Northern Wilds May 2023

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Do you have a question for one of our writers? Or an interesting photo, recipe, or story you’d like to share with Northern Wilds? Please send it to storyideas@ northernwilds.com.

Go with the Flow

While Minnesota is known as the land of 10,000 lakes, there’s actually more than 14,000 lakes, if you count lakes that cross the U.S.-Canada border (which we do, of course). There’s also a multitude of rivers, both large and small, and amazing waterfall sights, many of which are located right here on the North Shore. Did you know Minnesota’s highest waterfall is in Grand Portage State Park? Located on the Pigeon River, High Falls is 120 feet from top to bottom. With all this water surrounding us, we thought we’d whet your appetite and use it as this month’s theme. Let’s dive in…

Did you know that small aquatic insects, such as caddisflies and stoneflies, can provide us with a glimpse into the overall health of a river’s ecosystem? Kalli Hawkins interviewed David Houghton, a professor in the Biology Department at Hillsdale College in Michigan, to learn more about these fascinating aquatic invertebrates. Found in the Along the Shore section alongside Hawkins’ story, Chris Pascone writes about smelting, the “true boom or bust fish.” Scott Thorpe thanks Clarence R. Magney for his tireless efforts in establishing several state parks and wayside rests along the North Shore, including his namesake state park on the Brule River. Speaking of rivers, Elle Andra-Warner breaks down the name and history of popular North Shore rivers in her latest Strange Tales column, including the Pigeon River and Kaministiquia River.

In her latest feature story, Hawkins dives into the history and revitalization of the St. Louis River, Lake Superior’s largest U.S. tributary located in Duluth/Superior. Per Hawkins, the 192-mile-long river has functioned as the resource centerpiece for economic and industrial growth

throughout the Northland and the larger Great Lakes since the 1800s. However, it came with a substantial environmental cost, designating the river an Area of Concern in the 1980s by the Environmental Protection Agency. While great strides have been made in restoring the health of the St. Louis River, there is still much to be done.

Of course, not every story has to do with water. For our other feature story, Eric Weicht interviews Staci Lola Drouillard, author of Walking the Old Road and Seven Aunts. And in Along the Shore, Weicht covers the 55th annual North American Moose Conference and Workshop, held in Grand Portage May 22-26. The NAMCW is hosted in a different location each year, and was last held in Grand Portage in 1999. Last but not least, if you have a sweet tooth like me, you’ll want to check out Virginia George’s latest North Shore Dish column, where she covers a few of the best candy and chocolate locations in the Northland.

May is Minnesota fishing opener and Northern Trails columnist Gord Ellis has us covered with tips on small river trout fishing. While you’re out fishing and exploring the woods, be sure to respect the boundaries of wildlife, especially babies. Jon R. Remus reminds us that many animal species leave their young unattended for long periods of time, so don’t always assume that the young animal is injured or orphaned.

Here’s hoping for many sunny, bug-free days this month, perfect for fishing, hiking and exploring.

Plan Your Adventure

A comprehensive guide to the lighthouses and navigational beacons from Duluth, Minnesota to Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario. Learn about the storms and shipwrecks that led to their construction, the lonely lives of the keepers and the role lighthouses play in present-day maritime navigation. $22.95

From wilderness waters teeming with trophy walleyes to secluded ponds stocked with brook trout, this guide contains data about fish populations and access for 366 lakes. Contour maps for 68 popular fishing lakes are included. $14.95

This best-selling guide will lead you to Minnesota’s best backroad destinations. Stunning photographs of Minnesota’s varied landscape are accompanied by informative narrative that leads the reader to the best scenery, parks, refuges, and historic sites. $24.95

Veteran long-distance hiker Annie Nelson compiled the information and advice you need for a successful thruhike adventure on the 310mile Superior Hiking Trail.

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Join the authors on the trails that lead to the magnificent waterfalls of Lake Superior’s North Shore. Maps and directions to over 150 waterfalls are included in this unique guide. $19.95

Rock paintings, called pictographs, were created by Indigenous people. This book contains a description of every known pictograph site in the Boundary Waters and Quetico, complete with maps and directions to find them.

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s h o p. n o r t h e r n w i l d s .c o m
W a r m w e a t h e r a p p r o a c h e s .
The Historic Beacons of Minnesota, Isle Royale and Ontario By EllE AndrA-WArn r lighthousEs of Lake Superior’s North Shore Lizz Lake Inlet Inlet fishing. From wilderness waters teeming stocked with brook trout, this county Lake trout, smallmouth bass, walleyes, northern pike, black crappies, yellow perch, whitefish, muskies and stream trout swim in the county’s lakes. This book tells you where to find them. Where the Fish Are! Cook County, about the fish species and population status, 68 popular fishing lakes are included. “Inside this book, endless fishing adventures await.” Where do you start? Right here. So many lakes…so little time to fish. A guide to over 350 fishing lakes Includes 68 depth contour maps CATCH: LAKERS, BASS AND MORE Northern Wilds Media, Inc. Grand Marais publishes available at dozens North Shore locations from Where the Fish Are! Cook County, Minnesota THE PLANNING, RESUPPLYING, SAFETY, BEARS, BUGS, AND MORE BY ANNIE NELSON ThruHike Superior Hiking Trail SECOND EDITION

MAY 2023

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Elle Andra-Warner, Gord Ellis, Virginia George, Kalli Hawkins, Deane Morrison, Chris Pascone, Rae Poynter, Jon R. Remus, Joe Shead, Scott Thorpe, Eric Weicht, Nate White, Sam Zimmerman

Copyright 2023

by Northern Wilds Media, Inc.

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Respecting wildlife’s boundaries

NORTH SHORE—Although it’s with heartfelt human compassion to be drawn towards the sight of a lone deer fawn, bear cub or moose calf; the opposite holds true from the wildlife’s perspective. Assuming that a young animal has been abandoned is rarely the actual case. Many animal species will leave their young unattended for long periods of time.

For example, a doe will not stand over its fawn and advertise its location—rather, it stays in the outlying vicinity to draw the attention of all would-be predators away from the fawn. Since a fawn is born without scent, its main survival strategy is to keep motionless and silent until the doe returns, several hours or days later.

“Before moving an animal, always call us first to triage its condition,” says Brittney Yohannes, communications director at Wildlife Rehabilitation Center of Minnesota in Roseville. During a fawn’s initial four to six weeks of life, it’s “parked” by its mother, meaning it stays in one spot. If you come across this, give it distance and especially keep your dog away from causing it any undue stress.

A healthy fawn should be in a curled-up position with its ears upright and slightly trembling. If it is stretched out or laying on its side and the ears are wilted, then it’s dehydrated and needs urgent care.

Many animal species will leave their young unattended for long periods of time.

The Wildlife Rehabilitation Center of Minnesota requires the animal to be from the central or southern part of the state. “Because of chronic wasting disease, we don’t want to relocate animals from long distances and risk an outbreak into a healthy herd,” says Yohannes. To reach out to the facility, visit: wrcmn.org.

Servicing the northern region is Wildwoods Wildlife Rehabilitation Center of Duluth (wildwoodsrehab.org). Nursery manager Valerie Slocum advises, “don’t remove newborns” as the mother will likely return. However, if a fawn is bawling, wandering aimlessly, injured, or sprawled out and covered in flies, then it needs quick intervention.

When it comes to black bears, a mother will usher her cubs up a large “sanctuary tree” to act as a babysitter, while she seeks new food sources. At times, a mischievous cub will climb down, giving the appearance of being alone, when it’s just awaiting the return of the sow.

An example of unintentional interference occurred on August 14, 2015. A bear cub was spotted up a tree in downtown Grand Marais and was soon surrounded by hundreds of fascinated onlookers. Despite the best efforts of the sheriff’s department and DNR, several capture attempts failed to wrangle in the cub for rehabilitation. The overcrowded streets made the chase very one-sided for the agile youngster. Sadly, the panicked cub retreated into Lake Superior, where it even-

tually succumbed to exhaustion. According to Sheriff Pat Eliasen, had people left the cub alone, it might have survived.

According to Dr. Lynn Rogers, founder and principal biologist of the North American Bear Center in Ely (bear.org), a first-year cub can probably survive on its own at seven months. Prior to that, it’s mostly reliant on its mother’s milk. A young bear entering its second year is much more independent and will be chased away as the sow resumes its breeding cycle.

Moose calves rarely leave their mother’s side. For days after birth in early May, they are unable to flee on wobbly legs, so they lay still. On the rare occasion that their mother is killed by a vehicle, for example, the calf will need assistance. Moose do not accept human food and will usually run shortly after seeing a vehicle pull over to the side of the road. They frequent the ditches in spring to eat new growth and mud laden with rich minerals.

When it comes to encountering wildlife, here are the recommended guidelines to follow:

• Keep your distance—most wildlife needs a much larger “bubble” than people.

• Don’t touch, feed or capture the animal without permission from the DNR or a wildlife rehabilitation group.

• If a panicked animal is caught in a fence or has fallen into a hole, then a quick helping

hand and gentle release is okay, if it is safe to do so. Contrary to popular belief, the rescued animal will rejoin its worried parent, regardless of the human scent applied to it.

• Stay alert if you are in close contact with an animal, as critters may kick, bite, scratch or transfer ticks. Use caution.

• The best course of action in critically injured animals is to let nature take its course, or have the authorities euthanize the animal.

The Minnesota DNR pre-recorded statement is “never assume a young animal is

abandoned. Its unlawful for a citizen to take a wild animal home and rehabilitate it without a rehab license or permit.” Their credo is, “If you care, leave it there.” For more info, visit: bit.ly/orphanedwildlifemndnr.

The Ontario Ministry of Natural Resources and Forestry states that people that find bear cubs or encounter aggressive bears should call Bear Wise (1-866-514-2327) or your local district office. For more information on dealing with sick, injured or abandoned wildlife in Ontario, visit: ontario.ca/ mnrf.—Jon R. Remus

NORTHERN WILDS MAY 2023 7
Contact the DNR or a wildlife rehabilitation group if you think an animal does require assistance. | BRITTNEY YOHANNES
When it comes to encountering wildlife, keep your distance—most wildlife needs a much larger “bubble” than people. | JON R. REMUS
Many animal species will leave their young unattended for long periods of time. | BRITTNEY YOHANNES

2023 North American Moose Conference

GRAND PORTAGE—For the second time in its 55-year history, this year’s annual North American Moose Conference and Workshop (NAMCW) is set to take place in Grand Portage during the week of May 22-26.

The NAMCW is hosted in a different location each year, and was last held in Grand Portage back in 1999. The conference is an opportunity for experts in the field to come together to discuss, share, and collaborate on all-things moose—the world’s largest extant (i.e. non-extinct) species in the deer family and a symbol of boreal forests across the planet.

“As you can imagine,” says Steve Windels, a wildlife biologist at Voyageurs National Park and one of two co-directors for this year’s conference, “moose make up a very focused part of wildlife biology.”

“Moose’ range is circumboreal,” continues Windels, “meaning its territory spans boreal forests across North America, Europe, and Asia, so we typically get a mix of professionals at these events; both national and international ‘moose enthusiasts’ from anywhere that there are moose.”

The 2023 conference is being hosted by the Grand Portage Band of Lake Superior Chippewa at the Grand Portage Lodge and Casino. Seth Moore—the Director of Biology and Environment with the Grand Portage Band of Lake Superior Chippewa—is co-directing the event with Windels, serving as the conference’s “local” director/organizer.

Events at this year’s conference include a day and a half of technical presentations, a workshop on “Indigenous Co-Stewardship and Co-Management of Moose and Other Wildlife,” a fullday field trip to Grand Portage Band wildlife research field sites, and a tour of the Grand Portage National Monument.

There is also an optional pre-conference day trip out to Isle Royale that can be registered for separately on the conference’s website.

According to Windels, they are expecting a number of international attendees from Canada to participate at

the conference, with the possibility of “scientists and managers from parts of Scandinavia” taking part in the event as well. Past conferences, specifically those held in Alaska, have included attendees from as far afield as Mongolia and Russia.

“There is no organizing body coordinating the conference each year,” says Windels, “no nonprofit or for-profit organization driving this effort, which is part of what makes this event unique.”

“It’s really just a group of passionate people,” continues Windels, “coming together to share and learn about moose, carrying on a tradition of collaboration that started in the 1960s.”

The first North American Moose Conference took place in St. Paul in 1963. The conference came about as a result of the combined effort of Pat Karns and Al Elsey—well known wildlife biologists and conservationists for the Minnesota DNR and Ontario Ministry of Natural Resources, respectively.

According to an article in alcesjournal. org written by Vince Chricton entitled The Founders: A Tribute to Pat Karns and Al Elsey, the NAMCW “spawned” from a series of phone calls between the two prominent moose experts.

Elsey was a big proponent of interagency cooperation, and took initiative to set up the initial meeting with Karns across the border. After the success

of the first conference in 1963, Elsey, according to Chricton, went so far as to grant Karns a free Ontario moose hunting license to “ensure Pat’s continued interest and participation” in future conferences.

The topics covered in those initial conferences—moose population counting/estimating, the impacts of hunting, and the effects of “brainworm”—are still relevant to moose conservation today. And, as the results from the most recent Minnesota DNR aerial population survey have made clear, there is still a lot that needs to be done in order to maintain moose populations.

According to a study released by the Minnesota DNR on April 6, Minnesota’s moose population is estimated at 3,290, down from 4,700 the year prior.

That being said, the DNR argues that despite a 30 percent drop, Minnesota’s moose population “continues to reflect the population stability observed in previous years.” According to the DNR’s recent release, Minnesota’s moose population appears to have stabilized at about 3,700 animals since 2013, with annual changes reflecting relatively small and random year-toyear fluctuations in the population.

More info on the NAMCW can be found at: mooseconference2023. com.—Eric Weicht

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This year’s NAMCW is May 22-26 in Grand Portage. | ROY REA

Canadian Photographer of the Year in Atikokan

ATIKOKAN—Alan Poelman from Atikokan, Ontario has been awarded the prestigious title of “Canadian Photographer of the Year 2022” and the grand prize of $5,000 by Canadian Geographic, the magazine of the Royal Canadian Geographic Society. One of his submitted images—a lynx staring straight at the camera—has caught national media attention.

More than 6,400 photography entries were submitted from which 12 images were selected as the best in four categories: Epic Landscapes, Wildlife in Action, City Life and Weather, Seasons and Sky. This year’s judges were the magazine’s editorial and design staff, Canadian Geographic photographer-in-residence Scott Forsyth, wildlife photographer Mark Raycroft and Weather Network’s Kim MacDonald.

According to Canadian Geographic, the title of Canadian Photographer of the Year 2022 was to be awarded to a single photographer for outstanding work submitted in any category in the competition who has submitted at least three images in the competition. Judges look for a photographer who demonstrates all-around excellence in their craft.

In a Canadian Geographic news release, editor-in-chief Alexandra Pope wrote “Great photography comes down to a combination of location, timing and skill. Each of the winning images tells a compelling story and is a testament to the talent and passion of our photographic community.”

In an email, Poelman wrote, “This was the first photo competition I’ve ever entered actually. There were multiple photos that I entered and the competition was gauged on all of them, not just the lynx photo.”

For his lynx image, he used a Sony a9ii with a 200-600 mm lens. “The lynx was encountered during a spring time cruise down the backroads of Atikokan. It leaped across the road and laid nicely in the cedar trees as I took pictures of it for some time. The lynx was just an amazing encounter—not typical.”

Poelman, who is a therapist/manager at the Atikokan General Hospital, has been doing photography for several years as a hobby, and a means to unwind and be present. He

began to take photography more seriously while attending Algoma University and has spent hours practicing with the camera and watching YouTube tutorials. Today, his images have been used across Canada, including tourism boards in Ontario, Manitoba, and Saskatchewan.

While his wildlife and landscape photos have brought Poelman national recognition, he actually likes taking images of urban environments. “I think it is because I don’t often get to photograph city life that makes it appealing to me. Something fun and different.”

When I asked about his creative process, Poelman told me, “I’m not too sure really. I spend hours editing down to the slightest detail, but try to make the images as natural and vibrant as I possibly can—it’s a process that often gets overlooked.”

His advice for beginning photographers?

“The biggest tip I could give is to be analytical. Find photos that you like and try to dissect what makes them good, then use your own techniques/style and combine what you’ve learned to put into practice.”

NORTHERN WILDS MAY 2023 9
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According to Poelman, this was his first photo competition. | ALAN POELMAN Photographer Alan Poelman. | ALAN POELMAN

Aquatic insects contribute to healthy river ecosystems

NORTH SHORE—Underneath the gurgling streams and rivers along the North Shore is an expansive network of little creatures that provide a glimpse into the overall health of a river’s ecosystem.

The northeast region of Minnesota is rich in diverse habitats and wildlife species. The dense boreal forest, wetlands, and riparian zones support notable species such as moose, bears, wolves, Canada lynx, and eagles, among many others. While the more prominent species tend to steal the spotlight, the smaller aquatic invertebrates, such as caddisflies and stoneflies, underneath the water’s surface, play a valuable role in the ecological health of a region.

“They are extremely sensitive to changes in habitat conditions,” David Houghton, a professor in the Biology Department at Hillsdale College in Michigan, said. Due to the high level of sensitivity, Houghton said the species is considered a biological indicator.

Caddisflies are benthic invertebrates that scour the streambed, eating leaf droppings and phytoplankton while searching for a suitable rock, log or stick to attach to by producing silk. During the metamorphosis phase, the aquatic species builds a cocoon of sorts, called a casing, out of accumulated organic matter found in the slow-moving parts of a river or lake. Similar to stoneflies and mayflies, it relies on dissolved oxygen in the water for survival.

An increase in water temperature within a lake or river can have a devastating impact on the species, as cold water contains more dissolved oxygen. In addition, water quality issues due to acidification and pollution can harm the longevity of aquatic invertebrates.

Along the North Shore tributaries, numerous species of fish, including the native coaster brook trout, rely on the caddisfly and other aquatic insects for sustenance. “If you lose that link in the food chain, you’ve essentially just stopped the food chain,”

Houghton said. He explains that avid anglers or people passionate about fish should be aware of issues impacting this crucial link in the food chain. “There is no ecosystem without them.”

Houghton has spent his career studying aquatic insects across the Midwest, including the North Shore of Minnesota. During his dissertation work at the University of Minnesota in 2001, he was invited by Dr. David Etnier, a former professor at the university, to stay at his cabin on the Ontario side of Saganaga Lake at the end of the Gunflint Trail. Etnier and Houghton spent the week sampling caddisfly species on Saganaga Lake and nearby streams. Unfortunately, there wasn’t much time to rest as they spent the day catching lake trout to study stomach content and, by night, sampled insects using ultraviolet lights near streams and lakes.

The intense and fun week was a success. In total, Etnier and Houghton documented 120 different species of caddisflies in Minnesota and Ontario, of which, 32 of the species had yet to be discovered in Ontario. “It was truly an awesome experience,” Houghton said. “It was probably the single best week of my entire dissertation.”

In addition to documenting species on Saganaga Lake, Houghton has spent time sampling species on the Brule River and Cross River on the North Shore. There are approximately 185 species of caddisflies documented in Cook County. When comparing the arrowhead region of Minnesota to other areas across the nation, Houghton said it is “some of the most pristine and undisturbed habitats anywhere east of the Mississippi River.”

“The whole Boundary Waters area and the surrounding wilderness is some of the healthiest and most intact ecosystems left in eastern North America,” he added. “Just an amazing place.”

The Minnesota Pollution Control Agency states that 74 percent of the fully assessed

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watersheds in the arrowhead and northeast region meet water quality standards for aquatic life. While watersheds in central and southern Minnesota only meet 16 to 37 percent. Several pollutants, including phosphorus, ammonia, bacteria, nitrogen, and chloride, are the leading causes of contamination of many of Minnesota’s waterways. However, state agencies and non-profit organizations are focused on repairing and improving habitat conditions in many lakes and rivers.

The Duluth-based Gitche Gumme Chapter of Minnesota Trout Unlimited has been active in habitat improvement projects across the northern region and North Shore. In recent years they have conducted work on the Kadunce River, east of Grand Marais, including stream improvements for spawning fish and planting cedar and white pines along the riverside to prevent erosion and sediment. While the chapter has conducted a handful of habitat improvements across the northeast region in recent years, flooding during the spring of 2022 created some challenges and disruptions of projects.

While there are many uncertainties related to how climate change will impact a lake or river’s overall health, Houghton says he is

Small aquatic invertebrates, such as stoneflies [LEFT] and caddisflies [BELOW LEFT], play a valuable role in the ecological health of a region.

HELP WANTED

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more concerned about the changes associated with the hydrologic cycle. “Droughts, flooding, and groundwater changes are really difficult to predict. I think it’s going to be a problem.”

Over 20 years after his week-long dissertation experience with Etnier, Houghton shared they still keep in touch. While Etnier retired from the field in 2001, he left a lasting impression on Houghton and many in the aquatic insect ecology field. Etnier dedicated his life’s work to studying aquatic insects and helped discover over 410 species. The scientific community honored him by naming seven species after him. After his retirement, Etnier stayed involved in teaching and research. He taught classes at ChikWauk Museum and Nature Center on the Gunflint Trail in 2019 and 2020.

By sharing their research and passion for aquatic insects, Etnier and Houghton hope to inspire others to get outdoors and be curious about the diverse world underneath the water’s surfac e.—Kalli Hawkins

No ifs, ands or asterisks.

NORTHERN WILDS MAY 2023 11
Loans to deposits, as a member, you always receive our very best rates. Get in on them at northshorefcu.org/rates.
A caddisfly
larvae.
| NSF & MACROINVERTEBRATES.ORG

Thank you, Clarence

NORTH SHORE—As we all experienced, the last few years saw a significant increase in outdoor recreation as Minnesotans headed out in droves to get away from urban areas. The North Shore seemed to take the brunt of the exodus, or so it seemed. State parks and wayside rests were packed with canoers, campers, bikers, anglers, and hikers. Campgrounds were filled and the overflow set up their tents or trailers on logging roads, beaches, and even in private driveways. Parking lots were congested and traffic was bothersome. At the same time, no trespassing signs sprouted as residents reacted to the invasion. As an avid angler, I discovered new restrictions along the Brule River, the Sucker River, and Palisade Creek, where a no trespassing sign was stuck into the ditch on the Highway 61 right-of-way. Hopefully, some of this is only temporary.

Adjusting to the new restrictions made me really appreciate the state park and wayside rest system by which we, the public, have access to the rivers and waterfalls of the North Shore, including the Baptism, Split Rock, Cascade, Brule, Onion, Cross, Kadunce, Temperance, and Gooseberry rivers. Consider the effort that our forebearers went through to secure these scenic landscapes as public property, open to all. How limited would our outdoor recreation opportunities be if all these rivers were essentially private like the Manitou?

One to whom we owe a great deal of debt is Clarence R. Magney, the person responsible for many of these acquisitions and the namesake of the state park on the Brule River. Magney was originally from Pierce County in southwestern Wisconsin, in the Driftless area. After receiving an undergraduate degree from Gustavus Adolphus College in St. Peter, Minn., and then a law degree from Harvard, he moved to Duluth and fell in love with the North Shore. There he practiced law, entered politics, and was eventually elected mayor of Duluth in 1917, where he championed the expansion of the city’s park system. In 1943, he was appointed an associate justice on the Minnesota Supreme Court. While leading a very busy career, he was involved in many community activities and served on many boards. Most importantly to us, he was devoted to protecting waterfalls and scenic watersheds along the North Shore. Magney took the initiative to identify important parcels, lay out the rationale and prepare bills to the state legislature, and then use his considerable influence to assure their passage. In some cases, he even made outright land purchases in anticipation

of legislative approval. A total of 11 state parks and wayside rests are in part due to his tireless efforts.

The state park that bears his name, Judge C. R. Magney State Park, located about 14 miles northeast of Grand Marais, is one of my favorite places to fish for steelhead. The Brule River, which flows through the park, is difficult to fish. Most of the river below the upstream barrier is canyon-bound and nearly impossible to reach. During spring run-off, its generally un-wadable. It doesn’t seem to draw the numbers of steelhead that some much smaller neighboring streams do, but for sheer ruggedness and beauty, it’s awe-inspiring, even intimidating, which is why I like it.

The Ojibwe called the river Wiskode-zibi (Half-burned Wood River), which was translated by the French into Brulé, anglicized to Brule. For a brief period in the early 1970s, it was called the Arrowhead River. The watershed was heavily logged of virgin timber by the late 1890s, and second growth timber was logged just after the turn of the century for a pulp plant in Grand Marais. This section of the North Shore wasn’t developed until 1925 when Highway 61 was improved by upgrading the earlier wagon trail that extended to the Canadian border. Prior to that, most North Shore communities were accessed by boat.

After the road improvement, tourism by motor car to the North Shore boomed and resorts sprang up, such as the spectacular Naniboujou Club, situated at the mouth of the Brule. The lodge was built in 1929 for the exclusive use of its high-profile members, and the Art Deco-Cree inspired motif great hall is postcard worthy. The club was originally envisioned as a much larger enterprise than it is today, with an original lease of 3,330 acres along the Lake Superior shore, and additional acreage at McFarland Lake, 20 miles to the north. Before the club could really get off the ground, the stock market crashed which affected the fortunes of its wealthy membership and the Naniboujou went into a financial crisis and a series of ownership changes.

Fortunately, in 1934, the State of Minnesota purchased 3,000 acres from the club which is the nucleus of the park we see today. The parcel became a Civilian Conservation Corps-style camp, initially managed by the State Forestry Division, and later by the Works Progress Administration as part of a national scheme to provide employment during the Great Depression. Remnants of camp building concrete footings can be

found in the balsam thickets on the east side of the river, just downstream of the footbridge. In 1957, the park was formally established by the legislature and an additional 900 acres were purchased. Magney died in 1962 and the park was renamed after him a year later.

Was Magney an outdoorsman and angler?

I have found photos of him wading while exploring the upper Devil Track, as part of

his quest to preserve its waterfalls. He is pictured carrying a map and is not dressed for fishing. But I also found a 1950s image of him fishing the upper Baptism. He appears to be either dunking a worm or swinging a wet fly with a fly rod where some fast water enters a broad pool. It looks like a likely spot, and I really hope he caught a few brook trout. Every time I cast my fly into the Brule, I thank him for assuring me access to some beautiful fishing places.—Scott

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Devil’s Kettle Falls in Judge C.R. Magney State Park. | AUGUST SCHWERDFEGER The Brule River flows through Judge C.R. Magney State Park, located about 14 miles northeast of Grand Marais. | TONY WEBSTER Clarence R. Magney was devoted to protecting waterfalls and scenic watersheds along the North Shore. | DANIEL HASS

Lake Superior silver strike

DULUTH—Does standing in a cold, rushing river, in the pitch dark, sound attractive? How about adding a heavy wooden net with steel mesh that you swing back and forth blindly underwater? This is what thousands of people line up to do nightly for a few weeks each spring in search of the almighty (6-inch long) smelt—Lake Superior’s most sought-after fish. That’s right—this invasive species, not much longer than your finger, brings people in droves from as far away as the Twin Cities and Rochester in a maniacal search for little slivers of silver satisfaction.

So why would anyone want to expose themselves to this suffering? To the cold hands and runny noses, to sleep deprivation and a severe fishing hangover?

BOOM OR BUST

The fact is, smelt are the true boom or bust fish. You can net all night and not get a one, or you can get dozens of these wacky, wonderous silver bullets in a single dip of your net. They are the gambling man’s fish. Go more often, and your chances of hitting the boom increase. Hit it right, and you could have five, 10, even 15 gallons of smelt by morning. Then go make a royal smelt fry for the whole neighborhood.

Smelt enter North Shore rivers to spawn at about the time when river water temps hit 43 degrees F. This is your chance to catch them. The smelt “run” is not an exact science though. Just ask Tim Befera, who’s been smelting the Lester River in Duluth since 1966.

“You just have to start out early in the season. Get out there when the water’s in the low 40s, and just see what the heck they’re doing,” says Befera. “You have to think like a smelt, if you can. That’s the fun thing—they’ve got a little brain the size of a grain of sand, but they can still outsmart us.”

So, with that encouragement in mind, grab your net and give it a shot. But make sure you wait until dark—the smelt don’t run upriver until nighttime falls. Even then, the run can be hot from 11 p.m. to midnight, and then nonexistent a half hour later. Or vice versa.

COMMITMENT

The inexplicable pull of the smelt is strong. Take Kevin Makie—an investment manager from Minneapolis—who drives six hours round-trip from his home to enjoy the rhythmic dipping and dragging of his net in the Lester River. Makie has been netting at Les-

ter for the last 10 years, after first being exposed to smelting by his parents in the 1970s on the Knife River. Makie makes the trip from Minneapolis five or six times a season on average, and sometimes even comes on back-to-back nights when the run is good.

“Sometimes the first two times I come up I get skunked, or maybe I get only a dozen or two,” says Makie. “But I like 3 or 4 gallons at least to freeze, and then eat them throughout the year.” So, Makie keeps trying. He’s had some historic nights netting until 3 a.m., then heading home to Minneapolis, and going straight to work. “It’s happened that I’m coming back from smelting, and I get caught in the rush hour traffic going into Minneapolis. Then I get a couple hours of sleep before going to work. It’s not something I try to do too often when I go smelting.”

BEGINNER’S LUCK

Smelting is best done with a buddy, or two. The water is freezing cold in early May, and the heavy flows hurtling down North Shore rivers (especially this year, with 3 feet of snow in the woods still in April), can sweep you out into the lake. Make sure you’re wearing a reliable pair of chest waders. You don’t want to find out mid-river that you’ve sprung a leak. Smelting from shore is difficult to impossible, so be prepared to wade out at least a couple of feet deep.

Befera and his wife Raquel have the following advice for beginners. “Start early

enough in the season and establish yourself a little bit. My suggestion is to watch other people first, see where they’re getting them, and then move in either upstream or downstream, so you don’t disrupt them. Start talking to them. Say ‘Hi, I’m new to smelting,’ and pretty soon you’ve got yourself a friend. It takes about two minutes. Be kind. Be humble.”

Then get ready for a thrill. That feeling of euphoria when you can do no wrong. When the smelt seem to be swimming right into your net. It will happen, and you’ll feel on top of the world.

LESTER RIVER: DULUTH’S NETTING MECCA

Smelt can be netted all up and down the North Shore in late April-early May. Smelt can even be caught at the outlet of Chester Creek, right in downtown Duluth. But Befera says the Lester is the North Shore’s premiere netting grounds, thanks to its accessibility and natural beauty.

“To me, the place to be is Lester River,” he says. “You’ve got lights around (from London Road), and you can look down the lake at the Twin Ports all lit up. It’s just a beautiful setting. You can drive to it, and if you get a real active bite, where you’ve got a couple pails of smelt, you can easily carry them back to the car.”

HINTS FROM NATURE

The big question in smelting is timing. Why do smelt run so well one night, and so poorly the next? Is there a way to predict when the optimum time will be? Befera suggests reading nature for clues. “If you can find a little vernal pond close to Lake Superior, where the peepers live, they’re the best sign of all. When you can hear the peepers, get down to the lake with your smelting net.”

Finally, Befera notes that aquatic birds can clue us in to smelt behavior as well. “Often times you can see the fish-eating birds like the grebes and terns staging just offshore from the Lester River mouth. That’s a signal the smelt are getting ready to run.”

The smelt run is short, but sweet. Check out this authentic North Shore fishing culture at a river near you

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The History and Revitalization of the St. Louis River

Lake Superior, the world’s largest freshwater lake by surface area, has historically served as a transportation artery to connect people and resources within the Great Lakes region.

While numerous settlements and cities have contributed to the expansion of trade and industries on Lake Superior, the port of Duluth-Superior, at the mouth of the St. Louis River, bears the most significance. Since the early 1800s, the 192-mile-long St. Louis River has functioned as the resource centerpiece for economic and industrial growth throughout the Northland and the larger Great Lakes. However, it came with a substantial environmental cost that still lingers today.

Similar to other areas along the North Shore, commercial logging was the first industry to take hold and reshape the landscape and waterways. Logs were harvested near the St. Louis River tributary each spring and floated out to Lake Superior for milling or transportation. Shortly after, steam-powered shipping arrived on Lake Superior following the completion of the Duluth Ship Canal in 1871.

Duluth’s shipping industry focused initially on transporting grain, but by the 1890s, it was shipping millions of tons of iron ore from the Iron Range, according to the Minnesota Historical Society. At the beginning of the 20th century, the U.S. Steel Corporation built a steel plant that included iron ore and coke production facilities. The site encompasses over 700 acres of land and water surrounding Spirit Lake on the St. Louis River.

As industrialization and population growth hounded the Duluth-Superior area, the St. Louis River became the convenient source for the disposal of industrial and untreated waste. Unfortunately, a lack of regulations and sanitation facilities led to haphazard practices of dumping chemicals, toxic pollutants, heavy metals, and sewage into the tributary’s ecosystem.

Despite the growing foul odor, stained brown water, fish kills, and polluted environment, industrial and recreational use continued on the river. However, in the 1950s, a shift occurred that would change the river’s trajectory and, ultimately, Duluth’s economy.

A leader in the 1950s movement to protect the St. Louis River was Willard Munger, a business owner in Duluth whose passion for the magnificent river guided him toward a life-long path of serving in the Minnesota House of Representatives. Munger’s unwavering dedication and grassroots efforts led to Minnesota’s Legislature creating the Western Lake Superior Sanitary District (WLSSD) in 1971. Construction of the facility broke ground in 1974 and went online a few years later, in 1978.

As was the case across the nation in the early 1970s, advocates, environmentalists, sportsmen, and other interest groups banded together to rally for state and federal regulations. The environmental movement of the 1970s created the Clean Water Act in 1972, in addition to numerous other protections.

As momentum continued, the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) designated the St. Louis River as one of the 31 U.S.based Areas of Concern (AOC) in the Great Lakes region due to the immense degradation and contamination. According to the EPA, the St. Louis River is the second largest U.S.-based AOC, with over 3,600 square

miles of watershed and 1,020 square miles of land.

In order to carry out the habitat restoration and site cleanup work, the EPA required the involvement and formation of a citizen’s group. In 1987, the St. Louis River Citizens Action Committee was established to help guide remedial action plans with agencies and engage the public.

“That was our beginning,” Kris Eilers, the St. Louis River Alliance executive director, said. After that, the committee evolved into what is now recognizably known as the St. Louis River Alliance. “It’s really a grassroots movement to a grassroots citizens group.”

“Ever since then, we’ve been working with the state and state agencies on both sides of the river,” Eilers said. “We’ve continued to work on the Area of Concern.”

While Eilers has been with the non-profit organization for 12 years, her connection to the St. Louis River and the greater Lake Superior derives from visiting the Duluth-Superior area during her childhood. “I saw the pollution happening. And it put something in my heart back then.”

16 MAY 2023 NORTHERN WILDS
The St. Louis River Estuary has sustained Duluth’s economy, carved out a culture of stewardship and environmentalism, and has remained a point of connection for people and species that are lucky to call it home. | ST. LOUIS RIVER ALLIANCE

After moving to Duluth in 2010, Eilers found herself at the center of the restoration work on the St. Louis River. “I still kind of pinch myself sometimes that something that was instilled in me when I was a kid is what I’m getting to do now.” To Eilers, the St. Louis River is now a place “of hope and rebirth.”

Following environmental protections on the St. Louis River in the 1970s and 1980s, the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources, the Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources, and researchers at the University of Minnesota Duluth began studying the expansive ecosystem within the 12,000-acre St. Louis River Estuary, at the confluence of the St. Louis River with Lake Superior. The estuary includes numerous bays, wetlands, forested areas, and sandy beaches that provide habitat for fish, amphibians, birds, and countless other species.

One of the leading researchers involved in collecting a comprehensive inventory of bird species within the estuary was Jerry Niemi, a professor emeritus from the Department of Biology at the University of Minnesota Duluth. Niemi said the overall results of the bird inventory were incredible.

After years of research and thousands of hours spent behind binoculars, 302 bird species have been identified within the St. Louis River Estuary system. On an annual basis, 238 bird species use the estuary and Minnesota Point, the 7-mile-long sandbar in the Park Point neighborhood, for bird migration, nesting, and habitat use.

“You can’t find too many places in the state where you’d have that many species observed,” Niemi said. “From a migratory standpoint, the estuary has outstanding numbers of waterfowl, shorebirds, songbirds, etc., migrating to the area.” As a result, the St. Louis River Estuary, in association with adjacent Minnesota Point, is among Minnesota’s best and most popular sites for bird watching. Birders can enjoy viewing marsh wren, alder flycatchers, common terns, green heron, American bittern, and numerous migrating raptors and waterfowl.

While the vast estuary system has a diverse collection of bird species, a certain shorebird, the piping plover, has been the focus for researchers and state agencies. Since the 1970s, populations of the small white and gray shorebird have declined, leading to the species being listed on the endangered species list. “They have not been seen for at least 20 odd years,” Niemi said. Although significant progress has been made in improving habitat within the estuary, Niemi said he thinks the increase in human activity, especially in the sandy cobble beach areas where piping plovers nest, contributes to the species’ decline. “It’s sad to know it’s not here anymore.”

Niemi’s work on the St. Louis River Estuary has been instrumental in identifying the significance of the region. In 2011, Niemi and a colleague Janet Green nominated the St. Louis River Estuary and Minnesota Point as an Important Bird Area (IBA) with the Audubon Society. Although Niemi retired in 2019, he remains active within the St. Louis River birding community. Looking towards the future, Niemi said, “I think there are some wonderful efforts that have

taken place over the last number of years in terms of restoration of habitats.” He added, “I’d say right now, it’s been a huge improvement and a very optimistic future for the St. Louis River.”

The optimism and hope that Eilers and Niemi have for the future of the St. Louis River are also shared by Dan Wilfond, the fisheries specialist with the Minnesota DNR. Wilfond works closely with the sturgeon recovery efforts in the St. Louis River. Sturgeon are a native species to the river system but were extirpated in the early 1900s due to habitat alteration, the creation of the hydropower Fond du Lac Dam that impeded historic spawning grounds, water pollution, and over-harvesting of the species. “All of that combined led to the demise of the lake sturgeon in the St. Louis River,” Wilfond said.

After the establishment of the Clean Water Act and the WLSSD in the 1970s, Wilfond said, “we did start to see some recovery of the system.” However, the recovery was slow, so from 1983 to 2000, the DNR stocked 13-year classes of the historic sturgeon species into the river system.

Sturgeons have a unique life cycle and can live to be 100 years old. Due to their long lifespan, the males don’t reach sexual maturity until 12 to 15 years of age, while females take a bit longer and don’t reach maturity until 20 to 25. “It adds a tremendous amount of management challenges,” Wilfond said. “This is a large game of patience.”

The DNR’s patience paid off in the mid2000s when the DNR encountered the reintroduced tagged fish returning to the spawning grounds in the river. In 2011, officials caught the first naturally reproduced sturgeon fry in the St. Louis River since extirpation in the early 1900s. “That was a really positive sign. Everybody was excited to see that,” Wilfond said.

While plenty of work is yet to be done to restore the sturgeon in the St. Louis River fully, the DNR has made considerable progress in the past 40 years. Other fish species, such as smallmouth bass, muskellunge, and walleye, have been shown to rebound in the St. Louis River. Wilfond said the tributary is now a sought-after destination fishery for anglers. “By no means have we gotten this thing back to its previous condition, but we’re well on our way, and things are looking very good,” Wilfond said.

“It’s incredibly rewarding to see a system that was so heavily impacted, have so many different project collaborators working towards a common goal of restoring a sustainable and healthy estuary,” Wilfond said. “I think everyone should be proud.”

The St. Louis River Estuary has sustained Duluth’s economy, carved out a culture of stewardship and environmentalism, and has remained a point of connection for people and species that are lucky to call it home.

“We believe that it’s really important for us to help try to connect people back to the river so that they can reestablish or build a relationship with the river,” Eilers said. “That’s how people learn to take care of it.”

In the 1980s, the Environmental Protection Agency designated the St. Louis River as one of the 31 U.S.-based Areas of Concern in the Great Lakes region due to the immense degradation and contamination.

NORTHERN WILDS MAY 2023 17
Similar to other areas on the North Shore, commercial logging was the first industry to take hold and reshape the landscape and waterways. Logs were harvested near the St. Louis River tributary each spring and floated out to Lake Superior for milling or transportation. | MINNESOTA DIGITAL LIBRARY While plenty of work is yet to be done to fully restore sturgeon in the St. Louis River, the DNR has made considerable progress in the past 40 years. | MINNESOTA DNR

Author Staci Lola Drouillard Sharing Stories of the Anishinaabe

On the North Shore, stories lend meaning to an otherwise indifferent landscape. They have the power to shape not only our understanding of the past, but also the ways in which we define the present and anticipate the future. In a word, stories matter.

Take the view from Shovel Point at Tettegouche State Park, for instance. The perspective of those lichen-painted cliffs changes depending on the narrative that they are fit into.

Is the story we tell of the cliffs and surrounding water that of the most recent ice age whose glaciers gave shape to the landscape and melted to create the greatest of the Great Lakes? Or is it of the mile wide “rafts” of lumber that were once visible on the horizon as they moved across the Big Lake to the sawmills on the South Shore? Or, perhaps, is it of the Anishinaabe and their birchbark canoes as they utilized the unpredictable waters of Lake Superior below to stay connected with one another and grow as a culture, as a community?

The stories that have dominated the narrative on the North Shore are the stories of its European settlers—the fisherman, farmers, fur traders, loggers, and miners that carved out a livelihood along the shores of Lake Superior, founding towns that continue to bear their names to this day. These histories are important in understanding the past, in understanding the culture of this beautiful place, but they are not the whole story.

The Ojibwe/Anishinaabe called the North Shore home centuries before the arrival of the first Euro-

peans, and for Cook County resident and direct descendent of the Grand Portage Band of Ojibwe Staci Lola Drouillard, sharing the stories of her family and those of the Anishinaabe who inhabit the North Shore is at the heart of her work as a writer.

“I had always wanted [Ojibwe] history to be more widely known,” says Drouillard, “and I felt like there needed to be more balance in the realm of local history around Grand Marais. When I started researching other written materials for my first book, Walking the Old Road, almost none of it was from the Anishinaabe or Indigenous perspective, it was pretty much all written by white people.”

“I don’t want to say that it was a lost history,” continues Drouillard, “because it was remembered, and things that are remembered are not lost, but it was a history that was unknown to me until I started talking to people about it and asking them questions.”

To date, Drouillard has written two books that engage with her family history and Indigenous past— Walking the Old Road: A People’s History of Chippewa City and the Grand Marais Anishinaabe that was published in December of 2019, and Seven Aunts, a memoir of sorts that came out last June.

Walking the Old Road—which won the Hamlin Garland Prize in Popular History, the Northeastern Minnesota Book award for nonfiction, and was a finalist for a Minnesota Book Award—tells the story of Chippewa City, or Nishkwakwansing as it was once known, through interviews with those who re-

member it. There was a time when Chippewa City, once located about a mile east of downtown Grand Marais, was an Indigenous community of some 200 Anishinaabe families. However, today, all that is left from the village is the St. Francis Xavier Church.

“A lot of [Walking the Old Road ] is interview and academic research based,” says Drouillard, “but then, I also wrote myself into the story as a way to help people navigate through it.”

“I put myself and my family story into the book as it relates to Chippewa City,” continues Drouillard, “because, in a lot of ways, what I was doing was uncovering the history of my great-grandmother, Elizabeth Anakwad.”

Drouillard wrote her second book—Seven Aunts, which was nominated for a 2023 Minnesota Book award for Memoir and Creative Nonfiction—over the course of a single year during the isolation of Covid, a writing experience that she describes as “intense and emotional.”

“Seven Aunts began as a writing exercise about my aunt Lila,” says Drouillard. “My aunt Lila, who is chapter two of the book, was instrumental in a lot of ways. As I wrote about her, I realized that I had deep connections to all seven of my ‘aunties,’ so I decided to make it my mission to learn more about their lives and turn it into a book.”

“Writing during Covid was a weird experience,” continues Drouillard, “because of the isolation, the dread, and the elements of fear and uncertainty that

18 MAY 2023 NORTHERN WILDS
Born at the Grand Marais hospital in the late 1960s, Staci Lola Drouillard has called Kitchibitobig, i.e. Grand Marais, home for most of her adult life. | CATHY QUINN

came with it. I wonder now if it helped me be more empathetic to the stories of my aunties that I tell in the book. But regardless, it was an intense, emotional experience to write about those women.”

Drouillard was born at the Grand Marais hospital in the late 1960s, and has called Kitchibitobig, i.e. Grand Marais, home for most of her adult life. Her father is a Grand Portage Band member whose family history is rooted in the story of Chippewa City—a family history that spans generations—while her mother’s family is of German descent.

“My grandmother, Elizabeth Anakwad, was born in the village of Chippewa City in 1865,” says Drouillard, “back when the Anakwad family, which means ‘cloud’ in Ojibwe, were one of the families that made up Chippewa City.”

After graduating from Cook County High in 1985, Drouillard moved to Minneapolis to pursue a degree at an “Art School,” but dropped out and instead gradually worked her way to completing a bachelor’s degree at the University of Minnesota Twin Cities.

“I had to work the whole time and take a lot of night classes,” says Drouillard, “I didn’t really have the luxury of being a full-time student, but I was able to work a job at the university so that I didn’t have to pay full tuition.”

Drouillard worked at the U of MN for several years for a department within the UMN medical school called “The Center of American Indian and Minority Health [CAIMH]” that, according to Drouillard, “worked with kids interested in health care fields, as well as providing resources for native medical students.” The CAIMH had a sister office at UMD and Drouillard transferred there in 1999. Her time at UMD was also spent finishing up her thesis that would one day become her first book, Walking the Old Road

“I worked on Walking the Old Road for many, many years before it became a book,” says Drouillard.

“I did the very first interview with George Morrison back in 1987,” continues Drouillard, “and then while working on my graduate thesis at UMD, I decided to make the Chippewa City story part of my thesis work, which is when I started doing interviews with elders and family members that had a connection to the place. I mostly finished the thesis around 2001, but then it just sort of ‘sat in a tote bag along with the interview tapes’ for a long, long time.”

Drouillard moved back to Grand Marais in 2002,

where she took a job working for the artist Betsy Bowen, first as her assistant and then as the manager of her gallery for several years. After that, Drouillard became a baker, owning and operating Lola’s Bakery for 10 years.

“Baking on that scale was exhausting work,” says Drouillard, “and there was nothing left for writing during those 10 years of my life. I never stopped thinking about my writing, though, or about Walking the Old Road.”

“I actually solved a lot of my writing ‘problems’ while making carrot cake or gigantic batches of cheesecake,” continues Drouillard. “After you’ve made a hundred batches of cheesecake you don’t have to think about it much and your brain, if not your body, is very available to think about other things.”

Now, with two books published and a third “children’s story” entitled A Family Tree set to be released in May 2024, Drouillard works as a radio producer at WTIP Community Radio in Grand Marais, and writes the monthly column Nibi Chronicles for Great Lakes Now, a branch of Detroit Public Media.

For further information on Staci Lola Drouillard and her work as a writer, the best thing to do is to read her books.

“My story,” says Drouillard, “is all in the books— writing is my best form of communication.”

Books

by Drouillard

Staci Lola Drouillard is the author of Walking the Old Road: A People’s History of Chippewa City and the Grand Marais Anishinaabe, and Seven Aunts. Both books were published by the University of Minnesota Press and can be found in local bookstores.

NORTHERN WILDS MAY 2023 19
Drouillard’s First Grade photo at Sawtooth Elementary School in Grand Marais. | SUBMITTED Drouillard’s great grandma Elizabeth Anakwad and great uncle Bill Drouillard at Chippewa City. | SUBMITTED Drouillard’s aunt Lila (Burge) Garner in Warba, Minn. Lila is chapter two of Drouillard’s book, Seven Aunts. | SUBMITTED

Johnson Spring Craft Revival

Shop from over 150 artisans in over 20 locations at the annual Spring Craft Revival, held Sunday, May 7 in the Waterfront District and Prince Arthur’s Landing in Thunder Bay. This fun event takes place from 10 a.m.-4 p.m. and will also feature live music and entertainment. For more info, see our events section.

Fin and Oak owner Finley Maunula creates nature inspired stained glass art, such as these paw memorial pieces with pressed fur. You can view more from Maunula at: linktr.ee/ finandoak.

Cartographer Brian Randall of Stakd Birch creates wooden bathymetric/lake depth maps, such as this Lake Superior piece. All maps are made from baltic birch, are hand-painted, and framed using locally harvested hardwood from northwestern Ontario. Learn more at: facebook.com/ stakdbirch.

20 MAY 2023 NORTHERN WILDS
“Of a Feather,” by Raeghan Howard Judge of Lake Superior Mermade, was created with Lake Superior beach glass, pottery, and driftwood. See more from Howard Judge at: facebook.com/thefamilystoneart. | RAEGHAN HOWARD JUDGE Thunder Bay resident Vik Wilen is the artist behind this acrylic painting, titled “Caribou Island.” She is a self-taught artist inspired by the Canadian landscape and Lake Superior. To see more from Wilen, visit: vikwilen.com. | VIK WILEN Yupcycler owner Ashley Goodlad upcycles VHS covers into reusable, refillable notebooks. She also turns the leftover spine piece into bookmarks. To learn more, visit: facebook.com/theyupcycler. Superior Baits owners Shawna Peremesko and Andrew Start create handcrafted jigs and lures from raw materials, such as these roundhead jigs. Located in Nipigon, their stuff can be found at various locations in the Thunder Bay area. For more, visit: superior-baits.com.

Dee Closson

Up North Leather Craft

CREATIVE SPACE: By Rae Poynter

Sometimes, new beginnings happen in unexpected ways. For Dee Closson of Hovland, her journey as a leather crafter began with her other passion: horses. Now the owner of Up North Leather Craft, Closson creates beautiful leather products from purses to moose ornaments, a passion that works in synergy with her love for horses.

Although Dee Closson never planned to be an artist, she’s no stranger to leatherworking. In fact, she grew up in a family of leatherworkers: her mother did leather tooling while her father made horse saddles. For years, leather crafting was something she dabbled in, while horses were her primary passion. However, that all changed in 2021 when she got serious about leatherworking; a passion for the craft started to blossom, and shortly after that Up North Leather Craft was born.

“My goal in starting the business was that I wanted to have something to help pay for my entry fees because I’m a competitive dressage rider,” Closson said.

It was then that Closson turned to the craft that had long been part of her family’s life. She spent a whole winter making handcrafted journals with leather covers, and brought them to Joy & Company in Grand Marais to see if they might be interested in selling them.

“They were interested, and that started it all,” she said. “I had no intention of becoming a business, but here I am. I love that I can do a craft that I love and that supports my other addiction, which is my horses.”

Closson’s creative process starts with the raw materials. She sources whole cow hides

and cuts the hides down to the size needed for her current project. She then stamps, carves, and paints the leather, taking inspiration from nature and her surroundings deep in the woods.

“I do all my sewing by hand, and use absolutely no machines,” Closson said. “We live remotely and off the grid, so I didn’t want any more machines that would be another load on our solar.”

Given that, Closson works in small batches and focuses on quality over quantity, using the quieter winter months to build up inventory for the busy summer season. (She estimates that one journal takes 36-40 hours

to create.) In addition to journals, she also makes other products such as purses, bracelets, dog leashes, and her bestselling product: moose ornaments made out of scrap pieces of leather. As a completely self-taught artist, Closson likes to experiment with creating her own designs and letting her inspiration be her guide.

I had and then decided to sell my stuff. Realizing that people actually wanted to buy my stuff was really cool. I’m really grateful and get a lot of joy out of this.”

In addition to Joy & Company, Dee Closson also has some of her products at the Blue Moose, Johnson Heritage Post, and at the

Closson’s creative process starts with the raw materials.

“I sometimes use templates for my designs, but I always end up modifying them for the next product, so I have yet to create anything that’s the same thing as last time. Everything is unique, and I like to keep everything fresh,” she said.

Although Closson had long dabbled in leather crafting, the process of starting her business happened relatively quickly. And as anyone who has started a business knows, it takes courage to make that first leap.

“When I first went to Joy & Company I was terrified,” she said. “But they were so supportive and they were willing to see what

seasonal Cook County Market. She also has an Etsy shop, UpNorthLeatherCraft.

“My favorite thing is the fact that people are interested and like my products—I’m still in shock about that and it makes me feel so good,” Closson said. “Hearing from people and making things that make people happy is a really neat feeling.”

NORTHERN WILDS MAY 2023 21
Hovland artisan Dee Closson’s bestselling products are moose ornaments made from scrap pieces of leather. | DEE CLOSSON In addition to journals, Closson also makes purses, bracelets, dog leashes, and more. As a completely self-taught artist, Closson likes to experiment with creating her own designs and letting her inspiration be her guide. DEE CLOSSON Dee Closson’s journey as a leather crafter began with her passion for horses. | DEE CLOSSON

Centered Woodworking

Behind the Craft: By Nate White

In the past two months, between Wood Week and a trip I took through the Artisan Development Program at North House Folk School, I was able to spend time with some notable woodworkers and learn not only technical skills, but also new approaches to woodworking.

In February I was in Jonesborough, Tenn., working with chairmaker Curtis Buchanan. He guided me on making his design for the democratic armchair as he tested out new plans for a settee version. The democratic armchair is a simple Windsor chair that we predominantly used hand tools to make. Its name is a nod to the late Bill Coperthwaite, an academic who coined the term “democratic tools.” Despite having a PHD from Harvard, Coperthwaite believed in living simply and spent a lot of his life studying nomadic tool use. He was opposed to overly complicated or hyper specific tools that lessened people’s agency to build or create things, or tools that would “tie you to a workbench.” With Buchanan’s chair, he emphasized that you can do much of the shaping with just a drawknife—he really tries to use the smallest amount of the simplest, cheapest tools possible. I was drawn to making the chair because Buchanan does a remarkable job of combining curves and facets with great resolution where they meet. The seat and arms are quite sculptural, while the other pieces—the spindles, legs, stretchers, and posts—are all octagonal, with subtle arcs and tapers. It was a valuable experience to work with Buchanan and I’m extremely grateful for it; finding someone to work with

one-on-one like that is rare, especially someone as accomplished as him.

Chairmaking has always been something that I found equally interesting as it is daunting. Learning certain technical aspects of each process was great, but one thing that really stuck with me was more about general approach and practice. When we were working on the arms, Buchanan brought up how he approached making his chairs. He said that he tries to avoid thinking of the pieces as things that he needs to get done. Instead, he tries to focus on each individual cut. Sure, he had to keep track of how many spindles he had left to make, but instead of rushing through each one, he would try and block out how many he had left, or what time it was, and try to be very intentional with each pull of his drawknife—each cut as important as each piece. Using this approach has kept me centered and lets me achieve a better focus on my work.

Wood Week just wrapped up at North House and as a part of that, I assisted with Kenneth Kortemier’s class on tramp art. Kortemier is a longtime friend and mentor of mine, and was an instructor at the Carpenter’s Boat Shop, a wooden boat shop in Maine, where I got my first introduction to woodworking in 2011. Tramp art is a bit of a misnomer, but it is an American folk art that started around the Great Depression, fading out of practice in the 1970s. It was predominantly found in areas with high immigrant populations from northern Europe, so it can pop up quite regularly at flea markets and

estate sales in the Midwest. There are two major forms, one is a type of notching on the edges of thinly cut stock, that then gets layers on top of each other. The layers get reduced in size equal to the thickness of the material, which gives it a pyramid effect. The stock was typically made from discarded cigar boxes, which were quite common during the Civil War and onwards. The forms borrow heavily from Finnish-style birch boxes, of which Kortemier brought an example of that was made by his Finnish grandfather. Tramp art was made predominantly by the proletariat with what was in cheap (or free) abundance around them. Birch trees/bark, which would have been plentiful in rural Scandinavia, were replaced by cigar boxes and fruit crates of American cities. Most of the time, people used this technique to decorate other cigar boxes and they were often used to house personal treasures, or use as sewing boxes.

In Kortemier’s class, next to a diagram he had on the chalkboard, he had written, “Each cut as its own cut.” The cuts themselves are quite easy to do; just a series of small notched 45-degree cuts on the edge. The challenge is similar to knitting—first you work on a row, then as those rows stack up, they may form a sleeve, then another sleeve, and by the end of your project you have a sweater. I found the approach similar

to Buchanan’s, being very intentional and focused on each smaller, simple movement and having that all add up into a complex final product.

Later at Wood Week, during a presentation by Barn Carder, he asked everyone about their craft practice. Kortemier elaborated about his technique and approach, saying that he had adapted it from his yoga practice. That when he’s in his shop or working on a project, he is also trying to break each process down into its simplest, smallest steps so he can put more intention into each one of them. It is an interesting idea, because I think a lot of people assume that once you master something, when it becomes rote, that it’s no longer a challenge; that you can go into “auto-pilot.” But one thing Buchanan emphasized was that after 40 years of making chairs, they still challenge him, and that’s why he’s been able to do it for so long. If there wasn’t a challenge, it would be mindless, tedious and something you dread. I find this similar to fishing. If you are zoning out and daydreaming, you’re probably going to miss bites. I think there is a specific place you need to enter in your mind where you are completely present in the moment of what you are doing, while also letting your tools become an extension of your hands, letting your experience guide you.

22 MAY 2023 NORTHERN WILDS
Nate White is a resident artisan, focused on woodworking, at the North House Folk School in Grand Marais. | SUBMITTED
NORTHERN WILDS MAY 2023 23 Experience a World Beyond Grand Marais with the Best Views on the North Shore grandportage.com Make a plan for Minnesota’s fishing opener. Find water access maps and guides at LAND A TROPHY VISITCOOKCOUNTY.COM

HISTORICAL PARK FORT WILLIAM

Paid for by the Government of Ontario

HOMEGROWN MUSIC FESTIVAL

April 30-May 7 The Homegrown Music Festival is an annual community celebration of the original and diverse music of Duluth and its surrounding communities. What started in 1999 with 10 acts has grown into an eight-day community-wide local music, arts and cultural extravaganza. This year’s festival will feature 171 acts across 36 venues, including performances by Black River Revue, The Spin Collective, Woodblind, Steve’s Overpopulated One-man Band, Dance Attic, and more. There will also be a poetry showcase, a beer scavenger hunt, a kickball game, and more. facebook.com/ duluthhomegrown

FOLKLORE FESTIVAL

May 6-7 Travel the world in 48 hours at the 50th Anniversary Folklore Festival, held at Fort William Gardens in Thunder Bay. Presented by the Thunder Bay Multicultural Association, there will be tantalizing international foods, imported wines and beers, incredible entertainment, “shop-theworld” booths, a free activity-packed children’s area, exhibits and displays, and local artisans onsite. Don’t miss Saturday night’s feature entertainers; The Chain will bring blues, soul, and rock to the main stage, taking visitors on a journey across North America. The festival will take place from noon to 11 p.m. on Saturday and noon to 7 p.m. on Sunday. Admission is $5 for adults, $3 for students/seniors, and $1 for children ages 4 to 12—kids under 4 are free. folklorefestival.ca

SPRING CRAFT REVIVAL

May 7, Sunday The annual Spring Craft Revival, held in the Waterfront District and Prince Arthur’s Landing in Thunder Bay, will feature more than 150 artisans in over 20 locations, live music and performances, activities for the littles at the Waverley Library, and more. You’ll find items to suit any style,

from home décor, clothing, and jewelry, to baked goods, photography, paintings, and more. Held from 10 a.m.-4 p.m., this is a family-friendly event you won’t want to miss. craftrevival.ca

COOK COUNTY YMCA DANCE RECITAL: STARRY NIGHT

May 11-13 Over 90 dancers of all ages will perform in the 7th annual Cook County YMCA dance performance, titled Starry Night. The recital features ballet, tap and jazz dances, choreographed by Christine Curtis, Breana Johnson and Lenna Stever. The recital will be held at 7 p.m. (6 p.m. Thursday) at the Arrowhead Center for the Arts in Grand Marais. Tickets are $14 for adults and $7 for youth. Tickets can be purchased online in advance or at the door. facebook.com/cookcountycommunityymca

SUPERIOR SPRING TRAIL RACES

May 20, Saturday Located in Lutsen, the Superior Spring Trail Races traverse the Sawtooth Mountain Range on the Superior Hiking Trail. Runners will face extremely hilly, rugged terrain, crossing rivers and streams through the boreal forests. Courses include a 50km starting at 7 a.m., a 25km at 8 a.m., and a 12.5km at 9 a.m. The 25km and 50km start and finish at Caribou Highlands Lodge, and the 12.5km is pointto-point, finishing at Caribou Highlands Lodge. Aid stations are provided for the 25km and 50km races, and spectators are welcome. Race registration required. superiorspringtrailrace.com

Up to 800 gravel grinders will take to unpaved routes on fat-tire bikes with the Le Grand Du Nord races on Saturday, May 27 in Grand Marais. | SUBMITTED The Folklore Festival in Thunder Bay is celebrating its 50th anniversary this year, May 6-7. | SUBMITTED | CARY JOHNSON

Crafts Music -Fun!

for the Grove 2023 Gala Roaring 20's Roaring 20's

Saturday, June 10th

Join us for this years themed event, The Roaring 20's, in support of Birch Grove Community School

5:00 p.m. Champagne Social

6:00 p.m. Fine Dinner and Wine

7:30 p.m. Live Auction & Raffle Music & Dancing to follow.

You won't want to miss it!

Individual tickets and sponsorships available. For tickets call the school office at 218-663-0170 or visit our website at birchgroveschool. com/events/galaforthegrove for a downloadable invitation/order form.

Birch Grove Community School is a 501 c3 nonprofit.

Theatre

The 2023 10x10 Short Play Festival

June 9 & 10, 2023

For Tickets: magnustheatre.com 807.345.5552

GREEN DOOR SMELT FRY

May 20, Saturday Hear ye, hear ye! The historic Green Door Smelt Fry returns to Beaver Bay, featuring all-you-can-eat fried smelt using the original Green Door recipe dating back to the first smelt fry hosted by the Beaver Bay Fire Department in 1958, along with a basket of tartar sauce, coleslaw, potato chips, and that classic carton of orange drink. Fried smelt will be served from 11 a.m.-3 p.m., followed by barbecue from Baptism River Barbecue Co. through dinner. This family-friendly event will also include live music all day on an outdoor stage, an inflatable bouncy castle and obstacle course for kids, raffles, drawings, prizes, a silent auction, and beverage samples from Knob Creek. Tickets for the Green Door Smelt Fry are $10 and available

for presale from the Green Door, Timber Coffee in Silver Bay, or the Finland Coop. Tickets are not required to attend the event, but are required for the all-you-caneat smelt. There will be designated parking throughout Beaver Bay with rides provided by Silver Bay Shuttle Service and a drop-off zone for accessible access. facebook.com/ baptismriverbbq

DULUTH DYLAN FEST

May 20-28 Head to the Twin Ports to celebrate Minnesota’s native son Bob Dylan. This year’s Duluth Dylan Fest will kick off on Saturday, May 20 with a party at Earth Rider Brewery in Superior at 7 p.m., featuring music by Hard Rain—All Things Dylan. Other festival activities throughout the week include a singer-songwriter contest,

26 MAY 2023 NORTHERN WILDS
Hands of Fate by Sheena Larson Dir: Aleksa Shermack Dive by Katya Arifin Dir: Rachel Warburton Uhtceare by Amanda Doig Dir: Ariana McLean Leapfrog by Stefani Celine Dir: Leigh Wood Photographic Memory by Ron Davies Dir: Andrew Paulsen Like a Kite by Ron Fromstein Dir: Cordell Kennedy Deal by CB Campbell Dir: ShaeMichelle Watson The Guest by Daniel Hannah Dir: Candi Badanai Last to Know by Shelby Ch’ng Dir: Dennis Dubinsky No Place to Hide by Michael Lehto Dir: Bryan MacLeod
10-2 through October
Hub Parking Lot Grand Marais
Celebrate Minnesota’s native son Bob Dylan with the Duluth Dylan Fest, held May 20-28 in the Twin Ports. | MICHAEL K. ANDERSON
Saturdays
The

an acoustic jam session, a tour of Bob Dylan sites, various lectures, lots of live music, and more. Admission is required for certain events. More information can be found online. duluthdylanfest.com

FIRE FIGHTERS

TEN MILE ROAD RACE

May 22, Monday The Fire Fighters Ten Mile Road Race has been a Thunder Bay tradition since 1910, promoting an active, healthy lifestyle for runners of all skill levels. This year’s event will return to being an in-person race, held on Simpson Street. Individual runners will start at 9 a.m., followed by relay teams starting at 9:10 a.m. The route is an out-and-back with a loop through Marina Park; aid stations provided. Afterwards, an awards presentation will be held at noon at the Columbus Centre. Registration required to participate. 10mileroadrace.org

LE GRAND DU NORD

May 27, Saturday Up to 800 gravel grinders will take to (mostly) unpaved routes on fattire bikes, starting and finishing in Grand Marais. Held by Heck of the North Productions, the Le Grand Du Nord offers three events for cyclists: a 110-mile, 54-mile, and 26-mile route. With more than 5,500 feet of climbing and a decidedly remote feel, the 110-mile course is beautifully challenging. The 54-mile course has plenty of climbing

and miles of forested roads. The 26-mile “marathon” route is a Le Grand-worthy introduction to gravel cycling with its mix of paved and gravel roads, climbing, and great Lake Superior views. The first wave starts at 8 a.m. and spectators are welcome. Riders 18 and younger ride for free with an adult. Registration required. heckofthenorth.com

MAGIC SMELT PARADE & PARTY

May 28, Sunday The Magic Smelt Puppet Troupe will hold their annual parade and party on May 28 in Duluth. This free, family-friendly event begins at 3:30 p.m. with the presentation of the Smelt Queen on the lawn in front of the Maritime Museum (next to the Aerial Lift Bridge). The parade will then proceed down the Lakewalk, featuring live music by the Twin Cities brass band the Brass Messengers, a stilt walking royal guard, an energetic school of silver smelt puppets and mask dancers, and more. Participants and spectators are encouraged to wear silver. After the parade, head to Zeitgeist Arts Café for a smelt fry and party at 5 p.m. Those interested can also participate in free parade workshops prior to the event to help create puppets, costumes, parade art, and more. More details can be found online. magicsmelt.com

NORTHERN LANDSCAPES FESTIVAL

June 2-4 Learn about the birds, wildflowers, insects, and geology of the northern landscape at this annual North House Folk School festival in Grand Marais. This year, the festival will focus on the aquatic landscapes of the north, with free evening presentations on beavers and their impacts on the boreal forest (held Friday, June 2 at 7 p.m.), and a history of fish, fishing, and fisheries management in Lake Superior (held June 3 at 7 p.m.). Other festival highlights include more than a dozen course offerings, including beekeeping basics, Northwoods nature through the lens, foraging for spring wild edibles, spring birding on the North Shore, and more. Course registration required. northhouse.org

NORTHERN WILDS MAY 2023 27 Betsy Bowen Studio & Gallery www.woodcut.com 301 First Avenue West, Grand Marais, MN 218-387-1992 Open Daily11-5 beginning May 18
painted birds all winter,
Blue Jays in April, acrylic on wood, by Betsy Bowen © 2023 Family Owned Since 1947 218-475-2330 Money Exchange Parcel Pickup Duty-Free Liquor 10,000 U.S. and Canadian Souvenirs Gas www.RydensBorderStore.com Get Ready for the Finland Farmers Market 2023! June 15th — October 5th
Thursday 5-6:30 pm Under the Pavilion at the Clair Nelson Center, 6866 Cramer Road, Finland Vendors: 1st week is free! Fee: $5/week or $50/season More info or to register call 218-353-0300 or check out our website at
want to offer community learning experiences related to food at the market,
it’s
to
an
Contact us! 218-353-0300 or email market@friendsoffinland.org We are able to accept credit cards, EBT and
www.finlandfarmersmarket.com Breakfast Ser ved All Day Lunch • Homemade Soups Open 6 am - 2 pm Mon, Wed-Sat 6 am - 12 pm Sun Closed Tues We’re Open Before t he Fish Bite! Loca t ed at t he s t op light in G rand Ma rais 218-3 87- 150 5
With Fresh Art! Betsy
come check them out , along with pottery, jewelry, and much more by local and regional makers.
Every
We
so
time to get creative. Want
be involved? Have
idea?
SNAP
Take part in the annual Magic Smelt Parade and Party in Duluth on Sunday, May 28. | SUBMITTED | ANNA BUSKE
Stay in touch
| JEREMY KERSHAW

NORTHERN WILDS CALENDAR OF EVENTS

Thru May 3

Carole d’Inverno: I Didn’t Know How to Say Goodbye Duluth Art Institute, duluthartinstitute.org

Thru May 6

Father Tartuffe Magnus Theatre, Thunder Bay, magnustheatre.com

Thru May 11

Free Tree Seedlings for Properties in the Flute Reed River Watershed Pickup May 11 at Noon, Cook County Community Center Storage Garage, Grand Marais, arcg.is/qK8na

Thru May 17

Reconnecting Through Clay: Robert DeArmond, Karen Keenan, Ray Shelerud Duluth Art Institute, duluthartinstitute.org

Thru May 21

Duluth Fiber Guild Exhibition Tweed Museum of Art, Duluth, tweed.d.umn.edu

Thru June 7

Alexa Carson: Reclaiming Duluth Art Institute, duluthartinstitute.org

Thru June 17

Catching Up/Resurfacing Exhibition Joseph Nease Gallery, Duluth, josephneasegallery.com

Thru June 18

Blake Debassige Exhibition Thunder Bay Art Gallery, theag.ca

Thru Oct. 31

Now That Summer Has Ended: An Exhibit About Winter Activities During the Fur Trade Era Grand Portage National Monument, visitcookcounty.com/events

April 27-May 21

Fresh Perspectives: Secondary School Art Exhibition Thunder Bay Art Gallery, theag.ca

April 28-July 16

Neechee Studio 10th Anniversary: Oh, My Creator! An Exhibition of Indigenous Youth Artwork Thunder Bay Art Gallery, theag.ca

April 30-May 7

Homegrown Music Festival Duluth, facebook.com/duluthhomegrown

May 1, Monday

Free Day at the Dentist Grand Marais Family Dentistry, 218-387-2774

MMIR Mayday 4 p.m. Foot bridge in Canal Park, Duluth, facebook.com/aichomn

May 1-June 1

Adam Swanson: Bellwether (Reception May 10) Duluth Art Institute, duluthartinstitute.org

May 2, Tuesday

Breakfast for Heroes 8 a.m.

American Legion Post 109, Two Harbors, lakecounty-chamber.com

Dare to Dream Day 3 p.m. DaVinci Centre, Thunder Bay, mazinaajim.com

May 3, Wednesday

Northspan Open House 4 p.m. Northspan Group, Duluth, northspan.org

Lakehead Choral Group: Song & Dance 7:30 p.m. St. Agnes Church, Thunder Bay, facebook.com/lakeheadchoralgroup

May 3-6

MOMologues 2: Off to School Cambrian Players Theatre, Thunder Bay, facebook.com/cambrianplayers

May 4, Thursday

Walk & Bike to School Day: Star Wars Theme GES & Sawtooth Elementary, Grand Marais, facebook.com/cookcounty

Duluth Lions Club Pancake Day 6 a.m. Decc, Duluth, facebook.com/duluthlionsclub

Walk! Bike! Fun! Educator Training Session

8:30 a.m. Cook County Community Center, Grand Marais, tinyurl.com/wbfeducator

May 5, Friday

Walk! Bike! Fun! Ambassador Training Session Noon, Cook County Community Center, Grand Marais, tinyurl.com/wbfambassador

Beendigen’s Healing Our Own Open House Noon, Victoriaville Centre, Thunder Bay, facebook.com/beendigen

Magical Delusions Charity Gala 6 p.m. Delta Hotel, Thunder Bay, facebook.com/kellymentalhealth

Spirit of Thunder Bay: Premier Scotch Tasting 6:30 p.m. Victoria Inn, Thunder Bay, lakeheadrotary.com

Full Moon Reading 7 p.m. Drury Lane Books, Grand Marais, facebook.com/drurylanebooks

Gerry Dee: Best Medicine Tour

7:30 p.m. Thunder Bay Community Auditorium, tbca.com

TBSO: Noondaagotoon! 7:30 p.m. Fort William Historical Park, Thunder Bay, tbso.ca

May 5-7

World Accordion Festival Harrington Arts Center, Superior, worldofaccordions.org

Disney’s Moana Jr. 7 p.m. (2 p.m. Sunday) Lyric Center for the Arts, Virginia, lyriccenteronline.org

May 5-28

Up North Landscapes: Douglass Ross (Reception May 5 at 5 p.m.) Johnson Heritage Post, Grand Marais, cookcountyhistory.org

May 5-31

Artist of the Month: Dodie Logue Tettegouche State Park, Silver Bay, friendsoftettegouche.org

May 6, Saturday

Premier Home Style Tour 9 a.m. Thunder Bay, premierhomestyletour.com

Walk! Bike! Fun! Bike Maintenance Training Session 9 a.m. Cook County Community Center, Grand Marais, tinyurl.com/wbfbikefix

Lady Prom 6 p.m. Greysolon Ballroom, Duluth, glitteratievents.com

DSSO: Masterworks 7: Copland & Beethoven 7 p.m. Decc: Symphony Hall, Duluth, dsso.com

Theory of a Deadman: The Dinosaur Tour 7:30 p.m. Thunder Bay Community Auditorium, tbca.com

Consortium Aurora Borealis: Viva I’Italia! 8 p.m. St. Paul’s United Church, Thunder Bay, consortiumab.org

May 6-7

Duluth Area Trail Clearing Weekend

8:30 a.m. Duluth, superiorhiking.org

Robbie Craig’s Northern Projects 10 a.m. Hampton Inn & Suites, Thunder Bay, rcraig.org

Folklore Festival: A World Tour of Nations Noon, Fort William Gardens & Curling Club, Thunder Bay, folklorefestival.ca

May 7, Sunday

Spring Craft Revival 10 a.m. Waterfront District, Thunder Bay, facebook.com/craftrevivaltbay

Naval Reserve Centennial Event 10 a.m. Marina Park, Thunder Bay, visitthunderbay.com

Minnesota Ballet Sunday Matinee: Celebrity Dance Challenge All Stars Edition 2 p.m. St. Louis County Depot: Minnesota Ballet’s Studio Four Theater, Duluth, facebook.com/minnesotaballet

International Dance Academy 2 p.m. Thunder Bay Community Auditorium, tbca.com

May 9, Tuesday

Free Public Lecture: Dr. Peter Raffo: Naming the New City at Lakehead 7:30 p.m. Thunder Bay Museum, thunderbaymuseum.com

Foreigner: The Greatest Hits Tour

8 p.m. Amsoil Arena, Decc: Symphony Hall, Duluth, decc.org

May 9-11

A Walk Through Time: 100 Year Celebration

Open House 9 a.m. Fort William Country Club, Thunder Bay, fwcc.ca

May 10, Wednesday

World Orienteering Day 3 p.m. Ely Public Library, elylibrary.org

Fay Gleeson Dance Centre 7 p.m. Thunder Bay Community Auditorium, tbca.com

May 10-14

MOMologues 2: Off to School

Cambrian Players Theatre, Thunder Bay, facebook.com/cambrianplayers

May 11, Thursday

Hot Stove Nights Educational Lecture Series 5:30 p.m. Lake Superior Railroad Museum, Duluth, lsrm.org

Venture Thunder Bay 6 p.m. Delta Hotel, Thunder Bay, venturetbay.eventbrite.ca

May 11-13

Duluth Junk Hunt 9 a.m. (4 p.m. Thurs.) Decc, Duluth, duluthjunkhunt.com

What She Said: New Play Festival 7:30 p.m. Duluth Playhouse, duluthplayhouse.org

Cook County YMCA Dance Recital: Starry Night 7 p.m. (6 p.m. Thurs.) Arrowhead Center for the Arts, Grand Marais, facebook.com/cookcountycommunityymca

May 12, Friday

Talent Night 6 p.m. 311 Victoria Ave E, Thunder Bay, facebook.com/speakersschool

Minnesota Ballet Student Showcase 7 p.m. Decc: Symphony Hall, Duluth, minnesotaballet.org

May 12-13

Quest: Tech & Gaming Fort William Gardens, Thunder Bay, visitthunderbay.com

May 13, Saturday

Minnesota Fishing Opener

One Stop & Shop 8 a.m. CLE Heritage Building, Thunder Bay, facebook.com/groups/onestopandshop

Virtual Writers Café 9:30 a.m. lakesuperiorwriters.org

Nice Girls of the North Second Saturday Marketplace 10 a.m. Spirit of the Lake Community School, Duluth, nicegirlsofthenorth.com

The Depot Steam Festival 10 a.m. St. Louis County Depot, Duluth, experiencethedepot.org

Zorya Ukrainian Dancers 7 p.m. Thunder Bay Community Auditorium, tbca.com

28 MAY 2023 NORTHERN WILDS

Trails and Ales 7 p.m. Sleeping Giant Brewery, Thunder Bay, facebook.com/blacksheepmtb

Bywater Call 8 p.m. Port Arthur Polish Hall, Thunder Bay, sleepinggiant.ca

May 13-14

License-Free Family Fishing in Ontario Throughout Ontario, ontariofamilyfishing.com

May 14, Sunday

Mother’s Day

Muffins & Mom-osas 10 a.m. Gillies Community Center, South Gillies, facebook.com/gilliescc

Sin City Illusions: A Las Vegas Magic Experience

7:30 p.m. Thunder Bay Community Auditorium, tbca.com

May 15, Monday

Arrowhead Library System’s Bookmobile

4:30 p.m. McQuade Small Craft Harbor, Duluth, alslib.info

May 15-28

Sylvia Houle Art Exhibit: The Stories We Share 5 p.m. Ely’s Historic State Theater, northernlakesarts.org

May 16, Tuesday

Flower Crafts 3 p.m. Ely Public Library, elylibrary.org

Art in Motion: Chapter 6: A New Beginning 6 p.m. Thunder Bay Community Auditorium, tbca.com

May 17, Wednesday

Reflections Dance Company Spring Showcase 4 p.m. Vermilion Campus, Ely, facebook.com/reflectionsdancecompany

May 18-20

Chequamegon Bay Birding & Nature Festival Ashland, WI, birdandnaturefest.com

May 19, Friday

LSRM 50th Anniversary Exhibit Opening

5:30 p.m. Lake Superior Railroad Museum, Duluth, lsrm.org

Sidestreet Detour 8 p.m. Silver Bay Lounge, Silver Bay, Facebook: Silver Bay Municipal Liquor Store

May 19-21

Martial Arts & Health Expo Lakehead University, Thunder Bay, Facebook: Martial Arts and Health Expo

May 20, Saturday

Superior Spring Trail Races Caribou Highlands Lodge, Lutsen, superiorspringtrailrace.com

City Wide Rummage Sale 8 a.m. Ely, ely.org/events

The Smurfs Great Escape 9 a.m. Thunder Bay, facebook.com/smurfsgreatescape

Author Talk with Linda LeGarde Grover: The Sky Watched: Poems of Ojibwe Lives 11 a.m. Drury Lane Books, Grand Marais, facebook.com/drurylanebooks

Ruck Life 11 a.m. Mont Du Lac Resort, Superior, 23rdveteran.org

The Historic Green Door Smelt Fry 11 a.m. The Green Door, Beaver Bay, facebook.com/baptismriverbbq

Lake Superior Writers Annual Membership Event

1:30 p.m. Duluth Public Library: Green Room, lakesuperiorwriters.org

Festiversary 2 p.m. Bent Paddle Brewing, Duluth, bentpaddlebrewing.com

Duluth Dance Center Recital 6 p.m.

Decc: Symphony Hall, Duluth, decc.org

May 20-21

All the Daze Productions Presents: The Grunch 7:30 p.m. Magnus Theatre, Thunder Bay, allthedaze.ca

May 20-28

Duluth Dylan Fest Duluth, duluthdylanfest.com

May 21, Sunday

218 Dance Project Recital

Decc: Symphony Hall, Duluth, decc.org

May 22, Monday

Victoria Day

Fire Fighters 10 Mile Road Race 9 a.m. Thunder Bay, 10mileroadrace.org

May 22-26

North American Moose Conference & Workshop Grand Portage, mooseconference2023.com

May 22-June 18

Annual Member Show (Reception May 31) Duluth Art Institute, duluthartinstitute.org

May 23, Tuesday

Queen: It’s a Kinda Magic 7:30 p.m. Thunder Bay Community Auditorium, tbca.com

May 24, Wednesday

An Evening with Todd Talbot in Support of Our Kids Count 6 p.m. Tony’s Cabinets & Alyssa Marie Designs, Thunder Bay, facebook.com/tonyscabinets

May 25, Thursday

Red Cross Blood Drive 9 a.m. Decc, Duluth, decc.org

Thunder Bay Career Fair 1 p.m. Valhalla Hotel & Conference Centre, Thunder Bay, facebook.com/jobscanadafair

Bike Safety Rodeo 3 p.m. Cook County Community Center, Grand Marais, 218-302-1342

Open Dance Night 7:30 p.m.

St. Louis County Depot: Minnesota Ballet’s Studio Four Theater, Duluth, facebook.com/minnesotaballet

May 26, Friday

Culture Crawl 4 p.m. Cook County History Museum, Grand Marais, cookcountyhistory.org

May 26-28

Superior Quilt Show 10 a.m. (Noon on Fri.) CLE: Coliseum Building, Thunder Bay, thunderbayquilters.org

May 26-June 4

The Curious Incident of the Dog in the NightTime Duluth Playhouse, duluthplayhouse.org

May 26-Aug. 26

Air-Openness Exhibition (Reception May 26 at 5 p.m.) Grand Marais Art Colony’s Studio 21, Grand Marais, grandmaraisartcolony.org

May 27, Saturday

Le Grand Du Nord Gravel Cycling Classics Grand Marais, heckofthenorth.com

Wizards Demo Day with Cars, Bikes & Coffee

8 a.m. Cook County Home Center, Grand Marais, acehardware.com

Free Clothing Exchange 9 a.m. 675 Red River Rd, Thunder Bay, facebook.com/theclothinglady

Cook County Market Opens 10 a.m. Senior Center Parking Lot (The Hub), Grand Marais, facebook.com/ccfarmandcraft

Annual Shredding Event 10 a.m. Intercity Shopping Centre, Thunder Bay, facebook.com/thunderbaycrimestoppers

Children’s Story Hour 11 a.m. Drury Lane Books, Grand Marais, facebook.com/drurylanebooks

Sparks & Fire Spring Artisan Show

11 a.m. Sleeping Giant Brewery, Thunder Bay, sparksandfire.ca

Blues Blast 2023 3:30 p.m. DaVinci Centre, Thunder Bay, thunderbaybluessociety.ca

The Antibodies: Longform Improv 8 p.m. Zeitgeist, Duluth, zeitgeistarts.com

May 27-28

Finland Area Trail Clearing Weekend 8:30 a.m. Finland Community Center, superiorhiking.org

May 28, Sunday

Hike for Hospice 9 a.m. St. Ignatius High School, Thunder Bay, hospicenorthwest.ca

Magic Smelt Parade & Party 3:30 p.m. Duluth, magicsmelt.com

May 29, Monday

Memorial Day

Legacy Dance Studio: Latin Nights

7 p.m. Thunder Bay Community Auditorium, tbca.com

May 31-June 1

All The Daze Productions: Into the Woods

7:30 p.m. Thunder Bay Community Auditorium, tbca.com

May 31-Sept. 12

Keren Kroul: Atlas of the Mind Duluth Art Institute, duluthartinstitute.org

June 2-4

Northern Landscapes Festival North House Folk School, Grand Marais, northhouse.org

June 3, Saturday

Duluth Monarch Festival 10 a.m. Coppertop Church, Duluth, duluthmonarchbuddies.org

WEEKLY EVENTS

Tuesdays

Locals Night with Live Music 4:30 p.m. North Shore Winery, Lutsen, northshorewinery.us

Zen Meditation Tuesdays 6:30 p.m. First Congregational Church UCC, Grand Marais, grandmaraisucc.org

Wednesdays

Thunder Bay Country Market 3:30 p.m. CLE Dove Building, Thunder Bay, tbcm.ca

Thursdays

Thursday Night Art 4 p.m. Joy & Company, Grand Marais, facebook.com/joyandcompanymn

Date Night with Live Music 6 p.m. North Shore Winery, Lutsen, northshorewinery.us

Fridays

Renegade Friday Nights 10:30 p.m. Zeitgeist, Duluth, zeitgeistarts.com

Saturdays

Thunder Bay Country Market 8 a.m. CLE Dove Building, Thunder Bay, tbcm.ca

Thunder Bay Farmers’ Market 10 a.m. North End Recreation Centre, Thunder Bay, facebook.com/t.bay.farmersmarket

Saturday Fiber Circle 10 a.m. Dappled Fern Fibers, Grand Marais, dappledfernfibers.com

on May 27!

NORTHERN WILDS MAY 2023 29
30 MAY 2023 NORTHERN WILDS Dining With a view of Poplar Lake Home of the Gunflint Trail's ONLY Liquor Store Open daily @ 11am Sat 12pm-9pm Fri 3pm-8pm Sun 12pm-8pm Reopening May12th! 5/14 10am-3pm: Mother's Day Brunch! (Reservation Required) Trail Center Lodge Halfway up the Gunflint Trail Restaurant - Bar - Camp Chow Cabins - Motel - Gas - Gifts - Store www.trailcenterlodge.com 7611 Gunflint Trail • 218-388-2214 Great Food Great Views Dining Lodging Provisions
Home of Open Year-Round Clean affordable lodging for the hiker, biker, skier, paddler, lake watcher & rock skipper. Book online @ www.hungryhippie.com 218-387-2256 • Near Grand Marais, MN www.hungryhippiehostel.com Hungry Hippie Hostel
Photo by Nace Hageman

The North Shore Dish Satisfying Your Sweet Tooth Cravings

I’ve got a sweet tooth. Sometimes I try to blame it on my grandfather. He was a Danish man who emigrated in the 1920s; a gruff, playful, and hardworking man with a penchant for table sugar sprinkled on garden fresh tomatoes and chocolate chips straight out of the bag (which he incidentally didn’t keep in a bag, but in a glass mason jar in the cupboard).

Sometimes, a sweet tooth calls for something more sophisticated than chocolate chips out of the cupboard, and along the North Shore we have several options for handmade, unique, and even nostalgic treats. For many of us, food is closely tied to memory, and some of our local candy shops are also in the memory business— both in creating new ones and inciting old ones. Great! Lakes Candy Kitchen in Knife River is in the legacy chocolate business, Ely’s Old-Fashioned Candy is packed full of throwbacks from another time, and Rocky Mtn Chocolate is building a family-owned legacy across Canada.

Great! Lakes Candy Kitchen, Knife River

Great! Lakes Candy Kitchen is situated in a little house with a picturesque porch right on the North Shore Scenic Drive, with a lovely view of Lake Superior. For many, the opening of Great! Lakes Candy Kitchen marks the hope of spring. They are a fourth-generation candy store, using the same recipes they always have, while developing a few new ones along the way. All of their candies are made in copper kettles onsite, with a conscientious eye towards the best ingredients for the best candies.

In my house there is great debate over which kind of chocolate is the best: dark or milk. The beauty at Great! Lakes Candy Kitchen is that most of their signature chocolate treats can be purchased in dark or milk chocolate, and they have some white chocolate treats available as well. Malted milk balls, chocolate fish on a stick, twirly lollipops, hard candies, and other treats can be found prepackaged around the perimeter of the store, along with some local treasures and tchotchkes. Or, you can hand-select your treats from the large display case, which is full of climate-controlled chocolate treats; sea salt caramels, coconut almond chocolate, truffles, peanut brittle, turtles, English toffee, and more. All items are sold by the pound, so you can get as few or as many treats as you want.

NORTHERN WILDS MAY 2023 31
In addition to the canoe of salt water taffy, Ely’s Old-Fashioned Candy has many other nostalgic offerings, such as wax lips, candy buttons, Pop Rocks, Fruit Stripe Gum, and Beeman’s Clove Gum. | ELY’S OLD-FASHIONED CANDY

Above all, the folks at Great! Lakes Candy Kitchen value legacy. They have created legacy with their heirloom recipes and on-site creations from scratch, but they also strive to be a destination along the North Shore. In addition to delicious homemade treats, the Candy Kitchen has a Bear Trail alongside the shop with life size hand-painted bears and photo spots, where you’ll find children and grownups alike stretching their legs on a summer day.

Ely’s Old-Fashioned Candy, Ely

The old storefront, located on Sheridan Street in the heart of Ely, once served as a tavern and then a shoe store before welcoming Ely’s Old-Fashioned Candy in 2017. When you walk in, you are hit with a sugar rush of nostalgia. Ely’s Old-Fashioned Candy deals in more than just candy; they deal in memories.

Candies are sorted in wooden buckets around the perimeter of the store—more than 100 different kinds—all organized by the decade in which they were invented. Lining these same walls, above the buckets of treats, you’ll find photographs of Ely and of Sheridan Street dating back to circa 1890, and the shelves are peppered with interesting stories and facts about the origins of your favorite candies.

In addition to the canoe of salt water taffy and other individually wrapped candies along the wall, from which you can create your own personalized bag of treats, Ely’s Old-Fashioned Candy has many other nostalgic offerings. They offer candy buttons, Pop Rocks, wax lips, and if you’re an adult of a certain age, you may remember Fruit Stripe Gum or maybe even Beeman’s Clove Gum. Ely’s Old-Fashioned Candy has all of your modern favorites too, including handcrafted chocolates, cotton candy, popcorn, and Minnesota maple syrup, but these older and difficult to find candies are what truly makes it unique.

Rocky Mtn Chocolate, Thunder Bay

With 45 locations across Canada, Rocky Mtn Chocolate remains a family-owned

business, serving Canadians from coast to coast. Rocky Mtn Chocolate came from humble beginnings, opening their first store in Whistler Village in 1988, and has since become one of the most recognizable chocolate brands in Canada, and the Thunder Bay location can be found in the Intercity Shopping Centre.

Rocky Mtn Chocolate creates handmade chocolates in small batches, and is known for their chocolate bombs. These bombs are “smooth chocolate, wrapped in caramel and chocolate, flavored to perfection.” There are a wide variety of chocolate bomb flavors, such as sea salt toffee, raspberry cheesecake, matcha green tea, wild blueberry, tropical escape, and apple pie. Rocky Mtn Chocolate also sports an assortment of caramel apples, fudge, chocolate bars, and chocolate dipped fruit and nuts, all exclusively handmade. If you stop in at the right time, you just might catch some fudge-making or caramel dipping.

They also offer online ordering, including shipping and same day delivery, depending on your location. Rocky Mtn Coffee is a proudly Canadian family-owned business, a member of the World Cocoa Foundation, focusing on the sustainability of the cocoa market and farmers around the world, and is dedicated to the future of confection.

Candies and chocolate are not the first thing that comes to mind when considering your legacy, but one thing I love about Great! Lakes Candy Kitchen, Ely’s Old-Fashioned Candy, and Rocky Mtn Chocolate is each of them has legacy as part of their mission. Great! Lakes Candy Kitchen uses recipes passed down four generations, and has created a lovely destination on the shore to stretch your legs and experience handmade candies from year to year. Ely’s Old-Fashioned Candy brings a wealth of historical candy knowledge, and the ability to experience candies that seemingly were lost to time. Rocky Mtn Chocolate remains focused on scalable growth within Canada, but also on creating a sustainable industry of chocolatiers. It’s not sugar-sprinkled garden tomatoes, but legacy takes on many different forms.

32 MAY 2023 NORTHERN WILDS
Open All Year MySistersPlaceRestaurant.com Order Online! 218-387-1915 401 E. Hwy 61, Grand Marais Down-home Northwoods Atmosphere BEER & WINE Regional Beer on Tap! S C H E D U L E A N A P P O I N T M E N T T O D A Y ! G r a n d P o r t a g e H e a l t h S e r v i c e s : ( 2 1 8 ) 4 7 5 - 2 2 3 5 S a w t o o t h M o u n t a i n C l i n i c : ( 2 1 8 ) 3 8 7 - 2 3 3 0 “It’s nice to know his vaccines are up to date when he goes off to preschool ” W h y d o y o u t a k e y o u r c h i l d t o c h e c k u p s ? A M A N D A Mom to Odin (4)
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Great! Lakes Candy Kitchen offers a giant selection of sweet treats, including sweet cream caramel apples. | GREAT! LAKES CANDY KITCHEN

NORTH HOUSE FOLK SCHOOL

“A Child of the Indian Race

A Story of Return

Minnesota Historical Society Press, 2022, $18.95

In the 1950s, when Sandy White Hawk was a toddler, she was taken from her Lakota family on the Rosebud Indian Reservation in South Dako ta. Her adoption papers identify her as “a child of the Indian race” and her adoptive mother shamed her for being “Indian.” After medicating her trauma with drugs and alcohol, Sandy gained sobriety and reconnected with her birth relatives at age 28. As she learned what it means to be La kota, she also learned that thousands of Native adoptees shared her experience. White Hawk has since gone on to use her voice to advocate, found ing the First Nations Repatriation Institute, an organization that addresses the post-adoption issues of Native American individuals, fami lies, and communities. This profoundly moving memoir is a must-read for everyone, and it’s a great example of how to turn pain into healing to

LEARN TRADITIONAL CRAFT ONLINE AND ON THE SHORE OF LAKE SUPERIOR SCHOOL STORE OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK • NORTHHOUSE.ORG
34 MAY 2023 NORTHERN WILDS

Northern Trails

Small River Trout Fishing

A classic trout creek or river may not always be swift, clear, and pretty. However, a lot of them in northwest Ontario are, which is one of my favourite things about trout fishing. Some rivers feature “alligator water,” my name for slow waters choked with overhanging grass or weeds. Other trout rivers are swift and rollicking, with spring water entering, or areas of upwelling. All creeks and rivers have certain areas that hold more trout than others. Let’s break down where and how to fish small waters for trout.

Pools and Falls

The pools in a creek or small river hold deep water refuge for trout, as well as plentiful food and cover. You can rarely go wrong casting at the entrance and tail out of a pool. Any part of a pool can potentially hold trout, but where the current is flowing in or out is a natural place for fish to feed. Falls are created by a break, or landform, that creates a change in elevation. Manmade weirs can also create falls. Some falls are high, but most are less than 6 feet. The falls oxygenates the water, which is something all trout like. Steelhead and other migratory salmonids will sit below a falls before they jump. Some falls are no fishing areas for this reason (check your local regulations). While the plunge pool of a falls is the natural fish holding habitat for trout, don’t ignore the top of a falls. There are often springs on top, and brook trout in particular will lay right on the edge of the fast water break, waiting for food that is swept by in the current.

Runs and Slow Water

Fishing the slower water of a river may not be your first instinct. However, all trout will use slow water areas depending on depth, cover, and water temperature. Trees, tall grass, shrubs, and branches that overhang slow water will provide the safety trout and migratory steelhead need. They also deliver the terrestrial bugs that brook trout in small water gorge on. I’ve found that slower water fish are nervous and will dart around if you don’t approach with stealth. Get low and wear dull colours when you are fishing small waters.

One of the hottest spots you can find on a small stream or river is a beaver dam, particularly the first few years of a new dam

NORTHERN WILDS MAY 2023 35
Brook trout will gravitate behind beaver dams. | GORD ELLIS

build. Beavers create reservoirs with the dams they build, and this makes a mini lake where there wasn’t one before. Pan-sized brook trout that have been living in small streams suddenly have room to move and grow. Steelhead that jumped over the dam in high water can get trapped behind them as well. That creates a rare chance to catch a very large fish on light tackle. As dams age, however, they tend to silt in and warm, making them less appealing to trout.

Tackling Streams

The nature of creeks and small rivers is tighter confines, and less water to cover. This will mean scaling back both your terminal tackle and downsizing your lures and flies. Light to ultra-light spinning gear will be the name of the game, with a rod length under 7 feet and light lines. Modern monofilament is thin, strong, and works well in tight quarters. You can use very light braid, but it is like a spiderweb, and I find it gets knotted up more easily.

The top lures for small streams will be downsized, but flashy. Tiny spinners are deadly in creeks as the spin of small blades seems to ring the dinner bell. The vibration of a spinner will also pull brookies out from undercut banks or fallen trees. A 1/4-ounce spinner like the Panther Martin, Mepps Black Fury, or Worden’s Rooster Tail will do the job in most small waters. Many spinner anglers add a tiny piece of worm to the hook for an additional attraction. Small spoons like the Williams, EGB Blinker, Little Cleo, Al’s Goldfish, or Krocodile are also great trout catchers, especially in pools, deep runs and beaver dams. Have a mix of sizes and weights up to about 3/8-ounce. Another very deadly lure family for small creeks are the various micro/ultra-light crankbaits that copy minnows, amphibians, and insects such as grasshoppers and cicadas.

Fly anglers can use a light set up and shorter rod with a floating line. I like a 5 or 6 weight fly rod on all but the smallest waters. On the coastal creeks and rivers I fish, the occasional lake run brook trout or steelhead will eat your fly and give you a fight to remember on a light rod. I usually carry one box of flies, with classic patterns like the Woolly Worm, Beadhead Soft Hackle, Royal

Coachman, and March Brown. I’ll add a few Muddler Minnows, Clouser Minnows and a hopper pattern—and throw in a few basic nymph patterns for good measure. This is old school fly fishing, but it’s very fun. When you drop a hopper pattern on the top of the pool and have a brookie eat in the blink of an eye, you won’t care that there was little casting involved.

Bait

A worm on a #6 hook with a small split shot or two is always going to catch a trout. On coastal streams where salmonids and suckers spawn, brook trout and steelhead will grab a single egg or small spawn bag. Oddly enough, they eat salmon or trout eggs even when the spawning fish are gone. Drifting eggs under a small float with a #8 Octopus hook and minimal weight is the best way to fish eggs in small water.

Small stream trout fishing is both a great way to reconnect with your fishing roots and get away from the crowds.

36 MAY 2023 NORTHERN WILDS 218-388-2232 www.visitloonlake.com Experience the silence of a bike ride on the water. 8 Original Log Cabins built in the 1920’s Pet Friendly GUNFLINT TRAIL
MARAIS,
GRAND
MN
Devin Ellis leans into a big one. | GORD ELLIS Devin Ellis picking through some small trout flies. | GORD ELLIS

WHY GO: Duncan Lake lies just a short, quarter-mile portage into the Boundary Waters. It boasts a good lake trout population, with a decent chance at better-than-average fish. An abundant cisco forage base fattens up those hefty mackinaws and could provide a good fishery in their own right.

ACCESS: As Boundary Waters lakes go, Duncan isn’t too hard to get to. The shortest route is to access the lake from Bearskin Lake. Park at the West Bearskin Portage parking lot on the southwest corner of Bearskin Lake, off Hungry Jack Road. Another option is to launch at the Bearskin Lake public access on the east end of Bearskin Lake, where Clearwater Road meets N. Bearskin Lake Road. The downside is you’ll have to traverse the entire length of Bearskin Lake; however, you could use a motorboat or snowmobile, making it easier. The portage to Duncan is located in the extreme northwest corner of Bearskin Lake, following a stream that flows between Bearskin and Duncan. Alternatively, you can access Duncan from Moss Lakes, which Matt Weberg, assistant area fisheries manager in Grand Marais, said is a popular option for winter anglers. Once you hit Moss Lake, go straight north into

NORTHERN SKY

MAY 2023

During May, brilliant Venus holds its own above the western horizon as the last of the bright winter stars stream past it.

Our sister planet begins the month by gliding between Betelgeuse, in Orion, and Capella, in Auriga, the charioteer. Betelgeuse, to the lower left of Venus, is outshone by both the planet and high, brilliant Capella. As those stars drop away, Venus passes through Gemini, all the while following a course towards Mars, which appears to be fleeing its approach.

The assemblage is enhanced on Monday and Tuesday, the 22nd and 23rd, when a waxing moon joins the stars and planets. The bright star passing to the lower left of Venus those nights is Procyon, in Canis Minor, the little dog. The moon appears next to Pollux—the brighter Gemini twin—on the 23rd and above Mars on the 24th.

The moon begins the month below the triangular hindquarters of Leo, the lion. Leo’s head—the backward question mark of stars known as the Sickle—now dips a bit as the

DUNCAN LAKE

the shallow bay for a short downhill portage into Duncan. Both Moss and Bearskin lie just outside the Boundary Waters, meaning anglers can motor or snowmobile across them to make the journey into Duncan a little easier. To reach Duncan Lake, drive 29 miles up the Gunflint Trail (Cook County Highway 12). Turn right onto Hungry Jack Road (Cook County Highway 65) just before Trail Center. Proceed about 2.4 miles to the West Bearskin Portage parking lot. If you’re looking to come in from Moss, proceed about 1.5 miles down Hungry Jack Road from the Gunflint. There’s a light trail from the northwest corner of Hungry Jack Lake. The boat launch for Bearskin is off Clearwater Road (Cook County Highway 66) if you’re looking to go that route.

VITALS: Duncan Lake spans 476 acres with a maximum depth of 130 feet. It’s a classic, deep, clear, rocky Canadian Shield lake, with a very deep basin. In fact, the average depth is over 45 feet. The lake has seven campsites and is accessible from Boundary Waters Entry Point 60.

GAME SPECIES PRESENT: Lake Trout, cisco and smallmouth bass.

LAKE TROUT: Lakers are the main draw for most anglers on Duncan Lake. “It was stocked for a number of years in the ’80s

and probably earlier than that,” Weberg said. “The population as a whole has per formed very well and shows no sign of re quiring stocking. Fish are able to survive for very long periods and reach trophy size. That’s one of the major draws for folks heading in there. It’s best known for that trophy potential.” Overall lake trout numbers are very good, and you’ll likely encounter a few eaters before you hook into something truly big. Weberg said it’s a popular winter trout lake and he hears of good winter success.

CISCO: Duncan has an abundant cisco population. “It’s an untapped source for sure,” Weberg said of the lake’s cisco population. “I’m not sure how many anglers target them.” Weberg said ciscoes usually run about 12 to 15 inches. And from what he’s seen, they seem to be free of parasites, which plague cisco populations in some lakes. They certainly serve as a high-fat forage base for lake trout and are worth fishing for as well.

SMALLMOUTH BASS: Lake trout rule the depths, but you’ll find smallies on the shallower reefs. “They’ve long been established in there,” Weberg said of Duncan’s bronzebacks. “Our surveys aren’t

constellation begins its inevitable descent toward the sunset. On the 3rd, the moon shines just above Spica, the only bright star in Virgo, the maiden. Above them, radiant Arcturus anchors the kite-shaped constellation Bootes, the herdsman.

May’s full moon arrives at 12:34 p.m. on Friday, the 5th. The moon sets in the west at 5:29 a.m. that day, so your best bet may be to enjoy it as it rises the evening of the 4th or 5th. But if you like to get out in the predawn hour, you may catch the round moon just before it sets on the 5th. Also in the predawn hour, a waning moon visits Saturn in the southeastern sky on Saturday, the 13th. On Wednesday, the 17th, a thin lunar crescent visits Jupiter very low in the east, in the midst of the sun’s foreglow.

For more information on the University of Minnesota’s public viewings of the night sky at its Duluth and Twin Cities campuses, visit: d.umn.edu/planet.

indicative of the smallmouth abundance in there.” Weberg said you’ll find smallmouths in any of the rocky areas and relatively shallow bays. They tend to be small and are slow growing.

STAIRWAY TO HEAVEN: There’s actually two staircases on the portage from Duncan Lake down to Rose Lake, known as the Stairway Portage. This portage provides a scenic view of Rose Falls that’s worth the effort.

View all our Fishing Hole Maps at: northernwilds.com/fishingholemaps

Gidaanikeshkaagonaanig Gidaanikoobijiganinaan Following the Ancestor’s Steps

Red Tail Hawk

This past summer on my way home from Gaa-zagaskwaajimekaag (Leech Lake), I saw a chi bineshiinh (large bird) that had been hit and aapijinazh (killed) by a car on the road. I got out of my car and grabbed my aseema (tobacco) so I could move it off the road. After I picked it up, I realized it was a meskwananiisi (red tail hawk). Before this moment, I had gaa wiikaa (never) seen one up close. I moved it off the road. I then maawanji (collected) a couple of its wanashkidiigwanag (tail feathers) for a niiji (friend) who had been looking for one for his regalia, and biindaakoozh (made an offering of tobacco) to honor its life.

I was so overwhelmed with holding this beautiful manidoo (spirit) that, after giiwebizo (I drove home), I sketched it out but then put it aside until I was ready to paint it. I recently found the sketch from last niibin (summer) and completed the piece to honor this beautiful bineshiinh (bird).

Follow my studio on Facebook and Instagram @CraneSuperior or if you have ideas for a North Shore painting, you can email me at: cranesuperiorstudio@gmail.com.

38 MAY 2023 NORTHERN WILDS

Tales

Popular Northern Wilds Rivers

Did you know that out of more than 250,000 rivers in the United States, the two longest are the Missouri River at 2,341 miles (3,767 km) and the Mississippi River at 2,340 miles (3,766 km)? Did you know the 370-mile-long (595 km) Minnesota River is a tributary of the Mississippi River? It’s also the namesake for the State of Minnesota, the name coming from the Dakota language “Mnisota Makoce” which was translated to “land where the waters reflect the sky.” Other sources list Dakota variants as the source like, “mini sota” meaning “clear blue water,” or “Minissota,” translated to “cloudy water.”

In Canada, according to Canadian Geographic, the country has 8,500 named rivers, with the two longest being the Mackenzie River at 2,365 miles (4,241 km) and the Yukon River at 1,979 miles (3,185 km). In Ontario, the longest river is the Ottawa River at 790 miles (1,271 km).

While there is some ongoing debate about what qualifies as a river versus a stream, and how a river’s length is measured (like where does it really begin and end?), the world of pop culture and arts like the romanticism and adventure surrounding rivers, using it in the title of many songs and movies. Who hasn’t heard of the classic Moon River (Andy Williams); The River (Bruce Spingsteen); Down by the River (Neil Young); River of Dreams (Billy Joel); Cry Me a River (Justin Timberlake) and River (Joni Mitchell), to name a few. Movie titles include Wind River ; River ; The River is Wild; A River Runs Through It, and from almost a century ago, Gene Autry’s Red River Valley

In our Northern Wilds region, we’ve got plenty of rivers. Here’s a snapshot look at just a few of them.

For starters, Thunder Bay has two major and historic waterways flowing into Lake Superior. Over in the south end (aka the former city of Fort William), there’s the Kaministiquia River, which locals simply call the “Kam,” and in the northern side (aka formerly Port Arthur), there’s the Current River.

According to the late historian J. B. Bertrand in his book Highway of Destiny, “The interpretation of the word Kaministiquia from its original Ojibway language is ‘meandering river’ and ‘a river with three mouths.’” The description is very apt, as at the mouth of the river is a delta with two islands, McKellar Island and Mission Island, and three distinct branches flowing into Lake Superior. The southern channel

is Mission River, the central outlet is McKellar River, and the northernmost branch is the Kaministiquia, flowing 59 miles (95 km) from its source at Dog Lake.

The historic Kam River was a major furtrade route to western Canada. Today, further down the Kam, is one of the world’s largest reconstructed fur-trading posts, the North West Company’s (NWC) inland headquarters now known as Fort William Historical Park. The original dated back to the early 1800s and was situated at the mouth of the Kam River (the first post on the Kam was built in 1684-85 by Duluth’s namesake Daniel Greysolon, Sieur du Luht).

On the Kaministiquia is Ontario’s second largest waterfall, Kakabeka Falls. Also known as the “Niagara of the North,” it drops 154 feet (47 metres) into the river. An accessible boardwalk trail on both sides of the river brings visitors up close to the falls.

A second important waterway for furtrade and transportation to the Canadian West was the Pigeon River, which flows easterly from the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness for 31.2 miles (50.2 km) and empties into Lake Superior at Grand Portage (site of the first NWC inland furtrade headquarters; today visitors can explore a reconstructed fort at the Grand Portage National Monument). A few miles before the Pigeon River enters Lake Superior is Minnesota’s highest waterfall, High Falls in Grand Portage, which drops 120 feet (37 metres) into the river. A short 1.1-mile (1.9 km) paved boardwalk trail leads visitors to the falls from the visitor centre.

Pigeon River—namesake for the extinct passenger pigeons which once numbered in the millions—is the English translation of the 18th century French name Rivière aux Tourtres or Tourtes. However, back in the late 1600s, its first European name was St. Pierre River (St. Peter in English) because it was ‘found’ on St. Pierre Day by a French group that included people named “Pierre.”

Pigeon River forms part of the Minnesota-Ontario border. During the Covid-19 pandemic when the international border was closed, there are tales of friends happily ‘meeting’ and talking across the river— friends standing on the Canadian side and Americans on the other.

One short river in Minnesota’s Boundary Waters seems at first to have a baffling name—Crocodile River originating in Crocodile Lake. Crocodiles in Minnesota? As the story goes, the name comes from the crocodile shape of the lake and the Crocodile River forms the tail.

The name Knife River begs the question, what does the waterway have to do with a knife? Well, none. In the Minnesota Geographic Names and Their Origin and Historic Significance (1920), Warren Upham writes that the Knife River’s name is an “accurate preservation of its native Ojibwe name Mookomani-Ziibi” and that it was “probably given on account of the long, sharp stones near the mouth of the river.”

NORTHERN WILDS MAY 2023 39
Strange
VISIT WOLF.ORG FOR DAILY PROGRAM SCHEDULE 1396 HIGHWAY 169 • ELY, MINNESOTA 55731 • 218-365-HOWL DISCOVER ARCTIC WOLVES! Daily Programs • Gift Store • Exhibits • Live Wolves May 1-21 • 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Sundays May 26 – Oct. 23 • Open daily 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. New arctic exhibit!
Fort William on the Kaministiquia River in 1811. | PUBLIC DOMAIN

167 Coyote Ridge

Amazing Lake Superior view lot with 4.6 acres and only about 3 miles from Grand Marais. Infrastructure is in place: driveway, electric, broadband, well, generator, and septic. A small unfinished cabin with screened area and solar panels could serve as a bunkhouse while you build your dream house. Or live in the RV hooked up to the water & sewer. MLS

1315 E Highway 61

40 MAY 2023 NORTHERN WILDS ©2022 Coldwell Banker Real Estate LLC. All Rights Reserved. Coldwell Banker® and the Coldwell Banker Logo are registered service marks owned by Coldwell Banker Real Estate LLC. Coldwell Banker Real Estate LLC fully supports the principles of the Fair Housing Act and the Equal Opportunity Act. Each office is independently owned and operated. Coldwell Banker and the Coldwell Banker Logo are registered service marks owned by Coldwell Banker Real Estate LLC. www.cbnorthshore.com 101 West highway 61 grand marais, mn 55604 218-387-2131 800-732-2131 COMMERCIAL Reduced 296 Cramer
the expansive Lake Superior views and the privacy of 5 acres! 4BR/2BA home with oversized master suite, open concept kitchen, good sized pantry, breakfast nook, and great room. Park your car and store your toys in the 20x24 garage! This is a great location for many outdoor adventures!
6107103 $319,900
commercial opportunity at City Limits!
a 3BR rental unit,
Cathedral
partially
master bedroom
your idea and make your
6104280 $1,500,000 HOMES & CABINS NEW
Road Enjoy
MLS
Incredible
Current use includes
professional office, and huge home!
ceilings,
finished second floor, beautiful custom designed kitchen,
with ensuite and private patio access. Bring
dream come true! MLS
TBD $269,900

Nicely wooded 5 acre lot at the end of a cul-de-sac with views of Lake Superior! Great location--just minutes from Grand Marais MLS 6102645 $129,900

Beautiful lot just outside Grand Marais. Fall River runs through this property. Dramatic frontage!

MLS 609581 3 $62,000

183 Linnell Rd

Wonderful 5 acre lot on a quiet county maintained road with drilled well and partial driveway in place. Perfect distance from town for some country living yet close to all Grand Marais has to offer. Potential lake views!

MLS 6106867 $89,900

XXX Reason Road

If you’re looking for a remote property with access to recreation, this is the one for you! 120 acres of mature trees, varied topography, and wildlife. Make trails to explore the area and let your adventure begin.

MLS 6103087 $119,900

XXX

40 wooded acres on a wellmaintained county road can be yours to build your dream house, your hunting cabin, or pitch your tent. Here is a great base from which to explore the Arrowhead Region or just hike your acreage. Make it your own wildlife refuge.

MLS 6103079 $169,900

NEW

Highway 61 E

Beautiful 20 acres overlooking Lake Superior! Prime spot for a deer camp as this area is known for excellent hunting or a secluded cabin in the woods. This property is currently without access, but one could obtain an easement.

MLS 6107462 $39,900

1142

170+ acres of heavily forested land that has been replanted with many beautiful pine trees, poplar & cedar trees. Features gravel pit and pond and abutting State land. Seller is licensed real estate agent in MN.

MLS 6102798 $149,900

3XX East 5th St.

Here is an affordable place to build a home or a vacation getaway right in Grand Marais. City water & sewer and a paved street make it convenient and cost effective.

sold

MLS 6105272 $64,900

NORTHERN WILDS MAY 2023 41 ©2022 Coldwell Banker Real Estate LLC. All Rights Reserved. Coldwell Banker® and the Coldwell Banker Logo are registered service marks owned by Coldwell Banker Real Estate LLC. Coldwell Banker Real Estate LLC fully supports the principles of the Fair Housing Act and the Equal Opportunity Act. Each office is independently owned and operated. Coldwell Banker and the Coldwell Banker Logo are registered service marks owned by Coldwell Banker Real Estate LLC. www.cbnorthshore.com 101 West highway 61 grand marais, mn 55604 218-387-2131 800-732-2131 LAND X13 Murphy Mountain Trail
TBD Cedar Grove Lane Grow your commercial enterprise on this 1.44A lot. Paved road, city water
sewer,
driveway
partial building pad. Establish your business and even your personal residence. Lake Superior view. MLS 6105372 $69,900 Jonvick Creek Sites 3 lots from 1.5 - 4.8 acres In the heart of Lutsen, just off the Caribou Trail. Maples, Pines, and cedars in varied arrangements will make a great back-drop for your home or cabin. Sites adjoin public land. $44,900 - $56,900 sold pending 1X
&
electric,
and
Brandon Lane 49XX North Road Camp 20 Rd

team of real estate professionals on the North Shore – helping buyers and sellers with luxury homes, commercial properties and everything in between.

And when it comes to your client experience, Coldwell Banker North Shore’s customer service-focused team is here to serve.

When you’re ready to buy or sell a new home or commercial property, contact us to discuss the current conditions and how it impacts your bottom line. Give us a call, email or even drop in. We can’t wait to be of service!

42 MAY 2023 NORTHERN WILDS ©2022 Coldwell Banker Real Estate LLC. All Rights Reserved. Coldwell Banker® and the Coldwell Banker Logo are registered service marks owned by Coldwell Banker Real Estate LLC. Coldwell Banker Real Estate LLC fully supports the principles of the Fair Housing Act and the Equal Opportunity Act. Each office is independently owned and operated. Coldwell Banker and the Coldwell Banker Logo are registered service marks owned by Coldwell Banker Real Estate LLC. www.cbnorthshore.com
50 YEARS OF HELPING YOU FIND HOME 101 WEST HIGHWAY 61 GRAND MARAIS, MN 55604 MONDAY — FRIDAY 8:30 A.M. TO 4:30 P.M. SATURDAY 9A.M. TO 1 P.M. • Free Market Analysis • Virtual Tours • 360 Degree Photographs • Personalized Marketing Plan • Fully-Staffed Office for Quick Service • Representation Along Entire North Shore AS YOUR HOMETOWN TEAM, WE OFFER: ©2022 Coldwell Banker Real Estate LLC. All Rights Reserved. Coldwell Banker® and the Coldwell Banker Logo are registered service marks owned by Coldwell Banker Real Estate LLC. Coldwell Banker Real Estate LLC fully supports the principles of the Fair Housing Act and the Equal Opportunity Act. Each office is independently owned and operated. Coldwell Banker and the Coldwell Banker Logo are registered service marks owned by Coldwell Banker Real Estate LLC. Virginia Detrick Palmer BROKER | OWNER | REALTOR ® 218-370-0211 Julie Joynes Carlson REALTOR ® 218-370-8068 Kali Blomberg REALTOR ® 218-370-9260 Rick Austin REALTOR ® 218-370-0784 REALTOR ® 218-370-1362 Jean Spry REALTOR ® 218-370-0661 Agne Smith REALTOR ® 218-370-1389 Aimee Luick LICENSED ASSISTANT 218-387-2131 CBNORTHSHORE.COM CONTACT OUR TEAM — CALL TODAY 218.387.2131

LAKE SUPERIOR PROPERTIES

INLAND WATER PROPERTIES

SALE PENDING

WATERFRONT COMMERCIAL PROPERTY

Beautiful waterfront commercial property in downtown district of Grand Marais, which includes 2 apartments overlooking Lake Superior, and a retail/rental business. Also included in the sale is a 5 acre parcel on County Road 7, with a 52' x 42' warehouse for boat and other inventory storage and deliveries.

MLS#6103262 $1,950,000

INLAND WATER PROPERTIES

SALE PENDING

HOME WITH SPARKLING WATER & SUNSETS

Custom built, single level lake home on pristine Wilson Lake. Known for crystal clear water and excellent walleye fishing.

Tucked deep inside the Superior National Forest, you can relax in the peaceful beauty of a BWCA-like experience. But here, you enjoy the modern conveniences of a four season, wheelchair accessible lake home with fiber optic internet. One level living, large great room, three bedrooms, two accessible bathrooms with roll-in showers, in-floor heat, slate and wood flooring, attached heated garage, and large deck and boardwalk down to the lake and fire pit. Open floor plan offers space for gathering along with two separate wings for privacy. Large windows throughout the home offer a panoramic view of the natural beauty surrounding the property.

MLS#6107163 $679,900

Looking for that true “up-north” lake log cabin that renders privacy on a pristine inland lake away from road noise but offers tons of year-round activities and necessities all close by - look no further! This cozy and efficient log home has SO much to offer. Open living space in front of the wood stove to gather, with add’l rec room and bedroom in the basement with in-floor heat. Enjoy evenings “mosquito free” in the 12 x 28 3-season porch. A short path to your private beach on Pike Lake with a maintenance free DAKA dock.

MLS#6107278 $525,000

HOMES & CABINS

SOLD

TRI-PLEX

This property was a single family home that has been converted into three, long-term rental units, and has a strong rental history. It could be kept as is to continue providing housing for the residents and workforce of Cook County, or converted back to a single family home. All three units are currently occupied on month to month leases. 24 hour minimum advance notice for showings is required.

MLS#6106929

COMMERCIAL

WILDERNESS LAKE ISLAND HOME

Live off-grid with comfort and spectacular scenery on a 6.82 acre island on Greenwood Lake, Minnesota's highest lake. Most of the 2000 ft shoreline is US Forest Service land. It's a jewel and you get the protection of your own island, offering isolation, wilderness views and wildlife. Comfortable small home is set up for your retreat lifestyle. Present owners built the home and large shop building with guest quarters, and have lived on the island for 15+ years. Off grid solar, generator power, new peat-moss septic system, lake water and satellite provide the comforts you desire. Air boat, pontoon and fishing boats included, providing access with a protective cove & docks for easy landing/loading. MLS#6104980 $595,000

HUGE

PINES,

PRISTINE VIEWS, GUNFLINT LAKE

This large, densely wooded lot has 171 feet of shoreline on big water Gunflint Lake. Direct BWCA access, huge white pines, classic wilderness boulder shore and vast views of Canada across the lake. Nice building site with easy access to the water. Good year-round road access with power and Broadband at the parcel. Build your dream lake home on this outstanding lake lot. MLS#6099440 $284,900

HOMES & CABINS

PEACEFUL HAVEN

Enjoy a peaceful haven only 20 minutes from Grand Marais with all the comforts of home.

MULTI-USE PROPERTY HOVLAND

2.3 acre property has great home site with lake views, great well & septic, and an existing structure used as a local store & food business. New patio in 2008 & new addition in 2010. Many options exist, from residential, rental, cottage industry, retail shop or continue its present use. Perfect set up for a move-to-the-Shore life change. Bring your idea & start the dream from here.

MLS#6103739 $379,900,

MLS#6104735 $479,900 (Includes existing business)

SALE PENDING

Stay in and enjoy the park-like setting with Myhr Creek lazing its way along the north and east side of the acreage. Within 3 miles of the home are the Brule River, Judge CR Magney State Park and the historical Naniboujou Lodge. Venture farther up the highway for a view of the high falls at the Pigeon River or an evening at Grand Portage. 3 bedroom, 2 bath home with a heated garage. High quality broadband, vaulted beamed ceilings, open floor plan with main level master suite MLS#6106674 $374,900

LUTSEN COMMERCIAL SITE

Lutsen "downtown" location. Hwy 61 frontage-road access, 3.3 acres and 389 feet of frontage overlooking the highway, with some limited Lake Superior views. Nice creek borders the east property line, mature evergreen forest. Great location for retail, restaurant or art gallery with great visibility off the North Shore Scenic Highway. LTGC zone district (Lutsen Town Center General Commercial) allows many options. Three separate lots could be split. Located just minutes from Lutsen Mountains Ski Area, Superior National Golf Course, many lodges and recreational opportunities. MLS#6105204 $220,000

NORTHERN WILDS MAY 2023 43 REALTORS®: Mike Raymond, Broker • Cathy Hahn, Assoc. Broker, ABR/GRI. Larry Dean, Realtor • Jake Patten, Realtor • Jess Smith, Realtor • Sue Nichols, Assoc. Broker • Gail J. Englund, GRI (218) 387-9599 • Fax (218) 387-9598 • info@RedPineRealty.com PO Box 938, 14 S. Broadway, Grand Marais, MN 55604 Red Pine Realty • (800) 387-9599 www.RedPineRealty.com • Locally owned and operated since 1996 • info@RedPineRealty.com
HOME PENDING! PIKE LAKE LOG CABIN

RIVER/CREEK FRONTAGE

RIVER/CREEK FRONTAGE LAND/BUILDING SITES

WOODED 64 ACRES –ACCESS TO PRIVATE LAKE

CASCADE RIVER FRONTAGE LOT

This is a rare opportunity to purchase one of the very few privately owned lots on the scenic Cascade River! Over 440 feet of private river frontage offers peaceful calm and gives rise to creative dreaming. Build an off-grid compound with rustic cabins or a custom log home, or keep it wild for camping. There's plenty of space here to spread out with 26.6 acres, and seemingly endless public land to the south and west for hiking, hunting and other north woods enthusiasm.

MLS#6105797 $350,000

POND, WILDLIFE & TWENTY ACRES

This property has private access to Lost Lake as a bonus! Good road access and many building site options. Beautiful beaver pond and creek split the property. Good south exposure and view of the pond. Lost Lake is a tucked-away gem with limited private property and no public access. Good trout fishing and moose sightings. This is a remote retreat property with access to miles of trails. Seasonal road, off-grid now, but power and Broadband are slated to be installed here soon.

MLS#6098652 $41,900

LAND/BUILDING SITES

This large wooded retreat property is within walking distance to a shared landing on Lost Lake - a private access lake. Good road access and many nice places to build a cabin. Privacy on top of restricted private road access makes this a unique opportunity for wilderness seclusion. MLS#6103974 $59,900

PEACEFUL TAIT LAKE PINES

You'll appreciate the private & peaceful 1.93 acre location in Lutsen, MN, complete with its own hiking trails, outstanding views, finely maintained roads, year-round accessibility, access to power, a calm overall vibe and deeded lake access to Tait Lake! One of the most gorgeous drives one can find, up the Caribou Trail and around Tait Lake. Close to the Superior Hiking Trail, inland lakes, including BWCAW access & trails, Lutsen Ski Resort, Superior National Golf Course and access to food/beverage. MLS#6106368 $55,000

MONS CREEK AND VIEWS

1000 ft of Mons Creek frontage & a great view from a high build site. Easy road access, but lots of privacy. 40 acre property w/ private deeded access to Lost Lake, a short drive away. Private lake w/ limited use, a true wilderness feel. Perfect cabin retreat location w/ added bonus of private wilderness lake access. Homeowners association stocks lake w/ brook trout. Walk-in landing provides easy access for canoe or small boat. Roads are gated for security & privacy. Lost Lake Retreats is a truly secluded & private wilderness escape.

LOOKING FOR WILDERNESS?

MLS#6089090 $60,000

Are you among those who want to own remote acreage where your neighbors don’t tarnish your dream? 40 acre parcel within a 1100 acre unit, bordered by federal, state park and private ownership on parcels which cannot be less than 20 acres.

LARGE, REMOTE ACREAGE –PRIVATE LAKE RIGHTS

This over 80-acre tract has some high ground with views of the hills to the south. Good road access. Some young planted pine trees. It adjoins a Private Conservation Easement area. The property is part of a private association with lake rights to Lost Lake, a limited access lake with shared carry-in landing from which you can launch your canoe or kayak. A unique opportunity.

MLS#6103975 $74,900

SALE PENDING

Unique property extends north from Lost Lake Rd to a creek meandering through a large wetland with no development in sight. Launch your canoe below a great building site overlooking Mons Creek from a high point above the creek. New trail is cut to this overlook. Private deeded access to Lost Lake, a short walk south on a trail. Homeowners’ association has defined covenants & a conservation easement of 44 acres along the south side of Lost Lake prohibiting any development. Lake is a natural environment lake with 150 ft setbacks.

MLS#6089091 $52,900

40 ACRES–STONES

THROW TO TOM LAKE

40 acres with an easy walk to the Tom Lake boat landing. Year-round road to within 1000 feet, power is possible here. Driveway easement granted to build shared access. Many great building sites. Easy access to trails and other lakes.

MLS#6095114 $60,000

TAIT LAKE PINE LOT

Welcome to Tait Lake Pines! You'll appreciate the private & peaceful location in Lutsen, MN, complete with its own hiking trails, outstanding views/settings, finely maintained roads, year-round accessibility, access to power, a calm and serene overall vibe AND deeded lake access to Tait Lake!! It'll keep you close to the Superior Hiking Trail, many more inland lakes and trails, Lutsen Ski Resort, Superior National Golf Course & access to food/beverage.

MLS#6098276 $54,900

44 MAY 2023 NORTHERN WILDS REALTORS®: Mike Raymond, Broker • Cathy Hahn, Assoc. Broker, ABR/GRI. Larry Dean, Realtor • Jake Patten, Realtor • Jess Smith, Realtor • Sue Nichols, Assoc. Broker • Gail J. Englund, GRI (218) 387-9599 • Fax (218) 387-9598 • info@RedPineRealty.com PO Box 938, 14 S. Broadway, Grand Marais, MN 55604 Red Pine Realty • (800) 387-9599 www.RedPineRealty.com • Locally owned and operated since 1996 • info@RedPineRealty.com

REMOTE 43 ACRES –LOST LAKE ACCESS

This secluded 43 acres adjoins federal land and is located on a private gated road. There's a seasonal pond, existing "logging" road into the property for immediate use of the land. The property comes with shared private access to Lost Lake, a lake with no public access. Plenty of privacy!

MLS#6103978 $46,900

BRULE VALLEY LOTS

REMOTE PEACE & QUIET, PRIVATE LAKE ACCESS

GREAT LOCATION FOR HOME OR CABIN

Just minutes west of Grand Marais on a black-top county road with power at the site, Broadband nearby. Five acre parcel with southern exposure. Potential Lake Superior views. Very affordable building site!

MLS#6096700 $45,900

REMOTE ACREAGE, ADJOINING FOREST LANDSPRIVATE LAKE RIGHTS

This 43 acre tract has adjoining federal land and state park within walking distance. Good road access, with an old "logging road" into the property. The property is part of a private association with lake rights to Lost Lake, a limited access lake with shared carry-in landing from which you can launch your canoe or kayak. A unique opportunity.

MLS#6103979 $46,900

These remote, off-grid parcels with deeded access to the Brule River could be your own seasonal retreat; whether you're looking for a place to pitch a tent for a few nights, or if you want to build your dream cabin, there is a good canvas here for your creation!

Lot B (40ac) MLS#6102969 $43,000; Lot C (42.82ac) MLS#6102971 $46,000; Lot D (43.82ac) MLS#6102970 $44,000

GREAT LOCATION

HOME SITE. Just minutes from Grand Marais on black top County Rd 7, a 5+ acre lot with easy access to power and Broadband. Good building sites. MLS#6094099 $45,900

Hide away in this dense forest, with miles of remote trails to explore, and private lake access to Lost Lake. Twenty acres of rolling topography and nice building sites for your cabin retreat. The area is part of an association with gated access to Lost Lake, a limited private property lake with no public access, and great trout fishing and wildlife viewing! MLS#6098653 $39,900

REMOTE, END-OF-THE-ROAD PRIVACY

This deeply wooded 20 acre parcel is remote and has nice southerly exposure and creek frontage on Mons Creek, a trout stream. It also comes with deeded access to Lost Lake, a private access lake with limited private property. A place to fish, listen to the loons and watch the sun set. The private area is gated and maintained by an association. The main road access is seasonal, but Broadband and power are slated to come here soon. This is a great area for ATV’s with miles of roads to explore.

MLS#6098654 $38,900

NORTHERN WILDS MAY 2023 45
• Locally owned and operated since 1996 • info@RedPineRealty.com LAND/BUILDING SITES
www.RedPineRealty.com
46 MAY 2023 NORTHERN WILDS
Vacation Rentals.
Larson,
Broker
IS WHAT MIKEY SAYS: LOOKING for DIRECTION? We can help! DO N O R TH MEET OUR AWESOME TEAM DO N O RTH MOLLY O’NEILL | Agent (218) 370-2079 molly@lustenrealestategroup.com INGER ANDRESS | Agent (218) 216-7141 inger@lustenrealestategroup.com MIKE LARSON | Associate Broker (218) 370-1536 mike@staycvr.com STEVE SURBAUGH | Broker STEPHANIE DRISKELL | Agent (218) 206-5374 stephanie@lutsenrealestategroup.com Are we the Best? You bet we are. Call one of our agents today and you will discover, hands down, why we are the best.
I have never worked with such an OUTSTANDING TEAM of real estate professionals in my 35 years of real estate like our current team at Lutsen Real Estate Group and Cascade
NEVER. —Mike
Associate
HERE

HERE ARE YOUR NEXT STEPS:

LOOKING TO SELL?

Reach out about our Free Market Analysis.

LOOKING TO BUY?

No time better than the present.

JUST STARTING?

No problem...we are here to help you navigate both the buying and selling process.

FREE MARKET ANALYSIS

Give one of our “Awesome Agents” a call today to learn more about why it remains a good time to sell. Our team of experts will provide you with a FREE Market Analysis on your home and/or property and outline why Lutsen Real Estate Group is your BEST CHOICE when considering listing your home for sale.

Looking to buy a property for a vacation rental? Through our sister company, Cascade Vacation Rentals, we have gained incredible knowledge about what North Shore visitors are looking for. We are happy to use that information to help guide you in purchasing a property that is not only a good fit for you, but will also increase your chances of high rental income.

NORTHERN WILDS MAY 2023 47
CASCADEVACATIONRENTALS.COM

NEW! DREAMY LOCATION WITH BAPTISM RIVER FRONTAGE!

With 19+ Acres and 565ft of shoreline along the Baptism River you will love quietness of it all. Set up to be completely off grid with 100% solar and propane generator as back up you will be amazed how relaxed you feel as you walk in! 3 bedrooms and 2 bathrooms with beautiful views of the woods from every room. Wood Burning Fireplace in the Great Room with vaulted ceilings adds to the ambiance and the 3 season porch is the icing on the cake. Perfect spot for enjoying those beautiful summer days without bugs! Even a Detached 2 car garage for storing all your toys! You can snowmobile right from your front door or create boardwalks down to the river and enjoy the silence. Visit Today!

MLS#6107384 $385,000

SALE PENDING

NORTH WOODSY LAKE HOME NEAR FINLAND!

Enjoy this Fabulous vacation or year-round home at Ninemile Lake! This 3 bedroom home doesn’t disappoint with floor to ceiling windows and vaulted ceilings in the Great Room, a spacious Kitchen and even a covered porch this home has everything you need to relax and unwind! Shared access to 1800ft of shoreline on Ninemile lake and close to close to many inland lakes, plus direct access to snowmobile, ATV and hiking trails means you can enjoy all your favorite outdoor activities! Visit today and start planning your summer Up North!

MLS#6107181 $429,000

SALE PENDING SOLD

WELCOME TO UP NORTH LAKE LIVING!

Ten minutes to the Lake Superior Harbor of Grand Marais! Devil Track Lake is where you want to be for lake fun along the North Shore! Enjoy lakeside dining at the Raven’s Rock Grille, and lots of open water for recreating! In addition to a two-car attached garage, there’s a tasteful 3 stall detached to store your toys situated off a black top driveway. Prime South facing Shoreline, and plenty of it with 300 ft & 3 acres, RARE FIND! Super well-maintained home, you will have fun updating it to your own style! Gorgeous Lake views, vaulted ceilings, large kitchen, huge primary bedroom w/ en suite.

MLS#6104817 $859,900

A talented architect sensed the qualities of this place and he brought his vision of a getaway, a place of respite, a polished agate of a log home, to life. With two bedrooms, one bath and a living room with commanding views over all that cool fresh water. A den downstairs that walks out to the shore and a billiards room featuring a table hand-crafted by the architect. There’s more, The log workshop/studio is inspiring and it even has a one stall garage. Move to the east along the trellised walkway to arrive at the log sauna. Wander the land and see why the architect and peregrines enjoy it. From corner to corner there is 450+ feet of frontage along the big lake. Charming Schroeder is nearby, about a half mile to Sugarloaf Cove Interpretive Center, skiing and golf at Lutsen 15 minutes. Though, staying put is the mode of this place: cribbage, fires in the gorgeous wood stoves, billiards tournament, a sauna. Arriving here feels like stepping into a dream, into a childhood vision – an archetype of Gitche Gummi Getaway. MLS#6106795 $1,250,000

48 MAY 2023 NORTHERN WILDS Call TimberWolff for Your Personal Tour of Homes & Land!!! Local (218) 663-8777 Toll free (877) 664-8777 Info@TimberWolffRealty.com 7th Annual Lutsen Block Party June 16, 5-7 Everyone is Welcome! Live Music! Free Food! FIND THOSE NEW LISTINGS FIRST!! EMAIL INFO@TIMBERWOLFFREALTY.COM TO SIGN UP FOR AUTO EMAIL! WATER, WATER, WATER AND THE BIG LAKE!
PEREGRINE AERIE AT RAVENCLIFF ON LAKE SUPERIOR!
NEW!

NEW! SOAK IN THE HARBOR VIEWS FROM THIS GRAND MARAIS HOME!

Walk in and feel at home, from the large kitchen to the Great Room with vaulted ceilings. Maybe it’s the 4 bedrooms you can imagine full with family or friends, or the Kitchen and Dining room space that you see being used for get togethers. This home checks all the boxes from Storage to detached garage. Relax in the Great Room and soak up the sunshine while the Free-standing Fireplace crackles in the background. Or create a reading nook in the Loft and watch the harbor while you unwind. Walk outside and enjoy the large deck and all the work the previous owners put into the landscaping. From Maple trees to Honey Crisp Apple Trees and many perennial flowers that will keep fresh flowers on your table all summer. Ask agent about the Solar Panels that have basically eliminated the Electric bills for the current owners. Visit today and make the Up North Dream your reality!

MLS# 6107430 $535,000

SALESPERSON

MLS# 6106877 $539,000

PRICE REDUCED

RAVEN’S RIDGE!

MLS#6106476 $675,000

NORTHERN WILDS MAY 2023 49 Call TimberWolff for Your Personal Tour of Homes & Land!!! Local (218) 663-8777 Toll free (877) 664-8777 Info@TimberWolffRealty.com 7th Annual Lutsen Block Party June 16, 5-7 Everyone is Welcome! Live Music! Free Food! VISIT US AT TIMBERWOLFFREALTY.COM CHECK OUT OUR WEEKLY BLOG AND FACEBOOK POSTS OF FUN TIMES ON THE NORTH SHORE! HOMES, HOMES, HOMES, READ ALL ABOUT ‘EM!! NORWAY PINE LOG HOME IN GRAND MARAIS! MLS#6105152 $499,000 SOLD BEAUTIFUL NEW CONSTRUCTION HOME IN GRAND MARAIS! Enjoy everything Grand Marais has to offer in this NEW home! Welcoming interior, bright and sunny with tons of windows! Open living room lined with large windows and patio door allowing for lots of natural light to flow through the room. Open concept design, the kitchen island anchors the space and the gorgeous stone fireplace is a beautiful focal point to the Kitchen and Living spaces. Bright Kitchen, awesome pantry, and coffee counter, you’ll love the kitchen! Main level has 2 bedrooms convenient to hallway bath with custom shower and double sink, as well as an office/craftsroom. Upper level is a large owners en suite with skylights! PROPERTY IS OWNED BY A LICENSED REAL ESTATE
SOLD

CAMPN’, HUNTN’, FUN GETAWAY LAND, INVEST IN YOUR FUTURE!

FINLAND AREA

NEW! BUILD YOUR VACATION GETAWAY AT NINEMILE LAKE!

.18 acres with 1800ft of shared shoreline on Ninemile Lake! With septic, water and electric all on site all you have to do is hook up to it! Easily start your project and be able to enjoy your time Up North!

MLS#6107242 $60,000

NEW! LAKE VIEW LOT! GREAT OPPORTUNITY TO BUILD A LAKE HOME AT THE VILLAGE AT NINEMILE!

Fish the day away from the 1800ft of shared shoreline on Ninemile Lake or travel to one of the many inland lakes that are close by. Snowmobile from your front door! All the important infrastructure is there: Septic, water and electricityall you have to do is hook up to it! Start making your dream Up North home a reality today!

MLS#6107243 $60,000

NEW! START ENJOYING YOUR INLAND LAKE DREAM AT THE THE VILLAGE AT NINEMILE!

This .60 acre lot was recently created by combining two lots so it offers plenty of room to build your dream cabin or home with an amazing lake view and direct lake access! Great opportunity for the outdoor enthusiast with snowmobile and ATV trails right outside your door! 1800ft of shared lake frontage on Ninemile Lake and infrastructure in place for Septic, Well and Electricity, all you have to do is hook up to it. You will be ready to relax and unwind before you know it!

MLS#6107241 $150,000

TOFTE AREA

LAKE SUPERIOR VIEW LOT IN THE MIDDLE OF TOFTE!

This 3.61 acre lot is a dreamy location to build your North Shore home. With multiple south-facing building sites giving you great views of Lake Superior, electricity conveniently located at the road and Year Round accessible thanks to the Home Owner’s Association you will be able to build your getaway and enjoy it in all the seasons. There is quick access to snowmobile trails, many hiking trails and Cross Country skiing all close by. Visit today and make your dream of a North Shore Home a reality!

MLS#6107193 $149,900

LUTSEN AREA

SPECTACULAR VIEWS OF LAKE SUPERIOR!

Rugged terrain leading to Gorgeous Vistas overlooking Lake Superior! Enjoy the wilderness nicely tucked below the highway, with easy access to the North Shore bike Trail for you to enjoy walking or biking to your hearts content. Year round access, electric at the street and views up and down the shoreline all day long! minutes from Lutsen Mountains, Superior National Golf Course in the heart of Tofte!

MLS#6106770 $99,000 SALE

BEAUTIFUL OLD PINES AND VIEWS OF TAIT LAKE, THE SURROUNDING FOREST, AND ALL THE WAY TO EAGLE MOUNTAIN!

This 5+ acre lot is a Northwoods gem. A diversity of tree species creates a lovely sylvan vibe with plenty of elbow room. The lot comes with deeded access to Tait Lake at two landings: one peaceful and just right for a canoe or kayak or a developed ramp for a bit of evening cruising in a motor boat. Select a building site along the south line of the lot to maximize the views. Not far from Lutsen, about a half hour to Grand Marais, yet a feeling of being deep in the woods. Come have a look, do a walkabout and fall in love with your own acreage Up North!

MLS#6103685 $79,000

LUTSEN AREA

NICE PARCEL IN THE HEART OF LUTSEN!

Great place to build your dream cabin or permanent home, with plenty of space to enjoy the quiet woods atmosphere. Close to all Lutsen has to offer and many inland lakes in the area which are a quick drive away. There is year round accessibility via association road. Visit today and start planning your dream getaway!

MLS#6102890 $94,900

LUTSEN BUILD SITES WITH SHARED SEPTIC AND WELL JUST WAITING FOR YOUR LITTLE CABIN IDEAS! Looking for a site to build without spending an arm and a leg? These sites are it! Well and Septic in place, just Build and Enjoy!

MLS#2309328 $39,000

GRAND MARAIS AREA

BEAUTIFUL 15 ACRES NEAR GRAND MARAIS! Bordering National Forest to the south you will have plenty of space to explore! Parcel has been surveyed and corners are flagged. Dreamy building spot near a group of pine trees, even a bubbly creek to create a magical setting!

MLS#6103293 $129,000

ENJOY BIG VIEWS OF LAKE SUPERIOR FROM THIS GORGEOUS PARCEL, JUST MINUTES WEST OF GRAND MARAIS!

5+ acres gives you room to build your dream getaway but close enough Grand Marais to enjoy everything town has to offer!

MLS#6103292 $129,000

50 MAY 2023 NORTHERN WILDS Call TimberWolff for Your Personal Tour of Homes & Land!!! Local (218) 663-8777 Toll free (877) 664-8777 Info@TimberWolffRealty.com 7th Annual Lutsen Block Party June 16, 5-7 Everyone is Welcome! Live Music! Free Food!
CHECK OUT OUR NEW LOCALLY CRAFTED TIMBERWOLFF WEBSITE, SEARCH ALL MLS LISTINGS AT TIMBERWOLFFREALTY.COM
SALE PENDING SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD

CATCHLIGHT CATCHLIGHT

red-winged blackbird

On a sunny spring day, while attempting to photograph loons along a northern Minnesota lakeshore, I came across this fledgling red-winged blackbird that had recently left the nest. The young bird—fuzzy punk hairdo and all—was framed nicely by newly emerged cattail stems while it waited for its parents to deliver food.—Bill

NORTHERN WILDS MAY 2023 51

See demos by a Wizards factory rep of all the products in the Wizards line!!

Buffing demos, cleaning demos, detailing advice, metal polish’s, leather cleaners and moisturizing products!!!

We also have products to keep matte and denim paint looking like new!!

See the new Wizards Select Pro System!!!! A body shops dream for fast cut and no swirling, EVEN ON BLACK FINISHES!

Wizards Products is a Minnesota-made company from Hanover, Minnesota

Bring

We are looking for vintage car, classic car, hot rod, street rod, rat rod pro built, exotics, motorcycles (vintage and new) and show bikes.

Wizards will be happy to demonstrate on anything from a Model T to a McLaren!!!! And any motorcycle!!

Any car’s headlights can look like new.

We can also show you what the “big throw” can do on faded paint

If you are a body shop pro, restoration specialist, show car owner, motorcycle lover and owner, or you just want to keep your everyday drive looking good you should attend!!!!!

COOK COUNTY DELIVERY Get what you need, when you need it. Free Shipping and Store Pickup. Shop Local Online: acehardware.com Mon - Fri: 7 am - 5 pm • Sat: 8 am - 2 pm 1413 E. Hwy 61, Grand Marais • 218-387-1771  Toll-free 1-877-387-1771 Thousands of items available www.acehardware.com - Shop Online and Get Free Shipping to our store! COOK COUNTY HOME CENTER WIZARDS DEMO DAY with Cars, Bikes and Coffee! At Cook County Home Center 1413 E Highway 61 Grand Marais
May 27 8AM to 2PM
Saturday,
Free Headlight Restoration Free Scratch and Rub Removal
AND COFFEE ALL DAY LONG!
CARS
your lawn chair and enjoy the cars and motorcycles!!
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