The Early Middle Ages 300- 1300 AD * 753: Pope Stephen II tells French ruler Pepin the Short that St. Peter will “remit” the sins of those who fight for his church in the crusades. * Crusades: against Islam 1000 AD – 1258 AD Sources of information: - Mosaics - Religious art - Ivory carvings
Ancient Times
Social structure with more than rich and slaves - Emperor - Land owners/ nobility - Women - Poor - Slaves
What we know about ancient costume comes from remaining visuals. - jewelry - carvings - drawings/ paintings The sewing needle: earliest known needle dates back to 28000 BC It was made of bones and had a split head instead of an eye The eye emerged in 17500 BC The oldest known fiber used for clothing is linen Felt was first invented by the Mongols. A sarong or loincloth is the simplest form of a skirt and was the first recognizable item of clothing. Animal skins were worn out of practicality in colder climates as well as a sign of power and dominance. With “civilization” came draped clothing. It was then considered to be barbaric to wear sarongs and even more fitting garments.
The Late Middle Ages 1300- 1500 Bias cutting allowed more stretch for men’s tights Plastrom/ Placard: beginnings of the corset Lapets worn by English women Outdoor garments for women were cape like Pourpoint/ doublet/ gipon: allows for maximum arm movement in men’s clothing and always marks beginnings of tailoring 15th century: - braies get shorter - jackets get shorter - sleeves expand and get puffier - spereate hose are replaced with joined hose and codpiece - late 1400’s: jackets become wider and women adopt houppelande
Ancient Middle East 3500-600 BC The loincloth was given the name shenti in the Egyptian Old Kingdom. 2100 BC: Rulers add head garments 2300 BC: Men of status wear beards Tunics replaced draped garments Women’s tunics have longer sleeves Toga turns into the pallium, which is a decorated version of the toga The tunica and dalmatica show the beginnings of flat pattern making
Basic garments are adorned with fringe, patterns, and jewels
Sagmentae- fabric weaving
Creete and Greece 2900 BC – 300 AD
Paludamentum- acts as a coat and a symbol of status. Worn by upper class men and women Chasubule
The loincloth is still in affect. Now worn by men and women athletes and is called a perizoma. Having a tight waste is important to both men and women
* 11th century: eastern influence in clothing * Royalty adopted by Byzantine upper class dress
Wrap skirts Exomis: wrap skirt for the workingman Chlamys: cloak Petasos: Hat mostly used for travel Tebenna: forerunner to the TOGA!
Braies/ breeches: linen undergarments Chemise: under skirt/ dress for women Bliaut: complex garment worn by upper class Chainmail: worn by crusaders Mantle: coat sometimes worn with hood Coif: head covering for men
Only Roman citizens could wear the toga at first
* 800 AD- 1000 AD: Women start to wear layered tunic
The Renaissance/ Rebirth 1400- 1600 - begins in Italy (capitol of Roman empire) mid 14th century - emphasis on humanity in art (ex. Better representations of movement and the human body in sculpture) - 15th and 16th century; renaissance moves north - astronomy/ theory of Copernicus * 1492 Columbus sails the ocean blue ☺ * invention of printing press by Gutenburg helps speed up religious pushes * 1476: battle of Grandson leads to slashes in clothing camicia: mens shirt late 15th century the camicia becomes visible and later evolves into the Elizabethan ruff BLACK trend from Spanish shoes go from pointed poulaines to rounded women wear platform shoes called chopines (mainly worn by prostitutes)