QUEST Magazine Issue 4 by Ker & Downey

t h e l u x u r y m a g a z i n e f o r w o r l d t r av e l e r s

new delhi

T h e g a l Ă pa g o s i s l a n d s

ta n z a n i a

oman

WAKE UP WHEN YOU HAVE TO. NOT WHEN YOUR NEIGHBOR DOES. Your sleep should always be as nonstop as your flight. Which is why Delta offers more BusinessElite® flat-bed seats with direct aisle access than any other airline, so your slumber will never be interrupted by an “Excuse me” again. And with Westin Heavenly® In-Flight Bedding, your shut-eye will be as comfortable as it is long. So go ahead and settle in–the only thing that should wake you up is your destination.

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EXPERIENCE MAKES FOR A STRONGER TAILWIND.

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a letter from the president

The winter season calls to mind a sense of nostalgia, of quiet moments with the ones we love and the cozy warmth of holiday celebrations. Many may claim that it is a time to hibernate, but we at Ker & Downey believe otherwise. If anything, winter affords us the perfect opportunity to unplug from the routine, pioneer new family traditions and celebrate the season in style. This issue of QUEST is dedicated to thawing the winter chill and sparking your imagination with all that is new and exciting this season: the hottest destinations, must-have experiences and openings, the trailblazing journeys through unexplored corners of the globe and the generous warmth of innovators in the field. So come warm up with us as we discover the new, the untouched and the good our world has to offer. Begin with what’s new. We are thrilled to highlight some of the incredible “firsts” in the industry, such as wellness guru Mary Bemis’ review of the freshly minted Hotel Bellevue on Croatia’s Lošinj “Island of Vitality” and our Arrivals features on Liz Biden’s unrivaled One Above Penthouse in Cape Town, the most impressive and expensive piece of real estate ever sold in Africa. We revisit a favorite and most-intriguing city, Istanbul, and see it through the eyes of writer Erin Weinger as if for the first time. And we check into hotspot, The Peninsula Paris. For this issue’s style section, our Editor in Chief Martine Bury curates the best of the best in luxury products. From Burberry scarves and classic globe-trotter luggage in the gift guide, to her conversation with Jaguar Design Director Ian Callum about his new Mark 2 by Callum car and his favorite road trips, to an assemblage of the best watches for travelers—there is something for everyone. Next, venture into the untouched with Kelly Phillips Badal as she explores Tanzania’s Namiri Plains Camp in Soit Le Motonyi, a recently re-opened piece of the Serengeti where masses of tourists have yet to arrive and the land feels as if it is wholly yours. You will find yourself falling in love with mysterious Oman through the eyes of former resident Lesley McKenzie and wishing for a week with Eric Rosen uncovering the untold cultural riches of Myanmar. Finally, get to know the good and meet some of the revolutionary philanthropists making an impact on communities around the globe. Whether it’s Lululemon Athletica’s Chip and Shannon Wilson and their Imagine1Day nonprofit, NFL star Larry Fitzgerald’s commitment to missions with Oxfam and Starkey Hearing Foundation or Blake Mycoskie’s TOMS One for One business model, we are honored to profile those making a game-changing difference for a better world. There has never been a better time to travel, and no one does it quite like us at Ker & Downey. This winter, we hope you will allow Ker & Downey to handcraft an itinerary full of memories your friends and family will cherish for a lifetime.

David Marek President

K E R & DOWNEY

contents Pg. 112

fall/winter 2014

e xplor at ion s

70 sands of time Lesley McKenzie revisits the romance of her childhood playground in beautiful Oman.

78 new delhi now Martine Bury reveals New Delhi’s colorful modern city life.

8 a-list The Season’s Must-have Experiences

10 arrivals Openings, Revamps and the Latest Travel News

The Guide Insider Secrets of Luxury Travel

style

88 above & below Michael McQuarn explores the Galápagos Islands and the cloud forest of Ecuador.

The Art of Jet-Setting

49 flights Fresh Takes on Great Getaways

100

108

the unexplored serengeti

the itinerary

Kelly Phillips Badal uncovers Tanzania’s untouched Soit Le Motonyi region.

A Week in Myanmar

112

the experience Luang Prabang

116

the shot on the cover:

One picture, one moment, one memory by photographer Andrew Hancock.

let’s connect o n th e web quest.kerdowney.com

fac e b o o k facebook.com/ QUESTmagazineKD

tw i tt er @QUESTmagKD

e m ai l info@kerdowney.com

p h one 800.423.4236 +1.281.371.2500

Staff spotlight amy willis Art Director/Designer As Ker & Downey’s staff graphic designer, Amy serves as the sole designer and art director of QUEST magazine. A native Texan, Amy has had the privilege of traveling to several countries, and got to experience the world of luxury travel when she took her first Ker & Downey trip to China. In her spare time she can be found at the gym where she trains as an amateur boxer. At the top of your travel bucket list: Thailand is my dream destination for elephants, muay thai, yoga and surfing.

Indian woman walking in the Red Fort, Delhi, India Photo courtesy of istock | narvikk KE R & DOWNE Y

contributors

THE fall/winter ISSUE

Rhonda Ric hford Writer: Hot Spot

At the top of your travel bucket list: The Maldives. I feel like it’s one of the last unspoiled environments and I want to see it while that’s still true.

Rhonda Richford is a fashion, film and travel writer. Currently based in Paris, she attends all six of the city’s fashion weeks and her work takes her to at least one film festival a month from Cannes to Marrakech and everywhere in between. Her work has appeared in magazines such as InStyle and The Hollywood Reporter, where she’s interviewed countless luminaries from Oscar winners to legendary designers. When not on the clock, she’s seeking out new experiences, from swimming in the break of Angel Falls and sleeping next to a camel in Rajasthan to wine tasting in Lebanon.

Ma r t in e B u r y Editor In Chief/Writer QUEST’s Editor in Chief Martine Bury is a journalist, travel and lifestyle expert and native New Yorker living in Los Angeles. She started her career on staff at Travel & Leisure, and her work has appeared in several publications and websites including Forbestravelguide.com, Vogue, Marie Claire and New York. In this issue, Martine curated and wrote the Style section, as well as a feature on New Delhi. Two weeks + an unlimited budget—where are you going? Paris then Florence, to purchase my getaway homes

Eliz abet h Frels Writer: A-List; Arrivals

If I could instantly learn a new language, I would learn... French (I’m trying!)

Elizabeth Frels is Ker & Downey’s in-house writer and adventure enthusiast. A bona fide “RV kid” from Wichita, Kansas, Elizabeth caught the exploration bug early and credits school, missions and a few nudges from friends for sending her around the world ever since. Now based in colorful Colorado, Elizabeth spent the first decade of her career fundraising for nonprofit arts institutions and considers her current work an extension of her passion for culture and creativity.

Kelly Phillips Badal Writer: The Unexplored Serengeti Kelly Phillips Badal is a New York City-based lifestyle writer and editor with a passion for travel, culture, food and home design. For the past 10 years, she’s held editorial positions at Better Homes & Gardens and Country Living magazines; she now regularly contributes to BBC Travel, CondeNastTraveler.com and CoolHunting.com. She lives in Brooklyn, New York with her husband Tanveer Badal, a photographer. Beach or mountains? I really love two places I’ve been where you can have both: Cape Town, South Africa and Los Angeles, California.

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Ta n v e e r Bad al Photographer: The Unexplored Serengeti Tanveer Badal is an editorial and commercial travel photographer based in Brooklyn, New York. In 2014, he spent 10 months on the road, photographing 24 countries. Among his favorite assignments, he’s photographed the wildebeest migration in Kenya and Tanzania, trekked to Mount Everest Base Camp, and climbed Mount Kilimanjaro. Tanveer’s photography has appeared in Condé Nast Traveler, The New York Times, BBC Travel and Cool Hunting magazine. He’s married to Kelly Phillips Badal, a journalist and frequent collaborator.

EDITOR IN CHIEF M artine B ury Co n tr i b u ti n g e d ito rs K AT Y H E E R S S E N david jones I geek out about… Photography gear and fantasy baseball!

A n d r e w H a n cock Photographer: The Shot Andrew Hancock is an advertising and editorial photographer currently based out of Indianapolis. A Nikon Ambassador with a passion for creating dynamic visuals, his work has graced the covers of Sports Illustrated, TIME, Nikon World and the front page of the New York Times. A photographer with a unique blend of talents spanning a variety of photographic disciplines, including sports and action, portrait, travel and photojournalism, Hancock has also worked on advertising campaigns for clients around the world.

Favorite plane ride activity: If I am caught up on work, sleeping. It is also a rare chance for me to unplug and escape into a book, usually a Clive Cussler novel.

Mic h a e l M c Qu arn

david marek L e A nne M atula PUBLISHERS david marek david jones ART DIRECTION & DESIGN AMY WILLIS PHOTO EDITOR L AU R E N M A R E K STAFF WRITERS HALEY BEHAM E li z abeth F rels CONTRIBUTING WRITERS : RYAN C RO SBY L E S L EY MC K ENZ I E E RI C RO SEN S H I KH A MI SH R A CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS A ndrew hancock Tanveer Badal M ichael M c Quarn LOGO DESIGN E R IC ROI N E S TA D

Writer: Galapagos Michael McQuarn is a writer, director, photographer and producer with a desire for creative excellence and a passion for travel. He adapts his production style gracefully to each aspect of the entertainment world in order to create unique projects and visually stunning imagery. Michael has traveled to over 70 countries and worked in more than 40. With well over 1,000 dives under his belt, when Michael is not working above ground, you can usually find him on some underwater adventure. Michael’s motto is “Have camera, will travel.”

For me, winter means… Snowboarding in Whistler Mountain, British Columbia and sipping Baileys and coffee by the fireplace with good friends.

ADDITIONAL PHOTO CREDITS: Thinkstock | RudyBalasko; Ol Donyo Lodge; Marlborough Sounds; BMW | UWE FISCHER; www.hrhhotels.com | Thinkstock | Dejan Gileski; Arequipa; Four Seasons Resort Langkawi; Lauren Marek;Casa Turquesa | Andre Azevedo; Vertu | SignatureTouchRange; Song Saa; Jaguar; Gardena Grödnerhof Gourmet & Spa Hotel; Peninsula Paris; Thinkstock | vjanez; | Grace Cafayate; Thinkstock | mdmworks; Thinkstock | lkunl; Thinkstock; kitchakron; Eric Rosen; David Marek; Uma Paro Bhutan

a-list T he S eas on’s M ust-h a v e Ex p eri ences

SPLURGE

on the finest Austrian crafts and holiday decorations at Salzburg’s enchanting Christkindlmarkt (Christmas Market) in Residenzplatz while keeping warm with authentic Glühwein (mulled wine).

K E R & DOWNEY

By E li z a b e t h Fr e ls

HUNT

for the perfect photo capturing African wildlife in Kenya while on a walking safari with one of ol Donyo Lodge’s resident Masai trackers, who will give hands-on lessons on how to read footprints of the local game.

sip

your way through New Zealand’s Marlborough wine region to uncover the perfect Sauvignon Blanc, an ideal pairing with a game of pétanque at the whitewashed Wharekauhau Lodge.

chat

with illustrious engineers at the state-ofthe-art BMW factory in Munich and zoom on Germany’s nolimit highway in one of the manufacturer’s sleek, sexy sports cars.

explore

the romantic Indian gardens of Jag Mandir royal palace, an island jewel on Udaipur’s Lake Pichola that is said to have been the inspiration behind the Taj Mahal.

INDULGE

CLIMB

the rocky “snake path” of the Masada fortress in Israel to overlook the Dead Sea. Along the way, hear tales recounting the courage of Masada’s Jewish defenders and their first century battle against the Romans.

at Arequipa, Peru’s Las Casitas del Colca’s Spa Samay with the unique Sara Qata corn wrap treatment, an indigenous skin purifying technique utilizing ground purple corn, fresh honey and salvia oils sealed in an Alpaca blanket.

arrivals Open in g s , Revamp s a nd th e L a test Tra v el News

INIALA BEACH HOUSE, PHUKET A little whimsy goes a long way at Iniala Beach House, a newly imagined VIP experience on Phuket’s Natai Beach. Each of the rooms within the property’s three villas and single penthouse is completely different, a unique expression from world-renowned designers such as The Campana Brothers of Brazil, A-Cero from Spain and Joseph Walsh of Ireland. From maximalist fantasies and giant seashells to Gothic-style boudoirs and sinking desertscapes—this temple of global art and design boasts both the unexpected and luxe amenities like personal spas, pools, drivers and Michelin-starred chefs for an exclusive clientele.

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By E li z a b e t h Fr e ls

MANDAPA, A RITZ-CARLTON RESERVE, UBUD New for 2015, Ritz-Carlton makes a celebrated return to Bali’s island of the gods with Mandapa, the third outpost of the exclusive Ritz-Carlton Reserve brand. The property’s 60 private suites and villas balance along Ubud’s Ayung River Gorge and terraced rice paddies to create a modern yet inviting Balinese village setting. Mandapa—Sanskrit for temple—is a true sanctuary for style and service with indigenous design, worldclass cuisine and dedicated butlers who are known for their discreet, personalized details, from custom-made dinners under the stars to tailored spa experiences at the edge of the jungle.

Photos courtesy of Iniala Beach House | Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve | One Above Penthouse

ONE ABOVE PENTHOUSE, CAPE TOWN A jewel in Liz Biden’s collection of Royal Portfolio private residences in South Africa, the One Above Penthouse debuts with a splash at the ultimate Cape Town address. A two-story property perched atop One&Only Cape Town’s posh Marina Rise in the heart of the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront, the penthouse is South Africa’s most impressive accommodation on the most expensive piece of real estate ever sold in Africa. A six-floor ascent by private lift reveals treasures fit for a king at this fully staffed home. Wraparound terraces, rooftop pools, unparalleled views, access to a 280-bottle wine cellar, glamorous silver-lined rooms and a personal team of chefs and butlers contribute to the rare and flawless experience curated by Biden, one of the world’s leading hospitality design minds.

arrivals

DOMAINE DE MANVILLE, PROVENCE Between the Rhône and Durance rivers near the medieval ruins of Les Baux-de-Provence lies a drystone country palace with views of the southern French plains. A former farming estate built into the unspoiled Alpilles hills, Domaine de Manville is the epitome of the Provencal farmhouse lifestyle—where ripening tomatoes, gnarly olive trees, freshly baked bread, grape harvests and sheep farms satisfy gourmands. And the property’s courtyards, winter gardens, scenic eco-responsible 18hole golf course, sensorial pools and tea salons keep the outside world at bay. With 30 cashmere-draped rooms and suites and nine villas designed by Annie Zeau, this country palace evokes more home than hotel.

Golf lovers from around the world will marvel at Le Méridien’s first Asian golf resort in Bangkok’s Bangna area. Designed by golfing legend Nick Faldo, the resort’s professional 18-hole course is open day and night, allowing challenging and pleasurable rounds in both uninterrupted sunlit clarity and nocturnal serenity. With contemporary amethyst accents and inspiring art, it’s a true urban retreat with an aim to spoil guests. Master baristas greet you upon arrival and sleek technology, global flavors and spa and sport sanctuaries keep you coming back again and again.

MANDARIN ORIENTAL, BODRUM Situated on a rugged peninsula in the Turkish Riviera against the turquoise Aegean Sea, the deliberately isolated Mandarin Oriental in Bodrum redefines the Mediterranean lifestyle with 109 sleek, cubist-inspired rooms, suites and villas tiered along a verdant hillside surrounded by ancient olive groves and panoramic water views. Private twin beaches, four swimming pools, tranquil spa remedies and an aquatic center overlooking Paradise Bay beckon to intrepid water lovers and offer everything from scuba diving, wakeboarding and jet skiing to sailing, fishing and tours around the coast on a traditional Turkish Gulet.

Photos courtesy of Mandarin Oriental | Le Méridien | Domaine de Manville

LE M É RIDIEN SUVARNAB HUMI G OLF RESORT & SPA, B AN GKOK

AZURA SELOUS, TANZANIA Known for luxury boutique hotels, Azura Retreats has expanded to Tanzania with its first safari property, Azura Selous, on the banks of the Ruaha River. The camp’s 12 tented suites reflect a uniquely boutique-chic style in the middle of the African bush, with indoor stone bathrooms, chandeliered dressing areas, outside showers, air-conditioned quarters, large terraces outfitted with private plunge pools and river views populated with boisterous, resident hippos. These comforts, paired with single-vehicle game viewing and walking safaris, give the intimate lodge an undeniable wow factor.

RAFFLES, ISTAN B UL

Photos courtesy of Azura Retreats | Raffles Istanbul

Just opened, Raffles Istanbul serves as a beacon of modern, self-confident Turkey. It’s vibrant, cutting edge and intrepid, yet reflective of the country’s eclectic, rich heritage. Dramatic, angular architecture rises out of the Zorlu Center above the bustling ancient metropolis to create a cool oasis of light, airy, distinctly Turkish interiors with panoramic vantages of the Bosphorus. Outfitted with nearly 200 pieces of original art and one of the largest spas in the city, this stunning fusion of past and present tastefully melds the timeless luxury and undisputed chic associated with the legendary Raffles properties—blending the sights, tastes, textiles and sounds of today’s Istanbul. KE R & DOWNE Y

arrivals

ANANTARA MEDJUMB E ISLAND RESORT & SPA, MOZAM B IQ UE Anantara has long been associated with harmonious luxury, an identity only further perpetuated by one of two new secluded Mozambican island escapes, Anantara Medjumbe. Postcard-perfect, the 12-villa resort is enviably situated on an adults-only hideaway in the untouched marine wonderland of the Quirimbas Archipelago. Here, everything is by the guest’s design: collaborate with your chef to craft your own menu, served in a location of your choosing with an endless panorama of the Indian Ocean, and indulge in a “me time” personalized spa journey with bespoke treatment sequences tailored to your desire.

The Oetker Collection’s prestigious Le Bristol masterpiece turns a new page in its 90-year, celebrity-laden history to offer visitors an even more authentic Parisian art-de-vivre along the fashionable Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré. Its six-year renovation, considerately executed without closing its doors, encompasses 188 fully refurbished 18th century rooms and suites, a glistening Calacatta Michelangelo marble lobby, the new French-style Spa Le Bristol by La Prairie and inventive Michelin-starred cuisine at Executive Chef Eric Frenchon’s redesigned Epicure restaurant and the welcoming luxury brasserie 114 Faubourg, now led by Jean-Charles Cauquil.

SING ITA B OULDERS LOD G E, SOUTH AFRICA Blending the rhythm of South African safari life with contemporary high design, the newly reimagined Singita Boulders Lodge has been pared down to its essential, intrinsic beauty to reflect its Sabi Sand surroundings. Designer Cécile & Boyd and architect Sally Tsiliyiannis have utilized bone and ochre color palettes, abstract sculptural art, fossilized tree stumps and slabs of solid stone to seamlessly emulate the weathering and curvature of the boulder-strewn banks of the Sand River outside, now in closer proximity to the lodge’s iconic, raw timber decks suspending the 12 perfectly curated on-site residences.

Photos courtesy of Anantara Medjumbe | Le Bristol, Roméo Balancourt | Singita Boulders Lodge

LE BRISTOL, PARIS

Photo courtesy of Riad Mena & Beyond

RIAD MENA & B EYOND, MOROCCO Unlike most of the extravagant Riads found in Marrakech, Medina’s Riad Mena exalts a certain understated elegance, the kind of serene simplicity and evocative character—expressed through Philippe Starck bathrooms, mid-century modernist furniture and heated outdoor pool—that proposes a creative twist to the traditional urban Riad feel. Enjoy yoga classes and raw food picnics among the olive trees, or retreat to the property’s alternative country outpost, a two-acre permaculture farm at the foot of the Atlas Mountains, newly open to those looking for a serene escape from the bustle of the city. KE R & DOWNE Y

arrivals

WHAT ’S NOW PICTURE PERFECT

G LOB AL EATS THE CONTINENTAL, HONG KONG A lot of French, a little Italian and a British sensibility—foodies can now savor the best of Europe in the heart of Hong Kong at the Swire Hotels’ second stand-alone restaurant, The Continental. The resto’s refined elegance, sophisticated charm and highly personalized service extend beautifully to The Continental’s white marble and antique bronze-clad interiors by David Collins Studio and lavish seafood selections curated by consulting chef Rowley Leigh, a founding father of modern British cuisine. Menu highlights include griddled scallops, chicken and goat cheese mousse and Cedar River Farms Beef Carpaccio. SPRING RESTAURANT, LONDON Heartfelt, wholesome, produce-driven cuisine arrives in London’s West End with Spring, Skye Gyngell’s first solo testament to memorable, convivial dining. Australia-born and Britain-polished, Gyngell serves up quotidian lunch and dinner items that reflect the changing seasons, paired with an ever-evolving wine list developed by Head Sommelier Frank Embleton. Spring takes up residence at the renowned Somerset House within one of its never-before-seen neo-classical drawing rooms restored to its former splendor. Adjacent to the airy, peach-accented dining room is the quaint Salon serving up delightful pre-theater items like ice cream, little sandwiches and Bicerin.

Photos: Above: The Continental Hong Kong dining room; Bottom left: Griddled Scallops with Chestnut Puree, Shiso and Lemon; Bottom right: Skye Gyngell of Spring Restaurant

Photos courtesy of ASSOULINE | The Continental, Hong Kong | Spring Restaurant

Condé Nast Traveler Photographs: 25th Anniversary Collection sparks wanderlust. The retrospective covers the travel magazine’s most captivating photographs from the past quarter century, from striking architecture and exotic wildlife to big skies and compelling portraiture. This spot-on showcase of “Truth in Travel” features 25 fold-out images from renowned photographers such as Helmut Newton, David LaChapelle and Brigitte Lacombe, as well as essays, maps and annotations by notable authors, editors and photographers from the Condé Nast Traveler catalogue. assouline.com

Photos courtesy of Louis Vuitton | Limited Release X’Ploration | The Wellesley | Santos Tour Down Under South Australian Tourism Commission

STYLE FILE

FESTIVE FLIG HTS

The resource for all things chic, Louis Vuitton just added Berlin, Singapore, Rio de Janeiro, Istanbul, Milan and Shanghai to their collection of city guides for 2015—now 21 cities strong. A second edition classic Paris Guide has been updated through the eyes of notable contributor, architect Frank Gehry. Although sold individually, the slim, easy traveling books are as pretty (especially in a boxed set) as they are practical. A custom, boxed set can be assembled by request. Louis Vuitton City Guide | $37 | Available at Select Louis Vuitton Stores, 866.VUITTON, louisvuitton.com (MB)

A fresh and sparkling Brut Réserve tastes even better wrapped in travel-themed packaging. Adorned in compasses, globes and airplanes in flight, these limited edition bottles from one of France’s most respected makers of champagne are a thoughtful, celebratory touch for a party or the explorer on your list. Limited Release X’Ploration by Nicolas Feuillatte | $36 | available nationally at fine wine retailers (MB)

WHAT ’S NEXT AMAZIN G RACE: SANTOS TOUR DOWN UNDER CYCLING TOUR Cycling fans: begin gearing up for the 2015 Santos Tour Down Under, the southern hemisphere’s largest cycling festival, taking place in Adelaide and South Australia from January 17–25, 2015. Cheer on the world’s top professional cycling teams in the 500-mile race through beaches, hills, bush-lands and cities, or opt to organize your own “tour down under” on a mix of scenic cycling routes and city detours. More than a bike race, the Santos Tour Down Under is a celebratory party across South Australia for professionals, amateurs and enthusiasts alike.

TOAST 20 1 5: JAZZ AT THE WELLESLEY, LONDON Ring in the New Year in 1920s glamour and style at the newly opened Wellesley Hotel, London’s first boutique-grand hotel marked by its contemporary luxury, Art Deco charm and swanky Knightsbridge address. Celebrate 2015 in the spirit of Cleo Laine, George Melly and Mica Paris, with swinging music and Italian fine dining at The Wellesley’s intimate Jazz Lounge, a setting that transports revelers to another era with its Jazz Age-style grand piano and glamorous backdrop of beaded crystal screens against opulent dusty pink curtains, reminiscent of a Chanel flapper gown. KE R & DOWNE Y

arrivals

GOOD WORKS: ONE TO WATCH Shannon Wilson talks to QUEST about Imagine1Day, a new style of nonprofit that just might launch Ethiopia’s next great leaders. By Martine Bury

“ E th iop ia is an i nspi ri ng c o u n try, the bi rthplace o f civ il ization, and y ou f eel it i n the spiri t o f th e p eople and thei r w il l ingness to endure,” says philanthropist Shannon Wilson. “It also happened to be a natural choice for Imagine1Day, [because] there were more than 200,000 classrooms that needed to replace provisional schools that operate in makeshift conditions.” A trip to Ethiopia in 2007 inspired immediate action for Chip Wilson, founder of fitness empire Lululemon Athletica, and his wife Shannon, the company’s former lead designer. The couple spent the last seven years quietly building Imagine1Day, a decidedly innovative nonprofit that has just launched in the U.S. Laser focused on the African country’s dire education crisis, Imagine1Day aims to give all Ethiopian children access to quality primary education, free of funding by foreign aid, by 2030.

Bolstered by an Ethiopian government ready and willing to make it happen, the Wilson’s have been able to forge ahead. “The Ethiopian government has a long-term vision of turning their country from one of poverty to a global economic leader,” Shannon Wilson explains. “They understand that part of that transition is dependent on education, with the world’s highest number of out-ofschool children at 2.4 million. Ethiopia’s leaders have demonstrated their commitment by investing 25 percent of the country’s annual budget to education, which allows us to confidently partner with the country in offering strong educational opportunities.” The multitasking fashion designer and her husband applied the knowledge garnered from years of running an apparel business to create “an organization that was completely transparent and directly educated impoverished communities without corruption or loss of funds.” Rather than launching with media fanfare, they built strong bones by establishing an indigenous implementation team that actualizes every step of the process—from forming partnerships with rural communities and building schools to training teachers and bolstering projects for school-driven generation of income.

Photos courtesy of Imagine1Day

Photos: Above: The students of Imagine1Day; Opposite page: Top: Co-founder, Shannon Wilson; Bottom: Shannon Wilson with students.

In addition to establishing sound infrastructure, she was also committed to infusing Imagine1Day with a good dose of creative thinking. “One of my most important lessons throughout my career has been to bring together a group of people that inspire and create around you,” she says. “We’ve collected a group of individuals that are constantly inspiring our team to push harder with our vision and goals, [fostering] that kind of passion and support that moves Imagine1Day to success and motivates us on a daily basis.” Two things set the organization apart from other nonprofits. First, Imagine1Day directly implements all funding and donations, tracking every dollar spent from start to finish

thus measuring the impact of every donation they receive. Second, the organization spends a minimum of three years on a project, guaranteeing sustainability. As a mother of three, entrepreneur and avid traveler, Wilson sees fashioning big ideas into reality as family values. To her, that’s the recipe for success. “My family and husband have been a big motivation for me. They’ve shown me that no idea is too big and that thinking and believing in something isn’t enough,” she says. “You have to take action to see real progress whether in life or in business. My goal for my children is that they witness and participate in working passionately and making a difference in other peoples’ lives.”

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the guide Ins ider S ec rets of L ux ury Tra v el

Four Seas o ns Re s o r t L a ng kaw i , Ma l ays i a

T he Destination G uru From where to go to what’s in store, KER & DOWNEY VP AND intrepid traveler David Jones scouts the globe and answers burning questions for those who live to go there.

W e wa n t a c u lt u r a l a n d e xc l u s i v e w i n t e r g e taway t h at ’ s n ot j u s t a b e a c h . W h e r e s h o u l d w e h e a d ? J e n n i f e r J o h n s o n , H o u s to n T e x a s The town of Paraty is a UNESCO-protected World Heritage site located about midway between São Paolo and Rio de Janiero. This colonial masterpiece goes back at least 400 years. It served as the terminus of the Minas Gerais, or Gold Route, and the main seaport for shipping gold and precious goods back to Europe.

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the guide

Paraty ’ s white - washed dwellings set along blocks of cobblestone roads are a recent discovery by well - heeled B razilians seeking an escape from the crazy city life . Exploring the cobblestone streets is like being transported back to the days of the gold trade. Villages have a recreated, theme-park feeling but Paraty over delivers in authenticity. Locals live as they have for years and seem unaffected by the outsiders basking in the peacefulness of their daily existence. Big city artisans have created a bohemian community with great dining experiences, a bustling art scene and eclectic shopping. Storefronts bursting with color and creativity are everywhere, full of creations by true artisans. It is a foodie nirvana too, home to a few cachaça distilleries crafting liquor from local sugar cane and unassuming farm-to-table dining experiences that do not disappoint.

Tetê Etrusco, a former ballerina from São Paolo, found an 18th century sea-facing house that needed her loving care. After a painstaking restoration she christened her masterpiece Casa Turquesa. From the minute you arrive, Tetê makes you feel like a longtime friend. She immediately orders you to shed your stress and big city worries by placing your shoes in a personalized basket and donning a pair of Brazil’s de rigueur flip flops, Havaianas. While in Paraty, you must take a day cruise with local boat builder Captain Daniel Mestre aboard his handcrafted vessel called Barco Brulo. He painstakingly built this traditional wooden boat and it is as colorful as Daniel’s personality. He took me on a full morning cruise through the chain of rainforest-covered tropical islands facing Paraty. He moored in a small bay and it made me think of old episodes of Gilligan’s Island—no one else in sight. I was able to swim and snorkel in the clear water and take in underwater views unlike anything I’ve ever seen. We made landfall, and as I put on my runners, Daniel stopped me and said, “You cannot experience the rainforest the right way with shoes on your feet. You must go barefoot!” All I could think of was being stung, eaten or poisoned in the deep jungle, but he insisted so I complied. It was the most deep sensory experience I have had in my travels. The paths were strewn with flora so smooth and inviting that I could never imagine experiencing it again unless barefoot. Daniel knows his stuff, and he made the rainforest come alive. I really vowed to keep Paraty my little private place, but I just couldn’t. It is just too perfect not to share this gift with others. Photos courtesy of Casa Turquesa; Andre Azevedo | David Jones

Photos clockwise from top left: Colorful colonial buildings line the streets; Bespoke handcrafts can be found throughout the city; Barco Brulo day cruise; Comfortable master suite at Casa Turquesa; Barefoot rainforest hike with Captain Daniel Mestre

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the guide

W E L L N E S S : B E S T S PA P RODUC T S AT I N T E R N AT ION A L HOT E L S For more than 20 years, a special part of my job has been to discover new beauty and skincare lines at unique resorts and spas around the world. Here are a few of my personal favorite products, and the places I think you would most enjoy experiencing them. By Mary Bemis

ila STANDOUT PRODUCT Face Mask for Revitalising Skin is a green clay-based mask that’s beneficial for lackluster or dehydrated skin (think long flights). Ingredients include Himalayan rocks salt, argan oil and one of ila’s star ingredients—cold-pressed rosehip seed oil, harvested from a sustainable farming project in the southern Andes. Of special note: The convenient Travel Essentials Collection, made up of shampoo, conditioner, relaxing bath soak, body wash and body lotion.

PHILOSOPHY/STAR INGREDIENT Translating to “earth” in Sanskrit, this luxury organic line, known for pioneering natural ingredients, is quickly becoming a cult favorite among jet-setting spa-goers. The line hails from the UK and was created by Denise Leicester, an aromatherapist and a former nurse who developed the line after a stint caring for a former ruler of Dubai. The brand’s philosophy is “beyond organic,” and its vocation is “to bring purity, energy and balance into everyday life through the creation of luxury organic products ...”

WHERE TO EXPERIENCE Four Seasons Resort Langkawi, Malaysia, is home to The Geo Spa, aptly because of its proximity to Langkawi’s UNESCO Geopark. It’s an eco paradise that offers a true holistic experience. The spa treatments (all bespoke natural treatments by ila) are based on four pillars: nourishment, water, light and air. Try the Feminine Spirit & Radiance ritual, inspired by ancient Malaysian traditions.

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Biologique Recherche STANDOUT PRODUCT Without a doubt, the star product is the Lotion P50, a unique exfoliator that is the basis of all of the line’s skincare treatments. All treatments, including your at-home regimen, begin with this product that ultimately helps maintain the skin’s acid pH. (Men love it because it does a great job of keeping in-grown hairs at bay.)

PHILOSOPHY/STAR INGREDIENT Nearly forty years ago, Yvan (a biologist) and Josette (a physiotherapist) Allouche created this line and its methodology that is beloved by many a high-powered beauty editor. The results-driven line contains active ingredients and a high concentration of botanicals, marine and biological extracts. Facials are highly customized, and products are used in combination with the company’s original high-tech Remodeling Face Machine for pretty dramatic results. Every facial is designed around the “Skin Instant,” in other words, the current condition of your skin—and spa therapists undergo extensive training in technique in order to deliver a topnotch facial. There’s a reason why Biologique Recherche has such a loyal clientele.

Photos courtesy of Four Seasons Resort Langkawi | Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong

WHERE TO EXPERIENCE Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong, where spa director Shoshana Weinberg was wowed by the line after receiving a “magical facial” from the founders’ son, Dr. Philippe Allouche, a clinical doctor. The facial, along with the Biologique Recherche products, are bestsellers at this sophisticated city spa.

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Alpienne the guide

STANDOUT PRODUCT Arnika Lotion is light in texture—a refreshing lotion doesn’t leave a greasy residue behind. Simple packaging and pure ingredients, like arnica and rosemary, make this a winner.

PHILOSOPHY/STAR INGREDIENT This delightful line from Austria takes its inspiration from alpine traditional medicine focused on the healing power of plants, and it prides itself on only using natural ingredients from the Alps. Arnica, St. John’s Wort, chamomile and honey are just some of those healing ingredients that are meant to moisturize and soothe.

WHERE TO EXPERIENCE The beautiful resort hotel The Chedi Andermatt in Andermatt, Switzerland has a sumptuous and spectacular new spa that uses Alpienne in many of its treatments. And why not? The line reflects the spa’s surroundings and highlights the indigenous herbs of the region. Try the Alpienne Mountain Ritual, a five-treatment experience made up of Aromatherapy Foot Polish, Mountain Massage, Mountain Herbs Body Polish, Classic Mountain Herbs Facial and a choice of Alpine Botanicals Whirl or Steam Bath.

STAND-OUT PRODUCT Baume Délicieux Thé en Orient is a lovely body massage balm that nourishes and rejuvenates dry skin. It features the brand’s proprietary Four Teas Elixir, has an intriguing subtle scent and is wonderful to use whether your skin is dry or not. themae.fr

PHILOSOPHY/STAR INGREDIENT Originating in Paris, the line draws its name from the traditional Japanese tea preparation ceremony and pays homage to the art of tea as it is used and cherished by different cultures around the world. Long before its launch, the founders traveled extensively, researching the types and treatments of tea. Today, one may experience a number of

Thémaé spa treatments that are a blend of different cultures and traditions. Tea—specifically a beautifying combination of white tea (regenerating), red tea (soothing), green tea (chockfull of antioxidants) and black tea (stimulating)— is at the heart of this luxury line, and the belief behind it is that antioxidant-rich tea, so naturally high in polyphenols, can help slow the skin’s aging by neutralizing free radicals.

WHERE TO EXPERIENCE Domaine de la Bretesche, Missillac, France. This stately Relais & Châteaux property is actually an elegant renovated 15th-century castle situated in a picture-perfect pastoral landscape. The luxury hotel is home to the La Cour Carrée Spa where one may book a variety of Themae treatments, including the “De La Tête aux Pieds,” the head-to-toe ritual, which may just be the ultimate in relaxation. bretesche.com

Mary Bemis is a leading spa and wellness expert. She is the founder of InsidersGuidetoSpas.com and believes in the benefits of seasonal facials and a serious at-home spa ritual. 26

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Photos courtesy of The Chedi Andermatt | Thémaé

ThÉmaÉ

T E C H NOLO G Y: WELL-CONNECTED Liam McCabe recommends the ultimate smartphone for serious travelers. By Liam McCabe

For the discerning international voyager, one luxury smartphone stands head and shoulders above the pack. The Vertu Signature Touch (starting at $10,300) is a high-powered handset, bolstered by the classic dependability of a 24-hour concierge service, plus insider access to clubs and events around the world. Crafted around a titanium frame, the Signature Touch has a confident heft that’s missing from today’s typical aluminum and plastic phones. Its 4.7-inch, 1080p, sapphire crystal display is scratchproof. Bang & Olufsen-certified speakers have punch and clarity, while the Hasselblad-approved camera takes crisp, vibrant photos. The leather wrap is soft to the touch and is available in about a half-dozen finishes, including a new Bentley edition. Voice and text encryption are standard, and it will work on any GSM networks worldwide, with up to 4G speeds.

Vertu’s trademark feature is a concierge service. With direct access from the phone, a concierge can assist customers in organizing travel details, arranging reservations and gaining access to high-profile sports and cultural events, entry to members-only clubs and more. One year of service is included with the Signature Touch and costs up to $3,000 per year thereafter. Most services and privileges are centered in metropolitan cities, though Vertu tells us that their “concierge and events are on a global level,” and that they “have an intricate network of contacts that stretch well beyond the city limits.” While the Signature Touch is considered to be one of the top handsets available right now and is probably an upgrade from your current handset, it’s still built around many of the same components used in $700 mobile phones. It’s also an Android phone, so switching over from an iPhone won’t be frictionless. That said, the Signature Touch packs in great specs and no-stress services around the world—there’s no other package quite like it.

Liam McCabe is a technology journalist living in Boston. His stories about cameras, gadgets and the future of your home have appeared in USA Today, Reviewed.com and more. He’s an avid traveler and aspiring outdoorsman.

the guide

Photos courtesy of Pauline Chardin

Travel blogger, Pauline Chardin, exploring a new city.

I N F L U E NC E R S : Tips from Top Travel Bloggers These jet-setting stars of the blogosphere have perfected the art of traveling to all corners of the globe, documenting their experiences in captivating ways. We asked them to share a favorite tip theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve picked up along the way. By Haley Beham

A n n ie F it z s imm on s

Em ily Nath an ,

Urba n Inside r f or Nation a l G eographic Trav el e r

Reading Tiny Atlas Quarterly is like having a conversation with your best friend about her recent trip, with incredible imagery and tips on where to stay and what to eat from a local perspective.

Annie travels the globe for National Geographic Traveler, scouting out the most authentic destinations and speaking to locals in the know to discover one-of-a-kind experiences and the best places to stay that make each city its own.

The number one thing you need while traveling is a sense of genuine curiosity. Remembering this has helped me overcome many moments on the road of loneliness or being tired or jet-lagged or just ready to be home. This can help smooth over any awkward cultural encounters, any surprises you may come across and any chasm that might seem too big to cross. 28

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T in y At l a s Qu art e rly

If it makes travel sense, fly into the smallest airport you can. And if part of your trip requires driving on the wrong side of the road, hire a driver instead.

The Cu ltu re- ist

Pauline Chardin

An online magazine for people who passionately care about the greater world around them, The Culture-ist reports on the aspects of culture that truly matter, and the irony, humor and hope that go with it.

T h e V oyag e u r

If only for a day, try to volunteer in one of the surrounding local communities. Studies have shown that giving back and making personal connections while traveling create the most meaningful and memorable experiences.

We went to Japan without speaking a word of Japanese but were still determined to go off the beaten track. We rented a portable WiFi router from eConnect Japan and used the itinerary function of Google Maps to find our way. It works incredibly well in Japan and seems to know about every bus, subway and train. It felt like every corner of the country was within our reach!

Based out of Paris, France, Pauline at The Voyageur aims to help people discover the small, inspirational and surprising gems of the world through beautiful photographs and her own individual perceptions.

I N S I DE R : Fatma Y uceler General Manager, Western USA, for Turkish Airlines (EF)

An award-winning expert with decades of travel prowess, Fatma Yuceler is the general manager for Western USA at Turkish Airlines, recognized as “Europe’s Best Airline” four years in a row by Skytrax and for a growing portfolio of 261 destinations in 108 countries—more countries than any other airline. Who better to offer insight and advice for those who long to jet set the globe in luxury?

In your opinion, what defines "first class" travel? First-class travel is experiencing in the air the warmth and hospitality that one would find at a five-star hotel on the ground. I grew up on Turkish hospitality, a signature cultural emblem respected throughout the world. What is your best tip for getting the most out of international travel? Make the time to visit Istanbul. Whatever your interests and preferences, Istanbul hosts numerous sites and potential activities for international travelers year-round. Turkey in general, with one foot in Europe and the other in Asia, brings together a wide range of cultures and stories that every tourist can experience and enjoy. What should travelers look for in a luxury flight?

Photos courtesy of Turkish Airlines

As social media and consumer technology continue to become more and more a part of our lives, travelers should look for airlines that have taken steps to adopt these technological advancements to provide the best possible in-flight luxury. In fact, [Turkish Airlines] recently announced a new partnership with Universal Music Group that will give passengers access to audio and video playlists, teasers, concert videos, music news, behind-the-scenes footage and short videos.

Photo: Turkish Airlines lounge

T r av e l + L e i s u r e World’s Best Awa r d s Since 2009, Ker & Downey has ranked among the best in the Travel + Leisure Magazine World’s Best Awards, a showcase of the elite in the travel industry. High rankings from votes like yours have made that accomplishment possible. Please take a few moments to cast your vote in the World’s Best Awards. Visit tlworldsbest.com to rate your favorite travel experiences and enter for a chance to win a $10,000 dream trip, courtesy of T+L. Your vote will contribute to the results which will be revealed in the August 2015 issue of Travel + Leisure.

TLWORLDS B EST. C OM

style T he Art of Jet-Setting

Limited edition Jaguar Mark 2 by Callum

Curated and written by Martine Bury

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Everything

Nice

Our Favorite Gifts for Jet Setters

Photo by Vincente Sahuc for HermĂ¨s

HermĂ¨s Lift Christmas Ornaments, made of lacquered fiberglass in saturated orange, jonquille, purple red, emerald green and rosso $330 each | usa.hermes.com 32

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The Dreamer

The Sportsman

Burning 250 hours of pure wanderlust, this generous, three-wick, Moroccan Mint Tea candle from the venerated French candlemaker sends the memory of the Mascara coast wafting through the air with fresh, exhilarating hits of ginger, spearmint, jasmine and herbs reminiscent of the tobacco and tea from the Saharan Atlas’ Ouled Naïl tribe.

Restless soul meets hipster at heart in a spacious, Italian-made carryall that’s full of joie de vivre and ready for any adventure from skiing the Swiss Alps to sailing the Aegean and Ionian Seas. This is the “it” bag for the man who travels light.

Cire Trudon Abd El Kader La Grande Bougie $450 | barneys.com

Givenchy 17” White Leather Backpack/Duffle Bag $3,850 | Givenchy Wynn, Las Vegas

The Candy Addict So it’s not that kind of confection but still a sweet bauble of the delicious, cocktail ring persuasion. Flirtatious, whimsical and tropical—18-karat yellow gold, watermelon tourmaline and diamond pave, make a bold statement that is all grown up.

Irene Neuwirth 18k Yellow Gold One-of-a-Kind Ring with Watermelon Tourmaline and Diamond Pave Price upon request | Irene Neuwirth Store, 8458 Melrose Place, West Hollywood, CA | 323.285.2000

The Planner A compact clutch that amazes the deft traveler, the efficient packer and the woman who just might have it all. Croc embossed calfskin leather in a bright berry color pleases the eye while the currency compartment, nine card pockets, four removable document dividers and a generous front pocket to keep everything in its place.

Smythson of Bond Street Mara Collection Travel Clutch $750 | smythson.com

The Connoisseur Beautiful things often come in small packages, and this well-made corkscrew provides a handy tool for any lover of wine and food. Made in Franceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Laguiole region (legendary for crafting knives and fine cutlery), every detail and material has been thoughtfully sourced, from virtually indestructible Sandvik stainless steel to solid Nigerian zebu horn. Laguiole En Aubrac Waiters Corkscrew, Solid Horn | $160 | williams-sonoma.com

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The Creature of Comfort Wherever we go, we can think of a million ways to wear this cozy, masculine, jacquard-woven multitasker, which is made in Scotland of lambswool and the softest cashmere.

Burberry Prorsum Ink Print Graphic Blanket Scarf $1,495.00 | us.burberry.com

The Gambler Keeping the competitive edge, this handy set of games is perfect for long-haul flights or lazy beach days. Packing the classics—two decks of cards, five dice, two sets of draughts and a draughts board—a sleek, elegant case in Delon leather holds hours of entertainment. My Travel Games by Loro Piana | $1,995 | loropiana.com

The City Slicker Refined with urbane sensibility, this leather jacket reverses to soft suede in a blue hue, better than basic black. Two looks in one, it’s the ultimate layering piece with a clean-lined design that looks sharp day or night.

Brunello Cucinelli Suede Reversible Bomber in Navy $5,680 | Brunello Cucinelli 379 Bleecker St, New York, NY 10014 | 212.627.9202

The Minimalist With flip-up LCD, a lightning-quick, 1/4000 shutter speed, 5fps continuous shooting, 20.5 MP 1-inch sensor and interchangeable lenses, this lightweight camera packs an impressive punch, makes sharing easy and takes a sharp and clear photo in any place, time of day or weather. Mirrorless, pocket-sized and available in pastel colors, it’s a nice option for those who crave minimal equipment, a little more oomph than a smartphone camera and the ultimate on-location selfie.

The Historian Kicking off the adventure of a lifetime in 1836, French scholar, author, archeologist and artist Achille-Constant-ThéodoreÉmile Prisse d’Avennes’ lifetime of exploration in Egypt made him a leading authority, essentially inventing the discipline of Egyptology. This collection of complete notes and artwork covering drawings, architecture, paintings and industrial and artisanal art is a documentary of a compilation still reputed to be the world’s biggest and illustrated record of Egyptian art.

Samsung NX Mini & 9MM Lens Kit | $450 | samsung.com

The Sentimentalist Established in Bali in the mid-1970s, John Hardy has been tapping into the finest Asian jewelry traditions to make unique pieces like this subtle, easy-wearing and stunning artisan-hewn bracelet created by a complex chain-weaving technique. Their first jewelry maker, the grandson of a Balinese king’s jewelry maker, brought knowledge of the time-honored process.

Émile Prisse d’Avennes: Egyptian Art $150 | taschen.com

John Hardy Sterling Silver Station Bracelet on Black Leather Cord $525 | johnhardy.com 36

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The Excursionist Made to order in the U.K., these classic, hard-sided beauties have been a tried and true must-have for discerning travelers since the late 1920s. Inspired by explorer Sir Edmund Hilary, who brought Globe-Trotter cases to base camp on his Everest ascent, this rich and roomy suitcase just gets better with time. Globe-Trotter Expedition Everest Edition 33â&#x20AC;? | Made to order | globetrotter1897.com

world traveler

IAN CALLUM Callum with his beloved, new Mark 2

Photo by Dick Barnatt

Ja guar ’s De s ign Dir e c tor Ian C al lu m h a s a tal e nt f or ma nifesting his d r e a ms, sp inning t h e m into im p re ss iv e personal a c c omp l ishm e nt s and cre at ing v e h icl e s t hat are the s ta n d a r d of lu x u ry w orl dw ide. A precocious teenager, he famously wrote a letter to Jaguar that included drawings of the cars. It got the company’s attention, and gave him the encouragement to study art and design, work his way up and finally land his ultimate gig in 1999. In addition to the celebrated release of the XE in 2014 and the upcoming, much anticipated 2015 F-Type Coupe, the Dumfries, Scotland native finally built his dream machine—his new Mk2 (Mark 2 by Callum), valued at about $573,000. QUEST talks to the top creative about cool cars and, of course, the ultimate road trip.

At 14 you submitted a car design to Jaguar, and here you are now. Do you ever look back and think, “How did I do it?” Every day, I do. What always surprises me are two things: One, I was so passionate towards the brand even then. And two, the fact that I had the gumption to write to the company and say I want to work for you at such a young age, with absolute sincerity and determination. Later, the job just fell in my lap. I thought, “This is fate, if ever it was. This must be it.” What is quintessentially British about Jaguar vehicles? British things have to be elegant and tasteful. I’m not saying everything in Britain is elegant and tasteful. Still to qualify as being rightfully British, something has to have what I call a “natural restraint.” It can never be vulgar. The cars have to have that quality, with just enough flamboyance to be interesting. Also, the interiors of the cars are very warm. They tend to have a lot of leather, a little wood. It’s all about the authenticity of materials. They are very honest in a tailored sort of way, which is also very British. What are your favorite vintage Jaguar cars? Depends what time of the week it is. My favorites tend to stem around the sedans—probably, the Mark 2 Jaguar and the original 1968 XJ6. Which is the car that actually spurred me on to write that letter all those years ago. With the special edition Jaguar Mk2, you finally have your dream car. What inspired it? When I was a kid, these cars were what professional people drove, and the cool people of course. The Mark 2 was considered the sports sedan, as the fastest car that would carry five people. I always wanted my father to have one, but he could never really afford one. Still, I was hugely influenced by their presence. I was also really into motor racing at the time and used to go to the motor races in Edinburgh. There were a lot of Mark 2s, Ford Falcons and Minis—really eclectic cars. These racing cars were all stripped back to make them lighter in weight. Even at that age, I always dreamt about what a racing Mark 2 could look like, with less chrome and wider wheels. I thought that’s the kind of Mark 2 I’d like to have. So finally, 45 years later, I got around to it.

When you travel, do you take time out to drive around and get to know a destination? If I am in a place like the South of France, I try and get out in a car for at least a couple of days. The last really nice trip I had the opportunity to drive was in South Africa, through Stellenbosch and the Cape Winelands. I liked it so much I stayed for four weeks. It’s a lovely mix of countryside. One minute you feel like you’re in Wyoming, next minute you feel like you are in the Highlands of Scotland and then you feel like you are in the Mediterranean—all in close proximity.

What are your favorite journeys by car in your native Scotland? Every time I go back, I go for a drive in my car, an FType Jaguar. I take roads around the Southern Uplands of Scotland—quite hilly with beautiful, sweeping and quite empty roads. I just deliberately go out for half a day’s drive and enjoy the countryside. My favorite part is further up the northwest coast of Scotland, which is like a different country. Rain or shine, the roads are beautiful and empty. You can drive a car quite briskly without upsetting anybody. I like to stop in Ullapool, a fishing village on the west coast in Rossshire Scottish Highlands. Roundabout that area are some of the best driving roads and beautiful little cafes and bed and breakfasts. As a kid, it’s where I went on holiday, so I know it quite well. Where else do you get inspiration while traveling? I have to say the different colors fascinate me. I used to live in Melbourne. The light in Australia is magnificent. It comes down on you with a very hard shadow all the time, everywhere. And the colors of the bush in Australia are quite blue, not green. In different parts of the world, the colors emerge from different parts of the culture as well as the scenery. India is a hugely colorful country, but that comes from the culture. People are always wearing bright clothes. There’s a lot of vibrancy, visually. Middle Europe is a bit gray and rainy. The colors of the desert have always fascinated me as well.

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world traveler

What is the first thing you do when you get settled on an airplane? If it’s a night flight, I have a glass of wine, something to eat and go to sleep. That’s it. Daytime, I tend to read magazines more than books. My attention span is very low. I listen to music on my iPod with Bluetooth headphones so I can wander around. Also, I’ve got a sketchpad with me. It’s a nice moment to actually draw randomly without any great sense of purpose and see what pops up. Do you have a favorite playlist? I have 4,000 tracks on my iPod, so I just let it go random—from Bowie to Vivaldi. I’m a great Bruce Springsteen fan. I listen to him quite a lot. Also, I never fast forward or skip. I make sure I listen to each track all the way through. Describe your perfect day in London. I can’t believe I am saying this, but I catch the train so I don’t have to park the car anywhere. I go to Covent Garden, have something to eat and a few glasses of wine because I am not driving. I love walking around the Serpentine [River] in Hyde Park on a summer’s day. In the evening, see a play or a movie, which I don’t do enough. There are a lot of little bookshops and record shops just off Leicester Square. I like to nose around a couple of motorcar bookshops. Invariably, I buy something. I love meeting people at The Wolseley in Piccadilly for lunch. It’s got a nice buzz to it. There are a couple of pubs I go to that are quite nostalgic for me. One is called the Queen’s Arms on Queen’s Gate Mews. I used to go there as a student. Do you have a recent, memorable hotel experience? Mandarin Oriental in Knightsbridge was impressive. We stayed in a suite that overlooks Knightsbridge. What makes a hotel luxurious to you? The first sign of a truly great hotel room has got to be the bathroom and the bed. A luxurious bathroom shower and tub is … poetry. That is your moment of sanctuary.

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The all-new compact sports sedan Jaguar XE

How do you define luxury? Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the ultimate, most sincere statement of what you like best.

essentials

On Time Haute Horology for People Going Places

Collector’s timepiece covering all 24 time zones, 41mm white gold case, 38-hour power reserve, hand-stitched black alligator strap, hand-painted dial and city names in 38 bright colors inspired by the customization of vintage trunks with strips of color, initials, coats of arms and other geometric pictograms.

Louis Vuitton Escale Worldtime Price upon request | Select Louis Vuitton Stores

Standard-setting classic, selfwinding calibre 2385, stainless steel case, glare-proofed sapphire crystal, screw-locked crown showcasing black dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, white gold applied hourmarkers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph | $24,300 | Audemars Piguet Boutiques

For night owls and frequent flyers, 12 diamonds and mother of pearl dial provide a bright canvas for the 24-hour, two time zones and day/ night display in this self-winding, 37mm timepiece from IWC’s first unisex collection IWC Portofino Midsize Automatic Day and Night | $14,600 | iwc.com

Clean, minimalist and sophisticated at 39.9mm in stainless steel with domed sapphire crystal, shell cordovan black strap, automatic winding and world time indicator NOMOS Glashütte Zürich Weltzeit $6,100 | Available at Tourneau and tourneau.com

Elegant, vintage details—such as hand winding, honeycomb dial and thin, 18k gold case—in harmony with modern luxuries like Omega’s Master Co-Axial calibre 8511 advanced, antimagnetic movement (George Clooney wore the white gold version of this timepiece for his wedding.) OMEGA De Ville Trésor Master Co-Axial 40 MM | $13,800 | Omega Boutique Fifth Avenue

Fit for business travelers and yachtsmen alike, with subtle nautical design, water resistance up to 30 meters, alligator strap, self-winding movement, silicon escapement, 48hour power reserve, handy quickset function for the hour hand and essential dual time indication Ulysse Nardin Dual Time Manufacture | $10,500 | Ulysse Nardin Boutique New York

Workhorse pilot’s watch, featuring unique star-shaped bezel design, dual time zone display with an independent alarm, calendar day and date programmed for four years and Night Vision Goggle compatibility—all in a 46mm black DLC steel case flanked by a black steel mesh bracelet or hightech fabric strap Breitling Chronospace Military $6,835 | Breitling Boutique New York

Sporty diver in fine-brushed polished steel, water-resistant at 300 meters, plus a unidirectional bezel, antireflective scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and faceted hour and minute hands with luminescent markers Tag Heuer Aquaracer Lady 300 M 32MM | $2,100 | tagheuer.com

Iconic, comfortable and handsome diver with solid-link, steel Oyster bracelet, signature Rolex chronometer and high-precision movement that’s temperature, shock- and water-resistant at depths up to 1,000 feet Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner | $7,500 | Rolex Boutiques

Military-inspired showstopper with a micro-rotor powered P. 4000 calibre movement and luminescent numerals and markers for clarity at night Panerai Radiomir 1940 3 Days Automatic Acciaio - 45mm $11,600 | panerai.com

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profiles

E ric Ra isin a

With striking looks and charisma to match, this Cambodia-based fashion designer lives the life eclectic.

At 14 years old, Madagascar-born Eric Raisina decided he wanted to make his own shirt. “I touched my mom’s sewing machine for the first time,” he says. The connection made, he showed his first collection in his homeland in the early 90s. The collection earned him Young Designer of the Year and a scholarship to study at Paris’ L'Institut Français de la Mode, where he earned a master’s in textile design and fashion. Raisina’s talents soon landed him a series of dream gigs, including a commission to design a bustier for Christian Lacroix Haute Couture in 1997. Around the same time, he began his love affair with Cambodia, where he currently works and resides. “I fell immediately in love with the country, the people, the silk industry and the food,” he says. “Traveling back and forth until 2001, I finally decided to live there and build my own workshop, leaving Paris, where I certainly was expected to build my career.” He bridged the countries through important relationships, like that with the famous Yves Saint Laurent muse, creative director and fashion icon Loulou de la Falaise, who mentored Raisina. “I have learned so much from her, and I got the first order to produce silk for YSL ‘croisière couture,’ a fabrication I was already producing in Cambodia,” he says. Photos courtesy of Eric Raisina | Oyen Rodriguez | Roger Spooner

Based in Siem Reap, Raisina has come to be known for his signature work with fine silk, creating not only sumptuous, delicate, color-saturated fabrics but also bold men’s and women’s wear—tailored blazers, ethereal gowns and super-chic ‘silk fur’ scarves to name a few. He calls it ‘haute texture’. From Cambodia’s hip expat community to French couturiers to international travelers lucky to visit his studio, Raisina has garnered an impressive international roster of clients. His customers are fashion insiders, risk takers—all drawn to the eclectic, well-traveled story each garment tells. “My childhood was surrounded by beautiful colors from tropical gardens and the beauty of Indian Ocean,” Raisina explains. “Madagascar is known as the only island rich with both African and Asian influences. My vision encompasses these influences, intertwined with the French influences I’ve picked up in Paris.” ericraisina.com

Line We Love:

K etza li Meet Guatemalan designer Maya Colop-Morales, whose luxuriant, ecofriendly, fair-trade scarves strike the balance between sonow style and classic, artisanal tradition.

While studying at London’s Central Saint Martins, designer Maya Colop-Morales spent her summer breaks in her native Guatemala exploring her family and her country’s creative roots. A fleeting attempt to create a line of handbags planted the seeds, which she believes inspired Ketzali, her current collection, to grow. Colop-Morales’ aha moment came on a Sunday afternoon when she visited the home of Cristobal, a passionate local artisan who was a bit of a local legend in traditional textiles. “I followed my impulses and immediately asked him to create 45 scarves, in three different styles I designed in a notebook sheet,” she says. “When I first told him how much I wanted to pay him, he looked at me like I was a crazy as I was paying him three times what he would sell his items for at the local market. Twenty days after, he showed up at my home with 45 scarves.” Named for her late sister, Ketzali was born. But her family influenced her new business beyond the brand name. Colop-Morales’ mother, owner of a catering business and artist who works with embroidery, provided early inspiration. “One of her hobbies is to hand embroider pictures of traditional Mayan clothing,” she says. “Seeing her observing women and their beautiful clothes, buying the fabrics and playing with yarns installed a creative feeling and love for the traditional Mayan wear, which now the majority of Guatemalans are a bit jaded to.”

Photos courtesy of Ketzali

Her father’s work in the non-profit field had an impact on Ketzali’s fair trade business ethos and Colop-Morales’ weaving skills. “He had to travel to various communities, so I always volunteered myself to be his co-pilot,” she says. “While they were evaluating the agricultural fields, I was left with the leaders’ wives—many of [whom] weaved to earn extra money for their households. I learned how to weave from them and they even gifted me an old backstrap loom.” The designer on the rise also draws inspiration from Guatemala’s lush scenery, in places such as her beloved Lake Atitlán. “I love spending time in the little towns that surround the lake, as they are peaceful and beautiful,” she says. Appreciation for the country’s unique environment makes preserving culture, protecting nature and uplifting community the motivation behind each handloomed Ketzali scarf. Colop-Morales explains, “I believe fashion can create a big positive impact if it is done ethically and sensibly.” ketzali.com

KE R & DOWNE Y

Passion Points TOMS Visionary Founder and Chief Shoe Giver Steps Up

Before he was 30, Arlington, Texas native Blake Mycoskie had already launched five businesses. A fateful spot on CBS’s Emmy-winning “The Amazing Race” in 2002 led him to Argentina, where in 2006, he participated in a volunteer shoe drive that inspired him to launch TOMS, a company that started out by giving a pair of shoes to a child in need for every pair purchased. Mycoskie’s wildly successful One for One® business model has since provided over 35 million pairs of shoes, expanded to include various other products such as TOMS Eyewear, earned the founder countless accolades as one of the world’s most innovative business people and inspired scores of other companies to engage in social entrepreneurship. We talk to Mycoskie on the heels of the launch of TOMS’ historic collaboration with Target, projected, he says, “to reach at least 10 million people in need through our giving partners, delivering meals, blankets and, of course, new pairs of shoes to people across America.”

Most people don’t know what it’s like to experience travel on a show like “The Amazing Race.” Were you always an adventure traveler at heart? I’ve always been an avid reader, and since childhood my imagination took me to many faraway places. But it wasn’t until “The Amazing Race” that I actually left the country and experienced a foreign country and culture for the first time. It literally changed my life. My notoriety from “The Amazing Race” actually helped me get in the door with store buyers when TOMS was in its early stages. When did it click that you could travel around the world, grow a profitable business and do good, as a business model? It all happened so naturally. I never thought to separate the business goal of giving to children in need from the mission itself. Travel, as it turns out, was and continues to be a necessary benefit of what we do. Photos courtesy of TOMS

People credit you with beginning the social entrepreneurship movement. Can you explain the One for One concept? With each product sold, we help someone in need. The philosophy behind the One for One model is to use business to improve people’s lives.

I am most passionate about the fact that giving is good business, and that giving should not be separate from business. You have expanded TOMS One for One to include sunglasses, coffee and sales of your book, Start Something That Matters. What other needs have you identified in your travels that inspire new products? The latest global need we have identified is maternal health, and the fact that millions of women are at risk simply by giving birth. So our next One for One product—TOMS bags such as totes, purses and backpacks—will debut in spring 2015 and will help mothers deliver their babies safely into this world. What are your favorite international destinations? Right now, Haiti is holding a very special place in my heart. This year, we opened a factory there to make our giving shoes, and I believe TOMS can be an inspiration and catalyst for economic investment throughout Haiti, a beautiful country. What are some of your most memorable travel adventures? Playing polo in Argentina comes to mind and is something special.

Do you have a personal icon, living or historical? From a business perspective, I often look up to Richard Branson and see a lot of parallels in what he created with Virgin to what we are hoping to achieve with TOMS in the long run. He created a strong and unique brand and applied the Virgin philosophy, attitude and aesthetic to many different product and service categories, which people have recognized and valued. Richard also took his decades of success and personally has done so much to give back to the world that he is truly a living icon to me. Tell us something we don’t know about you. I actually credit my grandmother for my sense of style. She was known for wearing bright, outrageous things. It shows you don't take yourself too seriously and it puts everyone around you at ease. Why is passion important to your business and its success? I am most passionate about the fact that giving is good business, and that giving should not be separate from business. This is a simple powerful idea that can resonate for decades to come.

How do you suggest avid travelers get more deeply involved in communities they visit? Plan less but spend more time connecting to really get a sense of a place and what makes it special. What’s the difference between a tourist and a traveler? I definitely think being a traveler requires a greater level of passion, investment and curiosity that is rarely satisfied. Being a traveler is quite an active state of mind, whereas being a tourist seems to be much more passive. What inspires you? The most inspirational and important thing in the world to me is family.

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C AM B ODIAN C HI C This stunning 10-day getaway unlocks the style and grandeur of Cambodia and its exquisite melding of ancient and modern culture. From sites and wonders to dining and leisure, this is an unforgettable way to experience the temples, cuisine, treasures and coastal retreats in this diverse and majestic land.

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C on c lu d e y o u r s t y l is h a dv et ure in t h e Ko h R o n g A rc h ip el a g o f or f i v e da y s o f c o m p l et e is l a n d rel a xa t io n . SONG SAA RESORT

Contact your travel professional or visit us on the web to view this journey at kerdowney.com.

flights Fres h Takes on Grea t G eta wa y s

Peninsula Pa r is KE R & DOWNE Y

Ph il a n t hropy: T h e Big Play

Elite NFL star Larry Fitzgerald is a visionary, transforming his celebrity and passion for travel into a game-changing influence for a better world. BY HALEY BEHAM

Larry Fitzgerald, a 10-year wide receiver for the Arizona Cardinals, is a force to be reckoned with both on and off the football field. Pairing his commitment to give back to the community with his love of traveling the world and exploring new cultures, he has been able to help people in both the United States and in countries in dire need of assistance like Rwanda, Ethiopia, the Philippines and Senegal. If you follow him on Instagram, Twitter or Facebook, you’ll see a post or two chronicling the work he’s doing with the Starkey Hearing Foundation and Oxfam in the off season, but he isn’t a braggart and he isn’t receiving wide media attention. He’s just the kind of guy who gets casually mentioned for his good works by former President Bill Clinton during an interview on CNN. About his childhood, the Twin Cities native says, “Growing up in Minneapolis, it was a typical childhood—two-parent home, good schools, sports, lots of traveling with my parents.” His mother, in particular, was incredibly influential in his future philanthropic work. After her death in 2003, Fitzgerald was inspired to start the First Down Fund, an organization that funds activities for kids and supports children and families in crisis. In 2006, the NFL veteran made his first trip to Africa, one he says was life changing. He traveled to Zambia, one of the poorest countries in the world, where 70 percent of its 13 million citizens live in poverty. It was his first experience seeing real poverty, and he was motivated to help make a difference. Upon returning from Africa, he surrounded himself with like-minded people such as Anquan Boldin, a former teammate currently playing for the San Francisco 49ers who introduced him to Oxfam, and Bill and Tani Austin,

founders of the Starkey Hearing Foundation. Since 2008, Fitzgerald has traveled on several missions with Oxfam, an organization working to find practical and innovative ways to equip people around the globe to lift themselves out of poverty. In Ethiopia, a country plagued by drought and famine, drained of resources and bereft of stable agricultural production, Fitzgerald and Boldin worked to educate people on how to live sustainable lives by assisting to create small plots of farmable land.

Fitzgerald captures a gorilla portrait in Rwanda.

The NFL star also frequently travels with the Starkey Hearing Foundation, an organization dedicated to providing hearing care to thousands of people around the globe. When asked about a favorite travel memory, he’ll mention the first time he traveled to India with the organization, where he assisted with fitting a child for hearing aids. Once fitted, the child could hear instantaneously and Fitzgerald witnessed the light in their eyes at hearing the world around them for the first time. “It was really special,” he says, and an experience he’ll never forget. After that first trip to India in 2008, Fitzgerald has remained committed to the mission of the Starkey Hearing Foundation and continues to travel to countries around the world, assisting with fitting people for hearing aids.

Photos courtesy of Larry Fitzgerald

Although he travels around the world with relief organizations, the good-hearted philanthropist makes sure to fit in time for leisure adventures as well. “Traveling gives you the opportunity to interact with different cultures and meet interesting people along the way,” he says. On his last trip, he spent two days with Kingsley Holgate, a fascinating South African explorer, author and philanthropist working to bring awareness to rhino conservation and the alarming rate at which rhinos are being poached. Impressed by Holgate’s tremendous heart and dynamic character, Fitzgerald says Holgate will remain one of the most memorable people he’s met on his journeys.

“Traveling is the one thing you can buy that actually makes you richer because of what you learn.”

With the NFL season well underway, we’ll continue to see Larry Fitzgerald on the football field for the Arizona Cardinals after signing an eight-year contract extension with them in 2011. Beyond sports, he’s committed to helping people domestically through his First Down Fund and internationally with continued missions through the Starkey Hearing Foundation and Oxfam.

Of course, he’ll continue to explore the globe for fun, too. He’s been just about everywhere in the southern hemisphere. For the future, he’s looking to places like Russia, Scandinavia, Papua New Guinea, Sri Lanka and the Czech Republic, to name a few. The travel bug may have bitten him at a young age, but his love of discovering new places is spurred on by his passion to help people. “Traveling is the one thing you can buy that actually makes you richer because of what you learn,” he says.

Larry Fitzgerald is a loyal Ker & Downey traveler committed to giving back to communities both locally and abroad, inspiring people to do the same through his journeys. Ker & Downey’s Haley Beham caught up with Larry fresh off his trip to Rwanda, where he volunteered with the Starkey Hearing Foundation, to Fitzgerald often captures images on his travels

discuss his passion for travel, giving back and where his enthusiasm all started.

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Five Stars Shine on the Island of Vitality By Mary Bemis

HOTEL BELLEVUE As the twin-engine Beechcraft approached the Croatian island of Lošinj, my husband was wildly shooting photos out of the window. And for good reason—what lay beneath us was breathtaking. Here was the sparkling Adriatic Sea in all her glory, dotted with numerous small, forested islands that glimmered like natural gems. The striking, sunny combination of sea and greenery and sky made me forget all about my jetlag, and I felt energized. That feeling, as I was soon to discover, was not unusual. For the island of Lošinj is aptly called the Island of Vitality. One of more than 1,100 islands on the stunning Croatian Coast, Lošinj boasts close to 2,600 hours of sunshine a year, with just-right summers, averaging 75 degrees Fahrenheit, and easy winters, with temperatures 45 degrees Fahrenheit. In fact, it’s this ideal climate that landed the 20-mile-long island firmly on the health resort map. Back in 1892, because of this curative climate, the Austro-Hungarian government declared Lošinj a natural health resort. Soon afterward, Lošinj became the first tourist island in the aptly named Austrian Riviera. Popular with the imperial family (Empress Sisi and Emperor Franz Joseph were among the imperial visitors and Archduke Franz Ferdinand, suffering from tuberculosis, stayed for six weeks and recovered), it quickly became renowned for its healing powers and natural beauty. Tourism peaked around 1913, and then the island was beset by wars, communism and more wars—and so it fell off the world stage. Fast-forward to July 2014—to the 120 million Euro rebirth of Lošinj and the grand reopening of the Bellevue Hotel, the reason for my long journey. The one and only five-star hotel on the island, the new Bellevue is sleek and airy, loaded with natural light and textures—wood, stone and more. It’s a complete revision of its former self, an iconic 1960s hotel. It has the best spot in Čikat Bay, secluded and nestled in a forest park of ancient Aleppo pines—literally steps away from the sea. The purity of the place is what surprised me most upon arrival. It’s as if Bellevue was an elegant modern spaceship that had landed in a natural paradise. The light, the gentle-scented air, the towering pines, the 1,200 indigenous herbs (230 of them are medicinal), the 155 miles of walking trails—and most of all, the sea before me—were a welcome surprise to a weary traveler.

Of the 185 rooms and 21 suites, we stayed in one of the spacious seaside Executive Suites. Much of our time was spent on the terrace with its quiet stainless-steel hot tub, welcoming sun deck and ample seating area. I felt as if I were perched atop a luxurious bird’s nest, looking out over the Aleppo pines to the sea. Nature was smiling upon us, and it felt as if the hotel and the environment were in perfect harmony. A few special room notes: There is a pillow menu to choose from: antibacterial, buckwheat or feathers, and I appreciated the elegant marble bathrooms with heated floors and amenity line from Natura Bissé, a luxury skincare line from Spain. 52

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Photos courtesy of Hotel Bellevue

Water, in all its power, purity and vitality, play an important role here, and kudos must be given to Andrija Rusan, the award-winning Croatian architect who led the more than $21 million project. He succeeded in creating a stunning four-story contemporary property that blends the best of old world and new. This is immediately evident when you enter the hotel to a breathtaking view of the glorious blue sea. Rusan has said that in envisioning the hotel, he wanted to create an “elegant, airy and spacious hotel, a little town in an idyllic environment … a rich environment with different spaces just like in a city …” and he has most certainly succeeded.

While there is much to do on the island, it was hard for us to pull ourselves away from the hotel. The restaurants are fabulous, including: Pin & Oli, an a la carte spot; Bava, the hotel restaurant; Alto Rosso, the lounge bar; and a spa bar. The food was a wonderful surprise. As a pescatarian, I felt as if I had died and gone to seafood heaven. Fresh succulent seafood (octopus lovers, rejoice!) included amazing shrimp from the Kvarner Bay (some say it’s the best in the world), crabs, mussels and whitefish, not to mention amazing local olive oils, homemade jams from the island-grown citrus, honey liqueurs and some surprisingly excellent wines and bubbly. Nice note: All herbs used in the cuisine—basil, mint, rosemary, sage and more—are grown in a garden located on top of the restaurant. Fruits and vegetables are sourced from organic local suppliers. To work off all the indulgence, there are two seawater pools, one on the inside, one outside, fitness facilities, and of course, the beach is directly outside, nicely outfitted with parasols and lounge chairs. And then there’s the spa! Designed by Mojca Gradišek, renowned spa expert and former professional skier, its heart is the relaxation zone—magically lit through translucent onyx walls, this is an elegantly sexy space. Here you’ll find a vitality pool, dry and steam saunas, Turkish bath with a hammam table and state-of-the-art experience showers. I loved the separate relaxation spaces, with their comfortable waterbeds that were lit with primary colors, and the armchairs ideal for a day of downtime. The intimate spa library is a special spot where one may lounge in front of the fireplace, enjoy a drink (cocktail or mocktail) and chill out in style. The spa is divided into four sections: the pool area, the aforementioned relaxation zone, a face and body treatment area and a fitness area. The spa is actually named La Vie en Rose,

inspired by the beautiful pink hues of wild cyclamen and bougainvillea flowers that bloom each spring in Čikat Bay. The beauty and wellness section of the spa has its own entrance and is smartly done. The all-white, modern space is designed for face and body treatments, and here you’ll find some of the latest cosmetic innovations from some of the best skincare laboratories—Cellcosmet, Diego della Palma, Natura Bissé and Thalion. I loved the main area with its long white table with seating on both sides so estheticians and spa guests could try products and converse. Of course, there’s a professional team of estheticians, doctors, therapist and kinesiologists on hand to help you get the most out of your stay. Special spa programs are tailored to weight loss, detoxification and rejuvenation. For those staying a week or longer, I would recommend the Luxury Spa Escape, a seven-day program including three spa facials, a mineral sea scrub, a de-stress massage, two aroma rituals, two thermal mud wraps, a hot stone massage, an energy balancing ritual, a classic manicure and pedicure and seven personal training sessions. Of special note is the Diamond System, a sophisticated piece of equipment from Italy (there are only six in production, and Bellevue has one of those) that, according to its literature, “successfully combines quantum medicine, color therapy and sound frequency to solve psychosomatic issues and improve your overall quality of living.” I experienced it for 30 minutes before my spa treatment, and I felt like I had only been lying atop it for 10 minutes. Time flew, and it seemed to both refresh and relax me. This spa will put this already regal property on the map with spa aficionados. I have a feeling even Empress Sisi would have approved.

UPGRADE: Via Ker & Downey, Bellevue Hotel will send its private plane to any airport in Europe to pick you up for stay. KE R & your DOWNE Y 45

Top 10 Things to See & Do on the Island of Lošinj

Set Sail on one of Jadranka’s yachts and explore one or more of the many surrounding islands, including Ilovic, home to the casual, delicious Restaurant Dalmatinka with its seaside terrace. Swim in one of the many secluded coves along the way. If you’re lucky, you’ll see dolphins. jadranka-yachting.com

Smell the Herbs at The Garden of Fine Scents, a beautiful and well-tended garden boasting more than 250 native plants, plus 100 exotic species. Stop in at the little gift shop for a unique selection of aromatherapy, salts and more.

Watch the Sunset from the Lanterna Grill, one of the best spots on the island. A perfectly magical spot overlooking the Adriatic Sea, it’s a short drive from the Bellevue. Enjoy this casual seaside grill’s fresh, inspirational Croatian cuisine.

Take a Walk along the coastal path surrounding Čikat Bay and breathe in the fresh sea air. This is a peaceful stroll past rocky beaches, bathing areas and Habsburg holiday villas. Bonus: Surfboards and snorkel gear for rent at many of the shacks along the way.

Be a Tourist and make sure to spend some time in Mali Lošinj. Dating back to 1398, this beautiful and historic seaside town was at one time the biggest and most developed merchant marine in the Adriatic Sea.

Eat on the Beach at the hip Borik Mediterranean Bar. Choose from a mouthwatering menu featuring fresh seafood, local meat and more. End your meal with a glass of honey liqueur, a Croatian specialty.

Go Shopping at the Bellevue Hotel boutique. You’ll find Croatia’s leading fashion designers here, including unique jewelry by Nenad Sovilj and hand-painted t-shirts, dresses and more from renowned Croatian designer, Ivana Omazic, former creative director of Céline.

Dine at the Villa Diana, a historic villa overlooking Čikat Bay, a three-minute walk from the Bellevue. Make sure to be seated outside and try one of the many island specialties.

Go to Church, specifically St. Antun Opat Pustinjak, located on Veli Lošinj, a small idyllic village 5 kilometers from Mali Lošinj. The Baroque beauty was built in 1774, in the place of a smaller church built in the 15th century. It’s home to a surprisingly rich collection of Italian masters.

10.

Raise Your Glass, and try one of Croatia’s amazingly fine wines. We sampled a variety of malvazija, the signature white wine of Istria, from the Coronica, Vina Laguna and Kozlovic vineyards. There’s just as much to appreciate for lovers of bubbly and red wine, as well.

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HOT SPOT: The P enins u la

Pa r is American journalist-turnedexpat Rhonda Richford makes a lavish escape to Parisâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; most fashionable new address

aris may be called the City of Light, but the City of Luxury would be an equally deserving a moniker. From the fine jewelers that line Place Vendôme to the decadent desserts and rich cuisine that define French food—it is certainly not a city that deprives itself with juice cleanses and kale. It’s the place to pursue the best of the best, from baguettes to Bordeaux, as it has been for centuries. So it’s fitting that the Hong Kong-based Peninsula Hotel Group decided to open its first European doors here. Perhaps more than even New York—if you can make it here, you can make it anywhere. A regal spread, the property just emerged from a four-year renovation of the former Majestic Hotel, a BeauxArts structure that lost its luster serving as a succession of government offices for the last eighty years. After opening in August, The Peninsula Paris has become the brightest spot in the city’s luxury landscape. Mere meters away from the madness of the Arc de Triomphe roundabout, yet secreted away on a side street that is billed as the tiniest avenue in the city, the hotel is an oasis from the tourists trekking up and down the ChampsÉlysées. The main entrance opens to the bright and airy lobby with a cascade of gold and glass crystal leaves, perhaps reminding guests that in true French style, sparkle should be subtle.

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Paris prides itself on being a city of fashion and not flash. Aside from the I.M. Pei pyramid that’s almost universally despised by Parisians for ruining the sightline from the Tuileries to the Louvre, the city approaches its architecture much like its fashion models—it’s the bone structure that counts. Looking at these bones from above, the building seemingly wraps its arms around the most sought-after patio in Paris at the moment, where a good looking set sip signature cocktails such as the white lotus infused Le Kléber. Stepping in from the busier Avenue Kléber, guests are greeted by two Chinese lions, traditionally thought to bring good fortune and happiness. Inside these doors is The Lobby restaurant, and if you have the good fortune to dine here, you will certainly leave happy. The restaurant serves a modern mélange of international dishes, as well as a decadent macaron and pastry-filled afternoon tea. It’s one of the three restaurants available to guests (and the locals that are lining up a month or more in advance for dinner reservations). The rooftop L’Oiseau Blanc flies high above the city, offering one of the best views in town, with the open-air bar area bookended by the Eiffel Tower to the south and the Sacré-Cœur to the north. The restaurant offers modern, market-based French fare. LiLi is the jewel in the culinary crown, led by the group’s Michelin-starred Chef Tang Chi Keung, bringing much-needed upscale Cantonese cuisine to a city where Chinese is mostly microwaved and universally dismal. Keung has elevated the simple dishes here to the level of haute cuisine that suits finicky French tastes. I start with steamed lobster dumplings and spring-bright shrimp and chive dumplings (“har gow” in Cantonese), whose traditionally translucent wrapper is a bright spring green. Both burst with delicate seafood flavors, created by the man I suspect is the world’s first “dim sum ambassador” in Chef Yip Wing Wah, who oversees the

small plates. All in, I follow with the clay pot of roasted cod and garlic, which has just enough chili for its spice to surprise the palate and then cool off with the sweet chilled mango cream. The diversity of room styles exudes disciplined balance and French discernment. Although the Versailles-inspired first floor suite is in traditional Sun King style, the interiors of the standard guest rooms don’t try to outdo the opulence of the common areas and instead have a calm, contemporary design. The palette is a wash of neutrals and greys, with slight Asian-inspired touches as a nod to The Peninsula’s heritage, and each room has a separate dressing suite for an added element of privacy. There is incredible attention to detail—not only in the rooms, but in the technology as well. Each guest room has state-of-the-art tablet control, as well as room service and valet ordering that knows your preferred language out of eleven programmed. It’s designed to make guests from any part of the globe feel instantly at home. But it is the soothing subterranean spa that is a real retreat. With just eight rooms, there is no crowded feeling of a luxury locker room. In fact, in my hours there I only passed one other guest despite the hotel being at nearly capacity. The two saunas and large rain shower space felt like my own private relaxation room. The pool, too, lay untouched just off the spa, making my evening swim solitary and serene. The spa offers a variety of massage and facial packages, including couples treatments in special double rooms, and features ESPA and Biologique Recherche products. The full-body massage incorporated some pressure point therapy that helped me nod off momentarily. George Gershwin famously wrote “An American in Paris” here in 1928, and it is The Peninsula in Paris that will keep guests humming. KE R & DOWNE Y

l ayov e r: istan bul ERIN WEINGER TAKES A WHIRLWIND SPIN THROUGH THE HISTORY, STYLE AND CULINARY CROSSROADS OF TURKEY’S MOST ALLURING METROPOLIS

You could spend weeks exploring Istanbul, this anciently modern behemoth on the Bosphorous—and both of the continents it straddles. But this city of 14 million’s most magical moments can be condensed for a quick jaunt, too.

Sights As one of the world’s most important centers of ancient civilization, there’s no shortage of momentous landmarks to take in—the first being the Hagia Sophia, a Greek Orthodox cathedral constructed in AD 537 that was later turned into a mosque—with major historic high points in between. Now a museum in the midst of a grand restoration, the building melds many religious eras, as well as gold-flecked mosaics, drool-worthy marble work and a 183-foot-tall dome that will leave you thinking about the meaning of life. While in the old city section of Sultanahmet, the Blue Mosque, just across from Sophia, is also worth a visit for the 20,000 tiles that line its 15th century domes. (Go during non-prayer times and don’t forget to wear socks.) Nearby, the Basilica Cistern, the largest of the city’s ancient underground water storage tanks, houses two mysterious Medusa head columns. If you can only see one palace in Istanbul, it should be Topkapı Palace, a UNESCO World Heritage site where Ottoman sultans lived from 1465 on. The fist-sized emeralds and rubies in the palace’s treasury rooms are jaw-dropping and the imperial table settings strewn throughout the property’s kitchen wing leave you longing for a new set of dishes from the bazaar, stat. The Asian side of the city has its own distinct flavor, and chartering a boat off the Goleta Bridge for a two-hour spin down the Bosphorus is the best way to see the magnificent, grand 18th century Ottoman residences and the handful of various Sultan summer palaces that dot the Asian waterfront.

Culture No trip to Istanbul is complete without a visit to the Grand Bazaar, a covered, 3,000-stall market built in 1456 where you’ll find everything from Turkish glass art to antique gold jewelry to vintage Rolexes and towels. You could spend hours here and drive yourself mad, but notable stalls include Cashmere House, where cashmere shawls in every color of the rainbow abound, and Sait Koç, a family-owned, locals-favored jewelry emporium known for colored stones. A quick five-minute walk from the Bazaar lies the Egyptian Market—better known as the Spice Market—which is a smaller, more manageable option and features plenty of edible delights and quality leather goods. Also in the Sultanahmet old city section, Nakkaş Rugs exports their new and vintage pieces to some of Los Angeles and New York’s most boldfaced design shops. While there, make sure to ask owner Cengiz Kara about his antiques store around the corner, which houses the gilded, bejeweled costume jewelry of Husain, a local designer whose metalwork has appeared in Brad Pitt’s Troy. If antiques and one-of-a-kind design objects are your thing, the Çukurcuma neighborhood is worth

a stroll for its barrage of interior shops and, as an added bonus, offers convenient access to Nobel laureate novelist Orhan Pamuk’s enthralling Museum of Innocence (not to mention a cup of caffeine at stylish, friendly Holy Coffee nearby). Over in a converted warehouse in the industrial Tophane area, the Istanbul Modern is an easily digestible, two-story glimpse into the Parisian-influenced Turkish contemporary art scene from the 20th century until now (and also offers cool, well-priced geometric jewelry by Örge Tulga in the museum’s unique gift shop). After, walk to the uber-cool Karaköy ‘hood just a stumble down the Bosphorus coastline, where a quaint Parisian-style passage yields Kağıthane, an energetic paperie featuring handmade invitations and kebab-clad notebooks by Turkish makers, as well as Fashion@Eye, journalist-turned-eyewear purveyor Hakan San’s epic selection of old-school specs by everyone from Christian Dior to Thierry Lasry. Before you leave Karaköy, the brand new marble, star-shaped skylights and ancient architecture of the circa 1580 Kılıç Ali Paşa Hamam (a Turkish bath) will leave you in awe—as will your new soft and refreshed skin.

Photos Thinkstock, nimon_t; | Hamdi

Restaurants Contrary to popular belief, Turkish food is more than just mezze and lamb kebab. In the Tepebaşı neighborhood, Bekir Kaya’s trendy, two-story Cok Cok offers innovative Thai fare (think chili ice cream and coconut milk chicken soup) in a space designed by notable Singaporean architect Kay Ngee Tan. A few doors down, enjoy one of the best views in town with a martini at Mikla atop the Marmara Pera hotel. For authentic Tuscan and Roman dishes dating back to the middle ages, grab a seat on the tiny, romantic terrace of cozy Antica Locanda in Arnavutkoy. Frankie at the minimalist Sofa Hotel in posh Nişantaşı also comes with a view, plus Chef Symeon Triantafyllou’s famous stuffed artichoke and an impressive local wine list. Turkish food purists will revel in more than 20 types of kebabs at Hamdi, a 30-year-old local chain. While those seeking a truly authentic, ancestral lunch can’t The terrace overmiss the ever-changing, seasonal looking the city mezze at Çiya Sofrası, internaat Hamdi tionally renowned Chef Musa Dagdeviren’s super low-key lokanta (tradesman restaurant) on the Asian side of town. Over in cool Karaköy, Colonie is the hottest spot in the city, featuring an innovative, industrial interior by Turkish-born, Paris-based designer and artist Koray Ozgen as well as mini wood-fired pizzas and grilled nigiri sushi. Can’t get a coveted Friday night table? Try for lunch, or stop by owner Gülin and Yücel Özalp’s other trendy, locals-favored property Topaz, which will debut its own Ozgenled facelift come spring. KE R & DOWNE Y

GETTING THERE A mere 12 and a half hours from Los Angeles, a direct Turkish Airlines flight to Istanbul’s Atatürk Airport is the perfect preamble to your adventure, offering a true taste of the country’s hospitality and, most importantly, cuisine. In business class, start with a dizzying array of mezze followed by a creamy vegetable soup, Turkish beef filet, a cheese course and Turkish coffee before waking up to your customized breakfast order. It’s all served on china by a white hat-clad chef, all from the comfort of your lay-flat seat that comes with gate-togate Wi-Fi.

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Çırağan Palace Kempinski’s stunning Bosphorus views

VIP service at the glamorous, new Raffles Istanbul

A sleek, modern guest room at Witt Istanbul

Hotels Depending on mood, there are a few different routes you can go when choosing your Istanbul accommodation. For an old-world experience, the Çırağan Palace Kempinski—a Bosphorus-adjacent Ottoman palace built in the 1860s—is elegant and refined, with dark wood tones and stately Turkish marble baths in each of its 313 rooms. Attached to the 25-year-old hotel portion of the property is the palace itself, which houses Europe’s second largest chandelier, as well as the posh, polished Tugra Restaurant, where an entire underground kitchen is devoted to making baklava (11 varieties of it, to be exact). The design obsessed may never want to leave their suite at the Witt Istanbul, a warm, 17-room boutique property that channels a bit of Brooklyn (there’s an organic foods market across the street) in the city’s hipster-laden, walkable Cihangir section. But it’s worth leaving if only for the cinnamon-infused Turkish coffee and cheese-filled Sigara Böreği pastries served at the intimate, inclusive lobby breakfast. Into cool street art? Ride the elevator and make sure to watch the wall as you move. For some luxury retail therapy at the Prada and Fendi stores that dot the city’s shiny new Zorlu Center and a “New Turkey” feel that mimics a Vegas and Dubai mashup, the glittery three month-old Raffles Istanbul is not to be missed, with technologically advanced rooms (think motion-detected climate control and motorized blackout curtains) that come complete with walkin closets, butlers, iPads and stand-alone soaking tubs that—with the right corner view—offer its bather a picturesque look at both the old city’s glowing minarets as well as a sprawling skyscraper-in-progress skyline. Press open those motorized curtains—the view is just as magical in the morning while eating the hotel’s rich, traditional Turkish breakfast in bed.

Photos courtesy of Çırağan Palace Kempinski | Witt Istanbul | Raffles Istanbul

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WINE & SPIRITS

t h e dri n k: Ryan Crosby de-mystifies the “new” spirit that HAS EVERYONE ABUZZ.

PISCO

The clear, un-aged (and quite mixable) brandy is considered the first spirit to be distilled on the American continent. It’s initial stateside popularity originated in San Francisco during the Gold Rush era, before it vanished into obscurity during Prohibition. That is, until now. Pisco has become a huge source of pride for the country of Peru over the last ten years, as the product has vastly improved in quality while the country recovered from years of political unrest. In short, this spirit’s history is complicated. First, there is the controversy around the etymology. The name is arguably derived from a variety of places, the region/town of Pisco, the Incan word of Pishko or Pishku for the small regional bird that the region was named after or the clay vessels that the liquor was transported in, which were known as Piskos. Second, there is an international debate between Peru and Chile concerning ownership of the Pisco name. Peru’s solid bragging rights come from the geographical city of Pisco is the only place it can be made (much like Cognac or Champagne), while Chile has two regions where it can legally be made, arguing Pisco is a descriptive name for the spirit. One thing is certain: “Pisco really is the intersection of wine and spirits, right?” says Duggan McDonnell, distiller of Encanto Pisco.

“ We pick g rapes, w e m a k e wi n e a n d w e distill it. It ’s si n gl e d i st i l l e d w i n e. ” - D u g g a n M cD o nnell Vine to Bottle Politics aside, for this piece I decided the focus is Peruvian Pisco, which has strict requirements to meet before it makes it to bottle. In Lima, I meet up for a tasting with local Pisco expert, Jorge Miguel Jiménez Garavito. He explains the distillation process with the finesse of a poet and speaks of how the Peruvians gather the eight regional grapes with the passion of a chef. Simple in concept yet complex in execution, the spirit legally must be from the region of Pisco, be brought to proof without adding water or sugars and, unlike brandy, is aged in glass or stainless steel to prevent additional flavoring, which is also not allowed. This is why the alcohol content wavers in the low 40 percentile, between type and brand. There are four varieties of Pisco that are produced. Puro, the most sought after and mixable, is made from one grape, often referred to as Quebranta in reference to the common varietal. There are the Aromaticas (garnacha) or Italia varietals and Mosto Verde, in which the distillation starts before the fermentation is over. Lastly, Acholado is a blend of grape varietals.

Photos courtesy of Barsol | Encanto | Portón | Thinkstock, JorgeMoralesAvendano

History and Legend To get to the essence, Jorge and I stop by the famous English Bar at lavish and historic Country Club Hotel, in Lima’s upscale San Isidro district, to experience the original recipe for the national drink of Peru, the Pisco Sour. The bartender is Roberto Melendez, who has been carrying on the original recipe for generations. He is focused and deliberate as he meticulously combines the Pisco with the distinctly tart Peruvian lime juice, egg white and a lengthy, well-timed shake. He pours the frothy, cream-colored cocktail over ice, after it cascades effortlessly down the bar spoon, he adds the touch of bitters to finish. Melendez, as well as the country of Peru, is proud of their national drink. As for myself, I find a new favorite drink. The second notable recipe is the Pisco Punch, immortalized in the Kipling classic From Sea To Sea. The spirit had been available in San Francisco during the increased trading spurred on by the California Gold Rush, and the recipe combines an Aromatica Pisco, typically Italia, with pineapple and lime juice. Created by Duncan Nicol at The Bank Exchange in San Francisco during the late 19th century, the original recipe vanished when the bar was shuttered and its creator died during the Prohibition era. Although these two are the most popular recipes, a purist Peruvian may insist that the best way to drink Pisco is neat, over the course of a long celebratory dinner with friends and family. Garavito offers his favorite mix, “I rather enjoy a refreshing ‘Chilcano de Pisco’ made of Pisco Pura Italia, ice cubes, ginger ale and a twist of lime. [It’s] easy to make and delicious!” Mind you, the ginger ale they serve down in Peru is more pure in form than its U.S. compañeros, much like their national treasure, Pisco.

TASTING NOTES Easy to find in the U.S., here are a few stellar bottles to try.

PortÓn Pisco This Mosto Verde-style Pisco is made from grapes at Hacienda La Caravedo, which has a Pisco distillery dating all the way back to 1684. They let it rest for a full year in glass silos before it is bottled.

Encanto Pisco Encanto, which translates to “field of enchantment,” is mixology guru Duggan McDonnell’s inspiration to reintroduce Pisco back into America after his days of bartending in San Francisco. Out of the gate, the brand (whose co-founder was named Leader of the American Cocktail Revolution by Food & Wine) won Medalla de Oro, the award for the Best Pisco of Peru.

Barsol Pisco This award-winning brand has been a leader in the renaissance of Pisco since 2002. They offer their take on each of the four types of Pisco, harvesting their grapes from the Ica Valley.

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FINE WINES & FRONTIERS

Discover the soul of Northwest Argentina on this unique circuit that takes you along unpaved mountain roads and unveils off the beaten path treasures in the Salta province. This itinerary is for the seasoned, intrepid traveler who is willing to take on the frontier for the sake of exploration, authenticity, legend and luxury bottled at the source.

S U G G E S T E D

J O U R N E Y

| Da y 1 |

Salta

G L A N C E

En j oy mou t h - w a t er in g dis h es a n d f in e A r g en t in ia n w in es a t a c en t ur ies - o l d ma n si on i n t h e s h a do w o f S a l t a ’s s t u n n in g A n des m o u n t a in s . H o u se of J as m i nes E stanc i a de C har m e

C achi

| Da y 2 |

D ri v e a lon g t h e R ec t a de T in -T in a n d p a s s t h r o u g h b rea t h t a k in g C ues t a d e l O bi sp o a n d L o s C a rdo n es Na t io n a l Pa r k t o a r r iv e in t h e b ea u t iful a r t is a n v i lla g e of C ac h i. LA MERCED DEL ALTO

C afayat e

| Da y 3 |

S h op a lon g T h e A r t is a n ’s R o a d, s h a re in a c u p o f m a t e w it h l o c a l s a n d ex pl o re t h e mod e rn l ig h t in s t a l l a t io n s a t t h e J a m es Tu r rel l Mus eu m . G race C afayate

Salta

| Da ys 4-5 |

Vi si t loc a l v i n ey a rds f o r a t a s t e o f t h e reg io n ’s f a m o us t o r r o n t és v a r iet a l s and re t u rn ba c k t o S a l t a fo r a n im m er s io n in t o t h e g a u c h o l ifes t y l e o n a n a ut h e nt ic worki n g Arg en t in ia n es t a t e. E l B ordo de L as L an z as

P urmamarca

| Da y 6 |

Un wi n d i n t h e a n c ien t s eren it y o f A n dea n c u l t u re a t t h e f o o t o f t h e m a j es t ic H il l of S e v e n C olo r s , w it h a f a rew el l din n er fea t ur in g l o c a l dis h es a n d im p res s ive Arg e n t i n i a n w in es . H otel E l Manant i al del S i lenc i o

Contact your travel professional or visit us on the web to view this journey at kerdowney.com.

explorations “ W herever you g o, g o with a ll y our h ea rt. ” - Confuci us

Lion Pride in the Serengeti | Paul Joynson Hicks

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Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc Barr Al Jissah Resort and Spa

Sands of T ime Tapping into memories of her eclectic, global upbringing, Lesley McKenzie revisits the romance of her childhood playground on the southeast coast of the Arabian Peninsula, beautiful Oman.

ou don’t have to spend much time in the Sultanate of Oman before realizing you’ve come upon the jewel in the crown of the Middle East—a serene and tolerant country where the abundance of natural beauty is matched by the overwhelming displays of hospitality. My family came to this conclusion more than 30 years ago, when my father’s work brought us to this corner of the world from 1983 to 1989, relocating from Europe. My brother and I spent our formative years of an idyllic, carefree childhood here, with a house on the beach, family weekend adventures in the desert and an all-around priceless education in food, culture and travel. 25 years later, I returned to rediscover the charm of this coastal kingdom that has permeated my mind and formed the backdrop of almost-dreamlike memories. From the charming seaward capital of Muscat to the towering desert dunes and the blossoming Jabal Akhdar Mountain, complete with its first luxury resort, here’s how I fell in love with Oman once again. KE R & DOWNE Y

Other must-sees around town include the elaborate Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, which was completed in 2001, and is home to the second-largest carpet in the world (housed in the men’s prayer hall), accompanied by one of the world’s largest chandeliers. Meanwhile, The Royal Opera House of Muscat, which was commissioned by the Sultan and completed in 2011, reflects the ruler’s commitment to culture and classical music. The largest venue of its kind in the Middle East and a grand ode to Omani architecture, the complex, complete with landscaped gardens and a luxury shopping mall, opened with a performance by Placido 72

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Domingo and continues to draw world-class acts today. There is no shortage of five-star accommodations in Muscat, but for the toniest reservation in town, head fifteen minutes outside central Muscat to The Shangri-La’s Barr Al Jissah Resort and Spa. Built into cliffs, this seaward sanctuary is home to three separate but equally stunning hotels inspired by traditional Dhofari architecture: the family-friendly Al Waha; the business traveler-minded Al Bandar; and, the most luxurious of all, the adult-only Al Husn. Here, guests can indulge in a wealth of amenities. I made the most of Al Husn’s exclusive beach— including more than twenty on-site restaurants, lounges and bars for a well-rounded dining experience and CHI, The Spa, an oasis of pampering offering a wealth of outdoor and indoor treatments in the privacy of a designated spa villa. The grand dame of local hotels, the Al Bustan Palace, A Ritz-Carlton Hotel is the go-to hotel for visiting dignitaries, thanks to the ultraprivate top floor designated for use by the Sultan only. Opened in 1985, the 250-room hotel was a beloved local destination for my family, with many weekends spent lounging on the hotel beach and dining al fresco poolside. The property has undergone a number of extensive renovations since then, while preserving its majestic air and sense of exclusivity that continues to set it apart from its peers.

Photos Courtesy of Oman Tourism Board | Barr Al Jissah Resort and Spa

Photos: Above: Muttrah’s colorful arcitecture; Right: Barr Al Jissah Resort and Spa’s elegant evening meal

F or mo s t t r av ele r s , the first port of call in Oman is the capital of Muscat, also the seat of the government and the Sultan Qaboos bin Said al Said, who came into power in 1970. For more than forty years, Omani nationals have revered their forward-thinking and generous ruler, who is credited with, amongst other things, bringing stability, healthcare and education to the region. Al Alam, the Sultan’s ceremonial palace, is one of the city’s star attractions, and locals are always on the lookout for his super-yacht moored in Sultan Qaboos harbor along the corniche of the old city, known as Muttrah. Visitors also flock to this part of town for the famed Muttrah Souk (a childhood favorite), laden with local curiosities—think traditional carpets, frankincense—as well as cheap trinkets and curios.

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M u s cat ’ s tempe r atu r e s can s oa r abov e 100 degrees in the summertime, so plan accordingly. Still, a new resort in Jabal Akhdar Mountains in the Al Hajar range, located approximately two hours outside Muscat, is luring visitors year round with its pristine wilderness, spectacular views and, most importantly, cool temperatures—which can vary up to 20 degrees from the searing desert conditions below. The site of an Omani military base and observation point, Jabal Akhdar was closed to outsiders until the turn of the century, when Sultan Qaboos opened it up to visitors. It didn’t take long for people to figure out the area’s true tourism potential, but building a lavish resort in this rugged terrain—accessible only by one very windy road—was no easy feat. Lucky for me, one company was up for the challenge, and now the mountain can be experienced in all its glory at the recently debuted Alila Jabal Akhdar, the area’s first luxury escape. Built from locally sourced stone and mimicking the area’s traditional architecture, this LEED-certified property reflects the beauty of its rugged surroundings. Each of the 78 suites and villas boasts spectacular views of the mountain gorges and cliffs, as do the property’s restaurants: Middle Eastern-inspired, Rose Lounge and Juniper. The on-site Spa Alila is also at one with the area’s nature, incorporating locally grown ingredients such as frankincense, juniper berry and rose into its signature Asian-influenced treatments and products. A day is perfect for exploring the area and its agriculturally sustained villages. I was set on visiting the famous rose gardens of Al Ayn and visiting nearby Diana Point, a spot known for its breathtaking views and named after the late Princess Diana, who paid a visit to the region when I was a child. At the time, I, along with several hundred other children, was tapped to wave a welcoming British flag outside the Sultan’s palace for her arrival with Prince Charles. For day-trippers willing to trek to the foot of the mountain (about an hour-long drive from the resort), there’s the promise of Wadi Beni Khalid, an oasis nestled amidst area plantations that lures both locals and foreign travelers 365 days a year with its palm-tree lined swimming hole. For history buffs, there’s Nizwa, the former capital of Oman and home to Nizwa Fort, a 17th-century castle surrounded by souks brimming with the area’s signature pottery, not to mention Bedouin silver and, on Fridays, a must-see traditional cattle market.

Photos from left to right: Alila Jabal Akhdar resort suite bathroom; Spa Alila; Alila Jabal Akhdar resort on the cliffs of the Al Hajar range. Photos courtesy of Alila Jabal Akhdar

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No t r ip to O man i s complete without a visit to the Wahiba Sands, a desert region approximately 140 miles outside of Muscat, distinguished by its vertiginous, undulating waves of red sand dunes. Growing up, a visit to this area translated into a traditional camping trip. Today there are a handful of options to explore the sands in style. Ideal for families, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Desert Nights Camp, a sprawling retreat with 30 permanent, charming Bedouinstyle structuresâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;and a restaurant, bar and recreation room to match. Located seven miles into the desert in a valley of dunes, the camp offers the comforts of electricity and running water (though unreliable at times). From this point, visitors can explore the surrounding desert through a variety of options, from dune buggies to camel rides, courtesy of the local bedouins and shepherds whose humped herds roam freely around the camp. For the more adventurous traveler, Hud Hud Mobile Camp is a luxury camping experience, with destinations throughout Oman, including the Wahiba Sands. Private camps are erected for each traveler or group, according to their preferences, group sizes and needs. Deep in the desert (for my stay, we traveled 25 miles off the main highway), these exclusive camps are set up using traditional bedouin fabric tents, imbuing the experience with a sense of authenticity. Each camp comes with a dedicated, professional staff, who are as adept at turning out world-class meals on a portable stove as they are in delicately handling and shooing away pesky nighttime visitors, such as scorpions and camel spiders. In addition to my plush private sleeping quarters and tented bathroom and shower (note that everything was lit by candle or solar power), my arrangement also featured a tented lounge outfitted with traditional Omani throws and pillows that provided an opportunity to kick back and relax with a book in hand and escape the daytime heat. And that night, when I stood atop a dune and watched the sun sink into the desert, I felt a familiar sense of childlike wonder and a flood of memories, reminding me why it was so good to be standing here with my feet buried in Omani sand, once again. Photos, left: African style tents in the Wahiba; Top: Omani man with his camel; Photos courtesy of Hud Hud Mobile Camp

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New Delhi rickshaw tricycles

N e w Delh i Now A c las h of m od e rn life a n d old worlds , t h e re is a lways s om e t h in g n e w to lov e i n I n d ia’ s colorfu l c a p ita l . By M a rt in e B u ry

rickshaw ride through Old Delhi allows the kind of historical and present day sensory overload you really cannot experience anywhere else on Earth. My guide, Ashok Sharda, tells me the story of this city, which houses India’s executive, legislative and judicial branches. Pristine tree-lined streets, official buildings and precious monuments give way to crumbling apartments and a chaotic cocktail of the human experience with tangled electrical cables and wires obstructing any sightlines to the sky. He also explains that in Delhi, there are two beginnings. This drive-by history lesson casts its spell, as I am here for a glimpse of the modern day aftermath of the second chapter, when New Delhi was established in 1911 and built into a masterpiece by British architect Sir Edwin Lutyens. I wanted to see Delhi’s fresh face. With the second largest GDP in South, West and Central Asia and a population of over 23 million, this is the actual city that never sleeps.

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Thinkstock | urbancow

A Scen e I make my entrée into the mix with a stay at The Lodhi, a stone’s throw from the famed tomb of Mughal emperor Humayun, the learned, 16th century, Renaissance-style leader who considerably expanded his empire and infused the culture with Persian influences due to a brief wartime exile in Persia. Over the last two years, the hotel has remade its former identity of an ultra exclusive Aman Resorts property into a unique and approachable concept that feels more like a club or artists’ salon. Here diplomats, expats, young techies and businessmen join in the lively conversations of fashion designers and novelists over classic cocktails in the art-clad Library and Cigar Lounge. The vibrant, eclectic atmosphere is largely attributed to the husband and wife management team, Delhiite Manav Garewal and Robyn Bickford, a Kiwi expat and former diplomat with a quick wit. The convivial pair ran the hotel as part of the Aman brand, from 2009 until it was sold back to its original owner in early 2013. They immediately make me feel at home, swinging me in to drinks with other hotel guests and regulars who come back to this place time and again for the company and conversation as much as they do for the five-star, seven-acre spread of 40 rooms (including 28 apartments). It’s intoxicating and fun to experience this cross section of Delhi’s movers and shakers, who offer up tons of insider bits, from where to score a chic pair of sunglasses to the city’s best new art galleries.

Complete with a private plunge pool and silk upholstered outdoor lounging bed, my digs high above the fray offer end-to-end views of the city’s green treetops, ordered and symmetrical streets and clusters of buildings through the pinkish filter of sunset. I step onto the wraparound porch for a closer look to see what nearby structures I can recognize from past visits—India Gate, Purana Qila and Connaught Place. Even in the still, it’s hard to discern the distinct architecture of “Lutyen’s Delhi” from ancient, UNESCO World Heritage mosques. With a history of population shifts dating back to the sixth century as magnet for people from all over South Asia, and a post-Partition identity as New Delhi (1911), you can only take this place in as a whole, giving in to the undeniable energy of constant evolution and change. I decide to leave the starting point to my capable Ker & Downey guides, who meander with me as I see the sights and do what I love best here—shop. The rest comes naturally, through the amazing cast of characters I meet, for whom New Delhi has become a muse of constant discovery and metamorphosis. In the morning over breakfast with a group of hotel regulars and Bickford’s friends, I eavesdrop on a conversation between a couple of interior designers marveling over the previous day’s loot, reams of India’s rich textiles. My interest piqued, I extract what information I can to share with my guide. Ever observant, Bickford escapes into the well-appointed hotel boutique and hands me a beautifully hand-bound book, packaged in a pink and cream fabric bag, Fiona Caulfield’s Love Delhi: A Handbook for the Luxury Vagabond. “You’ll need this,” and “You must chat with Fiona.” As always with Delhi, one thing leads to the next. Even after a full day’s immersion in Delhi’s retail heaven—from the exquisite bright, sumptuous silks and hand-embroidered sarees at Ekaya in Defence Colony to heaps of artisanal goods at Fabindia in Khan Market—her words stay with me as I lay, comfortably cocooned at The Lodhi.

Photos courtesy of The Lodhi | Ekaya | Thinkstock | vmbfoto

Throughout, the hotel walls feature a revolving exhibition of contemporary Indian sculpture and artworks— all for sale—curated via collaboration with influential gallerist Sharan Apparao of Chennai’s innovative Apparao galleries. Built like a fortress, the property retains signature Aman touches in its interior architecture that lend to an elegant sort of privacy in a labyrinthine layout of cut-out stone walls and soaring windows, which act as “screens” and maintain an air of seclusion. Signature upscale eatery On the Waterfront dishes European and Asian specialties in a chic, airy dining room featuring two open kitchens and nestled next to a sleek water feature. Intimate and easygoing, casual Elan serves a selection of Indian classics as well as Western comfort foods and inspired Mediterranean cuisine. It’s the place to read the paper over breakfast or grab an al fresco, afternoon snack. It isn’t unusual for the chef to pop by your table for a quick chat about

what you crave, and then create something off-menu to your taste. A little under the weather upon my arrival, he whips up a restorative vegetable soup and sends it up, piping hot, to my room.

Photos clockwise from top: The Lodhi foyer; The India Gate at night; The vibrant Ekaya boutique KE KER R& & DOWNE DOWNEY Y

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An In side r ’s G uide Following Robyn Bickford’s sage advice, I did get in touch with Fiona Caulfield—a globe trotting Australian author, writer, journalist, explorer, sought-after public speaker and entrepreneur living the Artist’s Way in India. A long love story—she fell for the country in 2004, in Calcutta, on the way from Everest Base Camp to the Bangladeshi capital, Dhaka. Having left a lucrative career in New York, her journey ultimately resulted in the creation of the Love Travel series of guidebooks for travelers seeking a deeper, more authentic experience with a good dose of luxury and style. Caulfield has unpeeled some of Delhi’s layers and unveiled its gems—from the “back lanes off Chandni Chowk” in Old Delhi to the beloved and affluent Khan Market with must stops such as Good Earth, Anokhi and Amrapali jewelers. Here, she shares a few must-dos.

Where do you consider home? My “emotional home” is my cottage on the water at Hardys Bay, north of Sydney. My India home is Bangalore, on a leafy quiet street in India’s “city of the future.”

What I find amazing about the guides is that the design style and colors are vibrant, modern and a bit old fashioned in the illustrations and the way they are hand-bound and packaged. They remind me of India’s aesthetic with the combination of old, new and all of the color. Are you involved in the design process? Very much so, the design brief was sensuality; I wanted people to touch, smell and taste India in these books. We have intentionally created a handcrafted product, each sheet of paper is made by hand in India’s oldest papermaking village. The design, even the typography, was inspired by the early travel guides like Murray’s and Badekars.

What inspired you to write the Love Travel Guides? I was living in Manhattan working as the president of a consulting firm, and I got interested in mountain climbing. On one of these journeys, I had an idea of a different way of living and also saw the need for different kinds of travel content about the places I was visiting. These insights connected, and I moved to India in 2004 to create the Love Travel brand.

Why is New Delhi a magical place? In Delhi you can experience India’s past and India’s future. Jan Morris described Delhi as being “unimaginably antique” with a history dating back to 1000 BC. It is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. The layering of history and how this influences the future fascinates me. Delhi is both the beacon of India Modern and a linchpin to India’s past.

Where has the journey of researching and writing these books led you? India is much more than a physical journey, it becomes a journey inside. A decade later and I feel I have just scraped the surface of what India can teach us and how deep that journey can be.

Any secret spots? In a city of around 20 million people, there are few secret spots. A place I love going to is the India International Centre (www.iicdelhi.nic.in), it is an exclusive club for the city’s intellectual elite. However, their programs are open to the public and are free. Most evenings at 6:30 p.m. there is a fascinating speaker or cultural performance.

Tell us about your first visit to India? It was in 1992 and I needed to make a decision about living in London, England or Sydney, Australia and so I took a break midway in India to reflect on the choice. I was reading India: A Million Mutinies Now and the opening line really resonated. “Bombay is a crowd.” It certainly was— even at 3 a.m.!

What is the one thing you feel you have yet to discover in India? I am working on a book called Love India, which will feature the best 108 experiences in India. However, on nearly every day there is a new discovery and a potential inclusion, so I am not sure when I will finish it.

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Photos courtesy of Fiona Caulfield

A S h o p p e r ’s M e c c a:

Fion a’s Fab

Caulfield shares her favorite retail hot spots

Aap ki Pasand Tea Gallery Sterling House, 15 Netaji Subhash Marg, Delhi Gate Rd Master tea tasters Sanjay and Naina Kapur run India’s premium tea export business. Their gallery offers tea samples and provides calm respite from Old Delhi. For tea aficionados, secure a prior appointment with Sanjay or Naina for a full tasting. Try the President’s Blend, First Flush Darjeeling and the jasmine and green teas, which are excellent and packaged in pretty brocade or velvet pouches. aapkipasandtea.com

En Inde 125/126 Meherchand Market, First Floor Contemporary jewelry designer Anupama Sukh Lalvani is known for bold statement pieces, mainly hand crafted from steel and incorporating organic materials like jute, wood and shells, as well as textiles and antique elements. The sophisticated gallery boutique showcases her jewelry and a highly curated selection of fashion and home wares including the fabulous organic beauty range Ma Botanicals made by Anupma’s mother in Delhi. eninde.com

5 Sanskar by Sonam Dubal C80 Shahpur Jat, First Floor Visiting Sonam in his studio is one of my favorite Delhi experiences. His collection is nomadic and fuses together Eastern traditions and Western thought. A rich use of traditional techniques, such as hand embroidery, printing, painting and patchwork, are enhancing contemporary, classic silhouettes—divine long jackets and stunning silk kaftans. His most recent collection was based on the Caravanserai, and he is currently working on a meditation line called Tsutra. Sonam makes perfect clothes for Luxury Vagabonds the world over, and his clientele includes Deepa Mehta, Catherine Zeta Jones and Countess Tolstoy. Anthropologist Gail Percy now represents Sonam in North America and has shown at the Asia Society in New York City. sonamdubal.com

Prakriti Triveni, 205 Tansen Marg, Triveni near Bengali Market Prakriti, meaning “nature” in Hindi, is a charming garden boutique selling a beautiful range of terracotta pots, copper bells and garden ornaments. The terracotta birds are a delight. They range in price from just R45 to R150 and pack easily. This one boutique provides livelihood support to seven families in Gujarat. Fabulous!

Kashmir Loom Company C-65 Nizamuddin East | Monday to Saturday 10 a.m.–7 p.m. (appointments are essential) Come here for simply the finest shawls made in India. Suppliers to Browns, Bergdorf, Hermes and Takashimaya, KLC is a true Love Delhi experience and a joy and inspiration to visit. Jenny Housego, a renowned designer and textile historian, with a deep passion for Indian weaving and embroidery, created a joint venture with the charming brothers Asaf Ali and Hamid Ali of Srinagar (the lake capital of Kashmir). Their decade-old business celebrates traditional mountain craft skills, supporting over 100 families, and blends ongoing innovation in terms of design and product development. Must-buys include the signature candystriped silk/wool scarves and Lena cashmere shawls with the weavers’ signature embroidered on the garment. The gujjar tribal blankets (in cashmere) are heavenly. Prices range from R1,500 to R300,000 . The retail space carries the full Kashmir Loom range and a sensitively curated selection of some other designers, including superb block-printed clothes and home wares from textile artist Brigitte Singh in Jaipur, hand-woven saris by Bailou from Kolkata and hip accessories from Joli. Proudly made in India. kashmirloom.com

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The pristine Oberoi Gurgaon KE R & DOWNE Y

A Nei ghbor h o o d A thriving business center, the Gurgaon suburb of New Delhi is a burgeoning hot spot, bursting with cosmopolitan restaurants and boutiques, upscale residential real estate and multinational corporate headquarters. Proximity to Indira Gandhi International Airport makes it ideal for business travelers. The scene stealer of this emerging luxury address is the Oberoi Gurgaon, a 202-room and suite dazzler, which sits on nine pristine, thoughtfully designed acres. In such a crowded city, one really appreciates space. As I check into the Oberoi on a rainy and carnelian red evening, the cavernous, lightfilled lobby, decked in white marble floors, stuns me—breathing room at last. Even in my suite, the surrounding picture windows boast a crystal clear panorama of the property, which takes advantage of all manners of reflecting light with its architectural “mirrored” effect. A loft of pigeons plays in the rain, orchestrating their formations against a backdrop of lightning and grey skies. A few meek birds perch in my window boxes, finding a little shelter. At 1,240 square feet, the suite extends that sense of modernity and play, with its clean-lined, colorful design and creature comforts such as a huge, en suite five-fixture bathroom with two vanity counters and extra deep tub and 24hour private butler service. The hotel has a private fleet of 18 BMW 7-series vehicles to whisk guests comfortably and safely to appointments and adventures. However, everything one could possibly want is available on-property. The Oberoi Gurgaon’s adjacent luxury retail arcade is destination shopping at its finest with India’s biggest Gucci, offering the brand’s exclusive made-to-measure services. Other residents include Burberry, Jimmy Choo, Bottega Veneta and Canali, as well as an art gallery, hair salon and delicatessen. A true standout, Neel Sutra gets my attention with its raw, minimalist look and unique backstory. For 45 days at a time, the shop focuses on 11 superstar, up-and-coming and avantgarde Indian fashion designers such as Pankaj & Nidhi and Samanth Chauhan, as well as a selection of very unique sarees and stoles. The curated collections speak to the boutique’s respect for handmade, traditional weaving styles— through a very modern lens. Each dining experience at the Oberoi takes me on a journey through India. During my stay here, I opt for Indian breakfasts at the lavish morning buffet: South Indian dosa, a crisp, delicate crepe made from fermented rice and black lentils, coconut chutney and an array of beautiful curries. At dinner, I am especially captivated by the beautiful, pale palette of seafood restaurant Amaranta, which serves catch of the day from all along the Indian coastline— freshly flown-in deep sea delights from the Indian Ocean and Bay of Bengal—prepared in regional styles of Goa and Kerala. My meal at this showpiece eatery begins with a plentiful bounty of regional breads, herb-infused salts and marvelous chutneys. I am transported to simple pleasures in these lavish environs, enjoying perfectly prepared steamed fish in a banana leaf and sipping vintages from the stellar wine menu. On my final night, before the long return flight to Los Angeles, I sit at a prime table with a view of five active show kitchens at Oberoi’s Threesixtyone Degrees. A choice of Japanese sushi, wood oven-baked pizza, house-made pasta or indulgent Chinese favorites remind me of the essence of New Delhi as it is and always has been. In a city with such an intensity of historical and cultural realities, to be here, after all, is to be everywhere. 86

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Photos clockwise from top: The Oberoi Gurgaon’s lavish lobby; Amaranta’s butter pepper garlic tossed crab dish; A collection of colorful textiles at Neel Sutra.

Photos courtesy of Oberoi Gurgaon | Amaranta | Neel Sutra | Shikha Mishra

A F e a st: G u r g a on ’ s F oodie F in ds Arranged by Ker & Downey, my hip, knowledgeable guide, journalist Shikha Mishra helps me navigate Delhi’s most intriguing new eats. “In the last decade or so, Gurgaon has undergone a significant transformation with its corporate offices, swanky restaurants, glitzy malls and a number of dining, entertainment and leisure options,” says the Delhi native and popular food blogger. “But what stands out are the restaurants of Gurgaon that have upped the gourmet stakes with fresh, exciting gems that stand out like beacons in the culinary scene.” Here are Mishra’s top picks, off the beaten path.

Made in Punjab & Farzi Café

Raifu Tei

Cyber Hub, DLF Cyber City Zorawar Kalra’s Made in Punjab and Farzi Café stand next to each other in Cyber Hub and are vastly different in their food philosophies: Made in Punjab does sophisticated authentic food from Punjab and the surrounding region; while Farzi Café has the finest of modern Indian food using elements of molecular gastronomy.

Dia Park Premier, Sector 29 Japanese food, made the Japanese way—and at prices that won’t burn a hole in your wallet.

SodaBottleOpenerWala Cyber Hub, DLF Cyber City Irani Café cuisine at its best—what makes us fall in love here is the quirky, high-energy ambience.

Bernardo’s, Super Mart I DLF Phase 4 Loyalists describe it as to-die-for authentic Goan food. Head here for the best seafood in town.

Zambar, Cyber Hub DLF Cyber City

South Indian coastal cuisine at its best with Cauliflower Bezule, Andhra Chicken Vepedu, Squid Rings with Seafood Filling and Pork Sukka. Pintxo, DLF Galleria Market DLF Phase 4 Bacon-wrapped prawns … do we need to say anything else! Pintxo serves small snacks that pack a big punch.

Nooba, DLF Cyber City Tower C Great Chinese food right in the heart of corporate Gurgaon; a favored hangout of the people who live and work in the area.

Dimsum Bros Ambience Mall Try the Almond Prawn with Wasabi Mayo, Laksa Crab Dumpling and BBQ Pork Pastry to know why these are the best dumplings in town!

Gung The Palace City Centre, near Crowne Plaza, Sec. 29 Consistently good and authentic Korean food; it is a favorite with the Delhi-NCR’s Korean community and Indians with a taste for authentic dining experiences.

Fat Lulu’s, Arjun Marg DLF Shopping Centre, DLF Phase 1 This is where your search for DelhiNCR’s best pizzas should end. The base, sauce, cheese and toppings of each of the 22 pizza varieties are textbook perfect. You can choose from an array of choices in each of the four categories, making every order a new experience.

Eat@Joe’s, Cross Point Mall DLF Phase 4 A MasterChef contestant, Joe Baath dishes out Chicken Wings, Jalapeno Cheese Shots and BBQ Chicken Hotdogs with élan.

Cocktails & Dreams Speakeasy Behind Galaxy Hotel, Sector 15 Gurgaon’s best cocktails served here, without a doubt.

above &

below M ichael M c Quarn takes C harles Darwin ’ s advice to heart, from the G al á pagos I slands to the cloud forest of E cuador .

“ a m a n w ho da r e s t o wa s t e o n e hour of time has not di s c ov e r e d t h e t r u e va l u e of life.” c h a r l e s da rw i n

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on the UNESCO World Heritage list with outstanding sites such as the lavish La Compañía Church and Jesuit College and the Santo Domingo and San Francisco monasteries, with their intricate carvings, symbolism and secrets.

a s i b oa r d t h e p l a n e

Photos courtesy of Casa Gangotena | Quito Tourism

those words from Darwin echo within my head. Ecuador has always been a country on my short list of places to visit with the Galápagos Islands being the crowning gem. I make my way to my seat, put on my headphones and drift into a higher state of consciousness.

Photos: Opposite page: Casa Gangotena lobby; Above: Plazoleta de la Iglesia de la Catedral

I awake to the wheels touching down in Quito, Ecuador. After a quick jog through customs, I meet my guide and I’m quickly whisked into an awaiting Sprinter. We start our journey through the bustling city streets of Quito, the capital of Ecuador, named for the region’s original inhabitants—the Quitus. A little over 9,350 feet above sea level, Quito has a population of more than 2.6 million people. And it seems all of them have descended on the various array of outdoor markets, town squares and outdoor parks that align the winding road we travel. The guide hands me a gift bag that contains a fine selection of local chocolates and fresh local fruits, which makes the drive much more pleasant. After about an hour, I notice the architecture of the buildings have changed from newer, more modern designs to Old World charm with some dating back to the 15th century. Built upon ancient Inca ruins, the city of Quito in Pinchinada Province was established some time later, in the 16th century, and survived a cataclysmic earthquake in 1917. Still, the city survives as one of the best-preserved colonial cities in Latin America, which earned it a place

My first stop is the 31-room boutique hotel Casa Gangotena, a neo-colonial mansion surrounded by cobblestone streets, and sitting directly across from the historic Plaza San Francisco. The epitome of upscale opulence in the historic center, Quito’s finest luxury hotel was once home to several presidents. Meticulously designed by interior guru Diego Arteta, the hotel offers a sophisticated blend of Art Nouveau and Art Deco styles. My travel-weary body is welcomed by Mario, the attentive concierge, who greets me warmly as though I am an old friend who has been gone a while, and personally escorts me to my room. Through the hotel, I am awestruck by the antique chandeliers, beautiful mirrors, Egyptian marble and the perfect use of glass that brings the outside in. Pure elegance, the walls and ceiling in my guest room are hand painted and the décor is Art Deco. Long curtains dress towering, oversized windows that open up to a spectacular view overlooking the Plaza San Francisco. The buildings in the plaza exemplify the Baroque School of Quito, which fused European and indigenous styles—Spanish, Flemish, Moorish, Italian and Inca—in the architecture and distinct rectangular square layout of the streets. Even the bathroom boasts considered beauty with all-white marble, Art Deco mirrors and oversized towels. I open the large windows in the bathroom, allowing in the fresh air along with the sound of Pasillo, music that is being played in the plaza below to accompany me while I relax and soak in my oversized tile tub, and visualize the adventures that lay ahead. I opt for a relaxing night in for I have an early departure for the Galápagos.

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t h e l a n d t h at t i m e f o r g o t After a short hour and 40 minute flight, I land in the Galápagos on the island of Baltra. A tall man with a bright smile greets me named Raul, my guide and driver for the next few days. We take a short ferry ride to Santa Cruz Island and board the private transport to the hotel—the just-opened Pikaia Lodge. On a drive through the countryside Raul provides a quick lesson on everything from the history of the islands, to Darwin’s theory of evolution, to wildlife, the type of sharks and marine life I will encounter on my upcoming dives. After about 40 minutes, we approach the final stretch of the red clay road leading to the state-of-the-art eco-lodge that I will call home for the next three days. I am told I am the first guest to stay at Pikaia. Pikaia Lodge, the brainchild of Ecuadorian environmentalist and entrepreneur Herbert Frei, is changing the concept of high-end luxury travel in Galápagos from “glamping” to a standard one would expect from a chic boutique resort. Located on 77 acres of pristine private land and perched atop two extinct volcano craters lies the beautiful and masterfully designed eco-hotel. Pikaia is the first hotel to open in the Galápagos in over 15 years and, due to extremely strict conservation laws, it will probably be the last. According to Frei, “Pikaia is the most advanced eco-lodge in the world and leaves a neutral carbon footprint.” Paying its homage to Charles Darwin’s theory of evolution, the hotel masterfully uses this ethos in the design, artwork and mission. The 14 rooms are contemporary consisting of bamboo floors, Ecuadorian teak and Cuban cedar, grown in Ecuador—although no wood used in the hotel was from deforestation. The guest rooms are oriented to face northeast, not only to obstruct the sun’s heat but also to maximize the breathtaking views. On a clear day you can see no less than 10 islands. All the high-level comforts and services to be expected by any five-star hotel are available here, including private guided tours of the island and access to its own 100-foot yacht, the Pikaia 1, which can be used to cruise neighboring islands and experience things such as sightseeing, swimming, kayaking or snorkeling in one of the Seven Underwater Wonders of the World. Unlike most Galápagos resorts for the adventure obsessed, if sightseeing and watersports aren’t your thing, you can spend the day lounging by Pikaia’s infinity pool, drinking Mojitos or indulging in an array of services at the Sumaq Spa & Wellness Center—massage, infrared sauna or gym—or taking a relaxing break in the whirlpool. Private trails for walking, jogging or biking (the hotel provides TREK mountain bikes) and 3.5km of paths wind around the lodge. Venturing out, you are likely to encounter several species of birds and wild giant tortoises that graze on the property. There are several dining options at Pikaia, but all working off the same menu. You can dine in the comfort of your room, alfresco under the stars by the infinity pool or in the contemporary designed Evolution Restaurant, which offers stunning vistas of the Galápagos National Park. Executive Chef Norman Brandt has combined a unique fusion of Peruvian and Ecuadorian cuisine. Local products, such as organic beef, catch of the day fish, lobster and jumbo prawns, are the key ingredients used in making these delicacies. The restaurant has a spectacular walk-in wine cellar, which offers a fine selection of South American wines. I highly suggest trying the Chilean Malbecs. Staying at the Pikaia Lodge was an amazing experience and one that I shall cherish for a lifetime, but it is now time for me to explore the islands outside of Santa Cruz, so I pack my bags and I’m greeted by a smiling Raul and transported to the luxury cruise La Pinta.

Photos courtesy of Michael McQuarn | iStock, Timefreezer

Photos clockwise from top: The brand new Pikaia Lodgeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s unforgettable views; A sea turtle rests on the beach; Executive Chef Norman Brandt prepares fresh cuisine

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“A man’s

are one of the best measures of h i s wort h . ” c h a r l e s da rw i n

Aboard the luxury yacht La Pinta, a friendly staff greets me, and I immediately feel at home. After a short safety briefing and tour of the exquisite vessel, I am escorted to my luxury cabin, which is quite large and has floor-to-ceiling windows providing me a sense of oneness with the ocean. Designed for the ultimate luxury adventurer, La Pinta is a 207-foot 48-guest luxury cruiser, housing 24 spacious cabins with large picture windows. Common areas include a reception lounge, a lounge bar flanked by windows, a formal dining room, an outdoor jacuzzi located on the sundeck a gym, library with 60-inch TV and outdoor bar and, of course, a sundeck. Guests can pack light thanks to available equipment such as kayaks, snorkeling gear and wetsuits. In-house, naturalist guides make for an exciting and educational experience. With a quick change of clothes, I go upstairs to the Sun Deck Bar, have a glass of wine and strike up a conversation with a couple from the Italian Coast. We share stories about our love of travel and most of all our love of diving. An archipelago of volcanic islands (18 main islands, three smaller islands, as well 107 islets and rocks) in the Pacific Ocean off of Ecuador’s western coast, the Galápagos Islands straddle the equator. Scientists believe some of the region’s first islands date back possibly as far as 90 million years. Charles Darwin sailed here on the Voyage of the Beagle in 1831 and launched a series of famous studies that led to his theories of evolution and natural selection. The inspiration for our own adventures, as it was for Darwin, is the vast array of endemic species.

Photos: Above: Bluefooted boobies sighting; Opposite page: La Pinta coasting the Galápagos waters

Offering a choice of three-, four- and seven-night stays, the days on La Pinta start early, due to the exciting daily itineraries, which incorporate a full immersion into this unique ocean environment. We travel to North Seymour Island where we encounter various bird colonies, my favorite being the blue-footed boobies, sea lions and various species of land iguanas. Then it’s off to Isabela Island, famous for its dramatic lava flow remains and the abundance of wildlife. During a few hours snorkeling in the surprisingly warm waters, we see an assortment of sea lions, nurse sharks, amberjacks and a wonderland of underwater creatures. Isabela, the largest in the archipelago, was once a favorite anchorage for pirates. Today colorful land iguanas and giant tortoises heavily populate it. Depending on the time of year, it is also a great spot for whale watching. Here, the highlight is taking a challenging hike to Darwin’s Crater—which is filled with water twice as salty as the ocean next to it—and diving in for a bracing, quick dip. Stretched over the equator, the island was created by a combination of six volcanoes (five still active) and remains one of the earth’s most volatile places. It is believed that Darwin’s close proximity to the sea, combined with tidal waves caused by other volcanic eruptions, formed this natural salt lake near Tagus Cove. Water flowing in through porous rock keeps it replenished. We eagerly anticipate the adventure below the water’s surface.

Photos courtesy of Michael McQuarn | La Pinta | Previous page: istock; MakingSauce

friendships

On mangrove forest-packed Fernandina Island, the most pristine island of the archipelago, highlights include hawks, penguins and astounding topographical views. Considered the Galápagos’ youngest island, this shield volcano has been active and erupting since 2009. As a result, the mostly rock surface doesn’t support much plant life. No mammals have been introduced here. But many small animals and bird species have adapted well, including the populous flightless cormorant. The last island I visit with La Pinta is Santa Cruz Island, which is my favorite. With red sand beaches and an array of wildlife exclusive to this island, I observe mockingbirds, yellow warblers and Darwin finches and have the once-in-a-lifetime experience of swimming with black marine iguanas. I had grown quite fond of my new friends, but with my time up at La Pinta, I have to say goodbye. We dock back at Baltra Island and head into town and meet up with a local dive buddy of mine and organize plans to go diving for hammerhead sharks, which heavily populate the waters around the Galápagos. I stay the night at the Finch Bay Hotel and embark early the next morning for my dive trip. The next day we head out to Roca Redonda, an underwater volcano located off of Isabela Island. As the cold salt water hits my mask, I am truly home, diving down about 60 feet and happy to meet a school of barracudas that immediately surround me. It is a clear day, so the sunlight shining off their bodies reminds me of twinkling stars. I soon encounter a lone sea turtle, and as I swim with him, the ocean darkens. Off in the near distance, a school of what seemed like hundreds of hammerhead sharks glide serenely, unencumbered. After checking my tank for air, my buddy and I dive down to the bottom and watch the prehistoric images of the hammerheads slowly swimming above us. This very scene is why I came to the Galápagos, and I was like a kid in a candy store.

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w i t h t h e g a l á pa g o s b e h i n d m e , it’s now time for me to explore the higher terrain of Ecuador. Three hours outside of Quito, Mashpi Lodge is a fantastical, modern escape that sits 3,116 feet above sea level in the Ecuadorian Andes cloud forest and is located in the 3,200-acre Mashpi Rainforest Biodiversity Reserve. Distinguished in the dense, green jungle by towering walls of glass and steel, this 22-room architectural masterpiece feels like a luxurious cocoon that overlooks the forest canopy and allows for breathtaking views and nature watching out of any available window.

Photos: Opposite page: A peaceful waterfall enlights hikers; Left: The Yaku suite at Mashpi Lodge; Below: Adventurers become one with the forest

The rooms at Mashpi are quite large and have an open and natural light-filled design. The décor is minimalistic and the slate floors, glass walls and Philippe Starck bathtubs make the rooms more than satisfying for the five-star traveler. Meals take place in the twostory dining room with floor-to-ceiling glass windows and sparse design. It’s a sleek counterbalance to the warmth and comfort of traditional Ecuadorean cuisine, which is served buffet style.

“ t h e lov e f or a l l l i v i n g c r e at u r e s is the most noble at t r i b u t e o f m a n . ”

Photos courtesy of Mashpi Lodge| Michael McQuarn

c h a r l e s da rw i n

Despite the seclusion, Mashpi Lodge, designed to entertain the worldliest nature lover, is teeming with neighbors—over 500 species of birds including 36 endemics, some 200 species of butterflies, monkeys, peccaries and even pumas. The hotel is an immersion in the cloud forest, imparting the sense of being aloft. Private, guided tours take us through two main trails Howler Monkey and Cucharillo. Along these trails, I learn about the various plants, animals and insects that inhabit this reserve. I also have the opportunity to climb the eight-story metallic structure known as the Observation Tower, giving me a birds-eye view ideal for spotting toucans, woodpeckers, barbets, tanagers and parrots, along with providing one of the best photo opportunities the reserve has to offer. About a 10-minute hike from the hotel, the Sky Bike provides an amazing experience and unique vantage point for sightseeing over the canopy, at a slow and considered pace. I pedal the bike along a cable that’s stretched hundreds of feet about the forest floor. At the end of the hike, a refreshing dip in one of the many cascades and pools formed by several small surrounding waterfalls remedies any sweat I’ve worked up. With all of the available luxuries and high-flying adventure, Ecuador’s natural beauty always draws you back in. A diamond both refined and in the rough, this country is still an untapped naturalist’s dream.

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Cheetahs in the Koptje Serengeti Bany an Tree A l Wadi , UA E

the

U nexplored

Serengeti Seeking big cats, Kelly Phillips Badal explores Tanzania’s untouched Soit Le Motonyi region—reopened after a 20-year hiatus— from Asilia Africa's newest luxury camp. PHO T OG R APH Y B Y T a n v e e r B a d a l

With the sun sinking fast , I sit transfixed. Fifty feet away, a mature male lion is stalking a younger male, his muscular body parting the eastern Serengeti grasses. He's mythical Aslan of Narnia brought to life—majestic, confident and proud—and suddenly he's a golden bullet, racing forward, roaring thunderously. The younger male turns and flees. The chase is on. Their sounds attract two other brawny males, presumably the older male's pack mates. Within seconds they're at his heels, running off the competitor as a team. In the fading light their shapes dim quickly, though their deep roars still echo distantly. Elated, I let out a long breath as my guide from Asilia Africa, Ernesto Macha, turns our jeep toward Asilia's newest seasonal lodge, Namiri Plains Camp. As we rumble along and my husband and I excitedly recount the scene, it hits me: No other tourists witnessed this electrifying encounter. No cameras blocked ours, no one stood or talked, no other jeeps cut off the action. For the first time ever, we were completely alone in the great Serengeti.

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In a park that sees some 200,000 visitors each year , moments like these are few and far between. But in this section of the eastern Serengeti—Soit Le Motonyi—things are quite different. A secluded stretch of land where the short grasses of the plains meet the acacia woodlands, Soit Le Motonyi has been closed to tourism for almost two decades to protect a fragile environment that holds key cheetah breeding grounds. A rather visionary management plan designated this area as a “No Access Zone,” with the intent that it “only be affected by forces of nature with human’s imprint substantially unnoticed.” In the popular Serengeti, this is one of the few truly wild places left. The land is barely tire-tracked. Until recently, no one save a handful of cheetah and lion researchers has ever set eyes on this place, explains my guide. But as of July, the Tanzanian parks management re-opened Soit Le Motonyi to limited visitation and green-lit Asilia’s camp, Namiri Plains, as the area’s sole accommodation. The word is that cheetahs, lions, leopards and other resident animals here are thriving. Now, Soit Le Motonyi just might be the best place in the Serengeti—and perhaps in the world—to see big cats undisturbed. For what little safari-goers have seen of it, Soit Le Motonyi is well documented. Since 1966, in one of the longest continuous field studies of the species, more than 200 individual lions from 12 different prides have been identified in these eastern grasslands (and about 2,800 live in the whole south eastern region). Wildlife biologist George Schaller's well-known book, “The Serengeti Lions,” focuses on the area. Cheetah studies ongoing since 1976 estimate that the Soit Le Motonyi area and surrounds contains a high density of the speedy cat—50 to 80 adults call it home at any given time. Thirty-strong packs of hyena have been seen hunting here, too. In addition to the commonly found grazers such as elephant, giraffe, zebra, waterbuck, steenbok and warthog, the migrating wildebeest mega herds—the Serengeti’s most famous animals—stop by to feast on the fertile fields between November and April. In short, Soit Le Motonyi is big cat country with almost every other four-legged wild creature tossed in as a bonus. And I couldn't wait to explore it from my base at Namiri Plains Camp.

Opposite page Elephant in the Serengeti; Top right: Lion pride

Even though I'm one of the first visitors to Namiri, a name meaning "big cat" in Swahili, the camp had already seen a fair share of feline encounters. Over dinner, assistant manager Blessed Mpofu tells me he'd seen two cheetahs walk right past guests seated at breakfast, watched a roaring lion lope between two tents, and was even trapped for a few tense minutes in his own tent by another lion, who passed "so close by I could hear him breathing," he recalls. To slow my rapid heart rate, he also tells me of a cheetah mother of three fluffy, weeks-old cubs spotted when initially scouting for the camp's location. Still, as I zip my tent door shut in the dark, I feel a bit better knowing that flashlight-wielding guards keep watch over the grounds all night.

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Badal relaxes at the peaceful Namiri Plains camp

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At daybreak, the harmonious design of Namiri Plains Camp is revealed. Six luxury canvas tents sit camouflaged among tall acacia trees. Rocks mark out small paths, and a few simple couches and swings offer up quiet spots that overlook the nearby river or plains. No fences or barriers of any kind mar the view. Yet as understated and remote as Namiri is (the next closest camp is 70km away), its creature comforts run five star. The multi-room tents feature soft white beds, velvety armchairs, graphic rugs and hand-crafted jacaranda-pod chandeliers, all sourced from East African countries. An enclosed porch, beset with sling chairs, hugs the entrance and an attached bathroom with a flush toilet and generous bucket shower complete each suite. Coffee, tea and treats are delivered to your door when you wake; later on, wine, beer or cocktails round out gourmet meals. And due to its small size, even at full capacity the camp feels hushed. We chat and swap safari stories with other guests, then climb into our respective jeeps to set out across Soit Le Motonyi. Within minutes, everyone has disappeared from sight, without even dust plumes marking in their trails. Soit is just that big. "When I was young and first saw these plains, I imagined that if I could reach the end, I could touch the sky," murmurs Macha, as we gaze across the waving yellow sea. My husband, a professional photographer, doesn't even wait for animals to appear before pulling out his camera. He points his lens at the tawny plains, toward the scattered trees that punctuate them, and at dramatic kopjes (gigantic granite rock formations) that rise up as we wind our way through the region. The land is starkly beautiful, a live unveiling of the classic endless grasslands featured in numerous safari documentaries, postcard worthy from every angle. And though it looks empty at first glance, life is everywhere. A lion lazes atop one of the kopjes. An elephant poses next to an acacia tree just as we draw near. We track a grey kite, spotted swooping low over the grasses to hunt for rodents, then watch it devour the small prey. Two bat-eared foxes look like small rocks until we move closer to see their oversized ears and liquidblack eyes fixated on our jeep. As the hours pass, my eyes constantly sweep the land in search of cheetah, but for today, the shy cats stay out of sight. On the last morning, I push open my tent flap to see three giraffes nibbling on the acacia trees nearby, their necks weaving among the branches. I watch groups of zebra grazing in the distance during breakfast. Silverback jackals, a pair of hyena, waterbuck and warthog families highlight a peaceful morning game drive. And in the afternoon, it happens. A sinuous shape slides out of the long grasses. “It's a cheetah,” whispers my guide, “a female on her own.” We drive parallel to her as she paces along, unhurried and unaware that she's the star of Soit Le Motonyi. We watch her for a quarter hour; our camera shutters the only sounds, until she silently glides away. As I tear my eyes away from her, the realization hits me again: No one else witnessed these moments. Once more, this encounter—and it seems, this whole section of the Serengeti—is mine alone. And that's a story I suddenly can't wait to share.

Clockwise from top: Namiri Plains dining area; Cheetah laying in the grass; Guest Tent interior

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The Temples of Bagan at sunrise, Myanmar

the

Itinerary A W eek in M yanma r By e r i c r o s e n

Long closed off to the rest of the world, the one-time colonial outpost of Burma (now known as Myanmar) is back on the international jet-set agenda. Now is the perfect time to visit its untold cultural riches before the rest of the world rediscovers this untouched Southeast Asian jewel.

Yangon | D a y s 1 – 2 | A city visit culminates with the golden gleam of the Shwedagon Pagoda lit up at twilight. St r an d H otel

Bagan | D a y s 3 – 4 | Climb to the top of Shwesandaw Paya in the famed complex to bask in the 360-degree view of stupa tops. A u r eum P alace B agan

I nle L ake | D a y s 5 – 6 | Cruise in a private longboat to remote villages for a glimpse at authentic local life. P r i s tine L otu s Spa Re s o r t

Yangon | D a y 7 | Departure Sule Shang r i - L a

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Day 1–2: Yangon Your first destination in this fascinating country will be its largest city and former capital, Yangon (you might also recognize it by its colonial name of Rangoon). This is a bustling metropolis but operates at a more sedate pace than Southeast Asia’s other urban centers. Spend the afternoon relaxing in colonial-era splendor at the venerable Strand Hotel (their afternoon tea is practically a local institution) and pop around the corner to Monsoon for some traditional Burmese dishes before turning in for the night. The following morning, your Ker & Downey guide will be on hand to show you around the city, including the unassuming 2,000-year-old Sule Pagoda and the enormous reclining Buddha at Chauk Htat Gyi Pagoda. The fascinating historical and cultural exhibits at the National Museum of Myanmar include replicas of the eight royal thrones of Burma, and you can bargain for everything from hand-woven fabrics to brilliant gemstones at the Bogyoke Aung San Market. Perhaps the city’s oldest, but certainly its most famous landmark, gleaming golden Shwedagon Pagoda towers over 300 feet high and contains holy relics that draw devout pilgrims from all over Myanmar and the Buddhist world alike. Dusk is the perfect time to visit to join the reverent crowds and take in this awesome sight in the perfect lighting. Linger over dinner at House of Memories, a gourmet Burmese restaurant housed in the century-old, timbered Nath Villa that was once the offices of Burmese independence hero Aung San. Your dinner might include specialties like mango pork curry, fried cauliflower with tamarind sauce and a spring garlic curry made with tender river fish. Don’t stay too late, though, because you have an early flight to catch in the morning. Photos clockwise from top left: Buddha at Chauk Htat Gyi Pagoda; Inle lake weaver;

Days 3–4: Bagan Your plane from Yangon to Bagan departs pre-dawn, but the better to maximize your time in this little-known wonder of the ancient world. After your hour-long flight, you will be met at the airport by your Ker & Downey guide and shown around this spectacular site in the comfort of your own private vehicle. A former capital of imperial Burma, Bagan is an enormous complex of temples and palaces dating to the 10th century that number over 4,000. Everywhere you look on this dry plain flanked by the wide Ayeyarwaddy River, you will see red brick stupas poking up above the tree line. Your first

Photos courtesy of Thinkstock, sihasakprachum; Thinkstock; nattanan726;

morning will be a survey of some of the most majestic, including the golden Shwezigon Pagoda, the imposing Dhammayangyi Temple, and the elegantly styled Sulamani, which means “crown jewel” in the local Pali language. Be sure to visit Gubyaukgyi to see its jaw-dropping frescoes before retiring to the azure pool at the Aureum Palace Bagan for a light midday lunch and siesta. Once the heat has passed, you will return to the temple trail and sights like the filigreed towers of Ananda Paya. Just before sunset, you will climb the terraced pyramid of Shwesandaw Paya for picture-perfect 360-degree views.

Days 5–6: Inle Lake Your destination today is two quick 20-minute flights (there is a stop in Mandalay) to the town of Heho, which is the gateway to the bucolic region of Inle Lake. Almost a mile above sea level, the lake is a sunny but temperate zone where travelers are transported back to a traditional way of life that feels centuries old. After a pickup by your Ker & Downey guide and driver at the airport, you will be ferried in a private longboat to your hotel. Spend your first day relaxing in the spacious villas at the Pristine Lotus Spa Resort on the lake’s western bank, or venture out on a bicycle to explore the local villages, renowned for their therapeutic hot springs and yellow tofu. The following day, your Ker & Downey guide will pick you up (again in your very own longboat) for a day out cruising the lake’s waterways and stilted villages. You will catch the traveling open-air market wherever it happens to be that day, explore the picturesque ruined stupas of Indein, admire the five golden Buddha statues and state barge at Phaung Daw Oo Paya, and visit silversmith and lotus-weaving villages. Stop for a gourmet lunch at the lovingly restored Inthar Heritage House before continuing on to the fisherman’s village where, if you are lucky, you will catch industrious villagers plying their trade and casting their nets from their dugout canoes, much as they have done for centuries.

Sule Shangri-La lobby; Fisherman at Inle lake

Marvel at the sprawling floating farms on your way to the imposing Nga Phe Kyaung monastery, a famous center for learning in this region, and then stop for a snack of homemade rice crackers at a nearby village before returning to your hotel for a restful evening and a spectacular lakeside sunset.

Eric Rosen; Sule Shangri-La

The following day, set off on the 90-minute drive to the lush slopes of Mount Popa, traditionally considered the home of ancient nature spirits in Burmese lore. Along the way, you will stop at a palm-sugar farm and hike through mountain villages to meet the locals and learn about their way of life. By lunchtime, you will be ready for the panoramic vistas from the dining terrace at the Mount Popa Lodge. Afterwards, you will make it back to Bagan in time to freshen up before a sunset river cruise where the only question will be whether the sunset in the sky or reflected in the river is more stunning. Get to bed early, because you’ve got another morning flight to catch.

Day 7: Yangon You have one final afternoon in the city to pick up a few last-minute presents. Drop your things at the top modern luxury hotel in the city, the Sule Shangri-La, and head to Pomelo, a charming little boutique on the third floor of an unassuming building down near the Strand for fair trade arts and crafts sourced from all over the country. These are things you won’t find anywhere else and that you can savor as souvenirs of your trip or hand out to jealous friends back home. KE R & DOWNE Y

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Luang Prabang

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experience L uang P r abang By e r i c r o s e n

Once the royal capital of the kingdom of Laos, the thriving town of Luang Prabang today is an appealing mĂŠlange of traditional Laotian culture, French colonial influences and international enterprises that offers visitors an unparalleled glimpse into this unique Southeast Asian countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s culture. Writer Eric Rosen takes part in ritual and tradition in this slice of paradise.

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Photos clockwise from top left: Handing out rice to monks; A local street food market; Playing tug of war with Maxi; Riding elephants in Luang Prabang; Woman at a local temple; Tamarind dinner

I blink awake and find my room is still dark. Is it already 5:00 a.m.? It seems like I just shut my eyes after a meal of local specialties like lime and lemongrass-infused river fish at the 3 Nagas restaurant, but yes, indeed, it is time to get up. I fumble on some clothes then cross the street to meet my chipper Ker & Downey guide, who greets me by name (this is our first encounter) and cheerfully hands me a basket of steaming rice he has commandeered for me from a smiling local lady who wishes me good morning as well. We wait on the town’s main street as a procession of what seems like hundreds of saffron-robed monks from the dozens of monasteries in and around town file past for their daily alms. Beside me kneel devout locals, silently spooning rice and vegetables into the monks’ empty baskets. Most of these boys are just teenagers who studiously avoid eye contact—speaking to them during their morning ritual is forbidden—but a few cannot help but steal a curious glance at me as I hand out my own bounty of plain white rice. The moment seems gone almost as soon as it began, but I realize nearly half an hour has passed since I started handing out alms to the monks and had been overtaken by the solemnity and reverence of it all. Whether you participate in the actual alms giving or simply watch from a respectful distance, this simple ceremony will start your day on a thought-provoking and contemplative note. I do not contemplate long, though. After a fortifying breakfast of rice crepe stuffed with spice pork, carrots and mushrooms, we take a wander through some of the town’s landmark 16th-century temples. Next, we stroll through the main food market with everything from lizards and bats to dragon fruit and dried herbs on display, and then it is time to head out to the hinterlands. My destination is the Shangri-Lao Elephant Village, 20 miles from town on a scenic stretch of the Nam Khan River. Although I do not have time for a two-day expedition down the river or an overnight in one of the kitted-out Explorer Camp tents, I spend my morning learning about the camp’s local preservation and employment efforts as well as meet the on-staff veterinarian for a quick but fascinating tutorial on pachyderm health and wellbeing. Then it is time to get to know my elephant for the morning and her mahout as we make the quick trek down the riverbank, across the stream and over to an

enclosure to visit the camp’s baby elephant Maxi. He and his mother come here for a few hours a day to feast on bananas, though Maxi seems to spend more of his time teasing visitors with his trunk and trying to entice them into a bout of tug of war (I lost to this 500 pound toddler). On the way back, we have a refreshing dip in the river—be sure to wash behind your elephant’s ears, they love that—and then it is (all too soon) time for me to go. But I have an appointment back in town, and it is one I do not want to miss. Southwest of town is a cultural center called Ock Pop Tok, where guests can not only enjoy a meal of local Lao specialties like curries, fried riverweed with buffalo jam and grilled fish, but they can also take half-day, day-long or multi-day courses in local handicrafts. There is everything from fabric dyeing to indigo stenciling and even learning how to work a traditional loom and weave the complex geometric patterns for which Lao textiles are so famous. This is more than just an arts-and-crafts show and tell, though. Ock Pop Tok is a social enterprise. Co-founders Joanna Smith (an English expat) and Lao native Veomanee Douangdala launched the endeavor back in 2000, and since then, it has grown to include a living crafts center where visitors can interact with local artisans as well as an upscale boutique in the heart of town. But perhaps most importantly, the pair has helped communities all over the country establish self-sustaining and fair-trade cottage industries by creating a bustling point of sale for the one-of-a-kind local crafts. I spend all afternoon here learning about the various ethnic groups with which the center works, but next time I am coming back to weave my own scarf! There is just enough time to grab an espresso at Saffron Coffee back in town to perk me up before dinner. The American founder, David Dale, came to Laos a few years ago and fell in love with the country. So much so, that he is now helping local farmers cultivate long-dormant century-old coffee plantations in the mountain regions around town purveying their beans throughout Southeast Asia. That evening, an entire Lao feast is in store at Tamarind, where visitors can take daily cooking classes. The prix fixe meal starts off with an earthy bamboo and vegetable soup and is followed by a mouthwatering platter of local favorites like savory sausage, eggplant and tomato dips, and herbed fish lemongrass chicken. I almost think I won’t have room for the dessert of purple sticky rice with rich, citrusy tamarind sauce. Almost. But one more bite couldn’t hurt. After all, the evening is just getting started, and I have an appointment first thing in the morning with the monks again. KE R & DOWNE Y

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the

SHOT O n e p i ctur e , o n e m o m e n t, o n e m e m o ry by p h oto g r a p h e r a n d r e w h a n c o ck .

“I was traveling with a group documenting the glacier as well as the fjords and flatlands all along the southern edge of Iceland. Late summer was particularly enchanting, as the skies would stay illuminated until past midnight and then brighten back up around 4 a.m.—a far contrast from what I have experienced in the arctic circle of Norway in winter. This photograph was taken in southeast Iceland from the side of a mountain overlooking a tongue of the Vatnajökull glacier—the largest in Europe, covering numerous volcanoes. While working, I noticed some movement on the glacier. The more I looked, the more I saw movement from what looked like ants at such a distance. With a telephoto lens, I could see that they were ice climbers exploring the several-thousand-year-old ice formation as it slowly makes its way to sea. I tracked the group as they made their way down the tongue atop a ridge of ice and then back to the side of the mountain overlooking the small glacial lagoon.”

Andrew Hancock is an advertising and editorial photographer currently based out of Indianapolis. A Nikon Ambassador with a passion for creating dynamic visuals, his work has graced the covers of Sports Illustrated, TIME, Nikon World and the front page of the New York Times. A photographer with a unique blend of talents spanning a variety of photographic disciplines, including sports and action, portrait, travel and photojournalism, Hancock has also worked on advertising campaigns for clients around the world. KE R & DOWNE Y

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asia

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Forget group tours, long lines, or shared experiences; with Ker & Downey, everything is a completely tailored fit and our artist’s signature is threaded throughout in all the care taken for every detail. Let us offer you the opportunity for something rare and exotic, an exclusive journey that no one else can duplicate, and a one-of-a-kind adventure filled with the thrill of experience and the luxury of privacy. This is Ker & Downey.