Bespoke Magazine Vol. 4, Issue 2

THE LUXURY MAGAZINE FOR WORLD TRAVELERS

BESPOKE the

ASIA issue

4

DESIGN HOTELS of

INDIA PLUS

SPECIAL PHILANTHROPY REPORT

K&D’S MISSION TO MOZAMBIQUE

Cambodia Thailand China Laos

Be a world away while traveling there This is more than a flight, it’s a First Class sanctuary in the sky.

The bliss begins with complimentary Chauffeur-drive service,* expedited check-in and lounge privileges. Once onboard, close your doors with the click of a button to shut the world away and let our regionally inspired cuisine and on-demand entertainment help you float away.

*Available in select cities. Over 500 international awards and over 120 destinations worldwide. Discover frequent flyer benefits at skywards.com

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CONTENTS { BESPOKE MAGAZINE }

PHOTOGRAPHY SUPPLIED BY: FOUR SEASONS RESORT CHIANG MAI

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“The individual pavilions are scattered on twenty acres of teak forests and terraced rice fields...a relaxing retreat in the heart of Northern Thailand.”

CAMBODIA

MOZAMBIQUE

INDIA

AN ASIAN MEDLEY

MISSION TO MOZAMBIQUE

THE DESIGN HOTELS OF INDIA

We journey with the Niassa Lion Project and the Houston Zoo to the game-rich wilderness of northern Mozambique – a timeless landscape that persists in the face of modernization.

Spending the night in India has never looked so beautiful. Journey with Ker & Downey from the desert to Delhi and take a peek at our curated selection of ultra-lux hotels designed to inspire.

A city tour by helicopter. Cooking lessons in the home garden of a chef. Picnicking on a Gulf of Thailand private island… Come with us as we go beyond the typical in Southeast Asia.

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CONTENTS FEATURES ARGENTINA

SOUTHERN AFRICA

CHINA

SPRINGTIME IN ARGENTINA

THE ART OF AUTHENTICITY

THE SURREAL CHINA COUNTRYSIDE

Balance sweltering rainforests with towering glaciers as you tango your way through some of the best of Argentina. Ker & Downey’s Katy Heerssen shares her notes from the field.

Hidden in Zimbabwe and Botswana’s treasured reserves, African Bush Camps proves that an intimate, low-frills safari is still overflowing with plenty of tangible and soulful luxuries.

Hundreds of miles from the hum of traffic and tourists, the unexpected wonders of China take center stage. Go off the beaten path as we reveal a sweeping panorama of cultures and scenery.

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T H E T R AV E L O G U E

Destinations

A map of our destinations. pg. 8

Award-Winning Journeys

Ker & Downey gets recognition from top travel publications like Travel + Leisure and National Geographic Traveler. pg. 10

The Photo Hunt

Letter from the President

Correspondence

Philanthropy

Our newest winner, Larry Fitzgerald shows off his camera skills. pg. 9 The Kabel family tells their story of their family’s latest memorable journey with K&D to Southeast Asia. pg. 12

The latest from David Marek on his own journeys and where he’s going next. pg. 14 Ker & Downey catches up with Bana Ba Letsatsi in Botswana. pg. 15

BANYAN TREE LIJIANG

ON THE COVER: Street food vendors line the vibrant avenues during the Ban Anou night market in Vientiane, Laos. Ker & Downey goes outside the box to deliver a sample of the unexpected in Southeast Asia. See pg. 32 for our take on experiential travel in Laos, Thailand, Cambodia, and Vietnam.

Photographed by Aaron Joel Santos.

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DESTINATIONS

/ OUR BIG, BEAUTIFUL WORLD

IN THIS ISSUE

Mozambique, 42 French Polynesia, 9 China, 66 Egypt, 9 Vietnam, 13, 32 Thailand, 32

OUR WORLD

N O RT H AFRICA & MIDDLE E A ST Egypt Israel Jordan Morocco Oman Qatar Turkey United Arab Emirates

E A ST AFRICA

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ASIA

Zambia, 50 Zimbabwe, 50 India, 58 Laos, 13, 32

Bhutan Cambodia

WHAT DOES IT MEAN TO BE”BESPOKE”

China India Laos Nepal Thailand

SOUTH AMERICA Argentina

Vietnam

Brazil

SOUTHERN AFRICA

Ecuador & The Galapagos

Botswana

Peru

Mauritius

The real heartbeat of Ker & Downey traveling lies in our dedication to creating hand-crafted journeys that will change your life. The experience you gain, the adventure you have, the people you meet - all of these are the benchmarks of a truly life-changing journey - so step into the world of Ker & Downey with boldness. With any of our excursions, mix and match a world of destinations and luxury properties for your very own, unique trip of a lifetime.

Chile V O LU M E 4 , I S S U E 2 EXECUTIVE EDITOR CONTRIBUTING EDITORS

Mozambique

Rwanda

Namibia

Seychelles

South Africa

Tanzania

Zambia

French Polynesia

Uganda

Zimbabwe

New Zealand

Australia

Andrew Littmann Ann Abel David Jones

SOUTH PAC I F I C

Kenya

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Rwanda, 9 Uganda, 9, 15 South Africa, 9 Cambodia, 13, 32 Argentina, 18

Katy Heerssen David Marek CONTENT WRITERS

Katy Heerssen Andrew Littmann

ART DIRECTION & DESIGN

Andrew Littmann

*This magazine is a publication of Ker & Downey. The views and opinions expressed in this magazine belong to contributors and writers and may not reflect the views and opinions of Ker & Downey.

Photography credits include: Aaron Joel Santos, Four Seasons Resort Chiang Mai, Banyan Tree Lijiang, Banyan Tree Ringha, Lauren Marek, Thinkstockphotos, Larry Fitzgerald, David Marek, Ker & Downey Botswana, Alamy Photography, Four Seasons Buenos Aires, Llao Llao Resort and Spa, La Bamba de Areco Estancia, iStockphoto, Cavas Wine Lodge, Eolo, Loi Suites at Igauzu, Song Saa Island Resort, Amansara, Ibo Island Lodge, Rani Resorts, Dr. Colleen Begg, The Houston Zoo, Matemo Island, African Bush Camps, Tree of Life Resort, RAAS Jodhpur, Devi Garh, Aman New Delhi, Sanctuary Retreats, Metropolitan by COMO Bangkok.

All pricing that has been notated in this magazine has been listed based on double occupancy. Prices may vary depending on the time of year as well as other variable factors. © 2012 Ker & Downey

PHOTOGRAPHY CONTEST

The Photo Hunt Winner PHOTO BY: LARRY FITZGERALD SUBMIT YOUR PHOTOS! We want you to show us the world through your camera lens! Get in touch with us through Facebook, Twitter, email (even a good old-fashioned letter would do), and show us your best photos and your picture could be published right here in the next issue!

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AWA R D -W I N N I N G J O U R N E Y S / V O LU M E 4 , I S SU E 2

FRENCH POLYNESIA

WORLDWIDE

Award-Winning Journeys Ker & Downey is proud to have been featured among National Geographic Traveler’s 50 Tours of a Lifetime. Here are a few of our favorite experiences worldwide.

RWANDA / CONGO

Primates of Africa Seldom-visited and permit-free, OdzalaKokoua National Park is full of primates and forest-adapted wildlife.

We bring you the best of the park, plus Rwanda’s famous mountain primate treks, in this National Geographic 50 Tours of a Lifetime award-winner.

EGYPT

Uncovering Alexander’s Egypt Follow the footsteps of one of the most powerful men in antiquity, from the Oracle of Amun in the vast Western Desert to the city which 10

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still bears his name.

This journey reveals a glimpse into the history of Alexander the Great and the wonders of Egypt that are still standing and buried under the sea.

SOUTH AFRICA

Splendors of the Cape

Go beyond Cape Town in this thrilling exploration of South Africa’s Cape. Whales, wine, and wilderness are among the hallmarks of the fertile region – encompassing the Great Karoo and the Garden Route, this

journey is as diverse as it is beautiful.

SOUTH PACIFIC

Path of the Polynesians Jetset across the Pacific and trace the origins of Polynesian cultures from Easter Island to New Zealand.

Lovers of anthropology will be spoiled with the incredible history and the most picturesque luxury accommodations in the heart of three ancient Polynesian territories.

To experience these award-winning journeys for yourself, contact your travel agent or contact us at www.kerdowney.com.

snapshot ON THE WEB Interact with us on our website and see amazing photos of your wish list destinations at www. kerdowney.com

OUR FACEBOOK facebook.com/keranddowney

OUR TWITTER twitter.com/kdluxurytravel

DROP US A LINE info@kerdowney.com

CHAT WITH US 800.423.4236

PHOTO BY: METROPOLITAN BY COMO, BANGKOK

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CORRESPONDENCE

/ PERSONAL STORIES

Meet the Kabels

Traveling is meant not only to create memories, but to foster an understanding of how truly connected we are in our big, beautiful world. BESPOKE heard from Ken and Carol Kabel of Cincinnati, Ohio, who graciously shared their life-changing journey with us.

THE ESSENTIALS

Where was your favorite place to stay?

THE BASICS

When was your trip?

December 2010 - January 2011.

Where did you go?

Luang Prabang, Laos; Vietnam; Siem Reap, Cambodia.

Who did you travel with?

Our two college-aged daughters.

We had several favorite places to stay: In Luang Prabang we loved La Residence Phou Vao. It was the perfect introduction to Southeast Asia. The rooms, grounds, view were beautiful and the staff and service were terrific. We had a magical and memorable New Year’s celebration at the hotel, too.

In Hoi An, Vietnam we loved the Nam Hai. It was a spectacular hotel with superb facilities and services. The rooms/ villas were probably the nicest we’ve ever stayed in. In the evening, it was wonderful to come back to our candlelit rooms. The variety and breadth of breakfast buffet selections were amazing, too.

What was the best part of your trip?

There were many, many highlights. Cruising on Halong Bay, giving alms to

the monks in Luang Prabang at dawn, biking to the elephant sanctuary & riding elephants in Luang Prabang, cruising the Mekong River in Laos and Vietnam, getting tailor-made clothing in Hoi An, walking through the spectacular temples in Siem Reap, navigating traffic in Saigon were experiences to never forget!

loved the food on our trip. We tasted fruits and vegetables that were new to us and we ate Pho almost every day! In spite of eating all of the time we found that we didn’t gain any weight!

What most surprised you on your journey?

We came to greatly admire the sense of family and commitment to each other that we saw everywhere we went. For instance, it is very common for three generations to live in the same house or next door to each other.

Thus, families are connected throughout their lives in a way that enriches them all. Here in America we tend to live in so many different places, often apart from our families and we came to admire the connectedness that their culture provides.

Vietnam was a much more modern country than some of us had expected. Ken remembers the time of the Vietnam War and had worried how we would be received as Americans. It turns out that the Vietnamese were extraordinarily gracious hosts who genuinely seemed to like America and Americans.

Thus, we felt very welcomed.

The peacefulness of Luang Prabang captivated us and we hope to return there. We also

What lasting impression did you leave with?

“ THIS WAS ONE OF OUR FAVORITE FAMILY VACATIONS . EACH AND EVERY DAY WAS MEMORABLE ON ITS OWN WITH A UNIQUE ADVENTURE OR EXPERIENCE .”

WE WANT TO HEAR FROM OUR TRAVELERS: If you’ve taken a life-changing journey with Ker & Downey, we want to hear about it! Drop us a line at info@kerdowney.com or send an email to your Travel Professional and let us know what you loved about your trip and what changed your life.

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LETTER

/ LETTER FROM THE PRESIDENT

R

ecently, my wife Gana and I returned from Uganda, where we helped deliver 12,000 mosquito nets and assisted doctors and nurses who saw about 15,000 patients. While we were there, back home the news outlets reported that the dreaded Ebola virus had reared its ugly head in western Uganda. Family and friends sent text messages ranging from “be careful” to “get out!” Well, we’re always careful, but there’s no way we were going to “get out!” These people need our help and if we don’t help them now, when will we? There’s no time like NOW! Travel can have similar timing issues. You want to travel but… there’s Thanksgiving, and then there’s the holidays, and we can’t leave our family during the holidays… can we? Or there’s trouble in the Middle East (when is there NOT trouble in the Middle East?) and in Libya… and before you know it a year is gone and you’ve not traveled any place new, nor revisited any of your favorite places. You’re stuck in a rut and can’t get out of it.

This issue of BESPOKE is chock full of travel opportunities so varied that it will make you ask the question, “If not now…when?” When you travel with Ker & Downey, we take care of all the details so you have a worry-free travel experience.

This issue takes you from Argentina to Botswana, Zimbabwe, Mozambique, Cambodia, and China. We also discuss the Bana Ba Letsetsi (Sunshine Children) organization in Botswana. Each destination is filled with opportunities to explore and experience the uniqueness of each journey.

My hope is that you will read this issue and come away with the desire to travel… yes, it’s now time to go. If not now… when? Call us – we’ll take care of the details.

David Marek President

KER & DOWNEY

PHILANTHROPIC JOURNEYS: Learn how to get involved with Ker & Downey’s philanthropy projects while traveling at www.kerdowney.com/philanthropy

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PHILANTHROPY

PHILANTHROPY

How the Other Half Survives Ker & Downey helps Bana Ba Letsatsi makes an impact on children’s lives in Botswana.

Before venturing into the untamed marshes of the Okavango Delta, visitors almost always pass through Maun, the fifth largest of Botswana’s cities, with a population of 50,000 and climbing. As people abandon the pastoral life in favor of urban opportunities, the city continues to experience growing pains – unemployment, poverty, and an increasing number of street children. The plight of an African street child is virtually the same regardless of location: vulnerability to abuse and violence, manipulation by gangs, drug addiction, and a tendency toward criminal activity.

In Maun and its surroundings, Bana Ba Letsatsi works to secure rehabilitation for the youths of the streets.

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Bana Ba Letsatsi volunteers hand out supplies to local children.

Bana Ba Letsatsi translates to “Sunshine Children” in Setswana. This is the ultimate goal, for each child touched by the program to radiate hope and happiness from within, fostering an environment where children’s basic physical and social needs are met so that they may recognize that education leads to a bright future…as bright even as the sun itself.

Efforts began in 2002 to reintroduce these children to school and to provide a safe place off the streets, and in 2006 Bana Ba Letsatsi was able to build a proper center on land granted from the government of Botswana. Tremendous support has brought about expansion beyond daytime refuge and schooling – the children of Bana Ba Letsatsi receive a total sense-of-self makeover, head to toe, inside and out. Organized sports encourage teamwork and a positive outlet for energy. Access to modern hygiene facilities, including a place for haircuts, helps bolster fragile self-esteems with confidence. Bana Ba Letsatsi has created a robust center for these at-risk – and sometimes broken – young spirits, cooperating with government social workers and teachers to assess and nurture each individual. These professionals recognize that every child is different, and the path back to school sometimes includes informal classes at the center before organized primary or boarding school.

There is no age limit – high or low – for the needs of the children in the communities in Maun. For older teens, Bana Ba Letsatsi offers a path back into conventional schooling, and also vocational skills training and job placement assistance. The youngest children enter the cooperative preschool program, sponsored financially so that they may attend one of the area’s private preschools, always beginning their day at the Bana Ba Letsatsi center with a healthy breakfast and clean uniform, and enjoying enriching after-school activities.

Recognizing that success for these children comes from a positive environment at home, the center has branched out to offer skills training and literacy lessons for parents and caregivers, and has 16

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even been able to help families with basic needs at home.

In-center programs not only give children a safe place to gather and develop social skills, but provide a structured environment and a sense of stability, if only for a few hours a day. To keep children engaged and off the streets during school holidays the center organizes day-long workshops, safaris, and camping trips in the Okavango Delta, creating a sense of pride and appreciation for the natural wonderland in their backyard.

Encouraging communion with nature is not only educational – it helps to protect Maun and its surrounding area, making sure that the wilderness and those who live near it continue to thrive.

For more information about Bana Ba Letsatsi and how you can contribute, speak to your Ker & Downey travel professional or visit www.kerdowney.com/philanthropy.

Trying on new clothes for the first time in a long while.

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Argentinian Polo Player.

SPRINGTIME in

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Buenos Aires is famous for its tango dancing.

Ker & Downey clients can enjoy a private tango show and dinner party during their stay in Buenos Aires.

ARGENTINA Travel with Ker & Downey’s Katy Heerssen as she discovers a varied landscape of tropical rainforests, mountainous beauty, and a distinctly European flair in Argentina’s experiential hot spots.

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On the first occasion to use my passport since chaperoning 28 high schoolers through France and Italy, this Texas native headed for a spring break south of the border – way south – in a place that turned out to be closer to home than I expected. Ker & Downey’s Holly Kilpatrick and I explored the many faces and varied locales of Argentina.

Our first glimpse of the country was its capital, Buenos Aires. The metropolis is famously referred to as the Paris of South America, and the nickname fits. Driving through the busy streets I was instantly reminded of my last trip abroad and the flats that lined the streets of Paris – terraces decked with wrought-iron accents and overgrown with flowering vines, stone and brick mingling to craft an inviting facade. The European influence is undeniable, with not only Spanish roots but a healthy German and Italian presence in the population as well. Our guide Mario Braun – a brilliant German Argentine – is among the many residents of Buenos Aires who embody the city’s unique melting pot of cultures.

Though I spent my nights at the storied Alvear Palace

Los Glaciares National Park is home to 47 glaciers.

ACROSS; The Four Seasons Buenos Aires.

hotel in the heart of the posh Recoleta district, I had the chance to visit a few other favorites of Ker & Downey guests. Buenos Aires’ hotel options are as diverse and eclectic as the city itself. At the Park Hyatt Palacio Duhau – an opulent private home turned exceedingly beautiful hotel – I sampled treats presented in dainty bowls, enjoying a view of the manicured courtyard as I had my first taste of sinful dulche de leche, an Argentine favorite. Close to the Puerto Madero Waterfront in a renovated warehouse, the Faena is an explosion of color and whimsical modern decor, with sleek accommodations and a nightlife all its own. The hotel’s cabaret is home to Rojo Tango, a nightly tango show as provocative as the hotel itself, which is often the temporary home of worldwide VIPs like Roger Waters of Pink Floyd, who performed his “The Wall” tour during my visit.

During our city tour with Mario, we spent a considerable part of the day in the fascinating Recoleta Cemetery.

Being buried here is the ultimate posthumous status symbol, and even middle-class families scrimped and sacrificed on earth just to spend the afterlife in the company of actors, musicians, and heads of state.

Family shrines entombing generations of loved ones are so intricate they shame even the stateliest mausoleums of New Orleans’ cemeteries. Among the graves is the final resting place of former first lady María Eva Duarte de Perón, better known as Evita.

Many Argentines were quick to school us on all things Evita, pointing out, for instance, that she never actually said “don’t cry for me, Argentina” – much less sang it. We were just as quick to inform them that not all Texans are cowboys, and that none of us ride horses to work or school – or had ever ridden one at all.

Still, I felt an uncanny connection to our next destination, north of Buenos Aires: San Antonio de Areco, where South American cowboy culture is alive and well. Small stores with attached workshops display handcrafted pieces – among them spurs, belts, and harnesses adorned with silver, or ropes and whips braided from horse and cow hair – created in the same fashion today as they had been for gauchos centuries ago. The sleepy town comes to life annually during the second week in November as gauchos from all over the country descend upon the city for the annual Gauchos Festival. Up to 2,000 horses and many more riders take part in a weeklong series of parades, contests, and celebration of the generations of a proud and humble culture.

Several miles from the peaceful city center we switched vehicles and were driven along a bouncing, muddy road to the unmistakable red buildings of Estancia La

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The Llao Llao resort and spa sits in a prime location in Bariloche.

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The luxurious Canadian-style Llao Llao Hotel & Resort looks as if it was plucked straight out of the Rockies and enjoys a breathtaking position overlooking the lake and the old-growth forests in the heart of Nahuel Huapi National Park

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Bartender at La Bamba de Areco.

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Bamba de Areco. The entire staff awaited our arrival, greeting us along the tree-lined drive and ushering us inside the home, built in 1830. Up a narrow staircase we entered the lookout tower, where marauding bands of natives or others traversing the Camino Real could be spotted at a distance. At ground level, a sitting room stretches toward an opulent dining room, both chock-full of curiosities and art that pay tribute to the historic traditions of the gaucho and the refined sport of polo. Equestrian pursuits are a passion of owner Jean-Francois Decaux, himself a polo player and team owner. From the three suites in the main house to the rest scattered in buildings original to the estate, each room of the hotel is named after a famous polo pony – Mariposa, Lalabai, and Gato among them. The deluxe accommodations extend beyond guests with two legs – Decaux’s 18 polo horses inhabit stables styled to appear as though they were as old as the estate itself.

Over lunch we mused with our hostess about her former life as a “city girl” in Buenos Aires, and how after several years in the peace of the estancia, she never wanted to work in the city again. The head chef was artfully preparing our meal just feet away from us in a bricked barbecue, gliding by to serve platter after platter of fresh grilled meats, seasoned potatoes, vegetables, and toasted dulche de leche. All the while, Gaucho the massive black Lab napped on the dirt floor, no doubt dreaming of the table scraps he would later be spoiled with. The many equestrian activities are among the highlights at La Bamba, including a gaucho-led horseback tour of the estate and the pampas and polo demonstrations during the season. After lunch we were treated to a gaucho demonstration, a kind of ballet on the grass that illustrated the trust between a skilled gaucho and his steed.

Next we flew south to the edge of Patagonia. Knowing that I would soon be returning to temperatures already approaching the mid-90s in my beloved Houston, I took every opportunity to enjoy the crisp air of Argentina’s autumn. El Calafate is the main hub in the area, a town that has boomed in the past several years thanks to its easy access to the UNESCO-listed Los Glaciares National Park. The town is not unlike a small Colorado ski village, its main drag lined with tiny bars, cafés, and shops where dialects from all over the world can be overheard. Within walking distance to the activity of the main avenue, Los Sauces Casas Patagonicas is a quiet collection of individual homes separated into spacious suites. Rock paths through manicured lawns and stands of trees connect the casas

and the main lodge, where Holly and I fueled up before sunrise, anticipating our glacier hike in the park.

The thought of hiking more than a mile on varied elevations of glacial ice was both thrilling and terrifying – this Texas girl’s first experience with actual sticksto-the-ground snow was at age 15, and I had no idea what to expect from the frigid surface of the Perito Moreno Glacier. The largest and most popular of the dozens of glaciers in Los Glaciares National Park encompasses an area three times the size of Manhattan, ever advancing on the impossibly turquoise waters of Lake Argentino. The lake owes its striking color to the unique mix of sediment stirred by the constant movement of the glaciers. We were ferried across the water with other intrepid hikers, among them an Australian family. Their daughter had just celebrated her tenth birthday and, like me, was a bit daunted by the 22 stories of ice towering before her. The guides assured her that the task could be accomplished, and after the initial ascent, she was setting the pace for the group and bounding over the icy rises and falls with the guides at her side.

Hiking Perito Moreno Glacier is one of the top attractions in Los Glaciares National Park

Our group of about 20 stomped and sloshed, at times teetering on the edge of ancient waterfalls cascading into bottomless blue caverns, and navigating the slick surface with relative ease, thanks to the crampons provided. With the help of our guides we even refilled our water bottles with actual glacial H20, sampling what the world’s third-largest reserve of fresh water had to offer. Our trek was rewarded with a glass of Maker’s, served over ice chipped from the glacier, of course. The bourbon and the ice were both well-aged, though with a considerable number of year’s difference.

In an era when we are painfully aware of climate change and the threat it poses to us now and in the years to come, it was refreshing to be standing atop tons of ice that is millions of years old and is defying nature by inexplicably continuing to grow in size. After a picnic lunch – complete with individual bottles of

The end of our trek was rewarded with a glass of Maker’s, served over ice chipped away directly from the glacier, of course.

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The metropolis is famously referred to as the Paris of South America, and the nickname fits.

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with thoughtfully sourced artifacts from all over Argentina, and during the lodge’s off-season closure, the owners scour antique markets in Buenos Aires for furnishings, books, and pieces to add to the collection. Horseback riding is a must at Eolo, so we rode to a tiny lagoon within view of the hotel, catching distant glimpses of pink flamingos in the water and condors circling overhead. This was the perfect pause and recharge I needed for the rest of the trip.

TOP TO BOTTOM; Suite at the La Bamba de Areco estancia; Exquisite exterior of Cavas Wine Lodge - one of the best places to enjoy a nice glass of Argentinian wine.

Malbec – and relaxing on a blustery hill, we crossed back over the lake and headed for the intricate viewing platforms of the Perito Moreno visitors center. The durable metal paths are fully accessible for all mobility levels and provide an amazing view of the entire face of the glacier. Our guide pointed out the spot where the ice had blocked the lake up until about week before our arrival – this recurring natural dam splits Lake Argentino in two until the accumulated pressure triggers a rupture, sending ice thundering into the lake. Ruptures are unpredictable but happen regularly at Perito Moreno, interrupting the stillness with an unearthly crack. When it comes to witnessing glacier ruptures, however, Murphy’s Law certainly applies. As soon as we turned our heads or passed behind the trees we would hear the telltale crack echoing over the lake, the “oohs!” from other onlookers, and a distant rumble and splash. Simply hearing it was enough to remind me of the power and the years behind all that sluggish ice.

We continued on to a new destination outside of El Calafate. Bordered by sheep and cattle estancias, Eolo is a slice of bliss at the base of Mount Frias, a healthy distance from the more commercial surrounds of town.

Constant breezes brushed over the estate, reminding me of the arid, mountainous stretches of nothingness in west Texas – something my family remarked on as I video chatted with them from the deck outside the dining room, giving them a panorama with my iPhone.

Suites are ample and airy, with views over the pastures to Lake Argentino or the mountains behind. My time here felt like a holiday with a distant relative you rarely see but who always greets you with a jovial pat on the back and a generous glass of wine. Dining is unhurried and unique, with an ever-changing menu of seasonal offerings that highlights local Argentine beef and lamb. The home is decked

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Next we headed back to the big city for a quick night at the Four Seasons Buenos Aires. I was lucky enough to stay in the deluxe one-bedroom suite, the first of the 49 suites to be graced with an updated decor as part of a comprehensive renovation. The hotel is drawing on the design prowess of WA International, whose portfolio includes Dubai’s The Address Downtown and One&Only The Palm. With generous leather couches and a sprawling dining table that seats eight, I almost felt I needed to head downstairs and invite St. Patrick’s Day revelers up to enjoy the space with me. They surely would have appreciated the illuminated sink and metal paneling in the guest half bath as much as I did. My view from the twelfth-floor picture windows looking down 9 de Julio Avenue was among the perfect last impressions of the vibrant city.

On our last day in Buenos Aires we explored La Boca, the neighborhood noted for its colorful buildings and iconic La Bombonera football stadium, and the place where the tango was first danced in back-alley brothels.

The streets were quiet on a Sunday morning, with only a handful of artisan stalls open. When Holly purchased a print, we were given directions to the artist’s home and studio a few blocks over. We were greeted by Guillermo Alio, who was eager to sign Holly’s print and drew quick illustrations for us both. When he’s not creating, he visits tango clubs with his wife, tapping into his past as a traveling dancer. He uses the dance as his art, literally dipping his shoes into paint and allowing the fluid

Eolo shares La Anita Valley with a handful of tiny estancias.

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The three tiered infinty pool at Loi Suites Iguazu Falls feels great after a day of hiking.

movements of the tango to paint the canvas. Ours was a treasured meeting with a talented La Boca fixture.

When spending a Sunday in Buenos Aires, it would be a true shame not to visit the funky-fun San Telmo district and its massive street market. The avenues surrounding the Nuestra Señora de Belén church are lined with vendors of all sorts, displaying rows of glittering antique colored glass, oversize skeleton keys, and the occasional magazine cover emblazoned with a vintage image of Freddie Mercury or the iconic cartoon urchin Marfa. It was a time capsule jam-packed with the ornate and the quirky, a perfect reflection of San Telmo’s history. The neighborhood was Buenos Aires’ finest until a yellow fever outbreak forced wealthy families to abandon their palatial homes and populate Recoleta instead. In time artists and musicians moved in, converting stunning colonial villas into studios and galleries, and bringing with them a creative spirit that remains today.

Argentina is as large as it is diverse, and may take a few trips to be experienced as a whole, but it’s a corner of the world that’s worth the visits. Mendoza is an epicurean mecca, famous for its incredible wines. The undulating valleys east of the Andes cradle hundreds of wineries, 25 of them neighbors to the Cavas Wine Lodge. The collection of adobe-style casitas, each with its own private plunge pool and rooftop terrace, delivers an exclusive escape in the heart of wine country. Farther north there’s Salta, a historic city with a wealth of Spanish-colonial architectural treasures and a vibrant cultural and culinary community – the latter benefiting from Mendoza’s nearby breadbasket.

Outdoor adventurers flock to Bariloche, a haven defined by Lake Nahuel Huapi and the Andean foothills, to enjoy fly-fishing, river rafting, and hiking in the summer and skiing on Mount Catedral in the

Swinging bridges stretch over the tropical gardens and connect the outlying rooms and suites to the main building and its spectacular multi-level infinity pools and sprawling outdoor lounge.

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winter. The luxurious Canadian-style Llao Llao Hotel & Resort looks as if it was plucked straight out of the Rockies and enjoys a breathtaking position overlooking the lake and the old-growth forests in the heart of Nahuel Huapi National Park. Diplomats and celebrities from around the world have been welcomed into the gorgeous hotel for decades, drawn by the unrivaled scenery, and possibly by its excellent golf course. In addition to the historic building, constructed in 1940, a modern wing of the hotel has tremendous views of Lake Moreno and Mount Tronador.

Though I wanted to see more, our journey concluded at Iguazu Falls, which felt like home – humid and hot. I was glad to have soaked up all the chill I could in Patagonia!

We traveled to the end of a forested road and found Loi Suites Iguazu Falls, a jungle hideaway that feels like an urban resort. Swinging bridges stretch over the tropical gardens and connect the outlying rooms and suites to the main building and its spectacular multilevel infinity pools and sprawling outdoor lounge. From here it was just a short drive to Iguazu National Park and the famous falls. Our guide Chino was incredible, imparting so much history of the falls’ discovery and the tribulations of the men who trekked through the jungle to find them. As we navigated the web of elevated paths and bridges I tried to imagine walking over the terrain, the roar of rushing water in the distance growing closer, not knowing what we might stumble upon at any moment. The falls were discovered by Spanish explorer Álvar Núñez Cabeza de Vaca, who, interestingly, also chronicled explorations in the Texas Gulf Coast and the area that is now Houston. And it all comes full circle – I’m reminded of home even in the foreign surroundings of Iguazu Falls. I started planning my return even before I touched down in Houston, arriving as expected to a rush of humidity and instantly longing for a sip of glacial ice water.

For more information about customizing your own journey with Ker & Downey to Argentina, contact your travel professional or speak to a South America Specialist at www.kerdowney.com

Overhead view of the observation deck at Iguazu Falls.

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We’re whetting your appetite for the history, color, and culture of Thailand, Laos, Vietnam, and Cambodia with our handpicked selection of the best of Southeast Asia’s experiences – some out-of-the-ordinary exclusives that only Ker & Downey can deliver, others simply new ways of experiencing the region’s timeless treasures.

Asian Medley

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Privacy abounds at the Song Saa Island Resort where guests have private pool villas with spectacular vistas.

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Tad Sae Waterfall

The privileged elephants that live at the camp are trained to work with visitors, navigating the jungle landscape to reach isolated locations like the stunning Tad Sae Waterfall.

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Private dinners can be a relaxing end to the day at the Four Seasons Chiang Mai.

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B BANGKOK

Thailand’s capital is a city of contrasts, with towering skyscrapers next to the pointed peaks of wats and flashing neon reflecting off the gilded roofs of ancient temples. There is no better way to take in Bangkok’s many faces and facades than from the air.

By helicopter, explore the city that sprawls around the banks of the Chao Phraya River. View the intricate series of bridges that cross the river, including the “Mega” Dipangkorn Rasmijoti Bridge and the first cabled bridge in Bangkok, the Rama IX Bridge. The flyover also includes the historic Phra Samut Chedi district, the Temple of Dawn, and the colorful Royal Grand Palace complex – its grand scale is perhaps even more stunning from above.

CHIANG MAI

Four Seasons’ Chiang Mai resort has long been considered one of the top in the world, making an appearance on almost every “must stay” list in Asia.

A collection of individual pavilions are scattered on the 20 acres of teak forests and terraced rice fields, offering an inviting and relaxing retreat in the heart of northern Thailand. Exploring the area is an enriching experience, and a cooking class on a local organic farm is a must for foodies and novices alike. Soak up the secrets of a local chef who takes you shopping at

the Ruamchook market and escorts you through his expansive garden stocked with Thai herbs and tropical fruits. Start from scratch on your meal, with the chef guiding you from pounding the curry paste all the way to firing up your creation. Dessert is topped by fruit straight from the garden’s trees – it doesn’t get much more fresh or fun than this.

LUANG PRABANG

The endangered Asian elephant is one of Indochina’s most recognized symbols and has played an important role in the development of the region since antiquity.

Located a few miles outside Luang Prabang on the site where the royal service elephants of the 19th century were trained and housed, the Elephant Village celebrates these gentle giants and provides them and their mahout caretakers with a safe occupation.

Instead of being trained for intense manual labor, the privileged elephants that live at the camp are trained to work with visitors, navigating the jungle landscape to reach isolated locations like the stunning Tad Sae Waterfall. Spend the morning in the village watching the elephants in their daily routine before climbing aboard for a trek through the dense jungle punctuated by limestone cascades.

SIEM REAP

Cambodia’s Angkor Wat is a testament to culture and craftsmanship that stretch back to the country’s first civilizations. Khmer heritage has endured through the centuries, and while the stunning Angkor Wat preserves the past, the Artisans d’Angkor ensures the future of the culture for the next generation. Most of the young adult artisans hail from rural backgrounds and have gone without schooling, but through the organization they learn to create the region’s traditional handicrafts – beautiful silk paintings, wood and stone carvings, and lacquer and gilt work. By participating in the revival of these arts, the students can provide for themselves and their families while discovering their own heritage, and learning skills for their future. A meeting with the artistic director of this program at his home workshop offers further insight into the incredible arts and the creative journey behind each piece.

PHNOM PENH

There’s no shortage of opulence in Southeast Asia from the brilliant walls of Wat Arun (left) to the barefoot luxury of the Song Saa private resort.

Often called “The Pearl of Asia”, Cambodia’s capital is home to a mixture of Khmer and French-colonial influences, exhibiting the country’s full history in the heart of one city. Bygone splendor is celebrated at the Royal Palace, a complex of colorful 19th-century buildings with sloping mustard-yellow roofs. Among these is the opulent Silver Pagoda, boasting a floor of

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Luxurious suites at Song Saa.

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KOH KONG

TOP TO BOTTOM; The Platform Suites of the Four Seasons Chiang Mai set the standard for luxury in Northern Thailand; Angkor Wat Temple at sundown. ACROSS; the Amansara.

more than 5,000 silver tiles and unimaginable gilded and bejeweled artifacts. A multitude of Buddhas reside within the pagoda’s marble walls, including a small Baccarat crystal statue and a life-size Maitreya Buddha encrusted with nearly 10,000 diamonds. The city clings to other, more chilling pasts, paying tribute to the 17,000 victims of the Khmer Rouge regime who were murdered at Tuol Seng prison just outside the city.

Fewer than 40 years have passed since the brutal reign of Pol Pot, and though the museum and memorial are purposely macabre, there exists a sense of hope and healing in the peaceful stretch of green fields.

MEKONG CHANNEL

The mighty Mekong River is a common thread winding through Southeast Asia, and its delta that spills out where Cambodia meets Vietnam is a cultural and biological haven. The delta’s newest floating boutique accommodations are found aboard the Jahan Cruise, whose 26 cabins with private balconies are touted as the largest of all the Mekong’s river cruises. Decked with British-Indian colonial splendor inside and a lavish pool deck outside, the Jahan is your luxury vehicle to the rural melting pot of the delta. Venture ashore into Chau Doc, a sleepy town that just happens to be the basa catfish capital of Vietnam, visit a village for local tea with honey in a modest rural home, or float through the canals in Binh Thanh Island and browse the Cai Be floating market in a traditional flatbottomed sampan. Activities abound on the Jahan too, including Cambodian and Vietnamese cooking classes that celebrate the blend of the two cultures so prevalent in delta villages.

Accessibility is a challenge in this lesstraveled section of Cambodia, and its isolation and obscurity have been the best defenses for the verdant rain forests of the Cardamom Mountains that remain mostly unexplored and blissfully undeveloped. By boat is the only way to reach the 4 Rivers Floating Lodge, a collection of 12 villas that really do float – while securely tethered – in the Tatai River. Tented en suite accommodations act as their own little islands, fanning out from the main lounge and restaurant area, all connected by decking made from composite materials instead of spoils from the local forests. The ecolodge exists in complete harmony with the pristine river and the small surrounding communities, using environmentally conscious building materials and state-of-the-art systems to ensure no impact on the river. Navigating the Tatai provides unforgettable sights – the Javan rhino, Indochinese tiger, and Asian forest elephant share the tropical habitat with more than 500 species of birds.

The Tatai Waterfall is the river’s crowning jewel, created by the shifting elevations to form a series of beautiful waterfalls and tranquil pools, perfect for swimming and relaxing in the untouched environment.

SIHANOUKVILLE

The name of the twin islands of Song Saa is Khmer for “The Sweethearts” – fitting, as the Song Saa Resort is just about as romantic as you can get. This private island sanctuary is bordered by white sands and endless turquoise waters, two among the handful of forested islands in the Gulf of Thailand that retain their wild beauty. A footbridge over the waters of a marine reserve connects the two islands and their unique treasures of the rain forest and the watery reefs. Villas are scattered in the jungle, on the beach, and even over the water, surrounding guests with pristine nature at every turn. Colorful coral, seahorses, and tropical fish are standards in the reserve, visible from atop a sea kayak but best seen through a snorkel mask. Set out with the resort conservation team to explore the rain forest and mangroves, or speed off to Koh Tang, a private coral island ideal for a gourmet picnic. Beyond the natural activities the islands provide, the resort offers a variety of unique experiences to enjoy from the comfort of your suite. Ask for your own private in-villa movie theater and the staff will provide a large screen and the movie of your choice, popcorn included. Partake in yoga on the banks of the island at sunrise, and celebrate the full moon with cocktails and music beside the pool.

For more information about customizing your own journey with Ker & Downey to Southeast Asia, contact your travel professional or call an Asia Specialist at 800.423.4236

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Ibo Island offers unparalleled adventure and history in Mozambique.

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MISSION TO MOZAMBIQUE Game-rich and scantly populated, the marshes and bushlands of Mozambique have long been one of Africa’s safari secrets. As time goes on in this region of survival and regeneration, the balance of human and animal is challenged, and with the scales threatening to tip dangerously the Niassa Lion Project lends an extra hand to bridge the gap between man and the wild.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY:

Dr. Colleen Begg

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M Mozambique’s Niassa Game Reserve in the north of the coastal country has only 35,000 permanent residents and more than 70% of Mozambique’s wildlife in its 16,000 square miles – an area twice the size of Massachusetts, whose population is 6.5 million.

In colonial times the Portuguese called this region “Fim do Mundo” – the end of the world – due to its isolation and lack of infrastructure. Its remote location meant endemic species thrived for generations, and in the late 1990s the Mozambican government began rehabilitating the reserve after years of neglect and environmentally devastating civil war. Visitors here find a quieter side of Africa, a place miraculously regenerating in an effort to once more be a thriving slice of southeastern Africa.

Winding almost 220 miles through the woodlands of the reserve is the Lugenda River, the lifeblood of Niassa and the focus of much of the wildlife activity.

Sheltered on its banks beneath a bounty of fig trees, Lugenda Wilderness Camp hosts visitors in search of the secrets of the reserve. Eight luxurious tents with private balconies peer out over the river, blending perfectly into the spectacular scenery. Though the East African–style tents appear wild and rustic,

water birds. Local fishermen are often spotted in their dugout canoes, fishing and smoking their catch on small ovens on the river’s islands. The banks of the Lugenda are also home to the bamboo-fenced field base of Dr. Colleen and Keith Begg, founders of the Niassa Lion Project and champions for conservation in the region. Colleen and Keith spend most of the year in the reserve with their two young children and a small team of local Mozambicans, finding practical ways to protect lions, African wild dogs, leopards, and spotted hyenas in Niassa. “We started off as researchers, but as we went along we realized we might just end up documenting the demise of species without doing anything about it,” Keith says. After completing an area carnivore survey in 2003, they discovered the very real and growing threats to lions and other carnivores in the reserve, and the Niassa Lion Project was born.

With only 23,000 to 40,000 remaining, the African lion population is half of what it was in the early 1950s, and Niassa is home to one of only five lion populations left in Africa. The costs to communities living with lions and other wildlife can be significant through the loss of life, livelihoods, and livestock. But people pose serious threats to the lions, including retaliatory killing as a result of human-lion conflict, indiscriminate snaring, and the risk of rabies and canine distemper spread by domestic dogs. Working hand in hand with communities, the Mozambican government,

LEFT TO RIGHT; As part of the annual Lion Conservation Fun Days, kids in Mbamba village pretend to be lions; monitoring lions through the Niassa Lion Project.

each is appointed with luxurious amenities, making them feel more like traditional hotel suites in the middle of the wilderness.

A dining area, swimming pool, and comprehensive library make up the timber and thatched main camp. On twice-daily game drives, Lugenda’s naturalists navigate the granite inselbergs rising out of the miombo woodlands, each one a different shape and known by a unique local name. The highest of these, Mecula and Jao, are each over half a mile tall. You may see the rare Taita falcon, waterbuck, a pack of African wild dogs, or herds of buffalo 200 strong. By night you will often hear a lion roaring, the whoop of a far-off hyena, or the low boom of a Pel’s fishing owl.

The Lugenda River offers a watery safari of hippo, elephant, crocodile, and on occasion even a lion basking on the sand bar. There is the usual show of African fish eagles, palm nut vultures, kingfishers, and other

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Stare off into the sunset and the Indian Ocean from the pool deck of Matemo Island.

and tourism partners, the Niassa Lion Project uses a holistic approach to find ways for man and beast to thrive in their coexistence.

In partnership with the Houston Zoo every November, the Niassa Lion Project hosts the Lion Conservation Fun Days for the children in Mbamba village. The children paint animal masks, run relay races, act out plays, and engage in many other activities designed to illustrate the importance of carnivores in their ecosystem. The Beggs’ hope to expand their efforts by developing an environmental conservation center that will provide bush visits for children and training in sustainable livelihoods for the entire community.

Niassa is as much about its people as it is about its wildlife, and in 2006 a radio-collared lion helped reveal just how deep the roots of man go in the region. The lion was lounging under a rocky overhang, watched from a distance by the Beggs. “For hours we had been staring at him and this rock through our cameras and binoculars,” Colleen recalls. “The more we looked, the more the markings on the rock behind the lion looked too regular to be wasp nests or lichen.” When the lion moved on and the Beggs rushed to inspect the rock, they discovered paintings that experts later confirmed were Batwa Pygmy geometric rock paintings, perhaps 4,000 years old.

Split your time in Mozambique’s paradise between the wilderness of Niassa and the idyllic beaches of Matemo Island...

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From the prehistoric to the colonial and post–civil war times, the culture of Mozambique takes center stage in Ker & Downey’s Untouched Africa: Conservation and Culture journey. Split your time in Mozambique’s paradise between the wilderness of Niassa and the idyllic beaches of Matemo Island, soaking up the sun and the intriguing history of the country’s island communities.

Among them is Ibo Island, where Portuguese culture meshes with that of the Kimwani people, who still maintain a traditional life on the island. Here the silversmith trade is passed down from father to son, and the women still wear the “Ibo face mask” – a painted face that indicates purity and beauty. Theirs is a culture that persists in the face of modernization, just like the wildlife here has persisted and rebounded, but still has a long way to go to reach levels of prosperity once enjoyed. The Beggs too remain steadfast, continuing to preserve the fragile landscape and the wildlife within it in the hope that future Mozambicans will follow suit.

We gratefully thank the contributors to this article: Wildlife researchers Dr. Colleen and Keith Begg share a passion to protect the imperiled wildlife of their native Africa. Following years of shared conservation projects in several countries, they founded the Niassa Lion Project in Mozambique in 2003. The Beggs spend most of the year in the Niassa National Reserve, raising conservation awareness in one of the most undeveloped wild places on the continent.

Peter Riger is the Vice-President of Conservation for the Houston Zoo Wildlife Conservation Program, a multidisciplinary effort that partners with and supports nearly two dozen programs around the world.

The endless beaches of Matemo Island.

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African Bush Camps has found the perfect balance of luxury and authenticity, treating guests to an intimate, low-frills safari in the treasured reserves of Botswana and Zimbabwe.

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The spacious tents at Somalisa Camp.

Art of Authenticity The

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Today’s world travelers are lucky if Africa is on their to-do list – there’s no shortage of luxurious properties to choose from, an almost limitless list of experiences to have in the bush. But for it to be an authentic excursion, it helps to have a homegrown force guiding the way – in more than just the Land Rover.

The authentic Africa is a safari that is at once lavish and humble with the experience paramount, and that’s what African Bush Camps has been delivering since 2006. With a foundation of simple elegance and fueled by his experience, his passion, and his unwavering dedication to utter authenticity, African Bush Camps’ owner, Beks Ndlovu, once a rising star in Zimbabwe’s guiding community, has skyrocketed into an industry leader. It’s a Cinderella story of the savannah in which a determined young man grew from camp staffer to internationally acclaimed safari operator with no fairy godmother in sight. That is, of course, unless you count the elephants.

Growing up on the edge of Hwange National Park, a young Beks would chase elephants from his home, startling them into retreat with a chorus of pots and pans. It was this ritual that piqued his interest in the

Its the simple details that make a stay with African Bush Camps on safari so memorable.

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animals and their wilderness home, and led to many days of exploration with boarding school friends and eventually a job at a local lodge. His career path morphed from accounting to guiding, and as he grew into a senior guide with well-established Wilderness Safaris, his renown with clients grew too. In 2002 he started an independent guiding company, Beks Safaris, and after four years of experiential adventures in the Seregenti and Okavango, he applied for a concession from Zimbabwe’s Park Board. After two unceremoniously rejected applications, the third time was the charm and Beks was granted a 90-mile concession in Hwange, today the base for Somalisa Camp. And while the elephants planted the safari seed, it was initial funding from private investors – Beks’ past clients who he’d guided through the lands he cherished so much – that made the construction of Somalisa possible.

Beks’ African Bush Camps empire stretches from Zimbabwe to Botswana, encompassing concessions in Hwange, Mana Pools, Chobe, and Moremi that include permanent camps, semi-permanent seasonal camps, and mobile tented excursions. Each property is designed with the wilderness as the focal point, enticing visitors with the luxuries of camp amenities and the unmatched beauty of the surrounding landscapes.

In the marshy lagoons of the Linyanti Game Reserve on the western edge of Botswana’s Chobe National Park, the six Meru-style tented suites of Linyanti Bush Camp are tucked well off the main tourist routes. Modern conveniences are not scarce – en suite bathrooms house flush toilets and gas-heated showers, and the spacious living area of each tent feels like a well-lit guest room in a brick-and-mortar structure thanks to thoughtful furnishings. Larger groups have the option of using the camp’s neighbor, Linyanti Ebony Camp. This smaller collection of tents hosts just eight guests at a time with facilities separate from the main camp to offer exclusivity in identical surroundings. The Linyanti’s swamps are the only year-round water source, and the game viewing here is consistent, best seen from the fiberglass confines of a mokoro canoe. Elephant and buffalo are spotted frequently, with lion, leopard, and wild dog among the predators making appearances.

Hippo and crocodile thrive in the swampy surrounds, and the elusive sitatunga can often be seen wading or

The main lounge of Linyanti Bush Camp.

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On safari with African Bush Camps guides in Botswana at Linyanti Bush Camp.

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even swimming through the marsh.

Adventurous travelers craving an intimate view of Linyanti get unbelievably close at Footsteps Across the Linyanti, an exclusive walking safari marrying the adventure of mobile tented camping with the amenities of a permanent site. The three “mini-Meru” tents and area for dining and relaxation are a welcome refuge after a day of excursions on foot, each tailored to abilities and interests of guests.

On the edge of the Makgadikgadi Pans, Nxai Pan Migration Camp welcomes visitors for a few months each year as the zebra lead the charge to the pan during green season, and is the only camp in close proximity to this annual migration. African Bush Camps’ varied options cater to guests of all interests and adventure levels, never compromising on comfort or manufacturing the experience.

Back home in Zimbabwe, the grande dame Somalisa Camp CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT; The simple comforts of luxury bath amenities make guests feel at home in the wild; Linyanti Bush Camp; Elephants are welcome at Somalisa Camp. remains steadfast in Beks’ beloved Hwange National Park, its six en suite tents shaded by acacia trees. An ancient seasonal guides, rigorously training them on all the facets of an flood plain stretches before the lodge, imbuing the area unhurried and comprehensive safari. Cornerstones of with the beauty and romance of the African wilderness the company since day one have been cooperation with and displaying vibrant wildflowers that blossom with and giving back to the communities surrounding its the seasonal rains. Among the 100-plus species in the camps. The African Bush Camps Foundation, helmed by area, the most prolific include zebra, giraffe, white Beks’ wife, Sophia, uses tourism profits to provide local rhino, lion, and elephant – which are no longer chased support in the form of scholarships, income-generating away with clanging cookware. Nearby Somalisa Acacia ventures, business training, skills training for at-risk caters to eight guests at the most, and enjoys a private women and young girls, and community-strengthening view of a water hole regularly visited by park denizens. events. On top of it all, with each camp and expansion great care is taken to assure a low-profile, low-impact When one of Africa’s top guides is the boss, the addition to the face of the wilderness. standard of the naturalists on staff follows suit. Along with directors Nic Polenakis and Ian Batchelor, Beks At the annual Indaba travel conference held in May, imparts a lifetime of knowledge to his skilled staff of African Bush Camps was nominated for the 2012 Safari Awards for Best Safari Accommodation Group in Africa – it took bronze in the category in 2011 – and Ndlovu was nominated for Best Personal Contribution to Safari Tourism. Not a bad six-year anniversary present for a man who remains one of just a handful of black owners in Southern Africa’s white-dominated tourism industry.

Still, his recognition has little to do with the color of his skin and everything to do with the amazing caliber of safari his guests experience – an authentic Africa that remains unhurried, palatial, and stunningly beautiful.

For more information about customizing your own journey with Ker & Downey to Zambia or Zimbabwe, or any other Southern African destination, contact your travel professional or visit us on the web at www.kerdowney.com 56

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Amazing leopard sighting in Botswana.

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DESIGN HOTELS OF INDIA ACCOMMODATION:

LOCATION:

Tree of Life Resort

Jaipur, India

Find the ultimate in unhurried relaxation and seclusion in the dusky pink villas of the Tree of Life Resort & Spa, located just outside the famed “Pink City” of Jaipur. Vibrant colors indicative of Rajasthani design are on full display, from the plush textiles in fuchsia, green, and turquoise to the painted dome ceilings above the spacious bath. Each villa acts as its own private walled home, with the exclusive comforts of a plunge pool on a private furnished terrace and tented sala on a lush lawn.

TOTAL NUMBER OF ROOMS: 14 PRIVATE VILLAS

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WHAT TO DO:

LIVE PERFORMANCES THE GANESH ADOBE TEMPLE CEREMONIES OUTDOOR MASSAGES COOKING LESSONS

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WHAT TO DO:

TUK TUK RIDES MEHRANGARH FORT POOLSIDE CABANAS AYURVEDA TREATMENTS

ACCOMMODATION:

LOCATION:

RAAS

Jodhpur, India

In its heyday as a lavish private home in the 19th century, the rose-red buildings that now comprise the RAAS Hotel played host to a cast of exclusive guests of the Thakur and his family. Today the grandeur of old is echoed in the intricately carved jaali screens that accent the sandstone structures, and the retreat’s contemporary buildings balance the spirit of the past with modern furnishings and elegant amenities. Jodhpur’s signature cornflower blue pops against a scheme of soothing neutrals, while peeking through the screened balcony reveals the manicured garden square or the Mehrangarh Fort lording over the city.

TOTAL NUMBER OF ROOMS: 32 ROOMS, 7 SUITES

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WHAT TO DO:

SUNRISE YOGA DEVI SPA CAMEL RIDES STARGAZING KITE FLYING

ACCOMMODATION:

LOCATION:

Devi Garh

Udaipur, India

Though its weathered facade remains purposely untouched, the corridors of the 18th-century Devi Garh fort palace have been painstakingly restored and enhanced with updated minimalist interiors.

As it did in bygone days, the Rajput palace hovers over the pastoral village of Delwara near Udaipur.

Despite the simple peace of the region, luxurious embellishments like semi-precious stones and a generous presence of local white marble remind guests of the palace splendor of old. Each incredible suite is unique in composition, offering views of the Aravali Hills or verdant gardens from private balconies and bay windows.

TOTAL NUMBER OF ROOMS: 39 SUITES

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ACCOMMODATION:

LOCATION:

Aman New Delhi

New Delhi, India

This city-chic resort emulates a private community plucked from Beverly Hills and dropped into the quiet landscaped surrounds of colonial-era Delhi. Each room possesses its own private plunge pool and terrace, and guests have a choice of Aman or Lodhi accommodations, the latter being only suites and housed in a separate five-story tower. The contemporary splendor has a marked Hindustan vibe - native khareda stone and handcrafted carpets adorn the floors, rich wood paneling warms the walls, and the exterior textures display patterns from the traditional jaali screens.

TOTAL NUMBER OF ROOMS: 30 AMAN ROOMS, 8 AMAN SUITES, 28 LODHI SUITES

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WHAT TO DO:

THE AMAN SPA WINE TASTINGS TAPAS LOUNGE LUTYENS’

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Ancient streets of Lijiang, still a center of daily life for the locals.

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THE

surreal

CHINA

COUNTRYSIDE Hundreds of miles away from the bedlam of traffic and tourists, the unexpected wonders of China take center stage. Go off the beaten path as we reveal a sweeping panorama of cultures and scenery.

Tiger Leaping Gorge.

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Beyond the Wall and the warriors, the Bird’s Nest and the Forbidden City, the sprawling country of China harbors cultures and communities as diverse as they are ancient.

In these often forgotten areas hidden in pristine valleys or teetering on the edge of impossibly steep cliffs, life moves at a relaxed pace, traditions outnumber technologies, and the breathtaking scenery is a welcome contrast to the quickness of tourists and vehicles humming through the crowded streets of more popular and populous destinations.

The mighty Yangtze, what could be considered China’s Nile, nourished the first Chinese civilizations and winds its way through thousands of miles of rural countryside. In modern times, the demands of a growing population led to the Three Gorges Dam, the largest hydroelectric dam in the world. The resulting modifications to the river ignited a renaissance for the area and renewed interest in the multitude of cultures that flourished at its banks for centuries, prompting the relocation of several ancient villages and artifacts. Exploring the evolving Yangtze has become a new adventure, and Sanctuary’s Yangzi Explorer is leading the way in ferrying passengers on what seems like a new waterway.

Luxurious suite aboard the M.S. Yangzi Explorer.

OPPOSITE CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT; Private dinner experience at Banyan Tree Lijiang; View from the Banyan Tree Ringha over the surrounding Tibetan valley landscape; Suite of the M.S. Yangzi Explorer; Villa bedroom at Banyan Tree Lijiang.

Sanctuary Yangzi Explorer endeavors to erase the hectic, cramped feeling of bustling city life as soon as guests step on board. Floor-toceiling windows and private balconies are standard in each luxurious cabin – all the better to spread out and marvel at the passing spectacle of cliffs and the verdant landscapes of the Yangtze’s three crown jewels: Qutang, Wu, and Xiling Gorges. The yacht is unprecedented among cruises, with a one-to-one crew-to-passenger ratio

and amenities that rival those of a Caribbean cruise liner.

Onboard activities abound, with live performances in a fullsize theater, open-air Tai Chi instruction on the top deck, Chinese cooking and traditional calligraphy classes, and an indulgent spa among the many options.

Excursions take passengers even closer to the beauty of the river and its tributaries, including Shennong Stream.

The clear waters snake through limestone cliffs that have been inhabited since the Han Dynasty, as evidenced by the carved-wood coffins placed along the cliff like stairsteps and balanced on beams 100 feet or more above the water in the crags that disrupt the face. Some coffins are thought to be as old as 2,000 years, and the logistics of burials in this precarious location have baffled Chinese historians and archaeologists for generations. Visitors navigate the Shennong on traditional rafts and are literally dragged through the shallow waters at the stream’s end by a team of boat pullers – a method used by river vessels since ancient times. The paths on which these men tread as they haul boats ashore were carved before the first stones of the Great Wall were laid, worn smooth by a millennium of feet clad in handmade straw sandals.

Skirting the Himalayas, China’s Yunnan Province is characterized by a wealth of minority groups and small mountain ranges, with the historic town of Lijiang nestled in its undulating terrain. The city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, located at a point in the Jade River where the water flow forks into three sections.

Colorful medieval buildings sprout up next to the many canals and streams that create a web throughout the city, a layout that has earned it the nickname “the Venice of the Orient.” Isolation in the shadow of the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain and the city’s romantic atmosphere makes Lijiang one of the more popular destinations among Chinese honeymooners. It was the flocking of lovebirds that drew the interest of hoteliers more than the formerly infrequent trickle of Western

The mighty Yangtze, what could be considered China’s Nile, nourished the first Chinese civilizations...

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Scenery of Lijiang.

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Lijiang River Panorama.

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tourists – a leisurely drip that is approaching a surge as the area grows in popularity.

Located just north of the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain’s peaks, the award-winning Banyan Tree Lijiang embraces the town’s quaint atmosphere.

From the sloping roofs to the colorful handcrafted details in each spacious suite, influences from the local Naxi and Tibetan cultures permeate both the interiors and the facade of the resort.

Banyan Tree’s hallmark spa experience involving centuries-old holistic treatments is not to be missed, but perhaps the hotel’s best feature is its proximity to the surrounding countryside and all its treasures.

Old Town Lijiang is a mix of eclectic shops and cafés helmed by smiling faces, and the combination of natural beauty, relaxed attitudes, and the reflection of the vibrant buildings in the still waters of the town’s canals create an air of quiet jubilation at all times. Bonfires in the city center happen almost nightly with locals turning out in droves to dance and play music, and visitors welcome to join in the revelry. Beyond the life in Old Town, the silence of the mountains beckons. Some of the best views in China can be glimpsed from the banks of Black Dragon Pool, or on the edge of the Tiger Leaping Gorge, among the deepest and most treacherous in the world.

North of Lijiang, the gateway to Tibet can be found in the town of Shangri-La. Formerly named Zhongdian, the city has adopted the moniker of the fictional valley of unending peace and otherworldly longevity from James Hilton’s Lost Horizon. Whether or not it was the inspiration for the novel, this Shangri-La does capture the thoughts of Asian charm conjured by its name. Like Lijiang’s, Shangri-La’s cultural blend is extensive, with the majority of residents from Tibetan heritage, and rural Tibetan culture can be experienced here without having to travel into the sometimes tense special

Bonfires in the city center happen almost nightly with locals turning out in droves to dance and play music, and visitors welcome to join in the revelry.

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administrative district. Dozens of Tibetan farmhouses compose the elegant Banyan Tree Ringha, the premier resort in the area. Each structure was relocated from a nearby town, restored onsite, and enhanced with modern amenities and superbly detailed artwork and finishes. Authentic country life is on full display, with scads of pigs, yaks, and goats shepherded lazily through the cobblestone streets and residents eager to welcome visitors into their homes. Perched on a hill just north of town is the Songzanlin Monastery, a unique collection of temples that embrace religious aspects of both Tibetan Buddhism and Shamanism and shelter a wealth of artwork and intricate prayer wheels.

China’s secret, picturesque destinations offer another side of this unique country, a glimpse into the past of a place where expansion is constant and where the peaceful may one day be eclipsed by the hustle and bustle of an ever-growing population.

For more information about customizing your own journey with Ker & Downey to China, contact your travel professional or speak to a China Specialist at www.kerdowney.com

The Deluxe Garden Villa comes standard with a private pool at the Banyan Tree Lijiang.

Local culture on display near the Banyan Tree Ringha.

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