Ker & Downey Winter Magazine 2009 by Ker & Downey

THE LUXURY MAGAZINE FOR WORLD TRAVELERS

The very BEST of

SOUTH AFRICA Winter 2009

JOUR NE Y

of a

LIFETIME

FINE DINING AT LE QUARTIER FRANCAIS

SPLENDORS OF THE CAPE

adventure

SHARK CAGE DIVING & WHALE WATCHING

2010

WEDDING + HONEYMOON PLANNER

BOLD TRAVEL: THE SOUTH AFRICAN KALAHARI

wildlife

SAMARA’S CHEETAHS

CONTENTS )) Winter 2009

THE FINE ART OF SERIOUS DINING

HAVEN ON THE BAY

Five-time winner of the S. Pellegrino award for Best Restaurant, Grand Chef Margot Janse continues to serve up unrivaled fine dining experiences at Le Quartier Francais.

Grootbos Private Nature Reserve is making quite a splash with its opportunity for luxury travelers to experience adventure and relaxation from the same destination.

WEDDING + HONEYMOON PLANNER 2010 With wedding season on the horizon, now is the time to start planning your destination wedding and honeymoon. From safari to winelands, the Ker & Downey world is yours.

www.kerdowney.com

GOOD SAMARATANS 27 THE Samara is just the place to outlet your inner philanthropist. Here you can conserve the cheetah, educate disadvantaged children, and reduce carbon emissions.

RESTORED 34 HOME History isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t just the past. It

can also be a reason for the present and the future, just like it is at Gorah Elephant Camp. Learn about Gorahâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s exciting past, even back to 1841.

IN THE BACKGROUND: Outdoor dinner by lamp at Bushmans Kloof. Learn more about the ancient cave paintings at Bushmans on page 22.

K ER & D OW NE Y

Winter 2009

THE ISSUE/PRESIDENT’S LETTER 06 INSIDE With an entire issue of Ker & Downey Magazine dedicated to South Africa, there’s plenty not to miss. See what our president has to say about this incredible country.

CORNER 11 RECIPE Le Quartier Francais’s Margot Janse whipped up something special for Ker & Downey readers to try. Take a look at her Buchu Gnocchi and try your hand at making it yourself!

22 The recently awarded “World’s Best Hotel” isn’t just famous CLASSIC ROCK ART

for its luxury accomodation. See what archeologists and culturalists have been dying to see at Bushmans Kloof.

OF A LIFETIME 25 JOURNEY Named one of National Geographic Traveler’s Top 50

Tours of a Lifetime, Ker & Downey’s Splendors of the Cape makes for a great vacation.

DESERT LUXURY 30 UNLIKELY The Kalahari in South Africa has always been known as

an inhospitable terrain; but, with the help of Nick Oppenheimers luxury lodge, thats all starting to change.

PHOTO HUNT 33 THE Ker & Downey is hosting a contest for the best photo-

graphic skills in the field. Send us your best photos and if you win, we’ll put you in the next issue of Ker & Downey Magazine.

4 Winter 2009 |

KER & D OW NE Y

the SOUTH AFRICA

issue

Winter Magazine 2009 Executive Editor: Andrew Littmann Contributing Editors: David Marek, David Jones Content Writer: Andrew Littmann Advertising Manager: David Jones Layout and Design: Andrew Littmann Other Contributors: Susan Huxter, Ian Hunter, Michael Lutzeyer, Sarah Tompkins, Margot Janse, Madeleine Goodman, Jill Wagner ON THE COVER: An African boma. Tswalu’s Kalahari location is a unique one, offering amazing luxury and activity you can read more about in Unlikely Desert Luxury as seen on page 30. For future advertising consideration: Contact 281.371.2500 or alittmann@kerdowney.com

Photography credits include: Samara Game Reserve, Tswalu Kalahari, Bushmans Kloof, Tintswalo Atlantic, Babajaga/ Dmitrijs Bindemanis/ Nickolay Stanev/ Tomas Daliman courtesy of Shutterstock, Le Quartier Francais, Grootbos, Londolozi, Royal Malewane, Pezula Resorts, Azura, Four Seasons Mauritius, La Residence, Birkenhead House, Sandpiper Guest Cottages, Gallas/EcoView courtesy of Fotolia, South African Tourism Board, Gorah Elephant Camp, Karen Blixen Camp, Socrates courtesy of Dreamstime, Singita Game Reserves *This magazine is a publication of Ker & Downey. The views and opinions expressed in this magazine belong to contributors and writers and may not reflect the views and opinions of Ker & Downey.

{

WORD of M O U T H

}

SUSAN HUXTER Le Quartier Francais The luxury of traveling to South Africa is not just the extroadinary range of lodges, hotels, and food, but the luxury of taking time to breathe in the natural beauty, the luxury of enjoying experiences that will stay with you forever, the luxury of watching the African sunset, the luxury of discovering new fauna and flora, the luxury of time spent with friends and loved ones. The luxury of a trip to Africa is that your life will be changed forever and you will leave part of yourself in Africa!

Sunset view from Table Mountain

Wining, Dining & Adventuring SOUTH AFRICA IS A LAND WHERE ANYTHING IS POSSIBLE; after all, that’s the SA Tourism Board’s big slogan. It’s the kind of place you don’t forget very easily, if ever; a place where memories are taught to last a lifetime. Often the subject of notable travel magazines like Conde Nast, National Geographic Adventure, and Travel + Leisure, South Africa is an immensely esteemed luxury destination with booming tourism, and there’s never been a better time to go. If it’s incredible food you’re craving, try The Tasting Room at Le Quartier Francais, or Tswalu for desert trekking, or Grootbos for whale watching and shark cage diving. But don’t forget about the good you can do while you’re traveling. There are plenty of philanthropic opportunities in South Africa, like the ones at Samara. So before you go and book your trip to South Africa for 2010, whether you’re going to see the World Cup or just to get away on safari or to the winelands, look over the interior pages to see what’s on the list for the best of South Africa this year.

LETTER FROM THE PRESIDENT A friend asked me “What makes South Africa so different from the rest of Africa?” It didn’t take long to answer her because South Africa does seem so “set apart” from the rest of Africa. Nowhere else in Africa can you find the combination of wildlife, winelands, beaches, cuisine, adventure, and pristine environment as you will find in South Africa. And the amazing thing is that it is all done with such grace and style that one must wonder, “Am I truly in Africa”? Enjoy this issue of our magazine fully dedicated to South Africa. There is no place on earth like it. David Marek

6 Winter 2009 |

KER & D OW NE Y

IAN HUNTER Gorah Elephant Camp Iconic figure and great statesman, Nelson Mandela epitomises the ‘Rainbow Nation’ that our modern South Africa has become renowned for, and with the cultural mix, 2010 World Cup Soccer focus, the wilderness and contrasting landscapes from the Western Cape to the far northern parts of Limpopo, the East coast sandy tropical beaches and the dramatic West coast with its white undulating sand dunes and clear blue waters, ultimately invites the international traveller to sample a ‘World in One ‘ country for an incredibly memorable experience. MICHAEL LUTZEYER Grootbos Nature Reserve Having purchased Grootbos in 1991, I realized at an early stage the significance of the South African Cape’s flora and fauna as a potential tourism attraction. Today, eco tourism is beginning to flourish and Grootbos has grown from a small beginning with relatively limited finances to a world class, five-star property with two eco-lodges catering for up to eighty guests. I owe the succes of Grootbos to South Africa’s very unique, natural and cultural attributes.

Giraffe sleep two out of every twenty four hours. Out here, dining by the flickering flames under the acacia and their watchful gaze, I didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t want the night to end either. Go to www.southafrica.net

T H E

FINE A RT OF

serious Dining

+ A WELL KNOWN RESPITE FROM ORDINARY GASTRONOMY, THE FAMOUS LE QUARTIER FRANCAIS IS IN THE SERIOUS BUSINESS OF HAUTE DINING THANKS TO GRAND CHEF MARGOT JANSE AND HER DETERMINATION TO BE THE BEST IN THE BUSINESS

8 Winter 2009 |

KER & D OW NE Y

K ER & D OW NE Y

Winter 2009

SERIOUS DINING FOR THOSE WHO AREN’T FAMILIAR with the South African dining scene, the boutique LE QUARTIER FRANCAIS is not just any fine dining hot spot. It’s much more. It’s ambrosia. Away from the rigamorole of a regular South African dining circuit at overpriced city restaurants, Le Quartier Francais is comfortably set in the quiet Franschhoek region, a place known for exquisite wines, gourmet cheeses, and peaceful scenery. Here, you’ll get only what you pay for. The best. Originally begun by Susan Huxter as a restaurant and wine venture, Le Quartier was modeled after the best of premier French restaurants, serving not only gourmet food, but offering overnight accomodations for its guests as well. At Le Quartier, guests can choose from several different room types: grande rooms, auberge suites, garden suites, or even a cottage or a village house, all providing luxurious comfort in close proximity to the Le Quartier kitchen and its two restaurants, The Tasting Room and the iCi Restaurant, run by Grand Chef Margot Janse. Together, Margot and Le Quartier have built an unimposed reputation for haute cuisine, winning five consecutive S. Pellegrino

10 Winter 2009 |

KER & D OW NE Y

IN THE KITCHEN clockwise from top left: Grand Chef Margot Janse; an afternoon at the pool; view on the Le Quartier yard; dining at the iCi Restaurant; Margot Janse and Neil Jewell

Le Quartier Francais is a must see on any journey to South Africa. It is a relaxing end to safari, a necessary stop on a culinary journey, and a peaceful haven for Franschhoek wanderers. As one guest puts it, “I travel the world staying at the best hotels but when I woke up this morning, I felt like I was at home.” Ker & Downey’s GOURMET SOUTH AFRICA is a delectable journey featuring the Le Quartier Francais and its world renowned restaurant, The Tasting Room. To learn more about this journey, visit www.kerdowney.com or call the reservation number at 800.423.4236.

recipe corner B U CHU GNO CCHI

Awards for its prestigious gathering of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants. Margot first got her start with Le Quartier as a sous chef nearly fourteen years ago and has worked her way to where she is now, taking charge of The Tasting Room. But the Pellegrino awards have only made her strive to be better. “We now have expecations to match. We have to keep raising the bar for ourselves,” says Susan Huxter. And while this may seem hard to do year after year, Margot’s determination is proved in The Tasting Room. This restaurant is the experience highlight of Le Quartier Francais, a place where the world’s gourmands flock to taste for themselves the culinary art of Margot Janse. The Tasting Room is exclusively open in the evenings for dinner, offering exquisite and constantly evolving five and eight-course tasting menus, with or without wines. “It is a whole evening of surprises and pushing the taste buds - a real food adventure - offering different flavors and a real introduction to South African cooking in a modern way,” says Susan.

• 600 gr of Baked potato flesh (21 oz) • 125 gr of ‘00’ flour (4.5 oz) • 125 gr of grated Parmesan (4.5 oz) • 1 Egg • 1 Egg yolk • 1 tsp Salt • 5 tsp Buchu leaves, chopped fine Directions for cooking: Preheat oven to 200˚C. Spread the rock salt on a tray and place the potatoes on top of it. Place in the oven for about 2 hours until potatoes are soft in the middle Cut the potatoes in half and push the flesh through a fine sieve. Mix the flour, parmesan, eggs and chopped buchu with the mashed potato.

R ECIPE COURTESY OF LE QUARTIER FR ANCAIS

K ER & D OW NE Y

Winter 2009

))

HAVEN on the

bay

+ ADRENALINE-PUMPING ADVENTURE AND BEACHSIDE RELAXATION AREN’T TWO THINGS THAT TYPICALLY GO HAND IN HAND; BUT ON SOUTH AFRICA’S GANSBAAI SHORES, GROOTBOS IS MAKING ITS MARK IN LUXURY TRAVEL BY COMBINING THE TWO.

K ER & D OW NE Y

Winter 2009

WHILE THERE MAY BE A HOST OF PLACES along the South African coast that claim to be private escapes, none is quite as secluded as the exclusive GROOTBOS PRIVATE NATURE RESERVE. In fact, you won’t even know it’s there until you arrive at the front door. And while Grootbos is a truly secluded getaway, it’s unique in the fact that there are adventures here unlike any other in South Africa. This Eden of fynbos and milkwood trees is the perfect accompaniment to the ebb and flow of the Gansbaai tide, which is home to much more than meets the eye. The Gansbaai offers a vantage point for one of the most spectacular sights in all of Africa, the Southern Right Whale. Southern Right Whales are large baleen whales, as the average size of an adult is approximately 50 feet long, and some grow even larger. This species has a three year breeding cycle, with each female producing one calf every three years. But the interesting thing: they migrate to the sheltered bays of Grootbos to have their calves. In season, Ker & Downey guests will get to experience the whales at Grootbos aboard the Whale 14 Winter 2009 |

KER & D OW NE Y

Whisperer, a specialized sightseeing boat setting out from Grootbos to Dyer Island. Along the way, guests will have incredible photographic opportunities of not only the Southern Right Whale, but also the Humpback whale, Bryde’s whales, a sixty thousand strong Cape Fur Seal colony, and the African penguins. Each trip is led by experienced marine guides who will share their knowledge, keeping a strong emphasis on the welfare and conservation of the animals, as Grootbos is known for doing.

HAVEN ON THE BAY

“NONE IS QUITE AS SECLUDED AS THE EXCLUSIVE GROOTBOS PRIVATE NATURE RESERVE.” And if whale watching isn’t adventurous enough, there’s also shark cage diving at Grootbos. As you venture out on the water with the experienced staff, your guides will throw a mixture known as “chum” into the water (a potion of fish and other food sources which attracts the shark). Once the shark is spotted and within a close distance, guests can choose to enter the shark cage attached to the side of the boat, where they will come face to face with the most feared predator of the ocean without being in danger. However, those that prefer to stay dry can still spot sharks from above the water as the boat provides excellent shark viewing for great photography. But beyond all the adventure, what makes Grootbos such a coveted destination is its fabulous intertwining with five star luxury. The two elegant eco-lodges, Garden and Forest, are an invitation to pampering with fireplaces, airy bedrooms,

and wooden decks with GANSBAAI ADVENTURE spectacular sea views. clockwise from top left: having a whale of a time; evening at the There are extra length lodge; a Duane Lewis creation; beds with down duvets and view over the reserve; Grootbos Garden Lodge a private coffee facility and minibar. The lodge also boasts incredible cuisine. Led by Executive Chef Duane Lewis, Grootbos dining is crafted from the finest and freshest local ingredients, drawing inspiration from the abundance of scents and colors in nature around them. Lewis promises magical combinations that will replenish and inspire the body and soul. Other activities to take in are horseback riding or trail walking. A gallop or walk through the fynbos gardens may be just what’s needed after an adventurous day out on the water. To learn more about how you can take your next vacation to the magical haven of the GROOTBOS PRIVATE NATURE RESERVE visit our website at www.kerdowney.com or start planning with a Ker & Downey South African specialist at 800.423.4236. K ER & D OW NE Y

Winter 2009

Destinations: Safari

Londolozi Samara Royal Malewane

Cape Coast

Pezula Castle Birkenhead House

The Winelands

La Residence Le Quartier Francais

Island

Azura Four Seasons Mauritius 16 Winter 2009 |

KER & D OW NE Y

2010

WEDDING + HONEYMOON

PLANNER ))

WEDDING SEASON FAST APPROACHES AND THE TIME TO START PLANNING YOUR DESTINATION WEDDING AND HONEYMOON IS NOW. WE HAVE A WHOLE WORLD OF CHOICES FOR YOU TO CHOOSE FROM, BUT HERE ARE A FEW TO GET YOU STARTED

K ER & D OW NE Y

Winter 2009

Chic Safari Style AN AUTHENTIC SAFARI WEDDING is anything but ordinary. Miles away from city traffic, stuffy churches, and cliché hotel ballrooms, a safari wedding and honeymoon can be just the cure to the common wedding cold. Just imagine the scene: the expanse of the African sky, a warm and comfortable sun, and the call of the wild your witness to a blessed ceremony. While safari weddings and honeymoons may not be as familiar as other destination ceremonies, their popularity, even among celeb circles, has certainly been increasing. Royal family’s Peter Phillips, eldest grandchild of Queen Elizabeth, recently exchanged Great Britain for the wide open plains of South Africa as he and his new bride, Autumn Kelly, enjoyed a honeymoon hideaway at Madikwe. Peter and Autumn came face to face with the king of the jungle as they snapped pictures while on safari. If it’s extraordinary you’re looking for, try a Ker & Downey safari. More information on Ker & Downey safaris can be found at www.kerdowney.com. To speak directly to a safari wedding specialist, call 800.423.4236 or info@kerdowney.com.

K&D insight

TO DO’S:

clockwise from top left: Londolozi’s cozy Pioneer Camp; Londolozi’s main living area; The Waters at Royal Malewane; terrace breakfast at Samara

Safari nuptials are gaining popularity even among pop celebrity circles. South Africa is their # 1 destination

Full wedding planning is available at Londolozi, including catering, cake, spa and beauty, champagne, flowers, photography, and a minister as well as exclusive luxury lodge accommodations for your entire wedding party. This elegant bushveld getaway is the ultimate in romantic indulgences.

SAMARA Surrounded by mountains in the heart of the Eastern Cape, Samara ceremonies can be held in the beautiful outdoors overlooking the Camdeboo Plains or indoors at the luxurious Manor. Local florists, dress shops, and tuxes are nearby, and Samara offers full catering, cake, and beverages.

ROYAL MALEWANE Book the lodge exclusively for your wedding party or indulge in your romantic fantasies in the exclusive honeymoon suite. This unique venue is a favorite of celebrities and specializes in exclusive luxury, providing full service for everything you need on your special day.

Daily game drives, cheetah tracking experiences, bush walks, star gazing, couples massages, Shangaan cultural experience

Sunrise and sunset yoga classes, Karoo cooking classes Splendors of the Cape, Gourmet South Africa

18 Winter 2009 |

* LONDOLOZI

A NEW TRADITION

KER & D OW NE Y

RELATED JOURNEYS:

Elegant South Africa, On Safari in Southern Africa,

))

Breezy Cape Coast THE COASTAL CAPE AREA, a cool, peaceful abundance of endless beach, crashing waves, and Indian Ocean breeze, makes for a beautiful backdrop for a summer wedding. Do the words “barefoot luxury” come to mind? Take your shoes off, have your ceremony in the sand, or say your “I do’s” under the African sunset from the cliffs of Hermanus. But don’t worry. Staying at the beach isn’t your only option. Newlyweds can also take in the excitement of local Cape Town. There’s the V&A Waterfont, world shopping, exquisite fine dining, South African wine, and even adventurous Cape Peninsula tours and authentic game drive safaris. More information on Ker & Downey’s coastal destinations can be found at www.kerdowney.com. To speak directly to a wedding specialist, call 800.423.4236 or info@kerdowney.com.

K&D insight

TO DO’S:

BAREFOOT LUXURY clockwise from right: Verandah at Pezula; eventide at Birkenhead; walking at Pezula

The Coast makes a spectacular summer wedding, so kick off your dancing shoes and get in the water

* PEZULA CASTLE

An extraordinary luxury venue, Pezula is large enough to accommodate your guests while you can enjoy exclusive solitude at the “Castle” that is nestled along a breathtaking beach. Your ceremony is held along a private beach – a breathtaking backdrop of crashing waves and golden sand- and the exclusive luxury of your own private castle. Your own fairy-tale dreams come true.

* BIRKENHEAD HOUSE

Perched high on the cliffs of Hermanus, overlooking Walker Bay, Birkenhead House and the adjacent villa accommodate guests in the utmost luxury. A breathtaking view of the Indian Ocean is your backdrop and high-styled wedding planners are at your service. Ker & Downey guests will be able to book the entire hotel for the exclusive use of their wedding party.

Beach walking, trekking tours, whale watching in season, shopping, museums, art galleries, nearby beach activities, golf,

tennis, canoeing, excursions to Cape Town, horseback riding

RELATED JOURNEYS:

Cape to Cairo, Oceans and Wildlife

K ER & D OW NE Y

))

Winter 2009

Wineland Elegance AKIN TO A LITTLE TUSCANY, the winelands region of South Africa, particularly Franschhoek, provides the beauty and elegance of an Italian villa in the Western Cape of South Africa. Renown for its sweeping valleys and dramatic mountain tops, the winelands are a pleasant and romantic host for couples and newlyweds. There is a jovial, lighthearted sense in the valley as good food, fine wine, and shared laughter are always promised for great rehearsal get-togethers and celebration day dinners. Couples will have plenty of opportunity for post-nuptial fun at the local wine and cheese farms, chocolatiers, and at the dining hotspots around the valley. More information on wineland destinations in South Africa can be found at www.kerdowney.com. To speak directly to a wedding specialist, call 800.423.4236 or info@kerdowney.com.

K&D insight

TO DO’S:

clockwise from left: The courtyard at La Residence; Franschhoek vineyard; a happy winelands occasion

The winelands are a perfect mixture of a home grown good feeling and stunning scenery

LA RESIDENCE La Residence is an elegant French country chateau situated in South Africa’s Cape Winelands. This small, exclusive venue can be booked by your party and the services of your private butler and chef will create a fantasy wedding, the likes of which you will never forget. This award-winning property is the exclusive favorite of celebrities and discerning travelers alike.

* LE QUARTIER FRANCAIS

This exclusive boutique hotel is situated in the heart of the Franschhoek in the Cape Winelands. Tucked away in secluded gardens, it offers a delightful haven of peace and tranquility. Couples can enjoy the “Honey and Soul” package, inclusive of full breakfasts, massages, romantic turndowns with Môreson wines, and large, exclusive accomodations.

Tours of the winelands, gourmet cheese and wine tastings and pairings, tours of the local olive oil farms, African chocolate

tastings, 5 and 8 course fine dining

20 Winter 2009 |

LITTLE ITALY

KER & D OW NE Y

RELATED JOURNEYS:

Gourmet South Africa, Wine and Wildlife

))

Island Romance WHILE BEACHES LIKE THOSE IN MEXICO are always drawing large quantities of newlyweds every year for day-of ceremonies and discounted week-long honeymoon stays, isn’t it defeating the purpose to plan a romantic getaway for you and your spouse around other people? If it’s warm beaches and hot fun in the sun you’re looking for, try some place with a little more privacy like Mozambique or the dishy island of Mauritius. With Ker & Downey’s options in these sun-splashed destinations, you’ll have plenty of privacy and impeccable five-star service, just when you need it and not a moment sooner. More information on Ker & Downey’s island destinations can be found at www.kerdowney.com. To speak directly to a wedding specialist, call 800.423.4236 or info@kerdowney.com.

K&D insight

TO DO’S:

SOLITARY BLISS clockwise from top: Dining at the Four Seasons; solitude on the water; budding Mozambique love

Don’t get caught up on the overcrowded beaches; get a little privacy for your wedding and honeyoon

* AZURA

Imagine a deserted beach with only you and your wedding party in the middle of a tropical paradise...this is Azura. Here, fifteen luxury chalets are large enough to accommodate your wedding party, guests and relatives, yet small enough to provide exclusive privacy. The staff will cater your wedding dinner with candlelit tables in your secluded beachside hideaway.

* FOUR SEASONS MAURITIUS

Celebrate your new life as a couple on the island inspired by heaven. Cocooned by a private sanctuary on the beaches of a vast and serene lagoon, this secluded hideaway embraces blue-water and greenmountain views that stretch to the horizon. Discover side-by-side bliss in the overwater holistic spa or simply soak in the sun on the white sandy beaches.

Diving, fishing, snorkeling, swimming, sun-bathing, water skiing, windsurfing, parasailing, kayaking, private cove visits,

journey to historic Ibo Island

RELATED JOURNEYS:

Southern African Romance

K ER & D OW NE Y

)) Winter 2009

CLASSIC

rock

art

))

+ THE RECENTLY DECLARED ‘WORLD’S BEST HOTEL’ BY TRAVEL + LEISURE MAGAZINE IS HOME TO ONE OF THE WORLD’S OLDEST RECORDED CULTURAL SITES...EVEN OLDER THAN THE PYRAMIDS

22 Winter 2009 |

KER & D OW NE Y

K ER & D OW NE Y

Winter 2009

CLASSIC ROCK { ART }

paintings left behind. The paintings have been carbon dated between 2,000 and 10,000 years old, each one a window into the lives of the San people, how they lived in harmony with nature, and their spiritual connection to animals and the environment. Together Bushmans Kloof and Siyakha Mguni document and research all of the known rock-art sites, as well as potential new sites on the reserve, to create a database linked to a Geographic Information System (GIS) platform, to ensure the integrity of these sites for future generations. For Ker & Downey guests at BushWALL WRITING clockwise mans Kloof, there are daily from top left: Art history 101; an evening in the Kloof rock art excursions that take place in the cool mornings as you trek up into the Cederberg, IF THE SAYING - the older you get, the more stories you where a light bush breakfast accompanies a flora and fauna tell - holds true, then the Cederberg Mountains could write a lesson from your guide. In the evenings, archeologist Siyakha storybook the size of Tolstoy’s War and Peace. Pushing Mguni offers the chance to learn directly from his notes on the San rock art during pre-dinner presentanearly five hundred million years old, these rocky majesties have seen the beginning of “THEY COME HERE TO tions. Ker & Downey guests can also enjoy the life and its slow and steady transformation SEE WHAT HAS BEEN intriguing game at Bushmans on game drives, mountain bikes, or on foot. Among a host of into what we know of the world today. But WRITTEN IN THE PAST... wildlife, a recent reintroduction program has no one goes to the Cederberg Mountains ON THE ANCIENT seen an increase of the nearly extinct Cape to get some perspective on the stories of Mountain Zebra, as well as the return of the today; no, they come here to see what has CAVE WALLS...” magnificent Bontebok, Red Hartebeest, and been written in the past from grandfather cultures on the ancient cave walls at BUSHMANS KLOOF. Grey Rhebok. Bushmans Kloof also offers award-winning luxury accommodation for adventurers taking time out in the This area of the Cederberg was originally inhabited by the Cederberg, recently recognized by Travel + Leisure Magazine as San, the aboriginal people of Southern Africa. Their distinct the World’s Best Hotel in 2009. hunter-gatherer culture stretches back over 20,000 years, while their true genetics have roots over one million years To learn more about Ker & Downey’s journeys to the famous rock art at old. Bushmans Kloof, with the help of resident archeologist BUSHMANS KLOOF, visit www.kerdowney.com or call reservations at 800.423.4236. Siyakha Mguni, have been studying the San and their cave 24 Winter 2009 |

KER & D OW NE Y

Splendors of the Cape The search for your next vacation is over. As one of the Top 50 Tours of a Lifetime, this is what youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been waiting for ]

ALTHOUGH SOUTH AFRICA IS LITTERED WITH GAME RESERVES, there is plenty to do along its Southern Coast outside of seeing the Big 5. This 15-day journey will take you to all of the important oceanic havens and reserves and is easily customized for anyone looking to add or subtract. Experience everything from breathtaking, ancient beaches where you can witness the Southern Right whale during its migratory season along the Garden Route to the plains of the Great Karoo at Samara Private Game Reserve. Witness incredible sightings of the African Penguin or get up close and personal to a great white shark. Encompassing Cape Town, Mossel Bay, Boggamsbaai, Gansbaai, Shamwari, and the Great Karoo, Splendors of the Cape is a sojourn into the heart of a true African experience.

K ER & D OW NE Y

Winter 2009

/ MAPPED OUT d. THE OYSTERCATCHER TRAIL | Walking and hiking along the coast to Boggamsbaai is

W HER E IN T HE WOR LD :

a sight full of the black African Oystercatchers. With your guide, discover the Oystercatcher nests, eggs and chicks. Explore ancient shell middens; the oldest in the world, around 140,000 years old, are from the Middle Stone Age of Africa. Glorious tidal pools, teeming with energy and life, abound on this beach.

ZIMBABWE

a. THE PRISON OF NELSON MANDELA |

Among all the other excitement of Cape Town like great food, good wine, and the scenic Waterfront, Robben Island is a rare experience, and a private tour with an ex-political prisoner guide is even rarer. Spend some time on the “humbling” and see Nelson Mandela’s own prison cell.

MOZAMBIQUE BOTSWANA

Kruger National Park

Johannesburg

NAMIBIA

c. THE 40 CAVES |

l Vaa

Orange

A hike from St. Blaize to the Khoi San proves to be regenerating as you see the waves crash over 40 different caves to explore.

Springbok

LESOTHO

f Cape Town

The Great Karoo

a Boggamsbaai

Gansbaai

Mossel Bay

d c

e Shamwari Indian Ocean

b. PENGUINS, SHARKS, AND WHALES | The Grootbos Private Nature Reserve plays host

to a wealth of seaborne activity. No matter what adventure level you’re looking for, Grootbos has an activity to fit. For the adrenaline seekers, take a turn in a submerged cage with a great white shark; for the naturalists, check out the Southern Right Whales who migrate here annually to breed; and if those don’t float your boat, get out to Dyer Island to see the rare African penguins and the 60,000 Cape Fur Seals.

26 Winter 2009 |

SHAMWARI GAME | Amid morning and afternoon game drives of the Big 5, visit the Born Free Foundation designed for animal rescue.

SOUTH AFRICA

Atlantic Ocean

DAY DAY DAY DAY DAY DAY DAY DAY

SWAZILAND

KER & D OW NE Y

DAY DAY DAY DAY DAY DAY DAY

CAMDEBOO BY NIGHT | Drive the Great Plains of Camdeboo by night and you’ll see wildlife like never before atop the high canyon walls, including the Cape Mountain Zebra, which became nearly extinct in the 1930’s.

+ SUSTAINABLE ECO-TOURISM HAS BECOME AN IMPORTANT ASPECT IN LUXURY TRAVEL AROUND THE WORLD, AND IT IS NO MORE VIBRANT TODAY THAN IN SOUTH AFRICA. BUT AMONG ALL THOSE WHO ARE JUST NOW PUSHING PHILANTHROPY, THERE IS ONE WHO HAS BEEN DOING IT ALL ALONG...

GOOD T HE

samara))tans

))

K ER & D OW NE Y

Winter 2009

To learn more about Ker & Downey journeys to the South African Kalahari and the TSWALU KALAHARI visit www.kerdowney.com or call reservations at 800.423.4236 28 Winter 2009 |

KER & D OW NE Y

THE GOOD SAMARATANS

“PHILANTHROPY ISN’T JUST ANOTHER GREAT TRAVEL ‘TREND’...IT’S A LOVE, A PASSION, A CARE FOR THE WELL-BEING OF THE WORLD...” YOU HEAR A LOT TODAY ABOUT THE new “trend” in philanthropic travel or the “trend” in sustainable travel, but isn’t this kind of thinking missing the whole point? Philanthropy isn’t just another great travel “trend” to bring in money when the economy is bad. Philanthropy is a moral standard; it’s a love, a passion, and a care for the well-being of the world and its inhabitants, a love you’ll see when you travel with Ker & Downey to SAMARA. Owner Sarah Tompkins describes her Samara as a “heart-stoppingly beautiful” place. Set amid open plains between an amphitheatre of mountains, the 70,000 acres of private Karoo bushveld offers breathtaking and far-reaching views over four biospheres and sixty mammal species including Cape Mountain Zebra, Rhino, Buffalo, and Cheetah. But the views at Samara are just the beginning of its captivating character. Samara’s mission statement shows a beautiful passion for true conservation, a mission to restore the biodiversity in the Great Karoo. One of the most encouraging progams at Samara is its A BEAUTIFUL PASSION cheetah conservation, an ongoing effort to protect a popuclockwise from top left: Cheetah observation; view from lation dwindled to under nine hundred in South Africa. It the Manor House; sumptious began with the story of Sibella, a cheetah rescued from Karoo cuisine; romantic outdoor dining; children exploring; sunset savage captivity and brutal mistreatment and released in on Samara rhino. Samara in 2003. It was there that she found comfort in her new home along with two other males released into Samara. Despite suffering the occasional twinge from her previous injuries, Sibella has proved herself to be a capable hunter and mother, now contributing to two percent of the wild cheetah population in South Africa. Samara is also very involved with its local community, specifically with Graaff-Reinet, home to over ninety percent of the lodge staff. As part of their vision to make a positive impact in and around the reserve, Samara invites children from previously disadvantaged backgrounds to come out and explore the grounds on a regular basis. Also, in association with the mayor of Graaff-Reinet, Daantjies Jafta, Samara organizes educational visits for the local schools, where the children are able to experience the magic of the Samara wilderness and learn about the country’s growing eco-tourism industry. The children are also able to take part in Samara’s effort to reduce carbon levels in the atmosphere. By helping Sarah plant Spekboom, a carbon reducing plant that grows predominantly in the Eastern Cape, the children are excited by their hands-on participation in such an important cause. Aside from the important projects at Samara, this beautiful land is also an escape where you can come to relax. Sarah calls it a place that “captures the very imaginations and the souls of people.” There is a very authentic Karoo experience at Samara, which includes two different luxury accomodations to choose from, incredible Karoo cuisine, and a wonderful experience on game drive or by foot in the bush. It is a place not easily forgotten and the impact you can make by supporting Samara through Ker & Downey is a lasting one. To learn more about the impact you can have on conserving the cheetahs or on the Graaff-Reinet community at SAMARA, log on to www.kerdowney.com or call reservations at 800.423.4236 to get some more information on how to include Samara in your next journey to South Africa. K ER & D OW NE Y

Winter 2009

T H E

K A L A H A R I :

unl i k e l y

desert Luxury

+ THE SOUTH AFRICAN KALAHARI HAS ALWAYS BEEN KNOWN AS A HARSH ENVIRONMENT, WITH FEW PLACES TO STAY AND LITTLE TO DO. BUT DE BEERS DIAMOND MAGNATE NICK OPPENHEIMER HAS TURNED IT INTO SOMETHING MUCH MORE WITH A LITTLE PLACE CALLED TSWALU

30 Winter 2009 |

KER & D OW NE Y

K ER & D OW NE Y

Winter 2009

UNLIKELY DESERT LUXURY REACHING ITS SUNSET ARMS ACROSS the endless space of Botswana, Namibia, and even South Africa, the Kalahari is an impressive expanse of an atypical desert. In fact, it really isn’t a true desert in the normal sense of the word. Most of it is just an arid plains region with sparse grass, coarsely spotted in thorny trees and dried up waterways that look more like old scars. To the untrained eye, the Kalahari would simply be a barren waste of time; but there are those who can see beneath the surface and Nicky Oppenheimer is one of them. Yes, the Oppenheimers, as in De Beers. Diamond’s royal famOASIS IN THE DESERT ily first purchased the TSWALU GAME RESERVE in 1999 with clockwise from top right: Motse bedroom; dinner prepared the simple goals of “restoring the Kalahari to itself,” and to at the Tswalu boma; main deck make Tswalu one of the premier wildlife destinations in Africa. and plunge pool; lounging under the sala. Prior to the Oppenheimers, the land surrounding the Tswalu was poorly managed with little care for the environment, making it almost indistinguishable as authentically African. However, thanks to the restoration of land, the destruction of dams, the removal of houses and fences, and the reintroduction of indigenous game including the rare desert black rhino, sable and roan antelope, lion and cheetah, it now resembles the heart of a real Africa that nature itself intended.

“DIAMOND’S ROYAL FAMILY FIRST PURCHASED TSWALU GAME RESERVE IN 1999 WITH THE SIMPLE GOAL OF RESTORING THE KALAHARI TO ITSELF...” As with anything else you could expect from the Oppenheimers, Tswalu is nothing shy of palatial, with two options for accommodation in the Kalahari. The Motse is comfortably set at the foot of the Korannaberg Mountains, consisting of eight spacious legae (a Tswana word for small house/suite), all of which have been designed to blend inconspicuously into the mountain range. The other choice, Tarkuni, is the De Beers chairman’s private house, a luxurious five-bedroom home withshowers, en suiteopen bathrooms, outdoor with en suite bathrooms, outdoor heated lounge and dining heated room, showers, open lounge and dining room, library, covered patio and swimming pool. There are plenty of horses and game vehicles for exploration along the sandy plains, rocky paths and mountain cliffs to see incredible game and ancient cave etchings left behind by natives. Tswalu is proof that there is unlikely beauty and luxury to be found amid the harsh Kalahari. To learn more about Ker & Downey journeys to the South African Kalahari and the TSWALU KALAHARI, visit www.kerdowney.com or call reservations at 800.423.4236.

32 Winter 2009 |

KER & D OW NE Y

{

THE

photo

HUNT

}

HOW TO ENTER: 1

FIND AN AMAZING PHOTO that you took on one of your world adventures.

SUBMIT YOUR ENTRY by email to alittmann@kerdowney.com and include a caption and the location of the photograph taken.

THE TOP FIVE FINALISTS will have their names and photographs showcased in the next issue of Ker & Downey Magazine and will receive a $500 discount on their next Ker & Downey journey!*

Not valid on any current or pending Ker & Downey bookings

HOME

restored ))

))

+ THE FIRST EVER CONCESSION TO BUILD A HOTEL INSIDE A SOUTH AFRICAN NATIONAL PARK WAS GIVEN TO IAN HUNTER; BUT INSTEAD OF BUILDING SOMETHING NEW, HE DECIDED TO RESTORE WHAT WAS THOUGHT TO BE LOST

34 Winter 2009 |

KER & D OW NE Y

K ER & D OW NE Y

Winter 2009

A HOME RESTORED

“IAN WAS ALWAYS DRAWN BACK TO THE ORIGINAL FARMHOUSE: A MAGNIFICENT REMNANT FALLEN ON HARD TIMES IN NEED OF A SAVIOR.” THERE HAS ALWAYS BEEN A RHYME AND REASON in the purpose of things, and GORAH ELEPHANT CAMP is no exception. You may think it odd that upon arrival you’ll discover the lack of electricity and air conditioning, or perhaps you’ll think of it as just another luxury safari camp attempting the “traditional” or “authentic” experience; but when you really dig beneath the surface of the Gorah, you’ll discover much more in a rich and beautiful history. It was 1854 when Catharina Hester Vermaak arrived in the Eastern Cape as the young bride of Thomas Anthony Mueller Vermaak, a kind and prosperous farmer on land known as Gorah, the Khoi Khoi word for 'spring'. Gorah was perhaps one of the wealthiest farms in the district under Hester, prospering from hard work and the boom in ostrich feathers. Hester herself became widely known for her lavish parties and warm hospitality; she was the matriarch of Gorah. But over time, Hester’s health faded and the frivolity, the happiness, and the bliss all eventually gave way to sullen despair as Gorah was sold HISTORY RESTORED from and lost in the ruins of drought, influenza, and World War top to bottom: Gorah game drive; specially prepared brunch; II. In 1998, however, Gorah’s luck began to turn. Now loview from the Gorah deck. cated within the Addo National Park boundaries, Ian Hunt er's group of hotels was given a concession – the first private concession ever awarded in a South African National Park – to run a lodge in the park. Despite searching for a location to build a brand new lodge, Ian was always drawn back to the original farmhouse: a magnificent remnant fallen on hard times in need of a savior. And so, the Gorah Elephant Camp was born. Today it is one of South Africa's top safari lodges, with 11 luxurious tented suites that recall the golden era of Hester’s reign, albeit updated with a few 21st century conveniences. Gorah maintains much of the “look and feel” of the original Manor House, filled with welcoming antique leather sofas, warm and inviting fireplaces, candle-lit passages and rooms, and elegant paraffin lanterns that light the great tree on the Gorah lawn. “It’s the exclusivity that makes Gorah so special,” says Ian Hunter. “This sense of place with the outlying luxury in the surrounding Addo bushveld is why guests are so enthralled by their experience here.” The game viewing at Gorah is just as remarkable as it once was, with even more opportunities for sightings inside the Addo National Park. Gorah holds the densest populations of elephant, buffalo, and black rhino of any national park, and an extraordinarily unique lion experience in the concession area. But perhaps the biggest attraction to Gorah are the elephants. The Addo elephant is slightly smaller than its Kruger counterpart and is more at ease with a gentle sense of purpose. Large herds move frequently throughout the day, often stopping by the waterhole near the house for an afternoon drink. Gorah is much more than a typical safari camp. If you listen closely, the whisper of its elegant history is still audible among the original walls of the Manor House, an enchanting story told to those who still believe. The best way to learn more about GORAH ELEPHANT CAMP’S incredibly rich history is to experience it for yourself. Log on to www.kerdowney.com or call reservations at 800.423.4236 to start planning your next trip to South Africa today. 36 Winter 2009 |

KER & D OW NE Y

The best airline to Africa. As the proud national carrier of South Africa, we know Africa better than any other airline. And because we’re African, we know what it means to indulge our passengers with a true African experience - a choice of great African and international cuisine, the finest in South African wines and our legendary African hospitality. When your plans include Africa, make sure they include South African Airways as your African odyssey will start from the moment you board.

Go See For Yourself.

• www.flysaa.com • 1-800-722-9675

6703 HIGHWAY BLVD. | KATY, TX 77494

Photograph by: Karen Blixen Camp