e r i c a
How to Do
Peru
Martine Bury embarks on a voyage through South America’s most exquisite destination, Ker & Downey style.
The Coolest Capital F rom above , L ima is a dense , random jumble of modern high rises , colorful S panish colonial architecture , and crumbling pre - C olumbian temples flanked by imposing cliffs that hold back the rolling waves of the Pacific O cean . 58
K ER & DOW NEY
Photo courtesy of iStock | Museo Mario Testino
We begin our journey in the bohemian Barranco district with a stay at Hotel B. Built in 1914 for a wealthy family, the historic manor house shines in crisp white from its corner position— a stone’s throw from the city’s best surfing beach. The check-in process is gracious, delivering us upstairs, past bright yellow and pastel blue walls lined floor-to-ceiling with a mix of surreal, modern, and colonial period artworks, to our guestroom. One of 17, it’s the sexiest suite I’ve ever seen. The layering of fabrics, antiques, and art books—between a soaring ceiling and original wide-planked floors—takes my breath away. Downstairs a series of intimate nooks comprise the dining room, library, and bar spaces where guests enjoy menus curated by famed Chef Oscar Velarde or indulge in “el lonche,” Peru’s decadent high tea ritual. At every turn, Barranco offers excellent art galleries, hip eateries, cool coffee shops, bars, and boutiques. We walk past stately 19th century homes in various stages of restoration; enter La Catedral, the neighborhood's main Catholic cathedral; walk along the Bajada de los Baños to view the beach and the sea; and traverse the romantic Puente de Los Suspiros (Bridge of Sighs). My favorite part is a private tour of MATE—Museo Mario Testino, the showpiece, nonprofit art space belonging to the famed Peruvian fashion photographer.
Photos: Above: Sunset over the coastal town of Lima; Right: Museo Mario Testino in Barranco
Before we experience world-class culinary bites at Pedro Miguel Schiaffino’s Malabar, Gastón Acurio’s Astrid y Gastón, or Virgilio Martínez's Central—we go to the roots. So the morning begins with a guided walk through Lima’s organic farmers market with a food historian. Early in the day is also the best time to grab a seafood breakfast—catch-of-the-day ceviche at Terminal Pesquero, the city’s largest fish market. We’re whisked to the outskirts of Lima to the by-appointment-only, sustainable farm of Alfonso Roda Marrou, visionary owner of Don Torcuato in Pachacamac. He produces organic fruits, leafy greens, edible flowers, and vegetables for the region’s top chefs. Terroir is a word usually associated with wine, meaning taste of the land. Here, Marrou urges us to dig, pick, and taste the earth’s bounty—inspiring our honest appreciation and respect for these fertile grounds. It feels like the appropriate homage to the ancient Andean culture that worships Pachamama—goddess of fertility, planting, and harvesting—above all. After pulling yucca from the dirt and clipping our salad, Marrou’s family dishes out a simple, memorable lunch of rotisserie chicken and herb-fried potatoes. A stop at glamorous, 1920's era Country Club Lima Hotel in upscale San Isidro rounds out an afternoon of eating our way through the capital. One of the country’s most esteemed Pisco sommeliers guides us through the history of Peru’s national, grape-based spirit. We take a seat at the hotel’s Bar Ingles, helmed by bartender Roberto Meléndez, whose father served up the original Pisco sours at Hotel Maury in the 1940's. We sample a boozy array of traditional cocktails like pineappleinfused Pisco Punch and my favorite, fizzy ginger ale and bitters-based Chilcano.
KER & DOWNEY
59
Guest rooms are cheery and luxe, painted fuschia, ochre yellow, bright peach, or electric blue, and decorated with collected things like folk art and textiles crafted by local artisans. We return to our big, comfy bed, turned-down for dreaming. I do just that.
The Inca Heritage A short flight and winding drive lands us in the Sacred Valley to acclimate before ascending to Cusco. Peru’s secrets are kept in this maze of rural life and ancient Inca ruins, sheltered by the Rio Urubamba Foothills. We tuck into the contemporary Tambo Del Inka, a Luxury Collection Resort & Spa, which boasts its own private train station for the journey to Machu Picchu. The hotel’s minimalist design captures the region’s peaceful vibe, spurring us to go out and experience everything we can. We pass hours on a guided bike ride through unchanged Andean villages, where for miles we see only mountain peaks, all stripes of grazing sheep and indigenous women in their heavy, bright woven shawls, long skirts, and smart montera hats. After an excellent picnic, we partake in a private blessing ceremony with a shaman.
The not-so-secret secret of traveling to Machu Picchu is to take the Belmond Hiram Bingham Train. There’s a world of natural wonder on the multiday Inca Trail pilgrimage, but this rail ride is a posh party, roundtrip. Lounging in a coach decked in polished wood and brass, we meet the neighbors and enjoy formal meals on crisp white linens. We take in waterfall and forest views as we cut through the mountains, arriving, awestruck, at the famous UNESCO World Heritage Site—the mysterious Inca citadel perched on a peak almost 8,000 feet high. On the return, we venture to the Bar Car surprised to find ourselves in the midst of raging revelry in a tiny space with a band playing traditional Peruvian songs on flute, guitar, and cajon.
Days of adventure require rest. We check into Sol y Luna, a complex of stone casitas surrounded by colorful flower gardens and trees that reach for the sky. Exploring the grounds we discover the adjacent stables with friendly equine residents, Peruvian caballos de Paso. It’s a moonlit evening—so bright the night sky is still quite blue. Our dinner at the hotel restaurant is long and relaxed, beginning with ceviche followed by a parade of dishes that flaunt the local produce. Weekly, Sol y Luna offers a festive, barbeque-style dinner near the stables. Everything about the Sacred Valley coexists in harmony at this enchanting oasis, and staying here is an opportunity to dogood, as the property’s Association Sol y Luna provides education for local children.
60
K ER & DOW NEY
The next couple of nights are spent in Cusco, the capital of the Inca Empire, which is packed with cosmopolitan diversions—acclaimed eateries, wine bars, and 5-star hotels. Wandering the city, I fall in love with the old monasteries, the town squares, the ornate doors of giant cathedrals, and the occasional llama. Home base is Palacio Del Inka, A Luxury Collection Hotel, a richly restored 15th century palace close to Plaza del Armas. Known for it’s world-class spa and elegant piano bar, it’s the perfect retreat in this tourist-filled town.
The Amazon Expedition Getting to Iquitos is a bit of an inconvenience. It’s more like a mission. Only accessible by plane or river travel, Peru’s bustling jungle hub is full of contradictions. Fancy hotels and elegant bars and humble shacks are huddled together—flanked by the mighty Amazon River and thick canopy. Mopeds speed by as locals go about their business and visitors look for the next adventure—ziplining or shopping strange, amazing open-air markets. It’s the hustle of life, but it moves slowly.
"On the river, there are moments that make my heart stop..."
Spellbound by our journey from the moment we leave the airport and throughout the escorted drive to the wild riverside, the big reveal of Aria Amazon ups the ante. Outfitted with 16 river-facing suites, Aqua Expeditions’ cruise ship takes us to the heart of the Pacaya Samaria Reserve where we embark on smaller vessels after early breakfast and before cocktails each night to spy black caiman, rare pink dolphins, sloths, and elusive jaguars. We never see the big cat, but our intrepid guide does scoop a baby anaconda for us to meet firsthand. On the river, there are moments that make my heart stop—when a hundreds-strong flock of white herons chase our speedboat; when we canoe with indigenous women to dive into the Blackwater (the one place in the river with a pH safe enough to swim); and when the students of a school near the riverbank sing to us. Couple that with starry nights on-deck and gourmet meals by Executive Chef Pedro Miguel Schiaffino, centered on local paiche fish and the weird, wonderful fruits of this river region. It’s hard to imagine, at the end of these two weeks, that we’ve only begun to scratch the surface in Peru. We know we will be back for more. KER & DOWNEY
61
l at i n a m e r i c a
i t i n e r a ry
Peruvian Splendors
8 DA Y S / 7 NI G HTS Discover the essence of luxury Peru on this unforgettable Ker & Downey week-long itinerary visiting Lima, the Sacred Valley of the Incas, and Cusco. The epitome of your luxury Peru journey is your exclusive-use villa in the Sacred Valley and your luxury train ride through the Andes to the magical Lost Citadel of Machu Picchu. 62
K ER & DOW NEY
S u g g e st e d J O U R N E Y at a g lan c e : Day 1: lima | Country Club Lima Hotel Day 2-4: Sacred Valley | Casa Puyuncuy Day 5: Machu Picchu | Inkaterra Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel Day 6-8: Cusco | Belmond Hotel Monasterio
Contact Ker & Downey or your travel specialist to include Inkaterra in your next custom journey. + 1 8 0 0 - 4 2 3 - 4 2 3 6 | k e r d ow n e y.co m
northern & Western
europe n o r way Board a private sailboat for a stunning, personalized safari through the Arctic Circle.
S c ot l a n d Escape to an exclusive, invitation-only Highlands castle for a charming, countryside stay at one of the most prestigious private clubs in the world. 64
K ER & DOW NEY
Austr i a
Gr een la n d
n ether la n ds
B elgi um
Icela n d
Norway
den ma r k
Ir ela n d
scotla n d
en gla n d
Latvi a
Sweden
Eston i a
li echten stei n
Swi tzer la n d
fi n la n d
Li thua n i a
wa les
Fr a n ce
Luxembour g
Ger ma n y
Mon aco
france
sw i t z e r l a n d
Indulge in a wine and history-laden journey through the Canal du Midi aboard your personal river barge, a vessel commissioned by the Sun King Louis XIV himself.
Travel to an authentic alpine chalet near Gstaad for a private cheese making experience with a local farmer.
s pa i n Participate in a private printing and plaster casting workshop, then enjoy a gourmet lunch and private flamenco show at the illustrious Royal Academy of the Arts of San Fernando.
iceland Set out on a private quad bike tour amid the beautiful volcanic landscapes of southern Iceland before stopping for a traditional Icelandic lunch in a secret cave. KER & DOWNEY
65
europe
M u s t - Do E x p e r i e nc e s on
the Emerald Isle Ireland has long held a reputation for being a land of enchantment. And rightfully so—the secondlargest of the British Isles boasts generous people, rolling green landscapes, magnificent castles, riveting ancient history, and world famous culture. Get up close and personal with a tailor-made Ker & Downey tour that is full of flavor.
2
Gain special access to the Irish National Stud Between its legendary K Club golfing green, exciting thoroughbred racetracks, and stunning Japanese Gardens, County Kildare is an essential inclusion on your journey, especially when the owner of the Irish National Stud is on hand to provide behind-the-scenes access to the facility’s tranquil, monastic-style gardens and fascinating Stud Farm. You might even catch a glimpse of a new foal, as well as resident mares, stallions, weanlings, yearlings, and retired national hunt Living Legends.
1
Stay in an original manor house For the ultimate country getaway, cozy up in one of the Emerald Isle’s many private manor homes. Brimming with warmth, charm, and luxury, these stunning accommodations freckle the Irish countryside. For the best of the best tuck into Ballyvolane Country House, a humble 18th-century home turned award-winning boutique hotel in County Cork. This quirky Georgian manor is the perfect place for combining the creature comforts of home alongside the more unique pursuits of countryside glamping, gin distillery tastings, and salmon sport fishing.
Photos courtesy of Ballyvolane Country House | Dunbrody Country House | Irish National Stud | iStock | Guiness Storefront | BrookLodge Hotel & Macreddin Village
4
3
Sail down the River Shannon One of the most magnificent private yachts on the planet floats on the waters of the River Shannon in County Clare. Hop aboard and sail through the waterways and inlets of this region, participating in creative, exhilarating activities that highlight Irish history, art, architecture, food, and drink. Indulge in a fresh seafood lunch onboard; picnic on the manicured lawns of grand estates and castle grounds; enjoy private painting sessions with local artists; and stop for a gin tasting onshore.
Taste the Black Stuff like a connoisseur Any local will tell you: no visit to Dublin is complete without a visit to the Guinness Storehouse. Indeed, tourists descend upon the legendary St. James’s Gate Brewery to sample the world famous stout, a national symbol of Ireland. Bypass the crowds with a private tour and intimate Guinness Connoisseur tasting session in a private bar within the brewery. Next elevate your palate and travel to four of Dublin’s quintessential pubs, each selected for their throwback character and unique history. Along the way, sample a range of Irish Whiskeys— including some of the lesser known with the most deep-seated heritage.
5
Become a Wild Foods master Blessed with a range of organic and wild foods, BrookLodge Hotel & Macreddin Village has earned its reputation as the county’s Food Village. In this truly hidden treasure in the southern foothills of the Wicklow Mountains, enjoy a tantalizing meal at the Strawberry Tree—the only certified organic restaurant in Ireland—and take the Wild Foods Masterclass with the restaurant’s chefs. Learn about the seasonality of the region’s natural bounty; participate in traditional gathering, cooking, and preserving techniques; and forage along the Irish hedgerows, fields, and woods around Macreddin Village to create your very own Wild Foods dish.
6
Cook with a local celebrity chef There are many reasons to love Dunbrody Country House Hotel. The onsite pub is packed with local people and underground vibes. The surrounding 300 acres of parkland offer front row seats to the bucolic charms of Hook Peninsula. And the food is to die for. Which makes sense because the hotel is co-owned by Kevin Dundon, a celebrity TV chef. His award-winning restaurant and the Dunbrody Cookery School offer a range of memorable activities for culinary enthusiasts, whether you’re a budding foodie or an experienced gourmand. —Elizabeth Frels
O u r S u gg e s t e d I t i n e r a ry:
Exc lusi ve Ireland
8 days / 7 n i g hts t hr oug h Bel fast, W i c k low Co u n ty, & G a lway KER & DOWNEY
67
e a s t e r n & S o ut h e r n
europe
a lba n i a
geor gi a
r oma n i a
a r men i a
Gr eece
r ussi a
Azer ba i ja n
hun ga ry
Ser bi a
B osn i a &
Ita ly
slova ki a
Her zegovi n a
Ma lta
Sloven i a
bulga r i a
Mon ten egr o
Spa i n
Cr oati a
pola n d
Tur key
czech r epubli c
Portuga l
ukr a i n e
Greece Discover the prettiest harbors, quietest beaches, and the best off-thebeaten-path snorkeling waters of Mykonos from your private boat.
Ita ly Set out with a personal shopper to shop for the latest international designs at Milan’s most prestigious ateliers' storefronts.
Ru s s i a
Romania
Go behind the curtain at St. Petersburg’s legendary Mariinsky Theatre to witness the technical precision required for each production.
Experience the infamous Bran Castle of Dracula with a private, afterhours dinner inside the imposing castle walls.
M a lta Pair your stay in an exclusive-use palazzo with a private tour and organ recital at St. John’s Co-Cathedral.
Georgia Bathe in the waters that give Tbilisi its name in a VIP room at a centuries-old bath house.
KER & DOWNEY
69
europe
Italian
Idyll
Nell Casey takes her family to Puglia and makes the case for why you should go now—before this true gem bordering the Adriatic and Ionian Seas becomes a trendy destination.
A pulia — or P uglia , as it is better known — is a region in the heel of the boot of I taly with immaculate beaches and Baroque architecture that has long been considered a well - kept secret by locals .
70
K ER & DOW NEY
Our trip—I was accompanied by my husband and two children—began by flying into the capital city of Bari and immediately driving south to Polignano a Mare. (Though Bari is also worth a visit, our time and itinerary didn’t allow for it.) On the way, we pulled off the highway to eat lunch at the elegant Da Tuccino, having been tipped off by a Roman friend that this was a not-to-be-missed culinary experience. And she was right: we ate spaghetti con le cozze while sitting on the terrace overlooking the beach and the Adriatic, feeling triumphant for having started our vacation so brilliantly. Afterwards, we settled into Borgobianco, a lovely resort in the hills of Polignano. With its white buildings and white decor, it certainly lives up to its name. In fact all of Puglia lives up to this name. The houses are white, the sand is white, even the entire town of Polignano a Mare is carved out of limestone—but always with a peek of bright color from the bougainvillea climbing the walls and the oleander lining the road. Polignano is a wonderful town—tiny and amiable— built into the cliffs above the sea. We immediately found ourselves lost within the winding streets— peeking into the enchanting church of Santa Maria Assunta along the way—until we emerged on a balconied promenade with a panoramic view of the sea. As we took in the landscape, an appealing Italian scene played out around us: kids were kicking a soccer ball in the piazza, men were fishing by the water, up the street someone jubilantly shouted out a greeting to a friend: “Ciao Marco!” But perhaps the best signifier of Polignano’s cheery charisma is
its famous one-time resident: Domenico Modugno, who wrote and sang the iconic Italian song Volare. Our next stop was Monopoli, a fishing village just a short drive south of Polignano. On our way to Il Melograno—an exquisite hotel converted from a 16th-century farmhouse—we stopped at another restaurant on the beach: Lido Bianco. (Yes, bianco; it’s a well-acknowledged theme.) We had quickly learned it is best to plan for a long lunch in Puglia as the towns basically shut down from 1:00 p.m. – 4:00 p.m. every day. This is hardly a burden: The meals—especially the seafood—are outstanding. We ate on the outdoor rooftop terrace with a postcardlike view of pristine white sailboats gliding along turquoise water. The restaurant also overlooks a strip of beach that seemed so appealing, we found ourselves, despite the fact that none of us had our bathing suits, wading in the water and building sandcastles after lunch. Early in the evening, we went to the historic center of Monopoli for a family passeggiata. The setting sun offered gorgeous light by which to see the many and varied cathedrals. This port city has constantly changed hands—from the Byzantines to the Normans to the Venetians, among others—through the ages. Much of the town still tells this story: From the Greek influence of its name (derived from Monòpolis) to the 16th century fortifications built to protect the city from Muslim pirates—the old cannons still sit along the walls—to the Castle of Charles the V, built in 1525, which now hosts art exhibitions and cultural events.
What's Now: M ass e r i a L e C a r r u b e , O s t u n e Tucked in Puglia's stunning little town of Ostuni, the "White City," this working farmhouse is a study in whitewashed stone and weathered honey hues. Cavernous guestrooms (16 rooms, 4 suites), a vegetarian restaurant, two sparkling pools, and a roof terrace with panoramic sea views make the region's newest hotspot a must-stay.
Photos clockwise from top left: Huts in Alberobello; Artistic details at Masseria Prosperi; A room at the boutique hotel, Masseria Prosperi; The Farm at Masseria Prosperi 72
K ER & DOW NEY
We spent the next day in Alberobello, the UNESCO-protected trulli capital of Puglia. Trulli are small white stone huts with conical roofs believed to date back to the 14th century—they look as if they’ve been modeled after spinning tops. Alberobello has become a well-trod sightseeing stop and, as a result, many of the trulli now mostly house souvenir shops. One of the great pleasures of Puglia is that, while there are plenty of beautiful sights, there are no obligatory cultural stops—no Coliseum, no Caravaggios. So it was a bit disappointing to suddenly find ourselves in the thick of the tourists of Alberobello, being herded from one trullo to the next, despite the odd allure of these little homes. We capped our trip at the Masseria Prosperi, a unique hotel in Frassanito, in the Salento, a region with its own distinct personality that encapsulates the peninsula at the very southern tip of Puglia. The Prosperi was a lovely surprise: It is a sixroom hotel that feels more like you’re visiting that cool artist friend who ran off to become an ex-pat. Meals are communal affairs—families gather in the living room for a drink and then move on to the terrace for a home-cooked meal. Meanwhile, the children swim—either in the glass-encased indoor pool or the gorgeous outdoor pool—and play with the farm animals milling about the property. Prosperi also makes a good jumping off point for day trips. We spent one day in Otranto—a coastal village best known for its cathedral, Santa Cesarea di Terme, and the 12th-century Tree of Life mosaic, one of the largest in Europe, that lines its floor. Another day, we toured Gallipoli, where fisherman haul their fresh catches— such as the spiky ricci di mare with the velvety orange roe within—and sell them on the beach.
L astly, we visited L ecce , referred to as “ F lor ence of the S outh , ” and with good reason . T he Baroque architecture is spectacular , particu larly the Basilica di S anta C roce , begun in the 1 4 th century but not completed until 16 9 5. T he grand faç ade — decorated with animals , gro tesques , and a central rose window — stopped me in my tracks . And we discovered yet another beloved restaurant in Lecce: Le Zie Trattoria. This hole-in-the-wall, where you must ring a bell to enter, is internationally known for its commitment to traditional local dishes using only ingredients from Salento, such as handmade orecchiette, fave e cicoria (beans and chicory), and pezzetti di cavallo—um, pieces of horse. There is a high risk of spending too much time in the car when traveling a region as large as Puglia. The masserie tend to be in secluded areas—which adds to their attraction but also makes it an effort to get to the nearest town. The best way to avoid this is to mix things up, staying part of the time in a hotel in one of the historic centers. My choice would be Lecce—not only is it breathtakingly beautiful but it is also a bit bigger and offers more to explore. My best advice, however, is hardly to move at all, taking everything in at the composed pace of the Pugliese, and watch the sea roll back once more from the shore.
KER & DOWNEY
73
europe
i t i n e r a ry
S e c r e t s o f N o r t h e r n I t a ly
7 DA Y S / 6 NI G HTS Ker & Downey presents the Secrets of Northern Italy, a journey that uncovers some of the best art, fashion, and natural beauty Il Bel Paese has to offer. Explore fashionable and historic Milan before heading into the stunning scenery of Lake Como, a legendary luxury retreat.
74
K ER & DOW NEY
S u g g e st e d J O U R N E Y at a g lan c e : Day 1-3: Milan | Armani Hotel Milano Day 4-7: Lake Como | Grand Hotel Tremezzo
www.grandhoteltremezzo.com
Contact Ker & Downey or your travel specialist to include Grand Hotel Tremezzo in your next custom journey + 1 8 0 0 - 4 2 3 - 4 2 3 6 | k e r d ow n e y.co m
south pacific new zealand Join a golf pro and take a private technical lesson at Kauri Cliffs.
new zealand Catch wild trout while flyfishing from exclusive Huka Lodge.
76
K ER & DOW NEY
Austr a li a Fi ji Fr en ch Polyn esi a New Zea la n d Pa pua New Gui n ea
au s t r a l i a Explore the sights of Sydney from your own private yacht.
AU S T RALIA
AU S T RALIA
Discover Daintree National Park, the world’s oldest rainforest, with a skilled aboriginal guide.
Have dinner at Table 131° at sunset and watch the changing colors of Ayers Rock as day turns to night.
KER & DOWNEY
77
s o ut h pac i f i c
Superlative
Stays
A well - curated super lodge itinerary on N ew Z ealand ’ s S outh and North islands offers high lu x ury and adventure across big skies , swaths of green grass dotted with sheep, and deeper green A lpine forests . T he only things as magnificent are the places where we lay our heads .
78
K ER & DOW NEY
Photos courtesy of Matakauri Lodge
New Zealand’s ultra lodges are better when experienced together.
Nestled up to the shore of Lake Wakatipu, sophisticated and cozy Eichardt’s Private Hotel offers easy entry to the vibrant center of Queenstown. It’s the kind of place where the barista makes my latte just how I like it on our second morning there. Full of grace, the 10-suite property is also the perfect launching point into the action, which is aplenty in New Zealand’s adventure capital. Within strolling distance, my husband and I find ample diversions that provide immersion among friendly Kiwis and stellar scenic views of the Remarkables mountain range. We move on up to Bob’s Peak on the Gondola, the steepest aerial lift in the Southern Hemisphere; strap in for light rafting on the Shotover River; and queue for a Fergburger, New Zealand’s most sought-after bite. In this Mecca for adrenaline addicts, opportunities abound from jetboats, luge, and bungee to the Shotover Canyon and Nevis swings—the world’s highest cliff jumps. In the winter, skiing is the elegant way to experience the the Remarkables and Coronet Peak. Lucky for us we are hotel people— so we find joy in every detail at Eichardt’s from our room’s crackling fireplace to the yummy tapas and super chic scene at cozy Eichhardt’s Bar. Each morning, we peer out our lake-facing suite window for a quick weather visual. It’s sunny out but a planned heli tour of Milford Sound—the South Island’s most famous fjord in Fiordland National Park—is postponed due to an unfavorable forecast (which happens on this island of many microclimates). We wait two days for Mother Nature to give us an opening. It isn’t meant to be. Instead our pilot takes us over Lake Wanaka, through a rainforest and past snow-covered terrain for a gourmet lunch at Minaret Station Lodge. Tucked in a private valley in the sweeping Southern Alps, the family-run lodge offers upscale glamping in 50,000 acres of wilderness, with well-appointed tented suites and Jacuzzi-outfitted decks.
The main lounge at Matakarui Lodge
A ten - minute drive from the center of Queenstown , M atakau r i Lod g e is a petite , private hideaway located on an unspoiled , wooded stretch of L ake Wakatipu. Opened in 2010 by American hedge fund billionaire turned hospitality maverick Julian Robertson, the property quietly blends sleek luxury with spectacular natural surroundings. Common areas, the four-bedroom Owner’s Cottage, and 11 spacious guest suites all boast unobstructed vistas of the placid water and whitepeaked mountain range. The moody colors on the lake—and cloud formations atop Cecil’s Peak— dramatically shift from minute to minute. It’s the stuff of Maori legend. The focus on intimacy, lodgers can opt to mix and mingle at pre-dinner drinks, but the dining space is by choice. Chef Jonathan Rogers’ locally sourced cuisine focuses on organic, seasonal produce. Though Matakauri is a gateway to exhilarating, life-altering experiences like river safaris and helicopter tours over Tukoko Glacier and Mitre Peak, the property’s spectacular location is everything. And the lodge’s hyper-luxury stems from a small staff-to-guest ratio that masterfully takes the impeccable service one expects at a place like this and makes it more personal and intuitive. The combination makes a big impression. Situated on the eastern shores of the South Island’s Tasman Bay, the Nelson bursts with creativity and natural beauty. From Abel Tasman National Park—with its emerald coves, sprawling forests and plentiful caves—to the art gallery lined streets in the city center; a few days’ exploration is a must in this sunny, coastal town. We wind past bungalow style houses perched on cliffs that hover over long, golden beaches and scores of boutique vineyards. Along the way, our driver takes us for a round of curated wine tastings.
By late afternoon we arrive at E de nhou s e , a lu x e little lodge slightly hidden in the rolling hills of the Orinoco Valley. New Zealand native Bobbie and her Australian husband Peter Martin own the property. They welcome us like old friends down for the weekend. The Martins have a deft sense of what’s needed at exactly the right time. When Peter finds out I’ve yet to try New Zealand’s famed green lip mussels, he discreetly calls into town so he can surprise me at supper. All of this happens in the unequaled setting of the Abel Tasman region’s bountiful fruit bowl. If there is a desire to venture away from this home away from home, the staff facilitates whatever level of exploration guests are ready for— from contemplative forest hikes to boat trips on Tasman Bay to helicopter tours that culminate in epic, multicourse mountain-top dinners. On the North Island’s east coast, Hawke’s Bay is a region of verdant hills and vast floodplains (and the five rivers that run through them) in close proximity to the ocean. Renting a car allows my husband and I to take in New Zealand’s oldest wine region as we whiz past a spread of vines that produce Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Chardonnay grapes.
F rom endless Pacific O cean views to a carefully curated collection of local wines , the best of ev erything about H awkes Bay comes together at Th e Fa r m at C ap e K i d napp e r s A 6,000-acre working sheep farm, the property’s 22 suites and lavish Owner’s cottage offer every luxury in spacious, light-filled accommodations. While I have my mind on the spa, my companion has his eye on the fairway. The property’s position on a jutting peninsula makes the Tom Doak-designed Cape Kidnappers Golf Course a linksman’s dream. Hanging over steep sandstone cliffs, the par 71 green has tamed these rugged hills. After a day of exploring the grounds—including the lodge’s Aviary—the dining room is a place to escape solitude and dig into meals that make the most of the Farm’s bountiful garden. As we eat, the somm takes us on a tour of New Zealand in perfect pairings. Places like this are made for long dinners, leisurely strolls, and pink sunsets over the sea.
80
K ER & DOW NEY
Photos clockwise from top: Endless Pacific ocean views at the Farm at Cape Kidnappers; Huka Lodge sits on the stunning Huka Falls; Quaint luxury lodge Edenhouse; Crisp river views delight the guest suite at Huka Lodge
A s one of the world ’ s preeminent hide aways , H u ka Lod g e is a dream destination . Photos courtesy the Farm at Cape Kidnappers | Huka Lodge
The road takes us through otherworldly scenery, with billowing steam rising out of the dense forests that flank our way. We pass massive Lake Taupo and the mighty Huka Falls, and arrive at the 25-room Huka, a genteel sportsman’s lodge. A retreat favored by the British Royal Family and A-List celebrities, a sense of hush-hush envelops the place. Only the sound of the rushing river disturbs the peace. Sitting on 17 acres, the property’s gardens are an active guest’s playground—from tennis and petanque to mountain biking and fishing in the Waikato River for local trout. A short walk delivers us to the viewing area for the awesome Huka Falls, plunging over a series of small dams in a wash of aqua blue and white water. For further adventure, the lodge offers offsite fun like heli-excursions, fly-fishing, horseback riding, and kayaking. The ultimate digs for creatures of comfort, accommodations wrap guests in layered luxury, like roaring fireplaces and soft tartan throw blankets. We dine in the main lodge building on English-style breakfast in the mornings and Executive Chef Paul Frogget’s five-course feasts at night. Through the French doors of our suite, the slow moving river entices me to sleep despite my effort to read. This is the lodge life. —Martine Bury
O u r S u gg e s t e d I t i n e r a ry:
Luxury Across New Z ealan d
15 days / 14 n i g hts t hr oug h Au c k l an d, tau p o, n e l s o n , m a r l b o r o u g h s o u n ds , christchurc h, f r a n z j osef & q u een stow n KER & DOWNEY
81
Established in a refrigeration plant-turned-national monument, the Singular Patagonia is strategically placed at the gateway to Chile's beautiful Patagonian fjords. A healthy mix of adventure, history, and relaxation awaits Singular's discerning visitors.
Contact Ker & Downey or your travel specialist to include the Singular Patagonia in your next custom journey. +1 800-423-4236 | kerdowney.com
journeys Ker & D ow ney 's Top I tinera ri es
KER & DOWNEY
83
l uxu ry c r u i s i n g
i t i n e r a ry
Mya n m a r E x p l o r e r
1 0 DA Y S / 9 NI G HTS Myanmar Explorer captures the breathtaking beauty and spiritual reflection innate of Myanmar. From Yangon and Bagan to Mandalay and Inle Lake, capture the region’s bygone mystery, ancient customs, and unique cultures by way of rivers, lakes, and hot air balloons.
84
K ER & DOW NEY
S u g g e st e d J O U R N E Y at a g lan c e : Day 1: Yangon | Belmond Governor’s Residence Day 2-4: Mandalay | Sanctuary Ananda day 5-8: Inle Lake | Inle Princess Resort Day 9-10: Yangon | Belmond Governor’s Residence
l uxu ry c r u i s i n g
i t i n e r a ry
Best of Peru
1 4 DA Y S / 1 3 NI G HTS This 14-day Peru luxury tour allows you to experience a little bit of everything in Peru: the beauty of Lima, the splendor of Lake Titicaca, the magic and wonder of Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley, the history of Cusco, and the magnificence of the Peruvian Amazon, all in unapologetic Ker & Downey luxury.
86
K ER & DOW NEY
S u g g e st e d J O U R N E Y at a g lan c e : Day 1-2: lima | country club lima hotel Day 3-4: sacred valley | sol y luna lodge & spa day 5: Machu Picchu | Inkaterra Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel Day 6-7: Cusco | Belmond Palacio Nazarenas Day 8-10: Lake Titicaca | Titilaka Day 11-13: Peruvian Amazon | Aria Amazon Day 14: Lima | Departure
Contact Ker & Downey or your travel specialist to include Aqua Expeditions in your next custom journey. +1 800-423-4236 | kerdowney.com
fa m i ly s a fa r i
i t i n e r a ry
g a l a p a g o s g e t a w ay
1 1 DA Y S / 1 0 NI G HTS Enjoy a fabulous ten-night journey through Quito and the Galapagos Islands, a perfect itinerary for those looking for a fully immersive and luxurious Galapagos getaway.
88
K ER & DOW NEY
S u g g e st e d J O U R N E Y at a g lan c e : Day 1-2: Quito | Casa Gangotena Day 3-9: Galapagos Islands | M/Y Grace Day 10-11: Guayaquil | Wyndham Guayaquil
honeymoon / romance
i t i n e r a ry
Island Honeymoon Escape
1 1 DA Y S / 1 0 NI G HTS White sand romance and secluded luxury define this once-in-a-lifetime private island honeymoon getaway. Allow Ker & Downey to whisk you away to some of the world’s last remaining untouched paradises for an indulgent and unforgettable journey.
90
K ER & DOW NEY
S u g g e st e d J O U R N E Y at a g lan c e : Day 1-4: Maldives | One&Only Reethi Rah Day 5-6: Dubai | One&Only The Palm Day 7-11: Seychelles | North Island
north island s e y c h e l l e s
Contact Ker & Downey or your travel specialist to include North Island in your next custom journey. +1 800-423-4236 | kerdowney.com
a dv e n tu r e
i t i n e r a ry
Pata g o n i a’ s G r e at O u t d o o r s
8 DA Y S / 7 NI G HTS Our Argentina horseback riding adventure spends eight days in Buenos Aires, the picturesque San Carlos de Bariloche, and San Martin de los Andes—some of the most scenic locations in the world.
92
K ER & DOW NEY
S u g g e st e d J O U R N E Y at a g lan c e : Day 1-2: Buenos Aires | Palacio Duhau-Park Hyatt buenos aires Day 3-4: San Carlos de Bariloche Llao Llao Hotel & Resort Day 5-8: San Martin | Tipiliuke Lodge
HAVE YOU ALREADY DISCOVERED YOUR LLAO LLAO SIDE? TODAY IS THE PERFECT DAY.
Contact Ker & Downey or your travel specialist to include Llao Llao in your next custom journey +1 800-423-4236 | kerdowney.com
www.llaollao.com.ar |
c u l i n a ry
i t i n e r a ry
Grand Argentine Escape
1 0 DA Y S / 9 NI G HTS This luxury journey through Argentina will delight all of your senses. Explore Buenos Aires and the surrounding region, sample the delicious wines of Mendoza, and find your spirit in the natural beauty of Bariloche.
S u g g e st e d J O U R N E Y at a g lan c e : Day 1-2: Buenos Aires | Palacio Duhau-Park Hyatt buenos aires Day 3: San Antonio de Areco La Bamba de Areco Day 4-6: Mendoza | Entre Cielos Day 7-10: San Carlos de Bariloche El Casco Art Hotel
94
K ER & DOW NEY
Contact Ker & Downey or your travel specialist to include Entre Cielos in your next custom journey +1 800-423-4236 | kerdowney.com
awa r d -w i n n i n g s a fa r i s
i t i n e r a ry S u g g e st e d J O U R N E Y at a g lan c e :
A B o t s wa n a L u x u r y S a fa r i
1 2 DA Y S / 1 1 NI G HTS Experience Botswana’s famed wildlife in luxury with daily game drives, mokoro rides, and sundowners, ultimately finishing your journey across the border at Zimbabwe’s stunning Victoria Falls.
Day 1: Johannesburg | The Saxon Day 2-3: Moremi Game Reserve Belmond Khwai River Lodge Day 4-6: Okavango Delta | Shinde Day 7-9: Savute Belmond Savute Elephant Lodge Day 10-12: Victoria Falls Victoria Falls Hotel
96
K ER & DOW NEY
DISCOVER REAL AFRICA Immerse yourself in pure authentic Africa as our local expert guides lead you to experiences and discoveries that few others access. Our three luxury tented safari lodges are located in the unspoiled and remote Northern Botswana wilderness. Each lodge is located in a completely different eco system offering a totally diverse range of breathtaking safari experiences. Belmond Savute Elephant Lodge in the Chobe National Park is often referred to as the elephant capital of the world, Belmond Khwai River Lodge is located in the game rich area of the Moremi Game Reserve, and the newly rebuilt Belmond Eagle Island Lodge is a tranquil water hideaway located in the heart of the Okavango Delta.
Contact Ker & Downey or your travel specialist to include Belmond Safaris in your next custom journey. +1 800-423-4236 | kerdowney.com
h o r s e b ac k j o u r n e ys
i t i n e r a ry
T h e Ok a v a n g o H o r s e S a f a r i
1 0 DA Y S / 9 NI G HTS This special Okavango Horse Safari itinerary pairs a fiveday Botswana horse safari with the iconic Shinde—two of the best the Okavango Delta has to offer.
S u g g e st e d J O U R N E Y at a g lan c e : Day 1: Johannesburg | The Saxon Day 2-4: Horseback Riding Day | Okavango Delta Kujwana Camp Day 5-6: Horseback Riding Day | Okavango Delta Mokolwane Camp Day 7-10: Okavango Delta | Shinde
98
K ER & DOW NEY
i t i n e r a ry
Trails of the Gaucho
1 2 DA Y S / 1 1 NI G HTS Channel your inner South American cowboy on this wholly unique journey, horseback riding through the Coxilha Rica landscape of Brazil.
S u g g e st e d J O U R N E Y at a g lan c e : Day 1: Florianรณpolis | Ponta Dos Ganchos Day 2-8: Horseback Riding Day | Coxilha Rica Gaucho do Brasil Day 9-12: Florianรณpolis | Ponta Dos Ganchos
KER & DOWNEY
5
c u ltu r a l
i t i n e r a ry S u g g e st e d J O U R N E Y at a g lan c e :
Wonders of India
1 4 DA Y S / 1 3 NI G HTS This 13-night itinerary is an unmatched wildlife safari experience, in which guests can experience the stunning and captivating natural parks of Central India and discover the Royal Bengal tiger’s natural habitat.
Day 1-2: Mumbai | The taj Mahal Palace Day 3-4: Pench | Baghvan Day 5-6: Kanha | Banjaar Tola Day 7-8: Bandhavgarh | Mahua Kothi Day 9: Panna National Park | Pashan Garh Wilderness Lodge Day 10-11: Delhi | The oberoi New Delhi Day 12: Agra | The oberoi Amarvilas Day 13-14: Delhi | The oberoi Gurgaon
100
K ER & DOW NEY
Contact Ker & Downey or your travel specialist to include Oberoi Hotels & Resorts in your next custom journey. +1 800-423-4236 | kerdowney.com
c u r at e d j o u r n e ys
i t i n e r a ry
N o r t h e r n S pa i n C u l i n a ry To u r
1 0 DA Y S / 9 NI G HTS Departing October 13, 2017, Ker & Downey's Northern Spain Culinary Tour embarks on a deep exploration through the world class art and architecture, fragrant wines, and Michelin-starred restaurants of Basque Country and CataluĂąa. 102
K ER & DOW NEY
S u g g e st e d J O U R N E Y at a g lan c e : Day 1-3: San Sebastian | Hotel Maria Cristina, A luxury collection hotel Day 4-5: Bidania | Iriarte Jauregia Day 6-9: Girona | Nord 1901 Hotel
Malaria kills more than
90%
one million people
e ac h y e a r , w i t h
seventy-five c h i l d r e n u nd e r 5 .
o f d e at h s o c c u r r i n g i n s ub - S a h a r a n A f r i c a .
percent
o f t h e s e d e at h s o c c u r i n
o u r g o al t o p r ov i d e
18,000 nets
to c o m m u n i t i e s to h e l p r e d u c e t h e r i s k
o f l i f e -t h r e at e n i n g d i s e a s e s
d o nat e F o r e v e r y n e t p u r c h a s e d K e r & d ow n e y w i l l d o n at e a n e t. D o n at e s e c u r e ly o n o u r w e b s i t e at k e r d ow n e y.c o m /g i v i n g - b ac k / n e t s - f o r -a f r i c a and Type
“Nets for Africa�
i n t h e s p e c i a l i n s t r u c t i o n s f i e l d.
together we can stop the sting of mosquito bites
Experiential. L u x u r y. t h e l u x u ry ma g a z in e f or w orld trav e l e rs
T r av e l .
Dolphin Island | Fiji
Forget group tours, long lines, or shared experiences; with Ker & Downey, everything is a completely tailored fit and our artist’s signature is threaded throughout. Let us offer you the opportunity for something rare and exotic, an exclusive journey that no one else can duplicate, and a one-of-a-kind adventure filled with the thrill of experience and the luxury of privacy. This is Ker & Downey.
k e r d o w n e y. c o m | i n f o @ k e r d o w n e y. c o m | 8 0 0 . 4 2 3 . 4 2 3 6
k e rdo w n e y. c om
c o n t a c t y o u r t r av e l p r o f e s s i o n a l o r v i s i t u s o n t h e w e b a t