World of Jewelry / By Altın Dünyası Publishing Group - Global jewelry industry news by ALTIN DÜNYASI YAYIN GRUBU

Altın Dünyası

WORLD OF JEWELRY

Cover Image; Bvlgari

MAY 2019

WOJ

Bvlgari Presents;

FLOWERS IN ROME

TIPS FOR JEWELLERY RETAILERS TO BUILD RELATIONSHIPS WITH

RECORD NUMBER

OF VISITORS IN

ISTANBUL

MILLENNIALS AND GEN Z

ATASAY

OPENS A NEW

STORE IN QATAR

LAB-GROWN DIAMONDS:

2019

DEMAND RISES, PRICES FALL

ALL AROUND THE WORLD

To apply; You may call our Assos Cemberlitas corporate office at +90 0212 402 10 00.

With its unique and dynamic structure in the sector, Assos continues to grow every day. It becomes stronger by extending its domestic and foreign point of sales with franchising. You are invited to be a part of this family and grow together.

NEW

diamondlumiere .com 28

mına COLLECTION

NuruosmaniyeR.AlibabaTürbeST. Feyzullah Office Block N:11 FL:1 Kapalıçarşı/Fatih-İstanbul-Turkey

D Y N A M I C COLORE D L I V E L Y INSTAGRAM

@diamondlumiere

+90 532 766 0912

+90 538 954 9609

i n fo [ @ ] d i a m o n d l u m i e r e . c o m

Istanbul Jewelry Show hosted record number of visitors Istanbul Jewelry Show – March 2019, which is recognized as one of the top five jewelry exhibitions in the world and the first and only jewelry specific exhibition in Turkey ended. 30,741 sector professionals from 123 countries visited the exhibition, where a total of 1,250 companies from 24 countries exhibited their latest products and services. A Crucial report by Bain & Company about Lab-Grown Diamond

Remzi ÇELEN Editor in Chief

......

A new report says demand for lab-grown diamonds has experienced “significant growth” from attractive marketing, but that prices for such goods have declined 70% in the past two years. The report, compiled by Bain & Co. and published by Rapaport, says the price decline is caused by improving technology that lowered production costs. JCK Las Vegas With its return to its original venue this year, the Sands Expo and The Venetian, the JCK Las Vegas show will debut new technologies, new neighborhoods, and exclusive new products for retailers and exhibitors at its 2019 event, taking place May 31–June 3. Istanbul can be the center of the world gold trade Turkish jewellery industry has so many advantages. Due to these advantages Turkey poses as the world’s potential center of gold trade. The Golden Board of the Ministry of Treasury and Finance, CBRT, Borsa İstanbul, Istanbul Gold Refinery, Takasbank and CMB will take the necessary steps towards this matter. As long as the government provide support, and everyone gets together around the same goal, UK. Middle East countries, Turkic Republics can hold their gold in Turkey. And if Turkey becomes as the center of world gold trade center, no worries about where to go… Because Turkey and especially İstanbul have so many beautiful destinations to see. Millenials and Generation Z With Millennials set to be the highest-spending generation globally from 2020and Gen Z already making up 35% of the world population, it is no surprise that building relationships with these demographic groups is front of mind for jewellery retailers. Capturing the attention of these consumers, their share of wallet, and continued loyalty in today’s experience economy will require a strong understanding of their needs, views, and values.

MAY | 2019 Remzi Çelen Editor in Chief

Aslı Çelebioğlu Editor

Dilara Ünal News Editor

Süleyman Önkoyun Art + Production

Nur Kuşkondurmaz General Coordinator

Esin Çalışkan Sales Representative

Ayşegül Elgin Sales Representative

PUBLISHING GROUP

Altındünyası Publishing Group Alemdar Mah. Nuruosmaniye Caddesi N: 12 Kat:3 Fatih – İstanbul info@yayindunyasi.com +90 212 518 84 01

ÖZLEM MATBAACILIK Maltepe Mahallesi, Litros Yolu Sk. 2. Matbaacılar Sitesi D:2BB4, 34010 Zeytinburnu/İstanbul Telefon: (0212) 612 06 62 www.ozlemmatbaa.com.tr

TIFFANY & CO.â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Believe In Love Campaign Honors the Connections of True Love

Tiffany & Co.’s latest Believe In Love campaign features the Tiffany True engagement ring, which includes an innovative white diamond cut. The film captures the intimacy between two people, and the Tiffany True engagement ring as a symbol of their bond. Lady Gaga’s original song “Is That Alright?” from the film A Star is Born, is featured in this latest chapter of Tiffany & Co.’s Believe In Love campaign. Lady Gaga is a longtime friend of the brand, appearing in a previous campaign and more recently, taking to the red carpet in Tiffany’s innovative designs for her Golden Globe®, Screen Actors Guild®, Grammy®, and Academy Award® wins for her work in A Star is Born. It was at the 91st Academy Awards® that she wore the iconic Tiffany Diamond, marking the first time the legendary stone has ever appeared on a red carpet. The campaign film, which features Tiffany’s new engagement ring, echoes the emotional connection of love captured by the song, and launched globally on April 1, 2019.

Istanbul Jewelry Show â&#x20AC;&#x201C; March 2019 hosted a record number of visitors with 30,741 sector professionals from 123 countries!

stanbul Jewelry Show, which is recognized as one of the top five jewelry exhibitions in the world, ended on Sunday, March 24, 2019. The exhibition organized by UBM Rotaforte under the sponsorship of TEB for the 48th time brought together the latest products and services of more than 1,250 companies and brands from 24 countries with 30,741 sector professionals from 123 countries. Istanbul Jewelry Show, which increased its overseas visitor rate to 39%, gave the first sign that the Turkish jewelry exports will greatly increase in 2019, following a growth of 38% in 2018. Istanbul Jewelry Show â&#x20AC;&#x201C; March 2019, which is recognized as one of the top five jewelry exhibitions in the world and the first and

only jewelry specific exhibition in Turkey, ended on Sunday, March 24, 2019. 30,741 sector professionals from 123 countries visited the exhibition, where a total of 1,250 companies from 24 countries exhibited their latest products and services. The biggest buyer delegation programme of the Turkish exhibition sector took place at the exhibition organized under the sponsorship of the Turk Ekonomi Bankasi, which has been fulfilling the short and long-term needs of the jewelry sector for more than 20 years. Within the scope of the programme; more than 1,500 buyers from over 65 target countries were hosted. Master and young designers exhibited the trending products for the fashion of 2019-2020 at the Designer Market.

This year, the world jewelry sector’s interest in Turkey hit a record level Sermin CENGİZ UBM Rotaforte Founding Partner

coordination of the Republic of Turkey Ministry of Trade in order to boost exports, find new markets for export products and maintain the market share, made history as the biggest buyer delegation programme in the Turkish exhibition sector. 1,500 buyers came from 65 countries in the regions of Europe, the Middle East, North America, South America, North Africa and the Far East provided new business and cooperation opportunities to the exhibiting companies as part of Buyer Delegation Programme.

New exhibitors at the exhibition… 1,250 jewelry companies and brands from 24 countries were exhibited a wide range of product groups and sectors including gold, jewelry, diamonds, colored stones, precious and semi-precious stones, pearls, silver, silver

The world jewelry sector had its eye on Istanbul… Every passing year, the representatives of the world jewelry sector are getting more and more interested in Istanbul Jewelry Show. The most significant sign of this interest is the 9% increase in the number of overseas visitors to the March 2019 exhibition. The exhibition, which scored a 15% increase in the number of European visitors, also scored an increase of 8% in the CIS countries, including Russia. Compared to the exhibition in March 2018, the number of the visitors from the North Africa region increased by 9%. The Buyer Delegation Programme, organized by Istanbul Mineral and Metals Exporters' Association (IMMIB) General Secretariat, Turkish Jewelry Exporters Association (JTR) and UBM Rotaforte under the coordination of the Republic of Turkey Ministry of Trade in order to boost exports, find new markets for export products and maintain the market share, made history as the biggest buyer delegation programme in the Turkish exhibition sector. 1,500 buyers came from 65 countries in the regions of Europe, the Middle East, North America, South America, North Africa and the Far East provided new business and cooperation opportunities to the exhibiting companies as part of Buyer Delegation Programme.

pearls, silver, silver accessories and silver household items, gold mounters, refinery, watches, molds, shop window decorations, machinery and equipment side industry, safes, software, and logistics and lighting product groups. A total of 103 new exhibitors, 78 domestic and 25 foreign, attended the exhibition.

The latest designs of 2019-2020 fashion were exhibited! Turkish jewelry sector, which gained worldwide reputation with its uniquelydesigned products by breaking the pattern of contract manufacturing, presented the trending designs and collections for the jewelry fashion of 2019-2020 to jewelry buyers from all around the world with special shows. The Designer Market, organized every year by UBM Rotaforte and Turkish Jewelry Exporters Association, brought young and master jewelry designers together at the March 2019 exhibition. At the Designer Market, established exclusively at the fairground, the designers attracted great attention by exhibiting their own designs and jewelry.

Sermin Cengiz: “This year, the world jewelry sector’s interest in Turkey hit a record level” UBM Rotaforte Founding Partner Sermin Cengiz, stated the following: “We are very happy to have successfully organized our exhibition which sets the agenda of the world jewelry sector and its professionals for the 48th time under the sponsorship of TEB. Organized in March and October,

Istanbul Jewelry Show provides a platform for the realization of almost 80% of the Turkish jewelry exports. There is an increase trend in the number of visitors at our exhibitions organized for the last 3 years. Turkish companies provide the biggest contribution to this trend. The ability of Turkish companies to produce a wide range of products and services at different price ranges for various markets and Turkey’s jewelry history of 7,000 years placed our country among the top countries of the world jewelry sector. Supported with promotional activities throughout the year, the Turkish jewelry sector increased its success in exports. According to IMMIB data, jewelry exports from Turkey increased by 81% between 2016 and 2018 and reached $4.4 billion. We expect our exports to reach $6 billion with the business meetings and agreements to be conducted within the scope of our exhibitions in March and October.”

Bvlgari Presents:

FLOWERS IN ROME

Fiorever Is A Tribute To Passion And Joy Of Life

vlgari presents Fiorever, the new collection of diamonds inspired by the symbolism of flowers and its link with femininity. A portmanteau neologism that sees "fiore", the Italian for flower, and the English word "forever" fuse to make Fiorever. Forever, like the beauty of a diamond, emblem of an unchanging state, reminiscent of the charm of Rome, the Eternal City. Flower, the natural spontaneous passion for life, for its delicacy, with all the appeal of a work of art. The Maison in Rome has chosen a four-petal design for these jewels, a decorative element typical of many buildings in the cultural heritage of Rome, historic diamonds unspoilt by time. Villa Livia, with its frescoed gardens, a splendid example of Augustian art in the first century A.D., Palazzo Massimo alle Terme, a triumph of nineteenth-century architecture by Camillo Pistrucci, where a collection of ancient art is set against nature-themed decor, and finally, the Mausoleum of Santa Costanza, whose walls bloom with colourful mosaics. Ancient aesthetics and modern-day craftsmanship come together in these pieces of jewellery, proof of the quality embraced by Bvlgari since 1920. They have strong, decisive lines, their golden stems opening out into petals set with diamonds. The petals are alive and vibrant with volume and movement, trembling as if caressed by the wind: an imitation of nature that goes beyond reality itself. A solitary diamond sits at the heart of each jewel, a dazzling pistil with values ranging from 0.10 to 0.50 carats. The collection picks up on the creations in the High Jewellery line presented in 2017 and aims to complete the creative direction taken last year. The Fiorever campaign has been commissioned to the photographer Mario Sorrenti, and it stars the face of the Barcelonan actress Ă&#x161;rsula CorberĂł, known to the general public thanks to her role in the Netflix series, Money Heist. Her lively personality, brio and feminine energy are perfect for the Fiorever collection and the image of the Bvlgari woman: exuberant, irreverent, characterised by an almost Roman personality in Dolce Vita style that makes her passionate and at times instinctive. A woman, a flower, a jewel: this is the essence of Fiorever, a triple being that is however a whole, expressed in the diamond's promise of eternity -a tribute to love, passion and joie de vivre.

$ 825 MILLION OF JEWELLERY EXPORT IN THE FIRST QUARTER OF 2019

300 MILLION DOLLARS OF JEWELLERY EXPORTED IN MARCH

In March 2019, the Turkish Jewellery Exporters' Association exported $300 million in jewellery field. While the Middle East Asia was the most exported region with the highest export amount of $ 119.8 million exports in March, the United Arab Emirates became the most exported country with 83.7 million dollars.

n March 2019, the Turkish Jewelery Exporters' Association announced that jewellery exports that worth $ 300 million were exported and in the first quarter of the year, total exports amounted to 825 million dollars. ”There is 26 percent increasement in March” Mustafa Kamar, the chairman of the Association of Jewelery Exporters, who evaluated the March performance of the Association, said: “As the Union, we always say that as a sector that has exported $ 4.4 billion in 2018, the jewellery sector is a strategic sector and should be declared as a strategic sector too. In 2018, with 35% export growth, we have achieved a significant increase by increasing the export rate of the two

sectors. In the first three months of 2019, we gained a speed especially in kilograms. In March, there was a 26% increase in the amount of value, although there was a decline in value on the basis of economic fluctuations. We are working to make more contribution to the country's exports.” Most Exported Region Became Near and Middle East Asia The highest export in March was to the Middle East Asian country group with $ 119.8 million. 50.2 million dollars in Near and Middle East Asia followed the European Union, And $41.9 million dollars in Other Asia followed the $ 31.4 million in North America and $ 25.5 million in North Africa.

DE BEERS SAYS LAB-GROWN DIAMOND WHOLESALE PRICES FALL BY UP TO 60 PERCENT Wholesale prices for lab-grown diamonds have fallen by up to 60 percent since De Beers began selling synthetic stones for jewelry in September, CEO Bruce Cleaver said, adding margins for the sector would continue to fall.

e Beers, part of mining group Anglo American, shocked the diamond industry last year when it announced it was reversing a decades-old policy of selling natural diamonds only for jewelry and synthetic stones for industrial uses. Its Lightbox brand, created for the new synthetic venture, is starting small, selling 20,000 carats by the end of 2019, but De Beers has invested in a synthetic diamond factory in the U.S. state of Oregon, which should produce more than half a million rough carats a year when fully operational in 2020. Already, the impact on synthetic pricing had been huge, Cleaver said, citing De Beersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; analysis that showed an up to 60 percent fall in wholesale prices. He said the slide would continue as improved technology increases the quality and volume of lab-grown diamonds.

De Beers has invested in a synthetic diamond factory in the U.S. state of Oregon, which should produce more than half a million rough carats a year when fully operational in 2020

I like to compare it to a flat screen TV. The first ones were very expensive and the quality was poor. “The margins that were out there are not sustainable,” Cleaver told Reuters in an interview. “I like to compare it to a flat screen TV. The first ones were very expensive and the quality was poor.”

Without giving numbers, Cleaver said De Beers would boost its marketing budget for natural stones this year, which already in 2018 was the highest in a decade at $166 million.

Cleaver however denied synthetic diamonds were cutting into the price of natural stones, which he says are a different product. “It’s a perfectly legitimate business. It’s just a different business,” he says of lab-grown diamonds.

While Anglo American’s overall core earnings for 2018 rose by 4 percent, De Beers’ underlying EBITDA (earnings before interest, tax, depreciation and amortization) fell by 13 percent.

Much of the aim of De Beers, the world’s leading diamond seller by value, in launching Lightbox is to differentiate diamonds grown in a laboratory from those found in the earth. In contrast to the commodities that form the bulk of Anglo American’s portfolio, demand for diamonds, which is listed in its results statement as among the company’s “principal risks and uncertainties,” is reliant on marketing.

Cleaver attributed the fall to expenditure, including on Lightbox, as well as volatile market conditions, although he said the biggest markets for diamonds, the United States and China, were robust. Source: Reuters / LONDON Reporting by Barbara Lewis; Additional reporting by Arathy S. Nair in Bengaluru; Editing by David Holmes

Want to become a diamond master? Join our education programme and learn from the best.

Our international programme combines enduring tradition and constant innovation, with the diamond grading and identiﬁcation course as our ﬂagship. HRD Antwerp education stands for technical excellence, practical experience and the joy of working with diamonds. Check our courses at www.hrdantwerp.com

HRD Antwerp is based in the world’s oldest diamond capital. Discover more at

www.hrdantwerp.com 51

LABORATORY-GROWN DIAMONDS:

DEMAND RISES, PRICES FALL A new report says demand for lab-grown diamonds has experienced “significant growth” from attractive marketing, but that prices for such goods have declined 70% in the past two years. The report, compiled by Bain & Co. and published by Rapaport, says the price decline is caused by improving technology that lowered production costs.

he consulting firm also noted that its consumer survey found that demand for lab-grown diamonds falls off sharply when their price tops $1,000 per carat. Lab-grown producers, other than De Beers/Lightbox, claimed in the report that demand is running above supplies for their products, so prices are not dropping – especially for larger stones that remain difficult to produce. The Bain view, however, is that prices will likely continue to decline to the point where the two markets “separate themselves,” similar to what happened with colored stones.

compared to last year, as their clients – diamond manufacturers – complain of softening prices and rising inventories, especially of small, lower quality goods. The De Beers February/March cycle totaled $490 million, a 13% decline from the same period last year, but the firm held the line on prices after lowering them on some goods last fall. The trade generally welcomed the lower allocations, which include sight sales and individual deals, but claimed that softening polished prices have cut margins.

NATURAL DIAMONDS

De Beers production also slid about 10% in 2018 – 32 million cts compared to 35 million cts in 2017 – although revenues increased 4% as the company shifted more of its sales toward higher quality goods.

The world’s two largest diamond miners – De Beers and Alrosa – continued cautious supply policies into the first third of the year. Both cut back on rough sales

De Beers noted: “The outlook for 2019 global diamond jewelry consumer demand faces a number of headwinds, including the risk of a potential intensification of

U.S.-China trade tensions, the Chinese government’s ability to rebalance economic growth towards consumption, and further exchange rate volatility,” Alrosa announced that its February rough sales were $340.6 million, up 23% over its January allocation. While the headline stated it was an increase, sales for the first two months of the year were more than 35% below the same period of 2017. The company did note improving demand from some Indian manufacturers, despite “some challenges hampering access to bank financing for the industry.”

KIMBERLEY PROCESS The United Nations (U.N.) approved a resolution aimed at expanding the mandate of the Kimberley Process (K.P.) to exclude diamonds produced in a climate of “systemic violence” in addition to civil conflicts. This means that diamonds produced in areas where workers and local residents are killed, injured or abused by government, local militia or private security forces may be sanctioned if the measure is adopted. This is a major expansion that can allow, for the first time, diamonds from countries not engaged in civil wars to be excluded by the K.P. Although the U.N. adopted the resolution and the World Diamond Council approved it, it’s hardly a done deal. The K.P. itself has to adopt the change, and,

since that requires unanimous approval from every member country, nothing is guaranteed. The U.S. tried to push this expansion a decade ago to no avail – it was met with fierce opposition from many African producer countries, particularly those bordering Zimbabwe, who feared reprisals from their larger neighbor. At that time, Zimbabwe’s government was under fire for major human rights abuses at the Marange mining area and assumed (not entirely wrongly) the change in the K.P. was directed at them. After the U.N. approved the resolution, a coalition of non-governmental organizations (NGOs), The Civil Society Coalition, issued a call to ban diamonds from Zimbabwe based on the fact that the country’s army is involved the mining process. The army violently assumed control of the diamond deposits in 2006 after hundreds of artisanal miners had settled into the area to dig for stones. An estimated 180 people died in the conflict, while human rights abuses allegedly continued for years afterward. An effort to expel Zimbabwe from the K.P. a decade ago was defeated on the grounds that Zimbabwe’s government was the recognized authority and that sanctions were only applied to rebel groups. Source : GIA / Russell Shor

The consulting firm noted that its consumer survey found that demand for lab-grown diamonds falls off sharply when their price tops $1,000 per carat.

10 TIPS FOR JEWELLERY RETAILERS TO BUILD RELATIONSHIPS WITH MILLENNIALS AND GEN Z With Millennials set to be the highest-spending generation globally from 2020 and Gen Z already making up 35% of the world population, it is no surprise that building relationships with these demographic groups is front of mind for jewellery retailers.

apturing the attention of these consumers, their share of wallet, and continued loyalty in today’s experience economy will require a strong understanding of their needs, views, and values. At Pragma we work with many of the UK’s leading retailers, including jewellers, many of whom are targeting younger customers. Here we share our top ten tips to inspire meaningful relationships between brands, millennial’s (age 21 – 39), and Generation Z (age 0 – 20).

1. BE AUTHENTIC Stories sell. We find that there has been a recent shift from interest in the mass-produced to the curated, and younger customers often want to know the story behind what they’re purchasing. Jewellery retailers can emphasise the sourcing and craftsmanship behind the piece, as well as tell the story of the consumer that ultimately wears it in order to build a more emotional connection amongst consumers. Monica Vinader ran an #ExpressYourself campaign last year that released videos of everyday women and how they wore the brand to express individuality. In focusing a campaign around real stories, in spite of entering mass market the brand has been able to remain relatable and authentic in the eye of the consumer.

2. BE ETHICAL Research suggests that the ethical standards of a brand are important to 42% of millennials. There is increasing pressure, particularly in the fine jewellery sector, to place emphasis on the ethical credentials of raw materials. There is an opportunity to take this further by encouraging purposeful purchasing. Chopard, for example, not only sources materials responsibly but has also partnered with gold mining communities in South America to boost social and economic development. Championing a cause such as this creates brand appeal and resonates with the millennial and Gen Z desire to ‘give back’.

3. BE INNOVATIVE It is suggested that 70% of millennials will consider a labgrown diamond engagement ring. Being more environmentallyconscious, younger consumers are buying into brands that are building their identity on being anti-conflict and environmentally conscious. Contemporary jewellery brand Kimai centres pieces around lab-grown diamonds and delivers products in recyclable packaging. With the lab-grown small diamonds market predicted to grow rapidly, and the likes of Meghan Markle wearing pieces from brands such as Kimai, jewellery retailers will need to innovate in order to not lose out to upstarts gaining traction in the fine jewellery space.

4. BE SUSTAINABLE With the rise of both the circular and sharing economy, the luxury rental market has emerged. Glitzbox, a London-based start-up, is a subscription service for jewellery rental. Although this may not be the obvious answer for jewellery retailers, as millennials and Gen Z purchase fewer high value items focusing on the mantra of quality over quantity, they may look to reuse raw materials in the future. Retailers could potentially offer additional services such as the melting down of gold or resetting diamonds to encourage customer lifetime value.

5. BE TRANSPARENT As digital natives, we know that millennials and Gen Z are constantly browsing online. A report by De Beers suggests that around 60% of millennial and Gen Z women search the internet prior to purchase to learn about diamond designs, quality, and pricing. Being transparent about what they are buying and at what price-point is a useful tool to build trust. This transparency is often where retailers lose out to players such as US brand Mejuri whose tagline is ‘everyday fine jewellery minus the traditional markups’. On each product they provide the ‘estimated traditional retail price’ against their Mejuri price to land the messaging around fair pricing.

6. BE PERSONAL Through our work we have found that younger customers have expectations around high degrees of curation when it comes to customer service, and technology is being adopted by many retailers to respond to these ever-increasing needs. In the US, millennials are considered more likely to be comfortable using chatbots, and 70% that have used them reported a positive experience. deGrisogono unveiled social media campaigns with chatbots that gave purchasing advice via Facebook based on personalised queries by customers. Jewellery retailers should be increasingly looking to purposeful technology to solve customer needs and provide on-demand interaction.

7. BE SOCIAL Social media is redefining the celebrities of today with 46% of Gen Z’s following more than ten online influencers. Gen Z have demonstrated more interaction with brands through social media than millennials and prefer to interact via Instagram rather than the millennial’s preference of Facebook or Twitter. Jewellers need to enable shopping functionality on Instagram, and incorporate user-generated content in-store and online. For example, Missoma allows customers to shop the look through Instagram posts.

8. BE ACCESSIBLE Though women remain the predominant customer for jewellery, millennial’s and Gen Z are driving men’s jewellery sales. A brand that is tapping in to this potential is UK-based Astrid & Miyu, which has released its first unisex range of jewellery. Amongst young women, jewellery is no longer only for celebrations, nor do women feel that they must be gifted it by their partner with more than 51% of

A report by De Beers suggests that around 60% of millennial and Gen Z women search the internet prior to purchase to learn about diamond designs, quality, and pricing. 58

millennials purchasing jewellery for themselves. In an era of gender empowerment and higher disposable incomes amongst younger consumers, brands have the potential to respond with more accessible campaigns.

9. BE DATA-DRIVEN In our work we find that with the growth of online retail, web analytics is a key driver to determining how to appeal to younger customers. Some jewellers are already starting to use data-driven decisions to drive sales; after observing spikes in sales of its Love bracelet among young consumers, Cartier re-released its Panthère watch on Net-a-Porter, younger customers bought the entry-level pieces (from £3,600), rather than the priciest item (£140,000). Tiffany & Co. and Chopard have also launched on Net-a-Porter to broaden their customer base from the traditional boutique shopper, having identified potential in the shopping behaviours of younger consumers and their increased propensity to spend on luxury jewellery.

10. BE FUN The experience of buying jewellery, particularly in stores, is still often associated with long queues and locked cabinets. Younger customers are expecting brands to be reflective of their lifestyle and attitudes. Brands are responding with exclusive events in-store where shoppers can enjoy free food and drink, engage in talks attended by influencers, and explore the range on a more accessible level with added perks such as free engravings and personalisation. We believe there is a further opportunity for partnerships whereby multiple brands which resonate with young consumers create an environment that isn’t just about the sale, but the experience, leaving a more meaningful and lasting memory in the mind of the young customers of today and the future. Article by Aman Kaur Paul, Consultant, Pragma Consulting – a.kaurpaul@pragmauk.com Pragma is a leading consultancy which helps retailers enhance growth and profits through applying customer and market insight and practical solutions.

Emil GÜZELİŞ Chairman - Zen Diamond

LEADING EXPORTER IN DIAMOND:

ZEN DIAMOND

The export data of 2018 were announced by the Turkish Jewelry Exporters’ Association. Zen Diamond became the leading manufacturer and exporter in ''Diamond Jewellery'' category with its performance in 2018.

ewellery sector in Turkey increased by 35% compared to last year's performance in late 2018. According to this, the industry witnessed $ 4.4 billion export. Also known in the global market with its “Diamond in Turkey is Diamond Zen” motto, Zen Diamond put a brilliant export performance in Turkey. Zen Diamond has become the export leader in diamond jewellery category for the eight time in the last 11 years. Zen Diamond, with the power of having Europe's largest production capacity, offers the widest selection of diamond jewellery models in Turkey, by this way it succeeds to respond to different expectations and budgets. In addition to the indispensable classics such as solitaire, tria, diamond wedding rings, the models include finest diamond jewelleries that meet colourful stones. Namely in Zen Diamond, there are

numerous designs to accompany a woman from day to night. Zen Diamond also offers different options for men; diamond watch collections and diamond accessories such as ties, cufflinks, pencils, wallets and belts. Forevermark, the diamond brand of the world's largest diamond company De Beers Group, enters into a licensing partnership with certain jewellery companies that meet the high standards that are valid in all over the world. In Turkey, Forevermark only choosed Zen Diamond as an authorized Forevermark jeweler. Each year Zen Pırlanta takes its designs to the international arena by participating in the most important jewellery fairs in the world. Zen Diamond follows and applies fashion trends in the world by closely monitoring the new models with its abroad offices.

Turkey's Biggest Jewellery Chain Atasay Opens a New Store in Qatar

urkey’s biggest jewellery chain, Atasay, launched its first ever store in Qatar at Doha Festival City (DFC), Qatar’s preferred shopping destination, with a Qatar Exclusive Capsule Collection, a handcrafted selection of fine jewellery inspired by the country’s landscape. The opening was attended by the Turkish Ambassador to Qatar, Fikret Özer, who cut the store’s ribbon alongside the famous Turkish star Meryem Uzerli ( Hareem el Sultan), the brand ambassador and face of Atasay. The guest of honours were accompanied by the owner/ president of Atasay Group, Cihan Kamer, Atasay board member, Çiğdem Kamer, the CEO, Atasay Kamer, and senior management of DFC. Atasay Kamer, CEO of the Atasay Group, said: “We are very happy to be opening today the first ever store for our brand in Qatar at DFC. The exclusive collection, we are featuring for this occasion, is a celebration of the great bond that connects the peoples of Qatar and Turkey. ” Robert Hall, General Manager of DFC, said: “As a preferred retail destination, DFC is proud to be the choice of Atasay Group for their Qatari debut. This only

conveys the confidence global brands have in the experience we provide at the mall for both retailers and shoppers.” Atasay designed an exquisite capsule collection exclusively for Qatar. Inspired by the breathtaking landscape of the country, the collection features an elegant range of bracelets, necklaces, rings and earrings in high carat gold, showcasing unique motifs and designs that refer back to prominent local characteristics. This collection will be available exclusively at DFC. Symbolising the harmony between water and desert, the collection offers a selection of pieces in gold with subtle hints of turquoise. The delicate pink quartz and rose gold pieces are drawn from the stunning colourful sunsets in the city. Designs are sophisticated and elaborate to represent the architecture of Qatar, and other historical elements using pearls. The abundant sun of the country inspires a beautiful pair of circular flower earrings in gold, while a necklace and ring set with concentric floral patterns in turquoise and yellow gold, are meant to reflect the cultural diversity of the region.

We are very happy to be opening today the first ever store for our brand in Qatar at DFC.

1500 foreign buyers in Istanbul Jewelry Show were hosted free of charge

NEW RECORD IN THE BUYER’S DELEGATION PROGRAMME

ewellery Exporters' Association, welcomes buyers from all over the world in Istanbul during the Istanbul Jewelry Show that is organized twice a year. During the show held in March, the number of foreign buyer numbers hosted in Istanbul reached 1500 and this means a new record. Istanbul Jewelry Show became one of the most important fairs of the world jewellery industry. The work of the Association of Jewellery Exporters also plays an important role in that. With Buyer’s Delegation Programme, hundreds of foreign buyers in Istanbul are hosted free of charge during İstanbul Jewelry Show in March.

Free accommodation to buyers Jewellery Exporters' Association aims the world jewellery industry professionals to realize Turkey's advantages. Therefore, it works hard throughout the year detecting buyers. After the buyer companies are identified, the Association completes their online bookings.

Jewellery buyers were hosted in 5 hotels in Istanbul While determining the buyers, Jewellery Exporters' Association also gets support from firms in Turkey. Exporter companies in Turkey report their buyers and customers that they wanted them to be hosted free of charge. The next event will be held from 10 to 13 October 2019.

ASSOS DIAMOND

WILL OPEN NEW STORES IN EUROPE Assos Diamond, leading company of Turkish jewellery industry, decided to develop its chain stores in Europe. The brand currently has 8 stores in Europe. 68

We have been operating in Europe for more than 20 years with our brand Assos Diamond. We serve a large number of sales points. At the same time, our brand Assos Diamond has 8 jewelry stores.

ssos Diamond which established under one of the biggest holdings of Turkish economy Altınbaş Holding, decided to develop its numbers of chain stores. Performing wholesaling of gold and diamonds to hundreds of sales points in Turkey, Assos Diamond is also in a successful situation in the merchandizing field in Europe. Assos Diamond, which has 8 stores across Europe, aims to increase this number in the coming period. Indicating that they have important advantages in order to be successful in European market, Assos Diamond General Manager Serdar Nerezoğlu, said about their works, “Assos Diamond is a company established under the roof of one of the largest holding company, Altınbaş Holding. As Assos Diamond, we have 30 years of long-standing background. We are one of the leading brands in the jewellery sector in Turkey. We serve a large number of sales points. We have been operating in Europe for more than 20 years with our brand Assos Diamond. We serve a large number of sales points. At the same time, our brand Assos

Diamond has 8 jewellery stores. Due to the high performance of these stores, we decided to grow in Europe. We developed a new store concept We have done meticulous work on the concept of Assos Diamond stores. As a result of these studies, we have determined our new store concept. We are pleased with the interest shown in our new concept. We design jewellery collections that fit the demand of European consumers We know how important our product collections are in order for our stores to be successful. That is why we design jewellery collections that fit the demand of European consumers. The high sales of our stores is a proof that we are successful in this issue. We evaluate demands from Europe We receive new demands from various parts of Europe.We meticulously evaluate these demands. We aim for long term cooperation with a profitable, stable and sustainable business model.

GLOBAL WARMING Colorful flowers that beautify our world, lilacs as the subjects of songs, red roses as an expression of our love, tulips as the symbols of magnificence, elegant orchids, water lillies, nightpleasures, bees making honey, butterflies each of which are color symphonies, cicadas, dragonflies, and birds are going to extinct and future generations will only know them in old pictures and gold jewelry. Please treat the nature well and become more sensitive about global warming..

ISTANBUL CAN BE THE CENTER OF THE WORLD GOLD TRADE AyĹ&#x;en Esen, CEO of Istanbul Gold Refinery, one of the top 10 refineries in the world's top 68 gold refineries, accredited by the LBMA (London Bullion Market Association), told that Istanbul can be the center of the world gold trade.

e conducted an interview about Turkey's place in the global jewellery market with AyĹ&#x;en Esen, CEO of Istanbul Gold Refinery, which has become one of the most important companies in the precious metals industry not only in Turkey but also in the whole world. How can you evaluate the Turkish jewellery industry ? Turkey is quite a big market with a population of 80 million. The size of the domestic market is over $ 10 billion. The annual exports of the sector, together with sales in the tourist regions, approach $ 7 billion. There are 30 thousand stores and 5 thousand production companies in Turkey and more than 1000 of these manufacturers are located in the biggest production center, Kuyumcukent. Where does Istanbul Gold Refinery stand in this frame? Turkey is located in the center of the jewellery industry, and we assume

the role of being locomotive for the development of the sector. We are in the heart of the industry trade. A very important part of the gold processed in the sector is refined in our facilities and again entered into the production system of thousands of companies in the sector. At the same time, Gram Gold, which produced in our facilities is sold in thousands of stores. We are the largest 16th industrial establishment. We became Turkey's largest gold exporter in 2018. Our other brand Gram Gold, became the third firm that having made the highest endorsement increase. Gram Gold rose to the position of Turkey's largest 146 industrial establishments.

We also assume an important task for Turkey's economy Not only in the jewellery industry, IAR also plays a very important role in Turkey's economy. In Turkey, people practice economy with their savings in gold. About 5000 tons of gold are waiting outside the economy. The precursor contributor who contribute

Istanbul Gold Refinery is one of the top 10 refineries in the world's top 68 gold refineries, accredited by the LBMA.

We are the first and only company that its products are accepted by COMEX in Turkey. Furthermore, we are accredited by institutions such as DMCC and IPMI. Gold from all around the world is being refined in our facilities.

to that economic value to Turkey's economy is Istanbul Gold Refinery. We have made tons of gold entered to the economy in cooperation with Turkish banks. In addition to describing gold as a financial instrument, we are the company that offers economic management as an economic policy tool. The gold-based lease certificate and the gold-based bond practices are some of the projects that we offer to our government.

2011, we were able to enter the Union of London Bullion Markets (LBMA) in the World's Best Refineries List. We are now ranked amongst the 68 largest companies in the world within the â&#x20AC;&#x153;Good Delivery Listâ&#x20AC;?. We are the first and only company that its products are accepted by COMEX in Turkey. Furthermore, we are accredited by institutions such as DMCC and IPMI. Gold from all around the world is being refined in our facilities.

Under which stages had IAR undergone since it had been founded?

Cooperation with Real Madrid

Istanbul Gold Refinery was established in 1996 by the government with the contribution of The Under secretariat of Treasury and Istanbul Gold Exchange. In 2002, we bought majority shares of this company. Some of our shares are still owned by the state. We became the first official gold refinery firm in the list of gold refineries of the Under secretariat of Treasury. In 2007, we became members of the Dubai Gold Exchange, the heart of gold trade. In

We are also one of the world's largest manufacturers of micro-gold bar. Various weights of gold bullions and silvers produced in our facilities are demanded from all over the world. We are also signing important collaborations on this issue. We have partnerships with many giant brands, including Real Madrid. What position does IAR have in the world in the field of gold refinery? We have made a great progress and I think we're going to

make more. Because Turkey has very important advantages. The role of Turkish Airlines, our geographical location, the acceptance of our facilities around the world, these are very important factors. For example, gold from a mine in Canada can be delivered to our facilities on the same day thanks to Turkish Airlines. These gold coins can be purchased after refined with the world's highest quality standards in our facilities with LBMA certification or can be sent back to Canada with THY the next day.We are in a distance that lasts less than a day from every point of the world. As a global company, our country, IAR's location, our central position and being one of the world's most recognized refineries, the whole world is now our target market. In this context, From India to America and from the Far East to Europe; all countries, refineries and precious metal companies, which comply with the principles of Responsible Sourcing make up our target market.

A Collection Of Animals

Animals symbolize virtues, character traits, or values. They become totems when mounted on a ring, a necklace, a brooch or earrings. Set with emeralds or sapphires by Boucheronâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s gifted artisans, animals become precious and exclusive companions. Hummingbird or wolf, polar bear or white swan: over 20 different species fill the bestiary of the Collection of Animals. 74

THE WINNER IS;

''WHITE GARDEN'' by HILAL KALENDER

Piano Jewellery who has produced and bring the design to life has also made a splash.

he most exciting days of Turkish Jewellery World Istanbul Jewellery Show has gone by creating a very intense agenda. Undoubtedly, another exciting event taking place during the Show, 11th Jewellery Design Competition organized by JTR, has also created an agenda. The winner is announced on 22th of March, after 10 finalist’s design had been evaluated by a very experienced jury. After a long wait of months of evaluation process, winner has become Hilal Kalender with her design ‘White Garden’. Piano Jewellery who has produced and bring the design to life has also made a splash.

Recently being mentioned most often Piano Jewellery has given us information about the desing in the form of a hairpin. Produced in 2 matching pieces, different techniques have been used; American Fixing, classical fixing and enamel coloring has been applied and the spectecular design has 526 gemstones on it. In details very significant enamel lapping takes place and the design shines out with its craftsmenship and elegance.

JCK LAS VEGAS 2019: NEW TECHNOLOGIES, NEW NEIGHBORHOODS, NEW EXCLUSIVE PRODUCTS With its return to its original venue this year, the Sands Expo and The Venetian, the JCK Las Vegas show will debut new technologies, new neighborhoods, and exclusive new products for retailers and exhibitors at its 2019 event, taking place May 31–June 3. Here’s what guests and vendors can look forward to at this year’s big show. 78

The show floor is more compact, and

exhibitors have been grouped together into neighborhoods by product type. Single-Badge Entry

JCK Match

A single badge at JCK Las Vegas will allow attendees to visit more than 20 curated neighborhoods—and grants access to Luxury by JCK (May 29–June 3) and the new Global Gemstone Pavilion and JIS Exchange, both open May 30–June 3.

JCK Match will continue to match buyers with vendors who offer the products and services they need. “I had a great experience with the matchmaking program, where the JCK team introduced me to a customer that I would have never met,” said Steve Mazza, vice president of Mazza Co., in the same statement. “And it’s turned out to be one of my best customers.”

New Floor Design and Tech Navigation The new floor design is set to make navigating the show easier. How, exactly? The show floor is more compact, and exhibitors have been grouped together into neighborhoods by product type. Booth-to-booth GPS navigation will be available in the JCK mobile app (once visitors activate Bluetooth on their device), which will make it easier to find your way to specific booths. And with exhibitor QR codes located on the show floor, buyers will be able to scan exhibitor information with their phones and refer back to it later on. The JCK mobile app also offers Ask Bling for on-demand digital and in-person support.

Digital Lookbook Set to debut this year, the Discovering New @ JCK digital lookbook is a free offering to all exhibitors and retailers that’s designed to highlight what is new at the show. It features products and designs launching for the first time at the show—all exclusive to JCK Las Vegas. Upon registering, buyers will automatically receive an email with a link to the lookbook (and it can also be accessed at the JCK Match booth on Level 2 on interactive screens). The Discovering New product tool will also feature exhibitor QR codes that buyers can scan for more information and save for later or gather into a list of top destinations on the show floor.

New Neighborhoods The new Global Gemstone Pavilion will feature more than 200 global gemstone dealers/exhibitors. Bella Italia, the new Italian neighborhood, will showcase more than 75 brands from Italy, both returning and new to the show. JCK will also offer Lab-Grown Diamonds, Security—in partnership with the Jewelers’ Security Alliance (JSA)—and Retail Innovation and Essentials & Technology neighborhoods.

Cutting-Edge Education For 2019, well-regarded educational series JCK Talks will cover relevant industry topics within overarching sessions on trends, technology in retail, and modern consumerism. There will be a Retailer Roundtable and a Social Media Boot Camp powered by marketing agency the Smithee Group. For the luxury watch industry, the American WatchmakersClockmakers Institute (AWCI) will sponsor 10 educational sessions on various aspects of watchmaking and horology. These sessions will be taught in a 38-foot mobile classroom complete with eight full-size, adjustable-height watchmaking benches outfitted with the latest tools and technology.

The Showroom Reflecting the Dream World of Jewellery Designs

ida Bergsen, the jewellery designer who transforms the people who wear her jewelleries to a dream based on the vision of history, invites design enthusiasts with the new Showroom store opened in Nişantaşı. Aida Bergsen, who started his sculptural journey with his designs in 2000, developed the concept of body sculptures by positioning man as a link between jewelry and sculpture. Reflecting the integrity of her jewellery adventure approaching its 20th year, as being the brand's point of sale and brand house with the widest product range. the showroom aims to be the meeting point of art and craft by hosting periodic conversations and invitations in the depths of Bergsen's design concept. Aida Bergsen store will serve as a 120-square-meter VIP sellingpoint. With the decorative line of thestore, the use of interior sculptures and antiques adds store a holistic dimension.

Aida Bergsen’s jewellery designs, which are prominent with their bold and elegant lines, are the heroes of universal, immortal stories, all told in different languages for centuries. When Bergsen transfers these stories to metal and stone, she also use bronze, gold, silver, precious and semi-precious stones. Aida Bergsen jewels travel all over the world on bodies and meet with the audience through various international fairs and exhibitions like Paris Pret-aPorter Atmosphere and Eclat de Mode Bijorhca, Premiere Classe Jardin Des Tuileries and Couture Las Vegas. The shoulder brooch design of the designer's Convolvulus Sepium collection was presented to the auction by the special invitation of Christie’s Paris in 2018. Aida Bergsen meets the design enthuasiasts with its Bergdorf Goodman department store and London's Harvey Nichols store in New York and now the brand also invites you to its dream world with its new home in Istanbul.

SHARE OF U.S. ADULTS USING SOCIAL MEDIA, INCLUDING FACEBOOK, IS MOSTLY UNCHANGED SINCE 2018

The share of U.S. adults who say they use certain online platforms or apps is statistically unchanged from where it stood in early 2018 despite a long stretch of controversies over privacy, fake news and censorship on social media, according to a new Pew Research Center survey conducted Jan. 8 to Feb. 7, 2019.

ore broadly, the steady growth in adoption that social platforms have experienced in the United States over the past decade also appears to be slowing. The shares of adults who say they use Facebook, Pinterest, LinkedIn and Twitter are each largely the same as in 2016, with only Instagram showing an uptick in use during this time period. (There are no comparable 2016 phone survey data for YouTube, Snapchat, WhatsApp or Reddit.) Facebook – which recently celebrated its 15th anniversary – remains one of the most widely used social media sites among adults in the U.S. Roughly sevenin-ten adults (69%) say they ever use the platform. (A separate 2018 Center survey showed Facebook use among U.S. teens had dropped in recent years.) YouTube is the only

other online platform measured that matches Facebook’s reach: 73% of adults report using the video sharing site. But certain online platforms, most notably Instagram and Snapchat, have an especially strong following among young adults.

Instagram, Snapchat remain especially popular among those ages 18 to 24 As was true in previous surveys of social media use by the Center, there are substantial age-related differences in platform use. This is especially true of Instagram and Snapchat, which are used by 67% and 62% of 18- to 29-year-olds, respectively. Particularly for these two platforms, there are also pronounced differences in use within the young adult population. Those ages 18

to 24 are substantially more likely than those ages 25 to 29 to say they use Snapchat (73% vs. 47%) and Instagram (75% vs. 57%). By comparison, age differences are less pronounced for Facebook. Facebook use is relatively common across a range of age groups, with 68% of those ages 50 to 64 and nearly half of those 65 and older saying they use the site. Other demographic patterns related to social media and messaging app use are relatively unchanged from last year. Women are nearly three times as likely as men to use Pinterest (42% vs. 15%). Around half of college graduates and those who live in high-income households use LinkedIn, compared with 10% or fewer of those who have not attended at least some college or those in lower-income households. And WhatsApp continues to be popular among Hispanics: 42% use the messaging app, compared with 24% of blacks and 13% of whites. (For more details on social media and messaging app use by different demographic groups, see the bottom of the post.)

Majority of Facebook, Snapchat and Instagram users visit these sites daily A 2018 Center survey found that some Facebook users had recently taken steps to moderate their use of the site â&#x20AC;&#x201C; such as deleting the

Facebook app from their phone or taking a break from the platform for some time. But despite these findings and amid some high profile controversies, Facebook users as a whole are just as active on the site today as they were a year ago. Roughly three-quarters of Facebook users (74%) visit the site daily, including about half who do so several times a day. These shares are identical to those reported by Facebook users in the Centerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 2018 social media use survey. Majorities of Snapchat and Instagram users also say they visit these sites daily, though they are slightly less likely than Facebook users to do so. The shares of young adults using these platforms daily are especially large. Roughly eightin-ten Snapchat users ages 18 to 29 (77%) say they use the app every day, including 68% who say they do so multiple times day. Similarly, 76% of Instagram users in this age group visit the site on a daily basis, with 60% reporting that they do so several times per day. These patterns are largely similar to what the Center found in 2018. Other platforms are visited somewhat less frequently. Some 51% of YouTube users say they visit the site daily â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a slight increase from the 45% who said this in 2018. Source : PEW Research Center

Instagram and Snapchat, have an especially strong following among young adults. 83

Turkish Lanterns

These are the creations by Tekin Seyrekoğlu Jewelry, an Istanbul-based company that is looking to further expand in the world

hey take inspiration from the old-style lanterns with ickering light that cuts through the shadows of Turkish nights. This is a memory from Tekin Seyrekoğlu’s childhood, and has resulted in “Candle Lanterns,” a unique collection of precious jewels that bring traditional motifs to sumptuous necklaces and rings in various shapes and colors. This is the latest chapter in a story that began many years ago when the company’s founder lost his father as a child and had to get to work. He soon learned the trade and opened a small jewelry workshop in Istanbul with a partner at only fifteen years old. The company has had recognizable designs since the beginning, combining quality materials with a unique

style that relies on traditional cultural elements reinterpreted in a contemporary way. The company works to constantly improve its craftsmanship and expertise. Today, it is an important name in Turkish jewelry, and takes part in Vicenzaoro as well as the most important industry events. Its jewelry pieces – rings, bracelets, earrings and pendants – are sold in di erent shades of 14,18and 21-carat gold, in about 650 of the most exclusive stores throughout the world. The next objective for Tekin Seyrekoğlu company is to expand even more into international markets in collaboration with renowned Turkish and international brands.

GIA REPORT FOR LABORATORY-GROWN DIAMONDS It gives detailed explanation of changes.

IA announced changes to its laboratory-grown diamond grading report to align the report with recent revisions to the U.S. Federal Trade Commission (FTC) Jewelry Guides.

The standard GIA color grading scales will be included on the report for reference, for example: Colorless for D, E and F; Near Colorless for G, H, I and J; and Faint for K, L and M.

Effective July 1, 2019, GIA will discontinue the GIA Synthetic Diamond Grading Report, introduced in January 2007, and introduce the GIA Laboratory-Grown Diamond Report.

The standard GIA clarity grading scales will be included on the report for reference, for example Slightly Included for SI1 and SI2. The GIA Laboratory-Grown Diamond Report will use ‘laboratory-grown’ in the identification line of the report; ‘synthetic’ will not be used in the report.

The GIA Laboratory-Grown Diamond Report will include the standard GIA color, clarity and cut grading scales for reference purposes. The GIA Laboratory-Grown Diamond Report will continue to use Colorless, Near Colorless, Faint, Very Light and Light to report the color grades for laboratorygrown diamonds, rather than the letters used to report the color grades for natural diamonds.

The GIA Laboratory-Grown Diamond Report includes the following statement: This is a man-made diamond produced by CVD (Chemical Vapor Deposition) or HPHT (High Pressure High Temperature) growth processes and may include postgrowth treatments to change the color. All detected clarity treatments will be disclosed.

The QR code on the GIA LaboratoryGrown Diamond Report will link to GIA’s online Report Check Service which can be used to confirm that the information on a report matches what is in the GIA report database. The Report Check record for each GIA Laboratory-Grown Diamond Report will include educational material about the CVD and HPHT methods for growing laboratory-grown diamonds to help educate consumers and fulfill our mission of ensuring the public trust in gems and jewelry. GIA specifies ‘natural diamond’ on its grading reports for natural diamonds – the GIA Diamond Grading Report and the GIA Diamond Dossier. Any GIA Synthetic Diamond Grading Report issued since Jan. 1, 2018, may be returned and exchanged for the GIA Laboratory-Grown Diamond Report at no cost. Visit GIA.edu for an illustration of the GIA Laboratory-Grown Diamond Report.

WALLACE CHAN At 17, Wallace Chan founded his gemstone carving workshop in 1974. In 1987, he invented the renowned illusionary carving technique â&#x20AC;&#x153;Wallace Cutâ&#x20AC;?. After 8 years of research, he mastered titanium to create ethereal jewelry pieces then released the technology into the public domain. His innovation introduced titanium into the world of high jewelry to shape a new direction for modern jewelry making. He is the first Asian jewelry artist to exhibit at TEFAF, London Masterpiece, and Biennale des Antiquaires. He was invited to deliver talks at Harvard University, Central Saint Martins, the V&A Museum, and the Cooper Hewitt Museum. Recognized as a top jewelry artist and innovator, he is featured extensively in international media. His one-of-a-kind creations are philosophical and carry messages of the past to become the heritage of the future.

Yamachi Jewellery; Elegance Made in Turkey

Since 1965, from a manufacturing workshop to a true icon of contemporary luxury

he brand Yamachi Jewellery started in 1965, since then operating as a manufacturing workshop and wholesale store in Grand Bazar, and as a retail store in Nishantashi, the quarter of the Sisli District, on the European side of Instanbul, just a few steps from the famous Topkapi. In a few years, the company has become a high end brand in the jewellery industry and a true icon of

the contemporary luxury Made in Turkey, with its unique design and quality, thanks to a strong fashion team always targeting to create complete sets and parures, mixing elegance and modern trends. Like the pieces of the latest collections, with rings and bracelets contrariĂ¨, in yellow or red gold, and diamonds set like a laser cut along the profiles.

OROAREZZO 2019 CLOSES UNDER THE BANNER OF SYNERGIES BETWEEN TRADE SHOWS

REZZO – OROAREZZO, the show managed by Italian Exhibition Group at Arezzo Fiere e Congressi, came to a close with significant stability, yet more symbolic in light of a difficult market. “We have obtained positive results,” explained Ugo Ravanelli, CEO of Italian Exhibition Group, “thanks to the considerable effort made to achieve a single management for jewelry trade shows, which has strengthened the role of the platform IEG aimed for. A management that, at Arezzo, was clearly demonstrated in all its efficiency and which was substantially based on four mainstays: bringing the dates forward according to market strategies, investing, focusing on positioning and developing buyer incoming from abroad.” Thanks to this work, from 6th to 9th April, OROAREZZO grouped together and promoted the very best of Made in Italy gold and jewelry on an international scale. The expected figures were confirmed: over 450 guest buyers, traders from emerging and traditional markets, in attendance from 60 different countries due to the support of MISE (Italian Ministry of Economic Development) and ICE (Italian Trade Agency) as well as 500 exhibiting companies representing the best of Made in Italy jewelry production. The Show’s positioning, increasingly more transparent and defined both in terms of offer, which focuses on Italian manufacture, and on demand, which embraces countries from all over the world, received much appreciation.

The inflow from leading markets was good: first of all from the Middle East (with the United Arab Emirates, Saudi Arabia and Lebanon) but also from the USA, while Hong Kong, Germany and Spain remained stable. Business activities during the Show reflected the sector’s export trends highlighting, in fact, the United Arab Emirates in first place in the ranking of main outlet countries, especially for Arezzo jewelry production, with an increase in exports to Hong Kong (+4.2%) and US demand remaining stable. Due to IEG’s efforts, the event provided the chance to weigh up the Italian jewelry industry’s situation in the presence of all the sector’s interlocutors; from MISE – whose participation was further enhanced by the attendance of Prof. Michele Geraci, Undersecretary of State for Economic Development,– to company representatives. Confindustria Federorafi, Confartigianato, CNA and Confimi Industria, representing the entire Italian gold and jewelry manufacturing industry, formally asked the Government for more public investment in order to strengthen the leadership of Italian trade shows. The single platform’s coming gold and jewelry events managed by Italian Exhibition Group will be in Vicenza, with Vicenzaoro September from 7th to 11th September and once more in Arezzo from 26th to 28th October with Gold Italy.

ÂME opens its flagship store in Los Angeles Âme, a lab-grown diamond brand, has launched its flagship store at Westfield Century City Mall in Los Angeles, California, earlier this month, says a press-note from the company.

me has collaborated with renowned designers, musicians and fragrance creators, to create a retail environment that sets the tone for the brand’s planned expansion in the United States and globally. Alex Popov, Âme’s CEO, says: “The opening of our LA store marks the first permanent opportunity to reach our customers and invite them into this shared vision of what jewelry’s retail potential can be. Westfield Century City is a luxury hub for Los Angeles natives, as well as a key consumer tourist destination in the region, making it the perfect cross-section to engage our global audience”. Âme worked in collaboration with the esteemed architecture firm, Baranowitz+Kronenberg (B+K) to a create a unique design of its boutique. Custom-made display pods and hanging capsules allow customers to walk through the space among the jewelry pieces, each of which is presented within a state-of-the-art glass cloche. The space is designed to project refined simplicity, and to evoke a passion for craft and hand-made objects. B+K also collaborated with Anne Kyyro Quinn to develop 3D felt panels along the walls of the store, which are set against a reflective stainless-steel ceiling and mirrored back wall. Âme’s signature in-store scent was created by British perfume designer Azzi Glasser.

Fans Are Going to Freak Out Over Alex and Aniâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Newest Jewelry Collection

ame of Thrones fans, prepare to freak out! Alex and Ani launched a brand new collection of Game of Thrones-themed jewelry just in time for the eighth and final season premiere of the hit HBO show on Sunday, April 14. Game of Thrones has captivated millions of devoted fans, and now you can support your favorite house or character with a gorgeous bracelet, ring (which will be dropping later this month!), necklace, or pair of earrings that are embellished with iconic symbols from show. The 18-piece collection ranges from $39 to $69 and includes tons of Iron Throne-worthy styles, from a midnight silver Targaryen Charm Bangle with egg, dragon, and arrowhead charms to Lannister Post Earrings featuring their house sigil, the golden lion, to a Sansa Stark-inspired Trio Charm Necklace embellished with an Aventurine circle, wolf and spike, and more. Theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve even designed a Stark Beaded Bracelet for men so you and bae can rock your pieces together while cozying up for the premiere.

INSIDE DE BEERS’ LIGHTBOX DIAMONDS De Beers’ line of laboratory-grown diamonds, Lightbox, made its retail debut in the fall. Shortly afterward, GIA researcher, Dr. Sally Eaton-Magana, who has been identifying and analyzing lab-grown diamonds for 11 years, took a close look at the new De Beers-produced product for the Winter issue of Gems & Gemology.

ightbox diamonds are produced in quarter carat, half carat and full carat sizes in colorless, pink and blue, and are uniformly priced at $800 per carat. Eaton-Magana examined two colorless specimens of .24 ct and .26 ct, respectively. Both stones had color equivalent to G on the GIA diamond color scale, with cut grades of excellent and very good. Both were very high clarity, the equivalent of VVS2 on the GIA clarity scale. The smaller diamond had a pinpoint in a bezel facet, while the other had a tiny feather in a star facet. The laser-inscribed Lightbox logo (2 equilateral triangles base to base with an isosceles triangle in the middle) under the table – large enough to be easily visible with a microscope – would reduce the equivalent clarity grade to VS2. GIA Synthetic Diamond Grading Reports use ranges, rather than specific grades, to describe the color and clarity of laboratorygrown diamonds.

Magana confirmed that the Lightbox diamonds were grown using the chemical vapor deposition (CVD) process, which means they are Type IIa with no detectable nitrogen. “The identification criteria for high pressure, high temperature (HPHT) and CVD synthetics can be quite distinct from each other,” she explained, adding that synthetic products have become much more varied over the last 10-15 years. “When the GIA synthetic diamond grading report was first launched in 2007, CVD synthetics were not commercially available,” she noted. “The commercially available sizes of lab-grown diamonds have expanded such that both very large and very small stones are possible. Also, colorless to near-colorless synthetics were once quite rare and are now the majority seen at the lab.” Although Lightbox is new to the market, and the variety of lab grown diamonds is increasing, the fundamental identification

criteria have not changed. They are based on growth morphology and optical properties. “We also regularly conduct research on emerging products and GIA has a program to grow synthetics ourselves to stay ahead of any new trends,” she said. Similarly, the basic equipment for identification has not changed. Researchers and grading laboratory staff continue to rely on microscopy, fluorescence imaging, absorption spectroscopy, and photoluminescence (PL) spectroscopy. What has evolved, she said, is the speed and efficiency of these devices. The evolution of PL mapping capabilities is important, she explained, because it enables GIA to collect thousands of spectra at micron-sized intervals across the surface of a diamond in mere minutes. “This technology allows us to map the defect concentrations of synthetic diamond to visualize the growth sectors in HPHT

synthetics,” Eaton-Magana explained. “The recent ability to collect many thousands of PL spectra instead of just one spectrum on a diamond gives us opportunities to draw correlations that would not have been previously possible. We have also expanded our research into largely previously unexplored variables – such as what are the effects on spectra within the diamond at various temperatures and timescales; for example, exploring diamond’s luminescence at the nanosecond to millisecond time ranges.” She said that PL spectra showed the Lightbox diamonds were not subjected to post-growth HPHT processing to improve their color. The researchers noted that about 75% of all CVD-grown diamonds they encounter have been subjected to such treatment. This is because quite often these diamonds are grown with a brownish color, especially if the manufacturers attempt to grow them quickly. While the HPHT treatment process is effective in improving the color of CVD diamonds, the large amount of energy used to create sufficient heat and pressure can add significantly to the cost of production. The Lightbox products, however, are priced much lower than most other lab-grown diamonds in the market. Both diamonds showed visible red fluorescence in imaging by the DiamondView synthetic detector, but had no detectable fluorescence under long

wave UV light. The lab-grown diamonds did show tell-tale CVD growth striations, but they were difficult to spot, requiring careful DiamondView imaging. Lightbox lab-grown diamonds are readily identifiable as CVD by spectroscopic techniques, DiamondView imaging and, of course, the inscribed logo under the table, her article noted. Magana earned her doctoral degree in chemical engineering with Dr. John Angus, one of the early pioneers of CVD synthetic diamond growth. For her Ph.D. and post-doctoral work, she worked mainly on growing CVD synthetics for engineering and semiconductor applications. “While at my post-doc assignment, we collaborated with the Smithsonian Institution to study the phosphorescence of type IIb diamonds in their collection, including the Hope Diamond. With this introduction to gem diamonds, I wanted to transition into this field and was fortunate to obtain a position at GIA following my post-doctoral assignment,” Magana said. “Since then, I have spent much of my time delving into the physics of gem diamonds, concentrating on various treatments, detection methods, and distinguishing synthetics from their natural counterparts.” Source : GIA / Russell Shor

Lightbox is new to the market, and the variety of lab grown diamonds is increasing, the fundamental identification criteria have not changed. 93

AHLATCI HOLDING

IS AT THE TOP OF EXPORT IN TURKEY

AhlatcÄą Holding has become one of the most important actors not only of jewellery sector also in Turkey's economy. Successfully, it became one of the giants of gold export field and showed record performance in 2018. Shortly after the introduction of the giant manufacturing factory in Corum, a record rise in the export was seen and with that contribution AhlatcÄą Holding rose to the position of second largest gold jewelry exporter of Turkey jewellery industry.

he firms that were ranking the highest in the field of jewellery were awarded in the traditional Gala Night of the Istanbul Jewelry Show. Ranking second in Turkey jewellery industry and becoming one of the largest exporters of Turkey, Ahlatcı Holding had also been awarded in the Gala Night. Ahlatcı Holding showed an excellent performance in the year 2018 with a historical record export figure in the jewellery sector. Ahlatcı Holding Chairman Ahmet Ahlatcı made a statement in the night where the companies received their awards.

shifts in a day. We are proud to know that the gold jewelry produced in Çorum has completed the elegance of women all over the world.

We think that we do very good things for our country In addition, it is very important for us to contribute to the economy of our country with our exports. We think that we are doing very good things for our country. Since the day we were founded, we have an understanding that contributes to the

In the coming period, we will move our figures even higher Our sector exported 4.5 billion dollars last year. We have also contributed to this success with our performance. Hopefully, we will move our export figures even higher in the coming period.

Export is a sacred duty Our country needs export. We believe that every effort spent in order to increase our exports is sacred and we are working with 450 friends working in our factory in Çorum, with this awareness, making 3

Our country needs export. We believe that every effort spent in order to increase our exports is sacred and we are working with 450 friends working in our factory in Çorum, with this awareness, making 3 shifts in a day.

national economy by creating high added value and providing employment. Ahlatcı Holding will continue to contribute to the development of our country's economy with hundreds of our friends working together with us.

We contribute to the development of design awareness We think that one of the most important elements of producing high valueadded products is design. In order to be competitive in global markets, it must be our duty to support the development of design awareness. As Ahlatcı Holding, we attach special importance to this issue and support the designers. For this reason, we became the sponsor of 2 of the 10 designs in the traditional Jewelery Design Competition organized by the Association of Jewelery Exporters. Our sector has trained human resources and giant-scale factories equipped with modern production equipment. We are confident that our sector will be the world leader by using these advantages and producing high value-added products in which the design put at the forefront. With 450 friends in our factory, we will continue to work day and night to do our best to carry our sector to the world leader position.

In addition, it is very important for us to contribute to the economy of our country with our exports. We think that we are doing very good things for our country. AHLATCI METAL REFINERY'S

In Gold and Exchange Market;

15,000 m2 closed area establishment was built on 202,000 m2 land, which has a rafination capacity of 312 tons of gold annually. "Aqua Regia" (King Water) method was implemented in our facilities' rafination process for the production of pure gold. Also, our facility has pure silver production capacity of 468 tons per year, in which electrolytic process is used for silver production.

In 3rd of February 1984, Ahlatci Group of Companies was founded by our Board President Ahmet Ahlatci as "Ahmet Kuyumcu" which started as a single small jewelry retail shop in Egridere Bazaar, Corum, Turkey. Afterwards, Ahmet Kuyumcu has started to supply wholesale bracelets and wedding rings to Turkish local market retailers.

Our Analysis laboratory has the stateof-the-art technical equipment, which operates in compliance with ISO 17025 standards. Our laboratory has Authorized Grading Office Licence which was obtained from Turkish Goverment State Mint and Seal General Headquartes in 2008, and is servicing to customs of Ankara and all cities east of Ankara. AhlatcÄą Metal Refinery is an environmentally sensitive organization which has ISO 14001: 2004 Environmental Management System certification, and AMR has waste gas filtration and waste water treatment plants. Our waste water treatment plant has been designed to provide the desired level of compliance in terms of fisheries law, environmental law and water pollution control regulations. In compliance with our high quality production approach, on December 7, 2015, our refinery has been accredited to ISO 9001: 2008 Quality Management System. Likewise AMR also has been accredited to OHSAS 18001 Occupational Health and Safety Management System to ensure a safe working environment is provided in order to minimize the level of risks.

In 1992, Ahlatci Money Exchange and Precious Metals Company was founded and became one of the eight members of Turkish Republic Central Bank Money and Foreign Exchange Market. Since 1998, we have been transacting in domestic and international exchange markets as a member of Borsa Istanbul, which brings together all the exchanges operating in the Turkish capital markets under a single roof.. In 2008, as a first in Anatolia, with the authorisation of Turkish Goverment State Mint and Seal General Headquartes, obtained Authorized Grading Office Licence and began servicing to customs in Ankara and all cities east of Ankara. In 2012, Turkey's 3rd Precious metals refinery and foundry was established and began production in a single 15 thousand m2 (161,459 sqft) closed area factory.

UNMISSABLE THINGS TO DO IN

ISTANBUL

You have completed your commercial business in Istanbul. Before returning to your country, check out the other things you need to do in Istanbul. Discover Istanbul with our list of the best things to do on both the European and Asian sides of the city, including our pick of the must-see attractions and museums in the historical peninsula. While you'll also find the more obvious landmarks like the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque on here, we've included plenty of activities off the tourist trail, giving you the low-down on digging for antiques in hip Bomonti or watching an opera in KadÄąkĂśy, which we have named one of the coolest neighbourhoods in the world.

Museum

HAGIA SOPHIA What is it? Completed in the 6th

century on the orders of the Byzantine Emperor Justinian I, Hagia Sophia remained the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest cathedral for nearly a millennium until the completion of Seville Cathedral in 1520. Before being converted into a mosque in the 15th century and later into a museum in 1935, Hagia Sophia served as the centre of the Eastern Orthodox Church.

Why go? The Hagia Sophia is among Istanbul's most popular and iconic historic sites â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and for good reason: its massive, transcendent dome is breathtaking and can easily be gazed at for hours. Considered to be an architectural marvel even today, its walls are adorned by Byzantine mosaics featuring feature portaits of bygone emperors and representations of Christ. Don't miss: The are two runic inscriptions engraved into the marble parapets on the top floor gallery, thought to have been graffitied there by the personal bodyguards of the Byzantine Emperors during the Viking Age.

Shopping

GRANDBAZAAR What is it? Among the world's oldest and largest covered markets, the Grand Bazaar features thousands of shops spread across dozens of streets.

Why go? It's a worthy destination even for those not planning on buying anything, as the historic atmosphere of the widespread complex is its true appeal. Don't miss: If you're planning on making purchases, be sure to bargain and show no mercy.

Museum

MUSEUM OF INNOCENCE What is it? Inspired by renowned novelist Orhan

Pamuk's novel of the same name, the Museum of Innocence is nestled in the picturesque quarter of Ă&#x2021;ukurcuma, where much of the book transpires.

Why go? The winner of the European Museum of the Year Award in 2014, the Museum of Innocence is a must-see for readers of the book as well as anyone interested in the cultural and material history of Istanbul. The countless number of household objects and photographs displayed in the museum are connected to the bittersweet love story that unfolds in the novel.

100

Attractions, Historic buildings

BASILICA CISTERN What is it? One of Istanbul's most intriguing

attractions, the Basilica Cistern, or Yerebatan Sarnıcı as it's known in Turkish, was built by Emperor Justinian I in the 6th century to store up to 80,000m3 of water and channel it to nearby palaces.

Why go? Featuring hundreds of ancient Ionic and Corinthian columns, the cistern is a relic of the Byzantine Empire's water system that visitors can explore first-hand. The cool and dark underground complex is also a great way to escape the summer heat. .Don't miss: The cistern features two column bases of unknown origin emblazoned with the upside-down head of Medusa, leaving bewildered visitors to speculate why they were situated that way.

Attractions, Historic buildings

FLOWER PASSAGE What is it? Built in 1876, Çiçek Pasajı (Flower

Passage) is easily one of Istanbul's most beautiful arcades.

Why go? Its gorgeous interior is worth a stroll through, even while the waiters valiantly attempt to shuffle you into the beer halls and meyhanes lined along the sides. Don't miss: Though the Beyoğlu area offers much better dining spots, the beautiful setting of Çiçek Pasajı makes its worth it to sit down and enjoy a beer with some french fries while soaking in the nostalgia.

101

Museum

TOPKAPI PALACE What is it? Looming over the point where the

Golden Horn meets the Marmara Sea, Topkapı Palace was the primary residence of the Ottoman sultans for more than four centuries.

Why go? Among the gems of the historic peninsula, Topkapı's extensive rooms, chamber houses and fascinating objects, including the 86-carat Spoonmaker’s Diamond, make the museum a must-see. Don't miss: In addition to its extensive and illustrious permanent collections of weaponry, precious jewels and religious artifacts, it is a also home to a rotating cast of temporary exhibitions.

Music, classical and opera

SÜREYYA OPERA HOUSE What is it? Housed in a beautiful building built

by the politician Süreyya İlmen Pasha in 1927, the Süreyya Opera House is the prime location to catch an opera or a ballet on the Asian side of Istanbul.

Why go? Due to the fact that its stage remained incomplete, Süreyya functioned as a movie theatre and wedding hall for many years until its restoration in 2007. Now re-opened to fulfill its original purpose, Süreyya is worth a visit for its architecture alone. Nostalgia gleams from the walls of this building and its art deco foyer, which was modeled after the Champs-Elysées Theatre in Paris.

102

Museum

GALATA MEVLEVÄ° MUSEUM What is it? The oldest tekke (lodge) in Istanbul

to house members of the Mevlevi order, the adherents of Sufism, this 15th century building was converted into a museum in 1975 and remains an important cornerstore of Sufi culture.

Why go? A treasure trove of artifacts are on display at the museum, including musical instruments, calligraphy, Mevlevi clothing and accessories, though its prime draw is the weekly sema (whirling dervish) ceremony that entrances large numbers of visitors every Sunday at 17:00.

Don't miss: Tickets can be acquired at the door or on online from Biletix. Since the performances are open seating, arrive early to secure a front seat. The Lodge also occasionally hosts Ottoman classical music concerts.

Music

NARDIS JAZZ CLUB What is it? Known to be perhaps the go-to jazz bar in Istanbul, Nardis is situated at the foot of the Galata Tower.

Why go? Nardis features live jazz music from local and international acts practically every night and is a must for visiting jazz enthusiasts.

Don't miss: Nardis is a pretty intimate spot with a capacity of 120, so make sure you call them up in advance to reserve a table.

103

104

rowing up in Turkey, becoming a jeweler was far from the thoughts and dreams of a young Gurhan Orhan. Instead, always the “discoverer,” Gurhan pursued a variety of eclectic interests which included building hi-fi equipment, making watches in Switzerland and even operating a rock bar in Turkey. It was only when he held a piece of 24K gold that his passion for jewelry was born. It was in this sheet of shimmering metal (still carried in his wallet today!) that Gurhan envisioned a unique brand of jewelry transcending simple design; a brand connecting his customer with the values of ancient cultures.

Often referred to as a maverick, Gurhan defied the common wisdom advising him against working in 24K gold. It’s too soft, he was told. It’s too heavy and customers will never buy it, he heard time and time again. But Gurhan disagreed and studied the ancient craftsmen who were responsible for producing some of the world’s most magnificent and precious creations. By incorporating their techniques, Gurhan developed his own unique method of design and began producing designs that quickly gained popularity in the shops and bazaars around Turkey.

105

GURHAN THE BRAND Shortly after Gurhan began his fledgling business, Fiona Tilley, an Australian business woman traveling on vacation, discovered the jewelry and was instantly enthralled with the hand-crafted quality and evocative beauty. Fiona laughingly admits to a bit of stalking, but when the two finally met they discovered a host of common interests, including their passion for the artisanal design found in ancient cultures. Today, Gurhan is known for reincarnating the use of 24K gold in modern fine jewelry design. Together with wife and business partner Fiona, they operate GURHAN ENTERPRISE, which includes retail, wholesale and private label, from their Manhattan headquarters. Gurhan can also be found many days in his beloved Atelier in the trendy Tribeca neighborhood of New York City. It is here, hammer in hand, that the renowned designer spends his time putting the finishing touch on a clientâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s custom design, or envisioning his next One-of-a-Kind. Unlike many others, Gurhan is one of the few award-winning designers who continues to work on a daily basis with his customers. It is this intimate and emotional connection that sets him apart as a designer who truly understands what women want and earns him the reputation as a Renaissance Man.

HOW IT'S MADE GURHAN is one of the only major jewelry brands that hand crafts every piece in its own company workshop. It is here that skilled artisans - all trained by Gurhan himself â&#x20AC;&#x201D; produce outstanding designs with an unwavering dedication to superlative quality. Working in sterling silver, 24K gold and other high karat metals, every piece is treated with individual care and attention. Like so many of his clients, Gurhan has always believed in the value of hand-made craftsmanship and continues to offer One-of-a-Kinds and custom designs.

106

MADONNA'S SINGLE INVOLVES TALISMAN FROM BEE GODDESS Madonna unveiled her new single “Medellín” on April 24 with wearing a Bee Goddess magical ’Eye Light’ talisman. Bee Goddess Eye Light collection is a tribute to the infinite light of the soul. Symbolically speaking... As a symbol of awakening, enlightenment, and rebirth, the eye connects us to our truth—our soul. Its iris is emblematic of the tiny spark of the divine within, the power of our consciousness; it is the metaphorical window to the light of the soul. It symbolizes the dawning of a higher spiritual consciousness; gifting you new insights for vitality, growth and opportunities

Eye See You The eye is also a symbol of intuition, clairvoyance, and prophecy— literally, a “vision of the future.” It empowers us with the knowledge of the ultimate truth within everything, offering divine understanding and protection. Shine your Soul’s Light Brighter Madonna. Let your heavenly eyes be windows of your inner light to guide you to new horizons in your soul’s destination. See yourself and life through new and magical lenses and always shine that divine light! Receive the hidden light within all creation, perceive all things in their divine glory to nurture your soul. You will be channeling energy in the most effective way, being at the right place at the right time, saying the right words at the right time always being guided by your inner light.

107

NANCY LIU TO BECOME FOREVERMARK CEO De Beers Group announced that Nancy Liu will become the new Forevermark CEO

e Beers Group announced that Nancy Liu will become the new Forevermark CEO, stepping up from her current role as COO and taking over the day to day responsibility for the leading diamond brand. Stephen Lussier, Executive Vice-President of Consumer & Brands for De Beers Group, will continue to oversee the strategic role Forevermark plays within the Group’s brand portfolio as Forevermark Chairman. However, by stepping away from the day to day accountability for Forevermark, Stephen will be able to increase his focus on shaping De Beers Group’s strategy at the consumer level. Stephen Lussier said: “This is a moment of great

At Forevermark, we’ve come a very long way in a very short space of time, yet we believe the future will be even more exciting. 108

opportunity for diamonds. As symbols of nature, uniqueness and positive social impact, they have huge potential to inspire consumers of all ages, and with a new CEO at the helm for Forevermark I will be able to spend more time ensuring we build even stronger consumer connections with these miracles of nature across all our activities. “Fortunately, we have an outstanding candidate to take over as CEO of Forevermark. As the brand sees rapid growth in Asia, Nancy’s exceptional expertise and knowledge of the region provide us with excellent continuity as Forevermark goes from strength to strength.” Nancy Liu said: “At Forevermark, we’ve come a very long way in a very short space of time, yet we believe the future will be even more exciting. The brand has taken a number of bold steps in recent years, and the positive consumer response to these show that there’s a real resonance with our approach. As we continue to develop consumer concepts, campaigns, products and designs, Forevermark will play a vital role in the diamond ecosystem for diamantaires, designers, jewellers and consumers, and I’m delighted I’ll be leading the business as it writes its next chapter.”

NEW DIAMOND E-LEARNING PROGRAM It gives retailers the tools and language to become true storytellers.

he Diamond Producers Association announces the launch of a new e-learning program for diamonds, “Behind the Brilliance of Diamonds.” Developed to help all U.S. retailers, the hour-long program – split into three informative modules – offers educational material and quizzes, going beyond the 4Cs to highlight the intangible value of natural diamonds, billion-year-old treasures of the earth. “The Diamond Producers Association’s e-learning program, ‘Behind the Brilliance of Diamonds,’ offers a clear and concise, open platform for the industry,” said Grant Mobley, DPA’s trade relations lead. “Whether you have been working with diamonds for one day or 20 years, the program relates compelling stories about the history of natural diamonds, easyto-digest and well-researched facts, and memorable details about the important benefits that the natural diamond industry makes to the world.” The initial beta launch has yielded positive feedback. “Getting back to basics, often we get so caught up in the technical aspects of our career that we forget the emotional aspect. Thank you for bringing the reality of relationship-selling back to the forefront,” said Cheryl Worcester of Days Jewelers. Pierre Soucy of Robert Richer added, “I think this is both a timely and much needed program made easy and readily available for the industry by the DPA. In the past decade the jewelry industry (as a whole) has much neglected relationships between products, partners, and how they relate to the public. This program is a big gesture in bridging that void.

DIAMOND-STUDDED WATCH BREAKS GUINNESS RECORD AT BASELWORLD

oronet has been awarded a Guinness World Records title for “most diamonds set on a watch.” The winning piece, called Mudan, is described on a press release as “an incredible art-piece featuring 15,858 diamonds.” The title was awarded at the 2019 Baselworld watch and jewelry trade fair. Yet again exceeded expectations at the 2019 Baselworld watch and jewelry trade fair. The brand was awarded its 9th Guinness World Records with the ‘most diamonds set on a watch’. Coronet is already a proud title holder of previous 8 Guinness World Records for innovative diamond creations, including the most valuable Guitar featuring 1.6kg of 18K gold and 400 carats of diamonds.

The watch is set in 18-karat gold with artist Reena Ahluwalia’s diamond painting on the dial. The watch is inspired by Peonies, as they symbolize nobility, honor and wealth. Peony is known as the “king of the flowers” in Chinese culture. Aaron Shum, founder of Coronet and president of Aaron Shum Jewelry Ltd., said, “Since 2015, CORONET is continuously surprising jewelers and fashion lovers at BaselWorld when we unveiled the dazzling Diamond Guitar. “This is the ninth time that Coronet has been honored with a GUINNESS WORLD RECORDS title. We are proud to showcase our one-of-a-kind ‘Mudan’ watch with artist Reena Ahulwalia’s masterpiece on the watch’s dial – a hyper realistic painting of a diamond.” The Mudan has a total of 50.01 carats of diamonds.

109

LUXURY GROUP LVMH REPORTS JEWELRY REVENUE GROWTH IN Q1

he Watches & Jewelry business group of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton recorded revenue growth in the first quarter of 2019, driven by the performance of its jewelry, though the group lagged behind other product categories. Bvlgari is said to have "made strong progress" in its own stores. Reported revenue for the category increased 9% in Q1 2019 to €1.05 billion ($1.18 billion) from €959 million ($1.08 billion) in Q1 2018, with organic growth (minus the effect of currency rates) rising by 4%. LVMH as a whole recorded revenue of €12.5 billion ($14.14 billion) for the first quarter of 2019, an increase of 16%, while organic growth was 11% compared to the same period of 2018. The company pointed to "the buoyant environment of the beginning of this year, albeit marked by

110

geopolitical uncertainties" to account for its strong performance. They said the trends observed in 2018 continued throughout the first quarter, with all geographic regions are experiencing good growth. Bvlgari's success was driven by its iconic jewelry lines Serpenti, Divas’Dream, Lvcea and its new Fiorever collection. Chaumet unveiled its new Liens Evidence creations in gold and diamonds. LVMH notes that, "The innovative products presented by LVMH’s watch brands at the Baselworld Watch & Jewelry Fair were very well received, including Hublot’s Classic Fusion Ferrari GT watch, Bvlgari’s Serpenti Seduttori and Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic watches, TAG Heuer’s connected watch model for golfers, and Zenith’s new Defy Inventor and Defy El Primero 21 Carbon models."

The company pointed to "the buoyant environment of the beginning of this year, albeit marked by geopolitical uncertainties" to account for its strong performance.

111

A Journey of Colour, Brilliance and Exquisite Craftsmanship

or more than a century, six generations of the Boghossian family have committed themselves to creating fine jewellery that marries rare and precious gemstones with exquisite execution.

The Silk Collection, consisting of 11 sets, pays homage to the Boghossian family’s predecessors, Armenian gem traders from Mardin, Turkey who traversed the Silk Road to eventually settle in Switzerland.

Based in Geneva and with stores in London, Gstaad and Hong Kong, Boghossian’s expertise lies in the curation of its collection of exceptional fine gems. The jewellery house is also celebrated for its mastery of revolutionary craftsmanship such as the Inlay or its proprietary Kissing technique, in which one gemstone is set on top of another. The Merveilles, is another groundbreaking technique for near-invisible gemstone setting.

Boghossian’s Hong Kong-based creative director, Edmond Chin, worked closely with the family to design the new line. Each setin the Silk Collection was inspired by a masterpiece of ancient silk weavers or art and culture from key oases along the trade route, from Xi’an, China to Venice, Italy.

Last October, in the midst of London’s hectic autumn art season, the jewellery house introduced a new high-jewellery collection inspired by the Silk Road. The launch event, held at Whitehall’s Banqueting House, took place during a unique surrealistic dinner crafted by Charles Kaisin, while models dressed in Stephane Rolland outfits each displayed one of the high-jewellery sets from the Silk Collection.

112

As with all Boghossian jewellery, some of the world’s rarest gems, gathered by the Boghossian clan from all over the world, appear in the new collection. The finished Silk Collection sees metal, hardstones and gemstones stream together seamlessly in an intricate tapestry of brilliance and colour. The jewels also pay tribute to Boghossian’s own origins in Mardin. A necklace with interlaced rows of aquamarines set in diamonds pays homage to the intricate motifs found in the town’s limestone architecture.

113

GRAFF UNVEILS HUGE 302-CARAT DIAMOND FROM THE LESEDI LA RONA

The 302.37 carat Graff Lesedi La Rona is “the largest highest colour, highest clarity diamond ever certified".

raff Diamonds, which in September 2017 purchased the worldfamous 1,109-carat Lesedi La Rona for $53 million ($47,777 per carat), has unveiled the 302.37 carat Graff Lesedi La Rona – “the largest highest colour, highest clarity diamond ever certified by the GIA, and the world’s largest square emerald cut diamond”, according to Graff.

114

The diamond and jewellery house said that it took Graff ’s expert team “over 18 months

of meticulous craftsmanship” using “highly sophisticated software” to cut and polish the stone. Alongside the Graff Lesedi La Rona, Graff also cut and polished a a total of 66 more “satellite” diamonds from the Lesedi La Rona. These diamonds, ranging in size from under a carat to in excess of 100 carats, are inscribed with “Graff, Lesedi La Rona”. The Lesedi La Rona was discovered by Lucara at their

Karowe mine in Botswana in November 2015. Back in June 2016, the stone failed to find a buyer at a Sotheby’s auction. It missed its reserve price of $70 million as the highest bid came in at $61 million. The huge gem was sold to Graff in September 2017 for $53 million. It is the largest gem-quality rough diamond to have been discovered in over a century.

2019 CIBJO CONGRESS TO TAKE PLACE IN BAHRAIN

CIBJO, the World Jewelry Confederation, will hold its 2019 annual congress in Manama, the capital of the Kingdom of Bahrain, from November 18 to November 20. Pre-congress meetings will be held November 16 and 17, and the congress will follow the World Pearl Forum, which is due to take place on November 14 and 15.

he CIBJO Annual Congress will be hosted by DANAT, the Bahrain Institute for Pearls and Gemstones, which is dedicated to developing the local and regional pearl and gemstone industry, and operates one of the world’s most sophisticated laboratories in the field.

The CIBJO Congress is also where the program of World Jewelry Confederation Education Foundation (WJCEF), relating to responsible and sustainable activities in the industry, and CIBJO’s ongoing cooperation with the United Nations and its development program is reported upon.

The official venue and hotel of the 2019 CIBJO Congress is the Four Seasons Hotel Bahrain Bay.

Located on an archipelago in the Arabian Gulf, Bahrain is home to a pearling industry dating back to at least the 3rd century B.C., giving it claim to what is almost certainly the world’s longest unbroken fine jewelry tradition. The natural pearl oyster beds to the north of the island, as well as Bahrain’s advantageous position as a port city on the trade routes between east and west, led to its old capital of Muharraq becoming the centre of the world’s first pearl-dominated economy. Today, the country remains the world’s preeminent producer of natural pearls, and also is a jewelry centre in its own right, serving the markets of the region.

CIBJO congresses serve as the official gathering place for the World Jewelry Confederation’s Assembly of Delegates, and are also the venue for the annual meetings of CIBJO’s sectoral commissions, where amendments can be introduced to the organization’s definitive directories of international industry standards for diamonds, colored stones, pearls, gem labs, precious metals, coral and responsible sourcing, known as the Blue Books.

“We are delighted to accept DANAT’s invitation and to bring the CIBJO Congress to Bahrain,” said Gaetano Cavalieri, CIBJO president. “What participants will discover is a country and an industry that blends its millennia-old legacy and tradition with cutting-edge technology and a vision for the future. We invite members of the gem and jewelry sectors from around the world to join us in Bahrain and be part of the discussion about how our industry will operate moving forward. Great changes are taking place, creating a series of challenges that will shape our business. The CIBJO Congress is where we can meet them together.” A dedicated CIBJO Congress 2019 website will be launched shortly.

115

DMCC CHARTERS PATH FOR GROWTH IN THE PRECIOUS METALS INDUSTRY AT DPMC IN DUBAI • Around 300 industry experts gathered to discuss the factors and opportunities shaping the precious metals market

• Launched during the conference, the ‘World Silver Survey 2019’ report details supply and demand statistics for key sectors of the silver market • DPMC 2019 was officially endorsed by the UAE Ministry of Economy

MCC, the world’s leading Free Zone for commodities trade and enterprise, held the eighth edition of its annual industry-leading Dubai Precious Metals Conference (DPMC) today with the endorsement of the UAE Ministry of Economy. As one of the most content driven events in the calendar of global precious metals, the conference welcomed around 300 industry experts to discuss many of the key factors and opportunities shaping the precious metals market. Held under the theme ‘Unlocking Growth in Global Precious Metals’, the conference was inaugurated by Gautam Sashittal, CEO, DMCC, who said: “Global economic growth is slowing, trade conflicts persist, and recent geopolitical events have generated widespread uncertainty in markets. As an industry, we must rise to the challenge through being innovative, and by exhibiting a willingness to change, adapt and evolve. This is why DPMC is so important – its themes are synced with the priorities of the industry. Ultimately, DPMC is the platform to discover how, collectively, we can move forward, advance the industry and grow the precious metals sector as a whole.”

116

The keynote speech was delivered by H.E. Juma Mohamed Al Kait, Assistant Undersecretary, UAE Ministry of Economy, who said: “The gold, diamond and precious metals sector is one of the most important for the country’s economic diversification and is expected to witness significant growth in the coming period as part of the UAE’s diversification objectives. The UAE accounts for about 14 per cent of the world's gold trade, and Dubai in particular is rising through the ranks as a purchase and investment destination as it accounts for 20 per cent of world sales of precious metals. The strategic location on the trade routes of East and West makes the UAE an important gateway that connects the producing countries, the major manufacturing centres and the largest consuming markets in the world. DMCC plays a very crucial role as a leading hub for commodities and for putting the UAE on the world map as the leader in precious metal trading. DMCC's commitment to creating a diverse and robust trading environment aligns with the UAE's mission to be a diversified economy and promote economic growth and development."

The conference welcomed around 300 industry experts to discuss many of the key factors and opportunities shaping the precious metals market.

ANTAKYA'S MYRAS IS AT ATASAY Atasay 's new collection that revives the historical and cultural values of Anatolian lands with its designs, Myras Collection is expected to meet jewelry lovers in May. In “Antakya: The City of Mosaic’s Collection”, the unique culture of Antakya and historical artifacts of the Antakya Mosaic Museum are immortalized as a form of jewellery. Antakya: The City of Mosaic’s Collection brought to life with in-depth studies of Atasay’s awarded designer Archaeologist Editor Nezih Başgelen and Fashion Consultant Özlem Süer’s broad knowledge of fashion world, color and graphics. With an endlessness of life meaning; tree figures that were engraved in traditional Antakya houses , reverse tulip motifs symbolizing sadness in Anatolia, Antakya city symbol as lily flower and evil-eye mosaic are meeting in Atasay's Myras Antakya: The City of Mosaic’s Collection offering women the culture in fashion with its story and designs. The Kaicy Necklace Inspired by the Evil-Eye Mosaic says “What You Think Turns To You” Inspired by the Kemgöz mosaic of the 3rd century that exhibited in Turkey's first and world's second largest mosaic museum Antakya Mosaic Museum, Kaicy necklace’s philosophy is remarkable. In the mosaic designed to keep away from evil, an aye that pierced with spear and wrapped around animals is picturized. The evil eye subject is a common subject having been used since ancient times to today. In the design that meets the prominent medallion form and the chain necklace, there is a mosaic textured eye. The Eye is surrounded by wave forms as it does around the mosaic. In the necklace chain there is also a written Greek world “Kaicy” that means “you too.” Especially in ancient times such mosaics are used in public areas where people interact with other people. Atasay’s Kaicy necklace is a jewel that can hang around any time of the day and it can send back to negative feelings and energies that belong the to one who is looking. The piece is a timeless piece that will enter the collections of jewellers as a living Anatolian jewellery.

117

118

MONAN JEWELRY "Each and every gemstone that captivates and enchants us with its glittering splendor is a unique miracle of nature. The masters who painstakingly set these one of a kind gems into metals are virtuosi of an unnamed art form. When nature’s miracles meet art through timeless design and boundless imagination, we see and believe in the magic of jewels."

Müge ONAN

üge Onan is acutely in-tune with her senses, constantly striving for perfection.

Her passion and desire for diamonds and jewelry leads her to have her own distinguished creations. After working for worldwide known jewelry houses, she finally has her own brand in 2014. As she is the co-founder and creative director of the brand, her collections combine noble taste with creative flair, interpreting the colors of the gems from an original point of view. Each color corresponds to an experience, to a captured moment or impression and desire for beauty and love.

Once Upon A Time Romantic, naïve, pure, elegant.. Once Upon a Time is the collection of magical fairy tales. Inspired from the pure love between the prince and the princess in all fairy tales such as Snow White, Little Mermaid, Cinderella, Sleeping Beauty and many other legendary stories. In other words Once Upon A Time Collection means style, through a classic, refined and exclusive jewelry for the 21st century queens and princesses. The Collection will bring jewelry to a totally new concept of “excellence, romantic style and personality”.

119

Rose cut diamonds are the heros of the collection. Sophisticated and elegant creations meet with the rarest diamonds and the collection introduces new, innovative, and exquisitely detailed artisanship for the todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s princesses and queens.

Ode To Colors A shimmering journey into a colorful world.. Color is the perfect word to describe Monan Ode To Colors Collection Ode To Colors collection is a tribute to mother nature. Inspired by the array of bright colors of the nature, her magical tales, romantic gardens and its current breathtaking vitality, Ode To Colors Collection embraces the flawless artistry of the past to create an extraordinary world of contemporary designs. Diamonds, precious and semiprecious stones, coral and hard stones create a perfect mix in an elegant and stunning Monan Jewelry. The freshness of each piece is a pleasure for the eyes, a perfect gift to enhance the beauty of a woman.

Ottoman Ottoman Collection is a huge tribute to the Ottoman style

120

jewelry craftmanship more than 500 years. Elegantly crafted rose cut diamonds with a very special technique called Heritage arouse in the hands of very special craftman. The West meets the East in the Ottoman Collection. In essence, the Heritage secret lies in its ability to communicate a sense of Turkish heritage blended with unique and unusual design. Very special edition and one of a kind desings catch the eye in this collection. Each piece in the Ottoman Collection carries the trace of an impeccable craftmanship. Monan uncovers this magnificent handcraftsmanship skill passed on from generations to generations through crafting many traditional and contemporary creations with the ancient technique of rose cut diamond on its journey of perfection.

Black Kingdom Black Kingdom collection is the continuation of Once Upon A Time, but this time inspired not from the innocent princess, on the contrary by the dark world in the fairy tales.

My passion and desire for diamonds and jewelry leads me to have my own distinguished creations. MĂźge Onan The aesthetic of the designs reflecting the world of tales may appear much sharper this time, but when looked in-depth at Black Kingdom, the collection is based on the philosophy of Yin and Yang. Everything has two polarities inseparable from each other. Love / hate, good / bad, female / male are some polarities and Black Kingdom designs are seeking to reveal the relationship between these dualities. Therefore Black Kingdom captures the contrast of black and white. White diamonds on black edged gold become extremely dramatic creating a strong contrast. Contrast is also dominant in the designs and craftsmanship of the Black Kingdom Collection. Just like the past and future being opposites but inseparable, the craftsmanship of the Black Kingdom

blends hundreds of years of Ottoman palace techniques with contemporary and elegant designs. And this union is a primal, never been used before Monan. We will mention about Ottoman palace technique Given that today there are limited masters able to use the Ottoman palace technique, blending dazzling diamonds with black gold in unexpected elegance Black Kingdom designs and craftsmanship are also unique. As the Yin Yang philosophy states, polarities start movement in life. Black Kingdom designs start movement with contrasts but ultimately simple and at the same time very provocative designs are created.

121

倀爀攀猀猀䴀愀挀栀椀渀攀

䈀愀氀氀猀䐀椀愀洀漀渀搀䌀甀琀琀椀渀最

䈀愀氀氀猀䴀愀欀椀渀最䴀愀挀栀椀渀攀匀䈀䴀ⴀ䴀

匀䐀䌀䴀㜀堀⬀䌀

䘀爀漀洀磰 ⸀㈀㔀洀洀吀椀氀氀㘀洀洀

䘀爀漀洀㈀洀洀吀椀氀氀㄀㠀洀洀

㈀洀洀㄀㌀洀洀

䐀椀愀洀漀渀搀䌀甀琀琀椀渀最圀椀爀攀 ⴀ 倀椀瀀攀 ⴀ 䌀栀愀椀渀匀䐀䌀䴀

匀栀漀眀刀漀漀洀

䘀愀挀琀漀爀礀

䄀琀愀琀‫ﰀ‬爀欀䄀瘀攀渀甀⸀ 䴀愀爀洀愀爀愀䤀渀搀甀猀琀爀椀愀氀匀椀琀攀䰀䈀氀漀挀欀一漀㨀㌀、欀椀琀攀氀氀椀䬀‫ﰀ‬‫ﰀ‬欀攀欀洀攀挀攀 ⴀ 、匀吀䄀一䈀唀䰀⼀吀唀刀䬀䔀夀吀攀氀㨀 ⬀㤀㈀㄀㈀㐀㤀㐀㐀㐀㘀⼀䌀攀氀氀㨀㔀㐀㤀㐀㤀㐀㐀㐀㘀䘀愀砀㨀 ⬀㤀㈀㄀㈀㐀㤀㐀㐀㐀㘀㄀䔀ⴀ洀愀椀氀㨀椀渀昀漀䀀猀琀攀攀氀欀愀氀椀瀀⸀挀漀洀 122

眀眀眀⸀猀琀攀攀氀欀愀氀椀瀀⸀挀漀洀

䬀甀礀甀洀挀甀欀攀渀琀圀漀爀欀匀栀漀瀀䈀氀漀挀欀㄀猀琀⸀ 漀漀爀㔀琀栀⸀ 猀琀爀攀攀琀一漀㨀㄀㠀夀攀渀椀戀漀猀渀愀 ጠ 䤀匀吀䄀一䈀唀䰀ⴀ吀唀刀䬀䔀夀吀攀氀㨀 ⬀㤀㈀㄀㈀㘀㌀㄀㜀㜀䌀攀瀀㨀 ⬀㤀㔀㐀㌀㐀㤀㐀㐀㐀㘀䔀ⴀ洀愀椀氀㨀猀琀攀攀氀猀愀氀攀猀䀀猀琀攀攀氀欀愀氀椀瀀⸀挀漀洀

123

124