August September Northern Wilds

Aug-Sept 2013 VOL 10, ISSUE 4 For Folks Who Love the North

Grand Marais Renaissance Scenic 61 Eats BWCAW Rookies

FREE

Northern Wilds is also available by subscription.

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NORTHERN WILDS AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2013

Towering Pines Canopy Tour

Towering Pines Canopy Tour at Gunflint Lodge is the most exciting new way to experience the wilderness — get a bird’s-eye view plus a thrilling ride through the treetops! It’s a two-and-a-half hour nature adventure led by two sky guides.

Open daily April 26th to November 11th. $79.00 per person Call 218-388-2296 for reservations.

Breakfast, lunch and dinner available, too.

Gunflint Lodge is 43 miles up the Gunflint Trail from Grand Marais.

Minimum age is 10; maximum weight/person is 240 lbs.

NORTHERN WILDS AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2013

from the editors

FEATURES

Exploring our Creative Side

Grand Marais Renaissance 14 Thunder Bay Turns to the Lake 20 Rookie Family Goes Wild 22 Get Your Kicks on Scenic 61 25

sidered a retreat for artists is attracting young people who are making a go of it with their creative endeavors.

Something similar is occurring in Thunder Bay, where waterfront development and a changing economy are fueling a cultural transition. Breana Roy explores Scenic Highway 61 between Duluth and Two Harbors, where a surprising number of eateries appeal to every taste. And Javier Serna reports on the surge in craft breweries occurring from Duluth to Thunder Bay.

In every issue of Northern Wilds, we do our best to reflect the world around us. We like to think of this place as unique in Great Lakes region—and well beyond—because it is pristine, rugged and wild. There’s something about the nature of this place that provides creative inspiration for everyone from outdoor adventurers to artists. It is only natural the region has become a magnet for creative types.

Best BWCAW Day Trips 28 Local Breweries Blossom 34

In this issue, we explore how the creative community is changing the face of the Northern Wilds. We spend time in Grand Marais, where a town long con-

Fear not, we remain true to our wild nature as we join Eric Chandler and his family on their first canoe trip. For those who want a taste of the wilderness, Bryan Hansel gives us a rundown of some popular Boundary Waters day trips. If you plan to bring home more than memories, Mike Furtman tells how to take the best canoe country photos. Elle Andra-Warner gives us directions to 300-plus-yearold white pine forest just outside Quetico Provincial Park. And Gord Ellis gives us lots of good reasons to go fishing right now.

DEPARTMENTS North Notes 5 Events 8 Events Calendar 12 Through My Lens 26 Canadian Trails 30 The Accidental Gardener 36

Taste of the North 37 Dining Guide 38 Strange Tales 43 Book Reviews 40 Product Reviews 40 Northern Sky 42 Classifieds 42

About our cover: Is there a better place to spend a sunny summer day than Grand Marias? Photographer Paul Sundberg took this photo of his granddaughter enjoying the harbor.

Join us on Facebook

CONTRIBUTORS: Elle Andra-Warner, Eric Chandler, Gord Ellis, Joan Farnam, Michael Furtman, Bryan Hansel, Deane Morrison, Javier Serna Copyright 2013 by Northern Wilds Media, Inc. Published six times per year. Subscription rate is $15 per year or $28 for 2 years. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part requires written permission from the publisher.

Northern Wilds Media, Inc P.O. Box 26 Grand Marais, MN 55604 (218) 387-9475 (phone / fax)

—Shawn Perich and Amber Pratt

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PUBLISHERS: Shawn Perich & Amber Pratt EDITORIAL Shawn Perich, Editor • editor@northernwilds.com Breana Roy, Editorial Assistant • breana@northernwilds.com ADVERTISING Amber Pratt, Advertising Manager, apratt@northernwilds.com Jane Shinner, Sales Representative jane@northernwilds.com GRAPHIC DESIGN Katie Viren • katie@northernwilds.com OFFICE Bev Wolke • billing@northernwildsmedia.com

Finding time to go fishing can be hard at this time of year, because fun events and happenings occur every weekend. You’ll find all of them inside. Whether you are here year-round or just visiting on vacation, turn the page and discover that Northern Wilds is where the fun begins.

Sept. 11, 2013

www.NorthernWilds.com

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NORTHERN WILDS AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2013

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New Bike SPRING GROUSE Trail at Silver Bay Counts A new, 2.3-mile paved segment of the Gitchi-Gami State Trail at Silver Bay is open. From the Rukavina Arena in Silver Bay, the new trail segment runs south across Northshore Mining property and continues to the east end of West Road in Beaver Bay. Continuing south, bicyclists and other trail users can follow the gravel West Road for a half mile to connect with the longest paved section of the trail, the 14.6-mile segment from Beaver Bay to Gooseberry Falls State Park.

The trail provides scenic views and safe travel for bicyclists, in-line skaters, joggers and walkers along Highway 61, paralleling the North Shore of Lake Superior. More than 28 miles of the trail are complete in six segments. The Lutsen Phase 1 segment, to be completed in 2013, will add another 1.1 paved miles to the trail. When complete, the trail will extend 86 miles from Two Harbors to Grand Marais. The paved, non-motorized trail will connect five state parks, several communities, four scientific and natural areas and numerous historic sites with scenic vistas of Lake Superior along the way.

More information about the trail, including a map and virtual tour, can be found online at www.mndnr.gov (http://www.dnr.state.mn.us/state_ trails/gitchigami/index.html). Maps and other information are also available by calling the DNR Information Center at 651-296-6157 or toll-free 888-646-6367 between 8 a.m. and 4:30 p.m. Monday through Friday.

Down

Ruffed grouse drumming counts were down across most of the bird’s range, according to the annual Minnesota DNR survey.

“This decrease was not unexpected because the ruffed grouse population is still in the declining phase of its 10-year cycle,” said Charlotte Roy, Expect to see fewer grouse when you go hunting this fall. | BIGSTOCK DNR grouse biologist. “Drum counts drumming on established routes vival during the spring and summer. peaked most recently in 2009.” throughout the state’s forested re- Drumming did occur later this year Drumming counts dropped from gions. Drumming counts are an indi- because of the late spring, suggest1.1 to 0.9 per stop in the northeast, cator of the ruffed grouse breeding ing that nesting likely occurred later than normal. which is the forest bird’s core range population. in Minnesota. Counts in the northThis year, observers recorded 0.9 “Later nesting would have pushed west declined from 0.9 in 2012 to 0.7 drums per stop statewide. The aver- the hatch out a bit, hopefully bedrums per stop in 2013. Drumming ages during 2011 and 2012 were 1.7 yond the spring rains,” Roy said. counts did not change significantly and 1.0 drums per stop, respectively. “Time will tell if that occurred in the central hardwoods or south- Counts vary from about 0.8 drums and the impact on production.” east, with an average of 0.9 and 0.4 per stop during years of low grouse drums per stop, respectively. abundance to about 1.9 during years For the past 64 years, DNR biologists have monitored ruffed grouse Ruffed grouse populations, which of high abundance. tend to rise and fall on a 10-year The number of birds present during populations. This year, DNR staff and cycle, are surveyed by counting the the fall hunting season also depends cooperators from 14 organizations number of male ruffed grouse heard upon nesting success and chick sur- surveyed 117 routes across the state.

Wolf Center hosts Sig Olson Exhibit A new exhibit highlighting author and environmentalist Sigurd Olson is on display through Oct. 31 at the International Wolf Center in Ely. Among other photos and artifacts, "The Sigurd Olson Legacy: Wilderness, Writing and Wolves Exhibit" features a re-creation of Olson’s famous writing shack.

Sigurd F. Olson was one of America’s most beloved nature writers and most influential conservationists of the 20th century. Best known as the author of The Singing Wilderness and eight other books, Olson also played an

important role in the preservation of a number of national parks, seashores and wilderness areas.

The exhibit also includes eight Francis Lee Jaques pen and ink originals, which were used to illustrate two of Sigurd Olson’s books: The Singing Wilderness and Listening Point. Visitors also see a wolf research timeline for the United States, a map of Olson-influenced wilderness areas, and the story of the Listening Point Foundation, which advances Olson’s legacy of wilderness education and preserves his cabin at Listening Point near Ely.

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NORTHERN WILDS AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2013

Rendezvous Days GRAND PORTAGE

CELEBRATION POW-WOW

RENDEZVOUS DAYS Friday, August 9 - Sunday, August 11 FREE ADMISSION Traditional Pow-Wow Grand Entries on Saturday at 1:00 pm and 7:00 pm and on Sunday at 1:00 pm.

Experience traditional foods, dances, arts and crafts. Enjoy softball, horseshoe tournaments, and a Walk-Run.

Nw_Rendezvous_2013.indd 1

13-07-12 4:40 PM

How Way North of Ordinary Are You?

Make this summer epic in Cook County, Minnesota. A place where you’ll find Lake Superior – the world’s greatest lake, 376 miles of hiking and Minnesota’s highest waterfall. Plus the best access to the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness and legendary arts, culture, music, cuisine and hospitality. Get started now. Take the Way North of Ordinary Quiz and enter to win a getaway at VisitCookCounty.com/Quiz.

LUTSEN • TOFTE • SCHROEDER

|

GRAND MARAIS

|

GUNFLINT TRAIL

|

GRAND PORTAGE

NORTHERN WILDS AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2013

WOLVES DECLINE, Biologists Unconcerned The gray wolf population remains firmly established on Minnesota’s landscape, but a comprehensive population survey conducted by the DNR found fewer wolves than were counted five years ago. The new survey results estimate that within Minnesota’s wolf range there were 438 packs and 2,211 wolves last winter–down 710 wolves from the survey five years ago. The DNR intends to hold another wolf hunting and trapping season in fall and winter 2013.

Although lower than the 2008 wolf population survey estimate of 2,921 wolves, the population exceeds the state’s minimum goal of at least 1,600 wolves and is above the federal recovery goal range of 1,251 to 1,400 animals. Minnesota’s wolf range generally covers the state’s forested region.

“Results from the 2013 wolf survey continue to demonstrate that Minnesota’s wolf population is fully recovered from its once threatened status and the population is responding naturally to the availability of deer, wolves’ primary food source,” said Dan Stark, DNR large carnivore specialist.

One of the primary factors influencing the wolf population estimate was a 13 percent increase in average wolf pack territory size to about 62 square miles. The increase in territory size likely is caused by fewer deer per square mile, which has declined 25 percent since 2008 in the forested region of Minnesota.

A 12 percent decrease in the average number of wolves per pack from 4.9 to 4.3 also contributed to the lower population estimate. John Erb, DNR research biologist, said the reduction in average pack size likely is a combination of reduced prey and the harvest of wolves in the two months immediately preceding the mid-winter wolf pack counts.

Survey data was collected in mid-winter before pups were born. The birth of pups significantly boosts the wolf population each spring. With an estimated 438 packs in Minnesota and an average litter size of six, as many as 2,600 wolves were added to the population when pups were born this spring.

“This is part of the annual population cycle for wolves in which many pups are born each spring and then the population declines through the rest

Get Beach Data Online

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The ParkPointBeach.org website offers updates on the popular Duluth beach, weather, and water conditions 24/7 from June through October.

Useful information for recreationists includes water temperature, wave height, UV index, rip current risk, weather, and bacteria information for the Lake Superior beaches along Park Point, assembled from the National Weather Service and other organizations. Potential beachgoers can also check on the water and wave conditions at Park Point Beach through Twitter (@ParkPointBeach) and Facebook, where real-time alerts to dangerous conditions are posted. The site is a service of Minnesota Sea Grant and many partners.

Pukaskwa National Park hosts artists Minnesota’s wolf population has declined somewhat since 2008, but the species expanded its range in the state. | BIGSTOCK

of the year through various sources of mortality until the next whelping season the following spring,” Erb said.

Compared to previous years, wolf populations had added mortality as a result of the 2012 wolf hunting and trapping season and higher than normal livestock depredation control. Wolves are widely distributed throughout their range and total wolf range has expanded in several areas along the southern and western boundaries since the last survey in 2008. The DNR will continue to monitor and regulate the take of wolves, to ensure that human-caused mortality will not exceed safe levels for long-term population sustainability.

The DNR’s fall and winter 2013 wolf season will be based on the framework established for the 2012 season.

Visitors to Pukaskwa National Park can meet artists from across Ontario as part of an Art in the Park presentation. Artists will be on hand at the Hattie Cove Visitor Centre from Friday to Tuesday each week through Sept. 3.

Original works will be displayed.

Each artist will be sharing expertise with on-site workshops, including: transforming an object into an ornament; drawing caricatures; basket weaving; building a fairy house; photography sessions; and painting wild watercolours. Two-hour workshops take place Saturdays at 1 p.m. in the visitor centre. Workshops are free with park entry, and unless it’s a camera, all materials are supplied. To see artist profiles, please visit Pukaskwa’s website at parkscanada.gc.ca/ pukaskwa.

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NORTHERN WILDS AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2013

Amethyst mine

PAnorAmA

16th Annual Two Harbors Kayak Festival

Open Year Round Monday-Saturday

Aug. 2-4

www.amethystmine.com | 400 Victoria Ave E, Thunder Bay ON Located 30 miles E of Thunder Bay off Hwy 11-17 on East Loon Rd

Also visit our Amethyst Gift Centre! · Souvenirs · Jewelry · More!

A trapper education class is offered at the Minnesota Forest Zone Trappers Convention Aug. 9-11. | SUBMITTED PHOTO

Grand Marais Fisherman’s Picnic

Sawmill TourS Hedstrom Lumber Co. will be offering tours of the Sawmill and Planing Mill

Beginning June 26

Tour TimeS:

Tues. 12:30-2 pm | Fri. 10-11:30 am Special group tours available upon request.

Limited group size per tour.

Pre-registration is required.

Call 387-2995 ext. 11

Tours may be canceled without notice — RSVP required!

HedSTrom lumber Company

218-387-2995 · 1504 Gunflint Trail, Grand marais, mn

Aug. 1-4

The annual Grand Marais Fisherman’s Picnic Festival is packed full with fun for the whole family. Activities include vendors, Crazy Day sales, numerous contests, live music, street dances, kids’ rides, bingo, a parade and fireworks. There’s also Hoopin’ in the Harbor, tennis and softball tournaments, a trail run and the Big Fish contest at Buck's Hardware. Check out the Library Friends Annual Used Book Sale at the Community Center, and don’t forget to try your luck winning the grand prize of $10,000 by buying a $5 raffle ticket from the Lions Club. Visit www.grandmaraislionsclub. com for more info on events.

AHNISNABAE ART GALLERY

offers a spectacular collection of Canadian Native Fine Arts and Crafts, Assorted Prints, Sculptures, Masks, T-shirts, Music, & Jewelry. • Leatherwork: Moccasins, Gauntlets, etc. Artcards • Books

We invite you to visit us in the gallery or browse through our online shop − www.ahnisnabae-art.com.

7-1500 James St. S., Mount McKay Place, Thunder Bay, Ontario CANADA

1-807-577-2656 • Hours: Tues-Fri 11 am - 7 pm • Sat Noon - 4 pm

For more information please email us at: louisethomas@ahnisnabae-art.com

Spend the day on the water at the 16th Annual Two Harbors Kayak Festival. This year offers new races: the Ellen Anderson 10-mile race and the Junior 2-mile In-the-Bay race. Other races include the 18-mile Great River Energy Marathon and Betty’s Pies 5-mile race. The festival will also include kayak demos, classes, a treasure hunt, a rock climbing wall, live music, food and more. For more info or to register for races, visit www.kayakfestival.org.

Grand Portage Rendezvous Days and Powwow Aug. 9-11

Step back in time at the annual Grand Portage Rendezvous Days and Powwow. Re-enactors from across the country and Canada come together to camp and provide demonstrations, music, dancing and hands-on workshops. Rendezvous Days is sponsored by the Grand Portage Band of Lake Superior Chippewa. For more info, visit www.nps. gov/grpo.

NORTHERN WILDS AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2013

Bayfront Blues Festival Aug. 9-11

Jam to music all weekend with the 25th annual Bayfront Blues Festival in Duluth. Performers include Eddy “The Chief” Clearwater, Robert Cray Band, Eddie Shaw, Pat Hayes, Dana Fuchs and many more. All tickets are sold as general admission. Visit www. bayfrontblues.com for more info.

Trappers Meet In Embarrass Aug. 9-11

The Paju Mountain Run in Red Rock gives runners a workout. | SUBMITTED PHOTO

The Minnesota Forest Zone Trappers Association is holding its third annual convention and gun show at the Embarrass Area Fairgrounds Aug. 9-11. The family-friendly event includes a full-day trapper’s education course, as well as demonstrations of trapping and skinning techniques. The convention is a place where trappers and nontrappers alike are going to learn something, which is the group’s intent. A free, full-day trapper education class is scheduled for Saturday. Also at the convention will be a taxidermy display of northern Minnesota furbearers and other wildlife, including a lynx/bobcat hybrid, a Minnesota lynx and a wolverine. Booths, displays and the gun show are held in Timber Hall at the fairgrounds.

Magic Show Family Comedy Saturday, Aug. 3rd Grand Marais Library 11:15 am and 2:00 pm

Aug 1-4

2013

Activity Button Required

Sunday, Aug. 4th Harbor Park Stage 2:15 pm After Parade

Sponsored by: G.M. Lions Club, G.M. Library, G.M. State Bank, N.S. Federal Credit Union

Live from the Rock Folk Festival and Paju Mountain Run Aug. 9-11

Enjoy over 20 live performances at the annual Live from the Rock Folk Festival in Red Rock, Ontario, August 9 through 11. The lineup includes Andrew Queen, JD Edwards Band, The Marigolds, Suzy Wilde, Billy Manzik, Bill Bourne and many others. Tickets can be bought at the gate or in advance for a reduced price. Day passes and weekend passes are available. For more info, visit www.livefromtherockfolkfestival.com. Red Rock’s 31st annual Paju Mountain Run will be held Aug. 10 and offer competitive and noncompetitive races, with several age divisions. The 11.2K race climbs 715 feet from the town to the top of Paju Mountain. Awards will be given and a luncheon

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NORTHERN WILDS AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2013

will be held afterwards at the Red Rock Legion at noon. Registration must be done by Aug. 7. For more info or to register online, visit www.redrocktownship.com.

Ely Fall Harvest Moon Festival

6th Annual Radio Waves Music Festival

The Fall Harvest Moon Festival in Ely includes fun for the whole family, and admission is free.

This year’s festival will include more than 125 art and craft exhibitors, an all-American lumberjack show, demonstrations on pottery making, weaving, spinning, snowshoe-making, basketry, leather working and more. Food and entertainment will be provided all weekend. The festival will take place at Whiteside Park. Visit www.ely.org for more info.

Sept. 6-8

This year’s annual Radio Waves Music Festival will provide music and fun for all ages. Located at Sweetheart’s Bluff in the Grand Marais Recreation Area, there will be on-site food vendors, children’s activities such as face painting, and live music throughout the day. This year’s lineup includes The Carpenter Ants; Pushing Chain; Sky Blue Trio with Orange Girl; Yvonne Mills; The Sivertones; Earth, Wind and Todd; Trails End Band, and many more. For more info, visit www.wtip.org.

Sept. 6-8

Sawtooth Mountain Bike Challenge Sept. 8

Challenge your ability with the Sawtooth Mountain Bike Race, offering citizen, sport and expert levels. Begin the race in downtown Grand Marais near Artist’s Point and wind your way up

The WTIP Radio Waves Music Festival features local musicians and is held at the city campground in Grand Marais. | WTIP

Pincushion Mountain using snowmobile and ski trails. Enjoy the scenic view of Lake Superior while conquering rugged terrain. Race begins at 10 a.m. in front of Superior North Outdoor Center. Preregister prior to Aug. 31 for a discount. Late registration is from 8-9 a.m. race day. For more info, visit www.sawtoothchallenge.org.

Yarn Harbor

is a full service yarn shop supplying the community with beautiful yarns, books, notions & classes.

Check out our Monthy Summer Beer Tasting Nights See our website for details.

Check out our website and blog for classes & additional events website: www.yarnharborduluth.com Find us on Facebook! blog: yarnharbor.wordpress.com

103 Mount Royal Shopping Circle Duluth, MN 55803 • 218-724-6432 Sun 12-5 • Mon 12-8 • Tues & Wed 10-5 Thurs 10-7 • Fri & Sat 10-5

ate ti-St Mul rmits Pe Certified NRA, MN BCA Instructors & Utah BCI Concealed Firearms Instructors Nearly 50 years combined law enforcement firearms training experience Improve your combat shooting techniques Class: Silver Bay, September 7th. Call to register.

We’ll come to you! Call for details.

Three hour Minnesota Renewal Course Only, $75.

Weekdays now available. Call for details.

Training accaepforted

by Florid Florida CCW.

Utah Concealed Firearm permits now being offered.

These permits are valid in 33 states.

You do not need to be a resident of Utah to apply.

Steven Holt, Ret., Duluth Police Dept.

218-349-5740 (Duluth) Wes Plath, Ret., Miami-Dade Police 218-365-5747 (Ely)

NORTHERN WILDS AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2013

11

Unplugged XII: The Northern Harvest Sept. 12-15

North House Folk School in Grand Marais is bringing back Mountain Stage for the third year in a row, including three nights and three concerts.

This year’s performers include Tom Paxton, Lori McKenna, Dead Man Winter, The Pines, Matraca Berg, Jonathan Brown and many more. Thursday and Friday nights will be with NPR’s radio show Mountain Stage, with Larry Groce. Saturday will feature the classic Unplugged performances featuring inspiring singers and songwriters. For more info, visit www.northhouse.org.

Northshore Inline Marathon Sept. 14

Compete in the 18th annual Northshore Inline Skating Marathon in Duluth on Saturday Sept. 14 at 9:30 a.m. Follow the same scenic route followed

Mountain Stage returns to Grand Marais for two shows Sept. 12-13. | NORTH HOUSE

by Grandma’s Marathon runners for the past 30 years while in the company of more than 3,000 other skaters. This is the largest inline marathon

Minnesota Forest Zone Trappers Association

Sawtooth aviation LLC

Flightseeing Aerial Tours view Lake Superior and the BwCaw from the air!

Gun show New guns, used guns, ammo, & a variety of supplies

MFZTA Gun Raffles Tickets available for Sept. 18th drawing

$1.00/ticket Canoe Raffle $10.00/ticket

Fur Grading Displays Tanned Fur Products Trapping Supplies

Flights available year-round from Grand Marais airport. Fall colors, moose sighting, special requests. Contact 218-370-0373 or 218-387-3024 for info.

www.SawtoothAviation.com

in North America and offers different categories of races. Visit www.northshoreinline.com.

New Traps & Snares, Used Traps, Wood Wolf Stretchers Lynx Zone Trap Sets, Lures, Scents, Baits

Tailgaters - Outside Woodburning Demo Arts & Crafts

3rd Annual Trappers Convention & Gun Show

Sand Creek Firearm Training Classes:

Friday - Sunday, August 9 - 11

Fur-Bearer Display

Doors open: Friday at Noon, Sat & Sun at 9 a.m.

Timber Hall Embarrass Area Fairgrounds Embarass, MN

Admission: $3.00 adults. Children 15 & under, free with paid adult.

Camping available with electric for RVs, Trailers, Tents.

Education

Trapper’s Education Course

(youth & adult)

Permit-to-Carry classes–MN, FL, UT. (218-) 969-3425 for info or to register

Full-body mounts of MN species: Cougar, Timber Wolf, Fox, Bobcat, Fisher, Marten, Coyote, Otter, Beaver, etc.

Demos Trap Setting, Snaring, Skinning Call (218) 969-3425 for booth, table, tailgater info. www. mnforesttrappers.com

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NORTHERN WILDS AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2013

CALENDAR

AUG. 9-11

Live from the Rock

Red Rock, ON www.redrocktownship.com

25th Annual Bayfront Blues Festival

Duluth, www.bayfrontblues.com

End of the Road Rendezvous Ely, www.ely.org

AUG. 10, SATURDAY

31st Annual Paju Mountain Run

Red Rock, ON www.redrocktownship.com

The Bay Front Blues Festival in Duluth typically draws large crowds. | SUBMITTED PHOTO

JUNE 14-SEPT. 8

Telling Stories on Canvas: Norval Morriisseau: Works on Paper Thunder Bay Art Gallery, ON www.theag.ca

JUNE 27-SEPT. 3

Art in the Park

Pukaskwa National Park Heron Bay, ON www.parkscanada.gc.ca/pukaskwa

JULY 27-AUG. 3

Big Fish Contest

Fisherman’s Picnic, Grand Marais www.buckshardware.net

JULY 31-AUG. 4

Fisherman’s Picnic Tennis Tournament

Tennis Courts, Grand Marais www.cookcountytennis.org

AUG. 1, THURSDAY

Geocaching 101

Soudan Underground Mine State Park, 1 p.m., www.ely.org

AUG. 1-4

Fisherman’s Picnic Grand Marais www.grandmarais.com

AUG. 2, FRIDAY

Batty about Bats

Soudan Underground Mine State Park, 7:30 p.m., www.ely.org

AUG. 2-4

16th Annual Kayak Festival Two Harbors, www.kayakfestival.org

AUG. 2-5

Christmas in July Celebration

KOA Kampgrounds, Shuniah, ON www.thunderbaykoa.com

AUG. 3, SATURDAY

River Canoe Trip: A Scientific Exploration of Water Quality Lake Vermillion State Park 8 a.m., www.ely.org

AUG. 7, WEDNESDAY

Summer Loon Report & Field Naturalists Slide Show Vermillion Community College Ely, 7 p.m., www.ely.org

AUG. 8, THURSDAY

Batty about Bats

Soudan Underground Mine State Park, 7 p.m., www.ely.org

AUG. 8-11

Rendezvous Days and Powwow

Grand Portage www.grandportage.com

AUG. 18, SUNDAY

Riverfest 2013

AUG. 21, WEDNESDAY

Unplugged XII: The Northern Harvest

Night Sky of the Northwoods

Soudan Underground Mine State Park, 8:30 p.m., www.ely.org

AUG. 17, SATURDAY

John Schroeder Day Community Event

Cross River Heritage Center Schroeder, 10 a.m. www.crossriverheritage.org

GGTA Annual North Shore Bike Ride Gooseberry Falls State Park www.ggta.org

SEPT. 14, SATURDAY

18th Annual Northshore Inline Marathon

AUG. 23-25

Duluth, www.northshoreinline.com

Embarrass Region Fair

AUG. 13, TUESDAY AUG. 14, WEDNESDAY

Grand Marais www.northhouse.org

Marina Park, Thunder Bay, ON 6 p.m., www.thunderbay.ca

Civil War and the 1st Minnesota

Ely, www.ely.org

SEPT. 12-15

Superior Youth Festival 2013

Shuffleboard Tournament

Loony Day

Kaministiquia River Heritage Park Thunder Bay, ON, 12 p.m.

807-625-2487

Lake Vermillion State Park 8 a.m., www.ely.org

Embarrass Timber Hall www.ely.org

KOA Kampground, Shuniah, ON www.thunderbaykoa.com

SEPT. 8, SATURDAY

River Canoe Trip: A Scientific Exploration of Water Quality

SEPT. 20-22

AUG. 24, SATURDAY

Duluth, www.hawkridge.org

SEPT. 21, SATURDAY

History of Gesicks and White Sky in Lutsen

Johnson Heritage Post Art Gallery Grand Marais, 4 p.m. www.cookcountyhistory.org

Johnson Heritage Post Grand Marais, 4 p.m. www.cookcountyhistory.org

Driving Range Challenge & BBQ

Windup Potluck with Kamping Family & Friends

KOA Kampground, Shuniah, ON www.thunderbaykoa.com

KOA Kampground, Shuniah, ON www.thunderbaykoa.com

AUG. 30-SEPT. 2

Labor Day Weekend Celebration

SEPT. 26, THURSDAY

Wine & Beer Tasting Gala

KOA Kampground, Shuniah, ON www.thunderbaykoa.com

Cross River Heritage Center Schroeder, 7 p.m. www.crossriverheritage.org

SEPT. 6-8

6th Annual Radio Waves Music Festival

SEPT. 29, SUNDAY

Grand Marais, www.wtip.org

Fall Harvest Moon Festival Whiteside Park, Ely, www.ely.org

Hawk Weekend Festival

18th Annual North Shore Healthcare Golf Scramble

Superior National Golf Course, Lutsen www.northshorehealthcarefoundation.org

For more calendar listings, log on to: www.NorthernWilds.com

Check out our Upcoming Events!

ReseRvations 800-562-4162 office HouRs 9am - 9pm

Aug 2-5 / Christmas in July Aug 10 / Shuffleboard Tournament Aug 17 / Chili Cook-Off, White Elephant Table, Golf Cart & Bicycle Parade Aug 24 / Driving Range Challenge, BBQ Aug 30 - Sept 2 / Labor Day Weekend Halloween Sept 21 / Windup Potluck w/ Kamping Family & Friends

NORTHERN WILDS AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2013

CALENDAR TUESDAYS

Loons

Forest Fire! Friend or Foe?

Eagle Ridge Resort, Lutsen 7:30 p.m. through Aug. 21 www.eagleridgeresort.com

Becoming a Boundary Waters Family

Nature of Oberg Mountain

Lutsen Resort 7:30 p.m. through Aug. 20 www.lutsenresort.com

Chik-Wauk Museum & Nature Center Gunflint Trail 3 p.m. through Aug. 20 www.chikwauk.com

Minnesota Wild!

Grand Marais Recreation Area 7:30 p.m. through Aug. 20

WEDNESDAYS

Stories with Harriet and Bill

Chik-Wauk Museum & Nature Center, Gunflint Trail 11 a.m. through Aug. 28 www.chikwauk.com

Good Morning Birds!

Cascade Lodge, Lutsen 10 a.m. through Aug. 21 www.cascadelodgemn.com

North Shore Meteors?

Bluefin Bay Resort, Tofte 7:30 p.m. through Aug. 21 www.bluefinbay.com

THURSDAYS

Oberg Mountain Trailhead Tofte, 10:30 a.m. through Aug. 22 www.cookcountymnevents.com

Explore the Shore

East Bay Suites - Meet in lobby Grand Marais 10 a.m. through Aug. 22

Minnesota Moose

Lutsen Resort 7:30 p.m. through Aug. 22 www.lutsenresort.com

Voyageur Life

Caribou Highlands, Lutsen 7:30 p.m. through Aug. 22 www.caribouhighlands.com

FRIDAYS

Make a Dreamcatcher

Eagle Ridge Resort Lutsen, 10:30 a.m. through Aug. 23 www.eagleridgeresort.com

Bats in the Belfry

Chateau LeVeaux Tofte, 7:30 p.m. through Aug. 23 www.chateauleveaux.com

ater Fair Winds and Fresh W

Leave it to Beavers

Bluefin Bay Resort Tofte, 7:30 p.m. through Aug. 23 www.bluefinbay.com

SATURDAYS

Cook County Farm & Craft Market Senior Center Parking Lot Grand Marais 9 a.m. through Oct. 18 woodcarver@boreal.org

Wildflower Hike

Caribou Highlands, Lutsen 10 a.m. through Aug. 24 www.caribouhighlands.com

Minnesota Wild!

Sawbill Campground Tofte, 7:30 p.m. through Aug. 24 www.sawbill.com

Wolves! A Howl in the Night Cascade Lodge Lutsen, 7:30 p.m. through Aug. 24 www.cascadelodgemn.com

Science Saturdays

Lake Vermillion and Soudan Underground Mine State Park Soudan, 218-753-2245

are Calling.

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SUNDAYS

Nature Walks & Talks

Chik-Wauk Museum & Nature Center, Gunflint Trail 2 p.m. through Aug. 25 www.chikwauk.com

13

Rare Saganaga Lake Cabin for Sale. $279,900.

End of Gunflint Trail at 82 Sag. Lake Trail. For pictures, brochure, or showing call 218-388-0527 or 928-846-5718.

New built in 2008. Cabin is 24' x 24' (approx. 15' from dock). 1 bedroom, 1 bath main level. Loft bedroom. Has Queen bed, 2 single beds and 1/2 bath. Custom Hickory cabinets. Easy in, easy out crestline windows. Screen porch 24' x 10' overlooking bay. Electric baseboard heat and gas fireplace.

Bunkhouse 20' x 14' with newer cedar lap siding and Timberline shingle roof. Price includes most all furnishings.

Portages End Chair Massage

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Available Fri., Sat., and Sun., at the end of

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14

NORTHERN WILDS AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2013

Grand Marais Renaissance A New Generation Makes A Creative Start

From the rooftops to the streets, Grand Marais marches to a creative beat that is drawing young people to the community. | STEPHAN HOGLUND

NORTHERN WILDS AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2013

15

By Shawn Perich Walk through Grand Marais on a soft summer evening, and you feel it. Maybe it’s the sound of live music inviting you to enter an eatery or the artwork in a shop window that you stop to savor.

Whatever it is, it’s everywhere.

By the end of your walk, you’ll know something is happening here. There’s a harborside school devoted to northern arts and crafts, a year-round art colony, several eclectic galleries displaying local art, more good restaurants than you can sample in a weekend, a playhouse, and a brand-new co-op as large and busy as a mainstream grocery store, not to mention bookstores, gift shops, outdoor stores and boutiques—nearly all displaying selections of locally made products. No doubt you’ll conclude Grand Marais is super-hip.

Statistics, believe it or not, bear this out. The USDA has a Creative Class index for counties. Cook County, where Grand Marais is located, has the highest Bohemian share (artists and artisans) of any Minnesota county and highest overall creative class share of any rural county in the state. More importantly, a new generation of young creative individuals is discovering this tiny town beside the Big Lake.

Grand Marais has long attracted artists, drawn to Lake Superior and the ruggedly scenic landscape, says Amy Demmer, executive director of the Grand Marais Art Colony. The Colony was founded in 1947 by acclaimed artist Birney Quick, a faculty member at the Minneapolis School of Art (now the Minneapolis College of Art and Design.) Although Quick died in 1981, the Art Colony continued growing and now has a year-round staff and professional studio space.

The Art Colony offers a mentorship program for local high school students, which for some has proven to be a launch-pad for a creative career. Kjersti Vick, the Colony’s events and communications coordinator, was one of those students and is someone who decided to make the North Shore her home.

“I live here because I appreciate the

ABOVE: North house executive director Greg Wright says Cook County is the “fertile soil” that allows creative enterprise to grow. | NORTH HOUSE RIGHT: Local girl Kelly Schoenfelder decided to return to Grand Marais so she could work in her chosen field of radio journalism. | JOAN FARNAM

outdoors and artistic community,” she says.

perform has allowed a thriving local music scene to develop as well.

High housing costs and limited job opportunities can make it difficult for young people to stay here. Vick works a second part-time job to make ends meet. But enough 20-somethings are giving it a go that they are able to create their own scene. Vick and her boyfriend recently threw a mural-painting party to celebrate their birthdays, which are a few days apart. About 40 people showed up. She likes that there are constant artistic events and happenings. And then there’s the nightlife, which she describes as “pretty good.”

A series of September events celebrates the music scene. Radio Waves, sponsored by the community radio station WTIP, features numerous local bands and musicians. Unplugged, held at the North House Folk School, draws nationally recognized songwriters and musicians. The Grand Marais vibe has even attracted National Public Radio’s Mountain Stage to the North House, where it will return this September for the third consecutive year.

“The most amazing music comes here,” she says. “You can always find something going on.”

Throughout the year, many venues offer live music, ranging from dinner accompaniment to late-night jams.

Topnotch regional and even national acts are sometimes booked for weekend gigs, but the wealth of opportunities to

Mountain Stage/Unplugged is one of several popular annual events held at North House, but executive director Greg Wright is fond of saying that while the folk school can throw a great party, such celebrations are not their mission.

Instead, the school strives to provide instruction on a broad range of traditional northern arts and crafts. In the past decade, North House has shown steady growth, attracting thousands of

students and instructors from near and far. Wright credits that growth to the community.

“I always think Cook County is the soil from which North House emerged,” he says. “You need fertile soil in order to grow.”

It isn’t surprising that students who travel to North House very often fall in love with Grand Marais and return.

What is surprising is that nearly all of the school’s college interns decide to make Grand Marais their home. And they are able to find work within the creative community. Unlike many small towns, Grand Marais offers employment opportunities for young people.

Kelly Schoenfelder, program director at WTIP Radio, is a 20-something who has found work in her chosen field of radio journalism. A local girl, she interned at WTIP while in college and returned to Grand Marais after she graduated to

GRAND MARAIS continued on page 19 »

NORTHERN WILDS AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2013

SATURDAYS • 11 AM The Muffin Man Stories for young children MOST SATURDAYS • 5 PM Writer’s Salon, various authors 4th WEDNESDAY • 6:30 PM Women’s Book Group Call for title, read the book, and join the discussion.

Aug 24th • 5 PM Salon with William Kent Krueger — latest Cork O’Conner mystery Tamarack County

EVENTS

SUMMER

16

Joyful Treasures for the Spirit and Home Complete Garden Center

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Fairy Gardens

Roving & Supplies for Felting & Spinning Knitting & Felting Classes

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NORTHERN WILDS AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2013

Sydney’s

Blue Water Cafe “The Meeting Place in Grand Marais”

It’s tIme to go to Blue Water and eat

Breakfast • lunCh • Dinner ChilDren’s Menus • “Broasted Chicken” • Dine in or Take Out • Open Daily • Fish Fry on Fridays

Individual, groups and family dining.

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NORTHERN WILDS AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2013

19

GRAND MARAIS » continued from page 19

work there.

Naniboujou Lodge and Restaurant

Breakfast (7:30-10:30) Lunch (11:30-4) Dinner (5:30-8:30) Afternoon Tea (3-5) Located on Highway 61 just 15 miles east of Grand Marais

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“I grew up here, so sometimes I feel like leaving,” she says.

“But I love my job, and I work with cool people. At my age, that kind of employment is hard to find.”

Schoenfelder believes opportunities to learn the ropes of her profession and work her way up the ladder are better in Grand Marais than in a big city. She can list off other 20-somethings who are choosing to make their creative start in Grand Marais with work ranging from film-making to clothing design “For our generation, the traditional career path no longer works, so we need to pick our own path” she says. “Here, I see my friends have the opportunity to do the things they love and make money doing them.”

One place where opportunity exists is at The Garage, a local creative incubator where up-andcoming local artists and crafters can sell their wares.

Stefanie Mitchell, a 20-something staffer there, recently redesigned the clothing portion of the business, known as Threads. A designer, Mitchell transformed Threads into a shop featuring locally made clothing.

“People seem really excited about what we are doing,” Mitchell says. “They like that we’re doing something fresh and different.”

Mitchell, who moved to Grand Marais in 2010, says she’s watched the community’s hip vibe evolve even in the relatively short time she’s lived here. Grand Marais has become a magnet for talented young people. North House program director, Jessa Frost, who moved to Cook County with her musician husband seven years ago, says it isn’t easy to become established in such a remote place.

ABOVE: Stefanie Mitchell moved to Grand Marais in 2010. She’s excited to live in a place where she has the opportunity to create and sell her designs. She is holding a dress by local dressmaker Corrie Steckelberg.

LEFT: Kjersti Vick (left) and Amy Demmer enjoy working at the venerable Grand Marais Art Colony, a cornerstone of the creative community. | JOAN FARNAM

“Since I’ve moved here, I’ve seen people come and go,” she says. “But we’re at a point where there is a critical mass of young people here, which means you can work, you can date and you can make friends.”

That doesn’t mean living on the North Shore is easy. High real estate prices make home-buying challenging. Due to the seasonal nature of the tourism industry, young people may need to work two or three jobs to get by. If you moved from somewhere else, family and friends are far away. Still, young people are making it happen. Perhaps the North House’s Wright, who with his wife Jeanneis raising a daughter in Grand Marais, sums it up the best.

“What makes a community strong? It’s when it becomes a place that people want to call home,” Wright says. “This has nothing to do with being hip. Really, it’s about economic development. If you want good things to happen, then load the creative furnace.

Good things need other good things to resonate.”

20

NORTHERN WILDS AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2013

ThunderBay Turns to the Lake

By Shawn Perich

An ambitious waterfront development project is transforming once-industrial Thunder “We’re seeing young entrepreneurs now have Bay into the cultural center of northwestern the confidence to start businesses here, which Ontario. The project has become a catalyst for is something we haven’t seen in a long time.” downtown revitalization. The opening of sev- says Pepe. eral acclaimed new restaurants within walking Growth in the health, education, science and distance of the water has led to an unplanned mining sectors has led to an in-migration of creation of a culinary district. A growing art and professionals, as well. music scene, adventurA company from ous outdoor recreation India that purchased opportunities and new “Thunder Bay has this a shuttered northern capital investments in Ontario paper mill the economy are turnbuzz now,” says Pepe. has been moving exing the city into a place to the city. where people want to And that’s helping attract ecutives They are surprised be—including young to discover they’ve people. new investors and new moved to a place with “For the past 20 a long tradition of people to the city.” years or more, young embracing multiculpeople have moved turalism. away to the big In May and June this year, there were 618 city,’ says Paul Pepe, the city’s tourism housing starts in Thunder Bay. Wherever you director. “Now they want to stay here.” go in the city, you can see new construction Recently, he spent several days with a young projects or the spires of cranes on the skyline.

Toronto photographer who was in Thunder In addition to giving the timeworn town a welBay on assignment. He contacted Pepe after come facelift, the new construction is helping returning home, looking for a local real estate redefine the city as a place to be. The flagship

Jeff Clara

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project is the waterfront development of a hotel and condominiums.

“Thunder Bay has this buzz now,” says Pepe. And that’s helping attract new investors and new people to the city.”

Learning.... Naturally Inspired

A new breed of tourist is arriving, too, from motorcyclists making a “bucket list” trek around Lake Superior, to people from the Prairie Provinces who are drawn to Lake Superior’s blue water. Although they are not necessarily tourists, the city also draws people from throughout northwestern Ontario who come for shopping, health care and a taste of city life. No doubt many of them will visit the newly opened Target store, one of Canada’s first. The store opened is an existing retail space following a $10 million renovation of the property.

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NORTHERN WILDS AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2013

Rookie Family Goes Wild

By Eric Chandler I stood at the edge of the cliff with my kids.

My wife asked, “How deep is it?”

“It’s plenty deep, darlin’.”

I correctly answered the barrage of safety questions about our imminent jumps. Then, just down the shore, I heard Shelley scrambling up through the rocks and trees.

“What are you doing?” I asked.

“I’m going, too!” she announced.

Now, that’s the way to celebrate our 16th wedding anniversary. Shelley swam more in those four days than in the previous four years. I thought some Boundary Waters space aliens abducted her and replaced her with a replica that swims.

Last summer, after 10 years in Duluth, we made our first family Boundary Waters canoe trip. Several people recommended Alton Lake as an easy trip for kids. One short portage to get to a nice lake. Base camp for some day trips to the nearby lakes. Perfect.

First you have to get a permit. We managed to get our desired entry point at Sawbill Lake. You need a permit for any overnight trip from May to September. Plan ahead.

The Chandler family sets off on their maiden BWCAW voyage. | ERIC CHANDLER

Then, we needed some help. First, we boarded our dog in a kennel. We rookies don’t need a mentally challenged mongrel capsizing our boat. Then we rented

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a canoe from Sawbill Outfitters. (www. sawbill.com) We rented an 18.5 foot Kevlar Minnesota II to ferry us to our base camp. Even that was loaded to the gunwales. There’s no way our 16-footer from home would’ve worked. And, I let the good people at Sawbill make up a food pack for us. My goal was to learn and mimic it myself in the future. It was slick to show up and find four days of food neatly bundled into one pack.

We got to Sawbill mid-day on the first day, got the food pack and canoe, and launched. The hiking backpacks we had were awkward in the canoe. I finally understood why Duluth Pack-style bags are shaped the way they are. The canoe had three seats and my daughter sat on a pack chair balanced on a backpack.

The weather was mild with no chop. A good thing, because we were a little top heavy.

I scoped out campsites online. One faced the setting sun on some slabs of rock. After we successfully portaged from Sawbill to Alton, the sweet spot was occupied, of course. Plan B was a wonderful flat campsite on a point directly across from the portage on Alton’s western shoreline. We set up base camp.

There was a great place for a tent, but it was right under a big dead tree. So I found a safer spot. Note: Don’t put tree roots under your wife’s sleeping bag, no matter how safe it is.

Next on her least favorite list was the latrine. The privy seemed to be the only spot with mosquitoes. The ladies on the

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NORTHERN WILDS AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2013

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Dad says it’s Ok—The Chandler children take flying leaps into the lake. | ERIC CHANDLER

trip had to grit their teeth for their visits, but my son and I just said, “What?”

One of the advantages of standing up for most of our visits.

The next morning, we paddled south into the wind and picnicked on one of the islands in Alton. Then we portaged to Beth Lake. That’s where we all worked on our cannonball technique.

After we disturbed enough peace, we paddled around some of the islands on Beth Lake and portaged back to Alton.

The breeze patted me on the back for planning a downwind paddle to camp.

The kids took every spare minute to splash off our point. The water is remarkably clear in spring-fed Alton Lake. We’re used to the tea-colored water in most northern lakes. It was odd to open our eyes under water and actually see.

On the third day, the wind shifted from the north, so we paddled into it and portaged to narrow and scenic Kelso Lake. We stopped at another island for another picnic lunch. We chose a spot because it was next to a nicely placed boulder for jumping. So, we refined our cliff diving technique. Once again, we paddled downwind to base camp. Shelley said her favorite part of the trip was the paddling. That’s the point, after all.

I built a fire one night so we could have “camping TV” but did all of our cooking on my single burner camp stove. I tried fishing from the canoe and fishing from the point. I watched some fish fol-

low my Rapala. I’m sure they knew the water was clear and did it to torture me.

One night, the lake was calm and the thunderheads built up. We all huddled as the gusts raged and the rain threatened. I was glad we didn’t sleep under the deadhead tree.

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I spent a lot of time pumping water through my filter for our dehydrated meals and drinking. Next time, I’d get a gravity-fed oversized water purifier.

You scoop a big load and it filters while you’re out playing. I looked like Popeye with giant forearms after wrestling with my small water purifier. It was good, but more useful for a one-person backpacking trip than for four people on a canoe trip. I also need to consider a bigger canoe. Or maybe a second small one. And I can pack my own food next time.

Here’s what I would do the same.

Swim with my kids. Scare fish without catching them. Paddle in the sunshine.

Cannonball and come up sputtering and laughing. Make sure my kids see the bald eagles. The loons. The garter snakes. The white tails on the shoreline. Eat PB and J sandwiches on a rock while the water laps at our feet. Listen to the owls while we’re lying in our bags.

Teach the kids the J-stroke. And we’d get the mandatory pie on the drive back to Duluth, all sunburned and exhausted and happy. One small outdoor memory at a time, designed to build adventurous souls in my children. Yeah, I’d do all those things the same. And hope to again, soon.

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NORTHERN WILDS AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2013

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wy 61

Lake Superior

Get on just as you leave London Road from Duluth going north (right turn), or just after leaving Two Harbors going south (left turn).

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NORTHERN WILDS AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2013

Get Your Kicks

By Breana Roy

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on Scenic 61

Hungry? Consider a drive on the road less traveled: Two-lane Scenic 61 follows Lake Superior between Duluth and Two Harbors. The original highway before the expressway was built, the road is now the pathway to unique eateries. Think of it as the Route 66 of restaurants. Along the way, you’ll find dining choices ranging from gourmet, to down home, to just plain sweet.

The Lighthouse at Emily’s is agreat choice. It is owned by family members Andrea Darsow, Claire Pierson, Lynne Compton and Brita Aug, all born and raised on the shore.

The restaurant has a cozy nautical theme, and the menu includes locally smoked salmon and traditional burgers.

Their Stromburg-er and Beacon Burger won the Grill Wars in Duluth twice.

Emily’s also has outdoor seating and an indoor bar.

“We wanted to focus on fresh fish and comfort food. We make a turkey dinner every Sunday with mashed potatoes,” said Brita.

And who is Emily you ask? She was the original owner, whose granddaughter, Carol, took over in the mid 1980’s.

While there’s no relation to Brita and her family, the name is significant to many community members.

ABOVE: The Lighthouse at Emily's offers comfort food in a cozy setting. | SUBMITTED PHOTO. TOP RIGHT: Great Lakes Candy Kitchen offers goodies galore. ABOVE RIGHT: Miki and her mother Penny are making positive changes at the Mocha Moose. | BREANA ROY PHOTOS

everyone," said Molly.

from Minnesota and Wisconsin artists.

Clearwater also provides catering and can host up to 500 people. Clearwater is open seven days a week year round.

Visit www.clearwatereventcenter.com or call 218-525-4826 for more info.

“We’re both really artsy and creative, and we just like working with people,” said Micki.

Whether you are looking for coffee, lunch or good company, you’ll find it and more at the Mocha Moose, owned by Penny and Micki Agar since December 2012.

“We absolutely love the Knife River community, and this building has been everything to the community. It’s been a general store, bed and breakfast, post office and restaurant,” Brita said.

“We’re a mom and pop type of place,” says Penny. Or in this case, mother and daughter; the duo is bringing more than just coffee to the new-and-improved eclectic shop.

The Lighthouse at Emily’s is open seven days a week year round. Visit www.lighthouseatemilys.com or call 218-834-2501 for more info.

Mocha Moose serves breakfast, lunch and specialty appetizers. Their coffee is roasted in Duluth, and most of the produce and ingredients come from the surrounding area.

Clearwater Grille and Events Center is also a great stopping choice. Owned

by Ricky and Molly Dollar since 2010, the menu includes appetizers, salads, pizzas, burgers and full dinner entrées featuring pasta, steaks, fresh fish and seafood. They also have desserts, beer, wine, signature cocktails, a gluten-free menu and they serve breakfast every Saturday and Sunday.

"We have a little bit of everything for

“We try and do organic and local as much as possible,” said Micki. “We’re more along the lines of a bistro, not just a coffee house. The ultimate goal is to make the property more sustainable.”

They hope someday to have their own organic garden. Until then, they remain huge advocates of supporting the community in all ways possible, including selling handcrafted jewelry and crafts

To top it all off, Mocha Moose also has a liquor license, selling bottled beer and wine, and they host live music every weekend. They also have a book club meeting once a month.

Mocha Moose is open seven days a week and can be reached at 218-834-6299.

End your trip with dessert from the family-owned Great Lakes Candy Kitchen — a must-stop for anyone with a sweet tooth. Fair warning: self-control is needed.

Now a third-generation store, Gust Canelake started the original candy store on the Iron Range in 1905. He then taught his recipes to his sons, John and Leo. More than 100 years later the same recipes have been perfected, making for some amazing handmade, oldfashioned candies.

“We make everything here except the gummies and the taffy,” said Andy Matson, a fourth generation candymaker. “We make all the fudge, caramels and creams.”

Pamela Matson and Patricia Canelake

now run the business, along with Pamela’s husband Dennis Matson and son Andy. The store is in its seventh season on the Scenic 61 route. The name Great Lakes Candy Kitchen holds dual meaning, referring to the store’s location on Lake Superior and to the Canelake name.

With so much sugar to choose from, you’re bound to find something to satisfy your sweet spot. The front display case is filled with chocolate, including everything from truffles to turtles and even chocolate shaped fish. The store also sells local goodies, toys for the kids and coffee for those in need. You can even order candy online, the perfect gift to send a chocoholic. Or treat yourself with a candy basket — we won’t tell.

Great Lakes Candy Kitchen is open seven days a week until Dec. 31. Visit www.greatlakescandy.com or call 218834-2121 for more info.

Other great stops on the Scenic 61 route include New Scenic Café, Russ Kendall’s Smoke House, Clearwater Grille and the Ledge Rock Grille— more tasty places than you can sample in drive along this Route 66 of restaurants. Don’t be surprised to find yourself planning a return trip to this road less travelled.

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NORTHERN WILDS AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2013

Capturing the Canoe Country

While the author doesn’t often take landscape photographs, he can’t resist doing so in the canoe country. | MICHEAL FURTMAN

It may come as a surprise to many people, but the Boundary Waters and Quetico are really not great locations for wildlife photography! Why?

might be a moose, or a family of otters, or a bald eagle perched on a limb.

Such events are hard to repeat, and difficult to predict. My advice? Be prepared!

These vast wilderness areas are largely boreal forest, If you hope to photoa habitat type that has relagraph wildlife on your tively low densities of wildcanoe trip, first you must life, and of those species that be quiet. If you are travellive there, most have large ing in a group that likes territories. Consequently, to chat between canoes,

BY MICHAEL FURTMAN finding critters to photoor has a member with the graph often depends upon annoying habit of bangluck – just being in the right place at ing the side of the canoe with a paddle, I the right time. Round a bend, and there think you can pretty much forget about

Through My Lens

seeing much wildlife. Second, you must have your camera gear out and ready. I know that frightens people, but I can guarantee you that it will be a very rare occasion that you’ll have the time to dig your camera out of a waterproof pack.

Most subjects simply won’t wait that long.

You can, however, TRY to predict where animals might be – and when.

Almost all canoe country wildlife is most active in the early morning and late evening. It has also been my experience that areas with some marsh associated with it – slow, meandering streams, weedy back bays – tend to be most attractive to animals. There you might

encounter moose, or otters, and some of the waterfowl species that nest here, like the secretive Ring-necked duck, or Black ducks. Let the noisy paddler sleep in while you sneak slowly along quiet shores, and you’re bound to find something at which to point your camera.

I have to admit, though, that when I’m on a canoe trip, I tend to photograph subjects other than wildlife. Although I make no claim to be a great landscape photographer, I take many of them while on canoe trips. The lakes and rivers beg for panoramic photos.

As a wildlife photographer, I rarely use lens filters, but while in canoe country,

NORTHERN WILDS AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2013 I consider a polarizing filter a must for daytime photos. These filters tend to darken the blue of the sky, make the white clouds pop, take glare off the rippling waves, and allow the camera to penetrate below the water’s surface. For sunrise or sunset shots, take the polarizer off, though. Instead, to deepen the intensity of these beautiful colors, try under-exposing the scene by anywhere from 1/3rd to one-full stop.

On those gray days that give photographers fits because no matter how you photograph the landscape it looks “blah”, turn your attention to macro-photography. The canoe country is home to an amazing variety of mosses, lichens, berries, and fungus. The flat light of a gray day is perfect for these subjects.

I like to use my telephoto lens for many of these images, although it does force me to step back quite a distance to do so.

One of the unique features of a telephoto lens is that it beautifully blurs the background – an effect called “bokeh” – which focuses the viewer’s attention on the subject.

Make sure you pack plenty of batteries and extra memory cards. As I upgrade cards, I never toss the older, smaller capacity cards, because they make great backups on canoe trips. Better to be shooting to an old, slow card than not shooting at all!

My final advice is to play with angles. Climb that ridge and shoot down and across the lake. Try photographing scenes from just above the water’s surface for an interesting perspective. Lay on the ground to capture the moss or lichen.

Yes, finding a moose or bear or otter to photograph in the canoe country is mostly pure, dumb luck. Fortunately, the landscape itself, and the amazing diversity of plants, will provide you with more than enough subjects to keep any photographer busy and happy.

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A wilderness trip allows you to get up close to Nature and capture intimate portraits such as this shot of white water lilies. | MICHEAL FURTMAN

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NORTHERN WILDS AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2013

Best DayinTrips the

BWCAW

By Bryan Hansel The Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness is primarily used by canoeists taking a canoe camping trip, but that isn’t the only way to experience this gem of the north. Day trips by canoe, kayak or foot can bring you to beautiful locations without the worry of having to set up camp each night. Ely, Tofte and the Gunflint Trail have a different feel, so if you really want to experience the Boundary Waters, you should plan to try each of these day trips.

Gunflint Trail Johnson Falls via East Bearskin: Start this trip at the East Bearskin entry point about 26 miles up the Gunflint from Grand Marais. This part of the

Boundary Waters feels different from the rest, because east-west hills separate the lakes.

Paddling here feels like paddling through mountainous terrain.

From East Bearskin canoe to Little Alder, Alder and Canoe Lake.

Portages, where you carry your canoe and gear from one lake to the next, separate the lakes. At Canoe Lake, find the portage to Pine Lake, which also takes You never know when you may encounter critters like this curious pine marten along a portage trail. you to Johnson Falls, | BRYAN HANSEL one of the most picturMagnetic Rock: Follow the Gunflint hike to the lake, eat lunch and then hike esque waterfalls in the BWCAW. Trail north from Grand Marais for 47 back to your kayaks and paddle back to miles to the Magnetic Rock parking the entry point. lot. The hiking trails winds its way 1.5 miles through an area burned by the 2007 Ham Lake fire to Magnetic Rock, a rock that looks like the obelisk from the movie 2001. Along the way, take in views of granite-filled valleys in an area that usually is covered in a dense mass of Boreal forest. Bring a magnet and compass to amuse yourself.

Your magnet will stick to the rock, and your compass needle will point towards it.

Tofte Area

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Brule Lake: Stretching eight miles from end to end, the Brule is one of the largest lakes in the BWCAW. Because it’s so large, it’s best to use sea kayaks which can handle the big waves that the prevailing strong afternoon winds generate. The extra speed of sea kayaks also allows you to reach the portage to Cam Lake in a casual day.

Cam Lake at the northwestern corner of the lake looks like a meteor crater. At the portage,

Day trippers can find solitude on short excursions into the wilderness.| BRYAN HANSEL

NORTHERN WILDS AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2013 Kelso River Loop: The Kelso River Loop, also known locally as the voyage to the Viking dolman, starts on Sawbill Lake at the end of the Sawbill Trail.

Paddle from Sawbill Lake to the Kelso River and Kelso Lake. At Kelso Lake, search the eastern shore to find the Viking dolman, a kitchen-table-sized rock balanced on three small stones. Some local guides claim Vikings carved runes into the stone. After finding the dolman, canoe to Alton Lake and then portage back into Sawbill.

Ely Area Hegman Pictographs: Follow the Echo Trail north to the parking lot for South Hegman Lake. Hike the 80-rod portage from the parking lot to the lake and then canoe north and portage into North Hegman.

Follow the western shore past an island. The bright red pictographs are on a granite cliff near the point where the lake turns into a bottle neck. The most distinct paintings look like a moose, lynx and a human. Don’t touch the paintings, as oil from your skin could cause them to deteriorate.

Lake One: Lake One makes for an easy day of exploration. Launch your canoe from the entry point at the end of Fernberg Road, poke around Lake One’s many bays, and paddle past headlands. The center of the lake is dotted with islands to explore, and the campsites make great places to stop for lunch. There’s great fishing and wildlife viewing all around, especially in the bays. If you’re feeling motivated, you can portage and explore Lakes Two through Four.

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Permits You need a permit to do any trip into the BWCAW. Luckily for day trippers, you only need to register your trip on a self-issuing permit. Look for a permit box at the parking lot, fill out the permit, leave the government’s side in the box and take your half with you.

Bryan Hansel is a photographer, writer and sea kayaking instructor. He owns North Shore Expeditions, a kayak guiding company that guides trips in the BWCAW and on Lake Superior. His website is www.bryanhansel.com.

What better way to cap off a day than by catching a fish? | BRYAN HANSEL

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NORTHERN WILDS AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2013

Late Summer Angling Options The last lingering days of walleye destinations go, summer are bitter sweet for you could do worse than the angler in Northwestern Rainy Lake. The whole Ontario. Shorter days and system is literally boomcooler nights means suming with fish from 25 to 30 mer is winding down. inches. And not just a few The carefree afternoons of them. So many overcasting in shorts and tsized walleye are caught shirts become an increasin Rainy that a food-sized ingly rare commodity. But fish is a major cause for late summer is also a recelebration. They will hit ally great time to get on just about everything too; the water as the launch- BY GORD ELLIS from metal jigging spoons es are clear and the Sea to a jig and leech. When Doos get put away for the getting more eater-sized season. Best of all, the bite for just walleye is your preference, I’d head to about everything is seriously on. Lac des Mille Lac, located northwest of Thunder Bay. This sprawling, stained For the angler, late summer provides water lake is jam-packed with walleye, one of the most consistent periods of and the average fish is about 16 inches. the year to target walleye. Old marble There are bigger ones, for sure, but you eyes is usually hunkered down on sum- will catch a lot of shore-lunch-sized mer structure as July rolls into August, guys between the trophies. These fish and that means locating some mid- lake are structure oriented, and just about structure and working it. If big walleye any reef that tops off at about 6 feet will are your goal, this is prime time. As big hold walleye. A live bait rig and crawler, or jig and leech, are both consistent producers on Lac.

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For those who like to chase muskellunge, late summer provides a great opportunity to catch these monster fish in extra skinny water. Muskie will hunker down in the weeds, waiting to explode on a big topwater lure, spinner bait or bucktail.

There are many good muskie lakes to choose from in the Northwest, but for big

fish and numbers, Lake of the Woods cannot be beat. Best of all, you can catch them nearly anywhere in the Woods, including around the well-travelled waters of Kenora and Keewatin. Coming a close second would be Wabigoon Lake, at Dryden. Huge, shallow and murky, Wabigoon kicks out gigantic muskie every summer, with lots of fish in the 40 to 48 inch range, and some beasts way bigger than that. These Wabigoon fish can be found in three feet of water or less. It’s heart-attack city when they blow up on a buzz bait.

For the smallmouth bass angler, the choices are also varied. So many lakes have great bass fishing these days it is almost easier to name the ones that don’t.

Near Thunder Bay, Shebandowan Lake has to top the list. Although it is a well-used cottage lake, Shebs seems to be getting better each year, with more and bigger bass. The lake is split into lower, middle and upper, and all three sections are quite different. All hold great bass. Throw a tube or a top water out there and hang on. Another Northwestern Ontario sleeper for bass is Whitefish Lake, near Nolalu.

Traditionally known for its walleye and perch, Whitefish is rapidly becoming a bass hotspot. A recent bass tournament on the lake ended up with record weights as 4-and 5-pound bass were caught.

Man cannot live by spiny, toothy fish alone, so that brings us to trout and salmon. For Chinook salmon fishing in August, probably the most consistent action is enjoyed near Wawa, at the mouth of the Michipicoten River on Lake Superior. They still catch 20-pound-plus salmon here with some regularity. The waters off the town of

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Big brook trout are on the prowl as summer fades, preparing for their late-autumn spawn. | GORD ELLIS

Marathon also account for some nice salmon, especially near the mouth of the Pic River. The lower Nipigon River and Nipigon Bay are both prime for salmon in late summer, with a good run of fish in the area by August. Thunder Bay also has a fine salmon fishery, with trollers catching these fish at the Welcome Islands and just south of the break wall.

Finally, for brook trout and lakers, Lake Superior has coasters and redfin lakers in relatively shallow water in late summer. The coasters will be shallower than the lake trout, on average, but in cool years like this one, I’ve caught them side by side. Cast spoons or bucktail jigs at river mouths, rocky shorelines and points along the coast to tangle with these lovely native fish. There is nothing prettier than a coaster in its bright August coat!

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NORTHERN WILDS AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2013

Enter the Northern Wilds 2013 Photography Contest

Give Us Your Best shot Categories: PeoPle • Places • animals

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Win Fabulous Prizes!

Prizes will be awarded by category and include: First Place: $250 in class credits at the North House Folk School in Grand Marais. second Place: Zen hoody provided by Stone Harbor Wilderness Supply Zen Hoody logo sweatshirt. rules: Please email your entries to contest@northernwilds.com. Contestants may enter up to three photos per category. All photo entries must include the following information: 1) Contestant’s name, address, telephone number and email. 2) A short description of the photograph indicating where and when the picture was taken and identification of persons shown in the picture. 3) Contestants agree to allow Northern Wilds Media to publish the photos (with credit) for editorial and publicity purposes.

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NORTHERN WILDS AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2013

NORTHERN WILDS AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2013

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NORTHERN WILDS AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2013

What’s Brewing?

Lake Superior’s North Shore Becomes a Craft Beer Mecca

By Javier Serna Almost suddenly, the North Shore has become a brewing tourism destination. Changing laws have sparked more brewing operations to pop up here and contribute to an existing brewing culture. No matter where you turn, delicious craft beer is never far away. Here’s a rundown of brewing operations in the Northern Wilds:

DULUTH Bent Paddle Brewing Co. www.bentpaddlebrewing.com

Started this spring by a pair of outdoors-minded couples, Bent Paddle opens its tasting room Wednesday through Saturday, when pints and growlers (including the stainless steel variety, which are BWCAW-legal) are available. A free tour on Saturdays fills up, so sign up in advance on the company website. The brewery’s two flagship beers, available at several local taps, are also found in can form at select Duluth liquor stores.

That includes the citrusy Bent Hop Golden IPA, and Black Ale, which is a smooth cross between a porter and stout.

Blacklist

www.blacklistbrewing.com Blacklist, which started up in January, is without a permanent home and is currently renting brewing space from Dubrue (listed below). As of press time, Blacklist was distributing only one brew, Strong Belgian Golden, a crisp, citrus- and melon-toned

beer with a 9.5 percent ABV (be careful with this one). Brewmaster Brian Schanzenbach said Blacklist will focus on Belgian-influenced beer. The beer is available at several liquor stores and a handful of eating and drinking establishments in Duluth, with plans to distribute along the North Shore. “We have to make sure we have Duluth quenched first,” Schanzenbach said.

Canal Park Brewing Co. www.canalparkbrewery.com

This outfit opened up last year and sells pints and growlers onsite seven days a week, along with a full menu. Canal Park runs brewery tours hourly (an $8 charge includes a filled pint glass or $6 for an empty glass for those under the age of 21).

The brewers pump out a mix of styles, from the Ankle Deep Pilsner to the heady but smooth Dawn Treader Belgian Tripel, which has been dubbed “the velvet hammer” for its 9.2 percent ABV by Pepin Young, one of Canal Park’s nine brewers.

Carmody Irish Pub

Bent Paddle Brewing Co. opened its doors this spring, with enough capacity for distribution and to serve pints and growlers at its taproom. | JAVIER SERNA

www.carmodyirishpub.com This Irish brew pub, located at about the center of a roughly four-block radius that includes five of the establishments on this list, has made a serious go of its small-batch brewing operation, with several regu-

Member FDIC

lar brews and seasonals. Brewmaster Jason Baumgarth is releasing an experimental and extremely limited micro batch every Sunday afternoon. “I’m going to go a whole year without repeating,” said Baumgarth on a recent Sunday after patrons had washed down their meals with a tart blueberry Hefeweizen. The

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NORTHERN WILDS AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2013 beer is also available at its new Two Harbors location, Carmody 61.

more focus on barrel-aged sour beer, with the intent of always having one of the acidic, tart brews available.

Dubh Linn Irish Brew Pub

KNIFE RIVER Borealis Fermentery

www.dubhlinnpub.com

Dubh Linn, which has been operating out of a remodeled drugstore, brews small batches of craft beer, and typically carries about four different styles of beer, on top of a full lineup of beers. The pub, which is opened Monday through Saturday, puts much focus on its menu, where pub classics such as shepherd’s pie and bangers & mash are offered. The pub also has several pool tables, and national touring comics perform on most Friday evenings.

Dubrue

www.dubrue.com Dubrue, opened in 2011, has a pair of ales in circulation: Dubrue Pub Ale, a citrusy English-style session ale and Dubrue India Black Ale, a darker, hoppier ale with grapefruit and lemon tones. Dubrue doesn’t have a tap room, but does offer brewery tours by appointment. Along with several Duluth establishments, it’s served at several places up and down Minnesota’s North Shore, including Two Harbors, Lutsen and both the Angry Trout Café and Gun Flint Tavern in Grand Marais.

www.borealisfermentery.com While this small brewery is not open to the public, its tasty Belgian-style ales are available for purchase at select liquor stores and at some eating establishments on the North Shore. Brewer Ken Thiemann developed a passion for Belgian ales while working as an engineer in the Netherlands in the 2000s. In 2006, he moved to the North Shore and constructed one of the only timberframe strawbale breweries in the country.

Too bad he doesn’t offer tours of the place.

THUNDER BAY Sleeping Giant Brewing Co. www.sleepinggiantbrewing.ca

Sleeping Giant opened last year, and its craft ales

and stouts are available at several locations in Thunder Bay (the company website has a list of outlets). But the brewery also opens its doors to the public Thursdays through Saturdays from noon to 6 p.m. (EST).

Among its offerings are the year-round 360 Degree Ale and Skullrock Stout, which is available only on the last weekend of every summer month.

TWO HARBORS Castle Danger Brewery

www.castledangerbrewery.com

This small brewery opened on the shores of Lake Superior in 2011. While it has plans for expanding to Two Harbors in the future, it currently operates out of a former bathhouse on the grounds of the Castle Haven Cabins resort. Guests have the added benefit of being able to walk to the brewery on Friday and Saturday afternoons and taste what’s brewing, as well as take a growler. But travellers along Hwy. 61 are also encouraged to stop by then.

Fitger’s Brewhouse Brewery and Grille www.brewhouse.net

Consider this ground zero for craft beer on the North Shore. It’s located in the historic Fitger’s Brewery Complex, which housed Duluth’s first brewer of the same name. It closed in 1972. Now the complex is home to a hotel, shops, restaurants, and, since 1995, Fitger’s Brewhouse, where a variety of craft beer complements a full menu seven days a week. Fitger’s was first to offer a sturdy growler that allows visitors to the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness to legally transport craft beer.

Lake Superior Brewing Co. www.lakesuperiorbrewing.com

Lake Superior Brewing, which was started in 1994, was the first brewer back on the scene after the original Fitger’s operation closed. The beer, in bottled form, is pretty widely distributed, and is available in the Cities, for example. But pints and growlers are also available at its brewing operation, where there’s a taproom, and brewery tours are available by appointment.

The North Shore’s best agate picking is near Beaver Bay and Silver Bay. The folks at our local info centers can tell you where to find them.

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SUPERIOR Thirsty Pagan

www.thirstypaganbrewing.com It’s worth a trip over the bridge into Superior, Wis., for not only the Pagan’s brews, but handmade pan pizza. The brewery was formerly Twin Ports Brewery but changed names when owners Steven and Susan Knauss purchased the brewery. It’s open seven days a week, and there’s often live music. Patrons can also purchase growlers. The Thirsty Pagan is now putting

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NORTHERN WILDS AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2013

Too Many Vegetables? Never!

How much is too much when you’re talking homegrown produce?

Well, if you’re like me, there comes a point in the fall when you really don’t want to eat another tiny, tough broccoli shoot from the plants that have been busy producing enthusiastically all summer.

enough to produce every summer.

She has a small garden of her own, but she opens her arms to produce from neighbors and friends, and finds ways to use it.

the Accidental

Gardener

“I’m blessed that people think of me when they have extras,” she said.

“Toss them in my direction and I’ll find ways to use them or pass them on to someone else.”

And I can get totally over- BY JOAN FARNAM whelmed by cherry tomatoes, which swamp my refrigerator and, seemingly, my life, by Last fall, for example, a friend had harmid-September. vested everything she wanted from her Not to mention the zucchini glut. It’s wonderful, but every night?

garden and invited Kennedy to come over and pick what she wanted.

Enter Kelsey Kennedy. This exuberant, enthusiastic woman has inspiring things to say about how to handle the cornucopia of vegetables we’re lucky

Kennedy laughs in amazement when she says she came home with a whole carload of vegetables.

The first thing she did was call some

STOP INVASIVE SPECIES IN YOUR TRACKS Give Invasive Species The Brush Off

friends. “Would you like to take anything?” she asked them.

They took armfuls.

But she was still left with more than enough, including rutabagas and kale, vegetables she had never cooked before in her life.

Kelsey Kennedy (right) enjoys the challenges of preparing and preserving an array of herbs and vegetables. | SUBMITTED PHOTO

She immediately consulted friends about what to do with kale.

Several suggested kale chips, “But I don’t like chips that much,” Kennedy said. Instead, she realized she’d love to put something green in a pasta sauce, so she cooked it up with garlic, olive oil

and red pepper flakes, tossed it with a red pasta sauce and fell in love.

“It’s really good,” she said. “I like it to get really wilted with this rich, garlicky flavor.”

She solved the problem of having too much kale in too short a time by freezing it. That’s a great way to save all kinds

Do You Own Land?

Learn About: • The importance of a forest management plan • How to choose a professional logger • What makes a

timber sale Aregood you considering a timber harvest? contract • Minnesota Certified Master Loggers

MLEP members log more than 90% of the state’s annual timber harvest. The Minnesota Forest Resource Management Directory provides a listing of logging business owners who have met MLEP’s training and business requirements.

Further, we have free landowner information manuals available that will provide you with the resources you need for a successful timber sale experience.

Visit www.mlep.org or contact us today to receive additional information, a free Landowner’s Manual and resource directory.

Help Prevent The Spread Of Invasive Plants And Animals.

• Arrive with clean gear.

• Burn local or certified firewood.

• Use local or weed-free hay.

• Stay on the trails.

• Before leaving, remove mud and seeds.

Minnesota Master Logger Certification MLEP’s Minnesota Master Logger Certification program provides added confidence to customers and the public that the person performing a harvest has the education and experience to do the job correctly. It is an independent, third-party audit of a logging business’s harvest, safety and business practices.

For additional information or to receive a free directory and Minnesota Logger Education Program • 301 W 1st Street; Suite 510 • Duluth, MN 55802 landowner information manual, contact our office or visit us (218) 722-5442 • fax: 218-722-5196 www.mlep.org on the•web at: www.mlep.org

NORTHERN WILDS AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2013

Taste of the North

of vegetables for another day, she said.

Rutabagas were quite a surprise. She discovered she had a real taste for them.

The first ones were eaten with potatoes on the recommendation of friends, but now she likes to eat them straight. With butter, a little salt and cream, they’re delicious, she said.

She’s come up with some unique preserving tricks, too.

37

Grandma’s Blueberry Pie From “A Taste of the Gunflint Trail”

It’s satisfying to have a wellstocked larder after you finish your garden harvest.

She got a spice grinder last year and has found all kinds of uses for it. She dries hot peppers and grinds them for table use. Mixing dried herbs to toss into casseroles or vegetable dishes is easy using a spice grinder, too, she said.

And she discovered that if she dried the leftovers from processing tomatoes in the oven, and then put them in a grinder, they made a perfect thickener and taste enhancer for many dishes. “It makes great salad dressings -- just a wide range of deliciousness,” she said.

She’s a pesto lover, too, and is totally sold on carrottop pesto.

Ground with garlic, walnuts and good olive oil, it’s excellent on a chunk of bread, she said.

And, she adds, doing Internet searches on what to do with a vegetable is a great boon. Focus on the photos, she said, and figure out how you can make it.

Canning is also one of her passions. She cans tomatoes, ketchup, salsa, hot sauce and lots of different pickles.

One of her triumphs last year (to be repeated this year) was her first foray into making watermelon-rind pickles. A friend’s grandmother made them, she said.

“I had one slice for the first time when I was seven. She had a jar in the fridge and rationed them off.” Kennedy never forgot that sweet, crunchy experience and tried them last year. They’re awesome as a relish, she said.

In short, Kennedy practices what all of us who tend gardens have learned -- harvest time is just the start of our culinary pleasures.

She doubles that pleasure, too, by sharing with friends and family as well as members of the community.

Kennedy has started a Food Swap program in Grand Marais, where people are invited to bring everything from extra produce to their jams and jellies and swap with people. The first one is Aug. 1.

To find out more, check out the Facebook page at NorthernMNFoodSwap.

One of the most memorable events for the late Alis Brandt of Nor' Wester Lodge was the annual blueberry season. She loved to pick the shiny small berries and was once even filmed picking by a local TV crew. She continued to pick berries until well into her nineties.

One of her favorite recipes was for blueberry pie.

To cut down on the mess in her kitchen, and the inevitable “his piece is bigger then mine” argument, she would bake each of her three sons their own individual pie. Then she would send them off to the island to eat it and keep the mess and discussion out of her kitchen.

5 cups of blueberries, fresh or frozen add 3 T. flour if you use fresh berries, 1/4 cup if frozen berries are used 1 cup sugar 1/2 tsp. of lemon peel Mix together. Pour into a pie tin covered with the lower pie crust. Attach upper crust. Seal and bake at 375° for 1 hour.

(L-R) Alis Brandt, Jeanette Morris, Mamie Brandt and Victor Brandt with blueberries picked many summers ago.

A Taste of the Gunflint Trail by the Women of the Gunflint Trail Recipes & Stories from the Lodges as shared by the Women of the Gunflint Trail © 2005 by Gunflint Trail Volunteer Fire Department Adventure Publications, Inc. , Cambridge, MN, $19.95

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NORTHERN WILDS AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2013

Finland Two Harbors

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Open 11 a.m. daily - Year Round Serving homemade Apollo pizza since 1941 Daily lunch and dinner special On-Off Sale Pull Tabs

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thing!”

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Lutsen

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Lockport

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Breakfast and Lunch Served Homemade pasties, pies, baked goods Gas - Groceries - Gifts 7 a.m. - 9 p.m. Daily 5362 W Hwy 61 Lutsen, MN 218-663-7548

7611 Gunflint Trail, Grand Marais, MN 218-388-2214 •trailcenterlodge.com

Grand Marais

on Hwy 61 in Two Harbors, MN www.thevanillabean.com

South of the Border

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Beaver Bay Breakfast & Daily Lunch Specials

Enjoy our Carved Moose Antler & Lake Superior Agate Collections

Breakfast Served All Day Lunch • Homemade Soups

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Try us once You’ll be back for more 218-353-7343 6 mi N of Hwy 61 on Hwy 1

Located at the stop light in Grand Marais 218-387-1505

NORTHERN WILDS AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2013

Grand Marais

Grand Marais

Grand Marais

Kakabeka Falls

CASCADE RESTAURANT&PUB

Cascades Restaurant

3719 W. Hwy 61 (218) 387-2911

www.cascadelodgemn.com

111 Wisconsin Street Grand Marais, Minnesota www.GunFlintTavern.com

218-387-1563 MENU

- Eclectic & Ethnic Menu, Many Vegetarian Choices • Craftmade Soups • Organic Product Used Widely

BEER &

WINE

Outdoor Patio

LIVE MUSIC YEAR ROUND - Blues, Jazz, Reggae & Rock

SPIRITS

- Over 40 Micro Brews • 16 Micros on Draft • Fine Wines • Fine Spirits Available from the “Raven”

Sun-Thurs: 11am - 8pm Fri & Sat: 11am - 9pm

Naniboujou Lodge and Restaurant

Homemade, handcrafted breakfast, lunch and dinner, open year round.

Join us for Happy Hour, 3-6pm!

Hovland

10% off Liquor Store Purchase of Beer/Wine/Liquor w ad

Kakabeka Falls – 30 K FROM THUNDER BAY –

Homemade Pizzas, Panzerottis, Burgers, Fries and more!

Gluten Free & Vegetarian

807-473-5453

Individual, groups and family dining.

218-387-1597

Located downtown on the harbor It’s tIme to go to Blue Water and eat

Breakfast (7:30-10:30) Lunch (11:30-4) Dinner (5:30-8:30) Afternoon Tea (3-5) Located on Highway 61 just 15 miles east of Grand Marais

www.naniboujou.com 218.387.2688

KaKabeKa Falls M oto r H ot e l

Menu featuring all-you-can-eat Prime Rib buffet.

3065 Hwy 588 Silver Mountain, ON

807-475-4406

Find us on Facebook and Twitter.

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· Specialty Coffee · Full Bakery · Awesome Food

• “Broasted Chicken” • Dine in or Take Out • Open Daily • Fish Fry on Fridays

4807 Hwy 11/17, Kakabeka Village • 807-473-9012

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Downtown Kakabeka Falls

Breakfast • lunCh • Dinner ChilDren’s Menus

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“Our Speciality” Homemade Bread!

Homemade Pizzas Sweet Rolls! Brownies!

Fireside Dining on Patio Burgers - Salads - Shakes Breakfast - Lunch - Dinner Free WiFi 218-475-2253 Beer & Wine served

Metropolitan Moose Beanery & Cafe

“The Meeting Place in Grand Marais”

Near Falls and Serving “Old-Fashioned” Trails!

Chicago Bay Marketplace & Liquor Store

4789 Hwy 11-17, Kakabeka Falls

Blue Water Cafe

Open 8 am Daily, Year Round Full Menu • Breakfast Anytime Home-made Pies Full Liquor License

Thunder Bay

807-473-9446

218-387-1915 401 E. HWY 61, GRAND MARAIS, MN

39

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40

NORTHERN WILDS AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2013

Books, Cards, and Journals

Outward Hound Backpack

by local artists and authors LIFE LOVE & NEGOT

Paddling IATION ON THE VOYAG

EUR’S HIGHWAY

to Winter JULIE BUCKLES

Dogs like to be part of the team, so why not let your pup carry some gear over the portage? Kyjen’s Outward Hound Backpack is a well-designed, sturdy pack with plenty of storage room. The backpack has a saddle-style harness that comfortably cinches to the dog’s torso.

The removable pack attaches to the harness with Velcro. With large compartments, mesh pockets and a water bottle holder, the backpack is suitable for day trips or weeklong excursions. Suggested retail $47.99. www.kyjen.com — Amber Pratt

Sports SUV Tent 82000

and the BW Calendar

All Minnesota Made!

The Sports SUV Tent 82000 by Napier Outdoors wraps around the hatch and cargo area of your SUV so you can use the vehicle for extra space and storage. We found the tent was easy for two people to set up.

A roomy interior (9x9 ft.) and a high ceiling (7 ft.) make the tent suitable for cots and spacious enough to two or three people and their gear. A full rain fly and awning (not shown in photo), plus a bathtub-style floor allow the tent to be a rainy day base camp. The tent has two large entrance doors, three windows with storm flaps and two skylights. You don’t have to use the SUV attachment. If you do, the only drawback we noted is if you leave the hatch open for an extended period, the interior lights in the vehicle may drain the battery. Suggested retail $339. www.napieroutdoors .com —Amber Pratt

P.O. Box 188, Ely, MN 55731 218-365-3375

Find at your favorite stores, call for a free catalog, or visit our website

www.

RavenWords

.com

80 Skyport Lane Grand Marais, MN 55604 218-387-1687

www.superiorlightsource.com

REVIEWS Grate Chef Grill wipes

Get out of sticky grilling situations with Grill Wipes. Put one of the oiled pads on a wire grill brush and rub across the grill to apply a high-temperature oil that won’t burn off. Whatever you grill won’t stick, but will still get grill marks. Grill Wipes are nonflammable, nontoxic and biodegradable. $8.99/18 wipes —Shawn Perich

Trash-Ease

Fish cleaners take note: Trash-Ease is a convenient way to get rid of waste on the cleaning table without making a slimy mess. This ingenious device will slip on to a table or another flat surface and securely hold a 13- or 33-gallon trash bag, allowing you to have a trash receptacle adjacent to your work area. Trash-Ease is powder-coated and rubber-dipped so it won’t damage the finish on a table or other surface. It’s easy to store where you need it, whether in a camper or at the cabin. $14.95 (13 gallon) - $17.95 (33 gallon) www.trash-ease.com —Shawn Perich

ATN Night Trek 3X Monocular

Have you wondered what night vision technology is all about?

American Technologies Network Corp.makes night vision devices for military, law enforcement and security purposes. It’s new Night Trek 3X Monocular is an affordable, entry-level unit perfect for fooling around in the backyard or at a campsite. Water- and fog-resistant, it has a built-in infrared illuminator. Powered on 3V (CR 123A) batteries, the Night Trek runs up to 30 hours. While the company says the effective detection distance is up to 200 yards, we found it most useful at distances of 50 yards or less. Within that range, performance was excellent. The ATN Night Treks come with instructions, lens tissue, battery, lens cap, and warranty card all in a soft carry case. $219 www. atncorp.com —Shawn Perich

NORTHERN WILDS AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2013

Kiota H20

Cool and comfy is the best way to describe Kiota H20 high-performance, lightweight sandals from Lizard. The primary reason is the COCOON sole unit, which is cup-shaped, anatomically correct and lined in microfiber. Soft webbing uppers have seven anchor points for a great fit and improved stability. www. lizardfootwear.com --Amber Pratt

Quetico Adventures

By Tim Mead

Ancient Angler Press, 2013, $16.95

Author Tim Mead has canoed Quetico Provincial Park for over 30 years. In that time, he’s explored remote lakes, caught lots of fish and shared good company. Most of the chapters are in journal form and chronicle individual trips.

Mead has a nice, readable writing style. Throughout the book he offers lots of simple, sage advice for canoe trippers. And he’s a good storyteller, too. www.TimMeadFishing.com —Shawn Perich

Fishing the River of Time

By Tony Taylor

Greystone Books, 2013, $19.95

This is not a fishing book, even though it is about fishing.

The 80-year-old author travels from Australia to Vancouver Island to go fishing with an 8-year-old grandson he’s never met. But this is a story told in many layers, as the author recounts his past life on Vancouver Island, what he learned about the island’s ecology and, most importantly, what, through fishing, he’s learned about life. The writing is crisp, clean and runs deep, recalling another great Vancouver Island author, Roderick HaigBrown. A must-read for anyone who appreciates fishing literature—or exceptional prose.—Shawn Perich

Ojibwe Shoulder Bag Kit

Celebrate Ojibwe culture while decorating your own bandolier shoulder bag. This kid-approved kit is the perfect entertainment on a rainy day and allows creative thinking. Historically used to carry tobacco and personal items, the bandolier bag can now be seen on display at dances and powwows. The kit comes with 2 preprinted bags, crayons, glitter glue, a 4-video DVD and guidebook with instructions and Ojibwe history. Try adding more embellishments such as beads or feathers to add to the fun.

The kit is produced by the Minnesota Historical Society in collaboration with the Mille Lacs Indian Museum and can be ordered online at www.mhspress.org for $18.95. — Breana Roy

What’s In Your Boat House?

AMAZING STORIES OF NAUTICAL ARCHAEOLOGY

By Bob Matson

North Star Press, 2013, $21.95

If you enjoy vintage motorboats, be they wood or metal, you’ll enjoy these stories and color photos of an earlier era. Bob Matson of Ely restores old boats and has collected stories about recreational watercraft from around the country. While of special interest to vintage boat collectors, anyone who has known an old boat will find this book a worthy addition to their library.—Shawn Perich

Isle Royale Families Cookbook A COLLECTION OF RECIPES FROM SUMMER RESIDENTS 1886-2013

Isle Royale Family and friends Association, 2013

Long before it was a national park, Isle Royale was a summer home for commercial fishermen and families with cabins. The descendants of those early summer residents have compiled a cookbook that spans more than a century. You can find recipes for everything from whitefish livers to blueberry pie. This is a great addition to anyone’s collection of local cookbooks. Currently, the only place we know where you can purchase the book is at the Lake Superior Trading Post in Grand Marais.—Shawn Perich

come in and get outside Choose a career in forestry, conservation, urban forestry, parks, recreation, hydrology and more! Earn a degree in “Forest and Natural Resource Management” at the University of Minnesota for a career you’ll enjoy! Come join one of the top programs in the country! forestry.umn.edu

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NORTHERN WILDS AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2013

By Deane Morrison UNIVERSITY OF MINNESOTA STARWATCH August - September 2013

August opens with the spectacle of a waning moon dropping past three planets over three mornings.

First up is Jupiter, a beacon above the eastern horizon. Look an hour before sunrise on the 3rd to see an old moon a little to the planet’s upper right. Next comes Mars; on the 4th, a thinner crescent appears to the Red Planet’s lower right. And on the 5th, look half an hour before sunrise for a slip of a moon to Mercury’s lower right. Mercury is quite low, forming a slightly crooked line with Mars and Jupiter.

This is a good year for the Perseid meteor shower, with prime viewing in the predawn hours of Aug. 11 through 13.

Typically bright, Perseids fly at up to 36 miles per second and often leave persistent trails.

In the evening sky, Venus keeps blazing away, though it’s rather close to the sunset horizon. Waxing crescent moons visit on Aug. 9 and Sept. 8, and Saturn, sinking into the sun’s afterglow, glides past Venus Sept. 19.

High in the south floats the Summer Triangle of stars: brilliant Vega, in Lyra, the lyre, in the northwest corner; Deneb, in Cygnus, the swan, east of Vega; and Altair, in Aquila, the eagle, to the south. Just east of the Triangle, little Delphinus, the dolphin, leaps between the Milky Way’s river of stars and the Great Square of Pegasus.

August’s full Sturgeon Moon — named for the large fish that is easily caught this time of year — rises gorgeously round on the 20th. September’s Harvest Moon reaches fullness on the 19th at 6:13 a.m. and sets (in Ely) at 7:05 a.m.

The fall equinox arrives at 3:44 p.m.

Sept. 22. At that moment, the sun crosses the equator, and Earth’s lighted surface extends from pole to pole.

The University of Minnesota offers public viewings of the night sky at its Duluth campus. For more information and viewing schedules, see Duluth, Marshall W. Alworth Planetarium: www.d.umn.edu/planet

Call to book your next stay in Duluth!

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KAYAK LAKE SUPERIOR, the BWCAW or an inland lake near Grand Marais with North Shore Expeditions, Grand Marais' most experienced kayak guiding company. For a list of trips and kayaking courses visit www.northshoreexpeditions.com or call 218-370-8351.

LAND OWNERS

OUTFITTERS BEAR TRACK OUTFITTING CO. & BALLY CREEK CABINS 41st year in business offering full-service outfitting for BWCAW canoe & sea kayak trips, backpacking Isle Royale, Year ‘round rustic cabins, retail gift & camping supplies.

Guided Day Trips. Lake Superior Charters. outfitters@beartrack.com www.bear-track.com 1-800-795-8068

WEDDING SERVICES

CHARTER FISHING

Licensed wedding officiant celebrating diversity of people, love and spiritual traditions. Personalized wedding ceremonies performed in Metro area or Minnesota’s North Shore. Contact Jean at 651-600-0169 or www.vitalityandjoy.com

BEAR TRACK’S FISHIN’ CHICS Lake Superior ½ day Fishing Charters for Trout and Salmon aboard 27’ boat with the Williams. Shore cruises, Bird tours, lunch and dinner cruises. Inland fly-fishing & spin-cast guides, Fly-fishing clinics. outfitters@bear-track.com www.bear-track.com Toll-free 1-800-795-8068

CLASSES

FISHING GUIDES

PHOTOGRAPHY WORKSHOPS AND CLASSES. Join professional photographer Bryan Hansel for a Lake Superior photography workshop, course or for one-on-one photography instruction in Grand Marais. Learn to create stunning and inspired images today. For details visit www. bryanhansel.com.

Joe's Inland Guide Service NOT Lake Superior. Fishing lakes close to GRAND MARAIS. I was born and raised here.

CHILDREN are FREE. I supply everything to fish. 218-3872483 www.boreal.org/gofish

MUSEUMS Explore area history with a trip to the Ely-Winton Historical Society Museum. Located at Vermillion College, 1900 East Camp Street, Ely. Open Tues.-Fri. 12 noon - 4 p.m.

For information about placing your classified ad, contact Amber at apratt@northernwilds.com

NORTHERN WILDS AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2013

A Remnant of the Forest that Was Do trees comat the Greenwood Lake municate with each Conservation Reserve, other, socialize and one of the last old help each other surgrowth forests left in vive?

Apparently North America. so, according to a An ‘’old growth forgrowing number of est’’ is defined as forest international sciecosystem dominated entists, members by old trees. White of the Society of pine old growth forests Plant Signaling and used to cover vast wilBehavior, who are derness areas in northmeeting in Vancouver

BY ELLE ANDRA-WARNER eastern U.S., Ontario this summer to talk and eastern Canada, about the newly fobut little remains of them now. cused field of plant neurobiology.

The trees, valued for their large

Strange Tales

“Plants accurately compute input from the environment, use sophisticated cost-benefit analysis and take action to mitigate diverse environmental insults,’’ reads a statement on the Society’s website.

“Plants are capable of refined recognition of self and non-self, and are territorial in behaviour.” The site describes plants as ‘’information-processing organisms, with complex long-distance communications systems within the plant and extending beyond.”

And according to biologist Susan A. Dudley, McMaster University, in a New York Times article dated Dec. 21, 2009, ‘’Plants have a secret social life.”

Reading the words reminded me of the interview I did years ago with a woman who grew up in the frontier railway town of Nakina in Northwestern Ontario. As a young girl, each day she walked two miles to and from school on a gravel country road with only trees for company. She talked with the trees; they were her friends. She said she never felt afraid because she knew the trees were protecting her.

The mysterious life of trees piqued my interest again recently after reading the book, Tree: A Life Story, by David Suzuki and Wayne Grady. By chance, around the same time, a friend gave me a package of papers he thought I’d be interested in -- coincidentally it was about trees, specifically the magnificent 325-year old white pines

size, density of grain and straightness, were harvested to make masts for sailing ships, and to build the towns and cities in eastern Canada, mid-United States and the Great Lake States.

Greenwood Forest is located about two hours west of the city of Thunder Bay and about an hour southeast of Atikokan. Quetico Provincial Park is about 16 km (10 mi) west of the area, and the Boundary Waters Canoe area in Minnesota about 25 km (15 mi) to the south. The forest reserve covers 811 ha (2,004 acres) on Crown Land that was formally designated as a Conservation Reserve in 1995; no mining or harvesting can take place on the site.

At the southern end of the reserve, the dominant white pine are at least 275-325 years old, reach more than 150 feet in height and are 3-4 feet in diameter. Old growth white pine commonly live for 200 years and can reach a maximum of about 450 years.

Visiting an old growth forest is

a surreal experience. It is awe-inspiring walking under a cathedrallike canopy of towering old trees.

When years ago I was at Vancouver Island’s Cathedral Grove of ancient Douglas-firs, it felt like I was in the presence of wisdom, though I couldn’t explain why.

Back more than 100 years ago, Russian geographer Georgy Fredorovich Morozov (1867-1919) proposed that ‘’a forest is not simply an accumulation of trees, but is itself a society, a community of trees that mutually influence each other.”

Similarly, author Wayne Grady writes in Tree: A Life Story, “Trees are communal...They have relationships and even communicate with other trees within their stands, including trees of their own kind as well as those of other species; they function for the benefit of the whole in sometimes startling ways; and they enter into mutualistic partnerships with other species – even other species so distantly related they belong to different orders.”

While the old growth forest of white pines at Greenwood are healthy and expected to be around for decades, eventually they will die off from disease, insects, age or wind and be replaced with a forest of a different species. The old growth forest will disappear.

In the meantime, volunteer-built hiking trails at Greenwood make it accessible for people to visit this community of long-lived tall white pines numbering more than 10,000 that has been around for hundreds of years.

How to Get There The Greenwood Lake forest reserve is located about two hours west of Thunder Bay, and about one hour southeast of Atikokan. Quetico Provincial Park is about 16 km (10 miles) west of the area, and the Boundary Waters Canoe area in Minnesota is about 24 km (15 miles) to the south. From Highway 11 turn south onto highway 802 just west of Kashabowie and follow signs on gravel roads for 42 km (26 miles).

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DOG LAKE R

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RV SEASONAL

CAMPGROUND

• 15-amp Power Supply • Water Hook Ups • Modern, Clean Showers • Shaded and Treed Sites • Picnic Tables • Fire Pits • Laundry, Sewage Dumpsite, Docking and Beaches all at your fingertips

5-Star Beach Front Cabin Rentals

Boat Rentals Excellent Walleye Fishing Less than an hour from Thunder Bay Only 2 1/2 hours from Grand Marais!

Open May to October

Dog Lake Resort 807-767-1809 Toll Free 1-800-466-0918

www.doglakeresort.com RR 14, Box 30, Site 12 Thunder Bay, ON

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NORTHERN WILDS AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2013

Unspoiled and Unforgettable

W

elcome to Golden Eagle Lodge, a family oriented, year round resort located on the historic Gunflint Trail of Northeastern Minnesota. We are on the north shores of Flour Lake surrounded by the Superior National Forest; as we are the only residents on the lake, you can look forward to the quiet and solitude offered only from the true wilderness setting. We offer modern, housekeeping cabins to ensure comfort during your stay in the North Woods.

Each season has something special to offer; excellent fishing and canoeing in Summer and nationallyrenowned Nordic Cross-Country Skiing in Winter.

Our 4 Seasons page will describe in detail how each season can help shape your vacation.

Try our 9-site campground which offers a quiet and personal service; each site comes equipped with water and electric hookups. We go out of our way to ensure every aspect of your visit will convince you to come back and see us again.

We know much time, effort, and expense is invested in a vacation, and we would be honored if you considered us as your vacation destination.

You won’t be disappointed!

“Quiet...Spectacular...Solitude, you’ll find it here in any season.”

800-346-2203 • 218-388-2203 · www.Golden-Eagle.com www.GunflintCamping.com · www.FlourLake.com www.GunflintCanoeing.com