Somaliland - Nomadic Passage

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SSO M O M SOM A L I L I L A L I L ALIL A N D AND * * * * * * * * * * * *

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By Amal Dirie * * * * * * *

Jigjiga Yar, Hargeisa

N o m a d i c Pa s s age

R ura l Out sk ir ts Today, the hut has indefinitely morphed into incorporating a variety of materials within its construction, altering its overall traditional vernacular shape and natural conventions.

Different dwelling typologies have emerged, such as the ‘sandaqad’,which are shelters constructed out of corrugated sheet metal. The newly introduced materials result in the creation of planar, box-like shelters. These temporary huts within the city, such as Hargeisa, have taken a semi-permanent status, crossing into the threshold of sedentary dwellings.

While residential areas known as ‘daar’ use an array of widely available materials such as concrete or bricks, these brandnew, rapidly produced buildings change the attitude people have towards sustainable measures, where they forget the feasibility of locally sourced materials.

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Wa t e r C o n s e r v a t i o n & L a n d P e r s e r v a t i o n

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N o m a d i c Pa s s age

Liverst ock M a rk et Pastoralists take pride in their camels. They are incredibly versatile and beautiful creatures, enduring the harshest heats. In the dry arid climate of Somaliland, they can go for long periods without having water. A typical camel can last for months without needing water. A standard camel usually draws energy from the fat stored within its hump, acting as its stored energy source, similar to having an extra tank of gas for one’s car. Camels with deflated humps have gone without food or drink for quite some time, and as soon as they come into contact with water resources, their humps inflate back up over a couple of days. For pastoralists’ camels are their prime source of income. To put it in perspective, one camel costs around 1000USD. Typical pastoralist herds have around 10-30 stronger camels with a many baby camels along the way.

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Wa t e r C o n s e r v a t i o n & L a n d P e r s e r v a t i o n

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Interior of a hut that uses disscarded materials to create shading Livestock Market, Hargeisa, Somaliland photograph by author

N o m a d i c Pa s s age

Laa s

Gee l

The paintings have been present for many centuries, although It was only until 2002 that they have received notice from an international and tourist-based audience. The massif of Laas Geel stands as a towering, granitic mountain amongst the arid landscape. On the ground level, near the forefront of the mountain, are the intersection of two ‘wadis’ (seasonal beds that remain dry except for the rainy season). The cave’s located on a permanent water table along the surface of merging river beds and momentary water foreshores. The literal translation of the Somali term “Las Geel” means “The dromedaries’ (Somali camel) water hole.”

These paintings depict many anamorphic figures along the walls; images of bovines (resembles cows & oxen) are predominant along with space. Some of the bulls are seen having large necks or thorax areas decorated with different patterned garments.

Some of the garments show stripes and others with a radial, circular pattern.

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Wa t e r C o n s e r v a t i o n & L a n d P e r s e r v a t i o n

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N o m a d i c Pa s s age

B erb era “Berbera from the water looked becking. The sea was calm and turquoise, and the level shoreline was yellow sand. A few alms and pepper trees grew around the town, and the houses appeared pure white, their blemishes concealed by distance.”1 We had to keep our windows shut with the air conditioning on full blast. It was scorching hot, the temperature on the outside of the car surpassing 45°C, and was still climbing. I was worried about the condition of the vehicle, wondering whether it would be in good shape to continue on the journey. As we emerged within the city, I was shocked to see people walking to the market and carry about their daily routines outdoors, despite the unbearable temperature. I noticed that the city even had this economic drive, the need to expand as new buildings and development undergo construction. The shorefront was a mix between shipping docks and beaches where people were swimming to cool down from the heat. The industrial prospect of the seaport extended Somaliland’s connectivity with the rest of the Gulf Peninsula.

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Laurence, Margaret. 1963. The Prophet’s Camel Bell. 1st ed. Toronto: McClelland and Stewart.

Wa t e r C o n s e r v a t i o n & L a n d P e r s e r v a t i o n

S heik h The road on the way to Sheik wound up to the heavens, spiraling upwards in a continuous, circular motion. It felt like a sacred ascension, especially coming from the hot plains of Berbera.The drastic elevation changes made the temperature surprisingly much colder, where it was about 15 °C with strong, forceful winds coming from all sides. It was odd experiencing varying landscapes all within one country. There were also subliminal religious scripts written on large boards along the road, sort of like spiritual wayfinding tools, that supported this idea of divine awakening.

The vegetation sprouted uncontrollably, encompassing patches of life and drawing animals towards its plentiful, beautiful nature. Plants such as aloe vera and other shrubs grew abundantly along the cliff’s side. Nomadic huts were also situated profoundly on the mountain’s sides, planted firmly to prevent the winds from shaking them vigorously.

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Mountain Range . Sheikh, Somaliland photography taken by author

N o m a d i c Pa s s age

A rabsiyo Arabsiyo was the first town I saw many efforts towards establishing a strong agricultural presence. There were many greenhouses and vast fields of growing sorghum and other essential grains. The abundant rain led to more opportunities to apply rainwater collecting systems and other applications to yield a variety of produce. The land’s fertility meant that farmers and those in the agricultural practice benefited quite well from substantial economic gains. It was the first time that I got to see the works, operations, and logistics behind the efforts it took to run a ‘beraha’ (farm) in the context of Somaliland.

Everything seemed controlled, and water was reorchestrated to benefit their needs, it ran as its self sustaining ecosystem.

The farmers were successful in understanding which fruits and vegetables were favorable and those that could tolerate certain seasons. There were dams and dug wells on site. They even had controllable piping that allowed one to redirect and stop the flow of water. This water supply was also directed towards a greenhouse that aided in creating a separate microclimate for plants to thrive on.

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Wa t e r C o n s e r v a t i o n & L a n d P e r s e r v a t i o n

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N o m a d i c Pa s s age

Gab iley Gabiley, a town genuinely dear to me, is a place where my distant family primarily resides. Whenever people in Hargeisa asked where my family was, I’d always reply, “Reer Gabiley, ayaanahay, I am from Gabiley.” Though it more specifically implied that my family and lineage all come from Gabiley. It’s the origin of my father’s roots, the place where he began his life as a young shepherd tending to his flock of goats and sheep while collecting water from nearby wells. It was where he went to high school, the location of his local mosque, the busy markets, the place where all his family, friends, and memories resided. It was his first home, birthplace, one where he had to emigrate and forcefully leave.

I managed to get my aunt to trust me to go to the market alone to get vegetables and meat for tonight’s meal. I threw on a bright golden-orange ‘jilbab’ (long scarf) she made for me; It was one of my favorites. It had a large slit along the middle where I could hide my purse with change and a small disposable camera. I had a sense of where I was going, though I was becoming a little lost within the quaint homes and makeshift huts. I was near the entrance that casted a familiar ambiance from the rising sun on fabric sheets that hung on poles. Everywhere had a recognizable scent, the homes, the cuisine, and the air itself.

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Wa t e r C o n s e r v a t i o n & L a n d P e r s e r v a t i o n

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N o m a d i c Pa s s age

B ora ma I was on my way to view rural huts along the outskirts of the town, but I couldn’t help but take in the quality of the shelters within the city. These temporary dwellings looked soggy as if they were still wet from previous rainfall. On our way to the settlements, I caught a glance of two pastoralists guiding their camels loaded with their components of a hut as if they were moving. It was the closest I’ve seen of herders searching for new grounds. It was within these fields that I completely understood how sporadic rainfall dictated the language and movements of both animals and pastoralists. The forthcoming drumming sounds from clouds generated this feeling of prosperity and assurance as heaps of rain embraced the earth.

Though it did seem like there were still obstacles preventing everyone from achieving a prosperous life.

The rain orchestrated the movement of individuals throughout the day. Routines had to be completed before the rain overshadowed their routes. Sometimes it would rain very slowly, often causing water tanks and water barrels within households to overflow.

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Wa t e r C o n s e r v a t i o n & L a n d P e r s e r v a t i o n

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N o m a d i c Pa s s age

Jo urney

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Map

Wa t e r C o n s e r v a t i o n & L a n d P e r s e r v a t i o n

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N o m a d i c Pa s s age

Jo urney

Map

Jo ur ne y Ma p _ Trave l i ng E a s t : L a a s Ge e l , B e r b e ra & S he i k h

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Wa t e r C o n s e r v a t i o n & L a n d P e r s e r v a t i o n

Jo ur ne y Ma p _ Trave l i ng We st : A ra b s i yo, G a b i l e y & Bo ra m a

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Spec ia l Thanks to everyone who assisted me along the journey