I s s u e n o. 5 2 | S u m m e r 2 0 2 0
E
Almanac 3 Zinnen Dolomites
Available free of charge at tourism associations and member companies
Foto: Drei Zinnen Marketing Wisthaler - Greber
Your individual holidays in the Dolomites At the Apparthotel Germania you will book more than just a room – you book an exclusive world of well-being. Whether you choose a hotel room or a holiday apartment, be sure of one thing: in any case, your stay with us will remain unforgotten!
Via Dolomiti 44 Dobbiaco · Tel. +39 0474 972160 · info@apparthotel-germania.com www.apparthotel-germania.com
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5th SEPTEMBER 2020
12th – 13th SEP. 2020 Farmers and crafts market
27th Nov – 06th Jan 2021 A Christmas market in the sign of tradition and naturalness
www.innichen.it
Highlights at San Candido
www.sancandido.info
©S. Achorner
Dear guests of the holiday region 3 Zinnen in the Dolomites, Welcome to your dream vacation in the mountains! Majestic peaks and lush green alpine pastures, shady forests and colourful meadows, easy hiking trails and challenging vie ferrate, spectacular views and secluded spots, refreshing spring water and fragrant flowers and herbs, rustic woodsheds and traditional alpine huts, dirndls and lederhosen ... all this and much more is what you can look forward to during your holidays in the mountains! Too good to be true? Not with us! You will see that in the holiday region 3 Zinnen in the Dolomites, this picture book idyll becomes a reality! Nestled in the unique Dolomites UNESCO world heritage site, on the threshold between living traditions and modern infrastructures, between Tyrolean down- to-earthness and Mediterranean influences, the holiday region offers a wide range of lodging establishments, culinary delights and leisure and sports opportunities of all kinds. Not to mention the incomparable countryside with its colourful potpourri of flora and fauna ... Of course, with such a selection you are spoiled for choice, however, whatever you want from your perfect vacation in the mountains, you will surely find it here. With this in mind, enjoy your time with us in the holiday region 3 Zinnen in the Dolomites, get to know the province and its people, experience exciting adventures and recharge your batteries. As always, you can find inspiration for your stay in the current edition of our guest magazine "Almanac – 3 Zinnen Dolomites". In the following articles, we present some of our very personal favourite places, we take you on a journey through our fascinating, natural beauty and meander along the traces of our history with you. As a result of the worldwide Corona virus crisis, we are currently faced with an exceptional situation. We have therefore largely dispensed with providing specific information regarding scheduled events in this year’s summer edition, which were not yet precisely defined at the time of going to press. In this context we recommend you, dear guests, find out about the required information on the respective websites of the event organisers or tourist destinations. In addition, we as the tourism associations are at your disposal for further information and tips! We wish you a wonderful and unforgettable vacation! Your Tourism Associations in the holiday region 3 Zinnen in the Dolomites 4
OUR HOUSE. YOUR HOTEL.
Sporthotel Tyrol **** | Via Drava 12 San Candido | Tel. +39 0474 913 198 | info@sporthoteltyrol.it | www.sporthoteltyrol.it
In this edition
Summer 2020
Great fun with the Gigante Baranci
The beeyard ain’t no place for a woman …
Hiking in autumn
The enchanting adventure park
but at the Three Peaks
��������������������������������������������������������������������� 41
����������������������������������������������������������������� 8–11
this is not the case!
Hiking program in autumn
������������������������������������������������������������� 26–27
Feeling the heights Climbing tours in the Dolomites ��������������������������������������������������������������� 12–15
������������������������������������������������������������� 42–43
Forest stories and herbal tales Impressive special
Mountain biking: for yourself and others
Get social!
exhibition at Dolomythos ������������������������������������������������������������� 28–29
MOUNTAIN BIKING: FOR YOURSELF AND OTHERS
Mountain paradise �������������������������������������������������������������� 16–19
Where the music plays Cultural Centre
Forging a success story out of a Fistful of Bikes
in Dobbiaco/Toblach �������������������������������������������������������������� 30–33
In conversation with Karl Fritz Schmidhofer
Disturbing Odyssey
�������������������������������������������������������������� 20–21
The special and clan prisoners
16–19
�������������������������������������������������������������� 34–36
The beeyard ain’t no place for a woman …
Healing water in the forest Bad Altprags/Bagni di Braies
Burning mountains
Vecchia and Bad Neuprags/
Sacred Heart
Bagni di Braies Nuova
of Jesus fire
�������������������������������������������������������������� 23–25
������������������������������������������������������������� 38–40
but at the Three Peaks this is not the case!
26–27
»
Great fun with the Gigante Baranci
8–11
Where the music plays
Hiking in autumn 30–33
41
CREDITS Our partner:
Publication date: June & December (twice a year: summer & winter) Editor: Tourism Associations in the holiday region 3 Zinnen in the Dolomites Editor in charge: Michael Wachtler Grafics and layout: Werbeagentur Rotwild (Brixen) – www.rotwild.it | Printing: Südtirol Druck Editorial office & coordination: Judith Steinmair Translations: “porta germanica” Cover: Manuel Kottersteger All information is subject to change
6
ŠM. Kottersteger
7
ŠM. Kottersteger
8
Great fun with the Gigante Baranci The Dolomites are a legendary mountainscape–in the truest sense of the word. The protagonist of one of the most exciting stories is the Gigante Baranci, who has come back to life in a most charming manner. The enchanting adventure park at Monte Baranci near San Candido/Innichen attracts guests of all ages. Whilst it may not be the most spectacular or the highest mountain in the holiday region 3 Zinnen in the Dolomites with only 1,739 metres, Monte Baranci is definitely the most entertaining. Children love the Monte Baranci, San Candido’s landmark mountain, because this is where they can visit the mysterious giant. His unusual story started when, as a small child, he drank from a magic spring which gave him supernatural powers. He grew into a giant and developed unbelievable strength. The people in the valley were obviously very impressed and asked him to assist them with the construction of the Collegiate Church San Candidol. As a reward, he was given a decent ration of food and drink every day, which included a barrel of wine, a grilled calf and a large sack of potatoes.
9
©M. Kottersteger
©M. Kottersteger
©M. Kottersteger
In return, the visitors can look forward to excit-
mountain station there is a giant jumping castle,
ing adventures at the different stations along
followed by the ‘Dwarf Village’. The dwarfs used
the loop path following the giant’s tracks at
to be quite important to the giant, because they
Monte Baranci. With the 4-seater chairlift in
were his assistants and they served him well.
San Candido, Monte Baranci fans can comfort-
The ‘Dwarf Village’ is an exciting world in itself
ably glide up the mountain. Right next to the
with small tree houses, the dwarf huts, with
mountain station, the ‘Dwarf Parcours’ begins,
ladders over which one can scramble, and with
a high rope course where the kids can test their
the footprint lakes, where one can experience
dexterity and climbing skills. After this, the best
how gargantuan the giant was and where one
idea is to follow the family loop path leading
can walk through the water in his tracks.
past different giant stations. Right next to the
10
©M. Kottersteger
Such adventurous activities will soon cause
Funbob, goes downhill quickly, with rapid, sharp
everyone to get hungry and thirsty. So, it is just
bends over a distance of 1.7 km. For those who
as well that the ‘Dwarf Village’ is located right
are undecided whether they want to go downhill
next to the Rifugio Gigante Baranci mountain
so quickly, a zippy ride on the tubing track with
hut named after the giant. Here you can replen-
the tyres may be an alternative. Another tip at
ish yourself with South Tyrolean specialties. The
the end: After all, visiting the giant with other
Haunold burger is particularly popular with the
children is even more fun.
kids. The kids can continue to play in the giant’s realm while their parents relax on the terrace. This way, everybody is well prepared for the next highlight: Italy’s first summer toboggan run, the
Georg Weindl (Author)
11
Feeling the They are the absolute classic
climbing tours in the Dolomites.
Alpine history was written around
the area of the Three Peaks (Drei Zinnen) mountain range. The holiday region
3 Zinnen in the Dolomites still offers excellent tours and unforgettable adventures with summit tours,
high rope parks and vie ferrate.
ŠE. Rainer
12
13
The path through the Rienztal valley in the foot-
renovated and improved. The Silvesterbach
steps of Paul Grohmann is a route steeped in
brook is of great importance for Dobbiaco/
history. This is what Franz Innerkofler, who first
Toblach, as its water delivers energy for many
ascended the Große Zinne mountain, and Franz
craft workshops and the nearby Toblacher Feld
Innerkofler, a legendary mountain guide and
field functions as an important watershed. You
first ascendant of the North face of the Kleine
can learn a lot about this history on the loop
Zinne mountain, called home. The great Emilio
trail. The little-known Cadini mountain range
Comici also achieved some spectacular first
right next door with its attractive routes and a
ascents here. Today, the Drei Zinnen mountains
very good rock quality serves as good prepara-
are among the most popular and sought-after
tion or a quieter alternative to the Three Peaks
destinations for Alpine climbers. The famous
mountain range.
peaks are of course only the figurehead of this high-calibre region for alpinists. The region
The selection of summit routes and vie
offers an unusually large and varied range of
ferrate is spectacular and varied here. Around
routes, vie ferrate and high rope parks.
the Three Peaks, the Paternkofel, Rotwand and nearby Dreischusterspitze mountains there are
You do not have to be an extreme mountaineer
many charming vie ferrate. A highlight is the
to experience the fascination of Three Peaks
‘Dolomites without borders project’, in which
and Sextner Dolomites mountain range up
twelve vie ferrate lead from the Three Peaks
close. There are a number of easy excursions
over the Cadoretal valley to the Gailtal valley in
to get you started, such as the Silvesterkreis
Tyrol, Austria. The mountain guides and Alpine
loop hiking trail in the Pfannbachtal valley or
schools in the region 3 Zinnen in the Dolomites
the Wildbachsteig trail, which has recently been
are the perfect partners to advise which routes and vie ferrate are the best choice for your own tour. They have the best tips and professionally
©E. Rainer
accompany and assist the mountaineering fans.
©E. Rainer
14
The numerous attractive high rope parks underline that this region is a paradise for climbers. They offer a unique combination of sporty standards and scenic landscapes, such as the climbing crags at the Dürrensee lake, of Landro and Scheweg-Franchi in the Höhlensteintal valley between Dobbiaco and Cortina d’Ampezzo. Climbing for every taste and every level, that’s what the region 3 Zinnen in the Dolomites stands for— and also in all weather conditions. Because with the two climbing halls in Sesto/Sexten and Dobbiaco/ Toblach there are first-class bad weather alterna-
Registration for the Pastry Workshop Discover, enjoy, shop! INFO: www.loacker.com
Panzendorf 196 9919 Heinfels - Austria Registration
tives and training opportunities. The Dolomit Arena in Sesto has a climbing area of 1,800 m 2 and a 400 m 2 bouldering surface with a height of up to 16.5 m, plus levels of difficulties from 3 to 8b+. In the Dobbiaco Nordic Arena, there are climbing walls with a height of up to 23 m and difficulty levels from 4b to
Pure goodness!
9a, including a bouldering room available. The fact that the region around the Three Peaks is an absolute hotspot for alpinists is also underlined by the annual Dolorock Festival, where climbing fans and professionals from all over the world meet on the last weekend in May. Georg Weindl (Author)
Open daily!
©H. Wisthaler
MOUNTAIN BIKING: FOR YOURSELF AND OTHERS
©Rocky Mountains
T H E H O C H P U S T E R TA L V A L L E Y I S A M O U N TA I N P A R A D I S E W H E R E M O U N TA I N B I K E R S C A N F I N D THE RIGHT ROUTES DEPENDING ON THEIR ABILITY AND FITNESS—FOR FUN, FOR SPORTING SUCCESS OR FOR A GOOD CAUSE.
16
» E I T H E R WAY , T H E B I K E R E G I O N 3 ZINNEN IN THE DOLOMITES WITH ITS INCOMPARABLE BACKDROP OF RUGGED ROCK PEAKS HAS LONG BEEN A H O T S P O T F O R M O U N TA I N B I K E R S . There are many answers to some questions. For example, if you ask about the most beautiful mountain bike route in the Hochpustertal valley, you will get many answers—and they are all correct. Some mountain bikers love the seemingly endless gravel path to the Marchkinkele peak, others the routes on the Plätzwiese high plateau with an amazing view of the Monte Cristallo mountain. Anyone who appreciates trails can let off steam on the Giro Bike Tour over five mountains and almost 3,500 metres of difference in altitude—most of the strenuous uphill riding is done here by the cable ways—or on the legendary Stoneman Trail, which follows the Karnischer Kamm mountain range affording great views that true aficionados cannot help but rave about. Either way, the bike region 3 Zinnen in the Dolomites with its incomparable
©Rocky Mountains
backdrop of rugged rock peaks has long been a hotspot for mountain bikers. It is therefore no wonder that many mountain
In the multi-day stage race through the mag-
bikers like to stop in the Hochpustertal val-
nificent mountains of the Dolomites there is
ley as part of a multi-day tour—or start right
a ‘Classic’ as well as a much longer and more
here; for example as part of the TransTirol Bike
demanding ‘Challenge’ tour, but timekeeping
Rallye, which starts in the village of Villabassa/
is deliberately avoided. The perfectly planned
Niederdorf in the summer of 2020. This charm-
and prepared daily stages are signposted with
ing place knows a lot about bike events. The
small directional signs in the morning and are
‘Dolomiti Superbike’ race, with 623 starters at
run by trained MTB guides, who also collect the
its premiere in 1995, had long since become a
signs after the last participant has passed, so
mega event in which the number of participants
that the participants can fully engage in the fun
had to be limited to 4,500 starters. Time counts
of biking and the shared experience—this also
in the Dolomiti Superbike race—the fastest
includes amenities such as luggage transfer, a
mountain bikers can complete the 113 kilometres
bike service with a workshop trolley or invit-
with an impressive 3,357-metre difference in
ing alpine huts where bikers can regain their
altitude in around four and a half hours—while
strength.
the TransTirol BikeRallye focuses on pleasure. 17
©H. Wisthaler
However, there are also events where sporting fun has a social background. Around 300 participants will take part in ‘Dolomiti X Duchenne’ in Villabassa for the third time. You will be taken into the fascinating world of the Dolomites over three days during which the selected mountain bike trails are quite demanding. But time is irrelevant, because the event organized by Roberto Zoffoli in cooperation with the Villabassa Tourism Association is intended as a relaxing holiday for the families of children affected by the insidious Duchenne disease—so
AND SO THERE ARE MANY ANSWERS TO THE QUESTION OF WHY BIKERS COME TO T H E H O C H P U S T E R TA L V A L L E Y . BUT THERE IS ONE C O M M O N D E N O M I N AT O R : THE POSSIBILITIES AND THE LANDSCAPE AROUND THE THREE PEAKS OFFER A UNIQUE SETTING FOR MAKING BIKE TOURS A N U N F O R G E T TA B L E E X P E R I E N C E .
sharing this experience is all that counts. The event is also a small thank you to the volunteers and sponsors who put in a lot of effort and financial donations to support the Duchenne Parent Project every year.
18
Stefan Herbke (Author)
» T R A N S T I R O L B I K E R A L LY E
» DOLOMITI FOR DUCHENNE
The operator FunActive Tours will travel twice
Collectively mountain bikers ride on a 3-day
from Villabassa through the Dolomites in the
mountain bike trip to the Dolomites, whilst
summer of 2020:
side events in Villabassa and the surrounding area are organised daily for the accompanying
at the end of June (from 28 of June to 4 July
persons and the young people affected by the
2020) the route leads via Cortina d'Ampezzo
disease. Joint dinners are served in the gym.
and Levico Terme to the Lago di Caldonazzo
Date: 17 th to 21 st June 2020.
th
th
lake and in September (from 13 to 19 of Septh
th
tember 2020) the destination is the Kalterer See lake. In addition to the guided tours, the price includes the overnight stays, a starter package, luggage transfers, return transport to Villabassa and detailed tour information. Registration at www.transtirol-bikerallye.com
©T.A. Villabassa/Niederdorf
Due to the current situation resulting from the Corona crisis, event dates have not yet been confirmed at the time of going to press. Changes are therefore reserved and possibly also postponements to the coming year 2021. For more information please go to the corresponding websites or contact the Villabassa/Niederdorf tourist office.
©H. Wisthaler
19
Forging a success story out of a Fistful of Bikes in the holiday region 3 Zinnen in the Dolomites In conversation with Karl Fritz Schmidhofer Karl Fritz Schmidhofer, the head of Papin Sport, is considered a pioneer in cycle tourism. When he opened his sports retailer in the centre of San Candido/Innichen in 1979, even the resourceful locals of the Hochpustertal valley had no idea to which extent the ‘bike’ business model—originally carved out of necessity— would actually go through the roof one day. Cycling is undoubtedly THE trend, and now Papin Sport is also THE European market leader in the field of bicycle services. Among other things, the company from the holiday region 3 Zinnen in the Dolomites now has around 15,000 bikes in its range and Papin Sport also runs countless rental and service points along a wide variety of cycling paths, even beyond national borders. From a ©Papin Sport
©Papin Sport
small idea to a real bike empire ...
Selling, repairing and lending bicycles—did you suspect back then that you would be so successful? Of course, I somehow believed in the potential of the bike business, but basically it was just about giving my employees a permanent job. At that time, I already had a ski rental and therefore also needed employment for my people during the summer months. Consequently, bicycles were the obvious choice. So we started selling and repairing bikes. And we also launched the rental business, with a proud seven bikes back then ...
20
So was the bike rental not necessarily a successful model in the beginning?
Keyword E-Bike: how much has cycling changed as a result?
The rental business has gradually developed
E-bikes are a strong trend that is only in its
into what it is today. We started out very small
infancy and will surely increase in the next few
and then simply grew continuously over the
years. The main advantage of e-bikes is that
years, following the upswing in the trendy
older people can now ride their bikes without
sport of cycling. Every year, another stretch of
fear and strain. All the studies also prove that
a bike path was added and therefore, of course,
e-bike riding is better for the body than ex-
a few bikes. We did not do traditional adver-
treme MTB tours.
tising as such, but word-of-mouth advertising helped us; and, above all, the fact that we have always placed great emphasis on our services. A well-functioning, professional service for our customers is still the be-all and end-all in our family business.
Can you sit back and relax now that you have achieved everything in the bike services area, or do you still have more plans up your sleeve?
The whole country is cycling today. However, is it true that only a few years ago bike paths were still wishful thinking?
Our company is very well positioned, we have a
That's true. The bike paths were by no means all
represented with our bike rental in almost all
built at once, but have been expanded bit by bit,
the train stations in South Tyrol, from Malles/
and even today, not all of the routes have been
Mals in the Vinschgau valley to here in San Can-
signed and sealed. I can confidently say that
dido we cover almost everything. And our hotel
our success in this sector was certainly also
bike division is still on an expansion course. We
decisive for the expansion of the bike routes in
are currently active in Seefeld, Upper Bavaria
the Pustertal valley. Nowadays, around 120,000
and also in Northern Italy.
total of around 15,000 bikes distributed across Austria, Northern Italy and Upper Bavaria, of which around 5,000 are e-bikes. This year we are
cyclists a season enjoy the route between San Candido and the Austrian town of Lienz, such
But to rest on our laurels would be disastrous
numbers have never been reached before on a
for our company, as it would be doomed to fail.
bike route across Europe.
We always want to stay on the ball and are always interested in new projects. For example, we are currently planning to organise a project
In the meantime, we are experiencing a real cycling boom. What has encouraged this in your opinion?
in Lower Austria which will be similar to the one
The growing popularity of more exercise, the
ments in this area.
established in Carinthia. We will also continue to expand in Bavaria. And since e-bikes are on the rise, we will, of course, make further invest-
realisation that one should keep fit and that sport or physical activity is beneficial for all
Judith Steinmair (Author)
ages have certainly contributed to the fact that cycling has become more and more popular. 21
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©T.A. Braies/Prags
“
In the green meadows of the
Hirschbrunnen rest spa guests enjoying the shade
under a pine canopy
surrounded by white hawthorn
while up there, on the balustrade
with its colourful carnations, a repeat guest of Bagni di Braies Vecchia blows a horn.” Translation of the ballad written by Hermann von Gilm
Healing water in the forest People suffering from ailments hoped that the healing mineral springs
in the Pragser valley would alleviate their suffering. Others, who were looking for tranquillity, enjoyed recuperative wellness holidays in
the idyllic thermal spas. Find out more about the rise and decline of
Bad Altprags/Bagni di Braies Vecchia and Bad Neuprags/Bagni di Braies Nuova. Since ancient times, people have attributed
simple bath houses and pilgrimage church-
healing properties to water. Folk medicine, in
es were built in addition to the use of healing
particular, used the healing powers of water:
sources. It did not take long before the first
whether it was stomach problems, joint aches
summer holidaymakers arrived to alleviate their
or skin irritations, the local population visited
pain or to simply relax in the picturesque forest
some of the water sources to combat physical
swimming pools in the midst of nature—today
ailments. Back in the 16 th century, this resulted
we would most likely call this a wellness holiday.
in the foundation of the first ‘Bauernbadln’, or
In the Pustertal valley alone, 30 health baths
farmers baths, in the area of Tyrol and thermal
were created, including Bagni di Braies Vecchia
baths in more remote areas. At the beginning,
and Bagni di Braies Nuova in the Pragser valley. 23
©T.A. Braies/Prags
©T.A. Braies/Prags
The legend and the rise of Bagni di Braies Vecchia There are legends surrounding many of the
there were an average of 1,500 visitors per
healing springs, which explain or confirm the
year, including celebrities such as the Archduke
miraculous healing powers of the water. The
Heinrich Anton of Austria. During the summer
same holds true for the main spring in Bagni
months, the town was even equipped with its
di Braies Vecchia: the hunters shot a deer three
own postal service and telegraph office.
times, but the animal survived each of these shots. On the fourth occasion, the hunters they killed it. This is when they saw the three
The ‘Cold Gastein’
previous bullet wounds, which had been healed
In addition to the legendary ‘Hirschenbrunnen’,
by the water. Therefore, the spring is called
Bagni di Braies Vecchia featured the springs
‘Hirschenbrunnen’ or deer’s fountain.
‘Augenquelle’ (Eye Spring) and ‘Trinkwasser-
spotted the deer bathing in the spring and
quelle’ (Drinking Water Spring). The water temAround the year 1490, a skilled lumberjack
perature reached 8–9°C, which awarded Bagni
asked the Count of Görz, also known as Count of
di Braies Vecchia the nickname ‘Cold Gastein’
Gorizia, for permission to erect the first bathing
or ‘Tyrolean Gastein’ referring to the Austrian
house at the Hirschenbrunnen in order to cater
health resort of Bad Gastein. The baths and
for the sick. His request was granted. Paula von
cures were supposed to alleviate many ail-
Gonzaga, the second wife of Count Leonard of
ments, from rheumatic pains to gynaecological
Gorizia, assisted with the rise of what was then
problems. Obviously with success: numerous
a simple spa. After her visit to Bagni di Braies
votive tablets hang in the chapel in Bagni di
Vecchia she was healed from her severe body
Braies Vecchia, as thanks for healing, and be-
aches. As a sign of her gratitude, she donated
hind a grate there are crutches which were left
the funds for the foundation of the little church
behind by people who healed miraculously.
of St. Magdalena in Moso/Moos near Villabassa/ Niederdorf. Of course, word about the fact that
Towards the end of the 19 th century, howev-
she healed spread quickly, even beyond the
er, Bagni di Braies Vecchia gradually lost its
borders. The scenic location of Bagni di Braies
significance. Rumour has it that due to the
Vecchia with its magnificent view of the moun-
quick changes in ownership, the guests’ expec-
tainscape added to the charm. Many ailing peo-
tations could no longer be met. Newer struc-
ple arrived in the forest spa with the hope of re-
tures such as the bath in Bagni di Braies Nuova
covery in their luggage. What started as a simple
and the hotel Pragser Wildsee took over from
bathing house, was expanded step by step into
the 400-year-old spa: In the year 1950, the bath
a hotel. During its heyday in the 19 th century,
in Bagni di Braies Vecchia finally closed doors
Bagni di Braies Vecchia offered 200 guest beds.
entirely, and since then, the building has been
During peak season, from May to mid-October,
in constant decay.
24
©T.A. Braies/Prags
©T.A. Braies/Prags
The rise of the thermal spa of Bagni di Braies Nuova Bagni di Braies Nuova, situated in the right
suffered from gall, typhus or intermittent fevers
branch of the Pragser valley, became the new
to recover,” explained Dr. Johann Jakob Staffler
hotspot. Approximately 400 guests, mostly from
in the year 1844.
the noble society, spent their summers here enjoying the thermal baths and cures, some-
Bagni di Braies Nuova, however, shared the
times over a period of several weeks. For the
same fate with many other healing spa towns in
so-called spa societies, cures with healing water
the Alps: after their heyday in the 19 th century,
were not always paramount. Apparently, Bagni
their importance decreased and the Great War
di Braies Nuova offered excellent cuisine and,
brought about the final collapse for Bagni di
occasionally, it was relatively entertaining—an
Braies Nuova. The owners had to hand over the
element that is known to increase the over-
thermal baths to the new fascist potentates in
all well-being. With growing visitor numbers,
the country. After the war, the catholic church
the acclaimed thermal spa was expanded:
took charge of the spa for a few years, using it
additional buildings with new rooms (some with
as a summer residence. Today the buildings are
a stove and balcony), changing rooms, a tennis
empty.
court and a bowling alley were built. Doris Brunner (Author) The healing springs of Bagni di Braies Nuova arise at the foot of the mountain on the opposite side. It is not known, when its effect was first discovered. The first written entry dates back to the year 1690. From 1830, the ‘Theresia’ and ‘Jenny’ sources were named ‘Erlachbad’,
©T.A. Braies/Prags
later the name changed to ‘Möselbad’ and Bagni di Braies Nuova. In these thermal spas, the water is also supposed to have allegedly alleviated or even healed many minor and major ailments. The farmers went to the springs if they suffered from eye disorders and the spa guests were recommended to do thermal water cures for various ailments: “The healing power of this stimulating, strengthening and also softening and dissolving water shows its effect in cases of paralyses, muscle weakness, a tendency to suffer from rheumatic, gouty and podagrarelated ailments, different types of skin rashes, menstrual issues or to help convalescents who 25
The beeyard ain’t no place for a woman …
©F. Oberhammer
but at the Three Peaks this is not the case! “The beeyard ain’t no place for a woman” the
rational beehives that are still used today,
Canadian professional magazine Ontario Bee
while Marie Aimée Lulline and Miss Jurine are
Journal wrote in March 2016. In the 80s, this
merited with having developed the knowledge
statement was directed at the author of the
of the production of valuable beeswax.
article, Kelly Rogers, who provocatively placed the focus on it to talk about her own experience
Another fundamental advance was made in
as a beekeeper and as a woman.
the late 19 th century by the Scottish beekeeper Miss Clementine Stirling Graham. She was the
Famous beekeepers have always been in abun-
first to promote the extraction of honey with-
dance: Aristotle, George Washington and Leo
out simultaneously destroying the honeycombs.
Tolstoy, author of War and Peace; however,
A truly important discovery!
there seems to be no trace of female beekeepers. And yet, a number of women have stood out
This immediately raises the question:
in this sector, including the author Sylvia Plath,
Is beekeeping reserved for men only?
Maria von Trapp, the real Maria, who served as the source of inspiration for the world-famous
“Not at all,” replies Peter Senfter from San
movie The Sound of Music, Susanna Tamaro,
Candido/Innichen, who has been the chairman
the famous author of Và dove ti porta il cuo-
of the South Tyrolean Beekeepers Association
re (Follow your Heart) and Eva Crane, a British
of the Alta Pusteria/Oberpustertal valley region
physicist, biologist and author, who introduced
for 18 years and has been dedicating himself to
revolutionary apicultural changes.
his 30 beehives since 1960. He confirms that, in the meantime, there are even numerous woman
They are all women, or rather beekeepers and
beekeepers in the beekeepers’ association.
women, but somehow this still seems to be a Frida Oberhammer from Santa Maria/Aufkirchen
rare phenomenon.
negates this question even more categorically, century, the Swiss
she is after all living proof of it. Beekeeping may
scientist and aristocrat Catherine Elisabeth
be primarily a male domain, but she has made
Vicat was both a veritable institution in this
great and considerable contributions in this
field and a strong advocate for the use of
field.
In the middle of the 18
26
th
Frida started working as a beekeeper approximately twenty years
©F. Oberhammer
ago, however she had been involved with bees even prior to this. As a child she first helped her grandfather and later her mother with the bees. In short, her love of beekeeping was born to her. Today, Frida is the chairwomen for Dobbiaco/Toblach and deputy chairwoman for the district of the Alta Pusteria/Oberpustertal valley. She has a lot of experience, and her passion has anything but decreased over time. Together with her husband Hubert she keeps approximately
She answered our—relatively provocative—
27 bee colonies in three different locations—Santa Maria and
question about whether, according to her, a
Carbonin/Schluderbach as well as on the Silvesteralm meadow
beekeeper or a beekeeperess does the better
in the summer. It is remarkable that she calls them “families” in
job, with the same sensitivity that she showed
conversation. Each bee colony consists of approx. 20,000 bees in
throughout our conversation. “Beekeeping is a
the winter and up to 60,000 in the summer.
hobby, which is both fun and pure enjoyment. It makes no difference if the beekeeper is a man
She talks about their beehives with enthusiasm and dedication.
or a woman, as long as he or she is passionate
Each bee family delivers an average of 15 kg of honey, whereby
and dedicated. However, I don’t think that men
the yield also depends, above all, on the climatic conditions in
are better or worse than women, although, in
the high mountains, on the air temperature, the flowering period
general, women are more suited to a lifestyle
and the natural conditions.
close to nature. A hobby should entail both passion and joy. Women may be characterised
In the past, there was only one type of honey, referred to
by a higher degree of passion than many men.”
nowadays as blossom honey. In the 1920s, the term ‘variety honey’ began to spread und currently more than 300 types of
“Each bee has the mechanism of the universe
honey are classified. The individual variety honey always gets its
within it: each one contains the secret of the
name from the flowering plant, which is exploited by the bees.
world,” as the French philosopher Michel Onfray wrote. It is therefore unimportant
In the Dolomites, honey is still considered to be a precious
whether the secret is guarded by a woman or
product and is therefore marked with a protected designation
a man.
of origin (u.G.) on a label with the Three Peaks mountain range. Frida harvests primarily dandelion, honeydew, forest and alpine
Martina Merola (Author)
meadow honey. There is also alpine rose honey, which is rarely offered as a pure variety honey, but mostly as an alpine blossom
©O. Seehauser
honey. Honey—also known as the nectar of gods—is still a basic ingredient in cooking and baking, however Mrs. Oberhammer also uses it in an innovative und rather unexpected way, namely for massages. This tradition from Russia or—presumably from Tibet— is based on the cleansing properties of honey, be it when it is consumed or when it is absorbed into the skin. It is, in every respect, a very versatile, high-quality product.
27
©Dolomythos Museum
©Dolomythos Museum
©Dolomythos Museum
IMPRESSIVE SPECIAL EXHIBITION AT DOLOMYTHOS, SAN CANDIDO/INNICHEN, THE LARGEST DOLOMITE MUSEUM COVERING THE LEGENDARY WORLD OF THE DOLOMITES
Forest stories and herbal tales After all, the population of the Dolomites has
ries. Men can only destroy this symbiosis with
what is probably the best-known saga collec-
violence. When women then unite with men
tion: its preservation forms the core of the
it almost always ends in tragedy. In this case,
Dolomite folk tales, which Karl Felix Wolff
women only have to retreat back to nature, as
collected and published for the first time in
part of which they were created and where they
1905 ("The Pale Mountains"). A key theme in
are happy again. Nature provides security again
the folk tales is the matriarchy. Above all, it is
as soon as the female legendary figures return
women who make decisions and influence the
to it.
course of events. It is Dolasilla the strong and infallible warrior. Moltina, Tanna, Samblana,
And yet some of the Dolomite folk tales about
Soreghina and Lujanta—everywhere, women
herbs and plants are still fascinating today.
play the protagonist in various distinct sto-
28
The wedding of Merisàna or the larch queen
Moltina, the queen of marmots
Queen Merisàna had everything her heart could
Moltina grew up with the marmots on the Plätzwiese high
wish for; and yet she was troubled by how many
plateau and even learned to take their shape. One day she fell
living things were unhappy or suffered from
in love with the Prince of the Landrins and followed him to his
pain. One day the "Réy de Ràyes", the King of
castle. When asked about her origin, Moltina was embarrassed.
Rays, met the graceful maiden and immediately
At that moment the Rotwand mountain lit up. Meanwhile Moltina
fell in love with her. She however had one
turned into a marmot unnoticed. However, the prince searched
condition: “Before I get married, all living things
for it, discovered it and stayed with her.
must be happy. Nobody should suffer any more, not a single tree may be felled and no animal killed.” The King of Rays became very concerned and asked the wise councillors whether this was
The rose garden
possible. They said no. Merisàna gave in and
In ancient times, the dwarf king Laurin ruled in the Dolomites.
asked that all living things should at least be
He had immense treasures, but the largest of them was a stealth
happy on the day of the wedding. Even this con-
cap that made him invisible. Laurin's pride was a beautiful rose
dition turned out to be unattainable. This made
garden encircled by a golden silk thread. One day Laurin met
Merisàna sad: “Not even a single day!” She
the beautiful Princess Simhild. He fell in love and captured her
sighed. “I thought that this was the minimum
with the help of his stealth cap. But Simhild remained sad. One
we could do.” Finally, she agreed that at least
day the Gothic King Theodoric, also known as Dietrich von Bern,
at the hour of their wedding everyone would be
and his knights ended up in this area. They were amazed at the
happy: the people and animals, the trees and
splendour of the gold-thread-enclosed roses, but his compan-
flowers. The King of Rays hoped to meet this
ions tore the thread and trampled the roses. Laurin stormed out
condition, and in fact all living beings were told
angrily. There was a one-sided fight. At first Laurin could pro-
to remove any pain and discomfort at midday on
tect himself with his stealth cap, but it was snatched from him
the wedding day. Everyone praised the girl for
and soon he was lying helpless on the floor and begging for his
her kindness, and in gratitude they brought the
life. Princess Simhild has now been released. But with a spell
most beautiful bouquets and bundles that could
cast by the fettered king the rose garden was destroyed forever:
be imagined. Merisàna decided to do something
neither the bright day nor the dark night should ever see the
useful with it and said that a new tree should be
roses’ splendour again. Only bare, pale rocks should remain in
made from it. This is how the larch was created.
their place. But Laurin had forgotten to include twilight between
However, since it was not yet viable in this
day and night in his spell. And so it happens that at sunset the
form, it wrapped Merisàna with its bridal veil
pale mountains of the Dolomites shine and glow in the most
made of fine, light green fabric. The tree imme-
beautiful shades of red.
diately began to sprout. Everyone was amazed at the properties of the tree. In fact, the larch
Michael Wachtler (Author)
is the strangest of all trees. At first it appears as a conifer, but the needles turn yellow in autumn and fall off like the leaves of the deciduous trees. But when the larch wakes up again in spring, it looks like a delicate green muslin, and the tips of the branches clearly show the fabric of the bridal veil.
DOLOMYTHOS
PEDESTRIAN ZONE SAN CANDIDO/INNICHEN Opening hours: Open every day from 8 a.m. to 7 p.m. without a day off
INFO@DOLOMYTHOS.COM WWW.DOLOMYTHOS.COM
29
Âť Where the music plays Beethoven, Mahler and a large new orchestra: the Cultural Centre in Dobbiaco/Toblach will continue to be the Val Pusteria/Pustertal valley rendezvous for music lovers in the future
ŠM. Verdoes
30
©M. Verdoes
“ It's
wonderful here.” Gustav Mahler was inspired by the landscape
On that occasion, music lovers in Dobbiaco
and the people during his summer retreat in
will also experience the first performance of
Dobbiaco. In his composing hut in Carbonin
the newly founded Grandhôtel Orchestra of
Vecchia/Altschluderbach
he
Dobbiaco. The orchestra, conducted by Philipp
wrote the ‘Ninth Symphony’, the unfinished
von Steinaecker, is supported by the ‘Euregio
‘Tenth Symphony’ and ‘The Song of the Earth’.
Cultural Center Gustav Mahler Dobbiaco Dolo-
Dobbiaco was a special place for the Bohemian
mites’ foundation. In addition, the foundation
composer—a fact which is greatly appreciat-
is building a unique collection of instruments
ed in Dobbiaco: Every year, the Gustav Mahl-
for this project, which brings together musi-
er Music Weeks take place in memory of the
cians from a wide variety of orchestras from
late romantic. It would have been a special
around the world. This is the first time that the
anniversary this year: 40 years of celebrating
historical instruments of the Vienna Court
Gustav Mahler in Dobbiaco! The master class
Opera Orchestra used during Mahler’s direction
with Thomas Hampson and his recital would
have been reunited in one place. This Septem-
have been the highlight. But in these times of
ber, the newly founded Grandhôtel Orchestra
the corona pandemic, nothing is the way it used
should have played Gustav Mahler's Ninth Sym-
to be, not even in the world of music (for the
phony as part of the original Mahler Revisited
time being)... This also affects the Festspiele
sound festival, for the first time since the first
Südtirol (South Tyrol Festival) in the Dobbiaco
performance in 1912 on original instruments.
Cultural Centre. They were both planned for
Now this will happen a year later. This much
August in honour of Ludwig van Beethoven.
is certain, the musicians will have immersed
near
Dobbiaco
themselves into the world of Gustav Mahler The composer was born 250 years ago in Bonn.
much more by then.
His music is considered the highest development of Viennese classical music and oozes
©M. Verdoes
strength and originality, which the organisers also wanted to convey to the festival visitors. Now, the Romanian youth orchestra under Cristian Mandeal and a huge contingent of the ‘Studienstiftung des Deutschen Volkes’ (German Academic Scholarship Foundation) under Martin Wettges will probably only show their skills in Dobbiaco next year. One thing will not change: the festival has been dedicated to the youth for years and this will continue in 2021. 31
In a short interview, the conductor Philipp von Steinaecker explains what the Grandhôtel Orchestra is all about: ©A. Taake
You have been involved in the Grandhôtel Orchestra project from the beginning. How are the musicians selected? The core contingency of the musicians are South Tyroleans, after all the orchestra is located here. There are such wonderful South Tyrolean musicians who are successful abroad and whom we absolutely want to give a platform to in order for them to make music together in South Tyrol. Then there are musicians from the Mahler cities of Vienna, Budapest, Prague, Amsterdam, Hamburg, Ljubljana, New York and also finally, fantastic students. We regularly exchange views with a group of musicians from the orchestra and with advisors, such as the conductor Daniel Harding, about who is eligible for which position. From our shared networks of musicians around the world, we then choose the ones that we admire the most and that we can imagine would be a good match. So we look at which
You played in the Gustav Mahler
great musicians are available and then whether
Youth Orchestra as a teenager.
they, let's say, are inclined to play on the old
Is this where your enthusiasm for
instruments. Because, that's not everyone’s cup
the composer and conductor comes from?
of tea.
At the age of 17, I was allowed to play Mahler’s Fifth Symphony under Claudio Abbado and had the feeling back then that these were the first really important concerts that I could take part in. That was my initiation as a musician, but also as a Mahlerian. That is why Gustav Mahler has always had a special meaning for me. And then I feel like many others who have discovered his music for themselves: you have the feeling that he wrote this music just for you, that’s how closely it touches you. Sometimes you want to watch over it jealously, but experiencing and sharing it together is always the deepest experience.
32
This is the next special feature of
©M. Verdoes
this orchestra: it will play on original Viennese instruments from the 1900’s It's really great and incredibly exciting! This orchestra creates something unique and, we also hope, makes an important contribution to the worldwide Mahler reception. The idea behind it is that when Mahler was sitting and composing in his composing hut in Dobbiaco, he would naturally have had the orchestral sound that he
©M. Verdoes
knew from Vienna, and was used to, in his ear. In those days, the Vienna Philharmonic orchestra played on different instruments and with a different technique than we do today. That means that his sound concept was naturally different from ours today. We want to reconstruct this sound of the Mahler period in Dobbiaco. In the end, we will play his Ninth Symphony again, for the first time since then, on the instruments for which he wrote it. We started a
©M. Verdoes
collection in Dobbiaco and put together the instruments that the Vienna Philharmonic used at the time. The first instruments are slowly coming back from being restored and have been given to the musicians. There are simply wonderful pieces. The old Viennese horns sound sensational. Then we found a pair of timpani that was used in the Viennese opera by Mahler. A beautiful harp, an old bass clarinet, wonderfully preserved wooden flutes by Louis Lot and Karl Rittershausen, Heckel bassoons from 1902
At the time of the editorial
and 1903 and, of course, all the strings played
deadline, it was not yet known
on gut strings ... I could go on raving forever.
when the concert activity in the
For me, this feels like Christmas: I simply can't
Euregio Cultural Center could be
wait!
resumed. All current information can be found on their website: www.kulturzentrum-toblach.eu
Verena Duregger (Author)
33
ŠHistorical Archive Lake Braies/Pragser Wildsee
Disturbing Odyssey 139 prisoners from 17 nations were abducted by the SS from the Dachau concentration camp to Villabassa/Niederdorf shortly before the end of the war. These included various heads of state, well-known personalities and family members of resistance fighters. Here’s how the special and clan prisoners were freed under dramatic circumstances.
34
In the spring of 1945, immediately before the
prisoners, such as the former Austrian Chan-
end of World War II, so-called special and clan
cellor Kurt von Schuschnigg, the former French
prisoners from several Nazi concentration
Prime Minister LĂŠon Blum, the business mag-
camps were all taken to the concentration
nate Fritz Thyssen as well as family members
camp in Dachau. Amongst these prisoners
of Claus Schenk Graf von Stauffenberg and Carl
were officers of the Wehrmacht who had fallen
Friedrich Goerdeler, who had been arrested
from grace, resistance fighters and their fami-
after the assassination attempt on Hitler on the
lies, foreign military personnel and prominent
20 th July 1944.
To Villabassa as SS hostages
Liberation by the Wehrmacht
On the 26 th of April 1945, a special command
Wichard von Alvensleben, Captain of the Ger-
led by SS Obersturmführer Edgar Stiller and
man Wehrmacht, who was stationed in nearby
SS Untersturmführer Ernst Bader transported
Moso/Moos near Sesto/Sexten, learnt of the
the prisoners from Dachau to the Reichenau
hostage transport and that the assignment was
camp in Innsbruck. The prominent hostages
only completed “once the prisoners had died”.
were supposedly meant to be taken to the
Von Alvensleben immediately sent a group of
‘Alpine Fortress’, where they would be handed
stormtroopers consisting of 15 NCOs of the
over to the Chief of the Reich’s Main Security
Wehrmacht to Villabassa. Shortly afterwards,
Office, Ernst Kaltenbrunner, as a bargaining
a reinforcement of 150 grenadiers arrived and
chip for the negotiations with the Allied Forces.
surrounded the square in front of the town
The next day, the journey over the Brenner
hall. The highest-ranking SS leader in Italy, Karl
pass followed and on the morning of the 28 of
Wolff, decided that the SS guards had to pull out
April the convoy with the SS hostages arrived
and move to Bolzano/Bozen. The Wehrmacht
in Villabassa. But their original destination, the
took over the protection of the SS prisoners.
Hotel Pragser Wildsee, was occupied contrary
On the evening of April 30 th, they were accom-
to expectations. There was a big confusion. The
modated at the Pragser Wildsee Hotel, which
bus stopped outside of Villabassa for hours
had become available in the meantime. Under
and the prisoners feared the worst. In the end,
the management of the dauntless hotel own-
they could be accommodated in emergency
er, Emma Heiss-Hellensteiner, the essentials
quarters: in guesthouses, in the rectory and on
were organised. On the 4 th of May, two days
provisionally heaped-up straw in the municipal
after the official surrender of the Wehrmacht in
office. The population of Villabassa showed
Italy, the U.S. Army arrived at the Pragser Wild-
great courage and helpfully provided the pris-
see lake. They disarmed the Wehrmacht soldiers
oners with food and drink.
and took over the prisoners. All ‘unencumbered’
th
prisoners were transported to the Island of Capri, which some regarded as further internment. Only after a number of interrogations they were given permission to return home. Some special prisoners, however, remained in U.S. captivity.
>>
©Historical Archive Lake Braies/Pragser Wildsee ©Historical Archive Lake Braies/Pragser Wildsee
35
The SS soldiers involved in the hostage transport were not held accountable for their actions: the case against SS Obersturmführer Stiller was terminated, SS Untersturmführer Bader was able to go into hiding and their subordinates also remained unpunished. Some of the former SS hostages recorded their memories and partly published them in biographies, including Isa Vermehren, Kurt von Schuschnigg, Fabian von Schlabrendorff, Sigismund Payne Best, Bertram Arthur “Jimmy” James and Josef Müller.
©Historical Archive Lake Braies/Pragser Wildsee
Doris Brunner (Author)
©Historical Archive Lake Braies/Pragser Wildsee
From the Pragser Wildsee archive of contemporary history In 2005, the Dachau journalist and contemporary historian Hans-Günther Richardi and the hotel owner Caroline M. Heiss founded the Zeitgeschichtsarchiv Pragser Wildsee archive of contemporary history (ZaPW in the Pragser Wildsee hotel). It recorded, amongst other events, the memories of these occurrences. All available prisoner records, SS documents, witness statements, books, reports and essays about the hostage transport are collected here. In the book “SS hostages in the Alpine Fortress”, Hans-Günter Richardi documented the abduction of the SS hostages. The book also served as a basis for the TV documentary “We, the hostages of the SS.” (“Wir, Geiseln der SS.”). www.archivpragserwildsee.com
36
Fam. Ortner Via al Ponte dei Corrieri, 1 I - 39038 San Candido Tel. +39 0474 913 588 www.villastefania.com info@villastefania.com
37
Burning
mountains The Most Sacred Heart of Jesus fires blaze on the mountains every year in June. Here’s how this custom came about and what promises it is based on. It was in the year 1796. France, under the rule of
June 1796, this promise was fulfilled for the first
Napoleon I, was waging war against the Euro-
time in the holy mass in the Bolzano cathedral.
pean powers opposing his French Revolution. In
Before the second Battle of Bergisel in the year
Tyrol, they received the terrifying message that
1809, the Tyrolean troops, led by Andreas Hofer,
the Napoleonic troops were marching towards
renewed their Most Sacred Heart of Jesus vow,
them from Milan. The Tyrolean ‘Landesstände’
the ‘holy covenant’, and surprisingly defeated
(territorial estates) formed a council of war and
the French and the Bavarians, whereupon the
met in Bolzano/Bozen to discuss the next steps.
Most Sacred Heart of Jesus Sunday was elevat-
Good advice seemed in short supply. What to
ed to a high holiday. It was Pope Pius IX who
do in this desperate situation? The abbot of
introduced the Most Sacred Heart of Jesus
Stams, Sebastian von Stöckl, proposed to the
holiday as an official fixed date in the Catholic
council to seek divine assistance and to entrust
church calendar in 1856.
the country of Tyrol to the Most Sacred Heart of Jesus. The representatives of the territorial
However, the veneration of the Most Sacred
estates agreed and made a pledge to celebrate
Heart of Jesus as a symbol of the goodness and
the festival of the Most Sacred Heart of Jesus
philanthropy of God goes back further: Saint
every year. Only a few days later, on the 3 of
Peter Canisius, who worked in Tyrol for a long
rd
time, had a Sacred Heart vision in 1549 one day before his vows. Sainte Margareta Maria Alacoque had the same experience 100 years later in France. In 1705 the first Brothers of the Sacred Heart congregation was founded at the Ursulines order in Innsbruck. Shortly thereafter, the Jesuits started to promote the worship of ©G. Kamelger
38
the Heart of Jesus.
»
Song of the Most Sacred Heart of Jesus “To the oath, country of Tyrol, Raise heart and hand to heaven! What our ancestors once promised, whilst in the midst of a raging war, Is an oath we want to renew: Most Sacred Heart of Jesus, we promise you eternal allegiance!” Lyrics: Josef Seeber, 1896 Melody: Ignaz Mitterer, 1896
©Shutterstock
©Shutterstock
Blazing mountain fires The Sunday of the Most Sacred Heart of Jesus,
forming an atmospheric chain of lights along
the third Sunday after Whitsun, is still celebrated
the mountaintop. A very special sight!
throughout Tyrol as a high church holiday. Solemn services and processions take place
Young and old members of various associa-
in many parishes. The white and red Tyrolean
tions, such as riflemen, farmers’ youth or Alpine
flag is hoisted on church towers and private
clubs carry wood, brushwood, torches and oth-
homes and firecrackers bang loudly to com-
er flammable materials up the heights for the
memorate the holiday. In the evening, as soon
mountain fires. This way, the lighting of the
as the darkness falls over the country, the
Sacred Heart fires becomes a convivial festivity
Sacred Heart fires blaze on many mountain
amongst friends. In some places the Tyrolean
peaks, clearings and alpine meadows. They
national anthem ‘Zu Mantua in Banden’ (also
are intended to demonstrate Tyrol’s solidarity,
known as the Andreas-Hofer-Lied) is sung as
renew the pledge given in 1769 and commemo-
well as the song ‘Auf zum Schwur, Tiroler Land’
rate the country’s eventful history. In the Alta
(Song of the Most Sacred Heart of Jesus), which
Pusteria/Hochpustertal valley there are also
was composed by priest Josef Seeber for the
plenty of Sacred Heart fires shining down into
100th anniversary of the Most Sacred Heart of
the valley—not only as large bonfires, but also
Jesus celebrations.
in the form of a heart or cross with an inscription of Christ (‘INRI’ or ‘IHS’) or a Tyrolean eagle, on the Eggerberg of Villabassa/Niederdorf installed from the rifel-company Johann-Jaeger. On the ‘Flodigen Sattel’ mountain near Dobbiaco/Toblach, one fire is lined up with the other,
©G. Kamelger
39
Origins of the mountain fires
Illuminated Dobbiaco Vecchia/Alttoblach
The mountain fires themselves have a long
In Dobbiaco Vecchia, the historic heart of the
tradition. They are derived from the custom of
village surrounding the parish church, the
lighting a fire as a symbol for the sun at the
residents also have another custom: on the
summer solstices around the 20 of June, thus
eve of the Most Sacred Heart of Jesus Sunday,
honouring the longest day of the year. In the
they light up the windows of the buildings with
course of Christianisation, the midsummer fires
beautiful
changed to the Saint John's Fires. These were
religious motives and place candles on the win-
lit in honour of the feast of Saint John the Bap-
dowsills. In combination with the glistening
June. In
fires on the mountains, this is a truly atmos-
th
tist, which is celebrated on the 24
th
the past, however, the glowing fires in clearly
window
pictures
that
represent
pheric experience.
visible places had an entirely different function. In the mountain regions, they were one of the
Doris Brunner (Author)
few ways of communicating with faraway compatriots. For example, the ‘Kreidfeuer’, literally translated ‘screaming fires’, heralded the threat of war for centuries or were the visible sign of the attack. As such the attack of the Tyrolean
©T.A. Dobbiaco/Toblach
militia was also initiated by a signal fire on the mountain summits.
©Shutterstock
©T.A. Dobbiaco/Toblach
©T.A. Dobbiaco/Toblach
40
©M. Kottersteger
Hiking in autumn In the holiday region 3 Zinnen in the Dolomites hiking enthusiasts can enjoy a varied hiking program in autumn, which also includes a trial course as a hut host. Here is a selection of other interesting topics that are offered weekly: Every Tuesday:
Climbing tour >Dolomiti senza confini<
A breathtaking tour in the middle of the Dolomites, that makes every climber's heart beat faster! Every Wednesday:
A history of frontiers
War zone in the region 3 Zinnen in the Dolomites—a hike with memorable historical background Every Thursday:
You as a landlord
The guests in the role of Hebs, the landlord—a quaint experience at the Rossalm alpine hut in the Braies Valley! Every Thursday:
In the footsteps of smugglers
Along the legendary footsteps of smugglers on the border trail between Austria and Italy Every Friday:
Three Peaks sunrise
The Dolomite landmark in early sunshine—a unique autumnal colour spectacle! Those interested can find further information on the following homepage: www.dreizinnen.com/autumn 41
Get social! #3zinnendolomites #discover3zinnen ©M. Kottersteger
©M. Kottersteger
©M. Kottersteger
©M. Kottersteger
©M. Kottersteger
42
ŠM. Kottersteger
ŠM. Kottersteger
ŠM. Kottersteger
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… Pure emotion Romantik Hotel & Restaurant
Alemagnastraße 4 | I-39034 Toblach Südtirol | Italien T +39 0474 972 142 info@hotel-santer.com | www.hotel-santer.com
Trachten Stüberl
Ihr Trachten- & Lodenfachgeschäft im Pustertal St.-Johannes-Str. 69 :: I-39034 TO B L A C H Tel. +39 0474 972 350