Northern Wilds

Feb-Mar 2012 VOL 9, ISSUE 1 For People Who Love the North

Winter Camping Made Easy + Gear Guide

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Northern Wilds is also available by subscription.

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NORTHERN WILDS February-March 2012

everything you need to enjoy the

NORTH SHORE outdoors this winter!

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NORTHERN WILDS February-March 2012

from the editors

FEATURES

Gunflint 'Home' for German Couple 9

Dancing with La Niña

“We tried to make fire, but the only thing that happened was the smoke detector made an unbelievable noise”

La Niña has been kind to the Northern Wilds this winter--perhaps too kind. Winter temperatures have been well above normal, while snowfalls are far below the norm. In mid-January, the annual Beargrease Sled Dog Marathon was canceled due to lack of snow at its Duluth starting point.

Cross-Country Kids 10

Field-tested tips for wrangling rug rats on skis

Warm Up to Winter Camping 12

A complete guide

Extreme Streams 18

One part Nordic tour, one part downhill slalom, all parts adventure

Low-Snow Sledding 20

About our cover:

The Accidental Gardener 24 Book Reviews 25 Starwatch 25 Strange Tales 26 Campfire Stories 27

Gaby Würth and Werner Bahner of Freiburg, Germany relax at Golden Eagle Lodge on the Gunfl int Trail. | COURTESY OF GABY WÜRTH AND WERNER BAHNER

In this issue, you’ll find information about a ton of things to do, from organized events like the Ely Winter Festival, Cook County Winter Tracks and Thunder Bay’s Sleeping Giant Loppet to do-it-yourself adventures like ice climbing in Nipigon or taking your children skiing.

This is a great time to try winter camping. You’ll find a complete guide to get you started. We even have some tips on winter outdoor cookery from Gord Ellis, our resident chef and jackpine savage.

Take a cue from our cover couple, Gaby Würth and Werner Bahner of Freiburg, Germany, who are shown kicked back and enjoying the sunshine at Golden Eagle Lodge on the Gunflint Trail. Get outside. Have fun. And enjoy this wonderful La Niña winter.

—Shawn Perich and Amber Pratt

Got Photos? We’d love to see shots of you and your family out and April/May Advertising Deadline: March 7, 2012 about in the Northern Wilds. Send to editor@northernwilds.com.

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Winter--real winter, that is--can only get better. We’ve made it through January, which is typically the coldest month of the year.

There’s more sunshine now and the days are getting longer, inviting us to spend time outside. We’re keeping our fingers crossed that more snow is coming, too.

But La Niña hasn’t been all bad news. Much of the Northern Wilds has enough snow to enjoy winter activities. Cross-country skiers are flocking to the Gunflint Trail, where more than a foot of snow blankets

DEPARTMENTS

Copyright 2011 All rights reserved Advertising rates and publishing schedules are available.

the forest. Ice anglers are enjoying warm days, easy travel conditions and better-than-average fishing for all species. Backcountry hikers are enjoying the opportunity to explore places on and off hiking trails.

Mushers aren’t the only ones feeling the pain of a snowless winter.

Many snowmobile trails are in rough shape, if open at all. Downhill ski operations are relying on manmade snow. You can find some groomed cross-country ski trails, though some ski events have been rescheduled.

What to do when suffering from Snow Deficit Disorder North Notes 4 Calendar & Events 7 Through My Lens 16 Canadian Trails 17 Miss Guided 22 Product Reviews 23

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PUBLISHERS Shawn Perich & Amber Pratt EDITORS Shawn Perich, Editor Shelby Gonzalez, Managing Editor editor@northernwilds.com shelby@northernwilds.com OFFICE Bev Wolke GRAPHIC DESIGN Breanna Super billing@northernwildsmedia.com breanna@northernwilds.com

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ADVERTISING Amber Pratt, Advertising Manager, apratt@northernwilds.com CONTRIBUTORS

Elle Andra-Warner, Werner Bahner, Lee Boyt, Eric Chandler, Gord Ellis, Joan Farnam, Michael Furtman, Mike Hillman, Art Laframboise, Deane Morrison, Amber Pratt, Kate Watson, Lucas Will, Gaby Würth Copyright 2011 by Northern Wilds Media, Inc. Published six times per year. Subscription rate is $15 per year or $28 for 2 years. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part requires written permission from the publisher.

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NORTHERN WILDS February-March 2012

MEGA TRAIL Coming Soon Sometimes dreams come true. The Duluth-based organization Cyclists of Gitchee Gumee (COGGS) has been awarded a $250,000 Legacy grant from the state of Minnesota to build a 100-mile multi-use single-tracked trail in Duluth.

Northern Wilds reported on COGGS’s ambitious plan last summer (“Singletrack Paradise,” Aug/Sept. 2011). The trail system, called the Duluth Traverse, will connect and expand the four existing trail systems (Hartley Park, Piedmont, Lester-Amity and Spirit Mountain) to allow easy access for people throughout the city. More information at www.coggs.com.

COURTESY OF ALBERT HARDY

Not Playing

OPOSSUM By the Numbers MACNEIL LYONS/NPS

What’s Next for WOLVES? Minnesota’s gray wolves were removed from the federal government’s threatened species list and returned to state management in January. The Minnesota DNR has since announced that a “limited” wolf hunting and trapping season could happen as early as late 2012.

Minnesota is home to about 3,000 gray

Almost ten million people visited Ontario’s provincial parks in 2011—an increase of 50,000 visitors from the year before.

wolves, the largest population in the lower 48 states. (The management plan establishess 00 a minimum population of 1,600 ne to wolves.) State law allows anyone take a wolf to defend human life. Owners of livestock, domestic animals or pets may shoot or destroy wolves that pose an immediate threat to their animals.

An unusual animal has made its way to northwestern Ontario. Virginia opossums are a familiar sight in parts of southern Ontario and the U.S. But northwestern Ontario is well out of the animals’ normal range. That’s why Albert Hardy had to look twice when he found one staring at him in his backyard in Lake Helen First Nation, nea near Nipigon, Ontario.

“It looked like a rat at first,” says Hardy. “That’s what I tho thought it was. Then I noticed it had a pinkish tail. And it had little hands for feet.”

The opossum has been hanging around his home for two months now, Hardy says, possibly living under his heated shed. He’s been leaving apple slices and bread for the animal every night and they are being eaten. He thinks the mild weather and the f feeding have helped it survive. “He looks alright. He’s r running around in the snow. I figured he wouldn’t su survive because there is no fur on his feet and his tail p is pretty much bare.”

M Most of Hardy’s neighbours were doubters until they saw the photographic evidence.

“People are shocked when they see the pictures. They go, ‘Ya, that’s a possum.’”—Gord Ellis

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NORTHERN WILDS February-March 2012

NUCLEAR WASTE

for the North Shore?

Will a nuclear waste storage facility be constructed in the Lake Superior Basin? The answer is: possibly. Canada’s Nuclear Waste Management Organization (NWMO) is looking for a site to construct a storage facility where nuclear waste will be buried in rock 500 meters to one kilometer underground. Areas near Lake Superior are geologically suitable for such a facility and some communities on the Canadian North Shore have expressed interest in the project.

Officials from Nipigon, Ontario recently traveled to Toronto and met with representatives of NWMO for a detailed briefing and a tour of the Pickering Waste Management Facility where nuclear waste is being stored on an interim basis. Mayor Richard Harvey emphatically states this does not mean Nipigon tossed its hat in the ring as a potential nuclear storage site.

“Nipigon has not in any way said we want the nuclear waste here,” said Harvey in an interview. “We want to learn more about the process and inform our citizens. The fact we are asking questions doesn’t mean we are moving forward.”

Nipigon leaders decided to learn more about nuclear waste storage after discovering that two neighboring North Shore communities, nearby Red Rock and Schrieber, were investigating the potential of hosting the facility. While it was determined that Red Rock did not have the proper geology for a storage site, Schreiber remains in the running.

Their interest concerns Nipigon, which is located at the northernmost point of Lake Superior. On the edge of town are two bridgess over the mighty Nipigon River, one for the TransCanada Highwayy and the other for the nation’s railroad. There is no other river cross-ing, so nearly all of the goods and people moving across Canadaa must pass this point. If the waste storage facility is located furtherr west, nuclear waste will cross these bridges, too.

For northern communities, becoming the site of the nuclearr d waste facility could be an economic windfall. However, Harvey said he doesn’t think communities, particularly his own, should decidee to enter the site selection process solely on a promise of jobs. “Thee big issue is perception,” he says. “How does it fit with the vision off who we are and where we are going?”

The Nipigon area has been a tourism destination since the 1800s.. e Not long ago, the Canadian government established a Marine Conservation area nearby. The community is in the early stages off o developing a master plan for its marina and waterfront, in part to take advantage of new tourism opportunities. Tourism develop-ment and nuclear waste storage may not be compatible for the community.—Shawn Perich

Geological stability makes the North Shore a candidate for a Canadian nuclear waste site. The town of Nipigon is investigating the ramifications of having a waste site nearby but has not declared official interest. | ART LAFRAMBOISE

Boundary Waters AFTERBURN The effects of last year’s Pagami Creek Wildfire linger in the form of burned areas and restricted access in some parts of the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness (BWCAW). The fire torched over 90,000 acres east of Ely. Some areas, including the Pow Wow Trail, remain

closed to public use. The 2012 permit quotas have been lowered for several entry points.

Permit reservations can be made starting Jan. 25. Details at www.recreation.gov. Information about conditions, closures and quotas at www. fs.usda.gov/superior.

Travel Tip: Border Crossing T To make your land border crossing from C Canada into Minnesota (or vice versa) as sspeedy as possible, make sure you have at least one form of acceptable ID, such as: • Passport • Birth certificate plus state-issued identification card • Passport card

BORDER CROSSING

• NEXUS Trusted Traveler Card • Native American Tribal Photo Identification Card • Indian and Native Affairs Canada (INAC) Card Full list and more information at http://travel. state.gov or www.cbsa.gc.ca.

NORTHERN WILDS February-March 2012

FAMILY FROLICS

Celebrate winter northern-style with these regional festivals

Winter Tracks Festival FEB. 312 VARIOUS LOCATIONS, NORTH SHORE AND GUNFLINT TRAIL WWW.WINTERTRACKS.COM

The Winter Tracks Festival is a 10-day fiesta of familyoriented winter events throughout the North Shore and Gunflint Trail, with ice skating, snowshoe tours, live music, dogsledding, sleigh rides, ice sculptures, and special events like the Lutsen Mountains Family Fun Fest, the Ridge Riders Snowmobile Fun Run, the Easter Seals Snowarama and the Volks Ski 400.

Ely Winter Festival (formerly Voyageur Winter Festival) FEB. 212 ELY  WWW.ELYWINTERFESTIVAL.COM

The Ely Winter Festival boasts several new event offerings this year, in addition to its usual array of family activities.

Brave the Boathouse Winter Classic Triathlon, sponsored by the Boathouse Brewpub and the Ely Nordic Ski Club, or enjoy the adults-only Rotary Club Polar Bear Dance.

Two Harbors Winter Frolic FEB. 1011 TWO HARBORS  WWW.TWOHARBORSWINTERFROLIC.COM

The Two Harbors Winter Frolic is suitable for small kids and big kids alike. Try out the sliding hill, make a s’more on the open fire, watch the Vintage Snowmobiles ride, take a free horse-drawn sleigh ride or participate in the Smoosh or Outhouse Race.

Voyageur Winter Carnival FEB. 1820 FORT WILLIAM  FWHP.CA

The Voyageur Winter Carnival adds a cultural and historical twist to winter festivities. Activities will include snow shoeing, cross-country skiing, a snow tubing hill, carnival games, a snow maze, dogsledding demonstrations, wagon rides, musket shooting, a wintery Nintendo Wii tournament, and ice skating on the Kam River.

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Central Canada Outdoor Show

Winter Arts Festival JAN. 30FEB. 12

FEB. 2426

COOK COUNTY WWW.GRANDMARAISARTCOLONY.ORG

The Winter Arts Festival is comprised of two unique events: the Snow Carving Symposium and Winter Plein Air Painting. The Snow Carving Symposium challenges artists to transform simple blocks of snow into ornate works of art. Winter Plein Air is an adventurous outdoor painting event that takes place at Camp Menogyn on the edge of the BWCAW.

THUNDER BAY WWW.TBCHAMBER.ON.CA

The Central Canada Outdoor Show is a familyfriendly pilgramage for all-season outdoor enthusiasts. Visitors will take in an exhibit hall, seminars and special events. Last year’s events included moose-calling and boat-building contests for kids, BMX demos and fishing seminars.

Sleeping Giant Loppet

Thunder Bay Snowarama

MARCH 3

FEB. 4

SLEEPING GIANT PROVINCIAL PARK WWW.SLEEPINGGIANTLOPPET.CA

GRAND PORTAGE LODGE AND CASINO GRAND PORTAGE WWW.SNOWARAMA.ORG

Snowarama for Easter Seals Kids is the annual snowmobiling fundraising event in support of Ontario´s children and youth with physical disabilities. Come out and enjoy an exhilarating ride on groomed snowmobile trails. Participants will also enjoy a bonfire, spaghetti supper, and a Saturday night dance featuring live entertainment.

This year marks the 35th anniversary of the Loppet. The Woodymakeit Award will make a comeback--with a twist. For 2012, in recognition of the anniversary, every skier to complete 50 km on wood skis will receive an award. There will also be all-ages races and a retro ski fashion contest.

Volks Ski 400 Community Event FEB. 11 COOK COUNTY WWW.VOLKSSKI.COM

Join the Volks Ski 400 during the 2012 Winter Tracks Festival and help collectively tackle all 400 km of North America’s largest groomed trail system in one day. Just select how you want to hit the trails (join a team, form a team or tackle a trail solo), pick a trail section, select a T-shirt size and pay the entry fee. Proceeds will The Hit CBC Radio Show be donated to the Children’s Nature Network.

Vinyl Cafe

with Stuart McLean in Grand Marais, MN 7:00 pm Friday, March 2 at the Arrowhead Center for the Arts

Simply enter “Vinyl Cafe” in the “Find your Tickets” section In association with WTIP North Shore Community Radio www.wtip.org 218-387-1070

Photo by Bruce J. Dynes

Tickets on sale now www.tix.com

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NORTHERN WILDS February-March 2012

Wild Events Calendar FEB 2 Full Moon Snowshoe Hike

6:30 p.m. - 8:30 p.m.

Soudan Underground Mine State Park 218-753-2245

JAN 30 Arrowhead Ultramarathon I-Falls to Fortune Bay Casino www.ArrowheadUltra.com

Carvings on display Feb. 3-12 weather permitting Grand Marais arts@boreal.org

JAN 30ď&#x161;şFEB 5 Winter Plein Air Painting Exhibit

FEB 11 Volks Ski 400

USSA Atmore Memorial FIS Ski Race Spirit Mountain, Duluth (800) 642-6377 www.spiritmt.com

Lutsen Mountains Family Festival

Exhibit on display Feb. 3-12 Grand Marais www.grandmaraisartcolony.org

Lutsen www.lutsen.com

FEB 3ď&#x161;ş12 Winter Tracks

Cook County www.DoNorth.MN

FEB 4 Ridge Riders Snowmobile Fun Run

Grand Marais www.visitcookcounty.com

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Two Harbors www.twoharborswinterfrolic.com

FEB 2ď&#x161;ş12 FEB 3ď&#x161;ş5

Snow Carving Symposium

Two Harbors Winter Frolic

Ely Winter Fest

Ely www.elywinterfestival.com

JAN 30ď&#x161;şFEB 3

FEB 10ď&#x161;ş11

FEB 4 Snowrama

Easter Seals Snowmobile ride Grand Portage www.grandportage.com

FEB 9 Modern Viking Voyages of the Leif Erikson & Roald Amundsen Ships 7-9 p.m.

Canal Park Lodge, Duluth www.lsmma.com

FEB 10 Candlelight Ski and Snowshoe

Jay Cooke State Park, Carlton 218-384-4610

8 a.m.-4 p.m. Cook County 218-387-2788 ext 102 www.DoNorth.MN

Learning to Snowshoe

1 p.m. Gooseberry Falls State Park 218-834-3855

2nd Annual Ely Igloo & Creek Ridge Radar Run Ely www.ely.org

FEB 11ď&#x161;ş12 MCSA Governorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Cup Ski Race

Spirit Mountain, Duluth www.spiritmt.com

FEB 12 White Hurricane: The Great Lakes Worst Storm Ever 7 p.m.Caribou Highlands, Lutsen www.caribouhighlands.com

Big Jig ice Fishing Contest and Festival Pike Lake, Duluth 12-3 p.m. 218-788-2544

FEB 12ď&#x161;ş22 Northern Fibers Retreat

North House Folk School, Grand Marais www.northhouse.org

FEB 15ď&#x161;ş19 46th Annual Duluth Boat Sports Travel and RV Show

Second Annual Northland Outdoors Deer Classic DECC, Duluth Wed-Thurs. 5-10 p.m.

Fri-Sun 11 a.m.-10 p.m. www.shamrockprod.com

FEB 18 Sawtooth International Ski Race 10 a.m. Grand Marais

www.pincushiontrails.org

For more event listings, log on to: www.NorthernWilds.com

www.tb-chamber.on.ca

Grand Marais

FEB 18

FEB 25

MAR 10

Hawg Winter Fishing Contest

Candlelight Snowshoe and Hike

Tour Duluth

FEB 25ď&#x161;ş27

Midwest Masters â&#x20AC;&#x153;Spring Flingâ&#x20AC;? Ski Race

Winton www.ely.org

Sugarbush Trail Association

2012 Candle Light Ski/Hike 6-8 p.m. Oberg Mountain Trailhead Tofte www.sugarbushtrail.org

Learning to Snowshoe Gooseberry Falls State Park 1 p.m. 218-834-3855

Candlelight Ski, Snowshoe and Hike

Gooseberry Falls State Park, 6 p.m.

218-834-3855

FEB 18ď&#x161;ş19 Cook County Ridge Riders-Radar Run

Sat. 8 a.m.-10 p.m.

Hungry Jack Lodge, GunďŹ&#x201A;int Trail 218-387-2788 ext 102 www.DoNorth.MN

FEB 18ď&#x161;ş20 Voyageur Winter Carnival

Old Fort William Historical Park Thunder Bay www.fwhp.ca

FEB 19 Lake Superiorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Most Spectacular Shipwreck

7 p.m. Caribou Highlands, Lutsen www.caribouhighlands.com

FEB 22 New Moon Snowshoe Hike

Soudan Underground Mine State Park 6:30 p.m 218-753-2245

FEB 24ď&#x161;ş25 Colonial Sugar on Snow Finland, MN 10 a.m.-4 p.m.

218-226-4074

FEB 24ď&#x161;ş26 Central Canada Outdoor Show

The Sports Dome, Thunder Bay

Split Rock Lighthouse State Park 6 p.m. 218-226-6377

5th Annual Wolf Track Classic

Ely, Tower and Cook Minnesota wolftrackclassic.com

FEB 26 Free Family Skating Party 3-5 p.m.

DECC, Duluth 218-730-4300

Ski Duluthâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s trails www.duluthxc.com

MAR 10ď&#x161;ş11 Spirit Mountain, Duluth www.spiritmt.com

MAR 15 Antarctica in Black and White: Snow, Ice and Penguins 7- 9 p.m. Canal Park Lodge Duluth www.lsmma.com

FEB 26

MAR 16

Winter Stargazing

St Urhoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Day

7 p.m.Caribou Highlands, Lutsen www.caribouhighlands.com

Finland www.friendsofthe ďŹ nlandcommunity.org

MAR 2

MAR 16ď&#x161;ş18

Snowshoe Tour

12th Annual Inuit Premiere

5 p.m. Spirit Mountain, Duluth www.spiritmt.com

Sivertson Gallery, Grand Marais www.sivertson.com

MAR 2ď&#x161;ş4

MAR 18

Nipigon Ice Climbing Festival

Naturalist Program: Moose

Nipigon www.nipigonicefest.com

MAR 3 Sleeping Giant Loppet

Sleeping Giant Provincial Park Thunder Bay www.sleepinggiantloppet.ca

Duluth Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Expo

9 a.m.-4 p.m. DECC www.duluthwomensexpo.com

MAR 3ď&#x161;ş4 USASA Event

Double Half-Pipe/Slopestyle Spirit Mountain, Duluth www.spiritmt.com

MAR 9ď&#x161;ş11 Chuck Futterer Memorial Open Bonspiel Cook County Curling Club

7 p.m. Caribou Highlands, Lutsen www.caribouhighlands.com

MARCH 30ď&#x161;ş31 Spring Carnival

Papa Charlieâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, Lutsen www.lutsen.com

MAR 30 ď&#x161;ş APRIL 1 Spring Home and Garden Show

CLE Grounds, Thunder Bay 807-622-6473

NORTHERN WILDS February-March 2012

For Two Germans, the Gunflint is “Like Home” Last summer, the Northern Wilds office in Grand Marais had two surprise visitors: Gaby Würth and Werner Bahner of Freiburg, Germany. Longtime readers, they have been visiting the Gunflint Trail since 1996.

Here is their story: “In summer 1996 we travelled through California, where we bought a magazine about crosscountry skiing in the USA. There we saw an advertisement for the Golden Eagle Lodge. We phoned and rented a cabin for the first week of January, 1997. We didn´t know anything about Minnesota.

For preparation we watched the movie "Fargo" and hoped to find as much snow as we saw in the movie. We celebrated New Year in New York, flew to Duluth, rented a car and drove to the Gunflint Trail.

“We were convinced we would stay at a resort with breakfast, lunch and dinner, spa and all comforts of life. We arrived at Golden Eagle at night. There was no snow, and at the cabin we realized that we had to be self-suppliers. We tried to make a fire, but all that happened was the smoke detector made an unbelievable noise. So we slept in the cold cabin.

“If you do cross-country skiing in Germany, you have hundreds of skiiers at the track, it is overcrowded, and the snow is often heavy and wet. But here in Minnesota it is powder and you are nearly alone on the trails. At this moment we fell in love with this part of the world.

Mr. Bahner and Ms. Würth enjoy the lack of crowding on North Shore ski trails. | COURTESY OF WERNER BAHNER AND GABY WÜRTH

“At the next morning we woke up and had a look at the trails: Nearly no snow, a lot of ice. We drove to Grand Marais to have breakfast and try to get the next plane back to Germany… Back in the cabin we were successful in making fire and it was warm and cosy. We had a great dinner at Trail Center and during the night it was snowing and snowing. The next morning there was one foot of fresh-fallen snow! We went out for skiing, it was gorgeous!

“Since this time we come nearly every Christmas/New Year to Golden Eagle. Starting the day with feeding the birds and watching them during breakfast, reading a good book, skiing on the wellprepared tracks or skating on the lakes or going for a snowshoe walk or hiking to the frozen waterfalls— that all is a wonderful experience.

And for all our activities, Northern Wilds is an unrenounceable adviser.

“Every year, when we arrive at Golden Eagle, giving a hug to Dan and Teresa (Baumann,) it is like coming home. In 2003 we came for the first time in summer and started with canoeing, but that is another story.

“We have been travelling all over the world, but we come back to Gunflint Trail twice a year because it is such a special place.”

9

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NORTHERN WILDS February-March 2012

Cross-Country Kids How to get ‘em hooked young Story and photos by Eric Chandler

You want to take your kids cross-country skiing? Great! I have skiing kids of my own, so, naturally, I’m an expert.

(Okay, my wife is. I just load skis into the truck.) Here is some field-tested advice on gear, trails, and creating good times for the rug rats.

EQUIPMENT Kids should learn how to ski in the classical technique. Early in the game, waxless classical skis are the hassle-free way to go. Very young beginners will do fine with skis that just strap to any old pair of winter boots. If you buy a ski/boot/binding package, the most important part is the boots. They need to fit snugly so the young wearer can control his or her skis, but not so tight that they cause cold feet. Work with your local ski shop to fit equipment properly.

About poles, I will say four words: Leave them at home. The first couple winters a kid goes skiing, poles are a distraction. The kid will learn more without them.

One last note about gear: Make sure children are dressed in layers. Kids cool off and overheat quicker than adults do because of their smaller mass. Check them often and adjust as necessary.

The Chandlers make skiing a family activity. Both Chandler children have been skiing—and posing adorably for photos—almost since they could walk.

T R AILS Choose trails carefully. You can make an easy trail hard, but you can’t make a hard trail easy. The main thing to remember is not to bite off more than you and the kids can chew. A short loop trail with a place to warm up is a sure winner.

So you’ve got your kids geared up at a trail. Make the transition from the car to skis as quick as possible. Kids’ attention spans are short. I like a short drive to the trailhead, with ski boots already on and the obligatory bathroom visit completed first.

I leap out and lay out everybody’s skis on the snow for them. We get the kids right from the car onto the skis and get moving!

Without this “surgical strike” mentality, you can flail around for an hour before your first stride.

NORTHERN WILDS February-March 2012

11

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No matter how stimulating the scenery or exhilarating the trail, kids can run out of energy. Plan for this possibility with a stash of let’s-keep-going bribes.

We bring stuff like candy and hot chocolate.

If you normally have a fun-free diet, break the rules and put a few treats in your backpack. If the kids associate happiness and chocolate bars with the outdoors, it’ll be that much easier to pry them away from the video game console to ski in the future.

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ATTITUDE Don’t bring a “workout” mentality to the trails with your family. Just play! Remember that kids want to have fun, not “get mileage.” See who can go farthest down a hill. Play tag.

See who can glide longest on one foot. Bushwhack off the trail and play follow-the-leader. Look for critter tracks.

It took me years to figure out that kids don’t necessarily want to be Olympians. Sometimes the best part of a ski trip is building a snowman or sliding (sans skis) down a snow pile in the parking lot. Loosen up and embrace the experience.

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On a February afternoon, three UMD students prepare for a snowshoe excursion after setting up camp on Boulder Lake, near Duluth. | SHELBY GONZALEZ

Warm Up to Winter Camping While some people react to the idea of winter camping with a reexive shiver, the truth is that camping out in the winter is just as fun and comfortable as a summertime excursion--as long as you’re prepared. Plus, skis and snowshoes let you explore uncharted territory and have places like the Boundary Waters virtually to yourself.

Here’s how to wring maximum joy out of winter: the fourth camping season.

NORTHERN WILDS February-March 2012

13

CONFESSIONS OF A

Winter-Camping Convert Story and photos by Shelby Gonzalez Stupid class. Stupid cold. I should fake a fire and melted part of my right boot. sudden case of hantavirus.

Winter camping is all about warmth.

I trudged across a wind-scythed win- You dress in multiple layers to retain ter landscape in borrowed snowshoes, body heat. You move to stay warm. You considering ways to escape. snack to maintain energy stores. And, It was a February morning. My out- if you’re like my group, you build a fi re door skills class at the University of and spend much of the afternoon and Minnesota-Duluth had driven the 30- evening sitting by it, swapping stories odd minutes from Duluth to Boulder and laughing.

Lake. We donned skis and snowshoes And melting things. In 24 hours, we and trekked across the frozen lake, car- accidentally melted four water bottles, a rying packs and hauling gear sleds called boot sole, a bumper sticker, two Ziploc pulks, toward campsites where we would bags, and a tube of lip balm. spend the night.

I was less than thrilled about this mandatory excursion, mainly because I was certain I would freeze solid overnight, like a Popsicle. They would have to chisel me out of my sleeping bag.

My group’s campsite was a clearing—actually a bay—blanketed with cattail-pierced snow. Aspen, Keep an eye on clothing and gear near the fire to minimize unincedar, pine and spruce tentional melting. trees sheltered it from the wind, which made firebuilding easy. Setting up camp occupied a solid portion of the day.

Soon it was late afternoon. “I’m going to go dig my coffin,” I announced.

I dragged myself away from the fire, yanked a shovel from its upright perch in the snow, and Despite appearances, this is a “snow coffin”—a one-person winmarched into the woods. ter camping shelter—not a shallow grave.

Snow trenches, or, more evocatively, “snow coffins,” are bodyAs day faded into night, I discovered sized holes you dig out of the snow to that, thanks to packing the right gear sleep in. The side walls block the wind and doing the right things, I had stayed and the ground acts as an insulator. cozy and was actually enjoying the stark For my snow coffin, I dug a depression scenery and sense of aloneness. It felt roughly six feet long, three feet wide and like we were the last people on Earth. a foot deep. Then I scurried back to the

Bundled-up UMD students flash grins during a February overnight trip to Boulder Lake, near Duluth.

Around 8 p.m., eyelids drooping, I used the burrito method to hunker down for the night. That is, I tucked a tarp into my trench, laid my sleeping pads and cold-weather sleeping bag in the middle, climbed in, and folded the tarp around myself. Snow would stay

out, heat would stay in.

I woke once. When I poked my face out of my cocoon, the wind had calmed.

The night was still and serene. I was glad I hadn’t come down with anything.

14

NORTHERN WILDS February-March 2012

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If you want a warm and comfortable night’s ssleep, you can’t go wrong with the Tundra ssleeping bag by Northface. Designed for w winter expeditions, the Tundra even has a zip garage to keep your face warm.

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Whether you are in the wilderness or in a state park, snowshoes give you the opportunity to explore areas that are not easily accessible in the summer. Redfeather offers a complete line of snowshoes for all conditions. Check them out at Ely’s Piragis Northwoods Company. www.piragis.com

Wall tents are large enough to allow the use of a small, wood-burning stove, offering comfortable warmth and an endless fuel supply. You can check out the Four Dog line of stoves at Stone Harbor Wilderness Supply in Grand Marais. www.stoneharborws.com

Camping Gear Guide Good gear can make the difference between an epic trip and a miserable one. Choose wisely.

Backcountry Stove

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Why Would Anyone Go Camping in the Winter?

It’s a fair question.

continued

After all, the ground is blanketed with snow, nighttime temps may dip below zero and you can’t go swimming. So what’s the attraction?

“There’s no crowds and no bugs,” says Tom Surprenant at Stone Harbor Wilderness Supply.

Hmmm. Knowing there won’t be any mosquitoes or black flies is reason enough to pitch a tent. But Surprenant also says you can be very comfortable if you have the right gear.

And by comfort, he means more than just staying warm at night. Using a wall tent and a good heater, you can relax in shirt sleeves.

“It’s really no different than summer camping,” he says.

Perhaps the best way to sample winter camping is on an outfitted excursion. Renting winter gear allows you to learn about setting up a comfortable camp without buying the equipment. This way you can learn about gear and make a better informed purchase if

Chariot Carrier Share the outdoor love with the next generation, whether you dig skiing, snowshoeing, winter camping or backyard snowmanbuilding. Tote young ‘uns with a Chariot Cross-Country Ski Kit. Similar to a pulk used to tow gear, a Chariot is designed to carry kids. See them at Gear West in Long Lake. www.gearwest.com

Wall Tents A wall tent is almost like taking a cabin camping. Inside, you have room for a stove, living and cooking space, and cots. Scope out the Sno-Trekker line at Stone Harbor Wilderness Supply in Grand Marais. www.stoneharborws.com

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you decide to add camping to your repertoire of winter activities. If you want to make your camping excursion nearly foolproof, consider hiring a guide.

Winter camping is often done in conjunction with other activities. Some folks like to ski or snowshoe to remote lakes and go icefishing. Others camp as part of a dog-sledding or wilderness skiing adventure. For starters, you may want to pick a campground at a state park or similar place where you can easily retreat to your vehicle if you decide the winter camping isn’t your cup of tea.

Until you gain some experience, don’t bite off more than you can chew. Keep your inaugural camping trips simple and focused on learning the basics of camping. Wait until you know the ropes before embarking on a big adventure. While a winter camping trip in the Northern Wilds is unlikely to spin dangerously out of control, you don’t want to be cold and miserable. After all, if you are not having fun, why go camping at any time of year?

—Shawn Perich

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The Fox and the Camera Hound wonders that surround us.

I knew it was a gift moments after we made eye contact. The red fox stared straight into my eyes, his body tense. We had stumbled upon each other at a bend in a trail.

I stood calmly, afraid any move would cause the fox to bolt. As we watched one another, I saw the fox relax.

Good fortune struck again. Though I could not hear it, the fox turned his attention to a rustling under the snow. Head cocked, ears perked, his tension returned, his full focus on what appeared to be blank snow.

The fox crouched, then launched himself into the air, arching his body, only to plummet face-first into the deep snow. In a second he emerged with a vole, which he ate with great relish. My camera whirred.

Perhaps it was because he had successfully hunted with me so near, or because he was a tolerant example of his species. Whatever the reason, this episode began a winterlong relationship between the fox and me in which he would frequently tolerate my trailing him. It was he, not I, that decided to make this relationship work.

Through My Lens

BY MICHAEL FURTMAN

At those times, when a wild animal’s tolerance allows me to peer into their otherwise Top: Even mid-leap, a red fox (Vulpes vulpes) is focused intently upon hidden world, I feel its target: a vole. Above: A successful pounce yields a vole entrée. honored. The honor doesn’t always come What kept me coming back in good easy. I searched for the fox nearly every weather and bad was not so much the day, whether it was 20 below or 20 above, chance of getting a decent photograph and would find him only one out of three but the thrill of being able to watch this or four attempts. Even then, sometimes he animal’s life. The real reason I photograph just didn’t want me hanging out with him. wildlife is not to sell the photos—though I accepted that, kept trying, and eventu- the sales are the means to my end—but to ally ended up with a selection of images of spend time in the woods, to see things few which I’m proud. others will ever see, and to marvel at the

Over the course of the winter, the fox grew calm enough to fall asleep with me mere yards away. I chuckled as I watched him trot amongst the legs of yarded whitetail deer, intent on rodents, the deer curious and alert. He was so successful hunting that he would often cache his catch, burying it delicately with muzzle and front paws.

Come January, I grew curious as he became obsessed with marking his territory, urinating on every stump, bush and rock.

The reason was revealed when I saw him trotting alongside a mate. I smiled.

Hunt. Eat. Sleep. Mate. I watched his life unfold. And although it was tempting, I never fed or otherwise tried to influence his behavior. I simply followed him.

When I look back on the photos, I realize just how special that time was. The fox gained nothing by letting me tag along.

But I gained much. In addition to some wonderful images and great memories, the fox taught me a simple lesson: tolerance allows many good things to happen.

NORTHERN WILDS February-March 2012

Heading outside this winter? Don’t forget your cooking kit.

Canadian Trails

BY GORD ELLIS

tendency to get solid.

It’s true that cold weather presents obstacles to the wouldbe camp cook. Chilly hands fumble when handling food and steel pots. Stoves don’t work as well. Open fi res can be a pain to keep burning. Liquids and waterbased foodstuffs have a

I know from experience. Like many people in Northwest Ontario, I grew up cooking over open fi res in the winter. If you were ice fishing, job one was to get the biggest rip-snorting fi re going you could.

That said, a one-burner stove may be a more convenient cold-weather cooking option. The technology of outdoor cooking has really come a long way in the last few years. There are now dozens of light and portable one-burner stoves on the market. These stoves heat quickly, cook evenly, and take a wide variety of fuels. They’re also affordable, and last a long time with a minimum of maintenance. For the winter adventurer, they’re the most dependable choice for cooking.

There are a few things to keep in mind when looking at one-burner stoves. You need a tough, reliable stove that will heat water quickly and work well in low temperatures. Many campers prefer white gas or unleaded fuel in the winter.

Propane also works well in the cold. Check to be sure that your fuel and your stove are compatible.

Bring more fuel than you expect to use and store it in a fuel bottle with a spout. If you’re out

for a day in winter, you could use half a quart of fuel cooking dinner and heating up water. You’d use a quarter of that in the summer. If you have a propane stove, bring two extra canisters.

If you ask around, you’ll get a wide variety of opinions on what the best foods are to eat outdoors in the winter. My favourite right now is a venison smokie boiled to perfection and then popped into a steamed whole-wheat bun. On this goes some ketchup, mayo and onion, at which point nirvana is achieved.

It’s a simple lunch but very hearty. Most adults can easily eat two of these morsels. A hot cup of soup is always a welcome addition. There are a variety of dried soups that can be hydrated with boiling water. A can of brown beans goes well with fish. I’ve also had some very good old-fashioned coffee that was little more than a handful of grounds thrown into a can of boiling water over an open fl ame. Sprinkle a bit of snow in the can to sink the grounds and you’ve got serious brew.

Cold-weather cooking takes a little preparation, and some time out of the day, but it’s worth it.

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e m e r t x e s m a e r t s One part Nordic tour, one part downhill slalom, all parts adventure

After I moved back to Minnesota from the Cascade Mountains, I prepared my quiver of skis for corduroy-smooth runs at Lutsen Mountains and the plethora of groomed classic tracks across the county. Soon, though, I craved something wilder.

NORTHERN WILDS February-March 2012

W

hat slaked my thirst for adventure was stream skiing, the North Shoreâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s version of backcountry ski touring. The North Shore boasts challenging stream descents with no crowds or chairlifts in sight. When the creeks and rivers that tumble into Lake Superior ďŹ nally start to freeze and sufďŹ cient snow accumulates, these ďŹ&#x201A;ows offer an off-the-beaten-trail way to enjoy skiing or snowshoeing up north.

An outing on one of the areaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nearly 100 different tributaries can be one part Nordic tour, one part downhill slalom, and all parts adventure.

Typically, these rivers meander from inland sources until they near the shore, at which point the topography changes dramatically, dropping the ďŹ nal two miles to Superiorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s edgeâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;sometimes more than 700 feet. Here youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll ďŹ nd waterfall drops, cascading ledges and rugged slides covered with a layer of ice and snow suitable for skis or snowshoes.

FACING PAGE Stream skiing is a unique way to access and view the North Shoreâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s back country. ABOVE Adding to the challenge is the obstacles you enounter along a stream, ranging from open water to steep vertical drops.

With the backcountry feel comes obstacles and exposure. Just like runs at a ski hill, rivers have a rating of difďŹ culty. No two are alike and one is never guaranteed to be the same from year to year.

Snow and ice conditions shift. The waterfalls and plunges themselves do remain the same, though the skiable lines down each may not. Some river sections are un-skiable.

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and fast currents are some of the major dangers on North Shore waterways. Portaging around hazards is sometimes an option. Some people rappel past them with harnesses and climbing equipment.

Smaller rivers typically have more obstacles, like tree trunks, branches and rocksâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;though these can add a fun dimension, too. Many streams require detailed navigation (choosing your line) through certain sections. Your line may skirt open water or an ice shelf, or wind through a boulder ďŹ eld.

Some streams require an up-and-back approach from an access point (often along Highway 61).

This gives you the advantage of being able to scout the river as you go. Other streams can be skied as point-to-point excursions, from inland road crossings down towards their mouths.

Local knowledge and scattered online references are your best bet for scouting streams; there is no guidebook.

Some things to keep in mind when venturing onto a frozen river: Understand how rivers work, such as where the fast and slow water is, how deep the river is, and what the ďŹ&#x201A;ow is like underneath the ice. Shelf ice is everywhere and may be feet above the actual water level.

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Low-Snow Sledding How to make sure your snowmobile isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t just a multi-thousand-dollar paperweight this winter By Lee Boyt

The main reason many of us live in this land of ungodly cold is to play in the snow. This winter, unfortunately, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s barely enough snow to justify owning a shovel. Looking out the window at multi-thousand-dollar snowmobiles sitting like expensive paperweights on the trailer is just plain depressing.

The easy answer is to bite the bullet and put the sleds back in storage. Yeah, right. As soon as the snow starts falling, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll be on the trails, trying to salvage whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s left of the winter.

Without consistent, season-long snowfalls, the trails wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have much of a base of snow to support snowmobile trafďŹ c. Bare spots will be common. Exposed earth and vegetation, although seemingly frozen solid, are actually quite fragile; ride around these areas if possible to avoid damaging the ecosystem.

Take it easy on the throttle and brakes to leave a little snow on the trail for the sleds behind you. Avoid the temptation of ripping up, down and around to release pent-up excitement, because the ruts and destruction you create on trails--especially those running through private property--arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t going to be nearly as impressive come spring thaw. In fact, such wanton environmental

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Also, if property owners discover a mess left by a bunch of inconsiderate sled jockeys, you may ďŹ nd that section of trail closed next season.

Low snow warrants mechanical considerations. Owners of liquid-cooled snowmobiles have particular cause for caution.

Liquid-cooled snowmobiles have an automotive-style cooling system, using heat exchangers instead of a radiator to cool the engine. Located on the underside of the sled, heat exchangers are long U-shaped pipes (within a thin-wall housing) connected to the engineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cooling system.

Owners of snowmobiles with air-cooled engines need not worry about their heat exchangers, as these machines use fans to blow cold ambient air around the engine.

However, all sled owners need to think about the wear and tear that low-snow riding can inďŹ&#x201A; ict on their machines. Snow lubricates and cools tracks, slides and slide rails (hi-faxes). Premature failure from heat, friction, and debris grinding away of these critical drivetrain components is a nearcertainty during extended operation in low-snow conditions.

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The skags/ski runners/wear bars on the running surface of the skis take a beating under ideal circumstances. Dirt, gravel and pavement can erode the skags to the point that steering traction is compromised--the machine wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t stay hooked up in turns-which is unnerving at best and potentially fatal at worst.

Hot coolant ďŹ&#x201A;ows from the enwww.treadlightly.org gine, through the heat exchangers, and back to the engine. The heat exchangers dissipate the heat from the So go ahead and play in what snow we coolant with the snow spraying from the track. If you have--but use your head. If you have to think about drive in places with little or no snow, the heat exchang- whether thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s enough snow to unload the sleds, there ers canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t do their job. The engine can overheat and self- probably isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t. If you decide to venture out anyway, go destruct, and then youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re really out of business. slow, smart and safe.

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On the Sharp End On a subzero January morning, some climber friends and I stood at the foot of a lumpen icefall in Orient Bay, Ontario.

The icefall is named Sycho Icycho and is rated WI (Water Ice) 2. Put another way, if it

BY SHELBY GONZALEZ were a movie, it would be rated G. It looked like a melted wedding cake.

Miss Guided

Still, at that moment Sycho Icycho was the scariest thing I’d ever seen. I was about to lead it. This would be my fi rst time leading.

In climbing parlance, leading means placing your safety gear as you climb instead of rigging it beforehand. If you fall while on lead, you fall twice the distance between your current position and the last piece of gear you placed.

Also, if you placed said gear incorrectly or fell before placing gear at all, you could hit the ground. There’s a reason one slang term for leading is “being on the sharp end.”

Climber vs. Mind Monkey ged little teeth along the bottom rim. I was holding a pair of ice tools. (Imagine a cross between a hatchet and a bone saw.)

Stephen King once wrote an essay about ice tools for Outside Magazine. It includes the sentence, “I look at the DMM Predator ice ax and I think of murder.”

Looking upward, I was thinking of many things--murder not among them. A chorus of ambition, confidence, vanity and insecurity clamored in my mind.

You’re ready.

It’s too late to back out.

You have to do this.

You can’t.

You can.

Fear joined in. I imagined King-worthy scenarios in which I tumbled off Sycho Icycho and landed on my ice tools.

That wouldn’t happen, of course; the route is easy and I had sufficient skill to

Speaking of sharp ends, I was bristling with them. Since frozen waterfalls are slippery and rather lacking in handholds, ice climbers stab their own holds into the ice with a quiver of intimidating objects.

You have to stay sharp to climb an ice wall. The sheer cliffs of the Nipigon River valley attract climbers who enjoy the challenge of climbing massive ice slabs.

Grids of steel spikes called crampons bedecked my boots.

Ice screws dangled from my harness, each one baring jag-

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NORTHERN WILDS February-March 2012 climb it. But my lizard brain prefers the lurid to the logical. Impalement! it telegraphed. Imminent death!

My adrenal glands helpfully spurted enough adrenaline to stun a walrus.

Some people meditate to hush their internal commentary track, which Buddhists term the “mind monkey.” I felt the urge to flee.

Instead, I sucked a chestful of artic air and went through safety checks with my belayer. Slammed one tool into the ice above my head. Then the other tool.

Crampons next. My feet left the ground.

ABOVE The author conquered her fears to climb an ice wall and lay out a safety line for others to use.

The sharp end was a scalpel excising the unimportant.

My awareness shrunk to sensory input: huffi ng breath, clammy skin, lactic-acid burn in forearms and calves, scrape and thud of gear biting ice. The peanut gallery went silent.

Up I climbed, graceless and still scared but no longer thinking about it. When I reached the top, a fierce joy flooded the space where doubt and fear had been.

Though this was my first time leading, the sharp end felt familiar.

I had been there before and have been many times since--when I fi rst ran a rapid, stood on a snowboard, spoke in front of an audience. The sharp end is one step past your abilities.

The sharp end is anything that both scares and intrigues you.

Even if you feel comfortable with your life, dare your edges now and again. You might find that afterward the world feels a little bit bigger.

NIPIGON

Ice Climbing FESTIVAL The Nipigon Ice Fest will be held Mar. 2-4. Festival events include climbing slide shows, a gear swap, door prizes and several ice climbing clinics on worldrenowned Nipigon area ice.

“We are enthusiastic to get the Nipigon Ice Fest back up and running. It’s been a couple of years off and we have been anxious to show off the worldclass climbing opportunities in Northwestern Ontario,” says Kara Bremer, Nipigon Ice Fest coordinator.

For those interested in participating in a clinic or any of the other events can register online at www.nipigonicefest. com. Climbing gear will be available for rent and there will be climbing gear company representatives on site throughout the festival to show off their goods. A list of area accommodations and restaurants are also listed on the website.

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I can stop looking—I’ve finally found THE crosscountry ski pant. The Ibex Breakaway 2 Pant blends new soft shell technology with the old-school standby: temperature regulating and stink-fighting wool. These formfitting pants feature Climawool softshell panels on the front (a stretchy, breathable, wind- and water-resistant blend of nylon and wool), while the back is a plush wool knit. So far this winter I’ve used them in a range of conditions across the upper Midwest. From stride skiing on mild, sunny afternoons to skate skiing on subzero, blustery mornings (with a light baselayer), I pretty much forgot I had them on--a testament to their impeccable fit and comfort. The pants are simple and sleek with a high elastic waist to lock out cold air, generous ankle zips for easy wear over boots, one zipper pocket and reflective detailing. Added bonus: they’re made in Canada. MSRP $225. More info at www.ibex.com.

—Kate Watson

Everyone “otter” have an Otter Box. The company makes a selection of waterproof containers for carrying just about anything you want to keep safe and dry.

The Otter Box 2500, shown here, has plenty of room to carry a cell phone, pocket camera and other small items. It’s convenient to keep in the cab of a pickup. The plastic latches are somewhat difficult to open, but are not a drawback for a waterproof container. Otter Box also makes protective cases for most popular brands of smart phones, notepads and similar devices. Go to www.otterbox.com —Shawn Perich

Goodbye Girl Ponytail Hat Exercising girls (and some boys) with long hair wear pony tails. Now instead of an awkward bulge under their winter hats, ponytails are free to drift in the wind through an ingenious integrated loop. Heads and ears are snugly protected beneath a colorful, warm layer of water-resistant Polartec® fleece. www.trailheads.com Assorted colors. Retails for $26 —Amber Pratt

Jetboil Sol Advanced Cooking System The aforementioned qualities in the Jetboil Sol Advanced Cooking System makes super-economic use of fuel, with the smallest fuel canister (100 g) cooking about three days’ worth of breakfast, coffee and dinner. The stove includes a locking pot support that allows you to use larger pots and pans. All components, including the fuel canister, stow away nicely within the lightweight aluminum cooking vessel.

—Shelby Gonzalez

ClipLit Long winter nights leave all of us fumbling for keyholes.

ClipLit from Nite Ize, Inc. attaches to your key ring to provide a ready source of light.

About the size of a quarter, Clip Lit has a built in carabiner you can snap to zipper pulls, backpacks, key rings or any place you need a small light. A small lithium battery provides 24 hours of continuous power to the LED. Learn more at www.

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Arctic Sport Mid Muck Boots When I used to think about rubber boots, four things came to mind: waterproof, clunky, ugly and no traction. Except for being 100% waterproof, these Arctic Sport Mid Muck Boots couldn’t be further from that notion. Not only do these boots fit well on my feet, but they have excellent traction -- I don’t feel like I’m going to slip and slide while out walking my dog. Comfortable, easy to take on and off, and very warm, these boots have become my go-to pair as I head out the door. Comes with a dark rubber bottom with a choice of four colored uppers.

Sizes include women’s 6-13. www.muckbootcompany.com The boot retails for $144.95. —Amber Pratt

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NORTHERN WILDS February-March 2012

Game Changers

One of the best parts of gardening is that you can change your game every year if you want.

Last year, for example, I tried winter seed sowing, and the it worked just great. I cut onegallon milk jugs BY JOAN FARNAM in half, keeping the handle intact, fi lled the bottom with starter soil, added cool-weather seeds---cilantro and lettuce-sealed up the milk jugs with duct tape, punched a few holes in them and then put them in a sunny corner of the yard in late February. Within a couple of weeks, the seeds had sprouted. By early May they were ready for harvest. It was pretty amazing to be snipping off fresh cilantro a month before anything could be planted in the ground.

Accidental Gardener

This year, I plan to add to my repertoire. I’m going to set aside a small plot in my garden and try square-foot “lasagna” gardening. I’m also planning to expand my selection of season-extenders to include a cold frame.

There are all kinds of ways to build one, and they really do add weeks to your growing season. They also can provide badly needed warmth for vegetables like tomatoes and peppers.

Molly and Ken Hoffman, who live just

LEFT A cold frame allows you to extend your gardening season. Kale and parsley here are being harvested in late November. ABOVE This insulated cold frame with a sliding cover is designed to be easier for children to use.

outside Grand Marais on Good Harbor Hill, have been growing their own food for years. They have lots of fruit trees and berry bushes and great garden plots, as well as a hand-dug root cellar.

But even in their protected area in what we call “the banana belt,” a microclimate of warmth that runs just below the fi rst ridges up from Lake Superior, growing tomatoes and peppers has always been iffy. So, they designed their own portable cold frame, using 2- by 8-foot rough-sawn cedar boards for the long sides and 2-foot by 30-inch side boards to create the box. They then attached 2-foot pieces of Plexiglas to the sides of the box, creating a perfect growing environment for peppers and tomatoes.

Molly said that Plexiglas has become very expensive these days. “But you could use greenhouse plastic.”

They use a breathable plastic for the top of the box, and have tarps to cover it on freezing nights. They plant their pepper and tomato plants in the box on May 15, a full month before it’s safe to put them directly into the garden, and they reap the rewards every season. One other nice thing about the box--it can be taken apart each fall and stored for the winter.

Nancy Haarmeyer and Tom McCann live in a true Zone 3 above Grand Marais.

They have discovered that a cold frame designed by Cook County extension agent

Diane Booth and her husband—meant for children’s gardens—works well for them, too. The cold frame has insulated sides and windows that slide back and forth on the top, rather than up and down, which makes it safer for children, Booth said. It also makes it easier to regulate the heat in the cold frame. The size of the cold frame depends on the size of the top windows.

Nancy said she was amazed at how well it worked. “It was really fun,” she said, and well worth the investment. Booth says she will gladly share the plans with the public.

Call her at 218-387-3015 or e-mail her at diane.booth@co.cook.mn.us.

NORTHERN WILDS February-March 2012

By Deane Morrison UNIVERSITY OF MINNESOTA STARWATCH February-March

Amazing Gulls, Acrobats of the sky and sea

A View of the Lake

By Beryl Singleton Bissel

By Marlin Bree

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As winter wanes, several planets liven up the lingering darkness.

Marlin Bree finds wonder in a bird many folks take for granted. This tribute to gulls looks at their natural history, interactions with humans and the lore associated with the birds. With photos and drawings on every page, Amazing Gulls is a visual delight. Although by no means a traditional bird guide, anyone who enjoys birds will like this book.—Shawn Perich

On Feb. 1, Mars rises in the east about three hours after sunset, but by March it comes up just after sundown.

Its ruddy glow ornaments the space below the triangle of stars in the hindquarters of Leo, the lion.

Earth laps Mars in the orbital race on Mar. 3, and two days later our planets pass just 63 million miles from one another. Mars’ brightness then will rival that of Sirius, the brightest star, a beacon in the south near Orion. Also, in early March, Jupiter hangs above brilliant Venus, an evening “star” in the west. Venus climbs past Jupiter in the second week of March and ends the month as high as it ever gets.

Saturn rises in the east shortly before midnight on Feb. 1, but just over an hour after sunset by the end of March. The ringed planet closely trails Spica, the brightest star in Virgo.

On clear, moonless nights in late February, look for a faint, broad fi nger of light pointing back along the sun’s path an hour or two after sunset. This is the zodiacal light, a reflection of sunlight off a disc of dust that stretches far into space in the plane of the solar system.

February’s full moon rises at 5:32 p.m. on Feb. 7—within two hours of exact fullness, so it will be a beauty. March’s full moon shines the night of Mar. 8. And, last but not least, spring arrives with the equinox at 12:14 a.m. on Mar. 20.

The University of Minnesota-Duluth offers public viewings of the night sky at its Marshall W. Alworth Planetarium. For more information and viewing schedules, visit www.d.umn.edu/planet.

Find U of M astronomers and links to the world of astronomy at www.astro.umn.edu.

Growing Shrubs and Trees in Cold Climates

An urban immigrant to a lake home in the small North Shore community of Schroeder, the author writes short vignettes about her new lifestyle. Walks in the woods, kind neighbors, cold weather and picking berries are among her topics.—Shawn Perich

By Debbie Lonnee, Nancy Rose, Don Selinger and John Whitman UNIVERSITY OF MINNESOTA PRESS $39.95 A hefty compendium containing more than 950 varieties of trees and shrubs for cold climates, this book has a clean layout that makes it remarkably easy to use.

Color photography shows the flowers and foliage of many varieties. Specific information about how to plant and care for each variety is included, as well as a general section with chapters for planting, propagation, pests and other topics. Backyard horticulturists throughout the Northern Wilds will find this is the gold standard for information about trees and shrubs.—Shawn Perich

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NORTHERN WILDS February-March 2012

Legendary Ladies

Lakehead divas palled around with Greta Garbo and John Wayne

D

“That she was beautiful,” he said. “She had a wonderful spirit that carried her through the times when she was not fighting demons.

She was an incredibly creative individual, a passionate artist who was a poet, actress, sculptor and painter.”

ary John Wayne in the western The Rainbow Trail.

She appeared in 60 movies between 1934 and 1962. She was John Wayne’s Two became Hollywood divas. One beleading lady in came part of Europe’s wealthy elite, socialHollywood’s fi rst izing with the likes of Winston Churchill musical westand Sir Laurence Olivier. Another was hailed ern, “Riders of as one of the world’s most beautiful women.

Destiny;” Greta BY ELLE ANDRAWARNER Today their achievements, tragedies and gloGarbo’s younger ries are largely forgotten. sister in “The Here are their stories.

Painted Veil;” and, later, Mickey Rooney’s older sister in the “Andy Hardy” movie series.

Born in Fort William in 1914, Cecilia Parker showed Cecilia married actor Dick early promise as a “star pupil” of dance instructor Grace Ensworth. Newspapers called her the “child darling of Fort Baldwin and retired from actWilliam entertainment.” At age 18 she starred with legend- ing in 1942, although she took occasional roles until 1962.

She died in 1993 at age 79. uring the Golden Age of Hollywood, from roughly the 1930s through the ‘50s, four women from the Lakehead achieved international fame. (The Lakehead is the name used collectively for Port Arthur and Fort William, now called Thunder Bay.)

European Elite

Strange Tales

Irene Boycun gave up a promising musical career to become Lady Alexandria Korda. Born in 1929, the daughter of Ukrainian immigrant farmers in Fort William, she changed her name after high school graduation to Alexandria (or “Alexa”) and headed to Europe with dreams of becoming a star.

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In England, she met, fell in love with, and married the famous movie producer Sir Alexander Korda.

She was 24, he was 60. When he died in 1956, Lady Korda become a wealthy woman, but she had paid a price: during their marriage, she had started taking powerful doses of prescription drugs.

Teenage Superstar Barbara Read was born in Port Arthur in 1917. Her greatgrandfather was Minnesota senator, Harry Burkhardt, a Swiss immigrant to the U.S. who later founded the famous Burkhardt Brass Band of Wabasha County. Barbara was discovered by Hollywood when she was going to school and living with her aunt in California. She was 19 years old when her fi rst movie, “Three Smart Girls,” catapulted her and costar Deanna Durbin to stardom. Between 1936 and 1947, Barbara made 21 feature fi lms, the last one a western called “Coroner Creek.”

Alexa made world headlines when she remarried, this time wedding a wealthy British insurance broker named Patrick Metcalfe. They had three children before divorcing in 1964. Two years later, at age 37, Alexa was found dead. An inquest put the blame on her doctor for “grossly over-prescribing.”

Beautiful” Director TOP Cecelia Parker gained acclaim at a young age and starred in a John Wayne movie when she was just 18 years old. She went on to appear in 60 movies during her career. ABOVE Barbara Read also achieved famed at a young age and made 21 films in her decade-long acting career. | PHOTOS FROM THE AUTHOR’S COLLECTION.

In 1947, Barbara left behind her movie career to focus on her art and family. She had four children from two marriages. Unfortunately, health issues plagued her, and in 1963, at the age of 46, she took her own life.

I asked her eldest son Damon Josephy what he wanted people to remember about his mother.

The fourth woman, Olga Landiak, was a Ukrainian farmer’s daughter from Fort William. After winning a major acting award, she moved to England, where she continued her professional acting career. She moved back to Canada in 1954 as a director for the Stratford Shakespeare Festival.

While in England, Olga had met British photographer Nicholas Egon, who immediately selected her as one of 48 women from around the world for his book “Beautiful Women of Our Time.” Olga later returned to Northwestern Ontario and wrote a number of books, plays and newspaper columns.

NORTHERN WILDS February-March 2012

Look Who’s Squawking Quoth the raven,“No trespassing” One Sunday, my mother and I drove to visit her friend Mrs. Rivard. Mrs. Rivard was well into her 80s that summer. She ran a small resort called Camp Rivard, located a few miles south of town on Birch Lake.

When we arrived at her home, she was in the living room doing a headstand. She neatly fl ipped over on her hands. The next thing I knew, she was standing upright and extending her hand to me. “You must be Michael.”

“Yes, ma’am,” I answered, mouth agape.

Just then, there was a knock at the kitchen door. Mrs. Rivard opened the door and in walked a resort guest, a good-sized man who took his hat off when he entered the kitchen.

“I don’t know how to tell you this, Mrs. Rivard, but there’s a thief in camp.” He explained that his wedding band and watch had gone missing.

Blackie a treat. He thanked her.

Mrs. Rivard got Blackie a few years earlier, she told me. A logger had cut down a tree with a raven’s nest in it. Two of the chicks were killed, but the third survived.

The logger brought the chick to her and she raised it by hand.

“I believe I know who has taken your things,” she said.

“Follow me, please.”

“Sometimes I wonder if he has any idea that he’s a raven,” she mused.

Blackie’s theft of shiny objects became part of Camp Rivard’s charm. “I have people who come to visit me and bring their children and grandchildren just so they can leave something on the window ledge for Blackie to steal.”

She led us outside, to the back of the garage, where there was a large wooden box mounted on a post about four feet off the ground. On the I was so taken by Blackie front of the box, a platform IRON MIKE HILLMAN that I told my dad I would and a wooden dowel extended rather visit Camp Rivard than outward, while a hole about go fi shing.

Mrs. Rivard was busy with the six inches in diameter opened inward. resort during the summer, so I agreed not A raven emerged from the hole and stood to bother about Blackie until the season on the platform, looking her in the eye. slowed down and she had time for company. I will always remember the morning I “Hello,” the raven said. called and told her that we were coming for I couldn’t believe my ears. I’d heard it a visit. I asked if there was anything special said that ravens could talk, but I never re- I could bring Blackie. ally believed it.

There was a pause from the other end of Mrs. Rivard talked to the raven as if he the phone. Mrs. Rivard said gently that were a person. “Blackie, Mr. Anderson is Blackie had disappeared. missing a watch and ring. Do you know “One day Blackie was home, and the where they are?” next morning he was gone. I hope he found Blackie hopped onto the dowel and a girlfriend and has fi nally realized he’s a looked away. “No.” raven.”

“Are you sure? Do you mind if I have a We visited Camp Rivard for many sumlook?” mers after that, but it was never the same.

“No trespassing, no trespassing,” he fi red Once when I was fishing, a big old raven perched in a nearby pine. Just before he flew, back.

I thought I heard him say hello, but that Despite his protests, Mrs. Rivard opened might have been only wishful thinking. the door on the back of the box. Inside, she

Campfire Stories

found a shiny gold watch and a ring. She removed them, closed the box and gave

27

28

NORTHERN WILDS February-March 2012

he w Ever y night of t

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