Almanach winter 2018 by Tourist Info Innichen San Candido

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Almanac Three Peaks Dolomites

Available free of charge at tourism associations and member companies

24th Nov – 6th Jan 2018 UNDER THE BANNER OF TRADITION AND GENUINENESS

„

I don’t know anything more idyllic, THIS is the cosiest and most beautiful Christmas market indeed. The village itself and the surrounding landscapes are absolutely enchanting. People have put their heart and soul into it. Find out for yourself!

“

arket m s a m Christ 24th Nov – 26th Nov 2017 1nd Dec – 3th Dec 2017 6th Dec – 10th Dec 2017 15th Dec – 6th Jan 2018 24th Dec 2017 25th Dec 2017

The biggest

EASTER EGG hunting of the Dolomites

10.30 am – 7 pm 10.30 am – 7 pm 10.30 am – 7 pm 10.30 am – 7 pm 10.30 am – 3 pm closed

17th March – 2th April 2018 GREAT PRIZES FOR YOU! Big times for the Easter bunny while hiding loads of eggs in San Candido-Innichen! Red, yellow, big, and small Easter eggs can be found – everywhere in the shop windows of all the shops and stores! Those who manage to find them all will certainly be rewarded: wellness week-ends, prizes, and shopping vouchers are waiting for you!

www.sancandido.info

brandnamic.com | Foto: Ideenhaus

TIME TO ENJOY Winter- and spa bliss in Europe’s Leading Green Hotel Downhill- and cross-country skiing, tobogganing and snowshoeing… a winter break at Hotel Leitlhof – Dolomiten in San Candido promises countless adventures in the great outdoors. Explore the majestic nature in front of the unpar-

Dear Guests,

alleled backdrop of the Sesto Dolomites. After-

It is my pleasure to welcome you in the area of the Three Peaks/3 Zinnen in the Dolomites. In our last Almanac summer edition, we envisaged the end of our popular guest magazine, dear Readers, due to some changes following the actual reorganisation of tourist structures in our Province, including most probably the communication with our guests, too. Details to these reforms will be known in the near future. Our renewal process deals, in any case, with administrative steps, while the core of our holiday area Three Peaks Dolomites remains notorious and well established as usual, welcoming you any time with open arms!

wards, unwind in the spring-water brine pool, in the sauna and relax room – the Dolomites always in sight. And make sure to indulge in the luxuriously soothing beauty treatments. In the evening, a delicious gourmet dinner with matching wines will round off your holiday experience. Experience nature at its purest.

Our guiding principle “hospitality” is our main priority. We would like you to make yourself at home in the Dolomites UNESCO World Heritage, in perhaps one of most beautiful places around the globe. We therefore put our heart and soul into our gastronomy and accommodation businesses, the maintenance and improvement of our infrastructures, and the designing of a wide range of leisure facilities and sports activities. For all our efforts, we have received plenty of approving and openhearted statements over the years. We very much appreciate these encouragements and are certainly pleased, finding new motivation to face every-day challenges. Recently, we have also received great feedback from our guests regarding our guest magazine, which has encouraged us to continue with the Almanac editions. The present edition shall hence be, as usual, a loyal companion for your winter holidays. Together with our authors, our editorial team has gathered fascinating highlights around our multifaceted event programme as well as appealing topics just for you. In this light, we welcome you open-heartedly once again in the land of the Three Peaks! Enjoy your hopefully unforgettable stay in the middle of our enchanted winter scenery! May the current Almanac edition grant you some amusing and enjoyable hours!

Dieter Wurmböck President of the Tourist Board

In the name of the Tourist Board Yours sincerely Dieter Wurmböck – President

Hotel Leitlhof | Family Mühlmann | Via Val Pusteria 29 I-39038 San Candido (BZ) | T +39 0474 913440 | info@leitlhof.com

www.leitlhof.com

4 leitlhof_inserat_winteralmanach_191x281mm_ok.indd 1

06.10.17 11:54

In this edition

Winter 2017/18

Three summits, plenty of records

Coffee and fine arts

Facts & numbers

The most famous and

Kunstraum Café Mitterhofer –

a familiar atmosphere

most remarkable summits in

a wonderful symbiosis

and rich in tradition

the Dolomites

of fine arts

�� 48–49

�� 8–11

and coffee culture

About five villages with

�� 26–29

Three Peaks nature park

�� 50–51

Dolomites UNESCO

Take a stock

World Heritage

Setting the rhythm

�� 12–13

of life and work

Romantic

by high and low season

Romantic Christmas Holidays around the Three Peaks Dolomites

Hello Kids

�� 30–32

Pre-Christmas season

Beautiful summits in the snow

without stress and rush.

Enchanting peaks

�� 14–19

and spectacles of nature

CHRISTMAS HOLIDAYS AROUND THE THREE PEAKS DOLOMITES

�� 34–37

The Holiday Pass Enjoying active & stress-free

Some tips for your best tours

mobility in the area of the

Plenty of possibilities

Three Peaks Dolomites

to choose from

�� 20

�� 38–39

Ambassadors of the Region! Or why regional groceries

Where everyone is a winner

might change our

The Olympic idea is

attitude towards food

the one that counts

�� 22–25

�� 40–46

14–19

26–29

CREDITS Our partners:

Editor: Drei Zinnen Marketing Editor in charge: Michael Wachtler Grafics und Layout: Werbeagentur Rotwild (Brixen) – www.rotwild.it Editorial office & coordination: Drei Zinnen Marketing Translations: Kerstin Pramstaller Cover: Manuel Kottersteger Photo: Tourist office Sesto/Sexten, Harald Wisthaler, H. Oberhofer, Photo Grüner Thomas, P. P. Mariotti, C. Tschurtschenthaler, P. Janach, M. Kottersteger, Alex Filz, Armin Huber, Helene Markhart, Chris Oberhammer, Markus Rainer, Thomas Walch, Tourist office Dobbiaco, James Rushforth, U. Bernhart, Fam. Sengebusch, Tourist office Valle di Braies, Cafe Mitterhofer, J. Strobl, IDM Alto Adige_Stefano Scatà, Rotwild Printing: Südtirol Druck S.n.c. – www.suedtiroldruck.com All information is subject to change

OUR HOUSE. YOUR HOTEL. Sporthotel Tyrol **** | Via Drava 12 San Candido | Tel. +39 0474 913 198 | info@sporthoteltyrol.it | www.sporthoteltyrol.it

One, two, ...

three summits, plenty of records

The most famous and most remarkable summits in the Dolomites â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the Three Peaks â&#x20AC;&#x201C; have been enchanting people for generations, leading to exceptional results and spectacular record performances. 8

The iciest one: In the area of the Three Peaks, there are also record-breaking performances down in the valleys, including the one of hotel owner Josef Strobl from Dobbiaco/Toblach. Over 35 years he was working on the biggest iceberg in the world, until 1999, when its height measured 35 m (114 ft). This extraordinary performance led to an entry into the Guinness World Records.

Records They are the symbol of the Dolomites. For many people they are the most impressive summits in the Alps, or even of the entire world. Famous and sought-after, certainly. Every year, thousands of hikers and mountaineers head to the Three Peaks in order to catch a close glance of the Forcella Lavaredo/ Paternsattel or the Rifugio Antonio Locatelli/Dreizinnenhütte hut. The summits are reserved for experienced mountaineers, the Piccola Cima/Kleine Zinne being anything but small or unremarkable, and athletically quite demanding. All of the three peaks – Cima Grande/ Große Zinne, Cima Ovest/Westliche Zinne and Cima Piccola/Kleine Zinne – are admired. Their popularity started back in 1869, when the Viennese alpinist Paul Grohmann together with the alpine guides Franz Innerkofler and Peter Salcher climbed up to the Cima Grande for the first time on August 21st. The surname Innerkofler should be closely linked to the Three Peaks over the following years and decades. The host of the Rifugio Antonio Locatelli hut Sepp Innerkofler became famous thanks to his setting of several new routes. His death in July 1915, during the battles fought between Italian and Austrian soldiers at the Monte Paterno/Paternkofel, is a myth still today.

Their majestic gracefulness provided the Three Peaks with more and more popularity. As it is usually the case with summit legends, more and more extraordinary events and records continue to spin around these alpine stars, too. The following is a selection of exceptional data and extraordinary stories:

The first ones:

The oldest one:

First ascent up to the Cima Grande, 2999 m (9839 ft), on August 21st in 1869 by Paul Grohmann and the alpine guides Franz Innerkofler and Peter Salcher in less than three hours along today’s normal route.

Filomena Happacher Villgrater from Sesto was 80 years old when she climbed up to the Cima Grande peak.

The fastest one: In September 2013, performed at the famous Drei Zinnen Run, it took Petro Mamu from Eritrea only 1:22:44 hours from the village centre of Sesto/ Sexten over the Zsigmondy- and Büllelejochhütte hut to the Drei-Zinnen-Hütte hut. Definitely not much time for 17.5 km (10.8 miles) and 1,350 m (4,429 ft) of elevation gain. By the way, another record holder is the New Zealander Jonathan Wyatt with five victories between 2001 and 2011.

The coldest ones: In March 2014, the two extreme mountaineers Ueli Steck and Michael Wohlleben managed the winter ascent of all three classic northern routes of the Three Peaks in less than 16 hours. 10

The most remarkable ones: It is impossible to climb the three summits in a faster and more direct way. The slackliners Armin Holzer from South Tyrol and Reinhard Kleindl from Austria stretched up their high rope lines between the Three Peaks in August 2011, and managed a slightly different “first ascent” of all three summits. The first high rope line was set at the Cima Grande.

The most accurate ones: It seems almost impossible that there is still room for something new at the highly popular Three Peaks. Yet the two alpinists Manuel Baumgartner and Alexander Huber from nearby Valdaora/Olang first ascended the route “Schatten der Großen” up the NW Face of Cima Ovest with 330 m (1,082 ft) of elevation gain and difficulty VII in June 2017. www.sexten.it

Three Peaks nature park Dolomites UNESCO World Heritage 2,999 m (9,839 ft) Cima Grande/Große Zinne

With a height of approx. 1.6 m (5.2 ft) 1,874 cars one on top of the other = Cima Grande/Große Zinne

2,857 m (9,373 ft)

2,973 m (9,753 ft)

Piccola Cima/ Kleine Zinne

Cima Ovest/ Westliche Zinne

A “stone man” of of 51 cm (20 inches),

A stair of 21 cm (8.2 inches)

One would need 5,601 stone men of this size, one on top of the other, in order to reach to top of the Cima Piccola/Kleine Zinne

One would need 14,157 stairs to reach the Cima Ovest/Westliche Zinne

Romantic

CHRISTMAS HOLIDAYS AROUND THE THREE PEAKS DOLOMITES Pre-Christmas season without stress and rush. Calm winter days instead, in the snow-covered mountain world around the Three Peaks: the Christmas market in San Candido/Innichen Christmas in the mountains at the Lago di Braies/Pragser Wildsee Lake and 3 Zinnen Ski Christmas Time cast a spell on young and old offering unforgettable experiences in the middle of nature and an authentic, traditional and festive atmosphere.

Georg Weindl (Author) 14

CHRISTMAS MARKET IN SAN CANDIDO

C H R I S T M A S I N T H E M O U N TA I N S AT T H E L A G O D I B R A I E S L A K E

Wonderful fragrances of mulled wine and cinnamon. Little wooden huts with atmospheric light decoration cluster the baroque church St. Michaelskirche. Christmas songs in the air. With its authentic and stylish atmosphere in front of a wonderful scenery of historic town houses, San Candidoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Christmas market has become one of the most attractive markets in South Tyrol in just a few years. This is mainly because instead of commerce, tradition and customs take centre stage. Products offered at the romantic sales stands are real local handicraft and regional culinary delicacies. Hand-knitted woollen caps, classic felt slippers, carvings made of pinewood and traditional Christmas tree decoration in the shop windows attract people from near and far. Taking a walk at the Christmas market means of course choosing between mulled wine and tea, chestnuts and gingerbread or South Tyrolean speck (slightly smoked, cured ham). Enjoy the Christmas market in San Candido from November 24th 2017 until January 6th 2018.

Christmas time in the Alta Pusteria/Hochpustertal Valley offers special quality. In front of the stunning scenery of the snow-covered Dolomites visitors as well as locals experience an intensely authentic and romantic atmosphere in the traditional villages, and they often feel like travelling back in time remembering when they were a child. Landscape does play an important role in this, and Christmas in the mountains at the Lago di Braies Lake is an excellent example for that. Directly at the banks of the picturesque mountain lake, visitors enjoy fascinating winter romance with atmospheric live music. In the evening unique plays of light, flickering candles and the moon, reflect their light in the lake waters. The historic Hotel Pragser Wildsee, whose ambient is protected as historic monument, completes this setting acting as breath-taking arena of the traditional handicraft market with plenty of regional specialties. Christmas in the mountains at the Lago di Braies Lake on weekends between December 2nd and December 18th 2017. The highlights are certainly its opening ceremony on December 2nd, the visit by Saint Nicholas with Angels and Servant Ruprecht on December 3rd and 9th, and prayers every Sunday at 11 am. Very popular and perfectly suitable to the romantic location at the Lago di Braies Lake are the horse-sledge rides offered especially for this event.

3 ZINNEN SKI CHRISTMAS TIME A unique and appealing offer is made by the Three Peaks ski resort. The Ski Christmas Time runs from December 2nd 2017 until January 7th 2018 and offers a multifaceted programme with culinary highlights and romantic experiences. In the worldwide unique Christmas ski resort guests dive into the festive atmosphere already when buying their ski pass. Biscuits offered at the cash desks, Christmas music from every angle, and tempting fragrances before one even arrives. At the Monte Elmo/Helm you can count all the lights decorating the tree of 1,000 stars and take a guess about the possible number. Young and old can write their letter to Santa, and have it sent at the real Santa’s post office at the ski resort at a height of 2,050 m (6,725 ft). Do not forget that Santa loves to make wishes come true, especially the ones intended for others. At the end of the Ski Christmas Time, one of the letters will be drawn, and the wish will made come true. In one of the participating ski lodges, there is an enchanting giant Advent wreath, carefully made by the local farmers’ wives. At the Croda Rossa/Rotwand directly at the reindeer enclosure, reindeer Rudi will be waiting with its sledge full of gifts. 18

During this period, the ski resort attracts visitors with very special culinary delicacies. Ten ski lodges offer a special Christmas dish. Starred chef Chris Oberhammer and television chef Markus Holzer with their two colleagues of Culinaria Tirolensis, toques chef Josef Mühlmann and sommelier Andrè Cis, have had a look into grandmother’s recipe book choosing some Christmas dishes and presenting them in an innovative way. Moreover, guests may look forward to special aperitifs, ski snacks, chestnuts on the terraces, and an exquisite Christmas punch.

THE HOLIDAY PASS ENJOYING ACTIVE & STRESS-FREE MOBILITY IN THE AREA OF THE THREE PEAKS DOLOMITES NEXT WINTER

It is common knowledge that the customer is king. That is why the member businesses of the Three Peaks/3 Zinnen in the Dolomites tourist boards offer their guests once again a very special treat this winter season: the HOLIDAY PASS – a free mobility card for public transport, a gift made by the host for a preferably car-free holiday.

Do you know this feeling? You are looking forward to the welldeserved holidays for a looooong time. Upon the much-anticipated arrival however, stress and rush continue: also in almost untouched holiday destinations, moving from point A to point B might require some patience and strong nerves. Queues, no parking spots, troublesome manoeuvres, etc. might not be the ideal circumstances for guests in need of relaxation. Respecting the spirit of smooth tourism the Alta Pusteria/Hochpustertal Valley, together with some other South Tyrolean destinations, counteract this kind of annoyance. The brilliant host gift is called HOLIDAY PASS. It is a mobility card offered the guests by the member businesses of the holiday region at their arrival, enabling them to use public transport free of charge in South Tyrol. The card includes regional trains as well as buses, transit buses and city buses and obviously – very important in winter – ski buses. The HOLIDAY PASS is thus an ideal combination between practicing the two top winter sports, cross-country skiing and downhill skiing, and the usage of trains and buses. At first glance, this idea might evoke an indifferent shrug, but if we look at it more closely, it turns out to be an enormous incentive with multifaceted potential. A part from a sensitive handling of Mother Nature and connected avoidance of unnecessary volume of traffic for the benefit of the ecosystem in the Dolomites UNESCO World Heritage, especially in the Alta Pusteria/Hochpustertal Valley, there are unexpected possibilities in terms of realigning one’s own range of motion. This means that the excellent transport infrastructure and the corresponding connections in all four cardinal points open up interesting new possibilities to organize the guests’ leisure activities. Starting on (cross-country)skis and head back by bus or train, or vice versa, or if you prefer by turns, using the comfortable Ski Pustertal Express to move from the skiing area Three Peaks Dolomites to the skiing area Plan de Corones/Kronplatz and so forth – there are plenty of options! Just ask the local tourist board or your host and get all the information you may need. Holidays can be so thrilling without the constant, irritating taking off and on of your 20

equipment, strenuous driving and never-ending worries for a parking space. Moreover, it is free of charge! The stress-free offer is included in your stay. Winter holidays in the land of the Three Peaks are absolutely worth it! Judith Steinmair (Author)

Terms of use • Tickets must state name of guest (name and surname) and name of tourist accommodation. • Tickets must be validated before each run directly on the bus or before getting on the train. • Tickets are valid for 7 days after their first validation (guests receive a second ticket for longer stays) . • Tickets are not transferrable and not cumulative. • The HOLIDAY PASS does not include: – Long-distance trains (Intercity, Eurocity, Euronight, Eurostar) – Transportation of bikes, dogs and other animals for which a separate ticket is needed (guide dogs and small animals excluded) • Timetable information: www.sii.bz.it

Fam. Ortner An der Botenbrücke, 1 I - 39038 Innichen Tel. +39 0474 913 588 www.villastefania.com info@villastefania.com

Or why regional groceries might change our attitude towards food Alexa Falk (Author)

The area of the Three Peaks/3 Zinnen in the Dolomites inspires hikers, skiers and nature lovers thanks to its unique mountain landscape with its remarkable Dolomites peaks. However, those who walk on sumptuous paths may enjoy summit experiences, too. No need to search on the map of good taste for long to find places, where all the elements magically come together, which sometimes are hurtfully missing elsewhere: culinary artistry, honest basic ingredients, attentive service, and a pleasant ambience. Be it a starred restaurant, a welcoming inn or a mountain hut – there is a network of culinary contact points in the region to choose from in line with everyone’s taste. They all have one thing in common: a style defining character, who sets the tone in the kitchen. Meaning the cook of course, who deserves credit for the fact that food is getting its importance back,

as it is freshly cooked and made of predominantly regional and seasonal ingredients. Food that tells a story. Agriculture and nature produce a wonderful assortment of basic products in our region, which in part are being newly discovered. Some of them stood in the shadow for a while, superseded by the convenience wave in gastronomy, by the increase of productivity in agriculture or simply refused by the zeitgeist. Now these products come to light again, often from sustainable or biological production. Old grain varieties, herbs, vegetables, tasty potato varieties, and meat and cheese specialties. Promoters of these products are cooks, inter alia, because they encourage local producers to focus on quality instead of on quantity, and provide them with planning certainty through purchase agreements.

Those who enter the Hotel Adler in Villabassa/ Niederdorf, feel that this place is taken care of with great passion. A glance at the carefully set tables at the restaurant, and it is clear that fine dining is an art here. “I’m a host, but preferably I’m a cook”, says Helene Markart speaking about >> 22

herself. She wrote her first recipe book about Tyrolean cuisine at the age of 28, and already back then had she attached importance to cook freshly made dishes using seasonal products. Following this principle, she composes her menu at the Restaurant Adler: traditional house dishes (her classic servings), new delicacies and seasonal specialties. In autumn, potatoes, poppy seeds, root vegetable. During Christmas time, pumpkin and artichokes. In spring asparagus, in June a series of early summer dishes, as for example an entire ox from Casies/Gsies, which refines a series of dishes for two weeks, be it an antipasto or a main course. In July and August, it is time for mushrooms, and in September, the circle is complete with the potato weeks called Erdepflwochn in local dialect. “A fine bourgeois cuisine with seasonal ingredients”, this is the way Helene Markart describes her art of cooking for which many guests specially make their way to the area of the Three Peaks Dolomites. To offer the guests fresh and healthy food has always been her ambition, “long before it became fashionable”, she remarks. Maybe sometimes one has to wait a couple of minutes longer for the dish he ordered, as it is freshly cooked, but it always pays off. Yet, nowadays the biggest challenge is time – of which guests often bring along too little, she believes. “It is luxury to have time for cooking and enjoying a meal. And to actually taste what you are eating.” Helene Markart remains unperturbable by society’s lack of understanding about time. She rather takes her time and tells her guests some stories about the origins of the food she is preparing. About healthy, vital groceries and about the philosophy her hotel pursues, which are tightly connected with regional and seasonal ingredients. “I cook things the way I would like to eat them”, she says. Based on this belief in August, for example, there is no freshly squeezed orange juice, even not under protest; in return, however, she charmingly praises the advantages of her self-made apple juice with celery from her vegetable garden. Thanks to Helene Markart’s constructive perseverance, she could also assert her career aspiration when she was a young girl. “At the age of nine I told my parents that I wanted to be a cook one day.” Had she followed her mother’s aspiration for her daughter, she would be a florist today. Well done, Helene! 24

The

grounded man Ten years ago, Markus Holzer bought a calf from a farmer for the first time. “I stood in front of it and asked myself how I should use it, in order to process the parts of lower quality, too.” As he started to deal with the products this way, many things changed. The term “groceries” got a new meaning. “It used to be alive” – this requires respect. Together with his family Markus Holzer is the manager of the Jora-Hütte hut at the ski resort Baranci/Haunold near San Candido/ Innichen. The food experience at his restaurant is called “Jora Mountain Dining”, and one can imagine that he would like to leave a massage instead of simply serving hearty hut food. Products, which come from the surrounding farms and ingredients stemming from wild collection, characterize his cuisine. “It is possible to cook on a grounded way generating top quality at the same time.” He is convinced that telling the story of a product leads to a different perception and appreciation encountered by the guests. Seasons play an important role on his menu, where dishes appear and disappear along seasonal changes. Wild spinach with herbs is available only in summer, as well as mushrooms. “You cannot get everything any time here.” Spring is the right season for rhubarb, autumn for cabbages, winter stands for poppy seeds and potatoes. In summer, herbs grow in his vegetable garden or stem from the hut’s surroundings. By doing so, some weeds have conquered his heart, as for example chickweed he processes into his famous Salsa Verde. Grounded knowledge about wild herbs he acquired thanks to a forester he used to walk through forests with, in order to deepen his learning. Moments of happiness Markus Holzer experiences when he may harvest vegetables from the field, which is run by a friend, a farmer who lives in Dobbiaco. “Thirty different vegetable varieties are planted there”, he says passionately. Four varieties of beans, onions, cabbage, etc. This tight relationship with nature and its products leads to surprising but at the same time grounded combinations for Holzer. For example, the mountain burger with biological Sprinzen beef from Pusteria, mayonnaise made of spruce needles, beetroot sauce, local grey cheese and coleslaw. “Being a cook means being an ambassador of your region, too”. 25

Chris Oberhammer is sitting in a bungalow flooded with light located in Dobbiaco/Toblach, on a self-designed chair. For seven years now, the modern cuboid in front of the ex-Grand Hotel Toblach is the top chef’s domain. In this place he has unfolded his personal philosophy of cooking, which is tightly linked to regionality and relationships to its surroundings. Oberhammer is an individualist, yet not a loner. Back in 1998, he was in Monte Carlo fully focused on his carrier as sous-chef of a Michelin 3-star restaurant – according to the New York Times “The best restaurant in the world”. Back to the roots, “because we live in the most beautiful region on earth”, he has given this region a helping hand in a culinary way. There are 14 seats in his restaurant. “In the best case scenario, guests remember what they had after they left the restaurant.” He manages to do that with a handful of groceries from the region. In addition, he fosters personal relationships with the producers, supports them with common projects, and tinkers with new concepts. “These products have more intense flavours. I cook with a few technical tools, as it was the case sixty/seventy years ago. My clients can sense that.” This development opens up unexpected possibilities for local farmers. Untiringly he faces the dialogue with his surroundings, motivates young farmers to dare new and sustainable solutions, for example herb cultivation or calf cattle. “It is touching when I manage to galvanize someone”, Oberhammer says. He cannot behave otherwise, as the cook’s job starts where the farmer’s work ends. Thanks to him, potatoes have had a glorious comeback: in autumn, he organizes a potato tasting for young farmers of the surrounding areas sending them on a discovery tour that unfolds the characteristics of different potato varieties. By the way, he buys his potatoes at the Klaudehof farm in Dobbiaco, as “fair trade has to start on your doorstep.”

It probably used to be an experiment at the very beginning, yet by now one could not imagine the cultural scene in the eastern part of our Province without it. With the Kunstraum CafĂŠ Mitterhofer the owner Manfred Mitterhofer, who is passionate about fine arts, has succeeded in creating a wonderful symbiosis between art and coffee culture, an oasis of little delicacies and creative inspiration. 26

Embedded in the pedestrian zone of San Candido/Innichen the tenderly arranged café attracts locals as well as tourists to come in and stay for a while, to have a chat and relax. Be it an unhurried coffee in the morning, an appetizing aperitif, a quick espresso after lunch, cake or ice-cream in the afternoon or an after-work drink with colleagues or friends – this is business as usual for a shop located in the heart of a popular tourist destination. The clocks here, however, seem to tick differently. “Carefully selected ingredients refined with a pinch of art”, the owner gets to the point describing his recipe for success. On the one hand, he depicts the exquisite coffee specialties prepared with care and great creativity as well as the range of products of local and regional origins. Most notably however, is the concept of an “exhibition or gallery café” in a broader sense, providing that certain something. For almost 25 years, Manfred Mitterhofer has combined his work at the café with his passion for art, especially for contemporary photography. Over the past years, he has been skilfully forging a bridge between the German and the Italian culture, meaning between the alpine and the Mediterranean influences offering established artists as well as young talents a stage for their artistic work. Being the founder of the “Kunstraum” to him means working as well as curator of the exhibitions: he personally chooses the artists and arranges the perfect placement of the pieces of art. The resourceful café owner can surely not complain about scarce inflow. A series of national and international artists, from South Tyrol and from adjoining areas (Osttirol and Nordtirol in Austria, Comelico and Cadore in Italy), from different Italian regions and from neighbouring countries as Austria, Switzerland and 28

Germany visited the café. Moreover, artists from Albania, France, Ukraine, Czech Republic, Poland, England and many more are, to date, part of the incredibly long exhibitors’ list. While the main emphasis of the cultural direction is clearly on the exhibitions, at the arts café there is surely space for different artistic forms of expressions as painting, graphics, video art, performance, poetry readings, book presentations or music. Art in a coffee house, embedded in the contemplative calmness of the Three Peaks/3 Zinnen in the Dolomites, far away from big urban centres – the idea was probably not an easy undertaking, admittedly. However, the concept has paid off. The Kunstraum Café Mitterhofer has become an important and appreciated reality in the South Tyrolean cultural business. A meeting point, where art and daily life merge, and different cultures flow into each other. An informal and casual place, where one can actively deal with art or simply decide to dive into it, quietly enjoying the artistic atmosphere … For any further information, also as to ongoing exhibitions, please visit the following website: www.kunstraum-mitterhofer.it Judith Steinmair (Author)

Maria Theresia Mairhofer Organic farmer at the Untersteinerhof farm in Villabassa/Niederdorf & herbal expert In my case, there are huge differences between the seasons. In summer, we have a tight programme with a series of different activities. Our farm is part of the on-farm tourism and we therefore take care of our guests. In addition, we need to handle all the other agricultural activities, which take lots of time: house, farm, fields, and everything correlated to my passion with herbs. There is no comparison to the cold season! In winter, it is definitely calmer; we have time to slow down. This is very important to me in order to create a healthy rhythm throughout the year, which I deliberately arrange that way. Wintertime is a welcoming possibility to use for some thinking about new projects, to have talks about my job and in general to slow down a little and relax.

I n t h e T h r e e Pe a k s i n t h e D o l o m i t e s i n A l t a P u s t e r i a , high and low season set the rhythm of life and work. H o w e v e r, w h a t e x a c t l y a r e p e o p l e u p t o d u r i n g t h e c a l m e r m o n t h s ? Or are they not so calm as they seem? Touristic places are usually crowed during high season. Sites are packed with people, a colourful hustle and bustle on the streets and in bars and restaurants, a series of leisure activities and events programmes. Low season however, often reveals a completely different picture. Yawning

emptiness prevails in many places, inns and taverns are mostly closed, some people here and there in the streets. “Deserted” – this is the expression generally used by locals. So, does this picture comply with the situation of the Three Peaks in the Dolomites as well?

With the boom of skiing & co. a series of infrastructures arose, meaning that in the area of the Three Peaks Dolomites today there are almost no limits to the guests’ wishes: hiking and mountaineering, cross-country skiing and down-hill skiing, relaxing and wellness possibilities, and much more! The eastern part of South Tyrol is considered THE touristic stronghold. Instead of a high season and a low season, in the Three Peaks Dolomites there are two high seasons and according intervals. The wonderful Alta Pusteria Valley attracts numerous visitors in summer as well as in winter. This is hardly surprising, as local pioneers focused on summer season AND on winter season already at an early stage. It was the bathing culture to make the Alta Pusteria Valley attractive as spa area at the very beginning. Visionary locals however, discovered the advantages of winter tourism, too.

From onset of winter until late spring, and from onset of summer until late autumn, visitors enjoy the beauty and all the advantages of the Alta Pusteria Valley every year. The so-called calm periods are reasonable, and are limited to a minimum. However, is this enough? What about the people who make a living from the tourism industry? Is their employment sufficient, or are there huge differences due to seasonal differences? Do these “breaks” actually exist, and what are the busy people from Alta Pusteria doing during those periods of time? The Almanac has asked some of those people a few questions … 30

Markus Rainer Ski instructor at the ski and snowboard school Monte Elmo/Helm-Versciacco/Vierschach Our ski school employs more than 30 ski instructors, and during winter season, we are obviously extremely busy. A part from the skiing season, we also need to look for other job possibilities. Almost all my colleagues have a second occupation, which is combinable with the activity as ski instructor. Ideal for this job combination are other branches in the tourism industry, positions in the hospitality sector for example, or again in the sports sector as hiking guides or tennis instructors. However, some artisan’s trades are also suitable for the handling of both, winter jobs and second occupations. Many acquaintances work as bricklayers or excavator operators. I also work in our hotel in Prato della Drava/Winnebach and in summer additionally in our alpine hut. Moreover, together with my friends I have founded a company, with which we are able to offer visitors hiking and bike tours as well as interesting excursions … creativity is the key!

Alfred Stoll Tenant at the Rifugio Bonner Hütte hut at the Corno di Dobbiaco/Toblacher Pfannhorn Our mountain hut is situated at 2,340 m (7,677 ft) above sea level, and it is open five months in summer and two months in winter, without closing days. In the months between, we have to make preparations for the actual season. Some interventions and processes are not apparent, but necessary and have to be done. When the hut is closed, I enjoy a short holiday and work as a carpenter – my second job – for about four months. It is not possible to make a living for my family with the earning of the hut only. This is the case of most mountain hut owners or tenants. Even if there are huge differences as to the location and the conditions of the hut, hosts mostly have a second mainstay; they often work as skiing or cross-country skiing instructors for example. 31

Thomas Walch Hotel owner in Dobbiaco/Toblach & chair of the Hotel and Restaurant Association of the district of Val Pusteria/Pustertal Valley Summer as well as winter tourism is actually important for us. Between them, there are the low seasons, in which we fight for sufficient overnight stays. At the end of the day, we need to maintain our accommodation structures. As tourism experts, we obviously endeavour to attract visitors possibly all year round in order to keep those â&#x20AC;&#x153;calm time periodsâ&#x20AC;? as short as possible. In fact, luckily this gap is getting shorter and shorter. This is because we are eager to increase the sensibility of different partners and institutions to enlarge the high season. A central role in this undertaking play aspects like mobility, the local transportation system, mountain huts and the cableway companies. Moreover, the organisation of big events during low season is an important pillar for our efforts envisaging longer high seasons.

Conclusion: Low season in the Three Peaks Dolomites suggests actually calmer times. For some people this recovery period is surely welcome, for others however, it may lead to critical circumstances. Low season may result unhurried and leisured; in any case, no one in this area seems to stay inactive or idle! Judith Steinmair (Author)

THE THREE PEAKS ARE OBVIOUSLY THE MOST FAMOUS AND MOST IMPRESSIVE SUMMITS. HOWEVER, AROUND THE SYMBOL OF THE DOLOMITES MANY OTHER ENCHANTING PEAKS AND SPECTACLES OF NATURE, AS THE SUN DAWN AT THE PICO DI VALLANDRO/ DÜRRENSTEIN, ARE ATTRACTIVE IN WINTER.

At the very end of the Val Fiscalina/ Fischleintal Valley near Sesto/Sexten, alpine history was and still is made today. Legendary alpine guides like Innerkofler Franz, who made the first ascent up to the Three Peaks in 1869 together with Paul Grohmann as well as Innerkofler Michl – “the King of the Dolomites”, because of its many first ascents – called this place their home. In summer, many mountaineers and hikers go from the Hotel Dolomitenhof passing the Rifugio Fondovalle/Talschlusshütte hut in direction of the Three Peaks and the Monte Paterno/ Paternkofel. In winter, fascinating tours attract tourists and locals as well.

says Martin Kopfsguter, mountain guide at the Alpinschule Mount Emotion in Villabassa/Niederdorf. Approximately three hours for the tour on snowshoes, up to the peak at 2,539 m (8,330 ft), for which one should carry some provisions, as the famous Rifugio Antonio Locatelli hut is closed in winter. In return, enjoying a perfect view on the Three Peaks and many other big summits once reached the top is a fantastic reward. On the way back, almost before arriving to the starting point, the Rifugio Fondovalle hut lures visitors to stop by and enjoy its excellent kitchen.

“IN WINTER THE TOUR FROM THE VAL FISCALINA VALLEY UP TO THE RIFUGIO ANTONIO LOCATELLI/DREIZINNENHÜTTE HUT, PROCEEDING ON THE RIGHT SIDE UP TO THE SUMMIT OF THE SASSO DI SESTO/ SEXTNER STEIN IS A CLASSIC“,

However, there are also smoother options. A perfect tour to start with is the one from Passo Monte Croce/Kreuzbergpass managing about 300 m (984 ft) of elevation gain on this easy snowshoeing tour, passing the Lago degli Orsi/Bärensee Lake >>

up to the Cima di Colosei/Schuss, a first-class panorama peak, recommends mountain guide Hannes working at the Alpinschule Sesto. A paradise for winter hiking fans is also the Prato Piazza/Plätzwiese. The high plateau on 2,000 m (6,561 ft) near the village of Braies/Prags offers not only marvellous cross-country skiing tracks in winter, but also impressive summit tours on skis or snowshoes. Ideal for snowshoeing hikes is the tour up to the Monte Specie/Strudelkopf. The 2,307 m (7,568 ft) high summit is the most beautiful snowshoeing tour of the region in the eyes of Paul Sapelza, working at the Alpinschule Monguelfo/Welsberg.

“ONE OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL SKI TOURING TRAILS LEADS TO THE 2839 M (9314 FT) HIGH PICO DI VALLANDRO, THE OUTSTANDING SUMMIT OF THE VAL PUSTERIA/PUSTERTAL VALLEY”, says Sapelza. About 2.5 hours for the ascent with normal speed along the moderate steep southeast edge, starting from the mountain hut Plätzwiese. From the top, one can enjoy a spectacular view on the summits of the Dolomites, from the Three Peaks to the Monte Cristallo. Especially around Christmas time, the ascent is rewarding, one can admire the rising sun between the towers of the Three Peaks. During times with little snowfall, it is possible to undertake this tour on foot. The Altapusteria/Hochpustertal Valley does not only have beautiful summit tours in the snow around the Three Peaks. There are several secrets spots on the northern side of the valley. “Take the route up to the 2,633 m (8,638 ft) high Corno di Fana/ Toblacher Pfannhorn”, recommends Martin Moser from the Alpinschule Globo Alpin in Dobbiaco/ Toblach. For many locals this is one of the favourite and most beautiful tours. Take the ascent from

“IT IS AN EASY TOUR, NOT EVEN TWO HOURS LONG, FROM WHERE YOU GET A FANTASTIC PANORAMIC VIEW, INCLUDING THE THREE PEAKS.” Each Tuesday he offers a guided tour along which one can find good rest points as well. Moreover, Prato Piazza has another classic tour to offer. 36

Gandelle/Kandellen, to the north of Dobbiaco, up to the Rifugio Bonner/Bonnerhütte hut at 2,340 m (7,677 ft), where one already gets an excellent view. “Due to the distance to the Dolomites summits, you will enjoy a perfect panorama”, says alpine guide Martin Moser. About 300 m (984 ft) of open terrain still up to the summit cross of the Corno di Fana. As the Rifugio Bonner hut is open in winter from December 26th until the end of February, this tour gets even more attractive. Another variant is the snowshoeing tour from Franadega/Frondeigen in the Valle San Silves-

tro/Silverstertal Valley near Dobbiaco up to the 2,476 m (8,123 ft) high Cavallo/Golfen. “A tour of medium difficulty with about three hours walking time and a stunning view from the top”, recommends Luis Strobl, a mountain guide from Dobbiaco. For him the Cavallo is one of his favourite guided tours, he says. As a rest point on the way back there is the Enzianhütte hut and the Kurferhof inn.

Georg Weindl (Author) 37

SOME TIPS FOR YOUR BEST TOURS VAL FISCALINA/FISCHLEINTAL VALLEY 1,454 M (4,770 FT)–SASSO DI SESTO/ SEXTNER STEIN 2,539 M (8,330 FT)

PRATO PIAZZA/PLÄTZWIESE 1,993 M 6,538 FT)–PICCO DI VALLANDRO/ DÜRRENSTEIN 2,839 M (9,314 FT)

Ski touring and snowshoeing Duration: 3 hours Elevation change: 1,100 m (3,608 ft) Difficulty: medium

Ski touring Duration: 3 hours Elevation change: 860 m (2,821 ft) Difficulty: medium

PASSO MONTE CROCE/KREUZBERGPASS 1,636 M (5,367 FT)–CIMA DI COLOSEI/SCHUSS 1,972 M (6,469 FT)

DOBBIACO/TOBLACH 1,241 M (4,071 FT)– CORNO DI FANA/TOBLACHER PFANNHORN 2,663 M (8,736 FT)

Snowshoeing tour Duration: 3 hours Elevation change: 300 m (984 ft) Difficulty: easy/medium

Ski touring and snowshoeing Duration: 4 hours Elevation change: 1,100 m (3,608 ft) Difficulty: medium

PRATO PIAZZA/PLÄTZWIESE 1,993 M (6,538 FT)–MONTE SPECIE/ STRUDLKOPF 2,307 M (7,568 FT)

DOBBIACO/TOBLACH-FRANADEGA/ FRONDEIGEN 1,627 M (5,337 FT)– CAVALLO/GOLFEN 2,493 M (8,179 FT)

Snowshoeing tour Duration: 2 hours Elevation change: 350 m (1,148 ft) Difficulty: easy

Snowshoeing tour Duration: 3 hours Elevation change: 800 m (2,624 ft) Difficulty: medium

winner

Where everyone is a

By mountain bike through the area of the Three Peaks/ 3 Zinnen in the Dolomites

Well, this is a good start. Villabassa/Niederdorf downtown: 4,500 mountain bikers ready for the race of their life. Suddenly, the long awaited go-ahead, a series of starting blocks – the field – is slowly starting to move, and some of them are grasping for fresh air already behind the starting line.

“

We always have two to five bikers who have their first flat tyre already at their start says the head of the Dolomiti Superbike Kurt Ploner but there are enough people available, who are ready to help out right away.

elevation gain, which are covered in four and a half hours by the fastest ones. In the first years, participants took more than an hour longer for this competition. On the one hand side, this is due to the fact that the best bikers get better and better and on the other hand side, because “some passages used to be a rocky desert, difficult to run”, Kurt Ploner remembers. “Meanwhile the trail has become very fast”. Food has changed as well. “Back in the days they used to ask for energy drinks and bananas only”, Kurt Ploner remembers. “Today bikers prefer cake and sandwiches. They like white bread rolls with ham, as it is easier to digest than wholemeal bread.” Accordingly impressive are the food masses prepared for the hungry bikers. More than 10,000 pieces of cake and sandwiches, fruit and water - and Coke “especially requested along the last kilometres, which gets away on pallets”.

“Today bikers prefer cake and sandwiches. They like white bread rolls with ham, as it is easier to digest than wholemeal bread.” Kurt Ploner As the president of the organizing committee since 1995, he is pleased about the race’s success. At its premiere, there were 623 participants. By now however, it has long become a huge event, which has attracted more and more racers. In order to guarantee a reasonable procedure, it was necessary to set a limit as to the number of participants: 4,500 athletes. The big tour, alternating clockwise and counter clockwise runs, leads from Villabassa through Dobbiaco/Toblach, San Candido/Innichen, Versciacco/Vierschach, Monte Elmo/Helm, Sesto/Sexten, Baranci/Haunold, Carbonin/Schluderbach and from there over Prato Piazza/Plätzwiese and Braies/Prags back to the starting point. This means 113 km (70.2 miles) and full 3,357 m (11,013 ft) of

The Dolomiti Superbike is the flagship of the bike region Three Peaks Dolomites, which is the basis for its legendary reputation among bikers with its ex-military roads and paths. Mountain biking pro Roland Stauder’s Stoneman Trail, marked with stone men along its way, is long a classic: 120 km (74.5 miles) and 4,560 m (14,960 ft) of elevation gain, which can be mastered in one, two or three smoother stages. A sporty day tour however, is the guided Giro Bike-Tour over five mountains with almost 3,500 m (11,482 ft) of elevation gain, where it is possible to use cableways for easy-going ascents in order to master only 360 m (1,181 ft) of elevation gain.

NATURE SHAPED BY HANDICRAFT & TRADITION

The present offer was enhanced by two new trails, especially suitable for mountain bikers, in summer 2017. They are not expressly planned as downhill trails only. “To a great extent the trails are natural and adapted to the terrain, in order to be less difficult”, explains Alfred Prenn from the cableways Drei Zinnen. “Many passages have been made by hand, whereas old and no longer used trails have been integrated, as it is the case with the new Standschützensteig on the Croda Rossa/ Rotwand. In case of damp passages we have built extra wooden bridge for protection”. >>

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A new highlight will certainly be the Erla Trail at the Orto del Toro/Stiergarten, which offers breath-taking views, like all the other bike trails, and which can be smoothly reached by the cable car Drei Zinnen to get to the starting point. Moreover, the existing bike trails have been marked and can be easily found thanks to noticeable signs. There should be no orienteering problems along the Dolomiti Superbike. “We have track marshals at every important spot, additional signs on the ground and barrier tapes”, says Kurt, who had to interrupt a race only once in 22 years. “On the Prato Piazza/Plätzwiese there were almost 20 cm of fresh snow and a drop in temperatures of about 10 degrees within one hour”, he remembers. “I didn’t have to think about it too long; I interrupted the race for security reasons”. Apart from that, the organisation has always been lucky with the weather, besides some rain or a thunderstorm one year. Less successful by contrast are athletes who try to cheat. “Some participants took the car in the Val di Landro/Höhlensteintal to drive for about 15 km and join the trail again”, says Kurt Ploner. “However, with time measurements and a series of controlling systems along the route, we are able to catch everyone.” Despite the number of participants, this bike marathon is still considered a familiar and intimate competition. “We are ready and available for anyone in need. Be it a broken chain, we immediately provide replacement and someone to do the job – this is not the case with other competitions. In the case of a flat tyre, we are promptly on site in order to enable the participant to quickly continue the race. Participants really appreciate that”, confirms Kurt Ploner. Only once our assistance has not worked out. “A woman came to me shortly before starting, and told me she had forgotten her helmet. Someone could help her out apparently, as I saw her later at the award ceremony – it was Sandra Klose, who won the bronze medal at the marathon world championships and now the Dolomiti Superbike”.

>> 44

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For all the volunteers and track marshals the race is long not over with the arrival of the winner. At the beginning, the field is compact, but the longer the trail, the longer it takes for participants to actually cope with it. “We therefore allow a time limit of max. 10 hours”, says Kurt Ploner, “which results in twelve km per hour average, being 120 km the entire route. That has to be enough. In front of the last ascent, we have a control area. Those who don’t reach that point by 3 pm, won’t be able to reach the finish line by 6 pm, and are eliminated of the ranking.” That is certainly disappointing, as for some years now, there is a big Dolomiti Superbike closing party waiting on the other side of the mountain.

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Kurt Ploner had the idea some years ago, as the last athletes “are those who really fight for it”. The reception is accordingly warm and overwhelming. “Shortly before 6 o’clock a music band starts playing, a big crowd fills the entire square. Sometimes there are more visitors showing up around that time, rather than watching the winner crossing the finish line.” By now, the word has been spread among the bikers as well: the last athletes get together in groups, and roll towards the finale. As soon as they approach the finish line, followed by a fire engine with siren, the big party is about to begin. One gets a lantern with a candle for the last metres and after the finish line a great jug of beer, which is passed on among the finalists. “They have no words”, says Kurt Ploner happily. “In other races no one is interested in the last participants crossing the finish line. At this event, they are celebrated like winners – the Olympic idea is the one that counts here.” Stefan Herbke (Author)

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Facts & numbers The area of the Three Peaks/3 Zinnen in the Dolomites with its villages Sesto/Sexten, San Candido/Innichen, Dobbiaco/Toblach, Villabassa/Niederdorf and Braies/Prags is a well-structured region, with a familiar atmosphere and rich in tradition. Its people are hospitable, and deeply rooted in their fabulous natural landscape.

The area of the Three Peaks in the Alta Pusteria Valley matches the eastern part of the Val Pusteria/Pustertal Valley on Italian territory, along the upper side of the river Drava/Drau. More precisely, the area is part of the Three Peaks Dolomites in South Tyrol on the stretch from Villabassa/Niederdorf and the border to Austria, including the side valleys towards Sesto/Sexten and Braies/Prags.

ALTITUDE:

1,115 m – 3,146 m

Holiday Pass:

In winter, public transport is free of charge.

In case of ideal weather conditions, the area of the Three Peaks offers a special combination of sparkling alpine climate and Mediterranean sweetness. A real enchantment for tourists as well as for locals. The amount of sunny days is definitely high, however also in summer temperatures remain pleasant. The mountain air is clean and clear – a fantastic area in every season of the year.

Cross-country skiing

200 km

family ski resorts

5 FIS (International Ski Federation) runs, 126.14 km (78.3 mi) of red runs, 61.74 km (38.3 mi) of blue runs.

ACCOMMODATION STRUCTURES of different categories

11.7 km (7.2 mi) black runs

43 km (26.7 mi) red runs

38.3 km (23.7 mi) blue runs

MAKE WAY FOR

200

kilometres of pistes

617

100

kilometres of pistes for all levels

Baranci/Haunold Rienza/Rienzlifte Waldheim Monte Croce/Kreuzberg Braies/Prags

26.5 km (16.4 mi) of black runs

days of sunshine

Monte Elmo/Helm Orto del Toro/Stiergarten Croda Rossa/Rotwand Monte Croce/Kreuzberg Dolomiti del Comelico

lifts

34 runs,

300

with 5 connected mountains

travelling with the Ski Express Pusteria to the ski resorts Plan de Corones/Kronplatz and Three Peaks Dolomites 48

The area of the Three Peaks Alta Pusteria is known around the globe especially for the Dolomites, in particular for the Three Peaks. The Nature park Fanes-Senes-Braies and the Nature park Three Peaks are part of the UNESCO World Heritage Dolomites. Especially interesting for tourists are the Val Fiscalina/Fischleintal Valley, the Lago di Braies/Pragser Wildsee Lake, the high plateau Prato piazza/Plätzwiese, Dobbiaco/Toblach as cultural centre, San Candido/Innichen with its important collegiate church and Villabassa/Niederdorf with its first Kneipp wellness park in Italy. 49

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