Almanac winter 2018/19 by Tourist Info Innichen San Candido

Issue no. 49 | 2018/19

Almanac 3 Zinnen Dolomites

Available free of charge at tourism associations and member companies

23rd Nov – 6th Jan 2019

„

UNDER THE BANNER OF TRADITION AND GENUINENESS I don’t know anything more idyllic, THIS is the cosiest and most beautiful Christmas market indeed. The village itself and the surrounding landscapes are absolutely enchanting. People have put their heart and soul into it. Find out for yourself! CHRISTMAS MARKET 23rd Nov 2018 24th – 25th Nov 2018 30th Nov 2018 1st – 2nd Dec 2018 6th – 7th Dec 2018 8th – 9th Dec 2018 14th Dec 2018 15th – 16th Dec 2018 17th – 20th Dec 2018 21st Dec – 6th Jan 2019 24th Dec 2018 25th Dec 2018

6th – 22nd April 2019 GREAT PRIZES FOR YOU! Big times for the Easter bunny while hiding loads of eggs in San Candido-Innichen! Pink, big and small Easter eggs can be found – everywhere in the shop windows of all the shops and stores! Those who manage to find them all will certainly be rewarded: wellness week-ends, prizes, and shopping vouchers are waiting for you!

www.sancandido.info

The biggest

2 pm – 7 pm 10.30 am – 7 pm 2 pm – 7 pm 10.30 am – 7 pm 2 pm – 7 pm 10.30 am – 7 pm 2 pm – 7 pm 10.30 am – 7 pm 2 pm – 7 pm 10.30 am – 7 pm 10.30 am – 3 pm CLOSED

EASTER EGG hunting of the Dolomites

©Drei Zinnen Marketing/H. Wisthaler

Dear Readers, First of all, a warm welcome—whether you are spending your winter holiday with us in the region of the 3 Zinnen in the Dolomites for the first time or you have been loyal guests for years—we are delighted that you have chosen to share your most precious time, namely your holidays, with us. As always, we strive to meet your expectations, so that you will return home with as many breathtaking impressions, exciting experiences and wonderful memories as possible … and we will remain close to your heart. “Almost like a piece of heaven” is what we often hear with regard to our natural and mountain landscape. And indeed, this is no exaggeration, as our amazing Alpine world is godsend! The spectacular mountain formations of the UNESCO world heritage site of the Dolomites, endless pastures, meadows, fields, forests and the romantic mountain lakes—all this characterises the unmistakeable charm of the Hochpustertal valley. Our beautiful region exudes a very special charm, especially in the wintertime. Covered by a pristine blanket of white, our winter landscape simply enchants every observer. This is the essence of lore and fantasy that winter fairy tales are made of. So simply stop, marvel and enjoy. Soak up the pure and refreshing winter air, cleanse your body and soul and leave the stress of everyday life behind. With us, winter is just at its best: have fun with family and friends, take a long walk through the winter landscape, speed down mountains on a sledge, discover the most remote corners on snow shoes or try the pleasure of skiing 2.0. Then lift your spirits with a delicious hot drink, indulge in one of our numerous wellness centres and conclude the evening with the much-praised South Tyrolean cuisine. What more could you wish for? Or is there more? We always have some surprises in store! In this guest magazine, you will find out what else the region of the 3 Zinnen in the Dolomites has to offer. In the current winter edition of the Almanac, we also provide you with many useful tips and information about the Hochpustertal. We reveal some highlights from the event programme and introduce you to many interesting events, locations, infrastructures and personalities.

Dieter Wurmböck

So we wish you lots of fun reading our Almanac and, of course, an inspiring stay in the region of the 3 Zinnen in the Dolomites!

OUR HOUSE. YOUR HOTEL.

President of the Tourist Board 4

Dieter Wurmböck

Sporthotel Tyrol **** | Via Drava 12 San Candido | Tel. +39 0474 913 198 | info@sporthoteltyrol.it | www.sporthoteltyrol.it

©Drei Zinnen Marketing/M. Kottersteger

In this edition

2018/19

Skiing Season 2018/2019

Mountains under stars

Winter is getting better than ever

Breathtaking photographs

�� 8–13

�� 30–35

The easiest and fastest route to the most scenic cross-country runs

A thrill next to flying ... “E-mountain bike” trend �� 36–41

What more can you ask for? �� 14–17

Anniversary of the market town of San Candido/Innichen

Where authentic farmer’s bread is still baked locally with traditional techniques High-quality, regional products

�� 18–23

�� 42–45

150 th anniversary of the first ascent Große Zinne mountain

Lift the curtain up on the exciting cultural kaleidoscope of the Three Peaks in the Dolomites

�� 24–26

To-go list for your

Celebrations at the

SKIING SEASON 2018/2019 WINTER IS GETTING BETTER THAN EVER

next summer holiday

A life dedicated to climbing

�� 46–49

Reiner Kauschke

Get social

�� 28–29

�� 50–51

8–13

Where authentic farmer’s is still baked locally with traditional techniques

bread

18–23

42–45

CREDITS Our partners:

Editor: Drei Zinnen Marketing Editor in charge: Michael Wachtler Grafics und Layout: Werbeagentur Rotwild (Brixen) – www.rotwild.it Printing: Litopat S.p.A. Editorial office & coordination: Drei Zinnen Marketing Translations: “porta germanica” Maria Luisa Schäfer Cover: Harald Wisthaler All information is subject to change

Â©Drei Zinnen Marketing/M. Kottersteger

SKIING SEASON

2018/2019

WINTER IS GETTING BETTER THAN EVER

©Drei Zinnen Marketing/3 Zinnen Dolomites

For many guests, skiing in the holiday region 3 Zinnen Dolomites starts with a surprise. After the first climb to the Helm, there is a short break before the upper station. The view from this altitude of 2,000m is simply phenomenal—with the jagged peaks of the Sextner Dolomites to the south and the Three Peaks behind it, the Lienzer Dolomites to the east and the Zillertaler Alps to the north. And at your feet is almost the entire Pustertal valley.

©Drei Zinnen Marketing/M. Kottersteger

This coming winter season, the 3 Zinnen Dolomites ski resort offers plenty of new features. These include a comfortable, powerful lift facility, two additional ski runs, one additional ski hut and a new snow-making facility, the best of its kind in Northern Italy.

A new 6-pack chairlift, new slopes and more fun for the youngsters It is not only the scenery that inspires visitors of this skiing region. There are five consecutive mountains offering a total of 110km of ski runs, slopes ranging from wide and comfortable to black and super steep—such as the Rotwand mountain with a descent of 72%, the steepest ski slope in Italy. So there are various skiing options for exciting days or even weeks on numerous tracks. This winter, skiing in the Three Peaks region will become even more attractive and stimulating ensured by a number of innovations. On the Helm mountain, the nostalgic and more than 40 year old double chairlift “Middle Station” has been replaced by a 10

modern 6-pack chairlift with canopy, seat heating and child-friendly moving walkways. In the area linking the Stiergarten and Rotwand mountains there are two additional runs, Signaue 2 and the Kristlerhang variation, a simpler alternative to the more challenging slopes. The gastronomic offer is upgraded by the new mountain hut Zin Fux near the valley station of the Drei Zinnen cable car. Both skiing mountains Helm and Rotwand will be enhanced by a Family Funslope with steep slopes, waves, snow tunnels, bridges and a snail.

Snow guaranteed by Northern Italy’s best snow-making facility In the coming season, winter sports aficionados will benefit from better snow conditions. To ensure this, extensive investments were made in the expansion of the snow-making system, which—thanks to the new, state-of-the-art pumping station and reservoir with a capacity of almost 100,000m³— reduces the snow making time for the area to record breaking 40 hours and therefore makes it the most powerful system in northern Italy. This is an extremely important investment in the already very snow-sure area situated between 1,130m and 2,200m in altitude, especially as far as the beginning of the ski season is concerned.

©Drei Zinnen Marketing/M. Kottersteger

The children skiing area Rienz in Dobbiaco/Toblach village features a big airbag for all freestylers and adrenaline junkies. Who dares to do a back or front flip? From youngsters to young adults, we are looking for the most exceptional acrobats. If skiing conditions at the Rienz ski lift are good, there is nothing better for small skiing professionals than to have fun on the various forest paths between the snow-covered trees.

Giro delle Cime—across the Dolomites on skis

Skiing without borders—in connection with Sillian

Five mountains and 5,600m in altitude ... A tour of the summits in the region of the Three Peaks in the Dolomites is an enchanting journey on skis. Up the mountain by train, down the splendid slopes on skis: from Versciaco/Vierschach, via Helm and Stiergarten to Rotwand, and via the Kreuzberg mountain pass, in the neighbouring Veneto, to the ski area of Valcomelico in Padola. Every Wednesday and Sunday, professional ski instructors offer complimentary guided tours. They start at the Helm Restaurant at 09:40 a.m.

The current 110km of ski runs will soon be 160km. In the near future, the ski resort of the Three Peaks in the Dolomites will give access to the neighbouring ski area of the Eastern Tyrolean Sillian. A leading ski resort that will not only connect two countries and three regions, making it unique in the large network of Dolomiti Superski; but will also offer three different cultures and cuisines for moments of pure enjoyment.

Georg Weindl (Author) 13

ÂŠDrei Zinnen Marketing/H. Wisthaler

The easiest and fastest route to the most scenic crosscountry runs What more can you ask for? The holiday region 3 Zinnen in the Dolomites spoils cross-country skiers with its amazing cross-country tracks covering approx. 200km, ranging from easy tracks for beginners to famous panoramic routes and cross-country runs for international races. Into the bargain, it offers excellent connections to the tracks with central access, tailored mobility solutions, the spectacular Nordic Arena and a wide range of services. 14

With merely a few kilometres separating them, as the crow flies, there are a number of highlights when it comes to cross-country skiing in the Dolomites. Enjoy the ultra modern Nordic Arena in Dobbiaco/Toblach, a stadium at the southern rim of the village which hosts numerous renowned international competitions, such as the Tour de Ski or the Pustertaler Ski-Marathon, and which many professional teams use for training. It offers everything an athlete’s heart desires: from ski rental to showers and locker rooms. You only need to use your ski poles a few times to access one of the most fascinating cross-country ski runs. It leads from Dobbiaco, via the picturesque lakes of Toblacher See and Dürrensee with its view of the Three Peaks, to the majestic Kristallberg mountain on to Cortina d’Ampezzo. This route hosts the renowned Cross Country Ski Race Dobbiaco-Cortina which takes place every year in February. 500m higher in this vicinity you will find the Plätzwiese, a plateau located at a height of 2,000m with perfect, snow-sure cross-country runs and a 360° panoramic view.

Transfers via bus and train

Travelling

directly to the cross-country runs

These three attractions underline the exceptional quality of the cross-country options in the region of the Three Peaks in the Dolomites, which offers approximately 200 kilometres of cross-country skiing trails. Visitors, who want to go cross-country skiing, have an unusually great variety of ski runs to choose from. These can also be combined with a cross-country ski journey. Guests in the Three Peaks region have everything at their fingertips. Many access points are located in the centre of villages, such as San Candido/Innichen, where the cross-country ski run is only a few steps away from the pedestrian zone. In Villabassa/ Niederdorf village, the cross-country ski run starts right at the railway station of the Ski Pustertal Express. In Dobbi-

©Drei Zinnen Marketing/H. Wisthaler

©Drei Zinnen Marketing/T. Gruener

with cross-country skis aco, the City-Bus tranfers cross-country skiers directly to the Nordic Arena. Over and above an excellent public transportation network, cross-country skiers have an unusual choice of different options. The Ski Pustertal Express connects the stations of Villabassa, Dobbiaco, San Candido and Versciaco/Vierschach. The regional busses pass by many cross-country ski runs, such as the one near the border to Austria which goes all the way to Villabassa and Dobbiaco or the one from Dobbiaco to Cortina d’Ampezzo. There are also bus connections via Braies/Prags to the Plätzwiese with its panoramic view and extensive cross-country ski run network.

Given this multitude of options, cross-country skiers can take long, individual tours through the region of the Three Peaks in the Dolomites. For instance, starting in Versciaco adjacent to the San Candido railway station, and travelling from there to Dobbiaco via the Nordic Arena into the famous Höhlensteintal valley towards the View of the Three Peaks to Cortina. The cross-country ski run follows the former railway line and is situated amidst two nature reserves in the centre of the UNESCO world heritage site of the Dolomites. If desired, the return can be shortened by using a public bus. This beautiful cross-country trail can

also be comfortably combined with buses, either for the return journey or parts of the tour to condense it. Another option is a cross-country ski trail from Villabassa railway station along the shore of the Rienz river and via Braies moderately uphill towards the famous Pragser Wildsee lake. It is up to each individual how much they want to cross-country ski or travel by train or bus. This is a matter of personal preference. At any rate, a complimentary Holidaypass, which grants free use of the public transportation network in the winter, is an added bonus for all guests of the holiday region 3 Zinnen in the Dolomites.

Georg Weindl (Author) 16

In 2019, the market town of San Candido will celebrate a very venerable anniversary: this historic community in the Hochpustertal valley was founded an impressive 1250 years ago. This is an anniversary to be celebrated in style. And that is precisely what the people of San Candido are planning. They have come up with a fair amount of ideas in honour of this joyful event. An initiative and organisational group, numerous associations and institutions and ultimately the entire village community are enthusiastically involved in this anniversary and have actively gathered ideas to make this very special year an unforgettable one. The result is a colourful array of diverse events and projects taking place throughout the year, ranging from parties, festivals and concerts to conventions, new book releases and many other elements. We have selected a few highlights from the event calendar for you:

ÂŠDrei Zinnen Marketing/I. Bader

Anniversary of the market town of San Candido/ Innichen

ÂŠDrei Zinnen Marketing/M. Gratton

San Candido celebrates its 1250th year

Official opening of the anniversary year It will literally start with a bang to the beat of a drum in the new year, officially opening the anniversary year in a style befitting the occasion. Accompanied by the San Candido marching band, distinguished guests and other participants in the festivities will walk through the town from the Franciscan Monastery to the town square. The subsequent ceremony at the new music pavilion with many musical shows will officially usher in the year. Date: 1 st January 2019

©Drei Zinnen Marketing/R. Krasnig

©Drei Zinnen Marketing/M. Schoenegger

A great birthday party So again to reemphasise for the record: San Candido will be an incredible 1250 years old! This is an impressive age, even in “Good old Europe”. And of course, we cannot miss out on throwing a real anniversary party on such an important occasion. And we won’t! The population of San Candido has so much in store, that one highlight will follow the next during the three days of celebration. The music events in particular will rock things! Whether it is sacred music, loving serenades from neighbouring communities and associations or the “Freisinger Pre-lunch Drink” with a traditional Bavarian fare … no eyes will stay dry—whether out of emotion or laughing. Date: 31 st May to 2 nd June 2019

©Drei Zinnen Marketing/M. Gratton

Convention “San Candido–historical and art historical aspects from the foundation of the Monastery in 769 to the High Middle Ages” This 3-day convention sheds light on the history of San Candido, spanning several centuries and considering it from a variety of different perspectives. The sophisticated programme includes a keynote lecture about Tassilo III, Duke of Bavaria, as a founder of the monastery, plus numerous specialist lectures as well as a presentation of the volume “Commemorative publication on San Candido’s anniversary 2019” compiled by the famous local historian Egon Kühebacher. A tour of the Collegiate Church of San Candido, guided by the South Tyrolean Art Historian and Curator of Monuments, Leo Andergassen, completes this series of events. Date: 31 st January to 2 nd February 2019

New from Loacker! Historical parade Even today, older inhabitants of San Candido still recall the historical parade of 1969 enthusiastically. Back then, the history of San Candido—from the first settlements in the Roman era to the reign of the Prince-Bishopric of Freising—was represented in numerous images. So standards are high, if this year’s parade of the San Candido Market Festival is meant to amaze the visitors. At any rate, the event is highly anticipated. By the way, this 3-day market festival with its numerous culinary and musical delights only takes place every other year and is—in itself—a widely known and popular event. Date: 12 th to 14 th July 2019 14 July 2019 (historical parade) th

The

Loacker

pastry workshop Info: www.loacker.com I: +39 0471 344000 • A: +43 4842 6060

experience

Toblach Dobbiaco

Innichen San Candido

Heinfels

enjoy

shop

Lienz

15 min. from Dobbiaco

Panzendorf 196 – 9919 Heinfels – Austria

©Drei Zinnen Marketing/H. Oberhofer

Apart from the usual event calendar, San Candido is also hosting a multitude of projects specifically tailored to the anniversary year, which should be of interest to guests and aficionados of the Hochpustertal valley. In addition to the scientific festival book, the South Tyrolean publishing house Folio-Verlag will publish an informative, coffee-table book with amazing photographic material, which takes his readers and viewers on a stroll through San Candido’s history. This illustrated book is available in German and Italian and will certainly be a fantastic memento to take home. Another exciting element for the guests will be the history parcourse, with the aim of experiencing San Candido’s monuments and historically interesting objects with an entirely new awareness. Guests, who choose to participate in this parcourse, get a stamp at every one of a total of 30 stations throughout the village, including information and background knowledge; and upon completion, they can compile their own historical file of San Candido. For more information and details—or for anything regarding the anniversary year with its colourful programme—you may also visit the specially designed anniversary website. It is full of exciting information not to be missed. So please click on the following link: www.1250.bz.it and don’t forget: San Candido is celebrating a memorable anniversary and you are all invited to join in!

Judith Steinmair (Author)

rt e d ia a ti n g / M n M a rk e Z in n e © D re i

150 th anniversary of the first ascent Celebrations at the Große Zinne mountain In celebration of the 150th anniversary of the first ascent of the Große Zinne, a comprehensive programme of events is planned in the Hochpustertal valley. The highlight is a film by Reinhold Messner about the alpine milestones at the Große Zinne. Stefan Herbke (Author)

The flagship of the Dolomites is well hidden. Not only mountaineers and passionate hikers know the image of the Three Peaks with the three boldly shaped rock obelisks and the majestic northern rock faces, which tower up into the sky, partly vertically and partly with overhanging sections. This classic calendar motif is, however, only visible from one location in the valley. Anybody who drives from Dobbiaco/Toblach village into the Höhlensteintal valley, knows the short passage north of the Dürrensee lake from which you can catch a glimpse of the Three Peaks through the Rienztal valley. It is a popular, easily accessible viewpoint. The classic panorama from the Three Peaks hut (Drei-Zinnen-Hütte) does, however, require a hike. From here you can enjoy the Three Peaks in all their glory. Whilst it is an amazingly 24

attractive motif at any time of the day and in any weather, it is particularly impressive in the evenings when the sun paints the northern rock faces in a mellow, somewhat serene reddish light. Even for the locals, the view of the Three Peaks is something special. “Although I grew up in these parts, looking at the Three Peaks still has this wow effect over and over again!”, says Kathrin Tschurtschenthaler from the Dobbiaco Tourism Association. Despite the extraordinary, unique shape, it took quite some time, before mountaineers tackled the Große Zinne for the first time. At first they started with the highest peaks of the Alpine chain and then other mountains moved into the limelight. Finally, on the 21 st of August 1869 the time had come: >> 25

Viennese Paul Grohmann, who had already been the first to climb several important summits in the Dolomites, managed to reach the very pinnacle of the Große Zinne without encountering any major challenges—thanks to his two local mountain guides Franz Innerkofler and Peter Salcher. The route corresponded largely to the standard route which is still mostly used today and which requires level III climbing skills. The Three Peaks have given this region between Sesto/Sexten, San Candido/Innichen, Dobbiaco, Villabassa/Niederdorf and Braies/Prags its name—and they have also become the landmark of the UNESCO world heritage site of the Dolomites. While the number of people climbing the Große Zinne may be small, it is a must to have at least seen it. Within the framework of the 150 th anniversary of the first scaling of the Große Zinne, numerous events, projects and festivals are planned in many locations along the Hochpustertal valley. One of the key features of the festivities is the premiere of the 45-minute mountain movie “Die Große Zinne” on 21 st August 2019. “The film is not only about the first ascent by Paul Grohmann, but also about the art of climbing the Große Zinne to this day,” explains Kathrin Tschurtschenthaler enthusiastically, “to produce it, they recreated some of the most spectacular climbing routes, from the first ascent via the north face by Emilio Comici with the brothers G. and A. Dimai in 1933 over the Hasse/Brandler trail—the first route which leads straight through the central, strikingly yellow, weathered facades with their overhangs to the summit—to the first free solo ascent of the Direttissima by Alexander Huber in 2002”. A fitting tribute to the Three Peaks, which are more popular than ever before on the 150 th anniversary of the Große Zinne’s first ascent.

Programme extract of the 150th anniversary celebrations of the Große Zinne 4 th JANUARY 2019 Opening of the anniversary year and the Mountain Film Festival The makers of the Sesto Mountain Film Festival present movie classics, short films and exciting documentaries throughout the year. 9 th and 10 th JUNE 2019 Mountain time You can tell the time by looking at the position of the sun over the peaks of what is referred to as the Sesto Sundial (nine, ten, eleven, twelve and one). In June and July, this phenomenon becomes particularly visible due to a unique mise-en-scène. On 9 th of June, the festive opening will take place within the framework of the Dolomites UNESCO Fest. 26 th JUNE 2019 Accessible summit registers From the 26 th June, Sesto will take down the summit registers in the valley; these are staged in a spectacular manner in order to make them come alive for everyone. 13 th to 20 th JULY 2019 Mountain weeks in Sesto In cooperation with the mountain climbing school Alpinschule Sexten Drei Zinnen and the Drei Zinnen Nature Reserve, a number of themed lectures and guided mountain tours will be offered along amazing panoramic mountain tracks. 21 st AUGUST 2019 The big day In celebration of the first ascent of the Große Zinne, a large mountain festival will take place. It will feature special attractions, such as the time capsule installation at the Paternsattel mountain and an experiential tour through the history of the Fischleintal valley. 21 st AUGUST 2019 The big movie premiere The premiere of Reinhold Messner’s new mountain film “Die Große Zinne” will take place in the Dobbiaco Ice Rink. 23 rd & 24 th AUGUST 2019 Mountaineers Party The Hochpustertal Mountain Rescue Services is pleased to invite you to the Mountaineers Party held in in the Dobbiaco Ice Rink in celebration of the first ever ascent of the Große Zinne.

Fam. Ortner Via al Ponte dei Corrieri, 1 I - 39038 San Candido Tel. +39 0474 913 588 www.villastefania.com info@villastefania.com

A life dedicated to climbing

Reiner Kauschke

©Drei Zinnen Marketing/ Tourist Info Dobbiaco

©Drei Zinnen Marketing/H. Wisthaler

“

Every time I was on the Zinne pinnacle, I felt great“

Reiner Kauschke first conquered the Große Zinne mountain in 1959 and in 1963, he made the headlines with the first ever winter ascent of the Super Direttissima. Fifty eight years later, on his 80th birthday, he and his South Tyrolean mountain guide, Christoph Hainz, repeated this spectacular route along the north face of the Große Zinne. “I exercise every day,” reveals Kauschke proudly, nipping any doubts about his physical conditioning and strength in the bud. An extraordinary revelation, given that the sprightly Saxonian, who has been living in Dobbiaco/Toblach in the Hochpustertal valley since 1964, celebrated his 80 th birthday in the summer of 2018. This birthday celebration wasn’t just a quiet one with his family, but—just like every year on the 15 th of August— was spent with friends scaling the Große Zinne. Despite the fact that Kauschke knows every step and stone on the standard trail (a Level III route in terms of difficulty) his friends implored him to give them a gift and assurance for his birthday: “Reiner, now that you are 80, you will no longer climb up the Große Zinne alone.” “In the past, we often started at 3 a.m., climbing quickly up the Große Zinne and, four hours later, I would turn up at work, punctual as always,” Kauschke adds with a smile. 28

The Three Peaks are still special for Kauschke, despite the fact that he has climbed, scaled and defeated some of the most challenging rock faces on the Dolomites. The unique rock obelisks had spellbound him ever since his youth; however, back then, the Dolomites and this rocky paradise were unattainable. Kauschke grew up in the German Democratic Republic (GDR) and started climbing in the Elbe Sandstone Mountains at the age of 16. Whilst the area served as a perfect climbing school, its rock faces with heights of only 80 metres, were quite modest for Kauschke’s lofty ambitions: he dreamed of climbing tours through the Alps, of rock faces several hundred metres high—and of the Three Peaks, which he drew in his tour booklet. He had the strong desire to climb them at least once, and so he used an authorised visit to Western Germany to do just that. He then simply stayed behind—and has been living his dream ever since!

“We worked through the winter,” explains Kauschke, “and from mid-May onwards we spent the summer months in the mountains.” In 1958, he travelled for three days from Stuttgart to the Hochpustertal valley by bike. “We had a lot of respect,” he recalls of his first encounter with the Three Peaks and the first successful tours. In 1959, he first reached the summit of the Große Zinne; and in February 1961, he and his friend, Werner Bittner, climbed the Große Zinne for the first time via the north face—the very first climb of the Direttissima called “Hasse-Brandler” in winter. Since then, he has regularly climbed his favourite peak. “I stopped counting at the 140 th ascent,” he laughs, “and this is quite a long time ago, when I was still working.” Kauschke and the Große Zinne are inextricably linked—ever since he and his climbing partners Peter Siegert, Gert Uhner and Horst Siegert, along with ground assistant Rolf Siegert, successfully completed the Saxonian Path along the north face of the Große Zinne in January 1963. A feat made all the more impressive keeping in mind that the climb took place in the middle of winter with temperatures dropping to below -30°C. It was an unusual route, which mostly followed the “line of the falling drop” and went down in climbing history as the Super Direttissima. It was only due to a cash advance from his employer that Kauschke was able to realise his dream project. “We planned for a total of 11 days, however, in the end it took us 17,” he recounts. “It was so cold, which hindered our progress; there was one day, when we only managed to climb seven metres.” Warm sleeping bags ensured that at least the nights were bearable—“We slept well”—but the cold created other problems. “Our chocolate was so hard that we had to use a hammer to break it into smaller pieces and we gnawed away at the frozen sausages like mice”, he recounts. There was never a lack of motivation, as the summit was their goal. He recollects their first steps on horizontal ground being unusual. After 17 days on the partly overhanging rock face, “it was an odd feeling standing on both feet and walking”.

©Drei Zinnen Marketing/A. Tezzele

The Drei Zinnen are not only very special for Reiner Kauschke due to his Alpinist successes, they are also a particularly energizing place. “Every time I had the opportunity to go up the Zinne early in the morning, I felt like I could take on the world—no matter what happened, it simply didn’t bother me.” The Three Peaks and their energizing influence are, however, only one reason for his great physical condition. “Now, I will tell you a secret,” he says mysteriously, “I drink goat’s milk every day and use Swedish Bitters, which I massage onto my skin, wherever it hurts.” Due to this, Kauschke is well-equipped to climb up the vertical to the overhanging north face of the Große Zinne; even at his advanced age. After the South Tyrolean mountain guide, Christoph Hainz, also conquered the Super Direttissima in the winter of 1997— alone and in a record-breaking time of eight hours—they climbed the tour together, one year later in celebration of Kauschke’s 60 th birthday. “If you are in good health and everything works out, we can do the tour again on your 80 th birthday,” Hainz commented euphorically back then. In the summer of 2018 the time had come. The weather was good, conditions were right and so Christoph Hainz gave Kauschke a quick call. “Are you in shape?” was the rhetorical question, “Pack something to drink and I will come pick you up at 3.00 a.m.” Kauschke immediately agreed, without thinking twice. He is in very good shape, and while his arms may have grown thin over the years, they still have an Alpinist’s strong grip. When asked what he thought about the tour, he has hardly anything to say in retrospect, apart from: “Christoph did all the lead climbing without ladders. I would never have gotten up there by myself.” Kauschke did, however, notice that the hooks from the first ascent were still in the rock face: “They all held steady after all these years.” And yet, he was even more excited about the time aspect: “On our first ascent we needed 17 days, now, at the age of 80 years, it took us all but 17 hours,” he rejoices, “That’s not so bad, is it?” Stefan Herbke (Author) 29

Â©Drei Zinnen Marketing/N. Span

MOUNTAINS under STARS

30 31

©Drei Zinnen Marketing/N. Span

the mountain contours at night and the sky is mostly clear, without haze; in cold temperatures, the sensors of cameras set to high ISO numbers produce lower image noise; and the winter sky is rich in brilliant stars, especially the constellation of Orion. In glacier areas we either take the cable car up, or get a lift from a snow groomer. How do you withstand the cold nights? Excellent equipment is the only thing that helps to fight the cold. Special shoes that protect from the cold, thermic overpants and a big down feather jacket are necessary to get through the cold nights without frostbite. Best not to skimp on down sleeping bags either …

Over the past five years Bernd Willinger and Norbert Span have spent over 250 nights on mountains, many in South Tyrol. Their goal was to capture, with their cameras, the rich kaleidoscope of the colours of outer space and of the twinkling stars. Their expedition produced breathtaking photographs that shed a whole new light on the mountains.

©Drei Zinnen Marketing/N. Span

ALONE UNDER A CANOPY OF STARS Under a milky way spanning an arch from the Three Peaks in the Dolomites all the way to the Cadini Group, the night sky reveals dazzling colours—even without moonlight. It’s just so easy to dream with open eyes up here.

Bernd—you and your colleague, Norbert Span, have spent approx. 250 nights on peaks and glaciers. Would you consider yourself a night owl? Yes, absolutely. My friend Norbert Span and I are no early birds. Every time a great photo opportunity comes up in the small hours, it is a major feat for us to get up and capture the scene with our cameras. For each of your trips you have to haul 30 kilos of photo and expedition equipment up the mountains, preferably in winter. How can we imagine such a climb? We mostly take the car to the chosen region and then we head on, either on foot or with our touring skis, until we reach our destination. Meticulous planning is a must and we only set off if weather conditions are excellent. The cold seasons are ideal for exploring and taking pictures of the night sky: the snow-covered peaks sharpen

ALL GOOD THINGS COME IN THREES In the eyes of Bernd and Norbert, the Three Peaks in the Dolomites are the ideal launchpad for the milky way. The green airglow stripe at the Western horizon endows the nocturnal panorama with an almost surreal dab of colour. Can you describe the feeling of being alone, or only two, in the mountains at night? If it’s the two of us, it’s pure freedom. As the last few hikers and mountaineers head down into the valley, we enjoy the silence and fabulous display of colours during sunset. This is always a very special moment. We also support each other while taking photographs and discuss possible motifs. With Norbert, I have found the perfect working partner in the mountains and we have lots of fun during our expeditions. Are you out and about on your own sometimes? Sometimes we’re alone in the mountains, due to scheduling reasons. It’s an entirely different experience, though. When you go your own ways, you experience nature much more intensively, and you may find motifs that may differ from those you come across when with another person. The nights are more tiring and the number of photos taken is usually smaller. You are on your own to take a decision about adverse weather conditions, but the feeling of being in the here and now is much stronger because of it.

LIGHTS IN THE DARKNESS The bivouac on the plateau of the Dolomiti di Sesto/Sextner Dolomiten: while one is putting the kettle on for coffee, the other is gazing at the sky. The best photos of stars and the milky way are taken in the darkness of a new moon. When, and under what conditions, can you take the best photos of the night sky? To capture the stars, you need a mostly clear sky, such as after a rainstorm, as little light pollution as possible from cities, ski lifts and street lights, a high vantage point (above 2,000m—the higher the better) and, of course, first-rate photo equipment (light-sensitive lenses and a camera with a high ISO performance). If you want to take photos of the stars and milky way, you should do this either during a new moon or before the moon rises. What technique do you use for your photography? I’ve specialized in panoramic photography. This means I take multiple pictures with a wide-angle lens. Subsequently, the single pictures are joint into a panorama. This way, I can show mountain chains, landscapes and the milky way in an overall view. EYES TO THE SKY Every time Bernd and Norbert are under the canopy of stars, they are spellbound: they spend hours and hours gazing at the dazzling colours and shapes of the night sky. Shielded by the atmosphere, they cannot be affected by cold or wind. The earthly frame is set by the Cardini Group in the Dolomites. >>

Barbara Tilli (Author) 33

NORBERT SPAN Norbert Span studied meteorology, glaciology and astronomy and has taken many international research trips to glaciers. The stars have fascinated him ever since his youth, and he has been photographing them with different cameras and telescopes.

©Drei Zinnen Marketing/N. Span

BERND WILLINGER Bernd Willinger originally trained as a chef and worked for a long time in the gastronomic sector. Since 2008, Tyrolean-born Bernd has dedicated himself to photography. He explores in depth the special subjects of spherical panorama and hyperbolic panorama (Miniature planet).

About the book Mountains under Stars The kick-off for this special friendship and photographic discovery tour happened on an early morning in January during an eclipse over the Alps. Five years and over 250 nights later, Bernd Willinger and Norbert Span are still not tired of the starry skies over the mountains. Whenever possible, they are in the Alps, alone or together, to capture the fascinating phenomena of the night sky and the majestic world of the mountains—from the peace of the golden hours to sunset with the first visible stellar constellations, to the depth of the night and the crack of dawn. With “Mountains under stars” the two Austrians carry us off into a world full of pictures bursting with glitter and shine: stars that sparkle like diamonds, the bright band of the milky way, the Andromeda galaxy or the amazing airglow over the mighty mountains and illuminated valleys. In specific panoramic photos, or what is referred to as Miniature Planets, the photographers show the firmament from a very specific angle. The readers will find themselves drawn in by the photos and entertained by the authors personal descriptions of their starry, starry nights. For those intrigued and wanting to try the same—they’ll discover many useful tips and tricks for photography in the dark.

Stars that sparkle like diamonds, the bright band of the milky way, the Andromeda galaxy or the amazing airglow over the mighty mountains and illuminated valleys.

Hard cover book with dust jacket, 144 pages with 100 coloured images Price € 29.95 [D] 30.80 [A] ISBN 978-3-95728-033-6 Date of publication 16 th March 2017

THE “ E - M O U N TA I N B I K E ” TREND: THE REGION OF THE 3 ZINNEN DOLOMITES IS RIGHT ON TRACK

A mountain bike with an electric drive? Many of the true aficionados of this sport may, at first, react with a disapproving headshake. After all, this sport is meant to make you work out and sweat, often until exhaustion. Or perhaps not? With all due respect to those passionate for cycling, we should not dismiss the advantages of the support of an electric drive. Especially when it comes to people who are not strong or fit enough to tackle certain trails, but who do not want to forgo the fun of cycling. The e-mountain bike is surely a great alternative for all those who

want to enjoy and explore nature and rougher terrains, even though they may not be the most athletic. Having said that, an increasing number of well-toned athletes also enjoy this innovative sports equipment and use its technical support. Hills, steep climbs, mountains—with a little extra drive nothing seems impossible! Only flying gives you a greater thrill … Regardless of all scepticism, e-mountain bikes are really starting to roll and the target groups just keep expanding. After all, it’s the fun factor that’s paramount. For everyone. >>

It slowly emerges: the prefix “e” for “electric” is the letter of the future. E-bikes and e-vehicles with their “e” in front, are highly trendy. With mountain bikes, however, everything is different. Representing the entire region of the Dolomites, Dobbiaco/Toblach village is set to become the hotspot of e-mountain biking.

issues to be discussed during the development of an e-mountain bike tourism strategy. The key to a successful implementation of the project is that all local players, landowners, stakeholders and tourism suppliers act in concert. As we all know only too well, it is easier to implement projects if obstacles and potential conflicts can be avoided by defining common goals and paths before getting started. For project initiators from Dobbiaco, one thing is certain: e-mountain biking will occupy an important place among future leisure and sports activities; and Dobbiaco, on behalf of the entire region, is ready to establish its place amongst the illustrious circle of mountain biking destinations.

The key players who are busy realising the vision of establishing the Hochpustertal valley as an e-mountain bike region, are already convinced of this. The main hub will be Dobbiaco, often referred to as the “Pearl of the Hochpustertal valley”. The Dobbiaco-based “ideators” count on the support of Allegra Tourismus, a Swiss specialist company, to back the implementation with the necessary zing and professionalism. The plan is to have the e-MTB professionals conduct a survey, before developing a matching concept and business plan. The conditions for the development of an e-MTB hub in the heart of the Three Peaks region seem to be ideal. Already, there are numerous routes which can be easily expanded, in the area of Dobbiaco alone, even when bearing in mind that not every mountain bike trail is ideally suited to become a e-MTB trail. This is one of the

Judith Steinmair (Author)

Where authentic farmer’s is still baked locally with traditional techniques

bread

The region of the 3 Zinnen Dolomites is famous for its high-quality, regional products: ham and cheese, organic meat and farmer’s bread, honey and jams. They are produced by family-owned and -managed companies with a long tradition. Families who have passed down the secrets of their trade over generations and are dedicated to producing the finest quality. A benefit cherished by both locals and our visitors, whether they enjoy the traditional cuisine at outlets or purchase products to prepare their own meals. Georg Weindl (Author) “We are like one of the traditional corner shops. And our customers enjoy this”. Gertraud Schmiedhofer’s store in Villabassa/Niederdorf village has very little in common with a modern supermarket. A fact that she is not unhappy about. Quite the contrary: true and honest traditions play a major role in the yellow building. The former mill, with roots dating back to the 18th century, does not only have scrupulously renovated guest rooms, but also a store which upholds ancient traditions. “We sell wholewheat flour, spelt, rye, wheat and buckwheat as well as many organic products and spices”, explains Gertraud Schmiedhofer. The customers, including numerous holidaymakers, pay great attention to buying regional products. And the demand is constantly growing. 42

www.schmiedhofer.it www.brotklee.it www.nocker.it www.lanz-beef.it www.regiohof.com www.3zinnen.it

Heritage and quality

are of growing importance The Schmiedhofer Mill is only one of numerous examples of the great number and diversity of high-quality products offered in the region of the Three Peaks in the Dolomites. Quality and origins are of particular importance when it comes to food. This is where this region demonstrates its strength. It is not merely a modern trend that the local farms and small production companies offer authentic quality products—but a commitment rooted in their century-old traditions and way of life. The Feichterhof farm in the centre of Dobbiaco/Toblach village is a good example: Bernhard Feichter has dedicated himself to biodynamic agriculture based on the philosophy of Rudolf Steiner. He grows the majority of the seeds for rye, wheat, spelt, potatoes and vegetables himself. In his mill, they turn the grain into flour which is then used to bake bread. On Tuesdays and Fridays, they bake bread in their own woodfired ovens, a specialty which has already been awarded a prize as Italy’s best organic bread. ©Drei Zinnen Marketing/Shutterstock

South Tyrolean classics

enjoy increasing popularity

South Tyrolean classics play a predominant role when it comes to high-quality, regional products: specifically, South Tyrolean Speck, a coldsmoked and subsequently air-dried ham, and Kaminwurzen, the local smoked sausages. These are also the products which are in greatest demand at the Dobbiaco village Nocker butcher shop, which prepares South Tyrolean Speck, bacon, pork belly and Kaminwurzen according to traditional recipes with carefully selected ingredients. The Lanz butcher shop is also famous for South Tyrolean classics. On his mountain farm, situated 1,500m above sea level, master butcher Bernhard Lanz produces his specialties with meat raised on surrounding farms. Naturally, his specialties—smoked chamois and deer sausages—are poles apart from intensive meat farming. The local products from the Regiohof farm in Dobbiaco are enticing in a very different manner. With its fine jams with high fruit content, fruit mustards, juices and syrups, the farm shop Hofladen für alpine Genussart celebrates Alpine delicacies. Medicinal plants and fruits can be tasted in various different forms: from schnapps distilled on site, to liqueurs which are referred to as mountain elixirs. One thing not to be missed are the local cheeses. The excellent milk from the mountain farms, in the region of the Three Peaks in the Dolomites, is an exceptional source for many products: from butter and ricotta to mountain and herb cheeses as well as the savoury Dolomitenkaiser mountain cheese. In addition to being able to purchase these specialties at the Drei Zinnen alpine dairy on the village border of Dobbiaco, you can also observe the master cheese maker preparing the dairy products and gain information in the museum about the resourcefulness of the mountain farmers in days gone by. The alpine dairy is a cooperative with 80 members and its history goes back to 1882. Currently, approximately 30,000 litres of milk are delivered and processed per day: enough for many convivial get-togethers with culinary delights. 45

Lift the curtain up on the exciting cultural kaleidoscope of the Is the Hochpustertal valley nothing but an El Dorado for sports, wellness and nature aficionados? Far from it! The region of the Three Peaks in the Dolomites boasts a vast variety of cultural highlights. Keep reading to find a few insider tips from our editorial team you’ll want to put on your to-go list for your next summer holiday.

CONTEMPLATION PATH SAN PIETRO IN MONTE/ST. PETER AM KOFEL

CHOIR FESTIVAL

THE ROMAN STYLE COLLEGIATE CHURCH AND MONASTERY MUSEUM IN SAN CANDIDO/INNICHEN

Searching for inner peace ... From the acclaimed pilgrimage Church of St. Mary in Dobbiaco/Toblach village, a contemplation path leads to the Chapel San Pietro in Monte, the most ancient religious sanctuary in the Hochpustertal valley. The seven contemplation stations along the path show biblical depictions describing the life of apostle Saint Peter. A relaxing theme path dedicated to “Prayer – Vocation – Confidence – Forgiveness – Denial – Assignment – Transfiguration“. www.toblach.info

As one of Tyrol’s most impressive sacral buildings in Roman style, the Collegiate Church is definitely worth a visit. Marvel at the Roman crucifixion group above the high altar with the statue of the crowned Christ, the crypt, the monumental fresco, which adorns the dome, or the wooden statue of Saint Candidus. The Monastery Museum located in the nearby Chapter House, the oldest house of the village, is a veritable treasure chest for all admirers of historic religious and secular art and artefacts. www.pfarrei-innichen.com

Numerous choirs from the four corners of the world and a varied music repertoire covering all styles and eras make this international music festival a real happening. The concerts will not only take place in conventional locations, such as concert halls and churches, but also in places offering exceptional backdrops—from castles to mountain pastures and lakes. Music to the ears. Balm for the soul. www.festivalpusteria.org

GUSTAV MAHLER MUSIC WEEK AND GUSTAV MAHLER’S SUMMER RESIDENCE & COMPOSING HOUSE His name is inseparably linked with the Hochpustertal valley, especially with Dobbiaco: Gustav Mahler, the great composer. Amidst the Dolomites, he was blessed by the muse and created some of his most famous oeuvres. The picturesque house in which he composed is located in Carbonin Vecchia/Altschluderbach, a tiny hamlet in the community of Dobbiaco. And for the devotees: the annual Gustav Mahler Music Week with a sophisticated concert programme, numerous conferences, talks and many other extraordinary supporting programmes elements. www.gustav-mahler.it

TOURISM MUSEUM AT THE HAUS WASSERMANN

Situated in Villabassa/Niederdorf village, the cradle of Tyrolean tourism, the Tourism Museum located at the Haus Wassermann documents the history of tourism in the Hochpustertal valley. Visitors will learn many interesting details regarding the renown and popular spa baths, the construction of the legendary Southern railway and the beginnings of alpinism in the Dolomites … and, of course, the successful Schwarzadler innkeeper Emma Hellenstainer (1817–1904), whose inn in Villabassa became known far beyond the country’s borders and a major attraction for international visitors. www.niederdorf.it

SOUTH TYROL JAZZ FESTIVAL

ADVENTUROUS BUNKER MUSEUM

Ten days of Jazz Fever ... close to 90 concerts in over 50 different locations in South Tyrol with more than 150 international musicians, ranging from world stars to young talents. During the Jazz Festival, the region becomes a stage, while jazz becomes part of the landscape. Breathtaking, creative backdrops, culinary highlights and amazing music all melt into an unrivalled festival experience. A must for every jazz adept! www.suedtiroljazzfestival.com

A one of a kind experience ... Deep down in the earth, imbedded in a cloak of 3,600m 3 concrete and steel, a museum-style parcourse, spanning past and present, awaits adventure buffs and culture vultures. The bunker in Villabassa, one of approx. 360 similar structures in South Tyrol, proposes an adventure-focused discovery tour and features different themes of South Tyrol’s history, an interactive offer as well as light, audio and art installations. www.bunkermuseum.net ©Drei Zinnen Marketing/G. Pichler

Judith Steinmair (Author) 49

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