June July Northern Wilds 2013

Jun-Jul 2013 VOL 10, ISSUE 3 For Folks Who Love the North

Hidden Treasures Agate Advice

Angling Shangri-la

Sails on the Horizon

FREE

Northern Wilds is also available by subscription.

See page 3 for details.

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NORTHERN WILDS JUNE - JULY 2013

Stand up paddle BoardS it’s a whole new way to experience the BWCA and other inland lakes!

Visit our retail store for Gear, tourS & rentalS for all your favorite warm-weather adventures, including:

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NORTHERN WILDS JUNE - JULY 2013

from the editors

FEATURES

Duluth's Tall Ships Festival 16 Tips for Agate Picking 19 Thunder Bay’s Prince Arthur’s Landing 20 Discover Geocaching 22 Germans Invade Canoe County 26 Searching for Canoe Birch 28 Beat the Bugs 30 Charter Fishing 32

It’s Finally Summer Record-setting spring snowfalls and frozen lakes which refused to thaw made our recently concluded winter seem endless. As we put this issue to bed, the sun is shining and it is warm enough to go outdoors without a coat.

Summer is on the way. Our summers are as short as they are enjoyable, you have to get outside and enjoy it as often as you can. After all, it is not unusual to see snowflakes in September.

road leading from Whitefish Lake to Northern Lights Lake. Javier Serna introduces us to some Lake Superior charter captains who would be happy to take you fishing.

Thunder Bay outdoor lovers Josh and Aubrey Ellis take us along on a geo-caching adventure, a popular pastime where you use a GPS to find hidden treasures. If you’d rather sail the high seas in search of pirate gold, join Breana Roy as she reports For many folks, summer fun means Minnesota’s Jack Sparrow will attend the fishing. The Northern Wilds is blessed incredible Tall Ships Festival coming to with an outstanding freshwater fishery offering di- Duluth in July. Or, if you’d rather seek tiny treasures on verse opportunities ranging from top-notch walleye a secluded beach, check out our guide to agate picking. and smallmouth bass fishing on inland lakes to trout For some folks, just being here is a treasure. You may and salmon in Lake Superior. In this issue, we give remember our two German friends, Gaby and Werner, you the low-down on some awesome, accessible in- the intrepid winter sunbathers who graced our Feb.land lake fishing just north of the border along the Mar. 2012 cover. They’re back in this issue to share their Boundary Waters canoeing experiences. Also returning is bark canoe builder Talon Stammen, who tells us how he finds the best birch tree to cover a canoe. For backyard adventurers, Joan Farnam explains how to prune your tomato plants to improve the yield.

DEPARTMENTS North Notes 5 Events 8 Events Calendar 14 Book Reviews 40 Product Reviews 40 Through My Lens 21

The Accidental Gardener 37 Canadian Trails 34 Strange Tales 42 Dining Guide 38 Northern Sky 41 Classifieds 42

You’ll find even more stories tucked away in the pages of this issue of Northern Wilds, as well as our popular calendar of events. Be sure to check out the goods and services offered by our many advertisers. When you shop with them be sure to say you saw their ad in Northern Wilds. Oh, and one more thing: Get outside and enjoy summer.

About our cover: Aubrey Ellis of Thunder Bay seeks a hidden geocache treasure. Learn more on page 22. | JOSH ELLIS

—Shawn Perich and Amber Pratt

Aug/Sept Advertising Deadline: July 10, 2013

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EDITORIAL Shawn Perich, Editor • editor@northernwilds.com Breana Roy, Editorial Assistant • breana@northernwilds.com ADVERTISING Amber Pratt, Advertising Manager, apratt@northernwilds.com Jane Shinner, Sales Representative jane@northernwilds.com GRAPHIC DESIGN Katie Viren • katie@northernwilds.com OFFICE Bev Wolke • billing@northernwildsmedia.com

CONTRIBUTORS: Elle Andra-Warner, Werner Bahner, Aubrey Ellis, Gord Ellis, Josh Ellis, Joan Farnam, Michael Furtman, Deane Morrison, Breana Roy, Javier Serna, Talon Stammen, Gaby Wurth Copyright 2013 by Northern Wilds Media, Inc. Published six times per year. Subscription rate is $15 per year or $28 for 2 years. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part requires written permission from the publisher.

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NORTHERN WILDS JUNE - JULY 2013

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5

WOLVES DWINDLE Trail Segments CLOSED FOR REPAIRS

On Isle Royale

Isle Royale’s wolf population appears to be in trouble. Scientists spotted no pups in the past year and are concerned the few remaining wolves are not reproducing. Only eight remain, down from 24 just five years ago, according to a Michigan Technological University study.

The Isle Royale wolf population has been monitored since 1971. Wolves are thought to have crossed on the ice to the island around 1950. They prey on the island’s moose herd, which has fluctuated in numbers over the years. The Michigan research is the world’s longest running field study of predator-prey relationships.

Portions of the Willard Munger State Trail between Carlton and Duluth will close this summer for repairs and maintenance related to the June 2012 flood. The multi-use trail runs from Hinckley to Duluth. Closed sections will have signs during construction.

Contractors are redecking the St. Louis River and Forbay bridges. The second phase of the project involves resurfacing the trail from the Forbay bridge to the city of Carlton. The project could take up to six weeks to complete, and the trail will be closed from Carlton to Thompson during that period.

In West Duluth, trail users can expect to see closures beginning in early June. The trail section from

The island’s wolf population reached a high of 50 in the 1980s and has averaged around two dozen animals. Scientists are concerned inbreeding may be affecting wolf reproduction. There is some discussion of whether new wolves should be introduced to the wilderness park to improve the gene pool. No decisions regarding wolf introductions have been made. Another option is to allow nature to take its course, which may mean wolves will die out on the island. If so, it is possible the moose population may grow larger than the habitat can support.

the parking area adjacent to the Willard Munger Inn to 93rd Avenue will be under construction to repair flood damage. The segment of trail from Carlton to 93rd Avenue (between the segments under construction) will be open for travel; however, users can expect to see some unpaved areas where repairs are needed.

A map of trail segments affected by construction is posted at www.mndnr.gov (www.dnr.state. mn.us/state_trails/willard_munger/index.html).

Additional construction is possible as funding becomes available. For updates and more information, check the website or call the DNR Information Center at 888-646-6367, between 8 a.m. and 4:30 p.m. Monday through Friday.

Terrace Bay Moose Rescue Ontario conservation officers and staff at the Terrace Bay pulp mill successfully rescued a bull moose that became mired in a manmade pond at the mill. The extraordinary rescue was fully documented with pictures and a narrative written by Conservation Officer Paul Dennis. The story and photos were sent to Northern Wilds by John Kaplanis, executive director of the Northwestern Ontario Sportsmen’s Alliance. To see the complete story and photos, log on to our website at www.Northern Wilds.com.

This mud-stuck moose got help.

Forest Tent Caterpillar Outbreak Forest tent caterpillar populations have been rising in some northern and west-central Minnesota counties since 2007, and that trend is expected to intensify, according to the Minnesota DNR. Data suggests forest tent caterpillar populations and the associated defoliation of trees could be building towards a 2014 or 2015 peak.

The forest tent caterpillar, Malacosoma disstria, is a native defoliator of a wide variety of hardwood trees and shrubs. Its range in North America extends from coast to coast and from the tree line in Canada to the southern states. In northern Minnesota, it is commonly called the army worm.

“These insects feed primarily on the leaves of aspen, birch, oak and basswood trees,” said Jana

Albers, DNR forest health specialist in Grand Rapids.

Defoliation normally begins in late May in northern Minnesota and is usually completed by late June. The heavy snowfall and late arrival of spring may delay the egg hatch, but will have little impact on the survival of eggs laid last year. Defoliation has little long-term impact on healthy trees, but can result in temporarily slowed growth. However, if trees are under stress from prolonged drought or have root system damage, secondary infestations by other pests can further weaken or kill those trees – particularly oaks and birches.

Outbreaks can result in dramatic swaths of defoliation in areas with abundant aspen, birch, oak or basswood stands. They occur at intervals of 10

Predicted for 2014

to 16 years and last three to five years. They begin over large areas simultaneously, often occurring in Ontario, Minnesota, Wisconsin and the upper peninsula of Michigan. Locally, outbreaks normally last two to three years. Widespread outbreaks peaked in Minnesota in 1922, 1937, 1952, 1967, 1978, 1989 and 2001.

Since it is a native insect, lack of food supply, as well as native parasites and predators ultimately push an outbreak to a crashing halt, Albers said.

After a few years of population buildup, the large numbers of caterpillars need more foliage than is available. Up to 95 percent will die from starvation.

A native, parasitic fly kills most of the remaining pupae in their cocoons, ending the outbreak.

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NORTHERN WILDS JUNE - JULY 2013

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Rivers Treated for Sea Lampreys U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service personnel applied lampricides to Minnesota’s Nemadji and Arrowhead rivers to kill sea lamprey larvae burrowed in the stream bottom. Sea lamprey larvae live in certain Great Lakes tributaries and transform to parasitic adults that migrate to the Great Lakes and kill fish. Failure to kill the larvae in streams would result in significant damage to the Great Lakes fishery. Infested tributaries must be treated every three to five years with lampricides to control sea lamprey populations.

The U. S. Environmental Protection Agency and Health Canada Pest Management Regulatory Agency have reviewed human health and environmental safety data for lam-

pricides and in 2003 concluded that the lampricides (Lampricid and Bayluscide) pose no unreasonable risk to the general population and the environment when applied at concentrations necessary to control larval sea lampreys. Lampricides are selectively toxic to sea lampreys, but a few fish, insects and broadleaf plants are sensitive.

The program is contracted through the Great Lakes Fishery Commission to the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service and Department of Fisheries and Oceans Canada. The Commission initiated chemical control of sea lampreys in 1958. Since that time the highly successful program has contributed significantly to the maintenance of the $7 billion Great Lakes

sport and commercial fisheries.

The Commission is committed to delivering a sea lamprey control program that practices good environmental stewardship. To support the continued safe use of lampricides, the Commission recently conducted a series of studies, at a total cost of $6 million, to assess the effects of the lampricides on human health and the environment. In addition to these studies, the Commission has implemented a research program to develop alternative control techniques. The Commission also is developing a strategy to increase the number of barriers on lamprey-producing streams, and is conducting research into barrier design, traps, attractants, and biological controls.

ANGLERS SPEND $2.4 BILLION IN MINNESOTA The anglers who enjoy Minnesota’s sky blue waters are a powerful engine for the state’s economy, according to a new survey data released by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service.

Direct spending of resident and nonresident anglers in Minnesota totaled $2.4 billion in 2011, the latest year for which information is available. That amount included $1.4 billion on equipment, $925 million

on trip-related expenditures and $41 million on various items such as magazines and fishing organization membership dues. Angler spending supports about 35,000 jobs.

Only three states had higher angling expenditures. Two were Florida and New York, which are high population coastal states. The other was Michigan, which has nearly twice

Minnesota’s population and abuts four Great Lakes.

The federal survey found angler spending has declined by $315 million since 2006 when the last survey was conducted. The survey put the average amount spent per angler – $1,537, down from $1,843 in 2006.

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Stop

Invasive Species Minnesota’s land-based invasive species outreach program known as, PlayCleanGo: Stop Invasive Species in Your Tracks, is kicking off a new campaign to educate and create awareness among outdoor recreationists.

Campaign themes include “Give Invasive Species the Brush Off.” and “Wipe ‘em Off. Wipe ‘em Out!” PlayCleanGo encourages outdoor recreation such as off-highway vehicle riding, hiking, biking and horseback riding on Minnesota trails, parks and recreation sites, while following these simple steps to help stop the spread of terrestrial invasive species: • Arrive with clean gear.

• Burn local or certified firewood.

• Use local or weed-free hay.

• Stay on the trails.

• Before leaving, remove mud and seeds.

A few of the common invasive species found on land include earthworms, Canada thistle, common buckthorn, wild parsnip and the two fungal species that cause Dutch elm disease and oak wilt. Emerald ash borer is a terrestrial invasive species relatively new to the state that has the public concerned about the health of their ash trees.

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NORTHERN WILDS JUNE - JULY 2013

NHFS Features Northern Landscapes Festival May 30-June 2

Learn more about the birds, wildflowers, and geology of the northern landscape with the Northern Landscapes Festival at North House Folk School in Grand Marais. A variety of courses and public programs will be held, including Bird and Wildlife Photography, Wildflowers of Early Summer, Minnesota Birding and more. There will also be an assortment of guided hikes and presentations. Featured guest speaker will be bird and wildlife photographer Paul Sundberg at 7:30 p.m. on June 1. For more info on the festival, visit www. northhouse.org.

→ speaker series June 21-23, → chowder feed → solstice pageant → boats-to-tools auction → boat parade & boat display

Wooden Boat Show and Summer Solstice Festival

2013

www.northhouse.org

June 21-23

Thunder Bay Blues Festival from 2011. | Storm Carroll

Join North House Folk School for one of its biggest celebrations of the year. This family oriented event offers numerous workshops, adventure

13th Annual

Lake Superior Salmon Classic Fishing Tournament

Silver Bay Marina Sat, July 20 & Sun, July 21

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2-hour sails departing daily, 9 am to sunset all summer long

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Entry fee $20 per person Raffle tickets also available For more info and rules visit:

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NORTHERN WILDS JUNE - JULY 2013

The Lutsen 99er is becoming known as one of the Midwest’s most challenging bike races. | LUTSEN 99ER

filled stories, demonstrations, puppets, a boat display, food and an auction. Take a course in knot tying, Raku pottery, spinning fibers, shoemaking, figure carving, making mittens, and more. For more info, visit www.northhouse.org.

Great American Backyard Campout June 22

Families everywhere across the nation will camp out in backyards, neighborhoods, communities and parks. Camping is a fun experience for all generations. Get kids interested in nature and reconnect with the outdoors. Event is free but make sure to register online. If Saturday the 22nd doesn’t work, then register your campout online and choose a different date. Bring families together with a little natural fun! Visit www.backyardcampout.org for more info.

Grandma’s Marathon June 22

Grandma’s Marathon, a total of 26.2 miles, is one of the most popular foot races in the country, attracting top runners from around the world. The marathon will start in Two Harbors at 7:45 a.m. and end in Duluth’s Canal Park. Spectators are welcome to cheer on friends and family along the course and as they reach the finish line. For more info or to register, visit www.grandmasmarathon. com.

10th Annual

Lutsen 99er Ultra Bike Race June 29

Feeling tough and ambitious? Then register for the Lutsen 99er Bike Race. Travel 99 miles through the rugged terrain of the Sawtooth Mountains and boreal forest with a spectacular view of Lake Superior. The course is marked with flags and aid stations are provided, but the race is for serious bikers only. Race will begin at Lutsen Mountains ski area. There is also a 39-mile race. For more info or to sign up, visit www.lutsen99er.com.

Fourth of July Celebrations July 4

The Fourth of July brings numerous shindigs throughout the Northern Wilds, so pick a spot and join the fun. Celebrate with a zip line tour at Gunflint Lodge on the Gunflint Trail, open from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Or visit Tofte for the 33rd annual Tofte Trek 10k Wilderness Run and Walk. Afterwards, stay for games, food, face painting, a beer garden, live music and a parade at 2 p.m. Later, enjoy a spaghetti dinner at the Lutheran Church from 5-7 p.m. Then head to Grand Marais for an ice cream social at 6 p.m. at the First Congregational Church, the “Light Up the Night” parade at 8 p.m. and live music in Harbor Park at 8:30 p.m. End the night watching the fireworks display over Lake Superior at dusk in Grand Marais, Tofte or Grand Portage. Other great places to celebrate the Fourth include Ely, Silver Bay and Duluth. Visit www.ely.org, www.silverbay. com or www.visitduluth.com for more details.

July 26 - 28, 2013 www.NorthShoreDragonBoat.com 218-370-9461 info@northshoredragonboat.com

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NORTHERN WILDS JUNE - JULY 2013

Summer Events Local Artists & Musicians June 17 – August 26 Tuesdays this Summer at Area Businesses

www.ely.org

Whiteside Park in Ely July 25 – 27 300 Exhibitors

T H U N D E R B AY ’ S S U M M E R M U S I C A L T R A D I T I O N

BLUES FEST The 12th Annual

Whiteside Park in Ely September 5 – 7 125 Exhibitors

4 - 9 pm

Local Artists & Musicians Whiteside Park in Ely June 6 – 8

Local Artists & Musicians June 17 – August 26 Tuesdays this Summer at Area Businesses

Summer in Ely — www.ely.org

JULY 4

Activities in Local Artists & Whiteside Musicians Park Whiteside Park in Ely June 17 – August 26 JulyFireworks 25 – 27 1 pm: Parade Dusk: Tuesdays this Summer at Area Businesses

JULY 5 - 7 2013

MARINA PARK THUNDER BAY ON ✯ COLLECTIVE SOUL ✯ CANADA Whiteside Park in Ely Whiteside Park in Ely ✯ GREAT BIG SEA ✯ July 25 – 27PH: 807.684.4444 September –7 TICKETS ORDER5 ONLINE AT WWW.TBCA.COM 300 Exhibitors 125 Exhibitors www.tbayblues.ca /TBayBlues @TBayblues ✯ FRI JULY 5 ✯

✯ SAT JULY 6 ✯

✯ SUN JULY 7 ✯

COLLECTIVE SOUL

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de Park in Ely une 6 – 8

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JUNE 11 - AUG 27

300 Exhibitors

The Steepwater Band Cliff Stevens Band Tracy K

Whiteside Park in Ely September 5 – 7 125 Exhibitors Produced By

Summer in Ely — www.ely.org In Conjunction With

Gates Open at 11 AM

Mingo Fishtrap Samantha Fish Melvin Taylor Quinn Sullivan The Groove Merchants The Chain Sponsored By

Gates Open at 11 AM

The Family Stone Kim Mitchell Davina and the Vagabonds J.W. JONES Blues Band Too Slim and the Taildraggers Doug Deming & The Jewel Tones Rebel Spirit Hospitality

Dan’s Emergency Road Service Canadian Tire - Thunder Centre

PINEWOOD FORD

Franklin Tempelton Investments Hertz Equipment J&J Sports Microage

Presented By

Music World Academy National Car & Truck Rental Northern Lights Golf Complex Recool Sharon Timko - Scotiabank

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July 26 - 28 • Whiteside Park

Art & Craft Exhibitors

Summer Sept 6 - 8 in Ely — www.ely.org

Whiteside Park

Art & Craft Exhibitors Musical Entertainment Whiteside Park in Ely September 5 – 7 125 Exhibitors

Friends A-1 Sewage Services Apex Investigation Colosimo’s Music Genivar

Memorial Avenue

Thunder Bay Laser Clinic Wanson Lumber Wayne Hacquoil

Thunder Bay’s Greatest Hits

Visit www.tbayblues.ca For * Complete Artist Profiles & Biographies * Shuttle/Parking Information * Where To Stay Guide * Gate Times

NORTHERN WILDS JUNE - JULY 2013

Cooper Ternes turns a bowl at the Grand Marais Arts Festival. | KJERSTI VICK

12th Annual Thunder Bay Blues Festival July 5-7

The Hovland Town Hall is busy during the Hovland Arts Festival. | LOU PIGNOLET

Hovland Arts Festival July 6-7

Enjoy local arts and crafts with the Hovland Arts Festival. It will take place at the Hovland Town Hall and begin at 10 a.m. each day. Local arts and crafts on sale include jewelry, photography, wood art and furniture, fiber arts, beeswax candles, wreaths, fused glasswork and more. The festival will also include food and live music. For more info, visit www.hovlandartsfestival.com.

Hopped Up Caribou Beer Festival July 12-13

Beer lovers unite for the 2nd annual Hopped Up Caribou Beer Festival at Caribou Highlands at Lutsen Mountains. Join the homegrown brewing heroes, picked for their amazing quality and mastery in the craft. Join many other beer lovers and brewers as you swap stories and share recipes.

Visit www.caribouhighlands.com for more info.

BY CHOICE HOTELS

Once again, the Thunder Bay Blues Festival features amazing artists, making for a great weekend of music. This year’s festival includes the Los Lonely Boys, Great Big Sea, Collective Soul, Los Lobos, Tracy K, The Family Stone, Cliff Stevens Band, The Steepwater Band and many more. The festival will take place in the Marina Park in Thunder Bay. Tickets can be purchased per day or as a weekend pass. Visit www.tbayblues.ca.

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NORTHERN WILDS JUNE - JULY 2013

Silver/Beaver Bay Days July 12-14

Silver Bay and Beaver Bay will be holding their annual Bay Days celebration July 12-14. Activities include a car show, parade, street dance, carnival games, street vendors, live music, kickball games, a boat display, the 8th annual Bay to Bay Run/ Walk and much more. For a full list of the events schedule, visit www.baydays.com.

23rd Annual Grand Marais Arts Festival July 13-14

Spend the day in downtown Grand Marais for the 23rd annual Grand Marais Arts Festival. The festival features over 70 local and region-

k l o F r e v e oF r 11 Years

Live from the Rock

Folk Festival August 9-11

Red Rock, Ontario Canada Just 1 Hour East of Thunder Bay

Forever Folk • More • Than Just Music ∙ Children’s Activities ∙ Yoga Classes ∙ Open Mic ∙ Craft Workshops

25 Musicians on 4 Stages:

www.livefromtherockfolkfestival.com

Gunflint Trail Canoe Races July 17

Spend the afternoon on the lake with the Gunflint Trail Canoe Races at the Gunflint Lodge waterfront.

Activities include a silent auction, eating contest, canoe races, games for the kids, a raffle with over 100 items donated by local merchants and much more. Raffle tickets are $5 and all proceeds go to the Gunflint Trail Volunteer Fire Department.

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Roots Blues Country Bluegrass Celtic Weekend Pass - $60 for Adults ∙ $50 for Youth & Seniors ∙ $10 for Children Advance tickets on sale until July 31 - call Colosimo’s in Thunder Bay 807-344-4021 On-site Camping Available - purchase $20 passes at the gate

al artists showcasing their unique handcrafted work. Talk with individual artists and view demonstrations. Crafts range from jewelry, fiber and photography to ceramics, glass, sculptures and more. The Arts Festival begins at 9 a.m. on Saturday and 10 a.m. on Sunday. Visit www. grandmaraisartcolony.org.

conferenceservices.lakeheadu.ca (807) 343.8799 Thunder Bay . Ontario . Canada

NORTHERN WILDS JUNE - JULY 2013

Events will begin at 4 p.m. and continue until 8 p.m. For more info, call 218-388-2246.

Money Exchange

2013 Tall Ships Festival

Duty Free Liquor

July 25-29

The Tall Ships Festival is returning to the Duluth harbor again this year. View numerous ships from around the world, such as the Peacemaker built in Brazil, the SS Sorlandet from Norway and Schooner Hindu from Key West. Tickets are available for on-board tours and dockside viewing but hurry as tickets are limited. For more info, go to www.visitduluth.com or call 877-435-9849 to buy your tickets now.

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Fisherman’s Picnic

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August 1-4

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We invite you to visit us in the gallery or browse through our online shop − www.ahnisnabae-art.com.

7-1500 James St. S., Mount McKay Place, Thunder Bay, Ontario CANADA

1-807-577-2656 • Hours: Tues-Fri 11 am - 7 pm • Sat Noon - 4 pm

For more information please email us at: louisethomas@ahnisnabae-art.com

Gas

Sawmill and Planing Mill

Be a part of the excitement, teamwork and cheering with the annual North Shore Dragon Boat Festival in the Grand Marais Harbor. Register as a team or individual paddler. The festival also includes live music, dragon egg hunts, sunrise yoga, a parade, a pancake breakfast, vendors and more.

Visit www.northshoredragonboat.com.

AHNISNABAE ART GALLERY

Cafe/Motel 10,000 U.S. and Canadian Souvenirs

Sawmill TourS Hedstrom Lumber Co. will be offering tours of the

North Shore Dragon Boat Festival

The Grand Marais annual Fisherman’s Picnic Festival is packed full with fun for the whole family. Activities include vendors, crazy day sales, numerous contests, live music, street dances, kids’ rides, bingo, a parade and fireworks. There’s also Hoopin’ in the Harbor, tennis and softball tournaments, a trail run and the Big Fish contest at Buck's Hardware. Check out the Library Friends' Annual Used Book Sale at the Community Center and

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Get your face painted at one of the region’s summer festivals. | KJERSTI VICK

don’t forget to try your luck winning the grand prize of $10,000 by buying a $5 raffle ticket from the Lions Club. Visit www.cookcountymnevents. com for more info on events.

L oc

ated near the bre

atht a

king

Global Flags

Kakabeka Falls

& Banners

Souvenirs • Windsocks • Moccasins Canada & Thunder Bay T-Shirts, Sweatshirts & Fleece Jackets • Weather Vanes Kakabeka Falls Jackets, T-shirts and Polos Local Arts & Crafts • Gifts • Outback Western Wear • Canadian Artwork & Books Country, Seasonal and Garden Flags • Amethyst • Fudge globalflags@tbaytel.net 4781 Hwy 11-17 W, Kakabeka Falls, ONT

www.globalflagsandbanners.c a

807-577-2435

Tours may be canceled without notice — RSVP required!

HedSTrom lumber Company

218-387-2995 · 1504 Gunflint Trail, Grand marais, mn

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NORTHERN WILDS JUNE - JULY 2013

JUNE 7-9

JUNE 21-23

Benny Birch’s Birthday Party

Wooden Boat Show and Summer Solstice Festival

Chippewa Park, Thunder Bay, ON www.thunderbay.ca

JUNE 8, SATURDAY

North House Folk School Grand Marais www.northhouse.org

Timber Hall, Embarrass, 218-984-3012

JUNE 22, SATURDAY

Finnish-American Summer Festival

MAY 11-AUGUST 31

Ice Age Mammals Exhibit

Red Rock Marina Centre, Red Rock, ON www.redrocktownship.ca

MAY 30-JUNE 2

Northern Landscapes Festival Grand Marais www.northhouse.org

MAY 23-JUNE 9

Secondary School Art 2013 Thunder Bay Art Gallery www.theag.ca

JUNE 1, SATURDAY

Early Morning Bird Walk at Chik-Wauk Chik-Wauk Museum and Nature Center Gunflint Trail, 7 a.m., www.chikwauk.com

JUNE 1-2

17th Annual Trout Derby Red Rock, ON, 8 a.m. www.redrockfishandgame.com

JUNE 2, SUNDAY

Spring on the Farm

Fort William Historical Park Thunder Bay, ON, 10 a.m.

807-473-2344

Split Rock Lighthouse, Two Harbors, 10 a.m. www.mnhs.org

www.backyardcampout.org

Animal Allies Walk for Animals

Split Rock Lighthouse Two Harbors, 10 a.m. www.mnhs.org

Children’s Day

Bayfront Park Duluth, 9 a.m. www.animalallies.net

End of the Road Rendezvous Ely, www.ely.org June 15, Saturday

JUNE 18, TUESDAY

JUNE 19, WEDNESDAY

Behind the Scenes Visit North American Bear Center Ely, 1 p.m. www.bear.org

JUNE 21, FRIDAY

William A. Irvin 5K

Duluth, 6 p.m. www.grandmasmarathon.com

Fourth of July in Ely

Pigeon River Provincial Park Ontario, 10 a.m. www.superiorvisits.com

Minnesota Deer Hunters Association Arrowhead’s 8th Annual Banquet American Legion Grand Marais, 4:30 p.m. - doors open harrispc@boreal.org

Garry Bjorklund Half Marathon

Giant Digital Photography Workshops Photo Safari Hike

Hope Church Thunder Bay, ON, 7 p.m. www.sowetogospelchoir.com

JUNE 26, WEDNESDAY

Women’s Golf Tournament Silver Bay Golf Course www.silverbaygolf.com

JUNE 26-28

Camp Bear Paw: Ages 8-11 North American Bear Center Ely, 10 a.m. www.bear.org

JUNE 28, FRIDAY

Fishcake Dinner Benefit St. John’s Catholic Church Grand Marais, 5:30 p.m. www.cookcountyhistory.org

All meat is ground fresh at the Station or smoked in-house.

Great Food.

Around for 105 years, Silver Mountain Station is a great, welcoming destination for individuals or groups. Whether you come by car, snowmobile, atv, motorcycle, or horseback we offer a beautiful location and great food!

Wild game served seasonally.

Throughout Cook County Fireworks at Dusk www.ely.org

Fourth of July in Silver Bay www.silverbay.com

City of Duluth Fourth Fest Duluth www.visitduluth.com

Janet Gensler Memorial 4 Mile Run and Walk Miner’s Lake Ely, 8 a.m., www.ely.org

Menu featuring all-you-can-eat Prime Rib buffet

A Great Place to Meet.

JULY 1, MONDAY

Canada Day Celebrations

Grandma’s Marathon

St. Louis River, Duluth www.lpbg.org

Soweto Gospel Choir

11th Ave. East and London Road Duluth, 9 a.m., www.chumduluth.org

JULY 4, THURSDAY

13th Annual Lincoln Park Walleye Open

10 a.m. www.grandmaraismn.com

Lutsen Mountains, 7:30 a.m. www.lutsen99er.com

Fourth of July Celebrations

Duluth, 6:45 a.m. www.grandmasmarathon.com

Grand Marais Classic Car Show

Lutsen 99er Ultra Mountain Bike Race

Marina Park and Fort William Historical Park Thunder Bay, ON, www.thunderbay.ca/parks

Two Harbors, 7:45 a.m. www.grandmasmarathon.com

JUNE 14-16

JUNE 29, SATURDAY

Rhubarb Festival

Great American Backyard Campout

Split Rock Lighthouse Open House Red Rock Trout Derby

CALENDAR

Murder Mystery Dinners!

JULY 5-7

North Shore Federal Credit Union Classic Tennis Tournament Tennis Courts Grand Marais www.cookcountytennis.org

12th Annual Blues Festival Marina Park Thunder Bay, ON www.tbayblues.ca

JULY 6-7

Hovland Arts Festival

Hovland Town Hall, 10 a.m.

Hovland Arts Festival on Facebook

1-807-475-4406 Mon-Wed 2pm-8pm Thurs-Sun 12pm-9pm www.silvermountainstation.com or find us on Twitter and FaceBook 30 minutes from the border in Silver Mountain, Ontario Canada on the corner of ON 593 & ON 588.

NORTHERN WILDS JUNE - JULY 2013

15

CALENDAR For more calendar listings, log on to: www.NorthernWilds.com JULY 10-13

Watercolor Show

Arts and Heritage Center, Ely, www.ely.org

JULY 11, THURSDAY

Grill Wars VI

Fitger’s, Duluth, 5 p.m., 728-9500

JULY 12-13

Hopped Up Caribou Beer Festival Caribou Highlands Lutsen, www.caribouhighlands.com

JULY 18-20

Hermantown Summerfest

Hermantown www.hermantownsummerfest.com

JULY 19, FRIDAY

JULY 19-20

14th Annual Craft and Antique Show

Park Point, Duluth www.grandmasmarathon.com

Thunder Bay Dragon Boat Festival

Silver Bay and Beaver Bay www.bay-days.com

15th Lake Superior Wooden Boat Festival

Sky Harbor Airport, Duluth www.duluthaviationinstitute.org

JULY 13, SATURDAY

Planked Trout Dinner RV Park and Campground Grand Marais, 5:30 p.m. www.cookcountyhistory.org

All Pints North Summer Brew Fest Bayfront Park, Duluth, 3 p.m. www.mncraftbrew.org

8th Annual Bay to Bay Run and Walk Silver Bay and Beaver Bay, 8:45 a.m. www.silverbay.com

JULY 25-29

Park Point 5-Miler/2 Mile Walk

JULY 12-14

Lark O’ The Lake Aviation Festival

Split Rock Lighthouse Two Harbors, 10 a.m. www.mnhs.org

Tall Ships 2013

Boulevard Lake, Thunder Bay, ON www.paddlesport.org

Silver Beaver Bay Days

Lake Superior Day

JULY 20, SATURDAY

Barker’s Island Marina, Superior, WI, 10 a.m. www.stewartriver.com

8th Annual Reggae and World Music Festival Bayfront Park, Duluth www.bayfrontreggae.com

Duluth Triathlon

Duluth, 8 a.m., www.duluthtriathlon.com

Buzz Ryan Sprint Triathlon

Duluth, 8 a.m., www.buzzryantri.com

Mudman 5K Obstacle Course Race

Spirit Mountain, Duluth, www.mudmanrace.com

Giant Digital Photography Workshops Creative Coastal Photography

Duluth , www.visitduluth.com

JULY 26-27

Ely, 9 a.m., www.ely.org

JULY 26-28

North Shore Dragon Boat Festival Harbor Park, Grand Marais www.northshoredragonboat.com

Blueberry Art Festival Whiteside Park, Ely www.ely.org

JULY 26-27

Monsters of Mud Long Branch Winton MN www.ely.org

JULY 31, WEDNESDAY

The Grand Marais Arts Festival

St. John’s Catholic Church Grand Marais, 4:30 p.m. www.gmlions.com

Library Friends Annual Used Book Sale

Fishcake Buffet Dinner and Silent Auction

AUG. 1-3

JULY 31-AUG. 4

Cook County Community Center Grand Marais 218-387-2608

Tennis Courts, Grand Marais www.cookcountytennis.org

Fisherman’s Picnic

Heritage Days

Arrowhead Center for the Arts Grand Marais, 6 p.m. www.arrowheadcenterforthearts.org

JULY 17, WEDNESDAY

Finland Softball Tournament

JULY 20-21

Fisherman’s Picnic Junior Tennis Tournament

JULY 13-14

23rd Annual Grand Marais Arts Festival Grand Marais www.grandmaraisartcolony.org

Two Harbors, www.thheritagedays.com

Gunflint Trail Canoe Races Gunflint Lodge Waterfront Gunflint Trail, 4 p.m.

218-388-2246

JULY 17-18

Camp Bear Paw: Ages 8-11 North American Bear Center Ely, 10 a.m., www.bear.org

Neys Provincial Park, Ontario, 10 a.m. www.superiorvisits.com

Century of Jazz 2013

Finland, 218-353-0300

Salmon Classic

Silver Bay Marina, Silver Bay www.silverbay.com

JULY 21, SUNDAY

Lake Superior Day

Marina Park, Thunder Bay, ON, 10 a.m. www.thunderbay.ca

37th Annual Fisherman’s Picnic Tennis Tournament

AUG. 1-2

Tennis Courts, Grand Marais www.cookcountytennis.org

AUG. 1-4

Grand Marais www.cookcountymnevents.com

AUG. 2-4

16th Annual Kayak Festival Two Harbors www.kayakfestival.org

White Pine north

15 W Wisconsin St 877-387-1695

DISTINCTIVE NORTHWOODS GIFTS

Yarn Harbor

is a full service yarn shop supplying the community with beautiful yarns, books, notions & classes.

Check out our Monthy Summer Beer Tasting Nights See our website for details.

Check out our website and blog for classes & additional events website: www.yarnharborduluth.com Find us on Facebook! blog: yarnharbor.wordpress.com

103 Mount Royal Shopping Circle Duluth, MN 55803 • 218-724-6432 Sun 12-5 • Mon 12-8 • Tues & Wed 10-5 Thurs 10-7 • Fri & Sat 10-5

Regional Books · Selective Clothing · Specialty Coffees & Teas · Gourmet Foods & Fine Chocolates

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NORTHERN WILDS JUNE - JULY 2013

Appearing to have sailed across centuries, the Peacemaker was built in southern Brazil in 1989. | PHOTO COURTESY OF THE PEACEMAKER

NORTHERN WILDS JUNE - JULY 2013

By Breana Roy Not everyone is as crazy about pirates as I am, but everyone is bound to have a favorite tall ship story. Such stories include the classic Treasure Island by Robert Louis Stevenson or my favorite, Disney’s Pirates of the Caribbean with the infamous Captain Jack Sparrow. Now imagine those gigantic and majestic ships being sailed in those stories with such ease and grace, gliding through the deep waters of Lake Superior.

Huge white sails, or possibly black with skulls, are on the horizon and inching closer and closer to shore.

You can see such a sight in July. An entire fleet of ships will be arriving in the Duluth Harbor for the 2013 Tall Ships Festival July 25-29. Ten ships will be attending this year’s festival, compared to the eight ships that attended the last Tall Ships Festival. The previous festival, held in 2010, attracted an estimated quarter million people from all over the country, including 42 different states and four Canadian provinces.

“We’re hoping to have the same amount of visitors this year as well. We estimate about 250,000 over the four days this year.” said Gene Shaw, director of public relations at Visit Duluth.

17

Some of the ships attending the festival include the SS Sorlandet, Peacemaker, Schooner Hindu, Flagship Niagara, Pride of Baltimore II, S/V Denis Sullivan, Coaster II and the Privateer Lynx. Many of these ships hail from all over the world, such as Brazil, Key West and Norway.

Each ship also has a unique history.

Many of the ships will provide on-board tours with a ticket purchase. Other ships will be providing day sails three times a day. Or, if you’d prefer not to buy a ticket, then simply sit on the shore and watch the white sails billow in the wind. Either way, it’s sure to be magical.

Minnesota’s Captain Jack will also be attending this year’s festival, which is pretty exciting for any Pirates of the Caribbean fan.

He may be an impersonator, but his resemblance to Johnny Depp’s character is uncanny.

Don’t miss the opportunity to see some of the most acclaimed ships worldwide.

This event is rain-or-shine so dress accordingly. More info on the ships and festival can be found at www.visitduluth. com. Ticket prices vary and are available for on-board tours and dockside viewing, but order quickly and keep an eye on the horizon.

Head rigging on the S/V Denis Sullivan | CHRIS WINTERS

LEFT: The S/V Denis Sullivan also serves as a floating classroom, focusing on enhancing awareness of freshwater lakes. The schooner offers day sails and private charters for all ages from May through September.

ABOVE CENTER: A group of adults partaking in the life of a crew member on the S/V Denis Sullivan | Photos by CHRIS WINTERS

ABOVE RIGHT: The SS Sorlandet, meaning Southland, was built in 1927. It was a gift to south Norway by O.A.T. Skjelbred. Nowadays, the cost would be about $100 million, making it the biggest private donation in the history of Norway. Today, it is a year-round operation with West Island International College as a float school. | CAPTAIN BJARKE E. WAHLQVIST.

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NORTHERN WILDS JUNE - JULY 2013

6 4

. e e S o t h c u m So uch to Do. So m Burton Forge & Gallery 10 Hand Forged Ironwork Blacksmithing Thurs-Mon 1-5 443 Scenic 61 Dr. Two Harbors

2

Functional Art Dale Burton 218-834-5183 www.burtonforge.com

7

218 Scenic Drive, Knife River, MN 55609

Open 7 days a week!

218-834-2501

• Full Bar • Fresh Lake Superior Fish • Burgers • Pasta • Kids’ Menu

www.lighthouseatemilys.com

Great Lakes Candy Kitchen Handmade Chocolates and Candies Nutty Ice Cream Bars, Caramel Apples Fudge, Turtles & Toffee

8

Summer Hours: 10 am - 7 pm daily

223 Scenic Drive • Knife River, MN • 218-834-2121

5

3

Unwind & relax in authentic log cabins on Lake Superior’s North shore

Dodges Log Lodges est. 1932

5852 N. Shore Scenic 61 • Year-Round DodgesLodges.com • 218-525-4085

5 4 6 1 north shore scenic dr.

218.525.6274 newsceniccafe.com

NORTHERN WILDS JUNE - JULY 2013

Agate

19

Tips for agate picking on the North Shore

By Javier Serna There’s a reason Minnesota has designated the Lake Superior agate as the state gemstone: They’re beautiful and unique.

And while some of the best agate picking actually is done miles and miles (as far as an Iowa corn field) away from the Great Lake where they were formed, there is no more scenic place to go looking for agates than the North Shore.

But where to start?

Teresa Bartel, co-owner of the Beaver Bay Agate Shop, offered these tips and hints:

beach that has a lot of rock with a lot of variation. “Don’t look for it in sand dunes, and don’t look for it in a pile of granite. If everything is the same, you probably won’t find any there. It’s probably just a layer of whatever kind of rock that is,” Bartel says.

Follow the storms: Storms giveth, and they taketh away, Bartel said. That is, storms can bring new agates ashore, but they can also pull agates away from shore. Regardless, just after a storm has passed is a good time to go looking. But other natural movement can unearth new agates, too, such as ice shelving in the winter, or just big waves.

Go deep: Directly at the water’s Look for waxy: Ever try to describe edge, most of the agates you’ll find are

to someone what a Lake Superior agate looks like? It’s difficult. No two are alike. Not all have exposed bands. Not all agates have bands. Some are pockmarked. But they all look waxy, Bartel said, so start there.

pea-sized. But if you want to find bigger ones, they can sometimes be found out in the water. So it’s best to look on a clear, calm day, when sun will shine down on an unobstructed view to the lake bottom.

“You can’t exactly look for pock marks, because everything on the entire North Shore is pock-marked,” Bartel notes.

Bring tools: Some experienced agate pickers have specialized equipment to help them. For those windy days hunting along the beach, when the water isn’t calm, they’ve learned to cut a

Look for good rock: Try to find a

piece of PVC pipe and glue a piece of plexiglass to one end, allowing them to get a look at submerged rock even on windy days.

Others bring along little shovels and other implements allowing them to sort and sift through rock without having to bend over.

Don’t limit yourself to the beaches: Many of the streams enter-

ing Lake Superior are a good place to look for agates. Head to the bends of those streams, where sticks and debris get caught up. While that may make it harder to find things, there can be agates stuck among them, too.

It’s hit and miss: While some beaches may have agates, go a few feet and there may be none. “But any place you

Lake Views 1

Duluth

Picking agates along Lake Superior beaches is a great way to spend an afternoon.

I THOMAS J. SPENCE

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on Lake Superior

664 Old N. Shore Rd. Two Harbors, MN 218-834-4583

2 3

N

clean - comfortable - great lake views

& Bottle Shop

5133 North Shore Drive 218-525-5775 capesuperiorinn.com

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4

CAPE SUPERIOR INN

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9 1

can get on the beach is worth looking,” Bartel said. If you get frustrated trying to find good rock to look at, hit some of the tried and true agate spots, such as Flood Bay in Two Harbors, Paradise Beach near Grand Marais and the Beaver River in Beaver Bay.

Keep looking: As much fun as agate picking can be, it can also be frustrating, say if you go with a friend and she is the one to find that pounder. You want one, too.

“You can’t get them all,” Bartel laughs. “You can only get the easy ones. … You just have to be at the right place at the right time. A lot of it has to do with luck. That rock catches your eye and you have to go and investigate. It’s a blast. And it’s cheap fun.”

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Two Harbors

e. e S o t h c So muuch to Do. So m

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NORTHERN WILDS JUNE - JULY 2013

Thunder Bay’s Prince Arthur’s Landing at Marina Park

By Elle Andra-Warner

art, dining, distinctive landscapes and excellent lake-view lookouts.

If you haven’t been to Thunder Bay’s waterfront for a while, it is time to come back for a visit and experience one of Canada’s newest recreational gathering places. Prince Arthur’s Landing at Marina Park is Thunder Bay’s revitalized waterfront, a mixed-use development that incorporates recreational, historical, cultural, commercial and residential uses.

In addition to being Thunder Bay’s signature, fully-accessible recreation area for all ages, the Prince Arthur’s Landing has a full-service marina with more than 250 slips. It is home to Thunder Bay’s largest series of public art installations, each embodying the spirit, history, geography and culture of Northwestern Ontario.

Back in 1870, when British Colonel Garnet Joseph Wolseley landed here with 1,200 troops he found the place simply called ‘’Depot’’ or ‘’The Landing”. He gave it the name “Prince Arthur’s Landing” in honour of England’s Prince Arthur. Now 143 years later, Wolseley’s landing area is a world-class waterfront hub with something for everyone – from walking/biking trails and family activities to public

“The vision for Prince Arthur’s Landing includes an important commitment to public art, which features the amazing talent of regional artists”, said Calvin Borook, architect. “The waterfront will become an arts-based destination drawing visitors from the region, Canada and around the world”.

A walking tour of the diverse collection of public art at Prince Arthur’s Landing is reminiscent of Europe, where even the smallest town celebrates

The fountain and splash pond at Prince Arthur Landing is a kid-friendly focal point for the marina area.

art with displays of statues, sculptures and creative works. Included in the Prince Arthur’s Landing collection are 13 written art installations of poems, quotes and excerpts by local, regional and national writers distributed throughout the park, like the following engraved on a granite bench at the Waterfront Plaza:

78-foot diameter viewing circle, where people can look stop, relax and have a clear view of the lighthouse and of Lake Superior beyond the breakwater, the iconic landform of the Sleeping Giant (aka Nanabijou). And one can’t help but smile at the whimsical 10 stone-balloon animals installation, named “Naturally Inflated,’’in the Children’s Garden – “If I were an artist, I would choose they bring out the child that is still in Thunder Bay in a storm as the grandest all of us. representation of the end of the world.”

One of the most popular features at Catherine Moodie Vickers (1873).

Prince Arthur’s Landing for children is The art installations are a wonder- the state-of-the-art Splash Pad, which ful melding of leading-edge 21st cen- in winter becomes an outdoor skating tury artwork with the historic tradition rink, making it a year-round attracof art in public places. For example, tion. Adjacent to the pool is the Water there’s the stunning, shiny, gigantic Garden Pavilion which houses a conaluminum water droplets on the patio temporary-designed bight Restaurant of the Water Garden Pavilion, titled & Bar (great food and ambience) and the “Traveller’s Return,” that reflect the Mariner’s Hall, which features exhibits powerful waters of Lake Superior and about the waterfront history. Nearby is the travellers who have arrived/departed the historical building of the two-story from here over time. Along the tree- Baggage Building Art Centre where lined walkway on the Picnic Docks visitors can browse and purchase from leading to the end of Pier Two, there a large collection of locally produced art are the vibrant, colourful pieces called or participate in a variety of programs.

“Lanterns,’’ digital works on glass that The Landing has been called a ‘’series explore man’s relationship with water continued on page 41 » and nature. At the end of the pier is a

NORTHERN WILDS JUNE - JULY 2013

21

A Shorebird Lost In The Woods Cresting a rise on the way back to my truck, I watched my black Lab Bella course through the woods. Her tail began to spin and wag – a sure sign she was scenting a game bird – before she suddenly stopped, and came to a point.

Through My Lens

I inched forward, camera ready. Crouching, in front of her was a smallish buffy

BY MICHAEL FURTMAN orange-breasted bird. Before I could take a photo, it twittered into flight and disappeared over the same rise we had just crossed. I looked around, picked out a few landmarks to aid my memory, and continued to the truck, intent on returning without the dog.

What we had found and flushed was an American Woodcock, a delightful and strange member of the shorebird family. Yes, shorebird. Somewhere in its past, this shorebird adapted to living in the forests of the eastern United States and Canada. Minnesota is at the eastern edge of its breeding range, which doesn’t extend more than a couple hundred miles north of the Great Lakes. Like all shorebirds, it migrates south for the winter, spending those months largely along the Gulf Coast. Unlike other shorebirds, the woodcock is a game bird and is passionately hunted by its devotees. The only other shorebird that is also hunted is the similarly sized and shaped Wilson’s (common) snipe.

Here in Northern Wilds country, the woodcock is a common breeding bird, though not commonly seen.

Secretive and tending to live in thick, brushy country that is often damp, it just isn’t the kind of bird you’ll stumble across very often, and if you do, it is just as likely to sink to the ground where its mottled brown, black and tan feathers allow it to disappear into the leafy forest floor while you saunter past it unawares.

Many of us, however, do anticipate their early spring arrival, because at that time, just at dusk and into the darkness, the male woodcock performs an energetic aerial mating display that is just plain cool to watch.

From an opening in the forest, the male woodcock launches himself nearly straight up into the air, the wind in his wings making a high twittering sound.

At the top of his rise, he circles, causing the twittering of his wings to come in well-spaced bursts. Finally, he plunges toward the earth, and the wing-sounds become louder and more chirp-like.

You might think that just because Bella and I found a woodcock in the woods, it would hardly be worth remembering where it was. After all, what are the odds it would be there when I later returned? What had me excited is that this bird was near Lake Superior, in an

The plumage of the American woodcock allows it to virtually disappear on the forest floor. | MICHAEL FURTMAN

area of short turf that received afternoon sun, was protected by spruce trees, and so was free of snow. Most of the rest of the landscape was still covered in the deep snow of the never-ending winter of 2012-13. It was my hope that he’d stay to take advantage of the snow free area. And he did.

two things. First the rising and falling may allow him to triangulate his hearing, because he didn’t just walk along randomly probing. When he did plunge his bill into the soil, it was because he believed something was there. Most of the time, he came up with a grub, worm, or insect.

I spent the next week, on and off, searching for and photographing this fascinating bird. I was able to watch him hunker down when he thought he was in danger, sinking into the leafy duff until he was invisible. I once found him tight up against a tree trunk, head under his wing, sheltering against yet another snow squall. And I watched him successfully capture and eat numerous earth worms and other tidbits when he did venture out to feed.

The other function might be an attempt to drive prey toward the surface through vibrations created by his rhythm, or cause things to move so that they can be heard. I’ve watch Hermit Thrushes, another forest bird that feeds on much the same foods, stand with one leg trembling, as if in uncontrollable shivers. I suspect those vibrations also help locate food or cause it to move so that they can hear it.

Woodcock feed by probing the ground with their long “sandpiper-like” bill. But unlike sandpipers, they have very, very short legs better suited for hunting near the ground rather than wading. Just how he hunted was fascinating.

As he strutted about, the woodcock would pump his body up and down, one leg in advance of the other, moving ahead slowly and steadily. I can only speculate what this technique accomplishes, but I can think of

Whatever the purpose – and I’m sure there must be one – his bobbing walk was both charming and humorous. Had the weather conditions not been just perfect to delay his migration, had Bella not found it first, I would have missed one of the most enjoyable weeks of my photography life. For while the woodcock may be the shorebird that got lost in the woods, they are so well adapted to it that few of us will ever otherwise encounter one. If you ever do, take the chance to sit quietly and watch. You’ll likely never get another opportunity!

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NORTHERN WILDS JUNE - JULY 2013

NORTHERN WILDS JUNE - JULY 2013

Geocaching Waypoints to Adventure

Above and right: A tiny treasure chest discovered along the Trans-Canada Highway. Josh and a crevasse cache near Pass Lake.

From left: Aubrey Ellis shows the tools of the trade—a geocache box and a GPS unit. Aubrey and Josh with cache they found in Grand Marais. Josh seeks a cache beneath a waterfall near Wolf Lake.

Story and photos by Josh and Aubrey Ellis Imagine driving along a northern highway and your GPS seems to be leading to the middle of nowhere. But you’ve heard something is there. And you want to find it. Following your trusty GPS, you leave the safety of your vehicle and wander down a dirt trail.

As the units on the GPS decrease, you discover an awesome new landscape. Vistas open up that you never imagined. When you’ve finished taking in the sights, your attention returns to the task at hand. The distance to your destination is growing shorter now, only a few hundred feet to go. The anticipation mounts.

You begin to survey everything around, looking for something that might seem slightly out of place--a hole in a tree, perhaps, or a hollow under a rock, anywhere your quarry might hide.

You’re not quite sure what you are looking for, but you’ve searched so long that you begin to think it might not be there at all. And then, finally, you spot it, in a place where you swear you’ve looked before. The treasure that you seek is an unassuming can, the kind the military uses for ammo. Whoever put it there repainted the can to blend in with its natural surroundings. Dozens of people walk by every season and never know it’s there.

life and all ages. It’s a great way for families and friends to enjoy the outdoors together and have fun. Geocache containers are as diverse as the geocachers who hide and seek them. When you start searching for geocaches, you will soon learn that they come in all shapes and sizes.

Some are large, such as a rain barrel filled with all manner of goodies, and some are as small as a dime, with little more than a scrap of paper on which to scribble your name.

You pry open the lid and peer inside. The box is filled with an assortment of knickknacks and some shiny tokens with tracking numbers.

There is also a journal, filled with tales of those who came before. You take out your pen and sign your name, not your given name, but your geocaching alias. You’re a geocacher. You just earned a smiley.

As you begin to hide your own caches for others to find, the possibilities for concealment are endless. You might spend hours crafting what to the untrained eye looks like nothing more than an old log forgotten on the forest floor or a rock or a birdhouse in a tree. You might send those seeking your hide to several locations to gather clues that will lead them to the final stage. You might throw in a mystery, write a story or a riddle to draw the seeker in and make them scratch their head awhile.

Geocaching is a worldwide phenomenon enjoyed by thousands of people from all walks of

High-Tech History Adventures Once your cache is in place, and you’ve averaged waypoints to determine the best coordinates, it’s just a matter of posting the needed information on a listing site such as Geocaching. com and waiting for the local geocachers to scramble as they try to be the “first to find.”

Whether you live in the area, or are just passing through, our region has enough geocaches to keep you entertained. There are plenty of day trips and overnight excursions to be had.

If you need a break from a long drive on the North Shore, there is a geocache at every rest stop, many of which have jaw-dropping views.

You will find yourself discovering places that you never knew existed, even in your own neighborhood. Geocaching will expand your world.

Want help getting started? Check out these local groups: Minnesota Geocaching Association (MnGCA) at www.mngca.org or Northwest

Ontario Geocachers (NWOG) at www.nwogeocachers.com.

On the forums, you can introduce yourself and get to know other friendly and helpful geocachers who can suggest the best geocaches in the area. You will also find info on upcoming events such as the Spring Cache Challenge in Thunder Bay, Ontario, or a Breakfast Buddies Event, which takes place in various locations throughout Minnesota. Find out about Cache In Trash Out Initiatives (CITO), where geocachers pitch in to help clean up trash in local parks.

Whether you are looking for a leisurely stroll in the park with your kids, or an all-out adventure through rocky terrain and forests, the geocaches of our region are sure to deliver. Good luck--and happy caching.

Explore Northern Ontario’s history by participating in Parks Canada’s newly launched Heritage Hide’n’Seek GeoTour. Using a GPS or GPS-enabled smartphone, locate caches while learning interesting facts about important moments in Canadian history.

A GeoTour consists of a series of related geocaches found along a driving route or in a region that tell a story. Some sites in the Heritage Hide’n’Seek GeoTour are urban, like downtown Thunder Bay, while others are quite remote—Moose Factory Island requires a journey by train and boat.

Thunder Bay is host to a number of caches at well-known destinations, including the historic Finnish Labour Temple that houses the Hoito Restaurant, perhaps the oldest co-operatively owned and operated restaurant in Canada, and purveyor of Finnish pancakes and other traditional Finnish dishes. Venturing toward Thunder Bay’s newly developed marina, get a glimpse of the oldest operating tourist bureau in Canada--the Thunder Bay Tourist Pagoda Set up as a game, the Heritage Hide’n’Seek GeoTour guides adventurers to locations to learn about fascinating people, places and events that helped shape Canada. Each cache is assigned a point value depending on the level of difficulty involved in locating it. Anyone who collects 100+ points by finding several of the caches is eligible to receive a collectible coin from Parks Canada.

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Germans Invade Canoe Country Story and photos by Gaby Wurth and Werner Bahner When we visited Gunflint on our New Year holiday in 2003 we discovered the area had nearly no snow. It was a cold, cold winter. On Jan. 1, we walked across Gunflint Lake from Heston´s Lodge to Canada. We had this unbelievable black ice with this dark noise in the deep and no snow on the ice. It was something really special. The conditions for cross country skiing at Golden Eagle were poor, so we started with skiing over the lakes.

That was when we discovered how many lakes were nearby and how they were connected with portages. We decided to come back in the summer and try canoeing.

In 2003 we came for the first time in summer to stay two weeks at Golden Eagle Lodge. We had never sat in a canoe before, much less carried one on our shoulders. We tried canoeing by ourselves – Flour Lake up, Flour Lake down. Then we got more courageous and made a day trip from Flour Lake to East Bearskin, Alder Lake and Canoe Lake, walked to the Johnson Falls and paddled back.

Werner makes like a bear to ensure he’s hung the food pack high enough to avoid trouble.

Then – really daring – we rented a canoe at Rockwood Lodge and paddled Poplar-Lizz-CaribouHorseshoe-Allen-Jump-GaskinHorseshoe lakes and back. When we started in the morning, paddling against the wind, Rockwood owner Mike Sherfy thought he would never see his canoe and us again. But in the evening, we came back. Between the canoe trips we hiked the Caribou Rock Trail,

Border Route Trail and South Link Trail. After the two weeks at Golden Eagle we knew for sure that we’d return the following summer.

And so we did in 2004. Intrepid, we decided to stay two nights out in the BWCAW. Mike from Rockwoods brought us to Ham Lake, where we started. We paddled and portaged across HamCross-Bay-Rib- Lower George and Karl lakes to reach Long Island Lake, where we spent the first night. It was a wonderful feeling sitting at the campfire and watching the night coming. But that night in the tent we could not sleep, so certain were we that we’d hear the sounds of thousands of howling wolves and bears walking around the tent. But the next morning, seeing the awakening of the day in the Nature was fantastic, and we forgot the night.

The next day we paddled Long I s l a nd - Muske g- K isk a d i n n a Winchill lakes to Gaskin Lake, where we stayed overnight. The sunset was magnificent and the sleep was a lot better. The next day we paddled back: Gaskin-HensonP i l l s b e r r y - Sw a l l o w - M e a d s Caribou-Lizz Lake to Poplar. By the end of our two-week holiday on the Gunflint, we knew we’d be back again.

Every year we made a longer trip and, in 2007, we paddled from Ely to the Gunflint Trail. We rented our gear at Rockwoods, drove with the car and everything up to Ely. We started at Farm Lake and paddled back to Poplar Lake in 10 days (Kawishiwi River-

NORTHERN WILDS JUNE - JULY 2013

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Read this publication online!

Go to: www.northernwilds.com to sign up for the digital edition.

Discover

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ior uper ...a S sure Trea

G...A

.. S AILI

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www.RedRockTownship.ca Neophytes no more, Werner and Gaby tackle portages with smiles.

Lake Two-Insula-Thomas-FraserOgishkemuncie-Little SaganagaTuscarora-Cherokee-Winchell-Poplar).

We have had only one full day of rain between Fraser and Ogishkemuncie.

The rest was so exciting, it was the best time in our life.

At the end we did not want to go back to the civilization. You cannot really explain how it is out in the BWCAW – you have to feel it. Our car was still at Ely when we arrived at Rockwoods, where we relaxed for a few days. And then we flew back from Poplar Lake to Farm Lake with Dan Anderson and his seaplane. It was unbelievable to see all the lakes and portages from above,

which you crossed the days before – spectacular!

Back in Germany, we enthusiastically told all our friends about Minnesota, the Gunflint and the BWCAW. In 2009, our 30-year-old godchild and her husband came with us for two weeks to Gunflint. They loved it like we do. And this summer, the 17-year-old daughter and the 19-year-old son of our best friends will come with us. Since they are kids, they look to our pictures, and they are dreaming of this part of the world.

So the next generation of Germans falling in love with the BWCAW is guaranteed.

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NORTHERN WILDS JUNE - JULY 2013

In Search of a

Story and photos by Talon Stammen

Talon Stammen paddles his canoe in search of the perfect birch tree.

The scent of spruce pitch sizzling over the fire in a tin pail fills the evening air as I gum the seams of a birch bark canoe for its maiden journey on Lake of the Woods. Having taken every opportunity to be outdoors, I find great value in self-sufficiency and felt building a bark canoe would allow me to paddle in rhythm with the boreal wilderness.

I built my first canoe last summer after researching the history and construction of birch bark canoes, and with hopes of perpetuating the tradition of the bark canoe, I resolved to build another.

As the fire dies to a bed of glowing coals I crawl into my sleeping bag and gaze into the vast wilderness of stars.

How fortunate the world is that the wisdom of our ancestors is still alive.

Tomorrow, in preparation for building another canoe, I will scout for a canoe birch just as builders have done for millennia wherever the birches grow.

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With the eastern horizon still washed in orange, I portage the canoe down to the lake and load my pack in preparation for nearly a league's paddle to an old stand of birch I have seen before.

A bald eagle is perched in a towering white pine as my canoe glides up to a beach on the north shore of the otherwise rock-bound isle. A sample of bark from a likely tree is taken by making a vertical knife cut the width of a hand and peeling the strip of bark around the tree. The sample is thick but brittle, which would make for a leaky canoe, so I continue the search elsewhere.

A short paddle leads me to a sandy shore, piled with driftwood, and to the mouth of a serpentine creek lined with grasses. A beaver dam turns the narrow waterway into a deep pool. The fen surrounding the creek is shaded by

a grove of cedar with entangled roots deeply blanketed in moss. The sample from one of the few large birches is too thin for a canoe, but would make good baskets. A drumming ruffed grouse is audible now and then as I hike back to the canoe.

The sun is on its downward arc as I come to rest in a sandy bay where a weathered trapper’s cabin still stands.

The crowns of tall birch rise above the forest canopy. Just inland is a wetland forested with ash and crisscrossed with grey wolf trails.

Heart-shaped leaves rustle in the breeze in a temple of birch, which like great stone columns seem to uphold the azure sky. The test strip is thick and flexible, perfect for a bark canoe. Before felling the tree, I take a moment to be thankful. A way to show respect for the life of flora or fauna is to make the best use of harvested material possible.

The silence of the sanctuary is broken as my axe pops white chips from the felling cut. Soon the tree starts to lean, and falls to the forest floor with a thundering crash. My knife cuts the length of the tree allowing the outer bark to burst away from the orange cambium, releasing a redolent perfume. The great sheet is rolled lengthwise white-side in and packed out by tumpline, a long moose-hide strap held high across the forehead with the roll of bark cradled against the small of the back.

I arrive back at the cabin to the deepening twilight with a roll of canoe bark.

Tomorrow I will paddle back to split snowshoe frames and a toboggan from its trunk. A craftsman comes full circle after he has transformed the raw materials of nature into a beautiful and useful object. Thanks to a healthy boreal forest, it is still possible to carry on traditions such as the bark canoe.

NORTHERN WILDS JUNE - JULY 2013

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The author is shown in the birch bark canoe he built. He learned some of the secrets of the birch tree from a native elder in Ontario.

The cedar ribs are carefully split (above) and then shaped (below) by hand.

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NORTHERN WILDS JUNE - JULY 2013

By Shawn Perich In the Northern Wilds, we have lots of seasons. There are spring, summer, fall and winter, but they are mostly calendar seasons. We also have fishing season, mud season, deer season, maple sugar season and bug season. The latter is happening right now.

Bug season begins just after the snow melts and lasts until the snow returns.

The season starts with big, slow moving mosquitoes in the spring. Black fly hatches start in the latter half of May, with clouds of the vicious gnats patrolling portages, patios and picnic grounds through June. About the time the black flies let up is when the mos-

quitoes get started in earnest, especially at dawn and dusk, in the shade and after summer rains. Deer flies add their own brand of nastiness to warm summer days, as do the “ankle-biter” flies that bother boaters. In fall, after the other biting insects disappear, the black flies return for one last round.

And then there are ticks. Twenty years ago, ticks were uncommon in the Northern Wilds. Now both the common dog tick and the tiny deer tick are found throughout the region, especially in areas where deer are abundant. With ticks come illnesses, such as Lyme’s Disease, that you most certainly want to avoid.

So how do you beat the bugs and en-

54.5 miles from G.M.

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joy the outdoors? What follows are a few suggestions for minimizing insect annoyance.

Black Flies If you were lost or stranded somewhere in the Northern Wilds in early June, clouds of black flies could drive you mad.

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Not only do they swarm around your head, they land, crawl beneath your clothing and literally chew their way into your hide, leaving an itching, swollen welt. If you have a lot of bites, you may even feel a little under the weather. When black flies are at their worst, it may be nearly impossible to concentrate on outdoor activities. So what can you do?

Your black fly defense strategy should be based on clothing and repellant. Light-colored clothing is less attractive to black flies. The less exposed skin, the better. Leave the sandals, shorts and tank tops at home.

Wear long sleeves, long pants, socks and a hat. Tape or secure cuffs to make it more difficult for black flies to crawl under them. Use 100 percent DEET repellant around cuffs and on all exposed skin. Many people use head nets to keep black flies away from their face and ears. You can also wear clothing impregnated with insect repellants, often called “bug shirts.”

Black flies are not active in the dark.

You can also get away from them by going somewhere the wind is blowing. However, if you are spending a lot of time outdoors in black-fly country, be sure you are prepared to deal with these pests.

Mosquitoes Mosquitoes are ever-present during the summer months, though often they are a minor annoyance. The trick is to develop a tolerance to being around mosquitoes. Instead of swatting at hovering insects and creating a com-

NORTHERN WILDS JUNE - JULY 2013

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Deer flies are annoying and difficult to repel.

on the ground. You can limit your exposure to them by taping your pant cuffs and wearing boots. Repellants containing the natural substance permethrin are effective at repelling ticks. Products are available to treat dogs and cats, too. However, the most effective approach is to strip down and perform a tick search every time you are out where ticks are present. If you suddenly develop flu-like symptoms or aches and pains, go to the doctor and say you may have been bitten by a tick. The sooner tick-borne illnesses are diagnosed, the better your chances of a quick and complete recovery.

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motion, learn to simply brush them off when they land on you. I’ve noticed people who live in the woods are bothered less by bugs than folks who occasionally encounter mosquitoes. Often, those who are bothered most, say they taste better to the bugs.

More likely, they are less tolerant of biting insects and attract attention by batting and swatting at them.

There are times when mosquitoes will overwhelm the most stoic outdoor person. This may occur at sunset, after a rain or when you spend time in a shady place during the day. When it happens, pull out the DEET. In my experience, no repellant compares with 100 percent DEET for warding off swarms of mosquitoes. I only use DEET when I need it and apply it sparingly—a little goes a long way. Spray some DEET in your hand and then apply it to your face, neck, ankles and any exposed skin.

Biting Flies The Northern Wilds has two primary varieties of biting flies: deer flies and “ankle biters.” Neither of them are easy to repel. Unfortunately, both are midsummer, daytime pests which are likely to bother you on days when you’ll be wearing light clothing and have exposed skin. When deer flies are at their worst, you may have to change your plans. Ankle biters mostly bother boaters and mostly bite around your ankles.

They are not deterred by cotton socks. However, protect your ankles and they probably won’t bother you.

Ticks The most dangerous critter in the Northern Wilds is so small you can hardly see it, but it is far more likely to do you harm than a 200-pound black bear. The tiny deer tick carries human illnesses such as Lyme disease, anaplasmosis, babenosis and more. Both ticks and the illnesses they transmit seem to become more numerous every year. The common wood tick, while less likely to transmit disease, also is becoming more common.

Ticks are generally at their worst during spring, but you may encounter them any time there isn’t snow

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Out on the Lake

Charter Captains Take You to the Fish

By Javier Serna Charter boat fishing on Superior is a great way to experience the greatest of lakes, battle some of its biggest fish and bring home something tasty for the dinner table. But what you catch will depend on when and where you decide to embark — and most of the communities along the North Shore have their own fleet of charter boats, manned by some very experienced fishing captains. We talked to a handful of experienced charter boat captains up and down the North Shore for a little bit of insight on what their season is like.

Duluth

Captain Barry LeBlanc, owner of White Water Charters since 1998, is looking forward to the 2013 fishing season. Much of last year’s season was hampered by muddy water after the historic floods clouded the west end of Lake Superior.

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“That wrecked the lake for a month,” LeBlanc said.

“It got too dirty.”

LeBlanc starts out fishing for lake trout first and then Coho salmon around until the middle of June.

Chinook salmon are usually around all season, but are best from the middle of May through July.

“And then it gets good again in September,” he said.

Knife River/Silver Bay

Captain James Latvala is heading into his 38th year of fishing, and 28th as a charter captain. He used to follow the summer salmon migration from Duluth to Grand Marais, but now spends most of the year fishing out of Knife River. Latvala, who charters the 37-foot Rainbows End, does head to Silver Bay for one of the annual tournaments in July.

“I stick around for a few days if I have clients that want to fish there,” said Latvala.

“Silver Bay has a lot of big, big trout.”

He’ll start out looking for lake trout and salmon, trying to stay with water in the mid-40s and low 50s.

“We’re following the water temperatures,” Latvala said.

Charter captain Jim Latvala’s home port is Knife River, but he enjoys fishing at Silver Bay for trophy lake trout. | CONTRIBUTED PHOTO

Early in the season, he runs five to six miles offshore near the Wisconsin border in search lake trout, Coho salmon and Chinook salmon and steelhead trout.

The fish are feeding near the surface then. Steelhead, though, must be returned to the lake unless their adipose fin has been clipped to mark as the hatcheryreared. In late July, August and September, much of the action is juvenile Chinook salmon, lake trout and sometimes pink salmon.

Grand Marais

David Williams, who owns Bear Track Outfitting with his wife Cathi, started a charter fishing operation about nine years ago. His two daughters, Stephanie and Samantha ran the charter business, but he has since taken over as captain. Williams said water temperature is the biggest factor, and while most of the local recreational fishermen will stay close to shore, since they are in smaller boats, he sometimes goes out five to 10 miles offshore.

“The Grand Marais fishery is different than elsewhere, different than even what you’ll find in Tofte and Lutsen,” said Williams, whose fishing trips are half day-excursions.

He also offers scenic cruises, bird watching trips and lunch and dinner rides. Williams noted that his season is a little bit shorter than the season in Duluth. His season will end by the first of October. While he, too, picks up a few steelhead, most of the fishing is lake trout, and Chinook and Coho salmon.

“You do get a few pink salmon, too,” Williams said.

NORTHERN WILDS JUNE - JULY 2013

Thunder Bay

They seldom come inside Thunder Bay.”

Archie Hoogsteen has been fishing Lake Superior for 30 years, and has been a fishing charter captain for six years. He fishes out of a 30-foot Bayliner. While all of the charters mentioned above can take up to six fishermen, Hoogsteen is permitted to take four.

Even with an eye towards salmon, plenty of lake trout are landed.

And unlike Minnesota waters, Hoogsteen’s clients are allowed to keep one steelhead per person.

Hoogsteen raved about the scenic views available inside the bay, which has many islands. June through August is when he finds the best fishing. He’ll fish into September, but then the weather gets a bit dicey and there are fewer customers.

“But most of the season is targeting salmon,” Hoogsteen said, noting that most of the salmon that come aboard his boat are Chinook salmon. “We don’t see a lot of Coho salmon. They are in deeper water.

“If I catch three Chinooks, I probably catch four or five lake trout,” he said. “The lake trout are always there.”

Member FDIC

Give Us Your Best shot Prizes will be awarded by category and include: First Place: $250 in class credits at the North House Folk School in Grand Marais. second Place: Zen hoody provided by Stone Harbor Wilderness Supply Zen Hoody logo sweatshirt. rules: Please email your entries to contest@northernwilds.com. Contestants may enter up to three photos per category. All photo entries must include the following information: 1) Contestant’s name, address, telephone number and email. 2) A short description of the photograph indicating where and when the picture was taken and identification of persons shown in the picture. 3) Contestants agree to allow Northern Wilds Media to publish the photos (with credit) for editorial and publicity purposes.

White Water Charter Fishing, Duluth, Barry LeBlanc, 218-940-3892 Rainbows End, Knife River, James Latvala, 218-834-4270 Bear Track Fishin Chics & Dad, Grand Marais, David Williams, 800-795-8068 Archie’s Fishing Charters, Thunder Bay, Archie Hoogsteen, 807-473-9435

Tofte 218.663.7891 • 877.709.0117

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Categories: PeoPle • Places • animals

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NORTHERN WILDS JUNE - JULY 2013

Whitefish to Northern Light

Accessible Angling Paradise

By Gord Ellis

Thunder Bay Davis Viehbeck shows off a couple of Northern Lights area walleyes. |GORD ELLIS

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tunity. Arrow is deep and clear, but holds some of the largest walleye in the north.

If there is a section This columnist caught his of Northwestern Onpersonal best walleye here, a tario that gets unjustly 34-inch giant that was in the overlooked by an14-15 pound range. Sandglers, it is the corridor stone Lake is deep and clear, from Whitefish Lake but big walleye reside here as to Northern Lights well. Northern Lights also Lake. This piece of land Canadian has truly giant walleye, with can be easily accessed Trails 12-to 13-pounders a distinct by turning off Hwy 61 BY GORD ELLIS opportunity. Its nearly endonto Hwy 593, just after the Pigeon River border crossing, less reefs and rock piles would take and then hanging a left on Hwy 588. a lifetime to explore. Many other Heading west, this entire highway smaller lakes in the area have walleye, corridor is packed with incredible an- including Addie, Icarus, Prelate and gling opportunities. I’d like to break Iron Range. down the opportunities lake by lake, Bass but that would take more words than Rapidly becoming the most popular I’m allotted by my editor. So I’ll go fish in the Northwest, bass are found by species, and focus on some of the in almost every large body of water excellent lake fishing opportunities in in North Lights country. Northern this area.

Lights is maybe the most underrated Walleye bass water body in Ontario, despite It’s not an exaggeration to say that its thriving population. This place is the area from Whitefish to North- top-water city in the summer, with ern Lights Lake has world class wall- 4-pounders banging Chug Bugs and eye fishing opportunity. If you want Skitter Pops like piranha. Arrow, monster fish, they are here. If you like Sandstone, Prelate, Sunbow, Melvin numbers of eaters, look no further. and Icarus are just a few of the other Whitefish Lake is a long, shallow wall- lake that have smallmouth bass. One eye factory that has both size and quan- sleeper for bass is Whitefish Lake. The tity. The Ontario Ministry of Natural fish have gotten into this system, and Resources has intensively studied this are rapidly taking a foothold. Some of lake and found it to be one of the most them are getting very large due to the productive in the north. The average fertility of the water. size of the walleye here is an easy 17 Lake Trout inches, with many larger. Walleye Arrow Lake and Northern Lights over 10 pounds are not uncommon.

Lake are both top-shelf lake trout It is a tremendous open water fishwaters, with the potential for trophy ery but has a first ice bite that’s gang sized fish.

Spring and fall are prime busters. For monsters, both Arrow time for flat lining shallow water Lake and Sandstone Lake, just west of spoons and plugs.

In the summer, wire Whitefish, can offer a trophy oppor-

NORTHERN WILDS JUNE - JULY 2013

lining and downriggers catch the trout. Both lakes provide excellent ice fishing action as well. Other lake trout waters include Icarus, Rose, Atik and Sandstone Lakes.

Brook Trout

The opportunity for brook trout in Northern Lights country is exceptional. There are a large number of put and take stocked lakes brimming with speckled trout. Some of them are found right along the main road, others take a hike or ATV ride to access. South of Whitefish Lake are the famous Lismore and Hartington lakes. These lakes are on the remote side, but are worth the effort. North of Sandstone are the Laurie’s lakes. This chain of brookie lakes is known for good fishing and are all accessible via a short hike or canoe carry. North of Hwy 588, between Whitefish and Sandstone are Head and Little Head lakes. Both are known for nice fish. Towards Arrow Lake (off East Arrow Road) are Birch, McKecknie and Forrest Lakes. All are located just off the road. These are just a few of the stocked brook trout lake options available to the adventurous angler.

There are other things to fish in Northern Lights country, including pike, whitefish, perch and even brown trout. Plan a trip this summer to get acquainted with this amazing area. I guarantee you will fall in love with it.

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36

NORTHERN WILDS JUNE - JULY 2013

Pruning for Production Getting the Most From Your Tomatoes

By Joan Farnam

Determinant varieties, or bush tomatoes, grow to a particular height, and all their fruit ripens at about the same time.

They’re great if you’re going to need a lot of tomatoes to make salsa or tomato paste, for example, or if you want to grow in containers. Typical varieties include most Roma types as well as Early Wonder and other patio plants.

I’m totally committed to pruning my tomato plants this year.

I’ve tried to do it in past years, but was never very successful at it. To be truthful, I found it tedious and boring to remove all those suckers on the stems every week, so I gave up, and the suckers grew into stems and the stems grew more suckers that grew into more stems until the tomato plants outgrew their cages completely, crashed to the ground and hid their fruit under what seemed like tons of leaves.

the Accidental

Gardener

BY JOAN FARNAM

Never again.

That’s easy to say, of course, especially at the beginning of the season, but I think I’ll take some advice from one of the master tomato growers on the North Shore – Jan Horak – and see if that helps.

Horak grew up in a family with a large garden, and it was his job to prune the tomatoes.

“When I was in third grade, I had to pull the suckers before I could go to swimming lessons,” he said.

That training must have taught him patience and a certain affection for the job. These days, Horak grows about 80 tomato plants in his greenhouse close to Lake Superior and has superlative results. The key? Staking the plants and keeping those suckers under control.

“I like to take my cup of coffee in the morning and go out to the greenhouse,” he said. “It’s nice to talk to your tomatoes in the morning. They’re always so friendly.”

There are some basic facts to know about tomato plants before you start.

Tomatoes come in two types: determinate and indeterminate.

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In general, pruning is not advised, except on the lower branches, said Diane Booth, Cook County Extension agent.

“You want to get good air circulation,” she said. She might prune some laterals on a determinate plant, but not many. Pruning will significantly reduce the harvest on determinate plants.

Indeterminate varieties, or vining tomatoes, on the other hand, just keep on growing.

Typical varieties include Early Girl and Better Boy, and most heirlooms, as well as Jan Horak’s favorite, San Marzano. You get an extended harvest over a much longer period of time with indeterminate varieties, but if you want larger, earlier and more fruit, they need to be tended.

They require staking or caging as well as continuous pruning in order to have a good harvest. This keeps the energy of the plant going to fruit production rather than to foliage.

There are varying opinions about how to do this (of course), but generally gardeners let from one to three stems grow as the main stem of the plant.

After the young transplants are put into the ground and staked or caged, the tomatoes will only have one stem. Let a second or third stem grow.

Booth said pruning is almost an art -- you have to be watching how the plant is growing to decide what to

Homegrown tomatoes come in all sizes and colors. | JOAN FARNAM

prune and what to leave.

In general, you want a healthy, vigorous plant with enough foliage to create plenty of energy for the fruit as well as provide some shade for them. All suckers should be removed below the first flower cluster, however, as well as removed from stems and branches during the growing season. About a month before the expected first fall frost, nip off the growing tips of the plant to force the remaining tomatoes to ripen.

Indeterminate tomatoes can grow to more than 10 feet tall, as Dave Steckelberg discovered last year when his tomatoes began poking through openings in the roof of his small greenhouse. The plants were awesome, but probably didn’t produce as much as they should have. He attended a tomato pruning demonstration last fall and decided he’d try it this year.

“I’m just going to try and see if less foliage will bear more and better fruit, although I love the tomatoes and the foliage,” he said, laughing. “But you don’t need an 8-foot plant that shoots through the ceiling.

Somewhere there’s a magical mystery line -- the happy medium. That’s what I’m going for this year -- the happy medium.”

Me, too.

May all of us enjoy an abundant crop this year.

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37

Grand Marais gardener Dave Steckelberg peers out of his small greenhouse, which was taken over by his tomato plants last year. | Joan Farnam

STOP INVASIVE SPECIES IN YOUR TRACKS Give Invasive Species The Brush Off

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Learn About: • The importance of a forest management plan • How to choose a professional logger • What makes a

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Visit www.mlep.org or contact us today to receive additional information, a free Landowner’s Manual and resource directory.

Help Prevent The Spread Of Invasive Plants And Animals.

• Arrive with clean gear.

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Minnesota Master Logger Certification MLEP’s Minnesota Master Logger Certification program provides added confidence to customers and the public that the person performing a harvest has the education and experience to do the job correctly. It is an independent, third-party audit of a logging business’s harvest, safety and business practices.

For additional information or to receive a free directory and Minnesota Logger Education Program • 301 W 1st Street; Suite 510 • Duluth, MN 55802 landowner information manual, contact our office or visit us (218) 722-5442 • fax: 218-722-5196 www.mlep.org on the•web at: www.mlep.org Minnesota Logger Education Program 301 West First Street • Suite 510

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NORTHERN WILDS JUNE - JULY 2013

DINING GUIDE GRAND MARAIS M N

Specialty Coffee, Soups, Sandwiches, Ice Cream

Blue Water Cafe

“The Meeting Place in Grand Marais”

Breakfast • lunCh • Dinner ChilDren’s Menus • “Broasted Chicken” • Dine in or Take Out • Open Daily • Fish Fry on Fridays

Individual, groups and family dining.

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Sandwiches Fish & Chips Smoked Fish Chowders M A R K E T Herring Caviar Gifts

South of the Border C · a · f · e

Breakfast Served All Day Lunch • Homemade Soups

We’re Open Before the Fish Bite!

Open 5 am - 2 pm Everyday!

Located at the stop light in Grand Marais 218-387-1505

Naniboujou Lodge and Restaurant

Sun-Thurs: 11am - 8pm Fri & Sat: 11am - 9pm

CASCADE RESTAURANT&PUB

3719 W. Hwy 61 (218) 387-2911

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Homemade, handcrafted breakfast, lunch and dinner, open year round.

Join us for Happy Hour, 3-6pm!

GUNFLINT TRAIL Trail CenTer lodge Year Round Lodging Eats & Saloon • 24 hr Gas 111 Wisconsin Street Grand Marais, Minnesota www.GunFlintTavern.com

218-387-1563 MENU

- Eclectic & Ethnic Menu, Many Vegetarian Choices • Craftmade Soups • Organic Product Used Widely

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SPIRITS

- Over 40 Micro Brews • 16 Micros on Draft • Fine Wines • Fine Spirits Available from the “Raven”

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TWO HARBORS

DINING GUIDE

LUTSEN

Vanilla Bean Café Serving up great breakfast, lunch & dinner since 1998

thing!”

“We’ll be back - we LOVED every

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KAKABEKA FALLS-CANADA – 30 K FROM THUNDER BAY – Cascades Restaurant

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Steak, Seafood, BBQ Ribs and more!!

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Metropolitan Moose Beanery & Cafe

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Lakeside Lodging & Restaurant

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Dining Room serving breakfast, lunch and dinner. Pub Opens at 4:00 pm TWO HARBORS’ ORIGINAL IRISH PUB!

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40

NORTHERN WILDS JUNE - JULY 2013

Insect Shield Clothing

Ticks are turned away by clothing treated repellants such as permethrin. Insect Shield uses a proprietary process to treat clothing that will last through 70 launderings. We’ve successfully tried Insect Shield hats, neckerchiefs and shirts on black flies and mosquitoes. However, the clothing does not repel flying insects from exposed skin. For ticks, wearing Insect Shield clothing is good insurance, especially for socks and pants to discourage ticks from crawling on you. Learn more at www.insectshield.com.— Shawn Perich

Deerland

AMERICA’S HUNT FOR THE ECOLOGICAL BALANCE AND THE ESSENCE OF WILDNESS

By Al Cambrone Lyons Press, 2013, $18.95

Any book about deer with chapter headings like Darwin’s Deer, Inside America’s Deer-Industrial Complex and The Deadliest Animal in North America, deserves to be read. Northwestern Wisconsin author Al Cambrone has delved into the white-tailed deer phenomenon in the United States, where the animal permeates everything from suburban backyards to the nation’s hunting culture. The flip side is deer do enormous damage to ecosystems, crops and gardens, and are a leading cause of vehicle accidents. Cambrone provides an insightful look at deer in America today.—Shawn Perich

Agates of Lake Superior

By Dan R. Lynch

ADVENTURE PUBLICATIONS, $19.95

This glossy, 224-page paperback includes lots of color photos of various types of Lake Superior agates. So it would be welcome on the coffee table of any casual rock picker, especially those interested in Minnesota’s state gemstone. But it also has enough detailed information to make it a fine reference for serious agate hounds.

The book describes each type of agate and what makes them unique. It includes a history on how they were formed on Lake Superior. It also includes tips on finding and identifying them, and how collectible they may be.

— Javier Serna

REVIEWS

Thermacell Outdoor Lantern

Clear away mosquitoes and other flying pests from a patio, deck or campsite with a Thermacell Outdoor Lantern. A butane cartridge in the lantern heats a metal grill. A small mat placed on the grill is saturated with the repellant allethrin, which vaporizes from the heat and is released into the air. The lantern received thumbs up from Northern Wilds staff that used them to turn away hungry North Shore mosquitoes. Four AA batteries power eight LED lights, providing ample illumination. The lantern may be used to repel mosquitoes with or without the light on.

MSRP $29.95. For more information, go to www.thermacell.com.—Shawn Perich

Hi-Fi Speaker System

of sm ally peop exten of th mal tiona spru cal A creat mou patte prov

For those that can’t live without music, even in the Northern Wilds, Eagles Nest Outfitters has come up with an inexpensive Su speaker system tally that weighs only steel 22 ounces.

It the pumps out a deRoy cent amount of fairly good-sounding volume considering it runs on only ally r a pair of AA batteries — but not enough to bother your Woo neighbors. It plugs directly into the headphone jack on Fir your MP3 player, which can slide into a mesh pouch on Bay a the innards of the device, keeping it safe. It retails for a rec $19.95. www.eaglesnestoutfittersinc.com — Javier Serna peop

The Lure of the North Woods

CULTIVATING TOURISM IN THE UPPER MIDWEST

By Aaron Shapiro University of Minnesota Press, 2013, $24.95

For over a century, businesses and government agencies have catered to the tourists who are drawn to the North Woods for recreation and relaxation. The Lure of the North Woods chronicles the history of tourism in the northern portions of Minnesota, Wisconsin and Michigan. It is a story of people who had the vision and perseverance to pioneer the hospitality industry in remote places, as well as the government policies that helped or hindered the industry’s growth, such as the formation of the Boundary Waters Canoe Area.—Shawn Perich

Minnesota Bug Hunt

By Bruce Giebink Photographs by Bill Johnson

Minnesota Historical Society Press, 2013, $16.95

This children’s book will fascinate adults, too. Excellent insect photography coupled with fun facts about bugs makes a book that is entertaining and informative. Giebink categorizes the insects by habitats, and the featured insects range from common to unusual. Bill Johnson’s macro photography gives us a “bug’s eye” view of exquisite insects.

—Shawn Perich

conc for n

NORTHERN WILDS JUNE - JULY 2013 » continued from page 20

Books, Cards, and Journals

of smaller landscapes,’’ and one of the most visually beautiful is the celebration of First Nations people on Spirit Garden, a peninsula of land that extends into Lake Superior. Located at the centre of the garden is the Gathering Circle, an informal open-air amphitheatre built using the traditional Aboriginal bentwood technique. Young spruce trees were harvested in the spring by a local Aboriginal craftsman, then bent and lashed to create twenty arches in a semi-enclosed shroud, mounted in a circular pattern and layered with a pattern over curved cedar strips. Large ash logs provide seating for the Circle.

Surrounding the Circle’s concrete base are digitally-transferred Aboriginal artwork on nine large steel panels, eight by artist Randy Thomas and the ninth panel, “Lifegivers,” by his late father Roy Thomas, a world-famous artist internationally recognized for his skill and distinctive style of Woodland Art.

41

by local artists and authors LIFE LOVE & NEGOT

Paddling to Winter IATION ON THE VOYAG

EUR’S HIGHWAY

JULIE BUCKLES

The famous Sleeping Giant provides a scenic backdrop to the marina.

First Nations peoples have inhabited the Thunder Bay area for more than 9,000 years, and the Gathering Circle is a recognition of those deep historic roots that link Aboriginal people to Lake Superior. It also is a reflection of the Aboriginal concept of inclusion, peaceful co-existence and respect for nature.

Coming soon to Prince Arthur’s Landing is a 150-room, 4-star Delta Hotel (scheduled to open in early 2014), two 51-unit seven-story condominiums, a commercial building for shops and restaurants, and redevelopment of the historic Canadian Northern Station.

and the BW Calendar

By Deane Morrison UNIVERSITY OF MINNESOTA STARWATCH June - July 2013

June starts out with Saturn low in the south and east of Spica, the brightest star in Virgo. By the end of July, both will have moved well to the southwest.

then the hourglass form of Hercules. Far to the south, S-shaped Scorpius, with its red heart, Antares, and the Teapot of Sagittarius graze the horizon.

The other planets all hug the sun this summer.

Mercury reaches its highest point above Venus in the sun’s afterglow during the second week of June, and Mars and Jupiter make a close pair above the predawn horizon on July 22.

The summer solstice arrives at four minutes after midnight June 21, when the sun appears to pause above the Tropic of Cancer. At that moment Earth will be lighted from the Antarctic Circle to the North Pole and beyond it to the Arctic Circle on the night side of the planet.

High in the south, kiteshaped Bootes, the herdsman, sails westward, anchored by brilliant Arcturus. Moving east, we see the lovely semicircle of Corona Borealis, the northern crown, and

This summer’s biggest event happens in the early morning of June 23, when the moon reaches fullness almost at the moment of peri-

gee (its closest approach to Earth in a cycle) and we get an especially close and bright full moon. Its diameter will be about 14 percent bigger than if it were at a typical apogee (the most distant point in its cycle), and its disk about 30 percent brighter. It reaches perigee at 6 a.m. and fullness barely a half hour later.

Unfortunately, the moon sets at 5:32 a.m. (23 minutes after sunrise) in Ely that

morning. So to see this big, luminous moon, you’ll have to get up early. Or look the night before, when it won’t be full, but it’ll still be beautiful. And so will be the full moon the night of July 2223.

The University of Minnesota offers public viewings of the night sky at its Duluth campus. For more information and viewing schedules, see Duluth, Marshall W. Alworth Planetarium: www.d.umn.edu/planet

All Minnesota Made!

P.O. Box 188, Ely, MN 55731 218-365-3375

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NORTHERN WILDS JUNE - JULY 2013

Linking Ley Lines and Earth’s Energy with Ancient Sites in Northern Wilds Are there powerful earth energy points – like in Sedona, Ariz. – right here in our Northern Wilds areas? Did the ancient peoples in Minnesota, Ontario and nearby areas have the knowledge of how to find those energy lines and use them to place their stone circles, burial mounds and sacred sites? And what are the ley lines that some researchers theorize can connect these sites?

Strange Tales

Some researchers see the ley lines as electromagnetic energy paths between powerful points on earth, which connect into a greater earth grid. Could this be a tie-in with the Gaia hypothesis that the whole planet is a living entity? Are these energy lines are part of the planet’s pulsating energy?

BY ELLE ANDRA-WARNER

My curiosity in the subject came about after a dinner conversation last fall about a man who had identified two powerful energy places in Northwestern Ontario.

According to the story, so strong was the man’s belief that he had packed all his belongings in a van and set off to establish his new home in either Dorion (near Nipigon) or Silver Mountain (north of Pigeon River US-Canada border). Unfortunately, no one knew where he ended up.

Ley lines is the term given to alleged alignments that have been found to link prehistoric mounds, stones, sacred sites, temples/churches, and geographical features. Along this grid of straight ley lines can be found burial mounds, effigies, stone structures (standing stones, circles, pyramids, dolmans, Stonehenge, etc.) and megaliths, as well as geographical landmarks such as rivers, waterfalls, ridges and mountains. Ley lines can run for hundreds of miles.

While the concept of ancient sites along straight alignments was discussed by European researchers back as far as the 1700s, the term “ley line” is credited to England’s Albert Watkins when he used the phrase in seeking and identifying straight lines to ancient sites. He and others became ‘’ley hunters,” travelling and aligning the ancient sites of England and Europe.

Later, others tied the lines to energy paths used in the ancient Chinese system of Feng Shui.

Bringing the subject back to our own Northern Wilds, could the ley lines and energy lines apply to our prehistoric mounds, stone structures and landmarks? Were the ancient peoples of America aware of ‘’spirit of place’’ and had the knowledge, now lost, of finding energy lines?

Near the town of Luverne, Minnesota is the Blue Mound State Park with its large quartzite cliffs. At the south end of the park, there is a mysterious perfect line of stones that stretch 1,250 feet in an east-west direction. On the first day

of spring and the first day of fall – the two equinoxes – the sunrises and sunsets are lined up perfectly with this stone alignment. A few years ago during a dig at Fort Ridgely State Park, archaeologists from Minnesota Department of Natural Resources discovered an intact, five-foot diameter stone circle, some stones the size of a volleyball, dating back perhaps 2,200 to 7,500 years ago.

Who built it and why is still a mystery.

Stone circles found in Wisconsin’s Medicine Wheel complex are aligned with effigy mounds (animal-shaped earth mounds) located miles away. In Manitoba, a large, nine-acre site exists in the Whiteshell Provincial Park that may be North America’s largest, intact petroform site. It includes human-made boulder outlines, effigies, large carved boulders, stone circles, medicine wheels and rock art. Medicine wheels and petroforms are also found in Manitoba’s Turtle Mountain Provincial Park.

Our northern wilds area is also home to two of the world’s rare intaglios mounds (animals carved into the ground below natural terrain) – the Turtle Oracle Mound built by Sioux in the 1700s northwest of town of Deer River, and the 33-foot long Sioux Wild White Dog north of Kakabeka Falls, on a bluff overlooking the Kaministiquia River and Little Dog Lake.

In both northern Minnesota and northwestern Ontario, there’s the vast network of ancient burial mounds dating back 2000 years, along the Rainy River west of International Falls (all

Does this ancient rock formation mark a mysterious Ley Line? | MN DNR PHOTO

now registered historic sites in both countries). On Minnesota side of the river is the Grand Mound, the largest burial mound in the upper U.S. Midwest at 325 feet around and 25 feet high, and the McKinstry Mounds (aka Pelland Mounds). Just across the river on the Canadian north side are the 20-25 sacred Manitou Mounds at the Kay-Nay-Chi-Wah-Nung National Historic Site.

Can the sites in northern wilds be linked by ley lines? Are they built along energy lines with power points? Could ley hunters connect our sites on earth grids with other world ancient sites?

Author Devereaux has written, ‘’...ley hunting is still a young study, held back by prejudice on the part of orthodox archaeologists....ancient people did lay dead straight lines that went over hill and gully for miles, as if the physical obstacles were not there.”

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11,000 gph Water Pump only 3.6 amps! 2 year warranty!

Just $399.95. www.fishpondaerators.com 608-254-2735

Explore area history with a trip to the Ely-Winton Historical Society Museum. Located at Vermillion College, 1900 East Camp Street, Ely. Open Tues.-Fri. 12 noon - 4 p.m.

Lake Superior and inland charters. Halsnoy Fish Company in Tofte. WWW.halsnoyfishcompany Licensed Captain

OUTFITTERS

BEAR TRACK’S FISHIN’ CHICS Lake Superior ½ day Fishing Charters for Trout and Salmon aboard 27’ boat with the Williams. Shore cruises, Bird tours, lunch and dinner cruises. Inland fly-fishing & spin-cast guides, Fly-fishing clinics. outfitters@bear-track.com www.bear-track.com Toll-free 1-800-795-8068

Joe's Inland Guide Service NOT Lake Superior. Fishing lakes close to GRAND MARAIS. I was born and raised here.

CHILDREN are FREE. I supply everything to fish. 218-3872483 www.boreal.org/gofish

LAND OWNERS

BEAR TRACK OUTFITTING CO. & BALLY CREEK CABINS 41st year in business offering full-service outfitting for BWCAW canoe & sea kayak trips, backpacking Isle Royale, Year ‘round rustic cabins, retail gift & camping supplies.

Guided Day Trips. Lake Superior Charters. outfitters@beartrack.com www.bear-track.com 1-800-795-8068

Roger Campbell Gunflint Trail Fishing Guide with a Reputation “I’ve been fishing for a living for 35 years – must be doing something right, haven’t starved yet.”

218-388-0628 sochep123@gmail.com

For information about placing your classified ad, contact Amber at apratt@northernwilds.com

NORTHERN WILDS JUNE - JULY 2013

Towering Pines Canopy Tour

Towering Pines Canopy Tour at Gunflint Lodge is the most exciting new way to experience the wilderness — get a bird’s-eye view plus a thrilling ride through the treetops! It’s a two-and-a-half hour nature adventure led by two sky guides.

Open daily April 26th to November 11th. $79.00 per person Call 218-388-2296 for reservations.

Breakfast, lunch and dinner available, too.

Gunflint Lodge is 43 miles up the Gunflint Trail from Grand Marais.

Minimum age is 10; maximum weight/person is 240 lbs.

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NORTHERN WILDS JUNE - JULY 2013

Unspoiled and Unforgettable

W

elcome to Golden Eagle Lodge, a family oriented, year round resort located on the historic Gunflint Trail of Northeastern Minnesota. We are on the north shores of Flour Lake surrounded by the Superior National Forest; as we are the only residents on the lake, you can look forward to the quiet and solitude offered only from the true wilderness setting. We offer modern, housekeeping cabins to ensure comfort during your stay in the North Woods.

Each season has something special to offer; excellent fishing and canoeing in Summer and nationallyrenowned Nordic Cross-Country Skiing in Winter.

Our 4 Seasons page will describe in detail how each season can help shape your vacation.

Try our 9-site campground which offers a quiet and personal service; each site comes equipped with water and electric hookups. We go out of our way to ensure every aspect of your visit will convince you to come back and see us again.

We know much time, effort, and expense is invested in a vacation, and we would be honored if you considered us as your vacation destination.

You won’t be disappointed!

“Quiet...Spectacular...Solitude, you’ll find it here in any season.”

800-346-2203 • 218-388-2203 · www.Golden-Eagle.com www.GunflintCamping.com · www.FlourLake.com www.GunflintCanoeing.com