Almanac Winter 2019/20 by Tourist Info Innichen San Candido

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Almanac 3 Zinnen Dolomites

Available free of charge at tourism associations and member companies

Your individual holidays in the Dolomites At the Apparthotel Germania you will book more than just a room – you book an exclusive world of well-being. Whether you choose a hotel room or a holiday apartment, be sure of one thing: in any case, your stay with us will remain unforgotten!

Via Dolomiti 44 Dobbiaco · Tel. +39 0474 972160 · info@apparthotel-germania.com www.apparthotel-germania.com

Christmas Market 29th Nov – 6th Jan 2020 UNDER THE BANNER OF TRADITION AND GENUINENESS

„

I don’t know anything more idyllic, THIS is the cosiest and most beautiful Christmas market indeed. The village itself and the surrounding landscapes are absolutely enchanting. People have put their heart and soul into it. Find out for yourself!

29th Nov – 1th Dec 2019 6th – 8th Dec 2019 13th – 15th Dec 2019 19th Dec – 6th Jan 2020 24th Dec 2019 25th Dec 2019

28th Mar – 13th Apr 2020 GREAT PRIZES FOR YOU! Big times for the Easter bunny while hiding loads of eggs in San Candido-Innichen! Red Easter eggs can be found – everywhere in the shop windows of all the shops and stores! Those who manage to find them all will certainly be rewarded: wellness weekends, prizes, and shopping vouchers are waiting for you!

www.sancandido.info

The biggest

10.30 am – 7 pm 10.30 am – 7 pm 10.30 am – 7 pm 10.30 am – 7 pm 10.30 am – 3 pm closed

EASTER EGG hunting of the Dolomites

©H. Wisthaler

Dear Reader, We would like to extend a warm welcome to you in the holiday region 3 Zinnen in the Dolomites! Would you like to know what is important to us? Well, above all, we naturally care about the well-being of our guests. This is why we put our heart and soul into making your holiday wishes come true! With their spectacular mountain formations and breathtaking landscapes, the Dolomites are world-renowned for being listed as a UNESCO world heritage site, for offering innumerable winter sports options, state-of-the art infrastructure, cosy well-being oases, homely gastronomic outlets, cultural variety… and much more which will hopefully ensure that your stay in the country of the Three Peaks will be marked with unforgettable experiences which, we hope, will stay with you for a long time. After all, “holidays are the oases in the desert of everyday life” (Hermann Lahm). The current edition of our popular ‘Almanac’ guest magazine is also meant to enhance your holiday and to familiarise you with our holiday region 3 Zinnen in the Dolomites and all of its facets. Have a look behind the scenes of our world and experience our traditions, visit cultural and sports highlights with us or meet our people along with the local animals and plants. Our stories are intended to provide you with exciting insights and many interesting facts about the holiday region 3 Zinnen in the Dolomites. We hope that you will enjoy the read. Our offices will, of course, be pleased to answer any questions and provide you with additional information you may require. However, above all, we would like to wish you a marvellous time in the holiday region 3 Zinnen in the Dolomites. Enjoy, take your memories back home with you and feel free to visit us again! Your Tourism Associations in the holiday region 3 Zinnen in the Dolomites 4

OUR HOUSE. YOUR HOTEL.

Sporthotel Tyrol **** | Via Drava 12 San Candido | Tel. +39 0474 913 198 | info@sporthoteltyrol.it | www.sporthoteltyrol.it

In this edition What makes winter beautiful

2019/20

The sound of christmas

3 Zinnen Dolomites ski resort

The history of San Candido/Innichen

�� 8–15

A stroll through town in pictures

Villabassa/Niederdorf

�� 28–31

�� 48–49

1,250 years San Candido/ Innichen

Get social!

Tower trumpeters of

Sense of snow Rudorf Egarter �� 16–18

�� 50–51

An anniversary

Winter sports with a clear conscience

with many highlights �� 32–34

Five mountain peaks with 110 kilometres of ski runs

Life in earlier times:

�� 19–21

… many things have changed �� 36–38

Cross-country skiing: gliding with a view

O, how joyful ...

The holiday region 3 Zinnen

Dobbiaco/Toblach

in the Dolomites

Christmas market

�� 22–23

�� 40–42

150 anniversary of the Große Zinne mountain

The Prags Christmas Wonderland

Alpine Milestones

at Alpe Pragas & Lechnerhof

�� 24–27

�� 44–47

WHAT MAKES BEAUTIFUL

150 th anniversary of the Große Zinne mountain 19–21

O, how joyful ... “Three Peaks style Christmas” 1 st e d i t i o n o f t h e D o b b i a c o / To b l a c h C h r i s t m a s m a r k e t

40–42

THE PRAGS CHRISTMAS WONDERLAND 8–14

44–47

CREDITS Our partner:

Editor: Tourism Associations in the holiday region 3 Zinnen in the Dolomites Editor in charge: Judith Steinmair Grafics und Layout: Werbeagentur Rotwild (Brixen) – www.rotwild.it Printing: Südtirol Druck Editorial office & coordination: Judith Steinmair Translations: porta germanica Cover: Harald Wisthaler All information is subject to change

ÂŠM. Kottersteger

Â©M. Kottersteger

WHAT MAKES BEAUTIFUL 8

We can, of course, express the quality of a skiing region in numbers. However, it is far more appealing to express it through emotions and stories. The 3 Zinnen Dolomites ski resort is full of sensation and adventures. With its unusual amount of different activities and facets, there is plenty of room for highly individual moments of delight.

©M. Kottersteger

Travelling in the holiday region 3 Zinnen in the Dolomites has its very own quality. In this northeastern part of South Tyrol you may, of course, travel by car, but also by train, which is very comfortable and at the same time normal. Holidaymakers (and locals alike) may even travel on their downhill or cross-country skis. And this is a far more interesting way of travelling—it is not only healthier and more economic, but also more exciting and intense.

How does the alpine skiing work? It’s all very simple. The 3 Zinnen Dolomites ski resort offers 110 kilometres of ski runs, ranging from very easy wide runs for beginners and pleasure seekers, to sensationally steep slopes, including South Tyrol’s steepest slope at the Rotwand mountain. The Giro delle Cime or Peaks Tour is the very highlight of them all. A 34-kilometre journey on ski runs, covering a cumulative elevation gain of 5,600 metres from the Vierschach via the Helm, over to the Rotwand mountains with a downhill section to the Kreuzberg mountain pass, onto Bagni di Valgrande in the Province of Belluno; from there you can take the ski bus to the magnificent ski runs in Padola. The way back is similar. 10

©M. Kottersteger

ÂŠM. Kottersteger

©M. Kottersteger

Cross-country skiing enthusiasts can also travel here. This is not surprising with a total of 200 cross-country tracks, including FIS race tracks around the Nordic Arena in the village of Dobbiaco/Toblach, with panoramic cross-country tracks at a height of 2,000 metres and romantic tours through the valleys of Höhlensteintal or Fischleintal. There are half-day or full-day tours on cross-country skis from Villabassa/Niederdorf to Dobbiaco, San Candido/Innichen and into the Fischleintal valley in the direction of the Drei Zinnen mountains or vice versa, or from San Candido to ”Waidach“ (shortly before St. Veit/Prags). These are only a few examples of the fascinating tours that the region offers. They can be combined, extended or shortened at will, since the majority of the cross-country tracks are close to regular bus service stations. The region is also part of Dolomiti Nordicski. This means that the pass for the cross-country tracks is valid for Europe’s largest network of cross-country skiing tracks, with 1,300 metres of tracks across the Dolomites. 12

©M. Kottersteger

Cross-country skiing is one way to discover the enchanting winter wonderland. But it is not the only one. Consider a winter hiking tour , on snow-cleared roads, past proud Dolomite mountain peaks, or a snowshoe tour in remote valleys, such as the Rienztal, or the Fischleintal, to the famous Dreizinnen-Hütte refuge featuring what could most probably be described as the most spectacular panoramic view of the Dolomites. Both are established half-day or full-day excursions. The tours along the Pragser Wildsee lake or to the 360° panorama view of the Plätzwiese on the way to the peak of the Strudelkopf mountain may be shorter, but definitely no less impressive. There are attractive options on less known peaks for skiing tours , such as the Sextner Stein, Pfannhorn, Hochebenkopf as well as the Großer and Kleiner Jaufen.

ÂŠH. Wisthaler

The holiday region 3 Zinnen in the Dolomites is also full of history and tradition. Legendary mountaineers call this home and there are plenty of ancient customs. The winter is obviously also a time to indulge in traditional activities such as sledding or curling , particularly now that people are looking for and are, once again, appreciating those qualities of the mountain areas that were popular in our past. A sledding classic is the track from the mountain station of the Rotwand mountain down to the village of Bagni di Moso/Bad Moos. There are also beautiful sledding tracks at Haunold and in the Innerfeldtal valley. The ice skating rinks in the villages of Sesto/Sexten, Dobbiaco and Villabassa are definitely more comfortable and yet more sporty. Guests wishing to take a look at the world from an entirely different perspective may hop on a balloon to take a look at the Three Peaks (Drei Zinnen) mountain range from aboveâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;an unforgettable experience, by all means. Georg Weindl (Author)

ÂŠM. Kottersteger

Rudolf Egarter's

sense of

Preparing slopes without artificial snow? "This is totally unthinkable nowadays," says Rudolf Egarter. The technical director of the 3 Zinnen Dolomites ski resort has witnessed the development from the first snow cannon to the most modern snowmaking system in Northern Italy.

It is the year 1981. Rudolf Egarter is sitting in the small wooden hut at the end of the Rotwand lift and jumps out when, once again, skiers have a hard time with the T-bar lift. Actually, Egarter is a trained painter. The time at the lift should be a temporary solution in the winter months, nothing more. When the 57-year-old with the bright blue eyes tells of his first year as an employee of the ski resort currently known as the 3 Zinnen Dolomites ski resort, he has to laugh to himself. Because he is still there. Circulating machinist, operations manager, technical manager and, finally, technical director: a career that could be depicted as out of a picture book. One thing stays the same: the focus is always on the snowâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;and Rudolf Egarter's sense of it.

ÂŠC. Tschurtschenthaler

â&#x20AC;&#x153;

The slopes are well-prepared and snowed in early, which is a matter of course for skiers today. "Should there ever be a little pebble on the slopes, then people will not bring it to us without reproach," says Egarter. In 1981, stones on the slopes were an everyday occurrence. However, the first snow cannon, which the ski resort treated itself to on the occasion of the Olympic Games of the Ski Instructors, was special and with its help the Bruggerlift was covered in snow. Was there a workshop on handling the cannon? Egarter waves this off with a smile. Only provided with some information about the required water pressure, it was up to him and the other employees to learn from experience. Over time, a few more small snowmaking systems were added, which were built in busy areas.

We have partially distributed the snow on the slopes with a basket on the wooden sled.â&#x20AC;?

Being snow makers meant mostly walking (a snowmobile was not available to all at that time) and going up to the snow cannon with a flashlight to check if everything was working. It meant laying up to 400 metres of cable to a snow cannon, bearing in mind that inside these cables no ice was allowed to form. And it also meant that some canons had to be relocated every three or four hours during the night, in order to snow down the slopes in bad winters and to be able to maintain the operation reasonably well. "We have partially distributed the snow on the slopes with a basket on the wooden sled." With good luck and great effort, quite a few winter seasons are rescued after too little snowfall. In 1994, for the first time, the descent from the Rotwand mountain in Sesto/ Sexten was artificially covered in snow. "Without a doubt, the Christmas business would otherwise have failed."

ÂŠM. Kottersteger

Today, the 3 Zinnen Dolomites ski resort on the Rotwand mountain has the most modern snowmaking system in northern Italy. A cannon is placed every 60 to 100 meters, the main connection between the peaks of Versiaco/Vierschach and Helm as well as Stiergarten and Rotwand is completely covered by snow within 40 hours. It works so fast that after being put into operation last winter, the ski run preparers had a hard time distributing the masses of snow. With nearly 400 canons it means that the ski resort is now snowsure. But the best equipment is useless if the temperatures do not play along. The secret of good snow depends mainly on the luck of the weather. And of course the skills of the snow makers. "It is important not to snow too wet." In technical snowmaking, the wet bulb temperature, i.e. the relationship between air temperature and relative humidity, determines when to start.

Egarter studies the weather report several times a day, as soon as the temperatures slowly drop. On his mobile phone and tablet, he monitors what "his" snow cannons are doing out there in real time. Four employees are busy the whole year to maintain the many snow cannons of the ski area. And when the snow production starts, there are another seven snow makers traveling from cannon to cannon with their snowmobiles night after night. And then there are the snowcat drivers, who prepare the slopes, and the operations manager, who has to approve each runway individually in the morning. But that is another science on its own.

â&#x20AC;&#x153;

When I get up in the morning, I'm just waiting for work to finally startâ&#x20AC;?

When Rudolf Egarter talks about snow, it can really warm your heart.

Verena Duregger (Author) 18

2 01 9

ENTAL

M ENVIRON

EMENT MANAG L SEA

Winter sports with a clear conscience Five mountain peaks with 110 kilometres of ski runs. In the 3 Zinnen Dolomites ski resort, great efforts are undertaken to ensure perfect ski runs, but also to protect the environment. Numerous measures are implemented to reduce electricity, water, and fuel consumption and to optimise waste management. For their good results, the region was awarded the environmental management seal in 2019.

ÂŠM. Kottersteger

It is the sum of numerous, partly inconspicuous, but effective measures. For many years, the 3 Zinnen Dolomites ski resort has been working consistently on furthering the environmental management and sustainability of the entire operation. And there are already a number of success stories to tell. This includes the ISO certification for electricity generated by hydropower in accordance with the ISO 50001 energy management system. The hydropower-based generation of electricity has a long tradition in these parts: for generations many companies have generated their electricity naturally by using the nearby mountain brooks. And for the ski resort the procurement of what is referred to as green electricity is a priority. But this is not the only achievement. The consumption of electricity as such is also an important issue.

ÂŠM. Kottersteger

„With the ISO certification, we collected data on the consumption of electricity, i.e. where which amount of electricity is consumed and which conclusions can be drawn from this“ explains Rudl Egarter, the technical director of the ski resort. One consequence is e.g. that the speed of the lifts should be adjusted based on passenger frequency. If there are many people, the lifts go faster, if less people are skiing, the operational speed is reduced. In a ski area with 33 lifts this helps to significantly lower the electricity consumption. Another noteworthy energy consuming factor is the preparation of the ski runs. 15 to 20 PistenBully snow groomers are operational in the area. For them a modern fleet management system documenting the consumption of diesel fuel in detail is used. This helps to both efficiently optimise deployment of the vehicles and driving style during preparation of the ski runs. Naturally, in addition to the preparation of ski runs, the artificial snowmaking technology is another key priority in this context. “In the past, this was managed mostly based on gut feeling”, explains Rudl Egarter. After the certification, there are now many more facts available which help to work far more efficiently. Artificial snowing of the ski runs can now be done far more precisely. Measuring is done with a wet-bulb, which assesses the relationship between temperature and air humidity. “We no longer go all the way to the limit as in the past, but rather base our decisions

on the quality of the snow”, adds Rudl Egarter. The drier it is, the better the result of the snowmaking process. To start snowing of the ski runs at -2°C often produces relatively mediocre results with plenty of slushy snow and high energy costs. The snowing of the ski runs is now done with great precision, often only for short periods of time during the night to benefit from the off-peak electricity conditions. The distribution of the additional snow is also organised differently. We only produce few snow hills which are then distributed by the snow groomers. This also saves operating hours. During the ISO certification process, the water pipes of the snowmaking system were also checked to avoid potential water loss. The waste management was reorganised and since then, six to seven different waste categories are separated. The entire set of measures helps the ski resort to reduce costs while promoting sustainability and improving the snow quality. At the beginning of 2019, the 3 Zinnen Dolomites ski area was awarded the environmental management seal.

Georg Weindl (Author)

CROSS-COUNTRY SKIING: GLIDING WITH A view Guests looking for endless cross-country tracks and an exceptional panorama will surely enjoy the holiday region 3 Zinnen in the Dolomites. One of the highlights of a cross-country skiing winter is the Pustertal Valley Ski Marathon, which will feature a number of innovations. Irrespective of the technical preferences, i.e. the conventional or skating technique, the Alta Pusteria/Hochpustertal valley is a true winter paradise for any cross-country skier. Between the villages of Braies/Prags, Villabassa/Niederdorf, Dobbiaco/Toblach, San Candido/Innichen and Sesto/Sexten, 200 kilometres of wholly interlinked cross-country tracks are prepared each season. Despite the extensive choices, cross-country aficionados clearly have distinct favourites. “The cross-country trails from Dobbiaco to the Val di Landro/Höhlensteintal valley and from Sesto into the Val Fiscalina/ Fischleintal valley are the most popular,” explains Kathrin Tschurtschenthaler from the Dobbiaco Tourism Association. “This is were you are very close to the Dolomites.” Especially the track leading into the Höhlensteintal fascinates the guests. It also hosts one of Italy’s most traditional Cross Country Ski fun runs from Dobbiaco to Cortina, as well as the ‘Tour de Ski’ Cross-Country World Cup. “This tour is simply wonderful to do,” says Kathrin Tschurtschenthaler with enthusiasm, “It follows a former railway track and climbs constantly all the way to the Im Gemärk pass, and yet, it is never too steep.” The fascinating thing is that the landscape changes continually and there is one highlight after the 22

other: the track takes you from the Nordic Arena to the Lake of Dobbiaco/Toblach, at the viewpoint of the Three Peaks, where you have a spectacular view over the mountains that lent their name to the region, at the Lake of Landro/Dürrensee the mighty Cristallo ridge comes into view and at the Passo Cimabanche/Gemärk pass, the highest point (1,529 metres) of the tour, there are numerous tempting alpine inns along the track. What is particularly pleasant about this 17-kilometre track is the liberty to ski for as long as one feels like. Some prefer to take the bus back to Dobbiaco or they choose the most beautiful parts of the tour between the bus stops, while others ski back the entire route or glide along all the way to Cortina d’Ampezzo. ©H. Wisthaler

One of the highlights of the cross-country skiing winter is the Pustertaler Skimarathon (Pustertal Valley Ski Marathon), which debuted in San Candido in 1976. Apparently, the competition was ‘invented’ in a bar over a glass of wine, this is at least how the story goes. Jointly, its creators had pondered that one should “do something revolving around cross-country skiing in winter”. At the beginning the competition covered a 60-kilometre course in a conventional format, with the starting point in San Candido; later on, a skating technique race was added and the competition in both styles happened simultaneously. A few years ago, the organisers went back to the long distance formula, with the starting point in Braies. Since then, the Pustertal Valley Ski Marathon has been taking place in the conventional style only. With the 44 th edition of this signature race, which will take place on 11 th January 2020, a new course will be tested. “For the first time, we will start in Sesto,” explains Gerti Taschler, President of the Sport O.K. Toblach, the new path of the Pustertal Valley Ski Marathon, “and the finish line will be in the centre of Villabassa. There is a new feature: a kind of mountain race for up to 200 people, who will continue from the viewpoint of the Three Peaks to reach the finishing line at the Prato Piazza/ Plätzwiese high plateau—from Sesto this covers a total of 32 kilometres and a cumulative elevation gain of 1,300 metres. And there is also a kind of

a family route with the starting point in Dobbiaco and the finishing line in Villabassa.” There are also innovations in the cross-country skiing network of the Alta Pusteria/Hochpustertal valley. In Villabassa, the short circuit of the ”Hirbenfeldloipe“ cross-country trail allows the local access to the sunny cross-country track, and in Dobbiaco they are working on improving track grooming with artificial snow. “In the future, we would like to open our first cross-country tracks in Dobbiaco on 8 th December,” explains Kathrin Tschurtschenthaler. “And we are also planning to improve the section from the Nordic Center to the village centre of Dobbiaco. It is our aim to ensure that the guests can reach the cross-country tracks from all accommodation facilities quickly and that they can ski in the direction of the Val di Landro without having to cross over.” Stefan Herbke (Author) © Pustertaler Skimarathon

ÂŠG. Kamelger

150 th anniversary of the Große Zinne mountain Alpine Milestones The summer of 2019 was marked by the first ever ascent of the Große Zinne mountain 150 years ago. The anniversary celebrations were extensive and they shall also be remembered for a long time due to the debut of Reinhold Messner’s documentary film ‘Die Große Zinne’. Stefan Herbke (Author)

1869 was the year of Paul Grohmann. On 18 th July, the Viennese climber succeeded in the first ascension of the Tre Scarperi/Dreischusterspitze mountain, one of the most striking peaks of the Sesto/Sextner Dolomites range, accompanied by his favourite mountain guide Peter Salcher from Kärnten and the stone mason, Franz Innerkofler, from Sesto/Sexten. Soon after, this rope team was the first to reach the peak of the Langkofel mountain and on 21 st August they finally made Alpine history: Along what is nowadays referred to as the standard route, they reached the pinnacle of the Große Zinne mountain and, thus, the highest elevation of the Three Peaks (Drei Zinnen) mountain range, which the entire region is currently named after.

An alpine milestone, which was duly celebrated in the Alta Pusteria/Hochpustertal valley 150 years later. One of the highlights of the calendar of events was the debut of the film ‘Die Große Zinne’ on 21 st August 2019 in the ice rink in the village of Dobbiaco/Toblach. In addition to the State Governor, Dr. Arno Kompatscher, and the actors, there was also mountaineering legend Reinhold Messner, who had directed the 50-minute documentary film. The film is not only a monument to the first ascenders of the Große Zinne mountain, but also to other mountaineers, such as Hans Dülfer, Emilio Comici, Dieter Hasse, Lothar Brandler >> 25

and Alexander Huber, who left a mark on this exceptional mountain range with their spectacular routes. For Messner, the film was an affair of the heart, because after all “there is no other place where one can describe the history of alpine climbing from its beginning to the present better than with the Große Zinne mountain”. The film premiere was a worthy conclusion to a day, which had kicked off on a highly emotional note. In honour of the first ascenders, a delegation from Sesto and Dobbiaco set off in memory of this historic alpine feat 150 years after the event. From the Auronzohütte refuge they first went to the Alpinikapelle chapel (‘Cappella degli Alpini’), which is close to the bronze bust of Paul Grohmann. At the monument, which was erected for the 100 th anniversary and is located near the access point to the Große Zinne, Guido Bocher (mayor of Dobbiaco), Thomas Summerer (deputy mayor of Sesto) and Stefano Muzzi (President of CAI Auronzo) lay down a wreath in honour of Paul Grohmann. Afterwards, accompanied by an Alpine horn player, they continued to the Rif. Locatelli/ Dreizinnenhütte refuge which affords one of the best views of this mountain troika with its imposing rock faces. After a devotion and musical accompaniment by the “Sextener Bergsteigermusik” band, a time capsule was blessed there. A bronze container (artwork by Studio C&C Paolo Albertelli and Mariagrazia Abbaldo from Turin), which was faithfully modelled on a stone which used to lie there— the original stone is kept in the Naturparkhaus Drei Zinnen museum in Dobbiaco—contains the thoughts of children from the elementary schools in Dobbiaco and Sesto regarding the future of the Drei Zinnen mountain range and the UNESCO world heritage site of the Dolomites. This time capsule shall only be opened again on 21 st August 2069, during the 200-year celebrations of the Große Zinne. Obviously, nobody knows today what the future will bring, but in 50 years

©H. Oberhofer

time we will know if the hopes and wishes of the children became true. This much can be revealed now: they all revolve around the conservation of the mountainscape in its current form, excluding any further infrastructural development. One of the most unusual activities in connection with the anniversary was the idea of bringing the summit registers down into the valley and making them accessible to the general public by means of an art installation. It involved the engraving of notes—made after the first ascensions of the Große and Kleine Zinne and the Zwölferkofel mountains—on metal cubes which were stacked in elements made of local stone pine plywood. The installation was planned by the architect Ulla Hell, who had also taken into consideration their future use. These individual elements served to build benches which were then distributed throughout the community of Sesto or could be purchased by those interested—this way, we can all continue to experience these special individual summit moments.

©C. Boccuzzi-Comini

©G. Kamelger

The history of San Candido/ Innichen A stroll through town in pictures

Michael Wachtler (Author)

ÂŠDolomythos Museum

©Dolomythos Museum

Like many towns in the Dolomites, San Candido has undergone numerous changes in the last 150 years. In many respects, it is even hard to recognise. The Dolomythos Museum has now organised a special exhibition to demonstrate San Candido’s significance for the history of the Dolomites. To achieve this, they selected images from several photos, picture postcards and documentary films—many of which had never been published before—and had a stronger symbolic character than others. They show the changes that have taken place in this village over time. This includes both disasters, such as floods and wars, and people’s visions to create small landmarks in world history. >>

San Candido/Innichen before 1900

©Dolomythos Museum

The pharmacist and photographer Josef Gugler (1824–1892) took this early photograph of San Candido (around 1885). ©Dolomythos Museum

©Dolomythos Museum

San Candido/Innichen – Gerasch The southern view of San Candido is a chromolithography created by the Viennese artist, August Gerasch (1822–1908), in 1887. This technique involves a time-consuming and expensive process.

San Candido/Innichen – Wildbad This colour picture postcard, which was produced on the basis of a painting by an unknown artist, was sent in 1913, shortly before the start of World War I. It shows the ample and glamorous thermal bath facilities of the San Candido ‘Wildbad’. You see how the thermal baths were rebuilt lavishly into an extensive resort-style hotel, which was now able to accommodate 230 guests in 140 rooms. ©Dolomythos Museum

©Dolomythos Museum

Hotel Orso Grigio/Grauer Bär

Versciaco/Vierschach Versciaco around the year 1908: Life still has a contemplative pace and was dominated by agriculture. 30

The Hotel Orso Grigio around the year 1900: a neat terrace with an open air seating area was just as much a must as the splendid interior design. In the past, just like today, the owners try to attract their guests with exciting, decorative elements, such as an ancient knight’s armour. Back then, it was—as it still is—a symbiosis of modern and traditional elements.

©Dolomythos Museum

World War destruction

Villa Ompteda The German poet and novelist, Georg Freiherr von Ompteda (1863-1931), built the grand Villa Ompteda at the entrance to the village of San Candido. At first, Ompteda chose the career of an officer, however, after falling off a horse, he was no longer fit to serve in the military. After this incident he lived as a freelance writer in Berlin, Dresden, Merano/Meran and Munich. The ‘Villa Ompteda’ or ‘Klammschlößl’ (small castle of the gorge), was later owned by Count Aquarone, who transformed it into a hunting lodge (view dating back to approx. 1903).

The shelling of San Candido in July 1916: Over 30 houses were destroyed or badly damaged. Four people were killed. This view shows the extent of destruction caused in the centre of San Candido by incendiary grenades and explosive bombs.

©Dolomythos Museum

Theater Cafè ©Dolomythos Museum

The ambiance of the ‘Kaffee-Salon Eisendle-Fuchs’ café has survived in the overall structure of the current ‘Theater Cafè’.

©Dolomythos Museum

Monte Baranci/Haunold chairlift New times have come. The magic words are newly prepared ski runs and lifts. In 1956, a single-seater chairlift is built on the Monte Baranci—a technical marvel. The pioneers were Franz Ortner (Parkhotel Sonnenparadies), Josef Kühebacher (Weißes Rössl), Karl Wachtler (Hotel Post) and Alfredo Benincasa (Orso Grigio/Grauer Bär). They were all hotel owners.

Collegiate Church A southern view of the Collegiate Church with the original square in front of it. The house to the left was demolished, while the building hosting the current tourism association still exists in its original version (around the year 1900). 31

1,250 years San Candido/ Innichen

©M. Kottersteger

An anniversary with many highlights

©A. Huber

One thing is sure: even in a small place rich in history, like ours, 1,250 years are an impressive number for the official foundation of a town. And this is the exact number of years that have gone by since, in the long bygone year of 769, Tassilo III, Duke of Bavaria, transferred the area of Innichen (India), commonly known as Frostfeld (Campogelau or ‘Frost Field’ in English) to Abbot Atto in Scharnitz so that he could establish a monastery for the Christianisation of the Slavs. This donation marked the beginning of today’s popular market town in the heart of the holiday region 3 Zinnen in the Dolomites; and the population of San Candido as well as numerous associations and institutions have breathed life into the jubilee year with a very colourful mix of events and activities.

©M. Kottersteger

Musical performances, literary effusions, theatrical re-enactments, historical conferences, art projects and a wide variety of exhibitions were just as much a part of the calendar of events of this special year, as animated parties and festivals, an anniversary calendar and Festschrift or a historic trail. The many lovingly planned and consistently well-attended events provided South Tyrol’s oldest community with due honour and it shall be remembered for a long time both by the inhabitants of San Candido and its visitors. On 31 st of December in the Collegiate Church of San Candido, the conclusion of an inspiring and successful jubilee year will be solemnly celebrated with a thanksgiving service. Founded in the 1970s by Provost Hans Huber, this annual thanksgiving service—accompanied by an orchestral mass performed by the Collegiate Church Choir—has become a popular tradition in this market town in the holiday region 3 Zinnen in the Dolomites and thus a beautiful way to end the anniversary with devotion. Judith Steinmair (Author)

©A. Huber

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ÂŠDolomythos Museum

Life in earlier times:

â&#x20AC;Ś many things have changed Dawn is approaching, however, the sun has not yet risen. Surrounded by deep snow, there stands a solitary home. In the room it is still almost completely dark, only the embers give off a glow which illuminates it; and in their shimmer one can barely discern the people who are gathered: an elderly woman, a few adults and a few very small children, including a newborn baby. A dog sticks its nose through the gap in the partially-closed front door, through which the smoke, which fills the room, is supposed to escape. The air inside is stifling, but warm. 36

Outside there is plenty of snow. Still, the dog wants to go outside to its owner who left long ago to milk the cows in the stables. This work is not subject to seasons, it repeats itself throughout summer and winter, irrespective of whether there is snow or sunshine. The large German shepherd dog is happily wagging its tail, once it has reached its destination near the house; it mingles with the other animals: a few cows, goats and chickens. It does not cause any fear, as the animals know each other. Meanwhile the sun has come up and one can clearly see the interior of the small farm. The lock is simple, the front door is heavy and there is a draft everywhere. The minute windows are supposed to protect the inside from cold in the winter and heat in the summer. However, this also means that the smoke from the hearth, where there is almost constantly a fire burning to heat the house and prepare food, has hardly any route to escape. The black, dense smoke has already formed a crust on the ceiling and is so much part of life, that no one notices it anymore.

The dog follows its owner, runs into the house, shakes the melted snowflakes off its coat and makes a child laugh. The furniture is limited to the essentials: a table, a bench, many modest, simple, but clean and shiny cooking pots and utensils are hanging along the walls. On the one sideâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;a little apartâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;there is a credenza and a chest containing an old, long-lost dowry. On the walls there is a wooden bread frame and next to the hearth there are neatly, respectfully stacked firewood logs. The house has two rooms with mattresses made from corn leaves and horsehair pillows, which need to be shaken up every morning to distribute the filling evenly in the coarse linen cover, thus, ensuring a regenerating sleep. In each room there is a bed and a chest for Sunday clothing along with a larger bowl of water for the daily ablutions.

ÂŠDolomythos Museum

If the water remains in the water bowls during cold winter nights, it often freezes before morning. To use it, one has to first break a thin layer of ice. The chamber pot, however, is placed under the bed for use, if required.

telling—and thus passing on—family stories, legends and tales from former times, such as the saga of the local giant, Riese Haunold, who is supposed to still haunt the mountain named after him.

Compared to the average, this is a small family. The households often consist of 10, sometimes even 30 people: parents and their children, women who have been married, grandchildren and almost always single or—due to the high mortality rates—widowed aunts and uncles. The family forms a world of its own and is relatively self-sufficient.

Once the snow has melted and the first grass sprouts from the earth, the cattle are driven up to the alpine pastures for grazing; between June and July, when the grass is rich and strong, the ‘Mahd’ begins. Both adults and the younger generations tirelessly participate in this activity: From morning to evening, the men mow with their well-sharpened scythes, while the women and children scrape together the mown grass until the sun sets. With a pitchfork, the symbol of peasantry, they form haystacks, allowing the grass to dry in the sun.

People live on agriculture and breeding livestock, they cultivate wheat and potatoes, produce cheese from cow’s and goat’s milk, barter eggs for other food items, tobacco or other products. There is meat, but it is too precious to eat, therefore it is sold to make as much money as possible. Alternatively, people eat poultry, but even poultry consumption is very restricted. The winter months serve to prepare life in spring, with its new harvests and long hours of sunshine. The focus lies on activities pursued from home, which do not have to be done outside or at least far from the snow-covered fields, such as the spinning of wool or sewing of clothes, dowry items and Sunday clothing. People spend their time 38

In this world of bells, sun and snow, time flows like a wild stream through the forests and through the fields. There is no rest, life continues inexorably, with its harsh, blessed, sad and happy moments and determines the environment of our farms, which still today are a tradition and a reminder of former times. Martina Merola (Author)

Fam. Ortner Via al Ponte dei Corrieri, 1 I - 39038 San Candido Tel. +39 0474 913 588 www.villastefania.com info@villastefania.com

ÂŠH. Wisthaler

O, how joyful ... “Three Peaks style Christmas” 1 st e d i t i o n o f t h e D o b b i a c o / To b l a c h C h r i s t m a s m a r k e t There is no doubt: Christmas markets are highly popular. In many places they sprout like mushrooms from the earth during the Advent period and attract people from near and far with mulled wine, a multitude of nibbles, imaginative gifts and heart-warming events providing the right ambience. For the first time, Dobbiaco will have its own Christmas market. With its high-quality concept, it wants to stand out from the others nearby … The tradition of the Christmas market can be traced back to a long history. As early as the 14 th century, people who enjoy admiring or buying goods have been strolling along the stands with their different offerings. The idea of the Christmas market originated in Germany with the ‘Christkindlmarkt’ and has subsequently conquered people’s hearts around the world. The locations may be very different, however, the warm and cosy ambiance remains the crucial ingredient which lends its distinct flavour to a Christmas market. A winter landscape, idyllic squares and a culture steeped in its traditions are e.g. key prerequisites to make a Christmas market attractive.

Situated in the heart of the holiday region 3 Zinnen in the Dolomites, Dobbiaco therefore has ideal characteristics to offer visitors a harmonious 360° Christmas experience. And even in the preparatory phase, Dobbiaco is truly in a Christmas market fever, because the Christmas atmosphere should be palpable throughout the village. According to the organisers, it may therefore be a great idea for visitors to include a romantic ride on a horse-drawn carriage through the village … However, the Christmas market itself will be located on the central village square. And the appearance of the Dobbiaco Christmas market is supposed to be an eye-catcher. The market visitors will not encounter the typical Christmas market stands, but huts which were modelled based on the façade of Dobbiaco’s Grand Hotel. With its Art déco and turn of the 20 th century style, the entire appearance differs considerably from that of the surrounding Christmas markets. The heart of the market—surrounded by the various stands—is the large pavilion, which, in addition to seating, serves as a venue for a variety of activities and events. Apart from the aesthetics, the organisers of the Dobbiaco Christmas market rely on the >>

success of a very colourful and appealing programme for both young and old and for locals and visitors alike. The Christmas pavilion, designed with love and care, shall not only host a theatre workshop and performance, but also joint activities focusing on designing Christmas decorations or baking bread. In addition, concerts by choirs and bands, also in cooperation with the Dobbiaco Grand Hotel, will ensure good entertainment. And a nostalgic merry-go-round will certainly produce brightly sparkling children’s eyes. Another point that the organisers of the Dobbiaco Christmas market attach great importance to is the culinary range offered. All those culinary delights based on South Tyrolean cuisine and, of course, elements reflecting the Christmas tradition, will be made entirely from regional produce: barley soup, goulash soup, apple strudel, Three Peaks gingerbread, mulled wine—to name only a few of the tempting delights which will be prepared and served at the different booths of the culinary market; after all, this is the prevalent theme of the Dobbiaco market.

©H. Wisthaler

Tip: During the Advent period, the renowned Krampus parade on Saturday (7 th December) is once again one of the special highlights. On the occasion of the country’s biggest and oldest Krampus parade you will be able to admire around 400 masks and costumes. As frightening as these creepy cronies may seem, there is no reason to be afraid. Still, a good set of nerves is required due to the infernal noise those Krampusses produce. And for those who prefer a quieter pace and atmosphere: rest assured, there are definitely ‘Krampus-free’ zones too! Judith Steinmair (Author)

Opening hours: From 29 th November to 1 st December 2019 From 6 th to 8 th December 2019 From 13 th to 15 th December 2019 From 20 th December 2019 to 6 th January 2020 every day from 11:00 am to 08:00 pm Exceptions: On 24 th December: 11:00 am to 02:00 pm On 25 th December: closed On 1 st January: 12:00 pm to 08:00 pm

ÂŠShutterstock

©Alpe Pragas

THE PRAGS CHRISTMAS WONDERLAND A musical Christmas journey Who claims that they don’t exist: the gift bringer Christkind, Father Christmas, the gift bringing sorceress Befana, Ded Moroz, Santa Claus and all the other Christmas protagonists of this world? It would be as if we claimed that there are no elves, trolls, gnomes or goblins …

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In the Pragser Tal valley we are taught to know better, because during the Advent period, the Christmas magic comes alive in the idyllic region 3 Zinnen in the Dolomites and invites you to dream. Because on the company premises of the renowned Prags Genuss-Manufaktur with its culinary delights, fruit specialist Alpe Pragas and cheese dairy Lechnerhof the visitors will experience an enchanting little Christmas world, a Christmas Wonderland. And as the name suggests, there are many things to experience and to marvel at, for both children and adults, because, after all, Christmas is the celebration of love and of family. Traditional culinary delights, such as freshly baked bread from a wood-burning oven, Christmas cookies, mulled wine and punch as well as cheese products and natural fruit specialities of the hosting crafts workshops will no doubt sweeten your stay in the Christmas Wonderland. If you are looking for gifts, let the regional handcrafted products inspire you! Would you fancy a romantic ride in a horse-drawn carriage? This is also possible and for the little ones a visit of the Lechnerhof stables with the various animals is a must. Of course, there will be a suitable musical background, because what would Christmas be without its songs?

ÂŠAlpe Pragas

©Alpe Pragas

Speaking of Christmas songs: we highly recommend that every visitor fondly enjoys the Christmas Wonderworld performances. Accompanied by the keepers of the magical forest, the audience embarks on a musical Christmas journey through various countries of the globe. In the different stations in the forest and in the glass tower, the visitors will encounter the traditional Christmas protagonists of the respective country. For example, while the South Tyroleans look forward to the Christkind, the other parts of Italy wait for the sorceress Befana, while children in the USA wait for Santa Claus and the Russian children for Ded Moroz. At this point we won’t reveal, which of the popular Christmas heroes will eventually appear at the different stations, because, after all, what makes Christmas so exciting are all those small surprises … and we wouldn’t want to spoil these for the spectators. This entertaining, enchanting journey will be accompanied by music presented by choirs obviously matching the respective countries. The well-known and lesser known melodies promise magical encounters – and you’re more than welcome to sing along. And who knows? Perhaps someone will see an angel on a sledge dashing down a snow-covered hill.

Because everything is possible at Christmas time, if you just firmly believe in it … Judith Steinmair (Author)

©Alpe Pragas

Dates for visits to the Christmas Wonderland: Saturday, 30 th November & Sunday, 1 st December 2019 Friday, 6 th December, Saturday, 7 th December & Sunday, 8 th December 2019 Saturday, 14 th December & Sunday, 15 th December 2019 Saturday, 21 st December & Sunday, 22 nd December 2019 Respectively between 10:00 am and 06:00 pm

©Lechnerhof

Event dates (musical Christmas journey): Sunday, 1 st December & Saturday, 7 th December 2019 Sunday, 15 th December & Saturday, 21 st December 2019 Times: 11:00 am, 12:00 pm, 02:00 pm, 03:00 pm, 04:00 pm, 05:00 pm Alpe Pragas – Braies di Fuori 38 Ausserprags I-39030 Braies-Prags | Dolomiti-Dolomiten | Sudtirolo-Südtirol | Italy Tel. +39 0474 749 400 – info@alpepragas.com www.alpepragas.com Lechnerhof – Lechnerhof 37 I-39030 Braies-Prags | Dolomiti-Dolomiten | Sudtirolo-Südtirol | Italy Tel. +39 0474 748 652 – info@lechnerhof.bz.it www.lechnerhof.bz.it Dobbiaco Toblach

©Lechnerhof

Pragser Wildsee lake

BRAIES PRAGS

Turn right 600 m after entering the Pragsertal valley, then follow the road for approx. 400 m.

Cheese dairy Cycling trail

Villabassa Niederdorf SS49

Monguelfo Welsberg

Brunico Bruneck

©R. Burger

Christmas would not be Christmas in Villabassa/Niederdorf, without the traditional trumpet calls from the tower. Every year, the village community gathers after the Christmas Mass to listen to the contemplative sounds of the trumpeters in the tower and to feel the magic of the Holy Night. ©R. Burger

©R. Burger

Christmas Eve in Villabassa: the Christmas Mass is over, the silent night has fallen over the village. People stream from the parish church of St. Stephen to the main square, called Von-Kurz-Platz. The tall Christmas tree shines brightly, the beautiful light pictures and paintings of the big Advent calendar shine in the windows behind it. Adults and children wish each other Merry Christmas with a cup of hot tea or mulled wine in hand. The four to five tower trumpeters of the Musikkapelle Niederdorf, the Villabassa marching band, pick up their brass instruments. Christmas sounds resound; everyone is listening to the contemplative sounds. The message of Christmas is palpable: it is the feast of love, joy and peace.

Desirable ritual at Christmas time The tower trumpeters’ performance after the Christmas Mass is part of the Christmas ritual in Villabassa, for both the listeners and trumpeters. “It would not be really Christmas without the tower trumpeters,” reflects not only Robert Burger, chairman of the Villabassa marching band, “the people expect the performance of the tower trumpeters, as it is part of Christmas Eve as it should be. And for us musicians, it is also always a very special performance.” This tradition has existed in Villabassa for over fifty years. Robert Burger took over from his father, who was previously chairman of the band. At first, the tower trumpeters actually played from the church tower of the parish church, later they switched to the balcony of an inn and now the Christmas music is played in front of the bright Christmas tree in the village square. Robert Burger continues with another custom: after the tower trumpeting, the musicians meet up at his place “to sit together over a hot soup and to round off Christmas Eve as a community.”

Christmas ambassadors The call of the tower trumpeters lasts about half to three quarters of an hour. Fifty years ago, the right music literature was still limited: the tower trumpeter ensembles predominantly recited traditional classics, such as ‘Silent Night’ and ‘O, how joyful’. “Today, however, the selection of Advent and Christmas music is much more extensive. The trick is to filter out good pieces and create an appealing programme,” says Robert Burger. The Villabassa tower trumpeters prepare themselves professionally, practice the pieces they have targeted and play in different ensembles. Their appearance after the Christmas Mass is not their only performance: they also provide the harmonious musical accompaniment to the Christmas markets in San Candido/Innichen and Lienz or the Rorate Masses. The musical offspring also follow in their footsteps: the youth band of Villabassa musically accompanies the opening of the last door on the advent calendar, after the children's mass in the afternoon, for bright excited eyes.

From the tower guard to the musician Historically, the tower trumpeters go back to the tower guardians, who performed their service on the city, defence or church towers from the Middle Ages to the 19 th century. The task of the tower keepers or watchmen was to protect the inhabitants from fires and enemies. From their high vantage point on the church tower, usually the highest tower in town, they had the best overview. In case of danger, they alerted the inhabitants with warning signals from the horn. Later, musical performances were added, for example, to welcome high-ranking personalities or to participate in processions. Nowadays, the musicians are no longer tower guardians—the custom of the tower trumpeters received a new direction and has been revived, especially at Christmas time.

Joy to the world Whether it is snowing, raining or freezing cold: the tower trumpeters of Villabassa play in any weather. The musical rendezvous on Christmas Eve has never been cancelled. Even though winter nights sometimes have a few surprises in store: “At minus 25 degrees Celsius, not only do we freeze, but also our instruments freeze. Once it was so cold on the church tower that we had to warm up constantly. In the midst of excitement, a musician bumped against the church bell and knocked out a tooth,” says Robert Burger. He even remembers playing on a very foggy night: “The fog was so thick over Villabassa that it completely obscured the view. The audience could not see us, and we couldn’t see them.” And even the wind once played a trick on the tower trumpeters: “The strong wind carried the sounds away so far that our performance could not be heard at all.” However, the tower trumpeters refuse to yield to these adversities. And so they are standing in front of the Christmas tree again, after the Christmas Mass, and delight people with their music. Because without the tower trumpeters, it would not really be Christmas in Villabassa. Doris Brunner (Author)

©H. Wisthaler

©I. Bachmann

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