one
fan’s written
ultimate +
pilgrimage
designed
by
alyson
to
aberdeen
stejskal
Part I. from the muddy banks of the wishkah
2
arriving in aberdeen
4
breakwater oysters
Part II. retrospect
6
bruises on the fruit
8
kurt’s house
Part III. something in the way
10
young street bridge
12
endless, nameless
ABERDEEN A N I R VA N A FA N ’ S M E C C A One fan’s ultimate pilgrimage to see where it all began
In a small, dreary logging town in the aptly the
named
Grays
turbulent
Harbor
history
of
County a
band
lies that
singlehandedly changed the face of music.
Over
the
have
slowed
years,
enthusiasts
the
down, like
influx
of
but
die-hard
myself
still
tourists Nirvana make
the
ultimate pilgrimage to Aberdeen just to get a glimpse into the past to see where it all began.
02
ARRIVING IN ABERDEEN //
03
first thing’s first.....
Before I started my lengthy journey I decided I needed some food.
As I drove into town, I stopped to take some pictures [naturally]. As I was taking photos, I
happened
to
stumble
across
Breakwater
Seafood & Chowder, and thought to myself, this could either be a crappy dive or a diamond in the ruff
[pearl in the oyster if you will].
It was the best meal of my life.
And
what
made
it
even
better
was
eating
amongst the Aberdeen locals, some of them well into their 70s and 80s. I kept wondering if they had known Kurt growing up. If they were friends
with
his
parents
and
grandparents.
Had they had a conversation with him before? Did they know what he was really like?
Before I left, I had to use the restroom. It just
so
happened
that
the
women’s
restroom
was out of order, so I had to use the men’s room.
I
couldn’t
help
but
wonder
if
I
was
using the same bathroom that Kurt Cobain had years ago... Weird.
04
BREAKWATER OYSTERS //
The best damn fried oysters in the Pacific Northwest.
THEN, I JUST DROVE AROUND
R E V E L I N G I N T H E M O M E N T,
LISTENING TO IN BLOOM AS
A STORM APPROACHED
06
BRUISES ON THE FRUIT //
IN BLOOM Sell the kids for food Weather changes moods
We can have some more
Spring is here again
Nature is a whore
Reproductive glands
Bruises on the fruit Tender age in bloom
He’s the one Who likes all the pretty songs
He’s the one
And he likes to sing along
Who likes all the pretty songs
And he likes to shoot his gun
And he likes to sing along
But he knows not what it mean
And he likes to shoot his gun
Knows not what it mean
But he knows not what it mean
And I say
Knows not what it mean
He’s the one
And I say
Who likes all the pretty songs
He’s the one
And he likes to sing along
Who likes all the pretty songs
And he likes to shoot his gun
And he likes to sing along
But he knows not what it mean
And he likes to shoot his gun
Knows not what it mean
But he knows not what it mean
And I say yeah
Knows not what it mean And I say yeah
07
I
WENT
TO
THE
LITTLE
YELLOW
HOUSE ON EAST FIRST STREET WHERE
KURT
GREW
U P.
TRANSPORTED
IT
BACK
IN KURT’S SHOES.
WAS
IN
LIKE
TIME.
BEING
I
WAS
KURT’S CHILDHOOD HOME
E 1 S T. S T R E E T
ABERDEEN, WA 98520
A
few
home
10
YOUNG STREET BRIDGE //
blocks is
the
from
Kurt’s
infamous
childhood
Young
I was finally able to see the exact
Street
same picturesque spot that Kurt saw.
Bridge. Subject of numerous tales of
It definitely made the song and the
Nirvana folklore.
lyrics more meaningful.
I couldn’t believe I was standing on
I have never felt more serene as I
the muddy banks, standing underneath
did standing underneath the bridge.
THE bridge. The same secluded hideout
I
that inspired Something in the Way,
of faded blue Keds sneakers that I
that may or may not have housed Kurt
was wearing that day. Dirt from the
Cobain during his time in Aberdeen.
muddy banks still caked on the sides.
still
have
the
threadbare
pare
I
don’t think I’ll every throw away
those sneakers, no matter how dirty or
old
or
unwearable
they
may
be.
I walked all over Aberdeen in those shoes. I was in Kurt’s shoes while I was wearing those. It’s something I’ll never forget.
11
SOMETHING I N T H E W AY
Even
though
it’s
been
years
since
Kurt’s
years
since
Nirvana
more
than
20
and
20
death, played
their
last show and sang their last note, the history and legacy they left is still
alive.
and
well
The
raw,
in
It’s
certainly
Aberdeen,
youthful
alive
Washington.
energy,
and
even
the cloud of pain and heartbreak, is still palpable.