L. A Magazine No 11 by LES AMBASSADEURS

L E S A M B A S S A D E U R S / M A G A Z I N E N 째 11

LES AMBASSADEURS PRESENT: A RT I S T I C C R A F T S V I RT U O S O J E W E L L E RY H AU T E H O R L O G E R I E H AU T E C O U T U R E

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Edito rial In observing the latest watchmaking trends, I feel a certain sense of nostalgia sweeping through me when I recall my apprenticeship years in goldsmithing. I was fortunate enough to be introduced to these timehonoured traditional techniques by artisans passionately dedicated to their artistic craft. However, in the wake of a wave of industrial rationalisation, these techniques were more or less consigned to oblivion. At the time, the Swiss watch industry was only just recovering after the quartz crisis. Although there were apparently few remaining traces of authentic Swiss watchmaking expertise, the latter, like the phoenix, was reborn from its ashes to fly higher than ever. Ancient knowledge was revived, machines gathering dust in storerooms were restored to life. Today, horological traditions continue to progress and merge with cutting-edge technologies. The desire to achieve ever increasing mechanical precision and new technical complications has led to amazing results. Making the most of the current desire for technical perfection and the quest for ever high levels of precision, former artisanal professions are recapturing their former glory and claiming their place in the spotlight as full-fledged artistic crafts. Artists are decorating watches and jewellery with the most amazing creations and contributing to the advancement of techniques that had virtually died out in Switzerland. The art of enamelling is once again in demand, as indeed are those of engraving, guillochĂŠ working and gem-setting. Dials spring to vibrant life as they are treated to artistic decorations with enamel, varnish, feathers or tiny mosaic patterns. Making them helps preserve and develop a rich cultural heritage. We have the immense privilege of being ambassadors of these exquisitely expressions of refined artistry. Join us in discovering the creations by these skilled hands and the techniques that lie behind these achievements. Alongside the latest watch and jewellery models, we are presenting the latest trends and technologies, along with articles putting them in their general context.

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Contents |

issue # 11

Editorial

Must-haves for watchmaking fans

Mechanical orchestra

Trendy Accessories:

Wa t c h T r e n d s :

Jewellery Trends: 08

Artistic variations

Fine Watchmaking, Haute Couture, diﬀerent perspectives

“Art Cuisine”

The strap and its watch, an enduring attachment

The ABCs of Fine Watchmaking

In praise of the grain of sand

Bruce Emmett

Métiers d’Art

Like an extravagant millionaire

The temple of Fine Watchmaking

Art:

Design:

Technique:

FHH:

Chronicle:

Portfolio:

Saga:

HTSI:

E s pac e C o n na i s s e u r :

Events: 48

Espace Connaisseur Events 49 Boutique Events

Geneva 51 Zurich 52 Lugano 53 St. Moritz

Jewellery

Wa t c h e s & m o r e

People:

Precious:

128 N e x t a n d c r e d i t s

Must-haves for watchmaking Fans of great mechanics are generally also unconditional lovers of watch accessories. A brief look at must-haves out there this season.

g Safe under lock and key Your watches are precious, so protect them with the smallest safe in the history of watchmaking! Created by German company, Döttling, the Colosimo borrows the name of one of the greatest gangsters of the 20th century. And with good reason – this elegant safe in leather-bound steel is a miniature replica of the safes used during the Prohibition, and works using 16 locks which move independently of each other. Guaranteed security! i Telepho(mecha)nic communication Mobile telephone or high-flying watchmaking? Both, quite simply. Specialised in mechanical cellphones, Celsius X VI II has developed LeDix Furtif, whose some 700 components in carbon fibre fit together to form a cellphone featuring a tourbillon engine throbbing beneath a sapphire crystal breast-plate and framed by six gold wings. An exceptional object issued in a 32-piece limited edition. f The poetry of the passing of time Let us forget the hour and minute hands for a moment. Forget all thoughts of precision. And appreciate – just for an hour – the poetry of the passing of time. That is what Ikepod are offering with The Hourglass whose steel nanoballs run through the inside of the borosilicate glass structure. Ten minutes for the small model, 60 for the big one … the passage of time expressed by the brilliant Marc Newson is a great example of the clean lines of contemporary design.

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TRENDY ACCESSORIES_ L.A Text: Marie de Pimodan-Bugnon

d A wave of blue elegance When it comes to elegance, everything comes down to details. From the commanding presence of white gold combined with enamelled lacquer to the refinement of the lapis lazuli oscillating weight, Breguet puts its initials on incomparably chic cufflinks. g Connect with the Blue attitude When Vertu meets Italian Independent, the brand created by Lapo Elkann, style and creativity join hands to give life to the new Constellation Blue collection. Ultra-sturdy PVD-treated steel, carbon fibres, sapphires and leather – all in a blue shade – are the innovative materials composing this touch smartphone in a 777-piece limited edition. A Constellation Quest Blue version is also available in a 77-piece limited edition.

fans

d Sinatra to his fingertips In his pinstriped suit, wearing his signature Fedora, Frank Sinatra personified an era as well as a certain idea of elegance. In tribute to this great artist, Montegrappa is presenting a limited series of fountain and ballpoint pens. Pinstriped barrels and caps and pocket clips sculpted in the shape of a classic microphone, with blue details in a nod to Ol’ Blue Eyes, or orange in tribute to Sinatra’s favourite colour … This is a retro style collection limited to 1915 pieces per model. s A little cube that is both chic and fun Watches embark upon a kaleidoscopic journey with SwisskubiK’s rotating watchwinders. Anodized aluminium in 14 colours, along with leather, matt wenge wood, carbon fibre and granite, are just some of the materials used to dress these little cubes designed for winding watches. A few limited series round off the collection, notably including a model in red leather bearing the Swiss cross or the gothic version in black leather with skull and crossbones.

f Diamonds for a time warp Diamonds are inviting themselves into your house. In response to the expectations of fans of fully set pieces, Italian brand Scatola del Tempo is covering the winder of the 1RTM Diamonds watch line with some 1,563 Top Wesselton diamonds. This is a precious 89.9-carat object that combines the sparkle of stones with a mechanism equipped with ten rotation programmes.

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L.A _WATCH TRENDS Text: Marie de Pimodan-Bugnon

Mechanical orchestra Invented to indicate the time in the dark in a period when electricity had not yet replaced candles, striking watches are some of the most prestigious, romantic and trendy complications. Music, maestro!

orn in the late 17th century and considered to be among the oldest complications in horological history, striking watches are the exclusive preserve of a handful of manufacturers. In addition to the ability to create such a complex movement, such models call for extensive knowledge in the physics of sound, a vast range of skills in metallurgy, as well as an excellent musical ear in order to be able to appraise the accurate pitch of a sound. Audemars Piguet has fully mastered this range of skills since its founding in 1875. Building on this historical legitimacy, the brand is perpetuating this fine tradition with the Millenary Minute Repeater handwound model. At the heart of its oval-shaped titanium case beats a masterpiece of miniaturisation featuring the AP escapement, the double balance-spring, as well as the striking mechanismâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hammers and gongs. Incomparable sound Albeit an enchanting sight, striking watches must above all offer an entrancing sound. In the delicate exercise of combining aesthetic elegance with beautiful sounds, Blancpain displays its magic touch with the Le Brassus Carrousel RĂŠpĂŠtition Minutes, which combines a one-minute flying karussel with a minute repeater featuring a cathedral gong.

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WATCH TRENDS_ L.A

The latterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s blades are sufficiently long to be coiled one and a half times around the movement in order to emit a sound of exceptional quality. Moreover, the cathedral gong is secured to the inner face of the case so as to achieve peerless sound volume and clarity. Striking the perfect time chord In the same vein, the 1966 Minute Repeater watch by Girard-Perregaux benefits from the long-established expertise of the House and displays undeniable acoustic quality. To achieve this, the watch company has devoted particular attention to ensuring a perfect match between the diameter of the movement and that of the case, so as to achieve a ratio guaranteeing maximum resonance. The case-back is curved in order to enhance the propagation of the sound, while its inner part is diamond-polished so as to reduce acoustic interference. At Cartier, the beauty of the sounds is also of capital importance. Stemming from five years of research into horological acoustics, the Rotonde de Cartier Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon watch chimes out sounds characterised by their infinite purity. Crafted in grade 5 polished titanium for its lightness, it measures 45 mm in diameter to enhance resonance. Embodying a perfect blend of aesthetic appeal and mechanical excellence, while fulfilling a desire to dream rather than a merely practical purpose, this classic watch draws upon the most advanced technological developments. The result is an anachronistic masterpiece revealing the full power of Fine Watchmaking.

From left to right: Audemars Piguet Girard-Perregeaux Blancpain Cartier Vulcain Jaeger-LeCoultre

Watches that ramp up the decibels While minute repeaters are reputed for the beauty of the sounds they produce, there is another type of striking watch from which one expects an entirely different performance. Precision, reliability and powerful decibels: such are the three essential characteristics of a good alarm watch. Among the best known is the Master Memovox by Jaeger-LeCoultre, powered by a modern movement that is the direct descendant of the first automatic calibre in watchmaking history equipped with an alarm function and unveiled in 1956 by the Manufacture. A technical excellence that also characterises the famous Cricket alarm by Vulcain. How can one produce a sound loud and long enough to awaken a sleeper, yet without disturbing the smooth running of the movement? Such is the challenge to to which Vulcain rose in the late 1940s, and which it continues to fine-tune to this day. By combining the case construction with a top-flight mechanism, the watch emits a chime of such quality that it can even be heard under water â&#x20AC;&#x201C; an impressive feat indeed!

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Text: Marie de Pimodan-Bugnon Photo: Denis Hayoun

Artistic variations

he trend is not recent and shows no sign of disappearing. A return to traditional values? A celebration of a certain idea of tradition? One thing is for sure: the jewellery sector is witnessing an unceasing blossoming of creations, which, each in their own way, highlight an art. A flamboyant setting, a refined piece of enamelling, a delicate engraving … So many crafts transmitted from generation to generation which contribute to the creation of unbelievably elegant jewellery. Gem-setting is certainly the most current expression of these trades. There are many techniques of which the most frequently used are claw setting which involves inserting the stone in ametal claw, grain setting which consists in securing the stone in tiny metal cuttings raised from inside the seating hole, and closed setting which holds the stone inside a metal circle. From gem-setting ... The amazing Nudo rings by Pomellato are magnificent contemporary illustrations of skill. The beauty of the Italian flagship line, Nudo, lies in its sheer simplicity. London blue topaz, Madeira quartz, amethyst, prasiolite, lemon quartz, periodot … Here, the stone set as a solitaire is the centre of attention and reveals the power of its sparkle. With contemporary aesthetics inspired by ethnic style, Mattioli also plays the

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Jewellery has inherent sentimental value, the weight of gold and carats, but also a certain value linked to the patient, painstaking work of the craftsmen who make it. More than ever, jewellery creations celebrate human handiwork and place artistic crafts in the limelight.

pure lines card with its African Queen bracelet. This is a striking contrast between the shine of a feather-light setting and the matt finish of the black stones made from fossilised charcoal. At the complete opposite end of the spectrum from this apparent simplicity, gem-setting is often the subject of advanced compositions of coloured stones and different sizes. Like an artist wielding his paintbrush and palette, the jeweller craftsman marries stones amongst themselves, creating veritable jewellery works of art. We are currently witnessing the spectacular emergence of multi-coloured jewellery creations designed to sublimate feminine beauty. At MIMI, amethysts and violet sapphires go side by side with cultured pearls, resulting in a sumptuous jewellery set christened Jasmine. At Mikimoto, pearls dialogue with diamonds. Magnificently staged by the “king of pearls”, these natural treasures enhanced with diamonds overwhelmingly unleash all their powers

of seduction in the “One of a kind” rings. The so-called “baroque” pearls chosen to make these pieces are distinguished by the fact that their shape is not round. Not only do they exude a singularly unique character, but in addition they highlight the difficulty of the gem-setting that succeeds in exalting their irregular curves. ... to enamelling With quite another meaning, the term baroque is also applied to the aesthetics of Wellendorff jewellery whose creativity is expressed through a line of wedding rings in gold, diamond and enamel. Angelic patience, painstaking rigour and a breathtaking sense of detail are the main qualities that make each piece of jewellery a unique, precious object bearing an emotional value often matched only by the carats with which it is set.

JEWELLERY TRENDS_ L.A

Left: MIMI necklace and ring Pomellato rings Right: Mikimoto rings Wellendorff rings Mattioli bracelets

L.A _ART Text: David Chokron

Fine Watchmaking, Haute Couture, diﬀerent perspectives They represent excellence. Haute Couture masters the wildest imaginable fabrics and embroideries. Fine Watchmaking tames metal and the most sparkling precious stones. Both make a living from similar, almost twin, techniques and purposes.

ision and dexterity are inherent to the most varied realms of arts and crafts. Both have a huge responsibility to reconcile economics and aesthetics, products and beauty. They bring together trades that, despite the heterogeneity of the objects they create, are alike. Alongside these similarities, two precious universes cohabit at a distance despite being so close. One is all about fabric and the other about metal. The first dresses the body and the other makes do with wrists. But Haute Couture and Fine Watchmaking are veritable cousins, fraternal twins, intimates who may at times choose to ignore each other. Communion Let’s put aside for a moment the mechanical engineering in watchmaking, which is a little cold and severe. And let’s also forget the pressure of fashion, which makes yesterday’s avant-garde outdated today. The art of dressing women has this in common with the art of making watches: that both structure a material that resists being structured. That they transform

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ART_ L.A

White gold tassels swirl around Breguet’s Reine de Naples Charleston. Jean-Paul Gaultier makes them dance to the rhythm of his model’s step.

their raw materials into something precious. That they fashion already noble substances to elevate the soul. Because is not the function of aesthetics to reveal the finest part of human nature? Haute Couture and Fine Watchmaking demonstrate the strength of a brain that invents, guides hands and oversees creation. When a human being is gifted, it doesn’t matter what his trade is as long as long as he stirs our emotions. Function Haute Couture exists through dialogue between a fashion designer and his workshop. Exercising a range of rare skills, it works with silk, muslin, feathers, sequins or organdy. It follows the idealised shape of a woman’s body. It transcends it through rolls of cloth and technique, the latter being an insufficiently powerful term that hides a fascinating mastery. The knowledge and experience of the seamstresses combine with the conceptual talent of the stylist. They are at the service of his vision, his aesthetic universe, which is most greatly admired when it looks unlike anything else. This creative flight depends on know-how and this dependence is also at the root of watchmaking expression. It structures, assembles, openworks and sets, weaving variations on colours and on volumes. In such dextrous hands, gold, steel or platinum bars take on a new dimension. Even the apparently modest brass of watch movements becomes prestigious. The watchmaker gives structure to a volume distinguished by its diminutive size and its obligation to serve a practical function. The watch does indeed have

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i Alexis Mabilleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s embroidered sequinning creates volume and texture. Temps Moderne de Cartier watch also plays with the same intricate entanglement of precious elements.

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an obligation to provide the time and to be adjustable, to sit securely on the wrist and not weigh too heavily. Clothes have the same pressures, in terms of concealing nudity and sometimes providing warmth whatever the circumstances. Crafts Perhaps the most striking resemblance lies in the similarity of working methods. In a couture workshop, the trades are separate. There is the seamstress, the embroiderer, the patternmaker, the feather dresserâ&#x20AC;Ś Within a watch manufacturing facility, the gem-setter is not the engraver, nor the enameller. He is different from the watchmaker who cohabits with the skeleton-work specialist. But the inspirations are similar. As are the creations, chance outcomes of aesthetics or something like the natural product of a resemblance that makes an immediate impression. Openwork

dress meets lacework case, or the other way round. A feather garment crosses paths with a peacock dial and recognises a kindred spirit. The leather-making artisan who makes and sews leather straps works with both strength and delicacy, as does the engraver who inscribes acanthus leaves in platinum. Roots It is also a matter of location. Haute Couture happens in Paris and nowhere else. Milan, London and New York are the second tier for that particular parade. All the workshops, all the creators, all the presentations happen in the City of Lights, which has defended its status throughout the 20th century. Meanwhile, Fine Watchmaking has ended up being confined almost exclusively to Switzerland. There are indeed artisans still scattered like specks of gold in all countries, living traditions in Japan and Germany, and yet manufacturing and finishing of the most precious, most perfect timepieces is concentrated between Geneva and the Jura. Certain other valleys and towns also take part, butexcellence is a state of mind and great minds tend to converge and congregate. In our global village, the effect of location still exists and is a happy by-product of proximity. It enables the best craftsmen to exchange and develop, and the same goes for their creations.

ART_ L.A

Transmission Ancient and precious skills are always threatened in all fields. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a natural result of their rarity, that which characterises greatness. But they are preserved and perpetuated to ensure they endure. The human heritage that they form is safe and sound. It is patiently passed on. It prospers under the demanding gaze of wealthy clients. It provides a livelihood for companies that unremittingly devote themselves to creation. Because Haute Couture continues to turn heads. And like a magnet, Fine Watchmaking attracts people with taste.

i Born in China, but based in Paris, Yiqing Yin works peacock feathers into a mesh. Harry Winston used it for the dial of its Premier Feathers.

f The purity of white shot through with a brilliant lightning bolt, as interpreted by Martin Margiela and in Chanelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s J12 GMT.

Black is the fundamental colour. Monochrome matt brings together Jean-Paul Gaultier and Jaquet Drozâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Grande Seconde Power Reserve Ceramic. p

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L.A _DESIGN Text: Véronique Zbinden

“Art Cuisine” Gastronomy had to await the 21st century to join the Fine Arts pantheon. Then again, what do our chefs think? Are they artists, or craftsmen?

ainting, sculpture, performance… Think flower petals showered on the translucent flesh of a fish, a vegetable vessel running before an invisible wind, lace made of raw potato, a ceviche reminiscent of a Miró composition, a “dôme feu” bathed in iridescently gleaming sauce vierge, a poppy paupiette with Toggenburg bacon, rose-shaped shrimps in kumquat emulsion, scented volutes emanating from out of nowhere, or a chameleon of a dish that changes colour when the spoon is plunged into it… So many new and astonishing textures, incred-

ible subtleties, and enough saturated colours to give one the shivers. Seeing all these plates constructed like paintings – refined and graphic in style, incredibly precise or wildly exuberant, fragile, spare, sometimes dazzling – makes one reflect that cooking has probably never before come so close to being art, to the point that in 2007 the Kassel Documenta, a major exhibition of contemporary art, brought in a master chef (Ferran Adrià) for the first time. And to the point that food photography is invading museums and galleries, and publications for foodlovers are going wild over all things

DESIGN_ L.A

gourmet. And further, to the point that the stars of pastry- and chocolate-making are trying to outdo each other in dreaming up installations as breathtakingly beautiful as cathedrals, unashamedly dusted with cocoa powder or covered with meringue. What happened? Over the past forty years or so, cooking has been through an aesthetic revolution. What do our chefs think of this? Have they unknowingly become artists, or are they still craftsmen first and foremost? Do they feel they have a mission? “An artist has no limitations,” says

Carlo Crisci, the chef at Le Cerf in Cossonay, “unlike a cook, who is constrained by cost, practicality, profitability. He puts forward his vision of the world…” During the 1970s, art took up cooking for playful and mischievous purposes. Daniel Spoerri made food in his Dusseldorf gallery and used the leftovers to create pictures. Gordon Matta-Clark dreamed up a restaurant in Soho and became interested in the transformation process of food. For their part, during the same period chefs were discovering the world of Japanese cooking and its aesthetic.

real food “production” with cinema, circus, liquid nitrogen and crazy textures, clouds of smoke, and more. Cooking was striving to become a complete art form, but all the folderol tended to upstage the taste. The aspiration to create great works is what killed nouvelle cuisine, and the same excesses sounded the death knell of molecular cuisine. And what of today? The eye has become essential to the “composition” of dishes – aesthetics must never be neglected – but taste is once again taking precedence. The art lies in engaging all the senses, and that is

“An artist has no limitations,” says Carlo Crisci, the chef at Le Cerf in Cossonay, “unlike a cook, who is constrained by cost, practicality, profitability. He puts forward his vision of the world...” Gagnaire, Troisgros, Lenôtre, and Chapel were dazzled and the light came on. Dazzled by the sheer beauty of these dishes… The effect of the advent of nouvelle cuisine, and increasing media coverage of it, was to glamorise “atmosphere” and this pursuit of aesthetic perfection. Growing numbers of handsome books and chic magazines appeared. With the blessing of Pierre Gagnaire himself, chefs often began to favour the visual aspect over taste. To excess… Twenty years later, “molecular cuisine” impressed everyone, clearing the table to set the stage for a theatrical presentation. There were special effects, a

also what makes this day and age so exciting… Seeking new things, trying to surprise, disarm, disconcert – these are what all avant-garde movements do, from the theatre through art galleries to the stoves of chefs. “Art cuisine” is the new watchword, and its best practitioners continually reinvent their menus, day after day – but not without delighting the taste buds. Great cooking, originally a craftsman’s trade, always verges on art. “If you work with sincerity, you are coming close… If you touch the emotional level, the soul, then you are doing it.” Such is at any rate the fundamental conviction of Carlo Crisci.

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L.A _TECHNIQUE Text: Timm Delfs

The strap and its watch, an enduring attachment

matter, beyond the watchmaker’s professional understanding. Indeed watch companies inevitably have their straps made by an outside specialist. Such straps must have a high-quality look, fit the watch, display a fine buckle or clasp and last a long time. However one pays little attention to the quality of the strap until it becomes unstuck. It is not easy to imagine the amount of research, work and attention to detail that goes into a leather strap, without

©Hermès

Starting a saddle stitch at the pointed end of a strap.

he strap or bracelet of a watch defines it as a wristwatch, but few give a second thought to the two strips of leather, one with holes and the other with a buckle. Horological enthusiasts are naturally more fixated on the watch itself. Metal bracelets, of course, have to be integrated with the design and material of the watch and this is therefore normally part of the watch manufacturer’s job. Leather straps are a different

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TECHNIQUE_ L.A

having witnessed the manufacturing process. This is what we have done for you, dear reader, to give you a totally different perspective of the device that keeps your watch on your wrist. Leather, one of the oldest materials Alongside wood, leather is one of the earliest materials to have been transformed by human agency. The discovery of tanning techniques was revolutionary. It enabled the preservation of a corruptible raw material, giving it a wide variety of useful roles. Before this discovery, the skins of slaughtered animals were simply discarded. Suddenly they became a valuable raw material. Tanning leather involves a complex chemical process,

the description of which goes beyond the scope of this article. Manufacturers of watchstraps impose high requirements on the tanners who supply them. The most widely used leathers in the watch industry are calfskin and alligator. The skins of goats, ostriches, lizards or such cartilaginous fishes such as rays and sharks are more rarely used and are subject to changes in fashion. When they arrive at the manufacturer, the leathers first undergo visual and tactile inspection. The small alligator skins in particular must display no irregularity or blemish because only very few straps can be made from each skin. The typical scales of a size suitable for watchstraps are found in a few rare places. It’s not

quite the same for calfskins: a skin from a three-month-old animal yields almost 50 complete straps while an alligator might sometimes provide only four. Different tanning processes are used to give individual leathers their own characteristics, not only in colour, but also in strength, texture and tactile qualities. Structuring the leather into a strap Tanned skins are stored with care at the strap manufacturer in an air-conditioned room. Expert hands and critical eyes select the skins according to requirements and hydraulic machines cut out the basic shapes for a strap. The long end of the strap with holes, called the tail, and the shorter head with the

f f Sewing the two loops is a tricky task.

f The Bell & Ross Vintage WWI-92 Heritage model.

©Hermès

f d The dye on the edge of the strap is smoothed down with a hot iron so that it is absorbed by the leather.

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L.A _TECHNIQUE

bulk. In the first operation, the outer leather, which is cut slightly too long, is folded over at the end to make a passage for the lug bar. The folded end is pared down with a knife to an edge as thin as a sheet of paper. For the shorter head of the strap, this has to be done at both ends to provide a passage or loop for the buckle. The leather lining is then glued on. Its ends have also been pared so as to fit seamlessly with the folded ends of the outer leather. Saddle stitching won’t come undone The pair of glued leather parts is then sent to be stitched. Heavy-duty sewing machines stitch along the edges of

i The Breitling Galactic 36 Automatic model. s The different leathers are stored at constant temperature and humidity rates.

©Hermès

buckle, have to come from adjoining parts of the skin to maintain the same structure and colour. The process of selecting and cutting out the appropriate parts of the skin is known as “matching up” in the trade. Many manufacturers do this themselves, while other buy in pre-cut pieces of leather. Each strap is in fact a sandwich of three components. The lining, against the wrist, has to be soft and flexible. The thicker outer leather, the visible part of the strap, displays its visual and tactile qualities. Between them lies a layer of tear-resistant filler, which provides additional rigidity and reinforces the holes. Many straps are upholstered with other materials to give them

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TECHNIQUE_ L.A

the straps. The good quality straps are stitched by hand at the ends through which passes the lug bar using a technique known as saddle stitching which no sewing machine is capable of. This entails passing two threads through the holes from either side and twisting them together so that a knot forms inside the hole. Saddle-stitched parts cannot separate even if the thread breaks in one place. Finally the threads are snipped off close to the leather and the ends pushed into the last hole with

down with fine sandpaper and then sealed with a resistant dye that prevents moisture from entering the strap though the sides. The technique of turning in the leather developed by the Hirsch firm closes the edge by folding the outer layer over the sides and gluing it seamlessly onto the lining using pressure and heat. For a final touch, a decorative groove is pressed into the leather along the stitching with a hot iron, making the strap look narrower than it is.

Saddle-stitching is the sign of a good quality strap. Before the buckle is fitted, the short strap must be fitted with two loops to hold the tail, one loose and the other stitched in place. The latter job is a particular challenge for the agile fingers of the artisans, who are mostly women. Once the clasp or buckle is fitted the strap is ready for the watch.

d The cut-out leather strips must have a perfect surface. d d For special orders, the holes are punched with this tool. s The Vacheron Constantin Malte Small Second model. a The Panerai Radiomir – 42 mm model.

©Hermès

an awl and secured there with a spot of white glue so that the ends of the threads are hidden from sight. The leather strap is now almost complete. Its weak point is the straight-cut edge around the strap common to some manufacturers such as Hermès. This absorbent edge is always smoothed

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The ABCs of

Fine Watchmaking This semester, the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie offers L.A Magazine readers an opportunity to take a closer look at the various parts of the watch strap or bracelet. This selection is taken from its glossary, to be found in full at: www.hautehorlogerie.org

FHH_ L.A

Bracelet/Strap A means of attaching the watch around the wrist. A bracelet or strap can be in gold, silver, steel, leather, etc. and in styles ranging from the simplest to the most elaborate. Horn or Lug The part of a watch case to which the strap is attached. Horns/lugs come in various shapes and are attached to the case middle. Inter-horn or lug width Distance between two case horns/lugs where the end of the strap is inserted. Bar A thin metal rod fixed between the case horns for attaching the watch strap or bracelet. Spring bar: a thin metal rod with a pivot at each end which retracts under the force exerted by the spring inside. Tube and Pin Cylindrical element serving to hold the wristband fastening rod without making it overly rigid. Pin An articulated metal prong that is inserted in a hole in the leather strap and then secured by the buckle. The majority of belts fasten this way. A watch can be said to have a pin buckle. Folding buckle or clasp An articulated buckle or clasp that unfolds when opened. Should the buckle accidentally come open, it will still hold the wristband sufficiently firmly in place to prevent the watch from slipping off the wrist. 1572 The Earl of Leicester, favourite of Elizabeth I of England and Master of the Queenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Horse, gave his sovereign a round watch set with diamonds and attached to an â&#x20AC;&#x153;armletâ&#x20AC;?. Historians view this piece of jewellery as the ancestor of the wristwatch.

1889 The first known patent for a wristwatch was filed in Bern. Leather-strap maker A love of well-executed work is what continuously motivates the leather-strap makers to seek out superlative hides with which to make their products. The extremely dextrous leather-strap maker knows how to match up the two pieces of leather that will form the same strap to ensure a harmonious effect in terms of form and colour. As self-taught artisans, strap makers learn how to cut skins and to treat, sew and polish them thanks to their own initiatives. Metal-bracelet maker From the initial sketch to the finished product, the metal-bracelet maker masters all steps in the production process. Both mechanics and versatile artisans, they are capable of alternating smoothly between industrial and strictly manual tasks. Among the range of skills required, meticulousness, accuracy and dexterity emerge as the most indispensable qualities for this profession. The metal-bracelet maker also has in-depth knowledge of alloys, thanks to combined training as a jeweller and a micromechanical engineer.

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L.A _CHRONICLE Text: Marco Cattaneo Illustration: Nicolas Zentner

… In praise of the grain of sand … Artistic crafts preserve ancient, almost forgotten skills; they combine the best of humankind with the best of nature and reveal beauty wherever it is to be found.

here are a few remaining Belle Epoque boats on Swiss lakes, built at the beginning of the last century for the benefit of German or British tourists and whose wheels still churn the cold waters of Lake Geneva and Lake Lucerne today. Their gigantic motors are in full view, protected by a number of plexiglass panels that a cautious insurance company doubtless insisted on installing. They show off their scrupulously maintained mechanics, and attract as much attention as the Alpine peaks towards which they convey us but that their hypnotic, slow, powerful movement contrives to make us forget. These boats speak of a bygone world, and the coming and going of their rods and pistons painted in bright colours is like a childhood remake of

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Fritz Lang’s Metropolis seen through Heidi’s eyes. Their ballet is an anthem to a triumphant industry – placed by a dying 19th century at the pinnacle of human hierarchies, glorifying the inexorable repetition of the same – the same movement producing the same effect, the same component manufactured in the same way, endless reproduction of the identical, of countlessly repeated gestures, rhythmical scansion and a pounding beat. All of which results in a sense of fascination delightfully tinged with just a hint of boredom. One catches oneself dreaming of or even hoping for a grain of sand that one imagines getting into the well-oiled mechanics, interrupting the industrial process just to introduce some sort of variation, a slight difference, expecting it to destroy the eternal repetition

CHRONICLE_ L.A

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L.A _CHRONICLE

of the same or at least of the module; to introduce a hiccup, a note of dissent which creates something unique and gives it a little additional soul. The grain of sand – the enemy of technicians and the ally of poets. The grain of sand – the indispensable accident without which no pearl would be born. This grain of sand is of course the artisan, the human antidote to the productivist fever that causes us to confuse quality and uniformity. The individual who provides us with a synthesis of the best of nature and of humankind ef-

terior angle, polishes a bridge by hand, and by hand that the enameller grinds crystals in his mortar and that the gem-setter drives in his stones. Crafts are rare, discreet and indispensable. They are often naturally linked with the adjective “haute” in every sector – be it “haute joaillerie” or “haute couture”. They make shows possible and transform watch dials into exceptional creations. They are found in the wings of every event, wherever art is staged, where expertise and a love of refined manual skills are expressed.

“Often anonymous grains of sand, artisans rather than artists, métiers d’art reveal beauty wherever human genius makes it emerge.” fectively combines matter and skill: it is man who reveals the beauty of a diamond by cutting it. He is the modest and sometimes whimsical custodian of ancient techniques that are no longer taught and who is unconcerned by delivery deadlines; the one who will only complete his guilloché motif tomorrow, because today’s weather is better suited to looking for mushrooms. This oft anonymous grain of sand, an artisan rather than an artist, reveals beauty wherever human genius makes it emerge: engraving, sewing, grinding, painting, gilding, setting, giving objects the touch of fantasy that cannot be done by machines, completing the latters’ work wherever their mechanised arms and the programmes powering them reach their limit: it is always by hand that one creates an in-

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Their vocation is to produce unique pieces, theatre decor, jewellery or costumes, and the entire luxury industry defends them with passion because they are so inextricably bound up with its own existence. Despite this, they are infinitely fragile, these crafts with mysterious names such as guillocheur or techniscéniste (the new Swiss name for a stagehand), depending on whether one is referring to watchmaking or the opera. Some disappear each year – meaning skills that are consigned to oblivion because they had not succeeded in endearing themselves to the next generation. They are the tenuous memory of our collective talent, sometimes passed on through an almost exclusively oral tradition, from teacher to student, much like an old, almost forgotten fairytale.

L.A _PORTFOLIO

Breguet watch REINE DE NAPLES Ref. 8928BR/51/844 DD0D

CHF 34,200.–

Cartier watch TANK ANGLAISE WATCH, SMALL MODEL PINK GOLD Ref. WT100002

CHF 31,200.–

A. Lange & Söhne watch GRAND LANGE 1 Ref. 117.025

CHF 48,800.–

Roger Dubuis watch LA MONÉGASQUE FLYING TOURBILLON IN PINK GOLD Ref. RDDBMG0010

CHF 140,500.–

Urwerk watch UR-110 RG Ref. UR-110 RG

CHF 104,760.–

Greubel Forsey watch TOURBILLON 24 SECONDES CONTEMPORAIN Ref. 9100 1253

CHF 464,400.–

All prices shown may be subject to change.

PROFILE_ L.A Text: Laurence Beauvais

Bruce Emmett

or over thirty years, New York born illustrator Bruce Emmett, who holds a Bachelor of Fine Arts degree, has been the darling of artistic directors from the most prestigious agencies worldwide. His secret lies in his amazingly broad range of skills, including charcoal and pencil drawings, oil and acrylic painting as well computer graphics, in which he excels. His technical mastery is backed by a peerless sense of subtle irony. Blending his American heritage with a classic style of professional training, he fits front and centre in a glamorous world, reminiscent of the golden years of Hollywood of the 40s and 50s. He loves pin-ups, the chiaroscuro shades of German expressionistic films, and admits to a passion for Orson Welles. As well as creating famous ad campaigns for Sprite, Johnnie Walker and Procter & Gamble, Bruce Emmett is the illustrator of numerous novels and regularly collaborates with AngloSaxon magazines by designing their covers. Bruce Emmett/Agence les Illustrateurs www.lesillustrateurs.com

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L.A _SAGA Text: Keith W. Strandberg

Métiers d’Art Métiers d’art are bringing us back in touch with what matters. Today’s products are too often mass produced, standardized and almost too perfect. Look at the iPhone, with its sculpted sides and impossibly perfect form. The iPhone is great to use, but if you are looking for a product with a soul, you have to look somewhere else.

or those in the know, hand fashioned products, based on traditional methods and artisanal processes, are helping us to stop and value what is unique and special. Products that incorporate métiers d’art, traditional arts, often mixing innovative technology with these artisanal ways, have something special – we know that they have been touched by human hands and are the better for it. Luckily, many luxury segments are rediscovering, and in some cases reviving and preserving, métiers d’art. Watches, suitcases, pens and even automobiles are using traditional techniques and age-old processes for production, even in the most modern of products. Aston Martin Aston Martin automobiles, made in Gaydon, England, have had handcraftsmanship as a key ingredient since the company was founded in 1913. “We pride ourselves on the fact that we are a contemporary company with a design viewpoint that is very modern, but part of what makes an Aston Martin is the

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human hands, creating products that have a soul,” says Marek Reichman, Aston Martin’s director of design. “There are about 200 man-hours on average in our regular production cars, but this can go to extremes of about 2,500 manhours for our exclusive cars (like the One-77). We are, in fact, making automobiles by hand, creating something that people will love.” The interior is one place where hand craftsmanship comes into play, as the leathers are hand-sewn, the controls and keys are hand polished and finished, and all Aston Martin cars are hand painted for the final coat, as well as hand polished to achieve the glass finish for which the company is known. All of the traditional crafts that Aston Martin uses are done in-house, and one key challenge is to keep this knowhow alive. “We have the Aston Martin Academy where we do our training and teaching,” Reichman says. “We also have many long-standing employees that pass on the knowledge that they have developed.”

The creation of an Aston Martin automobile includes an incredible number of man hours to handstitch the seat (pictured) and the interior of the car, as well as to hand-polish the exterior to a flawless mirror polish finish.

L.A _SAGA

Above: Aston Martin created the Q-Design department to offer bespoke automobiles. Anything the customer wants, including unique colors, special leathers and individual touches, is possible.

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Globe-Trotter r Suitcas Suitcases Suitcase makers to the Queen of England, Globe-Trotter has been making suitcases the same way since 1897. “The design and production of our luggage remains true to its roots,” says Katherine Green, Brand Manager, GlobeTrotter. “Every suitcase is hand crafted on original Victorian machinery at our factory in Broxbourne, Hertfordshire, in exactly the same way they were being produced back when we started. Our suitcases have always been made from a material called Vulcanised Fibreboard, which was invented in Britain in 1859, and is formed from 14 layers of specially bonded paper. However, we have also moved with the times by introducing new sizes and styles, as well as new colors. “Nothing is overlooked at Globe-Trotter,” she continues. “Each and every suitcase is made by hand, so precision and attention to detail are key for our craftsmen and women. We have many customers who come into the store with suitcases which have been handed down to them from their parents, or grandparents, and they have become very emotionally attached to their cases, which have become their longstanding travelling companions. There is an emotional connection between the owners and

Above and Left, top and bottom: Suitcase makers to the Queen of England, Globe-Trotter has been making suitcases the same way since 1897, by hand and using original Victorian-era machinery.

L.A _SAGA

The Visconti Divina collection features a spiral of pure silver wrapping around the pen, imbedded in the deep colored resin.

their cases. Our luggage is luxury, and luxury isn’t about necessity, it is about the feeling the product evokes.” Visconti Pens Founded by Dante Delvecchio in 1988, Visconti has been focused on honoring the grand Florentine pen making tradition, while at the same time innovating with new technology and new approaches. “Most of the pens we produce are limited editions with a story behind them, therefore the decoration we are using has to be in harmony with the pen story and design,” Delvecchio explains. “So the most important thing is to find the artistic techniques that are able to tell the story, like a camera for a director. “For example, our Divina collection has incredible silver spirals wrapping the pen, with the silver trims imbedded in the resin,” he continues. “All of our scrimshaw pens, like the Amerigo

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Vespucci, are extremely detailed. The lacquering of our Dragon is at the highest level.” The methods of manufacturing that Visconti employs are a mix of the modern and the traditional, while the decorative techniques are time-honored and hand-done, making each pen unique. Métiers d’Art in Watchmaking One of the industries where artisanal crafts are alive and well is watchmaking. Watchmakers like Jaeger-LeCoultre, Bovet, Ulysse Nardin and Vacheron Constantin are committed to preserving these traditional decorative arts. “The Métiers d’Art collections are at the center of Vacheron Constantin’s core elements: the very first watch conceived and manufactured by Jean-Marc Vacheron in 1755 was already decorated with hand-engraved patterns,” says Christian Selmoni, artistic director, Vacheron Constantin. “Since the early

SAGA_ L.A

This timepiece, the Dove from Vacheron Constantin’s Les Univers Infinis Collection, combines four different métiers d’art: engraving, stone setting, enamel painting and guilloche.

Visconti’s famous Forbidden City pen requires hours and hours of hand-work to realize the incredible detail.

Inside the Vacheron Constantin Workshop years of our brand, we have been developing and consolidating our expertise and craftsmanship in watchmaking and in the decoration. “Vacheron Constantin makes no compromises in the design and the production of Métiers d’Art watches: we believe that they all are examples of a living tradition, a heritage of more than 250 years of the finest craftsmanship,” he adds. Though production is severely limited, watches that incorporate métiers d’art are being very well received and sell extremely well. Combining métiers d’art with high watchmaking means the best of both worlds. Watchmaking is one of the leading industries when it comes to mixing the traditional with the cutting edge. > continued on page 40

The engraver painstakingly carves into the metal bit by bit, carefully removing it to form an intricate pattern of doves inspired by artist M.C. Escher. Next, the enamellist steps in and adds colored glass, in powder form, filling the pattern, then fires this in a kiln, watching the enamel melt and change into just the right violet color. For the white doves, she uses opalescent enamel, finishing with a clear coat (the Geneva technique) to ensure the enamel never fades or changes color. Next, the stone setter adds diamonds, forming the metal so the stones are held securely and in just the right position to catch the light and enhance the jewel’s natural brilliance. Finally, it’s the guillocheur’s turn, highlighting the doves and alter-

nating between rough and smooth to play with the light. It’s very rare for the enameled and gemset dial to be guilloché worked as a final step, and requires intense attention to detail. Now, the dial of one of the three Métiers d’Art - Les Univers Infinis timepieces from Geneva-based Vacheron Constantin is ready to be assembled onto the mechanical movement, then put into the case. This 40 mm dial already represents hundreds of hours of work, from design to execution to final assembly. A masterpiece of the watchmaking arts, this timepiece is an example of the unique watches inspired by art, architecture and new ideas becoming increasingly popular today.

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L.A _SAGA

ing to rely on outside artisans. Today, Jaeger-LeCoultre does all its enameling, miniature painting, engraving, guilloche, stone setting and more in-house with its own team of designers, artisans and craftsmen. In this way, Jaeger-LeCoultre guarantees the quality of its production and solidifies the future of their métiers d’art timepieces. Products that include artisanal processes and incorporate a hand-made element are like a breath of fresh air in today’s mass produced world, helping us reconnect with our past and appreciate our future.

Ulysse Nardin & Bovet Enamel Dials

Jaeger-LeCoultre has its own in-house enamel atelier, one of the many forms of métiers d’art the Le Sentier-based watch manufacturer offers.

“Ulysse Nardin is a great example on how an almost 170 year old company with a rich history can conserve traditional watchmaking and yet integrate some of the most advanced materials and processes,” says Patrik Hoffmann, president, Ulysse Nardin. “For us, métiers d’art are an integral part of our philosophy and culture. They reflect the know-how and the art of watchmaking skills at its best. At the same time we were reintroducing enamel into watchmaking, we were the first watch company to use silicon in a watch when we introduced the Freak in the year 2000.”

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Making Enough Producing enough of these métiers d’art watches to satisfy demand is an issue, as there is no school training these artisans. Most watch brands have responded by having their in-house métiers d’art workshops train new people, so this traditional know-how is never lost. At the same time, some watch brands are working to rediscover arts and techniques that have been lost to the sands of time. Jaeger-LeCoultre has worked long and hard to bring the various métiers d’art workshops inside their manufacturing facilities, rather than hav-

When Ulysse Nardin’s partner for enamel dials, the owner of Donzé Cadrans, announced he was going to retire and sell the business, Ulysse Nardin didn’t hesitate – they purchased the facility immediately. “The first idea was to secure our past, that was extremely important to us,” says Patrik Hoffmann, president, Ulysse Nardin. “What we did there was an important milestone for Ulysse Nardin, because we really revived enamel.” The history between the two companies goes all the way back to the beginnings of the modern Ulysse Nardin, when the late Rolf Schnyder was looking for a unique blue translucent color for a special dial. Schnyder discovered Donzé Cadrans and commissioned the company to make the dial, which was an expensive process of trial and error. Dials burnt up in the oven, broke during production because they were so fragile, snapped and cracked during assembly because the watchmakers didn’t know how to handle them and more. The watch, the San Marco, was a success and all the hard work paid off for both companies. In fact, every enamel dial since then has been done by Donzé Cadrans. In many companies, there is a move afoot to modernize operations and

SAGA_ L.A

streamline the production. In Donzé Cadrans, however, the work is decidedly artisanal. In fact, walking into the company feels like walking back in time, as the dial creation is done just as it has been for centuries. Dial production, and especially enamel dials, is very labor intensive. Just about every step is done by hand, from applying the enamel powder to the dial to firing it in the oven. There is no magic formula either, much of it depends on experience and feel. When the white enamel dials go into the oven, the temperature has to be just right and the dials have to stay in the oven the exact right amount of time, and there are no electronic timers present. The enamellist

Bovet specializes in miniature painting in enamel, offering a bespoke service to clients who want something special.

who puts it into the oven watches, turns, spins the plate on which the dials are placed, checks and checks again. When it feels like it’s the right time, she takes the dials out and they are done. More enamel powder is applied, and then the dials are fired again...and the process repeats.

Ulysse Nardin’s San Marco features the translucent deep blue enamel, painted by hand, for which the company has become famous.

With enamel painting, it’s a similar process, though more complicated as each color has to be treated differently. in fact, the color of the enamel before going into the oven is not the same as after it is fired, so the enamellist has to have the experience to know what color to apply and how long to fire it in the oven to get the desired result. Bovet has been producing intricate timepieces that feature high complications and exquisite artisanal processes, including miniature painting, enamel and hand-engraving, for almost two centuries. Enamel and miniature painted pair watches sold by Bovet to Imperial China are even on display in museums around the world. The modern Bovet takes great pride in continuing these traditions, integrating tourbillons and minute repeaters with métiers d’art. It’s not a foolproof process either, as the dials are very fragile and can be ruined at any time during the process. Leave a dial in the oven too long, or don’t take enough care, and the dial will be destroyed and the process has to start all over again.

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Text: Gaëlle Sinnassamy-Chaar

LIKE AN EXTRAVAGANT MILLIONAIRE

e it original creations, numbered series of unique pieces, luxury takes on the full meaning of the word when it comes to the rare and d exclusive. Elitist by nature, it is fully expressed in the context of grand and significant creations which fulfil the ever more demanding aspirations of the happy few. But, while it reinvents itself overr and over again to titillate desire, it draws its refinementt above all from tradition – from forgotten trades which are the exception to the rule. Tortoiseshell craftsman, y parasol maker, hat maker, feather dresser, marquetry artists, thatcher, guillocheur and lace maker alike alll transpose materials in search of the absolute to produce veritable masterpieces. “Luxury is part of the dream, of the excellence and superlative that man requires” wrote philosopher, Gilles Lipovetsky. At the crossroads of what is beautiful and what is useful, of heritage and innovation, technique and imagination, tradition and daring, wisdom and insanity, here is a little inventory of hyperbolic luxury which consistently targets ever greater perfection.

Venetian lights i A world away from red brick ovens where

tourists

jostle

admire

glassblowers at work, far from the trinkets which abound on Saint Mark’s Square, the great Murano master glass blowers perpetuate age-old knowhow producing spectacular creations with the most illustrious designers in the world. Amongst these are ultra-contemporary, Baroque-style chandeliers made of polychrome crystal from the Andromeda manufacturer. Enamel, gold thread adornments, multi-coloured glasses, drawn glass and encrusted precious stones compose individually crafted masterpieces that light up palace hotels, dream villas, castles and palaces around the world. www.andromedamurano.it

Gourmet sculptures f He is consumed with passion. While other people work with stone, wood or metal, Patrick Roger uses chocolate as his primary raw material. Be it Christmas trees more than ten metres tall, life-size hippos or gorillas, stylised elephants or a full-ﬁgured dancer, the Rodin of cocoa lets his unfettered imagination loose in his immense 700m2 hangar at Sceaux, an old print-works transformed into a workshop that would make even Willy Wonka green with envy. Working with knives and spatulas, the ganache goldsmith brings his sketches to life and turns them into wacky sculptures. Ephemeral works are exhibited side by side with chocolate bestsellers in his seven boutiques around Paris and his concept-store in Brussels. www.patrickroger.com

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Parisian umbrellas f

On a pedestal si

Michel Heurtault turned his

Thumbing his nose at the conventional shoe

focus to a somewhat unex-

industry, Israeli designer Kobi Levi throws ac-

pected item used in everyday

cepted codes to the wind and raises the shoe

life. At a very young age, the

to work of art status. Mid-way between sculp-

Parisian expressed a par-

tures and haute couture accessories, the art-

ticular passion for umbrellas.

ist’s hybrid creations both surprise and stand

After working with the most

out. Coﬀee-pot boots, chewing-gum heels,

desirable luxury brands and

armchair pumps, banana-mules, ponytail san-

dressing the upper classes,

dals – the imagination of this young designer

he ﬁnally achieved his dream

who graduated in 2001 from the Bezalel Acad-

in 2008 by opening a parasol

emy of Arts and Design knows no limits. The

company. In his workshop, he

Marcel Duchamp of the shoe does his best to re-

creates a demand for unique

work everyday objects and images into unique,

pieces and restores antique

fantastic pieces that he makes with his own

umbrellas using materials and

hands in his creative studio in Tel Aviv.

techniques from days gone by.

www.kobilevidesign.com

His inspiration? He draws on Impressionist painting and French literature. Be it taﬀeta, organza, raw silk, linen and cotton, all are mounted on precious wood and placed on handles engraved with the name of the owner of these exceptional creations which enchant lovers of aesthetics as well as ﬁlm and theatre circles, and of course prestigious couturiers. www.parasolerieheurtault.com

LIKE AN EXTRAVAGANT MILLIONAIRE

Between glass and diamonds a The concept behind the recently established Austrian company, Diamonds in Glass? Personalised creations that combine glass and diamonds. Their elegant champagne glasses enhanced with a diamond set in the stem using a patented glass blowing process are to be found on the smartest tables in the four corners of the planet. Each creation is unique and hand-made, with neither model nor mould. Natascha Marx and artist Tobias Berger’s masterpiece is a glass, gold and diamond saxophone in honour of King Bhumibol of Thailand, delivered in a case made of rare wood. A hundred hours of work were required to make the instrument. The epitome of artistry. www.diamondsinglass.com

Designer eyewear i No fewer than ten manufacturing steps and some 20 hours of work by hand are required to produce a single pair. Eyewear manufacturers from father to son for four generations, the Bonnets are amongst the very few artisans to work with tortoiseshell. They make little gems to suit the individual traits of each face, each one signed by the master in person. While tortoiseshell is a highly controlled noble material that is accessible only to the happy few, Christian has widened the scope of custom-made creations to include gold, platinum, buffalo horn, ram, coral, mother-of-pearl and even tropical woods and acetate. On the first floor of his workshop-boutique at the Palais royal, he welcomes crowned heads, scholars, and artistic and political personalities – all fans of the Parisian house’s frames. www.christianbonnet.com

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The art of tuning i

Precious wood s

Fenice Milano doesn’t produce cars, but rather original works of art based on existing

A cabinet-maker by trade, Catalan desi-

models that are customised by expert craftsmen and delivered hand-made to clients.

gner, Jaime Tresserra has worked with

Amongst the most prestigious creations of the Italian company is the Diva, a small-format

wood for more than 25 years and makes

Rolls-Royce sedan entirely redone in the Milanese style. Several versions have been made

unusual pieces. One of his most recent

but some are true gems. Their characteristics? A grille, wheel rims, and bumper but also

creations? The Joyero, a luxurious jewel-

interior accessories covered with particles of 24 carat gold and a dashboard encrusted with

lery casket. “This is a chest that houses

precious stones. A true must–have.

magical small objects that become inti-

www.fenicemilano.com

mate companions of our beauty rituals” explains the creator. Aside from light

Hats off! p Lady Gaga’s hairdo in the shape of a lobster? That’s him. Princess Beatrice’s eccentric hat which caused a lot of speculation and raised eyebrows at William and Kate’s wedding? Him again. Living in London, famous Irish hat maker, Philip Treacy, dreams up cloche hats, turbans, hairbands, wide-brimmed hats, caps and hair jewellery that are as sculptural as they are extravagant and designed for haute couture houses or for his own collec-

and dark walnut wood, the artisan, who

tions. These are works of art that combine

is deeply passionate about excellence, has

avant-garde design and traditionally-

recreated a trompe-l’oeil inlay on a piece

made products. From Kate Middleton to

of furniture that consists of a console with

Sarah Jessica Parker via Grace Jones, Anna

two caskets on top. The interior is clad with

Piaggi or Daphne Guinness, the star of

hazelnut leather and divided into compart-

headgear achieves unanimous acclaim –

ments, also featuring a removable hand mir-

both the wisest fashionistas and the more

ror engraved with a personalised dedication

daring grab his surreal creations.

on the back.

www.philiptreacy.co.uk

www.tresserra.com

f The naked piano Philippe Pons set up his workshops in Montpellier in the south of France. Only a few dozen pianos are made annually. These are unique pieces made by master craftsmen who focus on reinventing the outside of the instrument - because apart from exceptional sound, the distinctive nature of the creations signed by Gary Pons lies in their design. Featuring translucent cladding in steel, aluminium and Altuglas® combined with light, airy lines, the pianos made by the man from Montpellier reveal their naked organs. This is a somewhat original step in a world dominated by tradition and classicism, but one that has met with undeniable success. The range, which consists of six grand pianos and three uprights, all numbered and signed by their creator, is selling like wildﬁre and orders are ﬂooding in from all over the world. www.garypons.com

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L.A _ESPACE CONNAISSEUR

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ESPACE CONNAISSEUR_ L.A Text: Nathalie Cobos Vesna Mitrovic

ESPACE CONNAISSEUR

THE TEMPLE OF FINE WATCHMAKING

t the heart of LES AMBASSADEURS boutiques is a place where devotees of Haute Horlogerie and collectors are sure to be able to admire exceptional watches: the Espace Connaisseur. This appealing area imbued with a hushed, intimate atmosphere provides a perfect setting in which to present exclusive timepieces issued in limited editions, as well as collector’s objects related to watchmaking. Connoisseurs and devotees can meet there to share their passion, consult various books, or simple admire an array of Haute Horlogerie models that is unique in Switzerland. The Espace Connaisseur also hosts private events bringing together Haute Horlogerie enthusiasts eager to explore specific themes. LES AMBASSADEURS invites specialists in this field to lead out in these evenings and inspire attendees. The Espace Connaisseur has already welcomed personalities such as Stephen Forsey, co-founder of Greubel Forsey; Carole Forestier-Kasapi, who heads the Cartier Movement Development department; Roger Dubuis, the man behind the brand that bears his name; along with many others. Each evening provides a fresh opportunity to discover the intricacies and mysteries of watchmaking or to explore the various related arts and crafts.

Design: A question of style Geneva: Tuesday, 29.1.2013

Watches’ outward appearance will prove a source of visual

Lugano: Wednesday, 30.1.2013

delight throughout this evening. We will be presenting

Zurich:

glamorous designs as well as avant-garde technologies from

Thursday, 31.1.2013

a range of legendary brands. This elegant event will also feature some truly extraordinary masterpieces. Artistic crafts: Exceptional ornamentation Geneva: Tuesday, 19.3.2013

As early as the 18th and 19th centuries, owners of high-end

Lugano: Wednesday, 20.3.2013

pocket-watches already wished to have their models decorated or

Zurich:

personalised, whether by means of an engraved name, a guillo-

Thursday, 21.3.2013

ché motif, an ornamental miniature painting or gemsetting with diamonds and other precious stones... These hand-crafted gestures boast a longstanding tradition. During this event, we will have the pleasure of presenting some particularly subtle creations imbued with considerable expertise. Technique: The quest for precision Geneva: Tuesday, 21.5.2013

Is it possible to equip a traditional watch movement with

Lugano: Wednesday, 22.5.2013

an additional complication? Prepare to be surprised; in fact

Zurich:

you probably won’t believe your eyes, as we introduce

Thursday, 23.5.2013

some mecahnical movements that have revolutionised watchmaking history. Professional watches: Pilot’s watches Geneva: Tuesday, 17.9.2013

These wristwatches, specially designed to meet pilots’ needs,

Lugano: Wednesday, 18.9.2013

have existed since Humankind has achieved the dream of Icarus.

Zurich:

The early days of aviation represented one of the cutting-edge

Thursday, 19.9.2013

engineering performances of the era, which is precisely why many watchmakers began creating wristwatches for pilots in order to be associated in this quest for precision and sophisticated technology. During this evening, we will present an array

Espace Connaisseur: a World of Excellence where Experts and Enthusiasts meet.

of aeronautical and aerospace technology feats created by legendary watchmakers. Extraordinary complications: Haute Horlogerie Geneva: Tuesday, 19.11.2013

The concept of Haute Horlogerie refers to the most accomplished

Lugano: Wednesday, 20.11.2013

mechanical timepieces and in particular the ability to create the

Zurich:

most sophisticated horological complications. On this evening,

Thursday, 21.11.2013

we will share with you some of the secrets of the most prestigious

The teams of our Geneva, Lugano and Zurich boutiques are available to provide any further information on the Espace Connaisseur evenings.

luxury watch manufacturers who can lay claim to a rich history, a broad range of skills and impressive expertise in the field of Fine Watchmaking.

| L.A 11 |

Page 47

L.A _ESPACE CONNAISSEUR EVENTS

1. Espace Connaisseur - Chanel event 2. Espace Connaisseur - Greubel Forsey event 3. Espace Connaisseur - Roger Dubuis event 4. Espace Connaisseur - Bovet event

1 2

Page 48 | L.A 11 |

BOUTIQUE EVENTS_ L.A

THE FIRST LADIES ONLY PARTY i Beauty, dreams and glamour: such was the menu prepared for the invitees to the first Ladies Only Party events organised in Geneva, Lugano and Zurich on June 19th, 20th and 21st. On this occasion, LES AMBASSADEURS invited its jewellery partners Mattioli, Mikimoto, MIMI, Pomellato and Wellendorff to come and present their collections and the seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new releases. BREITLING EVENING WITH MARK STREIT p In order to honour the excellent collaboration between LES AMBASSADEURS and Breitling since 1986, a cocktail with an exclusive presentation of the latest models was organised in Zurich on June 7th 2012. This fine evening event featured the presence of Swiss hockey player Mark Streit, who is currently playing on the New York Islanders team and has been a Breitling ambassador for the past two years.

| L.A 11 |

Page 49

L.A _PEOPLE

Text: Mathilde Binetruy

Live from

Geneva

Julien’s favourite places:

La Cour des Augustins In the heart of Geneva’s “Latin quarter”, the boutique hotel La Cour des Augustins provides an urban, modern retreat. 16 rooms and 24 suites marrying design, comfort and technology provide a stylish base from which to get to know Geneva, its old town, its Art quarter, its business centre and its charming Sardinian village, Carouge. An added bonus is that this is also a boutique stocking some amazing contemporary items. Diablocally tempting! La Cour des Augustins, Rue Jean-Violette 15, 1205 Geneva T. +41 (0)22 322 21 00, www.lacourdesaugustins.com

L’Escapade Discreetly decorated, with fine, subtle cuisine and a terrace that is an open invitation to lazing, l’Escapade is the place to go for an enjoyable moment. Friendly and smiling, Christophe Frutiger and his team are excellent hosts who are the best kept secret in Geneva. Within a quiet, relaxed atmosphere, they offer a daring menu where French and Mediterranean cuisine rub shoulders, as well as a large selection of wines. Want to bet you’ll be back? L’Escapade, Avenue Krieg 7, 1208 Geneva T. +41 (0)22 347 83 19, www.restaurantescapade.ch

Wine route Geneva has the Jet d’eau, watchmaking, chocolate – and a unique wine growing area. Perched villages and hillsides covered in bunches of grapes are the signature of Geneva’s winelands, from Lully to Dardagny via Soral. On foot, bicycle or by car, the wine route (9 km) and Dardagny’s educational path (2.5 to 7.2 km) offer a different view of the grape varieties and of local fauna. Parallel to this, a visit to the cellars is a must and a place where many will be tempted to linger… Genève Tourisme, Rue du Mont-Blanc 18, Case postale 1602, 1211 Geneva 1 T. +41 (0)22 909 70 00, www.geneve-tourisme.ch

La Dôle mountain range It is instantly recognisable: a “white mushroom” worthy of Gulliver peaking at an altitude of 1,677 m on the summit of a Franco-Swiss region. When the sun peeks through the clouds, La Dôle mountain range provides an incredible 360° view over the Alps, Lake Geneva, the Monts Jura range and the Rousses valley. This is an ideal location for a summer hike and for winter skiing. At the foot of the mountain lies Les Rousses resort with longed-for mulled wine. Les Rousses Tourist Office, 495 rue Pasteur, F-39220 Les Rousses T. + 33 (0)3 84 60 02 55, www.lesrousses.com

Page 50 | L.A 11 |

Name:

Julien Lechenne

Function: After-Sales Manager Watchmaker Address:

LES AMBASSADEURS Rue du Rhône 62 – 1204 Geneva T. +41 (0)22 318 62 22 geneve@lesambassadeurs.ch

How long have you been working for Les Ambassadeurs? I joined the team a little over a year ago. What have the three most important steps of your professional career been? I did my apprenticeship at Patek Philippe and after that I worked for the brand in Geneva and New York. Following this, Bucherer offered me a job as Head of Customer Service. Finally, in 2011, I became Head of Client Service at Les Ambassadeurs’ Geneva boutique. I have to say I love professional challenges. How do you take time out? I love sport. I enjoy football, tennis and rollerblading, and in winter I ski a lot. What is the most precious thing in the world for you? My family. Your dream journey? Lapland and its Aurora Borealis Your motto? “Life is like riding a bicycle – to keep your balance you must keep moving” (Albert Einstein).

PEOPLE_ L.A

Text: Mathilde Binetruy

Live from

Zurich

Serge’s favourite places:

Restaurant Le Chef

Name:

Serge Forster

Function: Branch Manager Address:

LES AMBASSADEURS Bahnhofstrasse 64 – 8001 Zurich T. +41 (0)44 227 17 17 zuerich@lesambassadeurs.ch

How long have you been working for Les Ambassadeurs? I joined Les Ambassadeurs boutique in Zurich on April 1st 2012. What have the three most important steps in your career been? After training as a watchmaker, I worked for Rolex and Audemars Piguet. I was lucky enough to have several international experiences in Singapore, China, Australia and in the Caribbean. And because I always work on the principle that the best is yet to come, I am looking forward to this new challenge at Les Ambassadeurs Zurich boutique. How do you take time out? As simply as having a cigar and a good whisky in La Corona bar lounge at Uster, a little town just outside Zurich. What is your most precious thing in the world? My family. Your dream journey? Patagonia. Your motto? “Success is liking yourself, liking what you do and liking how you do it’” - Maya Angelou

A warm breeze of amiability blows through this place with its 21st century cuisine. At Le Chef, diets are left in the cloakroom so that guests can make the most of good fare. On the menu: traditional dishes, with old favourites and others that are flambéed in front of guests on vintage stoves. Ingredients are seasonal and regional and game is the result of the establishment’s own hunting. This place is synonymous with the word hedonism. Restaurant Le Chef, Kanonengasse 29, 8004 Zurich T. + 41 (0)44 240 41 00, www.restaurant-lechef.ch

Storchen Zürich The Storchen Zürich wins the bucolic hotel competition hands down. Nestled on the banks of the Limmat, the establishment boasts a superb view over the river, the Grossmünster Towers and the office blocks on the Limmatquai. With a foot in the old town and another near the station, the location is the ideal starting point to get to know Zurich. Eating here provides a feeling of enjoying a complete getaway. And if needs be, the piano-bar is perfect for a romantic evening. Storchen Zürich, Weinplatz 2, 8001 Zurich, T. +41 (0)44 227 27 27, www.storchen.ch

From the Bahnhofstrasse to Bellevue A pleasant walk in Zurich which is also number one on the temptation list when it comes to shopping. The city’s shopping mile extends from the station to the lake. Expect a myriad boutiques including Les Ambassadeurs Zurich as well as a good walk during which, weather permitting, the Holy Grail remains to spot the Alps. The supreme recompense is upon arriving in Bellevue, with the best veal sausage in the world made by Sternen Grill. Zurich Tourist Office, Zurich Central Station, 8021 Zurich T. +41 (0)44 215 40 00, www.zuerich.ch

Bellerive Museum An incredibly peaceful atmosphere reigns supreme. At the Bellerive Museum, it feels like the good karma of the place stops time in its tracks. Three times a year, in the context of its temporary exhibitions, the museum presents everything produced by international artists in the realm of games, decoration and functional objects. The halls are also opened to the world of fashion, design and contemporary trends. For a Sunday afternoon where hours are forgotten. but not culture. Bellerive Museum, Höschgasse 3, 8008 Zurich T. +41 (0)43 446 44 69, www.museum-bellerive.ch

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Page 51

L.A _PEOPLE

Text: Mathilde Binetruy

Live from

Lugano

Salvatore’s favourite places:

Resort Collina d’Oro It’s a picture-postcard setting. Firstly the view – below the hotel, the lake emerges from incredible mountainous surroundings. And secondly the luxury – 16 rooms, 28 suites and 43 apartments for a stay combining total wellbeing and comfort. Perched high on the hill, the Resort Collina d’Oro provides an opportunity for guests to taste the charm of simple things – delicious Mediterranean cuisine and relaxing treatments with Ticino’s natural beauty as the backdrop. Like has never seemed this sweet … Resort Collina d’Oro, 22 Via Roncone, 6927 Collina d’Oro T. + 41 (0)91 641 11 11, www.resortcollinadoro.com

Name:

Salvatore Cucinotta

Function: After-Sales Manager Watchmaker Address:

LES AMBASSADEURS Via Nassa 5 – 6900 Lugano T. +41 (0)91 923 51 56 lugano@lesambassadeurs.ch

Osteria Grotto Malakoff The welcome is as warm as the cuisine. A family inn that makes you feel at home, the Osteria Grotto Malakoff is one of those addresses that are cosy and comfortably charming. Owners Rita and Antonio pamper their guests with unique recipes that awaken the palate and rekindle the tastebuds. Dessert is an open invitation to give in to temptation and Tiramisu à l’orange made by Rita is the house speciality. Simply irresistible! Osteria Grotto Malakoff, Carrale Bacilieri 10, 6500 Bellinzona, T. + 41 (0)91 825 49 40

Olive park and trail Nothing better than this trip to get to know everything about olive culture. Eighteen informative panels guide walkers through the history of this legendary tree. The terraced path goes through Gandria and Castagnola, through an area of rare natural beauty. Don’t miss the old “Olivo del Carlin”, ten metres high and with a trunk that has a diameter of 45 centimetres, which majestically dominates the lake waters. Parco e sentiero dell’olivo, Lato sud del Monte Brè, 6976 Castagnola T. +41 (0)58 866 66 00, www.lugano-tourism.ch

Lido Locarno Overlooking Lake Maggiore, the Lido Locarno offers an elevated panoramic view that naturally also raises spirits within a delightfully green setting. Featuring indoor and outdoor pools, an Olympic swimming pool, thermal bath, paddling pools and slide, this peaceful haven devoted to fun is the most all-round aquatic centre in Ticino. Next step: a “Well-being and Spa” area due to open in 2013 and which will further contribute to offering a sense of total pleasure. Lido Locarno, Via Respini 11, 6601 Locarno T. + 41 (0)91 759 90 00, www.lidolocarno.ch

Page 52 | L.A 11 |

How long have you been working for Les Ambassadeurs? I was hired when the team was being created. It has always been and indeed still is a big professional challenge. What have the three most important steps in your professional career been? I started my apprenticeship in 1970 in a watchmaking laboratory. In 1978, I was hired by Breitling prior to continuing my career in Bucherer’s After-Sales Service. Following this, in 2001, I was asked to join Les Ambassadeurs boutique in Lugano where after 11 years, I am still just as enthusiastic about the job. How do you take time out? I like hiking in the mountains and bike trips. What is your most precious thing in the world? Unquestionably my family. Your dream journey? Tibet. I am fascinated by the culture of this country. Your motto? You reap what you sow.

PEOPLE_ L.A

Text: Mathilde Binetruy

Live from

St. Moritz

Mohamed’s favourite places:

Pizzeria Caruso

Name:

Mohamed Shaaban

Function: Branch Manager Address:

LES AMBASSADEURS Palace Galerie – 7500 St. Moritz T. +41 (0)81 833 51 77 stmoritz@lesambassadeurs.ch

How long have you been working for Les Ambassadeurs? I have been working for Les Ambassadeurs’ boutique in St. Moritz for ten years now. What have the three most important steps in your professional career been? I was born in Egypt and I remained there until I was 25. When I arrived in Switzerland, with a diploma as a mechanic and experience in jewellery, I refined my professional experience at Christ and Meister prior to joining the team at Les Ambassadeurs St. Moritz in 2002. How do you take time out? I love sport – hiking, snowboard, swimming, etc. I also really enjoy reading. And more than anything, I like spending time with my family. What is your most precious thing in the world? Definitely my family! Your dream journey? There are many – Canada, Dubai, Japan ... Your motto? “Respect others and they will respect you”.

The tastebud promise of this place is instantly apparent! Located in the Laudinella Hotel, the Pizzeria Caruso is next door about ten other restaurants and as many temptations. This location is firstly sought after for its service – which is perfect – and for its rich menu. Pasta and pizzas are a big treat for tourists who forget their good resolutions to look after their figures. Logically speaking, an evening is enough to make customers vow to return as often as they can. Pizzeria Caruso, Via Tegiatscha 17, 7500 St. Moritz T. +41 (0)81 836 00 00, www.laudinella.ch

Badrutt’s Palace Hotel What makes a hotel last forever? Since 1896, the Badrutt’s Palace Hotel has enjoyed a legendary reputation across the world. Its secret? A unique location coupled with a well-rounded offer. Meaning: 157 guest rooms including 38 suites with view over the Alps, delicious meals, a completely renovated spa, an exclusive shopping mall, a children’s club and entertainment for teenagers. A place that has been polished by time while breaking free of its hold. Badrutt’s Palace Hotel, Via Serlas 27, 7500 St. Moritz T. +41 (0)81 837 10 00, www.badruttspalace.com

Iglu-Dorf How about a quick trip to the Great North? Rendez-vous at the Iglu-Dorf, a unique recreation area with a dream view over the lakeside countryside of Haute Engadine. Iglu-dorf rents out igloos for up to 120 people and is located very close to the panoramic Muottas Muragl mountain resort. For a rewarding day out skiing, stop off at the Igloo Bar in the morning, the Igloo BBQ at lunchtime and finish up at the Igloo Fondue in the evening. And perhaps an Eskimo icecream for dessert? Iglu-Dorf GmbH, Rotzbergstrasse 15, 6362 Stansstad T. +41 (0)41 612 27 28, www.iglu-dorf.com

Berry Museum This is one of the favourite haunts of fans of painter Peter Robert Berry (1864-1942). In the heart of St. Moritz, tucked away in the Villa Arona – its home for more than a century – the Berry Museum pays tribute to the doctor and painter of the same name. Most of the oil paintings, pastels and drawings that he achieved over some 40 years are still owned by his family. The location is a treasure trove and what a pleasure it is to discover the work of an artist with a capital A! Berry Museum, Via Arona 32, 7500 St. Moritz T. + 41 (0)81 833 30 18, www.berrymuseum.com

| L.A 11 |

Page 53

PRECIOUS Photographer: Andreas Mierswa Assistant: Sebastian Resch Production : Opus Magnum Art director: Nicolas Zentner Hair & Make-up: Julie Monot Model: Anna

Harmonia Collection

18K yellow gold earrings with quartz and smoky quartz, white diamonds totalling 0.13 cts. Ref. AS01-12331007 - CHF

4,680.–

18K yellow gold bracelet with quartz and smoky quartz, white diamonds totalling 0.23 cts. Ref. AS04-12225932 -

CHF 9,050.–

Urbana Collection

18K yellow gold necklace with quartz, amethyst and prasiolith Ref. AS02-11873760 -

CHF 10,300.–

Les Ambassadeurs Collection

18K white gold earrings set with white diamonds totalling 3.06 cts. Ref. HO01-1222a2366-3.06 - CHF

75,180.–

18K white gold Tennis necklace set with white diamonds totalling 13.37 cts. Ref. PCD02-BB06CT13.37 - CHF

39,900.–

white gold 126 cm Tennis necklace set with white diamonds totalling 31.58 cts. Ref. 13271-CO-002 - CHF

100,500.–

18K white gold Tennis bracelet set with white diamonds totalling 5.71 cts. Ref. PCD04-BB06CT5.71 - CHF

19,500.–

18K white gold ring set with one 2.02 ct emerald-cut white diamond. Ref. PCD03-BB06CT2.02 - CHF

55,900.–

18K white gold ring set with one 1.53 ct white diamond. Ref. HO03-1222A2365-1.53 - CHF

32,350.–

18K white gold earrings set with white diamonds totalling 5.95 cts. Ref. GE13957 - CHF

58,300.–

18K white gold ring set with white diamonds totalling 3.75 cts. Ref. GR19798 - CHF

35,550.–

18K white gold necklace set with white diamonds totalling 6.55 cts. Ref. GN6672 - CHF

99,800.–

Tibet Collection

18K multi-coloured rose gold earrings Ref. MOR75031 - CHF

4,800.–

Navettes Collection

18K rose gold and 18K white gold necklace set with white diamonds totalling 0.94 cts. Ref. MGI75006B - CHF

11,000.–

Tibet Collection

18K multi-coloured rose gold ring Ref. MAN75005R - CHF

5,130.–

Tibet Collection

18K white gold ring set with white diamonds totalling 2.21 cts. Ref. MAN75005B - CHF

9,100.–

White South Seas cultured pearl necklace (sautoir), size: 11-12 mm Ref. KFRW900-85 - CHF

94,900.–

New Classic Collection from Mikimoto Milano Collection By Giovanna Broggian

18K white gold earrings with white South Seas cultured pearl, size: 11 mm, white diamonds totalling 1 ct. Ref. OSW872B2 - CHF

12,250.–

Libellula Collection from Mikimoto Milano Collection by Giovanna Broggian

18K white gold ring with white South Seas cultured pearl, size 16 mm, set with white diamonds totalling 1.08 cts . Ref. ABM10WB-16 - CHF

33,650.–

Bon Ton Clori Collection

18K rose gold earrings set with rose quartz, peridot and white diamonds totalling 0.48 cts. Ref. 14215R - CHF

7,000.–

18K rose gold necklace set with rose quartz, peridot and white diamonds totalling 0.35 cts. Ref. 14208R - CHF

5,150.–

18K rose gold ring set with rose quartz, peridot and white diamonds totalling 0.49 cts. Ref. 14202R -

CHF 7,000.–

18K rose gold ring set with amethyst, peridot and white diamonds totalling 0.39 cts. Ref. 14204R - CHF

5,500.–

Bahia Collection Limited Collection

18K white gold earrings set with an aquamarine and white diamonds totalling 0.46 cts. Ref. OB002BO2OF - CHF

23,360.â&#x20AC;&#x201C;

18K white gold ring set with an aquamarine and white diamonds totalling 0.47 cts. Ref. AB002BO2OF - CHF

21,050.â&#x20AC;&#x201C;

18K yellow gold “Brillance of the Sun” earrings set with white diamonds totalling 0.04 cts. Ref. 8.8605 - CHF

7,280.–

18K yellow gold “Silky Trio” necklace with W set with one 0.02 ct white diamond. Ref. 4.6658 - CHF

15,780.–

18K yellow gold “Angel’s Hair” ring set with white diamonds totalling 0.91 cts. Ref. 6.6995 - CHF

30,330.–

18K yellow gold “Maxi Diamond Game” bracelet set with white diamonds totalling 1.63 cts. Ref. 3.4663 - CHF

49,780.–

WATCHES A .La nge & Söhne A udem a rs Piguet Bell & Ros s Bla ncpa in Bov et Breguet Breit ling Ca rt ier Cha nel Fra nck Muller Gira rd- Perregaux Greubel Fors ey Ha rry Wins t on I WC Ja eger- LeCoult re Ja erm a nn & St übi Jaquet Droz Longines Pa nera i Roger Dubuis T iffa ny & Co. Ulys s e Na rdin Urwerk Vacheron Cons ta nt in Vulca in

& MORE Buben & Zörweg Vert u All prices shown may be subject to change.

WATCHES Page 74 | L.A 11

Ref. 116.039

LANGE 1 TIME ZONE Movement mechanical hand-wound, Manufacture Calibre L031.1. Power reserve: 72 hours. Functions hours, minutes, small seconds with stop seconds, outsize date, day/night indication. Second time zone with city ring and day/night indication. UP/DOWN power-reserve indicator. Case 18K white gold. Diameter: 41.90 mm. Sapphire crystal and sapphire case-back. Dial solid silver, silver-toned. Strap hand-sewn crocodile leather. Price CHF 46,000.–

Ref. 211.026

SAXONIA THIN Movement mechanical hand-wound, Manufacture Calibre L093.1. Power reserve: 72 hours. Functions hours, minutes. Case 18K white gold. Diameter: 40 mm. Sapphire crystal and case-back. Dial solid silver, silver-toned. Strap hand-sewn crocodile leather. Price CHF 21,700.–

Ref. 405.035

DATOGRAPH UP/DOWN Movement mechanical hand-wound, Manufacture Calibre L951.6. Power reserve: 60 hours. Functions hours, minutes, small seconds with stop seconds, outsize date. Flyback chronograph with precisely jumping minute counter. UP/DOWN power-reserve indicator. Case platinum. Diameter: 41 mm. Sapphire crystal and case-back. Dial solid silver, black. Strap hand-sewn crocodile leather. Price CHF 80,200.–

WATCHES Page 76 | L.A 11

Ref. 15706AU.OO.A002CA.01

ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE DIVER Movement mechanical self-winding, Manufacture Calibre 3120. Power reserve: 60 hours. Functions hours, minutes, seconds, date. Rotating inner bezel ring with diving scale and 60 to 15 minute zone in yellow. Case forged carbon with ceramic bezel. Diameter: 42 mm. Sapphire crystal. Water-resistant to 300 m. Dial black with “Méga Tapisserie” motif. Strap rubber. Price CHF 24,900.–

Ref. 15451ST.ZZ.D011CR.01

ROYAL OAK SELFWINDING Movement mechanical self-winding, Manufacture Calibre 3120. Power reserve: 60 hours. Functions hours, minutes, seconds, date. Case steel with diamond-set bezel. Diameter: 37 mm. Glareproofed sapphire crystal and sapphire case-back. Water-resistant to 50 m. Dial silver-toned with “Grande Tapisserie” motif. Strap leather with AP triple folding clasp. Price CHF 21,400.– Total carat weight: 0.90 cts.

Ref. 26320OR.OO.D088CR.01

ROYAL OAK CHRONOGRAPH Movement mechanical self-winding, Calibre 2385. Power reserve: 40 hours. Functions hours, minutes, small seconds, date. Column-wheel chronograph with sweep seconds-hand, 30-minute and 12-hour counters. Case 18K rose gold. Diameter: 41 mm. Glareproofed sapphire crystal. Water-resistant to 50 m. Dial silver-toned with “Grande Tapisserie” motif. Strap hand-sewn crocodile leather with AP folding clasp. Price CHF 41,700.–

WATCHES Page 78 | L.A 11

Ref. BRV126-COMMANDO

VINTAGE BR 126 ORIGINAL COMMANDO Movement mechanical self-winding, ETA Calibre 2894. Functions hours, minutes, seconds, date. Chronograph with sweep seconds-hand and 60-second and 30-minute totalisers. Case steel with black PVD finish. Diameter: 41 mm. Glareproofed domed sapphire crystal. Water-resistant to 100 m. Dial grey with photo-luminescent numerals, hour-markers and hands. Strap grey calfskin. Price CHF 4,200.–

Ref. BRWW1-MONO-HER/SCA

WW1 CHRONOGRAPHE MONOPOUSSOIR HERITAGE Movement mechanical self-winding La Joux-Perret, Calibre LJP 8201 MPC. Functions hours, minutes, small seconds. Single-pusher chronograph with 60-second and 30-minute totalisers. Case polished steel. Diameter: 45 mm. Glareproofed sapphire crystal. Water-resistant to 100 m. Dial brown, cambered with sand-coloured photo-luminescent numerals, hour-markers and hands. Snailed counters. Strap calfskin. Price CHF 6,800.–

Ref. BR0196-ALTIMETER

BR 01-96 ALTIMETER Movement mechanical self-winding, Calibre ETA 2896. Functions hours, minutes, seconds. Large date. Case steel with black PVD finish. Diameter: 46 mm. Glareproofed sapphire crystal. Water-resistant to 100 m. Dial black with hands, time indications and date window covered with a photo-luminescent coating. Strap rubber and synthetic canvas. Price CHF 4,800.– Limited edition of 999.

Ref. 6633-1500-55B

VILLERET SQUELETTE 8 JOURS Movement mechanical hand-wound, Calibre 1333SQ. Power reserve: 8 days. Functions hours, minutes, seconds. Case 18K white gold. Diameter: 38 mm. Sapphire crystal and case-back. Water-resistant to 3 bar. Dial hand-engraved. Strap alligator leather with folding clasp. Price CHF 63,800.–

Ref. 6654-1529-55B

VILLERET QUANTIÈME COMPLET Movement mechanical self-winding, Calibre 6654. Fully secure calendar and moon-phase mechanism. Power reserve: 72 hours. Functions hours, minutes, seconds. Complete calendar indicating the date, day, months, phases and age of the moon. Under-lug correctors. Case 18K white gold. Diameter: 40 mm. Sapphire crystal and case-back. Water-resistant to 3 bar. Dial flinqué blue lacquered. Strap alligator leather with folding clasp. Price CHF 24,000.–

Ref. 6604-2944-55A

WOMEN ULTRAPLATE Movement mechanical self-winding, Calibre 1150. Power reserve: 100 hours. Functions hours, minutes, seconds, date. Case 18K red gold with diamond-set bezel. Diameter: 34 mm. Sapphire crystal. Water-resistant to 3 bar. Dial white mother-of-pearl with diamond hour-markers. Strap alligator leather. Price CHF 23,900.– Total carat weight: 1.06 cts.

WATCHES L.A 11 |

Page 81

Ref. ATPA012-C123467SD5

AMADEO® FLEURIER 44 BUTTERFLY TOURBILLON mechanical hand-wound, Calibre 12BM05, bridges set with 76 baguette-cut diamonds. Power reserve: 110 hours. Functions hours, minutes. Tourbillon. Case 18K white gold. Diameter: 44 mm. Convertible into a wristwatch, a pocket-watch and a table clock (AMADEO® system). Bezel, bow, lug, case middle, case-back and mainplate adorned with hand-chiselled engraving motif. Glareproofed sapphire crystal. Water-resistant to 30 m. Dial openwork, framed by inner bezel ring set with 60 diamonds. Strap alligator leather. Price CHF 422,300.– Movement

Total carat weight: 1.16 cts. Delivered with an 18K white gold chain.

Ref. TPIND001

AMADEO® TOURBILLON OTTANTADUE Movement mechanical hand-wound, Calibre 14BM03AI. Power reserve: 7 days. Functions hours, minutes, seconds. Power-reserve indication. Time displayed on the back (reversed hand-fitting). Tourbillon. Case 18K red gold. Diameter: 45 mm. Convertible into a wristwatch, a pocket-watch and a table clock (AMADEO® system). Glareproofed sapphire crystal and sapphire case-back. Water-resistant to 100 m. Strap rubber. Price CHF 205,200.– Optional 18K red gold chain.

Ref. AF43031

AMADEO® FLEURIER 43 Movement mechanical self-winding, Calibre 11BA12. Power reserve: 72 hours. Functions hours, minutes, small seconds. Power-reserve indication. Case 18K red gold. Diameter: 43 mm. Convertible into a wristwatch, a pocket-watch and a table clock (AMADEO® system). Glareproofed sapphire crystal and sapphire case-back. Water-resistant to 30 m. Dial black meteorite. Strap alligator leather. Price CHF 42,200.– Delivered with a gold-plated silver chain.

WATCHES L.A 11 |

Page 83

WATCHES Page 84 | L.A 11

Ref. 5400BR/12/9V6

HÉRITAGE CHRONOGRAPHE Movement mechanical self-winding, Calibre 550. Power reserve: 52 hours. Functions hours, minutes, small seconds, date. Chronograph with sweep seconds-hand, 30-minute and 12-hour counters. Case 18K rose gold. Dimensions: 42 x 35 mm. Sapphire crystal. Water-resistant to 3 bar. Dial cambered, hand-guilloché silvered gold. Individual numbering. Strap leather. Price CHF 42,000.–

Ref. 8861BR/11/386 D000

HÉRITAGE PHASES DE LUNE RÉTROGRADE Movement mechanical self-winding, Calibre 586L. Power reserve: 40 hours. Functions hours, minutes. Moon-phase indicator. Case 18K rose gold featuring bezel set with 140 diamonds. Dimensions: 35 x 25 mm. Sapphire crystal. Water-resistant to 3 bar. Dial frosted silver-toned around the outside. hand-guilloché natural mother-of-pearl with “alternating flinqué” motif in the centre. Individual numbering. Strap leather. Price CHF 32,500.– Total carat weight: 1.14 cts.

Ref. 5857ST/12/5ZU

MARINE GMT Movement mechanical self-winding, Calibre 517F. Power reserve: 72 hours. Functions reference-time hours and minutes at 6 o’clock. Date. Second time zone in the centre. 24-hour indicator at 2 o’clock. Case steel. Diameter: 42 mm. Sapphire crystal and case-back. Water-resistant to 10 bar. Dial hand-guilloché silvered gold. Individual numbering. Strap leather. Price CHF 23,000.–

Ref. RB0510U0/A733

TRANSOCEAN CHRONOGRAPH UNITIME Movement mechanical self-winding, Manufacture Breitling Calibre 05. Chronometer-certified by the COSC. Power reserve: 70 hours. Functions hours, minutes, small seconds, date. World time. Simultaneous read-off of all 24 time zones. ¼th second chronograph, 30-minute and 12-hour totalisers. Case 18K red gold. Diameter: 46 mm. Convex sapphire crystal, glareproofed on both sides. Water-resistant to 100 m. Dial Polar white. Strap crocodile leather. Price CHF 27,530.–

Ref. U2337012/BB81

SUPEROCEAN HÉRITAGE CHRONOGRAPH 44 Movement mechanical self-winding, Breitling Calibre 23. Chronometer-certified by the COSC. Power reserve: 42 hours. Functions hours, minutes, small seconds, date. ¼th second chronograph, 30-minute totaliser. Case steel and 18K red gold. Diameter: 44 mm. Unidirectional rotating bezel. Cambered sapphire crystal, glareproofed on both sides. Water-resistant to 200 m. Dial Volcano black. Strap Ocean Racer with folding clasp. Price CHF 6,960.–

Ref. A1931012/G750

TRANSOCEAN CHRONOGRAPH 1461 Movement mechanical self-winding, Breitling Calibre 19. Chronometer-certified by the COSC. Power reserve: 42 hours. Functions hours, minutes, small seconds. Leap-year calendar indicating the date, day, month, moon phases. ¼th second chronograph, 30-minute and 12-hour totalisers. Case steel. Diameter: 43 mm. Convex sapphire crystal, glareproofed on both sides. Water-resistant to 50 m. Dial Mercury silver. Strap crocodile leather. Price CHF 9,170.–

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Ref. W1560017

TANK LOUIS CARTIER EXTRA-FLAT WATCH Movement mechanical hand-wound, Manufacture Calibre 430 MC. Power reserve: 40 hours. Functions hours, minutes. Case 18K rose gold. Dimensions: 34.92 (with crown) x 40.40 x 5.1 mm. Mineral glass. Water-resistant to 20 m. Dial grained, silver-toned. Strap alligator leather. Price CHF 12,700.–

Ref. HPI00586

BALLON BLEU DE CARTIER FLYING TOURBILLON Movement mechanical hand-wound, Manufacture Calibre 9452 MC, Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark. Power reserve: 50 hours. Individually numbered. Functions hours, minutes. Flying tourbillon with seconds indication via the C-shaped carriage. Case rhodiumed 18K white gold set with baguette-cut diamonds. Diameter: 46 mm. Beaded 18K white gold crown adorned with a cabochon-cut sapphire. Sapphire crystal and case-back. Water-resistant to 30 m. Dial rhodiumed 18K white gold paved with baguette-cut diamonds. Strap alligator leather with folding clasp. Price CHF 334,000.– Total carat weight: 7.5 cts.

Ref. HPI00490

PROMENADE D’UNE PANTHÈRE WATCH Movement mechanical self-winding, Manufacture Calibre 9603 MC. Power reserve: 48 hours. Individually numbered. Functions hours, minutes. Case rhodiumed 18K white gold set with brillant-cut diamonds. Diameter: 42 mm. Beaded crown adorned with a diamond. Sapphire crystal and case-back. Water-resistant to 30 m. Dial dark purple mother-of-pearl with rhodiumed 18K white gold panther-motif oscillating weight set with brilliant-cut diamonds. Strap alligator leather with ardillon buckle set with brilliant-cut diamonds. Price CHF 166,000.– Total carat weight: 7.06 cts.

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Ref. H2563

J12 CHROMATIC Movement quartz. Functions hours, minutes, seconds. Case titanium ceramic and steel with diamond-set bezel. Diameter: 33 mm. Sapphire crystal. Water-resistant to 50 m. Dial powder-pink with 8 diamond hour-markers. Bracelet titanium ceramic with steel triple folding clasp. Price CHF 13,290.– Total carat weight: 1 ct.

Ref. H3131

J12 Movement Functions Case

Dial Bracelet Price

mechanical self-winding. Power reserve: 42 hours. hours, minutes, seconds, date. matt black high-tech ceramic. Diameter: 42 mm. Unidirectional rotating bezel. Sapphire crystal. Water-resistant to 200 m. black lacquered. high-tech ceramic with steel triple folding clasp. CHF 5,480.–

Ref. H3103

J12 Movement Functions Case

Dial Bracelet Price

mechanical self-winding. Power reserve: 42 hours. hours, minutes, seconds, date, GMT. high-tech ceramic. Diameter: 38 mm. Sapphire crystal. Water-resistant to 100 m. white lacquered. high-tech ceramic with steel triple folding clasp. CHF 5,890.–

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Ref. 8889 T G D8 MVT D

GIGA TOURBILLON Movement mechanical hand-wound, Calibre FM 2100. Power reserve: 9 days. Functions hours, minutes. Power-reserve indication. Tourbillon. Case cintrée Curvex, steel set with 474 diamonds. Dimensions: 43.70 x 59.20 mm. Sapphire crystal and case-back. Water-resistant to 3 bar. Dial set with 693 diamonds. Strap hand-sewn alligator leather. Price CHF 278,000.– Total carat weight: 11.43 cts.

Ref. 8880 SC DT NR GOTH

GOTHIQUE Movement mechanical self-winding, Calibre FM 0800. Power reserve: 42 hours. Functions hours, minutes, seconds, date. Case cintrée Curvex, black PVD-coated steel. Dimensions: 39.60 x 55.40. Sapphire crystal. Water-resistant to 3 bar. Dial black with a skull motif. Strap rubber with folding clasp. Price CHF 13,300.–

Ref. 952 QZ DP

LONG ISLAND Movement quartz. Functions hours, minutes. Case steel set with diamonds. Dimensions: 25.90 x 44.40. Sapphire crystal. Water-resistant to 3 bar. Dial white. Strap hand-sewn alligator leather. Price CHF 18,800.– Total carat weight: 2.11 cts.

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WATCHES Page 94 | L.A 11

Ref. 49527-52-131-BK6A

GIRARD-PERREGAUX 1966, 41 MM Movement mechanical self-winding, Calibre Girard-Perregaux GP4500. Power reserve: 54 hours. Functions hours, minutes, seconds, date. Case 18K rose gold. Diameter: 41 mm. Glareproofed sapphire crystal and sapphire case-back. Water-resistant to 30 m. Dial silver-toned. Strap alligator. Price CHF 16,100.–

Ref. 49524D53A752-CK7A

GIRARD-PERREGAUX 1966, LADY MOON-PHASES Movement mechanical self-winding, Calibre Girard-Perregaux 3300-0067. Power reserve: 46 hours. Functions hours, minutes, small seconds. Moon-phase indication. Case 18K white gold with diamond-set bezel. Diameter: 36 mm. Domed glareproofed sapphire crystal and glareproofed sapphire case-back. Water-resistant to 30 m. Dial white mother-of-pearl with 9 diamond hour-markers. Strap alligator leather with folding clasp. Price CHF 26,900.– Total carat weight: 1.41 cts.

Ref. 99193-53-000-BA6A

TOURBILLON WITH THREE GOLD BRIDGES, 41 MM Movement mechanical self-winding, Calibre GP9600C. Power reserve: 48 hours. Functions hours, minutes, small seconds on the tourbillon. Case 18K white gold. Diameter: 41 mm. Sapphire crystal. Water-resistant to 30 m. Dial featuring tourbillon with three Gold Bridges. Strap alligator leather with folding clasp. Price CHF 198,800.– Limited edition of 50.

Ref. 9100 1253

TOURBILLON 24 SECONDES CONTEMPORAIN Movement mechanical hand-wound, Calibre GF01c. Tourbillon 24 Secondes inclined at 25°. Power reserve: 72 hours. Functions hours, minutes, small seconds. Power reserve displayed on a sector. 24-second tourbillon rotation. Case platinum. Diameter: 43.50 mm. Convex synthetic sapphire crystal and synthetic sapphire case-back. Individually numbered. Water-resistant to 3 bar. Dial royal blue main plates. Strap hand-sewn dark blue alligator with Greubel Forsey folding clasp. Price CHF 464,400.– Limited edition of 33.

Ref. 9000 2395

DOUBLE TOURBILLON 30° TECHNIQUE Movement mechanical hand-wound, Calibre GF02s. Double Tourbillon 30°. Power reserve: 120 hours. Functions hours, minutes, small seconds. Power reserve displayed on a sector. Outer tourbillon 4-minute rotation indication. Case 18K 5N red gold. Diameter: 47.50 mm. Convex synthetic sapphire crystal and synthetic sapphire case-back. Individually numbered. Water-resistant to 3 bar. Strap hand-sewn alligator with Greubel Forsey folding clasp. Price CHF 540,000.–

Ref. 9001 1141

GMT Movement

Functions

Case

Dial Strap

Price

mechanical hand-wound, Calibre GF05. Tourbillon 24 Secondes inclined at 25°. Power reserve: 72 hours. hours, minutes, small seconds. Indication of the second time zone, of the time all over the world by a rotating titanium globe, and of the power-reserve on sectors. Case-back featuring worldtime disc with summertime zones. 18K white gold. Diameter: 43.50 mm. Convex synthetic sapphire crystal and case-back. Individually numbered. Water-resistant to 3 bar. 18K white gold, anthracite. hand-sewn dark blue alligator with Greubel Forsey folding clasp. CHF 550,800.–

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Ref. 400/MATZ44ZKC.K2

OCEAN DUAL TIME BLACK EDITION Movement mechanical self-winding. Power reserve: 45 hours. Functions off-centred hours and minutes with day/night indication. Large date. Small seconds (Shuriken). Second time zone with day/night indication. Case DLC-treated zalium. Diameter: 44.20 mm. Sapphire crystal and case-back. Water-resistant to 100 m. Dial opaline black. Strap rubber with folding clasp. Price CHF 40,000.–

Ref. 450/MA42WL.B

MIDNIGHT AUTOMATIC Movement mechanical self-winding. Power reserve: 45 hours. Functions hours, minutes, date. Case 18K white gold. Diameter: 42 mm. Sapphire crystal and case-back. Water-resistant to 30 m. Dial blue sunburst satin-brushed. Strap blue alligator leather. Price CHF 22,100.–

Ref. 210/LQ36RR.MPD/D3.1

PREMIER LADIES Movement quartz. Functions hours, minutes. Case 18K rose gold set with brilliant-cut diamonds. Diameter: 36 mm. Sapphire crystal. Water-resistant to 30 m. Dial shimmering rose mother-of-pearl, set with brilliant-cut diamond hour-markers. Bracelet 18K rose gold with folding clasp. Price CHF 45,900.– Total carat weight: 1.64 cts.

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Ref. IW502902

BIG PILOT’S WATCH PERPETUAL CALENDAR TOP GUN Movement mechanical self-winding Pellaton, Calibre 51614. Power reserve: 7 days. Functions hours, minutes and small seconds with stop-seconds device. Perpetual calendar indicating the date, day and months. Digital display of the year. Indication of the moon phases in the Northern and Southern hemispheres. Power-reserve display. Case ceramic. Diameter: 48 mm. Cambered sapphire crystal, glareproofed on both sides. Water-resistant to 6 bar. Dial black. Strap soft black fabric textile with high-grade steel folding clasp. Price CHF 38,000.–

Ref. IW388002

PILOT’S WATCH CHRONOGRAPH TOP GUN MIRAMAR Movement mechanical self-winding, Calibre 89365. Power reserve: 68 hours. Functions hours, minutes, small seconds with stop-seconds device, date. Flyback chronograph with sweep seconds-hand, stop-watch function with minutes and seconds. Case ceramic. Diameter: 46 mm. Cambered sapphire crystal, glareproofed on both sides. Water-resistant to 6 bar. Dial anthracite. Strap green textile. Price CHF 12,500.–

Ref. IW387803

SPITFIRE CHRONOGRAPH Movement mechanical self-winding, Calibre 89365. Power reserve: 68 hours. Functions hours, minutes, small seconds with stop-seconds device, date. Flyback chronograph with sweep seconds-hand, stop-watch function with minutes and seconds. Case 18K red gold. Diameter: 43 mm. Cambered sapphire crystal glareproofed on both sides. Water-resistant to 6 bar. Dial slate grey. Strap alligator leather. Price CHF 27,000.–

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Ref. 6052520

DUOMÈTRE SPHÉROTOURBILLON Movement mechanical hand-wound, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 382. Power reserve: 50 hours. Functions hours, minutes, small seconds with flyback function. Date. 24-hour home-time indication. Power-reserve indication for the hours and minutes movement and power-reserve indication for the regulator. Sphérotourbillon: multi-axis tourbillon with cylindrical balance-spring. Case 18K rose gold. Diameter: 42 mm. Cambered glareproofed sapphire crystal and case-back. Water-resistant to 5 bar. Dial grained, crystalline. Strap hand-sewn alligator leather. Price CHF 220,000.–

Ref. 3752520

GRANDE REVERSO CALENDAR Movement mechanical hand-wound, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 843. Power reserve: 45 hours. Functions hours, minutes. Complete calendar indicating the date, day, month, moon phases. Case 18K rose gold. Dimensions: 48.50 x 29.50 mm. Glareproofed sapphire crystal and sapphire case-back. Water-resistant to 3 bar. Dial silver-toned, vertical satin-brushed with central guilloché motif. Strap leather with triple folding clasp. Price CHF 18,800.–

Ref. 3448420

RENDEZ-VOUS NIGHT & DAY Movement mechanical self-winding, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 898A. Power reserve: 43 hours. Functions hours, minutes, seconds. Day/night indication. Case steel with diamond-set bezel. Diameter: 34 mm. Sapphire crystal and case-back. Water-resistant to 3 bar. Dial silver-toned guilloché. Strap blue alligator leather with folding clasp. Price CHF 13,300.– Total carat weight: 0.69 cts.

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Ref. TA3

TRANS ATLANTIC Movement mechanical self-winding, Calibre A10. COSC-certified chronometer. Power reserve: 42 hours. Functions hours, minutes, seconds. JS02 mechanical golf counter. Retrograde display of the holes played. Indication of the number of strokes per hole, of the total number of strokes and comparison of the handicap. Metre-yard conversion. Case steel with integrated shock absorber. Diameter: 44 mm. Rotating bezel. Sapphire crystal and case-back. Water-resistant to 100 m. Dial engraved guilloché. Strap rubber with folding clasp. Price CHF 8,000.–

Ref. ST5

ST. ANDREW LINKS Movement mechanical self-winding, Calibre A10. Power reserve: 42 hours. Functions hours, minutes, seconds. JS02 mechanical golf counter. Retrograde display of the holes played. Indication of the number of strokes per hole, of the total number of strokes and comparison of the handicap. Case steel with integrated shock absorber. Diameter: 44 mm. Sapphire crystal and case-back. Water-resistant to 100 m. Dial silver-toned, engraved guilloché motif. Strap alligator leather with folding clasp, damp-absorbent lining. Price CHF 8,900.–

Ref. QG2

QUEEN OF GOLF Movement mechanical self-winding, Calibre A10. Power reserve: 42 hours. Functions hours, minutes, seconds. JS04 mechanical golf counter. Indication of the number of strokes per hole and of the total number of strokes. Case steel with integrated shock absorber. Diameter: 38 mm. Diamond-set bezel. Sapphire crystal and case-back. Water-resistant to 50 m. Dial white mother-of-pearl. Strap calfskin, damp-absorbent lining. Price CHF 8,900.– Total carat weight: 0.60 cts.

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WATCHES Page 106 | L.A 11

Ref. J012630270

THE ECLIPSE ONYX Movement mechanical self-winding, Jaquet Droz Calibre 6553L2. Power reserve: 68 hours. Functions central hours, minutes and date. Moon-phase indication at 6 o’clock. Day and month indication at 12 o’clock. Case steel. Diameter: 43 mm. Sapphire crystal and case-back. Water-resistant to 3 bar. Individual numbering. Dial black onyx. Strap hand rolled-edge alligator leather. Price CHF 18,400.–

Ref. J006033200

GRANDE SECONDE OFF-CENTERED IVORY ENAMEL Movement mechanical self-winding, Jaquet Droz Calibre 2663A. Power reserve: 68 hours. Functions off-centred hours and minutes. Large seconds. Case 18K red gold. Diameter: 43 mm. Sapphire crystal and case-back. Water-resistant to 3 bar. Individual numbering. Dial ivory-coloured Grand Feu enamel. Strap rolled-edge alligator leather. Price CHF 20,550.–

Ref. J080031000

THE POCKET WATCH IVORY ENAMEL Movement mechanical hand-wound, Jaquet Droz Calibre 2615. Power reserve: 40 hours. Functions off-centred hours and minutes. Large seconds. Case 18K yellow gold. Diameter: 50 mm. Sapphire crystal and case-back. Individual numbering. Dial ivory Grand Feu enamel. Chain 18K yellow gold. Price CHF 28,100.–

Ref. L2.779.4.53.0

THE LONGINES AVIGATION WATCH TYPE A-7 Movement mechanical self-winding, Calibre 788.2. Power reserve: 54 hours. Functions hours, minutes, small seconds, date. Single-pusher column-wheel chronograph with sweep seconds-hand, 30-minute counter. Case steel half-hunter type. Diameter: 49 mm. Engraved and numbered cover opening to reveal a sapphire case-back. Water-resistant to 3 bar. Dial black. Strap alligator leather. Price CHF 4,500.–

Ref. L2.752.8.72.3

THE LONGINES SAINT-IMIER COLLECTION CHRONOGRAPH Movement mechanical self-winding, Calibre L688. Power reserve: 54 hours. Functions hours, minutes, small seconds, date. Single-pusher column-wheel chronograph with sweep seconds-hand, 30-minute and 12-hour counters. Case 18K rose gold. Diameter: 41 mm. Glareproofed sapphire crystal and sapphire case-back. Water-resistant to 3 bar. Dial silver-toned. Strap alligator leather with folding clasp. Price CHF 9,400.–

Ref. L4.513.0.11.2

LA GRANDE CLASSIQUE DE LONGINES Movement quartz L420. Functions hours, minutes. Case steel with diamond-set bezel (0.470 cts). Diameter: 29 mm. Sapphire crystal. Water-resistant to 3 bar. Dial white. Strap alligator leather. Price CHF 3,460.–

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Ref. PAM00421

RADIOMIR 3 DAYS GMT ORO ROSSO – 47 MM Movement mechanical hand-wound, Panerai Calibre P.3001. Power reserve: 72 hours. Functions hours, minutes, small seconds with reset function, date. Second time zone. Power-reserve indication on the case-back. Case 18K red gold. Diameter: 47 mm. Glareproofed sapphire crystal and sapphire case-back. Water-resistant to 5 bar. Dial brown with luminescent hour-markers, Arabic numerals and hands. Strap alligator leather with Panerai buckle. Price CHF 20,800.–

Ref. PAM00422

LUMINOR MARINA 1950 3 DAYS – 47 MM Movement mechanical hand-wound, Panerai Calibre P.3001. Power reserve: 72 hours. Functions hours, minutes, small seconds with reset function. Power-reserve indication on the case-back. Case polished steel. Diameter: 47 mm. Glareproofed sapphire crystal and sapphire case-back. Water-resistant to 10 bar. Dial black with luminescent hour-markers, Arabic numerals and hands. Strap leather with large-format Panerai buckle. Price CHF 9,100.–

Ref. PAM00392

LUMINOR MARINA 1950 3 DAYS AUTOMATIC – 42 MM Movement mechanical self-winding, Panerai Calibre P.9000. Power reserve: 72 hours. Functions hours, minutes, small seconds, date. Case satin-brushed steel. Diameter: 42 mm. Glareproofed sapphire crystal and sapphire case-back. Water-resistant to 10 bar. Dial black with luminescent hour-markers, Arabic numerals and hands. Strap alligator leather with Panerai buckle. Price CHF 6,500.–

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Ref. RDDBEX0283

EXCALIBUR DOUBLE FLYING TOURBILLON SKELETON IN PINK GOLD Movement mechanical hand-wound, Calibre RD01SQ, Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark. Power reserve: 48 hours. Functions hours, minutes. Double flying tourbillon with differential. Case 18K rose gold. Diameter: 45 mm. Glareproofed sapphire crystal and sapphire case-back. Water-resistant to 5 bar. Strap hand-sewn alligator leather with folding clasp. Price CHF 278,500.– Limited edition of 88.

Ref. RDDBPU0003

PULSION CHRONOGRAPH IN PINK GOLD Movement mechanical self-winding, Calibre RD680, Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark. COSC certification. Power reserve: 52 hours. Functions hours, minutes, small seconds at 9 o’clock. Double-pusher column-wheel chronograph sweep seconds-hand, 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock. Case 18K rose gold. Diameter: 44 mm. Glareproofed sapphire crystal and sapphire case-back. Water-resistant to 10 bar. Dial open to reveal the movement. Strap rubber with folding clasp. Price CHF 48,600.–

Ref. RDDBVE0006

VELVET IN PINK GOLD AND DIAMONDS Movement mechanical self-winding, Calibre RD822, Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark. Power reserve: 48 hours. Functions hours, minutes. Case 18K rose gold set with diamonds. Diameter: 36 mm. Glareproofed sapphire crystal and sapphire case-back. Water-resistant to 3 bar. Dial white mother-of-pearl. Strap beige satin with diamond-set folding clasp. Price CHF 36,700.– Total carat weight: 1.77 cts.

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Ref. Z1000.82.12A21A71A

ATLAS GENT CHRONOGRAPH Movement mechanical self-winding, ETA Calibre 7753. Power reserve: 46 hours. Functions hours, minutes, small seconds, date. Chronograph with sweep seconds-hand, 30-minute and 12-hour counters. Case steel. Diameter: 42 mm. Sapphire crystal glareproofed on both sides and sapphire case-back. Water-resistant to 10 bar. Dial silver-toned and black. Strap alligator leather with folding clasp. Price CHF 7,130.–

Ref. Z1301.11.41E10C71E

ATLAS LADY Movement quartz. Functions hours, minutes, date. Case 18K white gold set with diamonds. Diameter: 36 mm. Sapphire crystal glareproofed on both sides. Water-resistant to 3 bar. Dial black lacquered with diamond-set hour-markers. Strap alligator leather with diamond-set buckle. Price CHF 13,720.– Total carat weight: 0.46 cts.

Ref. Z1901.10.30E91A40B

ATLAS COCKTAIL Movement quartz. Functions hours and minutes. Case 18K rose gold set with diamonds. Diameter: 30 mm. Sapphire crystal glareproofed on both sides. Water-resistant to 3 bar. Dial white mother-of-pearl. Strap satin with diamond-set buckle. Price CHF 24,840.– Total carat weight: 0.97 cts.

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Ref. 263-97LE-3C

MARINE DIVER BLUE SEA Movement mechanical self-winding, Calibre UN-26. Power reserve: 42 hours. Functions hours, minutes. Small seconds and large date at 6 hours. Power-reserve indication at 12 o’clock. Case stainless steel specially treated by sophisticated vulcanisation process giving it a blue rubber coating. Diameter 45.80 mm. Unidirectional rotating bezel. Glareproofed sapphire crystal and sapphire case-back. Water-resistant to 200 m. Individually numbered. Dial black. Strap with rubber and ceramic folding clasp. Price CHF 10,400.– Limited edition of 999.

Ref. 266-66B/991

MAXI MARINE CHRONOMETER Movement mechanical self-winding, Calibre UN-26. Chronometer-certified by the COSC. Power reserve: 42 hours. Functions hours, minutes. Small seconds and large date at 6 o’clock. Power-reserve indication at 12 o’clock. Case 18K rose gold with diamond-set bezel. Diameter: 41 mm. Glareproofed sapphire crystal. Water-resistant to 200 m. Dial white mother-of-pearl with diamond-set hour-markers. Strap alligator leather with folding clasp. Price CHF 24,500.– Total carat weight: 0.328 cts.

Ref. 675-01

SONATA STREAMLINE Movement mechanical self-winding, Manufacture Calibre UN-67. Power reserve: 42 hours. Functions hours, minutes, seconds. Large date adjustable in both directions. Second time zone with exclusive instant time-zone change and permanent hometime indication. Alarm with activation indication at 9 o’clock, adjustment at 2 o’clock and countdown at 10 o’clock. Case titanium and 18K rose gold. Diameter: 44 mm. Glareproofed sapphire crystal and sapphire case-back. Water-resistant to 50 m. Dial black and silver-toned. Strap leather with folding clasp. Price CHF 42,800.–

Ref. UR-CC1 AlTiN gold

UR-CC1 BLACK COBRA Movement mechanical self-winding, regulated by a fly brake turbine, Calibre UR 8.02. Power reserve: 39 hours. Functions linear-reading hours and minutes with jumping hours and retrograde minutes. Double digital and linear seconds display. Case AlTiN*-coated 18K white gold. Dimensions: 42.60 x 53.90 mm. Sapphire crystal and titanium case-back. Water-resistant to 30 m. Dial black PVD-coated ARCAP P40. Strap leather. Price CHF 307,800.– *Aluminium, Titanium, Nitride. Limited edition of 25.

Ref. UR-110 ST

UR-110 ST Movement

Functions

Case

Dial Strap Price

mechanical self-winding, regulated by turbines, Calibre UR 9.01. Power reserve: 39 hours. satellite complication with mobile hour modules on planetary gears, minutes. Control Board with day/night and “Oil Change” indications, and a 60-second counter. titanium with AlTiN*-coated steel bezel. Dimensions: 47 x 51 mm. Sapphire crystal. Water-resistant to 30 m. black PVD-coated ARCAP P40. leather. CHF 103,140.–

*Aluminium, Titanium, Nitride.

Ref. UR-210

UR-210 Movement

Functions

Case

Dial Strap Price

mechanical self-winding, regulated by turbines, Calibre UR 7.10. Power reserve: 39 hours. Patented satellite complication with wandering hours and retrograde minutes. Power-reserve indication. Winding efficiency display (patent pending). On the back, automatic winding regulation system. titanium and steel. Dimensions: 43.80 x 53.60 mm. Sapphire crystal. Water-resistant to 30 m. black PVD-coated ARCAP P40. leather. CHF 147,960.–

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Ref. 89000/000R-9655

PATRIMONY TRADITIONNELLE 14-DAY TOURBILLON Movement mechanical hand-wound, Manufacture Calibre 2260, Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark. Power reserve: 14 days. Functions hours, minutes. Small seconds on the tourbillon. Power-reserve indication. Case 18K rose gold 5N. Diameter: 42 mm. Sapphire crystal and case-back. Water-resistant to 3 bar. Dial opaline silver-toned. Strap hand-sewn alligator leather with triple folding clasp. Price CHF 263,000.–

Ref. 49020/000R-9753

OVERSEAS CHRONOGRAPH PERPETUAL CALENDAR Movement mechanical self-winding, Calibre 1136QP. Power reserve: 40 hours. Functions hours, minutes, small seconds. Perpetual calendar indicating the date, day, month, leap year, moon phases. Chronograph with sweep seconds-hand, 30-minute and 12-hour counters. Case 18K rose gold 5N. Diameter: 42 mm. Sapphire crystal. Water-resistant to 15 bar. Dial opaline light grey. Strap hand-sewn alligator leather with triple folding clasp. Price CHF 93,000.–

Ref. 82572/000G-9605

PATRIMONY TRADITIONNELLE Movement mechanical hand-wound, Manufacture Calibre 4400 AS, Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark. Power reserve: 65 hours. Functions hours, minutes, small seconds. Case 18K white gold with diamond-set bezel. Diameter: 38 mm. Sapphire crystal and case-back. Water-resistant to 3 bar. Dial opaline silver-toned with diamond hour-markers. Strap hand-sewn alligator leather. Price CHF 27,000.– Total carat weight: 0.69 cts.

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Ref. 570157.309L

50S PRESIDENTS’ CHRONOGRAPH mechanical self-winding, Vulcain Calibre V-57. Power reserve: 42 hours. Functions hours, minutes, small seconds, date. Single-pusher chronograph with sweep seconds-hand, 30-minute counter. Case steel. Diameter: 42 mm. Cambered glareproofed sapphire crystal and sapphire case-back. Water-resistant to 50 m. Dial sunburst silver-toned. Strap alligator leather. Price CHF 5,970.– Movement

Ref. 160151.301L

50S PRESIDENTS’ HERBIE HANCOCK EDITION LIMITÉE Movement mechanical hand-wound, alarm Cricket Calibre V-16. Power reserve: 42 hours. Functions hours, minutes, seconds, date, alarm. Case steel. Diameter: 42 mm. Cambered glareproofed sapphire crystal and sapphire case-back. Water-resistant to 50 m. Dial sunburst midnight blue. Herbie Hancock signature. Strap alligator leather. Price CHF 5,880.– Limited edition of 250.

Ref. 560556.308L

50S PRESIDENTS’ CLASSIC mechanical self-winding, Vulcain Calibre V-56. Power reserve: 42 hours. Functions hours, minutes, seconds, date. Case 18K rose gold 5N. Diameter: 42 mm. Cambered glareproofed sapphire crystal and sapphire case-back. Water-resistant to 50 m. Dial sunburst anthracite. Strap alligator leather. Price CHF 9,950.– Movement

WATCHES L.A 11 |

Page 123

OBJECT OF TIME ONE-77 · TIME MOVER® for 24 watches (8 of them in the safe) · Integrated BUBEN&ZÖRWEG safe, safety standard VDS I · Free-form chassis with high gloss varnish finish in the Aston Martin colour “Quantum Silver” · Unique, automatic “magic slide” opening and closing system · Luxurious interior in fine Italian nappa leather and carbon inlay work · 2 storage drawers for watches and jewellery · German HiFi system with Bluetooth functionality · Remote control for lighting and the “magic slide” opening and closing system · Latest LED light technology with fading function · Swiss safety lock · Optional humidor with a German electronic humidifying system · Various special chassis colours available as optional extras · Dimensions: 1820 x 845 x 470 mm · Mains Operation · Price: CHF 226,800.– FINE TIMEPIECE Flying minute tourbillon with engraved BUBEN&ZÖRWEG initials · Swiss escapement with screw balance wheel and 11 jewels · 15 day precision movement of German manufacture with constant force and maintaining power · Display for date and power reserve · Exquisite, ruthenium-coated dial · 500 hours of “Excellence Control” ·

Limited edition of 77.

X-007 – FACTS · High-security safe with VDS II (German Security Certification) · Worldwide unique opening mechanism · Patented safe wall construction from RELASTAN® · High-security PAXOS® compact locking system · Connectible to the home alarm system · TIME MOVER® for 21 watches · Front and side drawers for storing jewellery or other valuables · Hand-polished stainless steel applications · State-of-the-art LED lighting with fading technology · Lockable security glass door with high-security lock · Emergency crank for opening the safe in the event of a power failure · Optional 2 or 3 internal drawers · Optional with 8 TIME MOVER® in 2 side-drawers · Finest German craftsmanship · Closed: 1200 x 750 x 615 mm · Open: 2000 x 750 x 615 mm · Weight: 580 kg · Mains Operation · Price: CHF 181,800.–

... & MORE | L.A 11 | Page 125

SIGNATURE ZIRCONIUM SIGNATURE CLOUS DE PARIS STAINLESS STEEL SPECIFICATIONS · Length: 130mm. Width: 42mm. Depth: 13mm. · Weight: 116g to 238g PIONEERING DESIGN High-resolution display with sapphire crystal · Precision-engineered key switches with jewelled bearings · High-fidelity 11 x 15mm loudspeaker with dual sound ports · Exclusive ring tones and alerts played by the London Symphony Orchestra ·

TECHNOLOGY Up to 5.5 hours GSM talk time · Up to 3.0 hours WCDMA talk time · Up to 300 hours standby time · 3G and Quadband GSM coverage worldwide* · Bluetooth/Micro USB/WLAN · PC and Mac synchronisation · Modem support · MMS/SMS · Accurate, auto dual-time clock · 4GB user memory · Worldmate travel application · Web browser ·

EXCLUSIVE SERVICES Vertu Concierge · Vertu Select · Vertu City Brief · Vertu.Me ·

Signature Zirconium / Price: CHF 17,400.– Signature Clous de Paris Stainless Steel / Price: CHF 15,100.– *Some features are location, network and/or service dependent

CONSTELLATION BLACK NEON ORANGE SPECIFICATIONS · Length: 118.2mm. Width: 54.5mm. Depth 12.2mm. · Weight: 164g to 199g PIONEERING DESIGN 3.5” nHD high contrast AMOLED display, protected by Sapphire Crystal · High-fidelity 11 x 15mm loudspeaker · Exclusive ring tones and alerts played by the London Symphony Orchestra ·

TECHNOLOGY Up to 7 hours talk time (GSM)* · Up to 4.5 hours talk time (WCDMA)* · Up to 400/400 (GSM/WCDMA) hours standby time* · Quadband WCDMA and GSM coverage worldwide** · 8 megapixel camera with EDOF and twin LED Heptagon flash · Bluetooth/Micro USB/WLAN** · PC and Mac Synchronisation · Accelerometer/MMS/SMS/Multi Language Dictionary · FM Radio · Accurate, dual-time clock with calendar based availability** · User memory: Fixed 32GB · Twitter and Facebook applications · Full HTML Web browser · Satellite Navigation with pre-installed maps · Quickoffice for viewing and editing Microsoft Word, Excel and PowerPoint files · PDF viewer/Photo viewer with web share · Audio/Video player · Emergency Torchlight ·

EXCLUSIVE SERVICES Vertu Concierge · Vertu Concierge Live · Vertu Club Access · Vertu Select · Vertu City Brief · Vertu.Me ·

Price: CHF 7,600.– *Power management figures based on GSMA-DG09 standards **Some features are location, network and/or service dependent

... & MORE | L.A 11 | Page 127

CREDITS

L.A Magazine

The twice-yearly magazine for clients of Les Ambassadeurs.

Discover on iPad the enriched content of L.A Magazine in

A Swiss magazine published by Les Ambassadeurs with a 80,000 copy run in German, English, French, Italian, Russian and Chinese

French, English, German and Italian. Thanks to the watchfinder, you will be able to compare a broad

Publisher

Les Ambassadeurs AG

range of timepieces brought together

Project director

by Les Ambassadeurs. All you need

Philippe Meyer

to do is select your favourite models

Editorial & production management

(p.meyer@lesambassadeurs.ch)

Opus Magnum Sàrl

and the watchfinder will offer you

(www.opusmagnum.ch)

a chance to appreciate them

Copy editing

Soraia Glarner (sg@opusmagnum.ch)

as never before.

Contributors (by order of appearance)

Joachim Ziegler, Marie de Pimodan-Bugnon David Chokron Véronique Zbinden Timm Delfs Marco Cattaneo Laurence Beauvais Keith Strandberg Gaëlle Sinnassamy-Chaar Nathalie Cobos Vesna Mitrovic Mathilde Binetruy Soraia Glarner

Next An exclusive reflection of the must-have watch and jewellery creations, the next issue of L.A will be published in June 2013. Have it delivered directly to your door by using the form below, or check out the online version at www.lesambassadeurs.ch [ ] Mr

[ ] Mrs

[ ] Miss

Age

[ ] 25-35

[ ] 36-45

[ ] 46-55

[ ] 56-65

[ ] 66 and over

Marital status: Family name:

Address: Postal code: [ ] Switzerland

Lausanne (www.enzed.ch)

Shooting Cheese Studios

Translation Susan Jacquet (English), Lapsus Linguae Sàrl (German), Silvano Daniele (Italian), Lapsus Linguae Sàrl (Russian), Lapsus Linguae Sàrl (Chinese) Proofreading Christiane Lalieu (French), Transcribe (English), Lapsus Linguae Sàrl (German), Gabriella Daniele (Italian), Lapsus Linguae Sàrl (Russian), Lapsus Linguae Sàrl (Chinese)

Date of birth (optional):

First name:

Photographers Mierswa & Kluska Denis Hayoun Illustrator Bruce Emmett Design Nicolas Zentner,

City:

Photolithography

Images 3, Lausanne

[ ] Liechtenstein

Printing

Type of address

[ ] professional

[ ] private

Daneels

E-mail: Professional activity: Watch or jewellery brands owned: I am already a customer of Les Ambassadeurs

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Copyright © 2012 Les Ambassadeurs AG. All rights reserved. All published texts and visuals are subject to copyright. Any reproduction, whether in whole or in part, is strictly forbidden without prior written consent by the respective copyright holders. This magazine was entirely printed using solar energy.

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[ ] other (please specify): Please send to: Les Ambassadeurs – Marketing & Communication – Bahnhofstrasse 64 – 8001 Zurich – fax: +41 44 227 17 27 – magazine@lesambassadeurs.ch

All prices shown may be subject to change. The illustrations have been enlarged for enhanced clarity.