Northern Wilds

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Aug - Sept 2011 VOL 8, ISSUE 4 Explore Your Wild Side!

BWCA’s

• Duluth’s Epic Singletrack Dulu g • Fresh & Local Food Guide • Powwow 101 • Isle Royale Invasion

SPECIAL SECTION

Fall Colors

Safari

FREE

Northern Wilds is also available by subscription. See page 3 for details.

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NORTHERN WILDS August - September 2011

Good For You. Good For Our Forests.® Your family values their traditions. We can show you how to manage your forest property to improve wildlife habitat and sustain your traditions. The Sustainable Forestry Initiative® (SFI) Program can help you better manage your forest property with this free publication: Sustainable Forestry—A Landowner’s Manual www.mns.org/manual.htm

Contact us at 218-722-5013 for your free copy, or write to: MN SFI Implementation Committee 903 Medical Arts Building 324 West Superior Street Duluth, MN 55802 The SFI® Program promotes forest stewardship integrating reforestation, nurturing, and harvesting trees for useful products with conservation of soil, air, and water resources, sh and wildlife habitat, and forest aesthetics.

NORTHERN WILDS August - September 2011

from the editors

Features

9 10 11 13 14 15 20 21 22 23 23

Making the Most of an Unusual Summer

Powwow 101 “Don’t call it a costume”

Have Kids, Will Hike 6 treks to take with little ones

Logging Camp Cuisine Homemade soup with a side of history.

Backroads Thunder Bay Thrills for every level of daredevil

Wet and Wild Trails Lake Superior up close and personal

Fall Colors Safari Wolves and black bears and moose, oh my

Singletrack Paradise Duluth’s epic plan

Locally Grown Where to find the good stuff

Women Gone Wild in the BWCA “Now we can bring vodka in our Nalgenes”

Dyeing for Color Playing witch with backyard plants

Catching the King Chinook salmon: “locomotives with fins”

About Our Cover

The Superior Hiking Trail offers dozens of potential day and overnight trips perfect for savoring peak color season in the Northern Wilds. | PAUL SUNDBERG

5 7 31 24 18 27 30 29 29 26 12 28

North Notes Calendar & Events Campfire Stories Canadian Trails Through My Lens The Accidental Gardener Strange Tales Book Reviews Northern Sky Product Reviews Waterfalls Classifieds

Summer on Minnesota’s North Shore is best described as “unusual” this year. Beginning July 1, the state government shut down because the Governor and Legislature could not agree on a budget. Our state parks and waysides were closed and barricaded, anglers weren’t been able to buy fishing licenses and highway construction was halted. Here at Northern Wilds, about all we can say to our readers is, “Sorry for the inconvenience” and “Don’t blame us.” We hope the State of Minnesota will be open by the time you read this. But regardless of the shutdown, you can fi nd fun in Minnesota and Ontario. In fact, we’ve even heard some intrepid travelers crossed the border into Ontario because the parks and campgrounds are open. If you join them, be sure to read Elle Andra-Warner’s story about exploring the backroads of Thunder Bay, including Chippewa Park’s wooden horse carousel. Hiking, biking and paddling trails are open everywhere. Eric Chandler provides a roundup of North Shore trails suitable for hiking with kids and, in another story, gives us the lowdown on Duluth’s network of singletrack mountain bike trails. Lucas Will, who has paddled around Lake Superior, tells us about his favorite spots along the way. Kate Watson met a group of women whose Boundary Waters adventures proudly include an evening cocktail hour.

PUBLISHERS Shawn Perich & Amber Pratt EDITORS Shawn Perich, Editor Shelby Gonzalez, Managing Editor editor@northernwilds.com shelby@northernwilds.com OFFICE Dominique Holz GRAPHIC DESIGN Breanna Super billing@northernwildsmedia.com breanna@northernwilds.com

ADVERTISING Amber Pratt, Advertising Manager, apratt@northernwilds.com Join us on Calie Vannet, Advertising Rep., calie@northernwilds.com Facebook CONTRIBUTORS Elle Andra-Warner, Kevin Bovee, Eric Chandler, Gord Ellis, Joan Farnam, Michael Furtman, Mike Hillman, Anna Martineau-Merritt, Cora McGlauflin, Deane Morrison, Travis Novitsky, Amber Pratt, Paul Sundberg, Tasha Sutton, Eve and Gary Wallinga, Kate Watson, Lucas Will Copyright 2011 by Northern Wilds Media, Inc. Published six times per year. Subscription rate is $15 per year or $28 for 2 years. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part requires written permission from the publisher.

August is also when the North Shore’s native people gather for powwows at Grand Portage and Old Fort William. Anna Martineau-Merritt explains how you can participate in a powwow and experience native culture. Kevin Bovee learned about our logging heritage and had a great lunch at the historic Tom’s Logging Camp. Shelby Gonzalez learned about natural dyes at the North House Folk School in Grand Marais. Be sure to check out her fall color safari, too. Out in the woods, Gord Ellis takes us bear hunting without using bait to attract the bruins. Mike Furtman explains why blue birds aren’t really blue. Gardener Joan Farnam talks about harvesting your backyard bounty and what to do with it when you do. If you don’t garden, Joan also has an excellent roundup of farmer’s markets and other places where you can purchase locally grown produce. In fact, you could say this issue of Northern Wilds is good enough to eat. –Shawn Perich and Amber Pratt

Got Photos? We’d love to see shots of you and your family out and about in the Northern Wilds. Send to editor@northernwilds.com.

www.NorthernWilds.com

Copyright 2011 All rights reserved Advertising rates and publishing schedules are available.

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NORTHERN WILDS August - September 2011

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NORTHERN WILDS August - September 2011

Boaters Beware

NORTH NOTES Scouts Build North Shore Trails Got trails? In late June, Boy Scouts and adult Scouters from the Boy Scouts of America’s honor society—called the Order of the Arrow—traveled to Grand Marais to build new trails and improve existing ones in different areas of the North Shore. Eight separate crews constructed new mountain biking trails at Pincushion Mountain near Grand Marais and Sugarbush near Tofte, and improved sections of the Superior Hiking Trail. The effort, a partnership with the Forest Service, was called “ArrowPower 2011: Service on the Superior.” The Superior Hiking Trail Association, Superior Cycling Association, Conservation Corps of Minnesota and Iowa, and International Mountain Biking Association provided additional support and coordination. Scouts and leaders were based at Cook County High School and spent 8 hours a day out working on the trails. In the evenings, they toured the area and participated in educational and recreational events at the high school. For more information about the Boy Scouts, see www.scouting.org. For more information about the Superior National Forest, see: www.fs.usda.gov/superior.

Duck, Duck, More Ducks! This one’s for the birds. Improved conditions in much of the waterfowl breeding habitat in Canada and the prairies of the north-central United States have contributed to higher populations of many species of ducks, including a record abundance of blue-winged teal, according to breeding population estimates released by the US Fish and Wildlife Service. The preliminary estimate of the total duck population from the traditional survey area (north-central United States, south-central and northern Canada, and Alaska) was 45.6 million birds. This estimate represents an 11 percent increase over last year’s estimate of 40.8 million birds and is 35 percent above the long-term average.

Managing editor Shelby Gonzalez strikes a pose after her successful ascent of Wiese’s Spire, an obscure backcountry climb near Ely’s Peak. | CORA MCGLAUFLIN

Other highlights include: •

Estimated mallard abundance was 9.2 million birds, a 9 percent increase from the 2010 estimate.

•

Blue-winged teal estimated population was a record 8.9 million, which was 41 percent above the 2010 estimate of 6.3 million, and 91 percent above the long-term average.

•

The northern pintail estimate of 4.4 million was 26 percent above the 2010 estimate of 3.5 million. Estimated abundance of American wigeon was 14 percent below the 2010 estimate and 20 percent below the long-term average.

Most recreational boats in the US are “trailer” boats. Stored in the backyard or driveway, they are trailered to the water and enjoyed for the day. They are also refueled at your local gas station or minimart, which may soon offer a fuel, E15 (or 15 percent ethanol), that Uh, which one goes in the boat? Confusing gas pump signage is prohibited by the fed- illustrates the challenge boaters face when fueling up. eral government for use in | BOATUS boat motors and violates When a boat’s engine stops running, you engine manufacturer warranties. That can’t pull over to the side of the road.” has the nation’s largest recreational boat owners group, BoatUS, concerned over Earlier this year, the EPA authorized the the potential for accidental misfueling. use of E15 in 2001 model year and newer motor vehicles. However, the agency did “As this new fuel starts appearing at the not authorize its use in marine engines or local fuel pump, we see the real likeli- off-road vehicles, tools and equipment. hood of putting the wrong fuel in your “I encourage anyone fueling – whether boat,” said Margaret Podlich, BoatUS vice president of government affairs. “It it’s for your boat, car, motorcycle, genercould lead to costly engine or fuel system ator or six-gallon portable tank for your damage, and potentially leave you strand- lawnmower or leaf-blower, to absolutely ed out on the water with a disabled ves- know what type of gas is going into that sel, compromising your family’s safety. tank,” she said.

PLAN YOUR BEST WINTER EVER

While snow may not be on your mind just yet as you savor the last of summer and the brightness of autumn, it’s never too early to get psyched for winter. You can’t beat the Northern Wilds for a wintertime getaway. For a full list of events, visit www.northernwilds.com Craving nature and peace? Snowshoe by candlelight, ski on the continent’s largest groomed cross-country ski trail system, drill an ice-fishing hole, or simply snuggle up to a crackling fireplace. Longing for family togetherness? Go ice skating, take a sleigh ride, or board the Polar Express.

Prefer a steady stream of adrenaline to keep you warm? Ski or snowboard for a fraction of the cost of an out-West vacation, try ice climbing or snowkiting, or put Fido to work with skijoring or dogsledding excursions.

Midwest Mountaineering Outdoor Adventure Expo

Minneapolis • Nov. 18-20 www.outdooradventureexpo.com

Winterers Gathering X and Arctic Film Festival

North House Folk School Grand Marais • Nov. 17-20 www.northhouse.org

Bentleyville “Tour of Lights” Duluth • Nov. 19-Dec. 26 www.bentleyvilleusa.org

AMSOIL Duluth National SnoCross

Spirit Mountain, Duluth • Nov. 25-27 www.visitduluth.com

Winter Plein Air Painting Festival Gunflint Trail • Date TBA www.grandmaraisartcolony.org

Snow Kiting Expo Duluth • Date TBA www.d.umn.edu

Lutsen Mountains Family Festival Lutsen Mountains • Date TBA www.lutsen.com

Two Harbors Winter Frolic

Two Harbors • Feb. 10-11 www.twoharborswinterfrolic.com

Mukluk Ball Benefit

Volks Ski 400

Fortune Bay Resort Casino, Ely • Date TBA www.fortunebay.com

John Beargrease Sled Dog Marathon

Bayfront Festival Park, Duluth • TBD www.visitduluth.com

Ely Winter Festival

Duluth • Date TBA www.outdooredventures.org

Cook County • Date TBA www.volksski.com Duluth-Grand Marais • Date TBA www.beargrease.com Ely • Feb. 2-12 www.elywinterfestival.com

Warmer By the Lake Festival Mush for Kids

Voyageur Winter Carnival

Fort William Historical Park Thunder Bay • Date TBA www.fwhp.ca

Mountain Mardi Gras

Spirit Mountain, Duluth • Date TBA www.spiritmt.com

Central Canada Outdoor Show Thunder Bay • Feb. 24-26 www.tb-chamber.on.ca

Winter Tracks Festival

North Shore and Gunflint Trail • Date TBA www.cookcountymnevents.com

Mush for a Cure

Grand Marais • Date TBA www.mushforacure.com

Sleeping Giant Loppet

Sleeping Giant Provincial Park, Thunder Bay • March 3 www.sleepinggiantloppet.ca

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NORTHERN WILDS August - September 2011

Forests Give Clean Air, Cash Minnesota’s forestry-related business sectors contribute $17.1 billion annually to the state’s economy and provide 86,775 jobs, according to a new DNR report. Minnesota’s native forests, plantation forests, community forests and urban trees not only help maintain a healthy environment, provide clean water and enhance our quality of life, they are also a cornerstone of the state’s economy.

V

VACATION IN EVERY SEASON at our wooded shoreline resort on Lake Superior. Cabins are one and two bedrooms with full kitchens; totally new with gas ďƒžreplaces or beautifully renovated. 1.5 miles to Knife River Marina, 15 miles to Duluth. Non-toxic cleaning. No smoking and no pets.

STONEGATE on SUPERIOR

About 40 percent of the forest products manufactured in Minnesota are used locally; the rest are shipped to other states and countries. Minnesota annually exports $707 million worth of pulp, paper and paperboard prod-

Whispering Pines Motel

The report is a collaborative effort between the University of MinnesotaDuluth’s Bureau of Business and Economic Research and the DNR Division of Forestry. More information at www.dnr.state.mn.us/forestry/ um/index.html.

Make a Masterpiece If you’ve ever dreamed of celebrating the beauty of the Great Lakes and having your creativity immortalized on a beer coaster (who hasn’t?), here’s your chance. Biodiversity Project’s Great Lakes Forever program has again partnered with Budweiser to sponsor the 7th annual photography and art contest that celebrates the beauty of the Great Lakes through the talent of local photographers and artists. Great Lakes Forever is a nonproďŹ t

(218) 355-1923

ucts to other countries, with China and Canada as the biggest customers. Minnesota’s forest landowners annually receive about $80 million in timber revenue. Timber harvested from DNR-administered land generates $1.3 billion industry output on a yearly basis and supports 5,050 jobs through primary forest products manufacturing.

education and activism campaign designed to raise awareness about the vulnerability and value of the Great Lakes. The grand prize winner in both the photography and art categories will be featured on the 2011 Great Lakes Forever/Budweiser beer coasters. These coasters will be distributed to bars and restaurants throughout the Great Lakes region. Over 120,000 coasters were distributed last year. In addition to being featured on

Better Map for Eagle Mountain

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Until recently, hikers wanting to scale Eagle Mountain to reach Minnesota’s highest point have had to rely on two canoeing maps. “Each spring I would take the two maps covering the trails and cut away two-thirds of it with a scissors,� says Martin Kubik, founder and president of the Boundary Waters Advisory (BWA) Committee. “I then would tape the remaining pieces together to make it easier to take in and out of my pocket.�

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Such a crafts project is no longer necessary. The BWA Committee and McKenzie Products have unveiled a new hiking map for the Eagle Mountain Trail in the Boundary Waters Canoe Area and Brule Lake Trail. Measuring 12 by 15 inches, it retains the map scale that BWCAW canoists are familiar with. It is printed on a waterproof, tear-resistant synthetic paper. The map includes a new campsite on Fishook Lake, the result of a two-year collaborative effort between the Local for Less Forest Service and the BWA Committee.

SUMMER SPECIAL

COUPON

Golf 9 holes + cart $20 18 holes + cart $30

Present this coupon for up to 4 players. Five Minutes from Downtown Grand Marais

218-387-9988

The “Eagle Mountain/Brule Lake Map� can be purchased from McKenzie Products, info@ bwcamaps.com, or by calling 1-800-749-2113. The map is also available at the Lake Superior Trading Post in Grand Marais. For more information about volunteer trail clearing trips, visit www.bwac.smugmug.com or contact Martin Kubik at bwca.trails@yahoo.com.

A backpacker contemplates the economic value of the Caribou River area of the Superior Hiking Trail. | SHELBY GONZALEZ

the 2011 beer coasters, the top three vote-getters in each category will also receive Budweiser prizes. The entry deadline is Aug. 14. See www.greatlakesforever.org for contest rules and submission details.

CORRECTIONS:

Captions Omitted In last issue’s map feature, “Rockhound Road Trip,� we left out the captions for the photos on pages 15-16. Our apologies for any confusion. The correct captions and credits are below. PAGE 15: Collecting rocks on the Lake Superior shoreline can be a solitary or group pursuit. | JAMES SMEDLEY Amethyst is the birthstone for people born in February. | SIMON BLACKLEY/ FLICKR Thomsonite is sometimes found still embedded in basalt. The waviness of the stromatolite columns in Mary Ellen jasper may stem from the ancient cyanobacteria “tracking� the sun. | JAMES ST. JOHN, OHIO STATE A clump of fossils embedded in matrix, or surrounding material, is called a concretion. | SANKAX/FLICKR PAGE 16: This Lake Superior agate exhibits a “fortification� pattern on one face. | SHELBY GONZALEZ Transparent beach glass is very common. | CLAIRITY/FLICKR

NORTHERN WILDS August - September 2011

10 DAYS OF MUSIC Radio Waves Music Festival

14th Annual Hike for Health NIPIGON SEPT. 24

GRAND MARAIS SEPT. 10-11

By Tasha Sutton

Sashay over to Sweetheart’s Bluff in the Grand Marais Recreation Area and lend your ears to the fourth annual Radio Waves Music Festival, put on by local radio station WTIP. Groove to the sounds of talented local musicians and enjoy food vendors and a children’s activity area. Details at www. wtip.org.

Every year, on the last Saturday of September, the Land of the Nipigon Waterways and the Rotary Club of Nipigon host a “Hike for Health” along the Nipigon River Recreation Trail in order to raise monies for the area. During the rugged 10 km trek, hikers enjoy views from three lookouts over Nipigon Bay on Lake Superior, and later relax on the leisurely portion of the trail beside the Nipigon River and its wetlands.

Unplugged X: The Northern Harvest GRAND MARAIS SEPT. 15-18 The tenth anniversary of Unplugged, presented by North House Folk School, will include two shows with the NPR radio program Mountain Stage, the classic Saturday night concert, speakers, mini courses and traditional craft workshops. See www.northhouse.org/programs/ events/unplugged.htm.

ORDEALS ON WHEELS Sawtooth Mountain Bike Challenge GRAND MARAIS AUG. 27 Climb from downtown Grand Marais to the slopes of Pincushion Mountain – and down again – as part of this something-for-everyone event. Race distances range from 8-24 miles and include beginner, sport and expert-level races. Details at www.sawtoothchallenge.org.

Photo Courtesy of WTIP

WATCH IT LIKE A HAWK Hawk Weekend HAWK RIDGE BIRD OBSERVATORY Whether you are an obsessive birdwatcher or a casual bird-spotter, you are sure to get a thrill from seeing hundreds or even thousands of migrating hawks hugging the North Shore on their long annual journey. Join the Hawk Ridge celebration and viewing of this event during what could be a peak color weekend. More information at www.hawkridge.org.

ual

Ann the 4th Photo by Micheal Furtman

The Landing at Devil Track Resort

DULUTH SEPT. 17 Take on the same course as Grandma’s Marathon runners, but with wheels instead of treads. The 16th annual NorthShore Inline Marathon event includes a half marathon, a full marathon, a pre-race spaghetti feed, and a skate and fitness expo. Details at www. northshoreinline.com.

Full Menu

including steaks, seafood, pasta, burgers, sandwiches and fresh local fish!

The day begins with a bus ride from the Nipigon Trailhead to Red Rock, where hikers are greeted with a complimentary continental breakfast at the Red Rock Fish and Game Club. Water stations are available along the hike, and the hike wraps up with a lunch, entertainment and prizes at the Nipigon Community Centre. Pledge sheets are available throughout the district and at the breakfast in Red Rock. This is a family affair; hikers from as young as three to over eighty have participated.Details at www.nipigon.net/visitors.

WTIP North Shore Community Radio and the North Shore Music Association present

DULUTH SEPT. 16-18

LAKESIDE DINING & BANQUET FACILITY

NorthShore Inline Marathon

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Saturday, September 10 & Sunday, September 11 at Sweetheart’s Bluff in the Grand Marais Recreation Area

Full Bar Live Music Boat & Pontoon Rentals

Featuring an eclectic line-up of North Shore Musicians and the Minneapolis-based group The Vibro Champs Kids area! On-site food! Camping!

205 Fireweed Lane, Grand Marais · 1-877-387-9414 218-387-9414 · www.deviltrackresort.com

www.wtip.org www.northshoremusicassociation.com

Direct Access to Snowmobile Trails

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NORTHERN WILDS August - September 2011

Wild Events Calendar

AUG 1 Grand Portage National Monument

Interpretive Programs daily till Sept 5. 218-475-0123

AUG 2 Thunder Bay Community Theater 7:00 p.m. 8 07- 343-2310

Superior Dream

Kayaking the World’s Largest Lake Lutsen Resort 7:30 – 9 p.m. info@lutsenresort.com

Hedstrom’s Mill Guided Tour

Gunint Trail 12:30 p.m. – 1:30 p.m. Res. required 218-387-2995, ext 11

Naturalist Program

Wildlife Found in Minnesota Woods and Lakes Grand Marais RV Park 7:30 p.m. – 9 p.m.

Naturalist Program

Loons of Minnesota Northern Lakes BlueďŹ n Bay Resort- Tofte 7:30 p.m. – 9 p.m.

AUG 37 Fisherman’s Picnic Tennis Tournament

AUG 12ďšş14

AUG 20

SEPT 1 ďšş 25

Rendezvous Days – Pow Wow Grand Portage Heritage

Gitchi Gami Bike Ride

Plein Air Curated by the Art Colony Johnson

Temperance River Wayside to Cook Co Rd 1.10 a.m. www.shta.org

SEPT 16ďšş17

Anishnawbee Keeshigun Native Festival

Nature Photography with Barry Wojciechowski

Temperance River Wayside to Britton Peak 10 a.m. www.shta.org

SEPT 4

North Star Expo

SEPT 28ďšş OCT 7

with Dale Tormondsen on Commercial Fishing Lake Superior. Cook County Museum, Grand Marais 4 p.m. 218-387-2883

AUG 4,6,12 AND 14 Arrowhead Center for the Art, Grand Marais 7 p.m. Sunday at 2 p.m. 218-387-1284

AUG 5ďšş7 Live from the Rock Folk Festival Red Rock, Ontario Livefromtherock.com

Two Harbors Kayak Festival

Stand-up Paddle Race on Sunday. Two Harbors kayakfestival.org

AUG 5, 7, 11, 13 Always Patsy Cline

Arrowhead Center for the Art, Grand Marais 7 p.m. Sun at 2 p.m. 218-387-1284

AUG 6 Nature Talk - What’s Up with North Shore Moose? Sugarloaf Cove, Schroeder10 a.m. www. sugarloafnorthshore.org

www.cookcountytennis.org

AUG 12

AUG 4ďšş7

Free Community Dance

Fisherman’s Picnic Grand Marais www.gmlions.com

Guided Hike

AUG 4

Small Talk

Shout! A Musical

Daniel Tosh - Tour on Ice

For more event listings, log on to: www.NorthernWilds.com

North Shore Swing Dance Band. 4H Building, Grand Marais 7-9 p.m. 218-387-2358

Relay for Life

National Walk Sponsored by American Cancer Society Silver Bay 218-226-4576

Center and Historic Site 218-475-0123 ext 255

Fort William Historical Park, Thunder Bay events@fwhp.ca

23rd Bayfront Blues Festival Duluth

www.bayfrontblues.com

AUG 12ďšş28 Alice Powell

“A Superior Life –50 plus years on the North Shore� Johnson Heritage Post Grand Marais 218-387-2314

AUG 13 Nature Talk

Ice Cream, Spiders and Fun Featuring Larry Weber Sugarloaf Cove, Schroeder 1 p.m. www.sugarloafnorthshore.org

AUG 13 ďšş14 Tori Celebration and Fall Music Festival

Gooseberry State Park to Beaver Bay www.ggta.org

Sleeping Giant Provincial Park, Ontario 10 – 5 p.m. www.superiorvisits.com

Field and Screen

Tips and Techniques for Outdoor Photography Sugarloaf Cove, Schroeder 10 a.m. www.sugarloafnorthshore.org

Fall Superior Trail Race

Hawk Weekend

Hawk Ridge Nature Reserve, Duluth www.hawkridge.org

AUG 20ďšş21

SEPT 10 Fort William Fall Street Festival

North Shore Inline Marathon Two Harbors to

Duluth 10 a.m. – 6 Artinbayfrontpark,com

AUG 26 ďšť SEPT 4 9th Annual Plein Air Painting Competition

art@boreal.org

AUG 25 ďšť SEPT 4 Gas and Candles

AUG 27

Leo Kottke in Concert

Guided Hike

Cook County Community Center, Grand Marais 8 a.m. – 6 p.m. www.ccfair.weebly.com

SEPT 9 ďšť 10

SEPT 16ďšş18

Bayfront Park Art Fair

AUG 19

AUG 19ďšş20

Chik-Wauk Museum and Nature Center and Gunint Trail businesses1 p.m. – 5 p.m. www.gunint-trail.com

SEPT 17

Finland

Cook County Fair

A Taste of the Gunflint

Logging/Trucking/Sawmill Show Grand Rapids 218-722-5013

www.superiortrailrace.com

Arrowhead Center for the Arts, Grand Marais 7 p.m. Sun: 2 p.m. 218-387-1284

Arrowhead Center for the Art, Grand Marais 7:30 p.m. www.northshoremusicassociation.com

Heritage Post, Grand Marais

10:30 a.m. – 4:30 p.m. Thunder Bay info@victoriabia.ca

Riverfest

Kam River Heritage Park, Thunder Bay Noon – 5 p.m. 807-625-2487

SEPT 10ďšş11 WTIP Radio Waves Music Festival wtip.org

SEPT 15ďšş18

Cascade State Park to Caribou Trail 10 a.m. www.shta.org

AUG 27

Unplugged X with Mountain Stage

North House Folk School Info@northhouse.org

Duluth northshoreinline.com

SEPT 18 Terry Fox 5 K Run/Walk Thunder Bay 2 p.m. 807-623-8338

Thunder Bay Marathon – Miles with the Giant 8 a.m. 2 p.m. Marina Park, Thunder Bay 807-627-7770

SEPT 22 Wine and Beer Tasting Gala

Cross River Heritage Center, Schroeder 7:00 pm 2 18-663-7706

Bachman and Turner

Sawtooth Mountain Bike Challenge

SEPT 17

Thunder Bay Auditorium 8 p.m. 800-463-8817

Finn Fest & Booya.

SEPT 23 ďšť OCT 2

Nature Talk

Fall Color Tours into October.

15 South Broadway 10 a.m. Bike@boreal.org

Lake Superior Invasive Species Sugarloaf Cove, Schroeder 10 a.m. sugarloafnorthshore.org

Member FDIC

Finland Rec. Center.

Finland MN 10 a.m. – 4 p.m. FinlandHOA@yahoo.com

Art Colony Annual Member Show

SEPT 24 Guided Hike

Crossing Borders

Artists’ studios along Highway 61 crossingbordersstudiotour.com

SEPT 29 Red Green Tour

Thunder Bay Auditorium 8 p.m. 800-463-8817

SEPT 29 ďšť OCT 2 Bay Street Film Festival

Finlandia Club, Thunder Bay www.baystreetfilmfestival.com

SEPT 29 ďšş OCT 16 Wings, Water and Wildflowers

Johnson Heritage Post, Grand Marais 218-387-2314

SEPT 30 Fall Colors Workshop

Photography with Barry Wojciechowski. Sleeping Giant Provincial Park, Thunder Bay 10–5 p.m. superiorvisits.com

OCT 1 Guided Hike

Caribou River Wayside to Cook Cty. Rd 1 10 a.m. www.shta.org

Grand Marais Art Colony www.grandmaraisart colony.org

www.GrandMaraisStateBank.com

(SBOE .BSBJT t 5PGUF t

NORTHERN WILDS August - September 2011

See You at Rendezvous!

9

By Anna Martineau-Merritt

Voyageurs navigate a 40-foot Montreal canoe in Grand Portage Bay as part of Rendezvous 2006. | GRAND PORTAGE NATIONAL MONUMENT

Anishnawbe Keeshigun Aboriginal Festival Aug. 19-21 • Fort William Historical Park, Thunder Bay

A dancer displays red regalia during the Anishnawbe Keeshigun Aboriginal Festival. | FORT WILLIAM HISTORICAL PARK.

Powwow and Rendezvous 101 If you have never been to a historical reenactment or powwow, here are a few things to know. You are encouraged to watch and participate in both events. Know your terminology. The elaborate, colorful outfits worn at the powwow are not “costumes,” explains Dana Logan, Grand Portage powwow chair. The outfits are called regalia, and each piece and part has a meaning and a story. Taking broad “scene” photos is fi ne at the group events. If you want to snap a photo of an individual actor at Rendezvous dressed

in period clothing or a person at the powwow dressed in traditional regalia, be respectful and ask permission fi rst. At certain times, cameras are not allowed. Some dances are reserved for tribal members.

Friday evening’s festivities focus on Aboriginal art. Saturday and Sunday are full of powwow dancing, drumming, vendors, hearty food and people dressed in colorful regalia in the dance arena. Everyone is encouraged to take part in the festivities. As with other powwows, listen to the emcee for directions and information. Details at www.fwhp.ca.

The Great Rendezvous Place

The emcee will set out rules, announce intertribal dance times when everyone is welcome to dance, and explain the signifcance behind individual dances. The emcee will also be happy to answer your questions. Details at www.grandportage.com.

Grand Portage Rendezvous and Powwow Aug. 12-14 • Grand Portage National Monument You won’t see buckskin suits and Daniel Boone hats at Rendezvous, explains Pam Neil, event coordinator for the event. This reenactment, which has taken place since the early 1970s, is set in the Great Lakes time period, from the late 1780s to the early 1800s. Rendezvous gives history-lovers a chance to brings to life the annual gatherings where voyageurs and Native people would come together to trade goods and sell furs to the North West Company. Details at www.nps.gov/grpo.

Fort William historical park has been hosting the Anishnawbe Keeshigun Aboriginal Festival for nearly 25 years. Marty Mascarin, communications officer at the park, explains the festival’s name. Anishnawbe means”original people” – this is the word that the Aboriginal people use to refer to themselves – and keeshigun means to “day” or “days.”

The Grand Portage Reservation sponsors a powwow near Rendezvous each year. Powwows were held to celebrate the end of a long winter, the return of hunters, a good harvest, and even new romances. The powwow will include Native vendors selling all kinds of crafts and abundant food, such as wild rice soup, burgers, hot dogs, and almost anything you can do with fry bread – including fry bread tacos. Due to the decline in the moose population, the Tribe has decided to take moose off the menu.

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NORTHERN WILDS August - September 2011

Hikes for the Whole Family Six top Superior Hiking Trail treks, plus the secret of “lollipop power�

Story and photos by Eric Chandler Here’s the most important tip for hiking with kids: leave them wanting more. Kids can go farther than you think, but you have to keep them interested or a fun family hike can turn into a miserable slog. Luckily, the North Shore has day trips with attention-getting views and lots of “wow� per mile. So grab your kids and head for the hills. Afterward, make sure “hiking� equals “fun.� Stop at the local ice cream or pie establishment for a reward. You—oops, they —deserve it. If you’re talking about walking in the Northern Wilds, you’ll eventually mention the Superior Hiking Trail (SHT). The queen of North Shore hiking is 275 miles long, with a 39-mile section right through Duluth. The SHT is full of day trips that are just right for families. Here are six of them. Details at www.shta.org.

Ely’s Peak This gem of a trip starts at the Munger Trail trailhead at 123rd Avenue West off

Beck’s Road. This 1.8-mile round trip starts down the paved Munger Trail. Very quickly, you start up open ledges with fantastic views of the St. Louis River. Find the 300-foot spur to the summit and tuck into a picnic lunch.

Hawk Ridge This stand-alone system is connected to the SHT by a spur. Find the easternmost section of Skyline in Duluth and drive east until you see an informational kiosk. There are several trail options from here that have great views of Gitchee Gumee and, if you’re lucky, thousands of migrating raptors. Visit www.hawkridge.org to learn more about the trails and Hawk Weekend on Sept. 16-18.

LEFT: The Chandler children shamelessly display their sweet bribes. ABOVE: Chandlerette gets a lift up Leveaux Mountain with Sam (front) and Eric doing the legwork.

Bean and Bear Lakes

Carlton Peak

Find your way to the trailhead on the north side of Penn Boulevard outside of Silver Bay. This 5-mile round trip was somewhat challenging, but we got through it by employing another classic tactic for hiking with kids: Lollipop Power. The massive cliffs and incredible views of Bean Lake made the bribery totally worth it.

I asked Andy Holak for some family trail suggestions. He owns the Adventure Running Company (www.adventurerunningco.com) based in Duluth with his wife Kim. They’ve been running on the SHT for 15 years. He said Carlton Peak is a great hike for kids. He has a picture of his children at the summit when they were “really little.� Go 2 miles above Tofte on the Sawbill Trail to get to the trailhead.

High Falls of the Baptism River What kid doesn’t like to walk on a footbridge over a river? And then see the highest waterfall within the borders of Minnesota? At Tettegouche State Park, drive uphill to the highest parking lot and begin the 1-mile round trip to see if your kids are immune from the charms of rushing water.

Oberg Mountain I’ll admit it. This is my favorite. It’s just right: awesome views of Lake Superior, easy to get to, plenty of cliffs to take your breath away, and in the fall the colors are dazzling. Find the Onion River Road (Forest Road 336) and go uphill to the trailhead parking lot. You can thank me later.

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Logging Camp Cuisine Homemade soup with a side of history Story and photos by Kevin J. Bovee Driving up Hwy. 61 and spotting the iconic white draft horses hooked to a loaded timber sled, you may guess that Tom’s Logging Camp is a place to stop and get a history fi x. What you might not guess is that it’s also a place to get a food fi x.

Bill Weckman adds cream to his popular cream of wild rice soup.

First, the history. Tom’s Logging Camp and Old Northwest Company Trading Post recreates a northern Minnesota logging camp from days gone by. The main visitor trail winds through thick spruce and pine woods to a series of authentic-tothe-period buildings, among them a horse barn, a bunkhouse, a blacksmith shop, a cook shack, and, of course, a Finnish sauna. Each building boasts historically accurate tools and decor.

table, or get it to go if you’re in a hurry. The food is prepared on-site, using local goods whenever possible. For example, the bread is crafted at an artisanal bakery in Superior, Wis. and the wild rice hails from Grand Rapids.

Interspersed along the trail is a trout pond and pens with pygmy goats and llamas. The trading post features local staples like wild rice, maple syrup, jams and jellies, handmade soaps and Minnetonka moccasins.

Bill runs the food side and has two madefrom-scratch soups each day along with sandwiches and sides like cole slaw and potato salad. Try the soup and sandwich special if you can’t decide what to get.

Tom’s Logging Camp is run by Lauren and Bill Weckman and assisted by their twin daughters. The original owner, Tom Deebach, settled the business at its current location around 1960. Lauren is the daughter of the second owner and has been running the operation for almost 25 years.

My wife Mary and I recently stopped at Tom’s Logging Camp for a lunch date. She got the corn chowder and a turkey sandwich on cranberry-wild rice bread, while I sampled the cream of wild rice soup and a beef sandwich. The cream of wild rice is the bestselling soup. Its tastiness is unsurprising, given that the recipe calls for a quart of cream.

In 2010, the Weckmans added food to the mix. Sandwiches, soup, beverages and ice cream can be purchased at the café. Sit down inside the café or outside at a picnic

The cook shack, reservations for seven.

Visitor Information: Tom’s Logging Camp and Old Northwest Company Trading Post is located about 16 miles northeast of Duluth off of Hwy. 61. Open May 1 through Oct. 20 each year. Summer museum hours are 9 a.m to 7 p.m., seven days a week. More information at (218) 525-4120 or www.tomsloggingcamp.com.

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NORTHERN WILDS August - September 2011

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Enjoy a day in the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness. Paddle the “Kelso Loop” three beautiful wilderness lakes in three hours. Lightweight canoe rental, maps, permits, and instruction available. (218) 663-7150 www.sawbill.com info@sawbill.com

Kadunce River:

Story and photo by Eve and Gary Wallinga

Snakeskin rocks and ‘Heart of the Earth Falls’ LOCATED: Colvill HIKE DIFFICULTY: Moderate TRAIL QUALITY: Fair DISTANCE ROUND TRIP: 2 miles TRAILHEAD: The Kadunce River, by Colvill, is near milepost 118. Park on the lakeside of Hwy. 61. Cross 61 to the east side of the river, where a sign says “Spur Trail for Superior Hiking Trail.”

Set out from the trailhead. The trail and canyon walls rise through conifer and birch. Within five minutes, a series of steps takes you above the river to an overlook of the deep, narrow canyon. A cave is visible on the opposite wall. Continue ascending. Within minutes you’ll hear a waterfall as the trail gently curves and a 10-foot path backtracks left onto a canyon headland. Navigating the path, you become a literal “tree-hugger.” The canyon walls are precipitous, but there is an almost hidden waterfall that pours into a little cave where the river takes a 180-degree turn. Return to the main path, and when the trail comes to a T, go right (upriver) or hard left, onto a short spur loop trail through the pines. This little beak of land is host to diminutive northland plants and flowers. Staying close to the canyon edge, you can catch another glimpse of the falls below. Retrace your steps to the T. You’ll pass a cleared area on the left where you can hear and see what we consider the best waterfall on the river. Walk one more minute to another overlook at the top of the falls. The water emerges from a dark, narrow canyon, passing over a fissure only two or three feet wide, taking a steep, 12-foot slide to a horseshoe-shaped basin. Here the canyon walls are black and red. The river burrows into the shadowy depths of the earth. We call it “Heart of the Earth Falls.” Upriver, you’ll encounter another smaller waterfall – a gradual, fleecy slide flowing around a corner. If the flow isn’t too great, notice the black and red snakeskin-patterned rock beneath the water. Continue to another waterfall, about three feet high, around the bend. A bridge and bench sit above the top of this slide. Cross the bridge. The trail continues upriver on the opposite bank, and after 100 yards, the main Superior Hiking trail continues left, uphill. The river trail continues as an informal path through the woods, where you’ll shortly fi nd a curving

A section of “Heart of the Earth Falls” forms a watery veil over the rocks.

slide of shallow water, fl anked by moss. The trail narrows, heading away from the river a short distance. When it rejoins, look upstream for a shallow waterfall slipping over small rounded shelves into a pool. Maple trees have joined the forest canopy as the trail takes a final curve and ends.

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Out of the Way Thunder Bay DOG LAKE Story and photos by Elle Andra-Warner

Adventure Trifecta

Backroads to Grain Industry Giants Back roads along Thunder Bay’s waterfront take you up close to the city’s giant grain elevators. Fifty or sixty years ago, at the peak of grain shipping from the lakehead, there were 27 working elevators here; today only nine remain in operation. From Fisherman’s Park, you can enjoy views of the mouth of the You can get close to eleva- Current River, a handful of islands, and a working grain elevator. tors from three roads. The first is Maureen Street (turn left after the Intercity bridge) with the Rock Walking on Ancient Ground most working elevators: Canada Malting, Less than five minutes from the last trafViterra B, Viterra A, and Parrish and fic light on Balsam Street and Highway Heimbecker. A bonus along this route is a 11/17, is one of Canada’s top rock walking glimpse of the monolithic rusting iron ore sites. Located beside the Current River, dock where trainloads of ore once arrived the ancient rock outcrops are part of the from Atikokan’s Steep Rock Iron Mines to Cambrian Shield. be loaded on freighters. The parking lot is the last reminder of urA second road is on Shipyard Drive just ban life because once you step on one of the past Fisherman’s Park and has two work- five colour-coded trails, nature surrounds ing elevators, Viterra C and Richardson’s. you. There are over 6 kilometres of trails, Great photo opportunities exist, especially the longest being the Orange Trail (1,600 if there is a ship loading. The third road metres) through the forest and the Red (my favourite) is on Marina Park Drive. Trail (1,400 metres) which runs parallel to Turn right after the overpass at the “No the river. Shortest is the paved barrier-free Exit’’ sign and drive to the road’s end for Forest Trail (775 m) through the mixed a turnabout. Along the way there are some forest. great views of the harbour, Sleeping Giant, an abandoned elevator, a float plane base and Richardson’s Elevator near road’s end. Country in the City Walk, jog, cycle, in-line skate, paddle a kayak or canoe...take your leisurely time Fisherman’s Park at one of Thunder Bay’s most historic wilon Current River derness areas at the north end of the city, While photographing at the mouth of Boulevard Lake. Created in 1901 when a the Current River last fall, I discovered a head pond was created after the Current new gravel walking trail east of the road River dam was constructed, the two sides bridge on Shipyard Drive. The trail is part of the new lake were connected in 1910 by of Fisherman’s Park, a volunteer-driven Black Bay Bridge. In 1913, a ring road was public park project initiated by the North built around the lake as a park drive. Shore Steelhead Association. When complete, Fisherman’s Park will have paved trails, open air shelters, viewing platforms, a network of bridges connecting the islands, and storyboards about the riverfront’s rich history. This is where the Thunder Bay Silver Mining Company operated a mine from 1866 to 1870. In 1880s, the area was a top Port Arthur “tourist attraction,” referred to as an ‘’Edwardian waterfront pleasure ground” by one local newspaper.

Return of the Golden Era

At the city’s south end, Chippewa Park has been a part of summer since 1921. The historic facility includes a log cabin dance hall/pavilion and the city’s only amusement park—complete with a roller coaster and wooden horses carousel (one of only three remaining in the world). The park’s Tourist Camp offers rental of 21 log cabins and 14 historic cabins, and offers a swimming beach and children’s playground.

Looking for adventure? Load up your ATV, rack your climbing gear or wriggle into your drysuit and embark on one of these true Thunder Bay backroads adventures. Needless to say, seek adventure suited to your experience level.

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Ride Crown Land

Pack a GPS device and a local buddy for an ATV expedition into Ontario’s extensive areas of Crown land. Mike Sawatsky, sales representative at North Country Cycle and Sports in Thunder Bay, recommends the Crime Stopper Explorer Series Maps to avoid that “oh crap, I’m lost” feeling. See www.atvontario.com and www.kestrelforestry.com.

Dive Superior Shipwrecks

Wrecked ships litter the bottom of Lake Superior, and the Thunder Bay stretch of coastline is no exception. There are also rivers and lakes to explore. Beginner divers can tackle close-to-the-surface wrecks, while expert divers can venture to the wreck of the Gunilda (off Rossport) or go searching for the secret “Ship Graveyard.” See www. scubaboard.com/forums/ ontario-fresh-waterfreaks/.

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Climb the Sleeping Giant

Got multipitch? Hike roughly four miles to the base of the Sleeping Giant and tackle one of the couple dozen climbing routes, including a couple of solid multipitch routes, such as Discovery (5.7). Most climbs are rated 5.5 to 5.8 and should be led with traditional gear. You can also scramble to the summit. See www. rockclimbing.com or www. summitpost.org.

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NORTHERN WILDS August - September 2011

Left: The author launches his sea kayak from a rocky Lake Superior beach during his 2010 circumnavigation. | GREG PETRY Middle: Protect maps and navigation notes in a waterproof container when not in use. | LUCAS WILL. Right: Stash maps on the bow for easy reference during the day. | LUCAS WILL.

Wet and Wild

A region-by-region snapshot of the Lake Superior Water Trail

By Lucas Will

kept the shoreline on our left, I reasoned, we wouldn’t need much in the way of maps.

When we first started planning our kayaking circumnavigation of Lake Superior, I remember thinking that all we had to do to navigate after paddling out of the Duluth canal was turn left. As long as we

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tination. Just as hikers look for a detailed guide to the footpath ahead of them, it was conceived in the early 1990s that kayakers would benefit from a similar guide.

Lakeshore and Michigan’s Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore.

Minnesota

The Lake Superior Water Trail is a cooperative effort between First Nations, Minnesota, Wisconsin, Michigan and Ontario to establish a water path all the way around Lake Superior. To date, there are a handful of regional trails that—it is hoped —will one day connect to form a full circle. Whether you’re looking for a weekend jaunt or a three-month paddling odyssey, the Lake Superior Water Trail can help you get around the big lake.

Minnesota’s portion of the Lake Superior Water Trail was established in 1993 by the state legislature and is jointly maintained by the DNR and the Lake Superior Water Trail Association of Minnesota. For all of the Minnesota shoreline, we used a four-part map series published by the DNR to show us campsites and to help detail private and public land along the waterfront.

Map Basics

Wisconsin’s segment of the trail carpets its whole share of the Superior coast, from Wisconsin Point around the Bayfield Peninsula to the Montreal River, including all of the Apostle Islands – roughly 400 total miles of paddling.

Most of the maps are printed on waterproof and tear-proof paper. We found them for purchase at local outdoor shops or guiding outfitters and were also able to see and order them online. The route descriptions include GPS coordinates, area amenities and important information about access points, rest areas, shoreline contours, and land ownership. According to the publishing agencies, Lake Superior Water Trail maps are not intended to be the sole source for navigation, but combined with topographical or nautical charts. Throughout our trip around Lake Superior, we found these maps particularly useful for identifying “outs” should conditions get too big. And though we enjoyed finding our own campsites much of the time, we appreciated seeing where established ones were when we needed to respect private property. Camping permits are sometimes required, such as when traveling in areas like Wisconsin’s Apostle Islands National

Wisconsin

Michigan The Keweenaw Water Trail wraps around the Keweenaw Peninsula from the lower entrance to the upper entrance of the Portage Canal. Farther east, after a short gap in the trail, the Hiawatha Water Trail follows a historic Native American paddling route 120 miles along the sandy southern shore from Big Bay to Grand Marais, Mich. This trail includes the circumnavigation of Grand Island off Munising.

Ontario Along the rest of Michigan’s Upper Peninsula and in Ontario, the water trail is still being developed. While permits aren’t required to paddle on the water trail itself, some of the areas require float plans, including Ontario’s Pukaskwa National Park.

NORTHERN WILDS August - September 2011

NORTHERN WILDS

adventures

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R O L O C L L FAD I T I O N E

Fall Colors Safari Spot critters amidst the changing leaves By Shelby Gonzalez Two reasons people travel to Africa are the dramatic landscape and the wildlife. Travelers shell out for airfare and safari fees and arm themselves with cameras in hopes of absorbing the beauty of the savanna and the majesty of the Big Five: lions, leopards, buffalos, rhinos and elephants. You don’t have to cross an ocean to experience awesome animals. The Northern Wilds boasts its own Big Five: moose, wolves, black bears, lynx, and eagles. If you are sharp-eyed and lucky this fall, you may spot one of these creatures against the backdrop of the forest in full color. Here are eight places and ways to enjoy the changing leaves—and wild denizens—of the North this autumn.

Get Wowed at Ouimet Canyon Ouimet Canyon Provincial Park, Dorion Ouimet Canyon is two miles long, 350 feet deep, and lures visitors with spectacular beauty and a tragic origin story. The canyon floor is said to be the resting place of Naninboujou’s daughter Naiomi, who was killed when the top broke off a mountain being Ouimet Canyon is a stunner in any season. moved by the gi- | PAUL SUNDBERG ant Omett. Arctic flowers and plants inhabit the cool microclimate at the canyon floor; stick to the platfoms to protect the fragile fauna. Privately owned attraction Eagle Canyon is nearby. More information at www.ontarioparks.com.

Drive the Gunflint Trail Grand Marais The Gunfl int Trail is actually a road – County Road 12, to be specific – winding its way from Grand Marais to the Canadian border lakes through the Superior National

Forest. The 57-m ile-long Gunfl int is designated as a Minnesota Scenic Byway. Enjoy seemingly endless miles of autumn-fiery wilderness scrolling past your windows. Keep an eye on the sides of the road for leaping deer and maybe, if you’re lucky, a moose. The Gunfl int is studded with lodging and dining options, Boundary Waters access points, and historical sites, including the ChikWauk Museum and Nature Center. Details at www.byways.org

Meet the Wolves International Center, Ely

A moose tests the Highway 61 pavement delicately, beginning to cross. | TRAVIS NOVITSKY

Wolf

Have you ever met an ambassador? How about an “ambassador wolf ”? Check out the International Wolf Center, where you can meet Aidan Actress Amber Tamblyn goes nose-toand Denali, the two nose with Grizzer, an ambassador wolf. | northwestern sub- INTERNATIONAL WOLF CENTER species wolves who inhabit the main outdoor enclosure, and explore the new

“Our Shared Planet” exhibit featuring life-size sculptures by Jim Ramsdell. Special events happen periodically, such as classes and the annual Howl-O-Ween Family Slumber Party. More information at www.wolf.org.

Hang Out with Bears Vince Shute Wildlife Sanctuary, Orr Bears are the stars of the show at the Vince Shute Wildlife Sanctuary, where you can stand on a wooden viewing platform with a 270-degree view of black bears going about their lives. The sanctuary comprises a diverse landscape— aspen woods, meadows and cedar swamps—welcoming over 80 bears each year. Bobcats, lynx, eagles and timber wolves are occasional visitors. More information at www. americanbear.org.

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NORTHERN WILDS August - September 2011

Take the Autumn Train

RATES:

The Depot, Duluth

(2 person min. 3rd person ½ price)

Sit back and let the colors come to you with a ride on the North Shore Scenic Railroad Fall Colors Tour. The train – a historic model from the Lake Superior Railroad Museum – departs the Union Depot at 10:30 a.m. on select dates in September and October, weaving along the lakeshore at a leisurely pace. After a two-hour layover in Two Harbors for lunch, shopping and sightseeing, hop back aboard for the return to the Depot and one more chance to take in the changing leaves. More information at www.northshorescenicrailroad.org.

15 Minutes: $50 /person 20 Minutes: $70 /person 30 Minutes: $90 /person 40 Minutes: $100 /person One Hour Moose Scouting Tour $300 total (for 1- 3 people) 1 ½ Hour Border Cruise $360 total (for 1- 3 people)

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The Fall Colors Train chugs over a bridge on a blue-sky fall day. | NORTH SHORE SCENIC RAILROAD

Fall Color Tours Hike Hawk Ridge

www.skydanairtours.com ANDERSON AERO Departures from Cook County Airport / Devil Track Lake - 8 miles from town Sorry...we do not accept credit cards

Hawk Ridge Bird Observatory, Duluth The star of the show at Hawk Ridge is undoubtedly the main overlook on Skyline Parkway, where on a good day in the fall you can see thousands of broadwinged hawks, rough-legged hawks, golden eagles, bald eagles, red-tailed hawks and northern goshawks winging along the North Shore. Visit in the middle of the day on a day with west or northwest wind to maximize the number of birds you are likely to spot. Bring binoculars! Within Hawk Ridge Nature Reserve, there are a dozen different short and medium trails ripe for exploration. It’s a bird! It’s a plane! No, wait, it’s More information at www.hawkridge. a bird! A young enthusiast trains binoculars at the sky at Hawk org.

Ride the Red Dot Trail

Ridge. | MICHAEL FURTMAN

Silver Bay ATV newbies and veterans alike can enjoy weaving through the colorful, critter-populated woods of Finland State Forest and Tettegouche State Park on the Red Dot Trail, 28 miles of woods broken up with bluffs and Lake Superior vistas. Connect with the Moose Run and Moose Walk Trails to lengthen your ride to 54 miles. Details at www.dnr.state.mn.us.

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We Deliver up to 10 miles out

When cruising Highway 61 in the autumn, switch off driving duties so everyone gets a turn to gawk. | SHELBY GONZALEZ

Summit Eagle Mountain Eagle Mountain Trailhead, Lutsen Fill your lungs with fresh Boundary Waters air on the way up Eagle Montain. Find the trailhead off Cty. Road 4 (before Lutsen), register for a free day permit, then follow the trail and signs 3.5 miles to the highest point in Minnesota, passing the blue gem of Whale Lake. Pack a picnic and look for the summit plaque. Detailed directions at www.summitpost. org. Want the views without the workout? Ride the Lutsen Mountains gondola to the summit of Moose Mountain instead. More information at www.lutsen. com.

NORTHERN WILDS August - September 2011

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1 Ouimet Canyon

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Provincial Park

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Dorion

www.ontarioparks.com

Kakabeka Falls

Ely

www.wolf.org

Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness

Ely

4

1

www.byways.org

Shute 4 Vince Wildlife Sanctuary Orr

www.americanbear.org

Mountain and 5 Eagle Moose Mountain Lutsen

7

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6

53

www.northshorescenicrailroad.org

Duluth

www.hawkridge.org

Silver Bay

For more scenic adventures, look for “Backroads of Minnesota” at local retailers or at www.northshorepress.com

Cotton

Two Harbors Duluth 35

Grand Marais

Lutsen Tofte

Isabella

Biwabik Eveleth

Cloquet

Grand Portage 61

5

1

8

61

7

Superior

North Shore Scenic Railroad Fall Colors Trail Duluth-Two Harbors

Thunder Bay

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3

Virginia

Silver Bay-Beaver Bay

Hawk Ridge Overlook 8

2

169

Red Dot Trail www.dnr.state.mn.us

Gunfl int T r

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Tower

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6

11

1

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Trail 3 Gunflint Grand Marais

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Send your fall safari photos to editor@northernwilds.com and you could be featured in an upcoming issue.

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NORTHERN WILDS August - September 2011

Breathtaking

Blue Birds

Surprise! Their feathers aren’t really blue at all It is no secret to readers of Northern Wilds that the northern forests are not lush, steamy jungles alive with brightly colored birds. Most of our birds have a sombercolored beauty. But there are always exceptions to the rule, like the brilliant scarlet of the male northern cardinal, the orange male Baltimore oriole, and the nearly neon yellow of the male goldďŹ nch in breeding season.

be dry and sparsely forested. It was a morning in May, and as I prowled along with my camera looking for migrating warblers, I ďŹ rst heard, and then saw, a brilliant blue bird perched at the very top of a yet-to-leaf-out aspen.

Through My Lens

BY MICHAEL FURTMAN

Then there are the blue birds. Birds of blue we have. Most of you can quickly name two of them. The ďŹ rst one to come to mind is the blue jay, which is very common in our area, and whose range overlaps the more boreal Canada jay. Next is the bluebird. We are at the northern edge of its range. Though often associated with open ďŹ elds and meadows to our south, it is found in every Minnesota county, including Lake and Cook. There is a third bird of blue in our area, one not often seen, and one whose coloration is so brilliant it might take your breath away when you ďŹ nally spot one.

of its color.

It was mating season, and the little male bird sang his territorial tune at the top of his tiny lungs. As the warm morning sun struck the bird, I was dazzled by the intensity

About the size of a fox sparrow, indigo buntings thrive in forest margins and openings, like those along the Lake Superior highlands, as well as in burned-over areas and logging clear-cuts. While we often hear about declining songbird populations, according to the Natural Resource Research Institute in Duluth, this species is expanding in range and numbers in the Great Lakes region as we create more open habitats.

I refer, of course, to the indigo bunting.

The female is yellowish-brown. Both sexes sport a short, thick bill, much like that of a grosbeak, with which they feed on insects, seeds and fruit.

The ďŹ rst indigo bunting I saw was on a ridge high above Lake Superior, one of those sunny spots that, because of shallow soils and a preponderance of rock, tend to

In a way, the indigo bunting brings a bit of the tropics to the Northern Wilds. They are one of four tropical bunting species found in the United States and the only one

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frequenting Minnesota. When the chill of autumn settles in, these lovely harbingers of summer wing their way south to winter in Cuba and Central America. Besides all being found in Northern Wilds country, these three birds of blue share one surprising trait: their feathers aren’t really blue at all. A male cardinal’s color is due to pigment in its feathers that absorbs light wavelengths except those our eyes see as red. But blue isn’t due to pigment. Despite breathtaking coloration, the blue color we see in blue jays, bluebirds and indigo buntings isn’t from pigmentation but from feather structure, as are all iridescent bird markings, such as a mallard drake’s head. Minute particles in the feather reect and scat-

ter the very short wavelength of the color blue, much in the same way that miniscule particles in Earth’s atmosphere scatter blue light, resulting in the familiar “sky blueâ€? of a summer day. If you were to take a feather from any one of these blue species of birds, and hold it up between you and the light source, it will actually look brown. There’s one more cool thing about these blue feathers. They look the same when viewed from any angle. Iridescent colors result from a different feather structure modiďŹ cation, and so change with the angle of viewing, which is why a mallard drake’s head can look green or purple or blue, depending upon the angle.

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NORTHERN WILDS August - September 2011

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Singletrack Paradise Duluth trails plan gaining momentum Story and photos by Eric Chandler Duluth has a bounty of trails: cross-country ski trails, the Superior Hiking Trail, and the Lakewalk. Not enough for you? How about 100 miles of singletrack woven into the city? It’s called the Duluth Traverse, and it is the vision of the Duluth-based organization Cyclists of Gitchee Gumee Shores (www.coggs.com). There are already four destination mountain biking trail systems in Duluth: LesterAmity, Hartley Park, Piedmont, and Spirit Mountain. The goal of the Duluth Traverse is to expand some of the four existing trail systems, link them up, and create new destination systems. While it is an ambitious and long-range plan, momentum is building. I asked Adam Sundberg, chairperson of COGGS, to explain the next steps. “We have been approved by the county and city to add ďŹ ve additional miles in Lester and ďŹ ve miles in Brewer Park (across Haines Road from Piedmont). We also hope to start connecting Lester to Hartley next year as well.â€? This spring, the International Mountain Bicycling Association (IMBA) donated the time of their most experienced trail designer to scout the terrain in Duluth. They are creating a plan for a 20-mile system in Mission Creek that they hope to start next year. Early cost estimates were $2,500/mile, pushing fundraising needs to $200,000 for the creation of the Duluth Traverse. The good news is that grants and private donations have already raised $26,000. This amount makes the club competitive for a 3:1 match from a Parks Legacy grant that could leverage over $100,000.

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However, Sundberg says that initial estimates were “probably low, and it will be more like a $500,000750,000 project.�

TOP: Sam Chandler charges along the Piedmont Trail in 2009. LEFT: The inaugural Great Hawk Chase race at Lester Park in 2010 attracted peewees and pros alike.

trail and all of the trails connecting hubs (Lester to Hartley, Piedmont to Spirit) to be beginner-friendly. We realize there is a lack of easier trail here because there haven’t been many trails purpose-built for mountain biking in Duluth, they are just hiking trails that mostly have been created by use. But Lester and Mission Creek have different soils and no rock, which makes them much easier places for easier trails.�

Besides making donations and volunteering for trail work, people can help make the Duluth Traverse vision reality by donating their skills. “The big help is people with unique skills using said skills to meet a need. For instance, we have volunteers where their day job is writing grants, GIS, fundraising, community relations, etc. Having those professional skills at our use is really helpful.�

I asked what makes the Duluth mountain bike scene special. Sundberg’s quick answer: “Elevation change, views, rock, a town of 85,000 people.� His excitement about Duluth trail development is palpable as he explains, “We can have riding every bit as good as Rapid City, CAMBA [the Chequamegon area], UP of Michigan, but we have a town that is much more attractive for arts, culture, kids’ activities, shopping.

This is exciting to me as I reconnect to the sport and introduce my kids to the game. I took my son to last year’s inaugural Great Hawk Chase mountain bike race on the Lester-Amity system. It was his ďŹ rst race and he had fun. I asked where beginners ďŹ t into the Duluth Traverse plans.

“There are very few urban areas that have 100 miles of mountain biking in them. You can count them on one hand and they are nowhere near here. It’s truly a unique situation and very exciting to be a part of.�

“Basically,� Sundberg says, “we want a portion of each

Okay, okay, I’m sold. Bring on the Duluth Traverse!

NORTHERN WILDS August - September 2011

21

Your guide to finding fresh food produced right here in the Northern Wilds Story and photo by Joan Farnam There’s nothing like the taste of a homegrown tomato or a handful of sugarsnap peas fresh off the vine to tell you that summer is here. Fresh, locally grown vegetables are not just available to gardeners, either. Consumers from Thunder Bay to Duluth to the Iron Range can ďŹ nd locally grown produce in an increasing number of venues all over the region this summer. Farmer’s markets, co-ops and grocery stores as well as many restaurants are depending on local producers to provide meats, dairy products and fresh fruits and vegetables for their customers.

Downtown Artisan & Farmers Market 507 Victoria Ave. E. 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Thursdays 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturdays (807) 622-1718 www.downtownmarket.org Thunder Bay Farmer’s Market Dove Building, CLE grounds 8 a.m. to 1 p.m. Saturdays 3:30 -7 p.m. Thursdays www.thunderbaycountrymarket.com Howard Abrahamson sells tomato plants in the early spring and then vine-ripened tomatoes and peppers in the summer at the Cook County Farm & Craft Market in Grand Marais.

“It’s very exciting, and it’s also happening regionally and nationwide,� says Melinda Spinler, a grower for a CSA (Community Supported Agriculture, a local food subscription service) in Cook County. She serves on the board of the Minnesota Sustainable Development Project and is also active in the Lake Superior Chapter of the Sustainable Farming Association. One reason for this surge of interest, she maintains, is taste. “The taste is more intense, and they’re served at their peak.� More often than not, local produce is organic. Consumers today are much more aware of wanting to eat foods that haven’t been treated with chemicals, Spinler noted. There’s an economic incentive, too. By supporting local growers, you are helping the local economy and providing a base for food security in the future. All of these factors play into the increasing consumer interest in buying food that is grown in their neighborhoods, said Ardy Nurmi-Wilberg, executive director of the

Iron Range Partnership for Sustainability, which is based in Virginia. The partnership was formed three years ago as an information and networking hub for sustainability. Its annual convention, called the Iron Range Earth Fest, has become one of the biggest gatherings of its kind in the state. The “Everyday Guide to Sustainable Living on the Iron Rangeâ€? includes a guide to ďŹ nding farmer’s markets and local food producers in the region. Duluth has one of the oldest farmer’s markets in the region (it celebrates its 100th anniversary this year) and producers sell fruit, vegetables and crafts as well as eggs and poultry. Thunder Bay is another a great place to ďŹ nd locally produced food. There are three farmer’s markets there during the summer as well as pick-your-own opportunities at Belluz Farms and Mountain View Farms and locally made cheese at the Thunder Oak Cheese Farm. It’s always advisable to call ahead at pick-your-own establishments to see what’s available.

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Thunder Oak Cheese Farm RR#3, Boundary Dr. Monday to Saturday, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. (807) 628-0175 · www.cheesefarm.ca Belluz Farms 752 Candy Mountain Rd. (807) 475-5181 · www.belluzfarms.on.ca Call ahead to conďŹ rm season and hours. Vanderwees Home & Garden 6488 Mapleward Rd. 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily · (807) 767-3666 www.vanderweeshomeandgarden.com Mountain View Farms Route 6, Candy Mountain Dr. (807) 475-9575

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UMD Market Day in the Plaza 1120 Kirby Drive Wednesdays, 1:30 to 4:30 p.m. www.d.umn.edu/umdhr/wellness /farmersmarket Duluth Farmer’s Market 14th Ave. E. and 3rd St. Wednesdays and Saturdays, 7 a.m. to noon · www.duluthfarmersmarket.com Carlton County Farmer’s Market Scanlon, 9 a.m. Saturday until sold out (218) 384-3269

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NORTHERN WILDS August - September 2011

Canoeing and Cocktails Women gone wild in the Boundary Waters By Kate Watson “Spa trips,” chiffon wraps and cocktail hour—hardly the terms you’d expect to be bandied about when discussing Boundary Waters canoe travel. But for one adventuring group of 40- and 50-something women, these indulgent touches are just part of the paddling fun. They call themselves the BWISBs. (More on the name in a minute.) They have been taking canoe trips together for the past twenty years. Their tradition stems back to Minnesota summer camp when they were still in their teens. After numerous childhood summers together, the women scattered across the country and lost touch, but at a camp reunion years later they decided to revisit their childhood adventures. They organized a weeklong canoe trip. The tradition is now two decades strong. “After our first time back out together, we said, ‘Boy, we can do it!’” says Leigh Johnson, one of the founding members of the group. The name is an ode to their humor. They came up with it after their inaugural trip, when they experienced the complications of using the bathroom while wearing onepiece swimsuits. The next year they chose to wear sports bras and shorts instead.

“ “Now we’re gro grown up and w we can bring vvodka in our Nalgenes.” The BWISBs, starting front row left: Tracy Strong of New York, Carol Kelly of Kansas, Leigh Johnson of Minnesota, Lisa Huntting of North Carolina. Back row left: Susie Lauer of Idaho and Carla Stockburger of Montana. | LEIGH JOHNSON

BWISB stands for “Big Women In Sports Bras.” “We decided to honor the sports bra. Big women in sports bras,” Johnson says. “We thought, ‘That’s it, we’ll just be the BWISBs!’” While they certainly know how to have fun, says Bill Hansen, owner of Sawbill Canoe Outfitters in Tofte, the BWISBs are serious campers and canoeists. “They’re amazing, funny, strong independent women, and they’re obviously not afraid to make fun of themselves. They take pretty tough trips and they just have vast enthusiasm for it. They epitomize the spirit of having fun in the wilderness.” The BWISBs were in the vanguard of a growing trend of women journeying into the wilderness, Hansen continues

mid-’70s of professional women doing vacations in the Boundary Waters like the vacations men have been doing forever. Back then, about 90 percent of the people visiting the BWCA were men. Gradually that has changed. Now it’s more like 60 percent men and 40 percent women. Women are seeking out wilderness adventure.”

empowering, I don’t care what age you are. It’s this sense of ‘We can do this, we don’t need boys here!’ We liked that feeling— it’s like being back at camp, but now we’re grown up and we can bring vodka in our Nalgenes.”

Despite the trend, many of Johnson’s acquaintances were initially confounded by the idea of taking a wilderness trip with other women, posing plaintive questions like “Who will take care of your husband and children?” and “Won’t you freeze?” But her family was supportive.

That’s where cocktail hour comes in. The BWISBs enjoy evening cocktail hour (during which they sometimes wear chiffon wraps over their camp clothes) and singing around the campfi re. Some years they fashion their canoe excursions to be what they’ve termed “spa trips,” consisting of base camping with day trips throughout the week.

“Being from an all-girls camp, there’s something about groups of women who have to do it on their own. The trips are

Whether a spa trip or not, the annual outing serves as a soul-refreshing escape for the members of the group.

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NORTHERN WILDS August - September 2011

Colors to Dye For

23

Everyday plants produce rich hues Story and photos by Shelby Gonzalez Long before the concoction of aniline (coal-tar-based) dyes that yield Technicolor hues, people dyed with natural materials gathered in their backyards. Everyday organic materials like plants, wood, mushrooms, roots, bark and lichen can be used to dye ďŹ bers and fabric, producing rich, earthy colors. You probably have a dozen different dyes in your household right now. How about coloring your next knitting project with spinach, coffee grounds, turmeric, sumac berries, nettle, dandelion, carrot tops, beets, pomegranate juice, orange rinds, blackberries or even hedge clippings?

Back to school Last fall, I spent three days at the North House Folk School exploring the art and craft of natural plant dyes under the tutelage of veteran dyer Karen Rognsvoog. She gave the class a head start on the process by bringing in brown paper bags brimming with dried plant material, including grape, sweet fern, marigold, Queen Anne’s lace, purple coneower, buckthorn, rose hips and St. John’s wort. The next step was preparing the dye baths. Armed with garden shears and work gloves to protect our hands from the plants with poky parts, we chopped the colorbearing parts of the plant material into sturdy plastic buckets. Someone shaved curls off a block of osage wood. Someone else crushed a bag of black walnuts. “Careful,â€? Karen warned. “They’ll stain your hands.â€? Such a dye is called a “fugitiveâ€? dye. We labeled the buckets, ďŹ lled them with tap water and set them on a table to soak overnight. We also washed the raw materials we would be dyeing: silk scarves, wool yarn and cotton squares.

Beetle red and birchbark brown While the dyes were steeping, we piled into two cars and drove to public ditches and a big burn pile to gather more material, including birch bark and dogwood.

LEFT: Baskets of dyed yarn show the rainbow of natural dye color possibilities. RIGHT: Participants lift wool yarn from dye kettles to see how the color is taking. “Needs more eye of newt.�

September was late in the season to be harvesting and pickings were slim. August is harvest time for a lot of natural dye plants in the Northern Wilds, like blackberries and blueberries. Back at North House, we poured the bucket contents into big stainless-steel kettles, set the kettles on burners and brought the liquids to a boil. In teams, we poured each kettle’s contents through a strainer to remove the plant material while great clouds of steam billowed up and slicked our faces with moisture. We returned the kettles to the burners and added mordants. Mordants are dye additives that help “openâ€? the ďŹ bers so they will accept dye better, make the dye fade-resistant, and can deepen or alter the dye color. We used only natural mordants: alum, iron, tin and copper (also called blue vitriol), which gives a greenish tint. Colonial-era clothing, Karen explained, was often gray because they dyed clothing in iron pots. To round out our selection of dye colors, we also mixed up a few purchased—but still naturally derived—dyes. One, cochineal (CO-shin-eel), is a pink-red dye that comes from the powdered shell of a tropical beetle. Another, indigo, generates a blue as vivid as an aniline dye but comes from the leaves of the plant Indigofera tinctoria.

Dye It Yourself Books on natural plant dyes abound. Karen recommends Natural Dyeing by Jackie Crook (Lark Books, 2007) and The Craft of Natural Dyeing by Jenny Dean (Search Press, 1994), among others. She will be teaching “Natural Plant Dyes� again on Sept. 30-Oct. 2. See www.northhouse.org for details.

Living color One by one we slipped our skeins, scarves and cotton squares into the pots. The longer you left it in, the richer the color. You could even switch a skein from one color to another to layer the shades. Each time someone disturbed a pot, it released the smell of plant matter and mordant. Leaning over a kettle of bubbling green dye, I felt like a cartoon witch. After the materials absorbed the dye, we ďŹ shed them out with long wooden spoons, rinsed them and draped them over racks to drip dry. “I love this orange.â€? “Look at that pink!â€? Karen pointed out that variable plant potency makes natural dye colors one-time-

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only events. “You’re never going to get the exact same color again.� Most of the dyes yielded muted, earthy shades, as you might expect. Grapevine and tansy (with iron) turned out taupe and sand, respectively. Black walnut was a weak-coffee brown. Some of the dyes were surprisingly bright. Osage orange was like a goldenrod crayon. Logwood was a deep royal purple. My favorite dye, to my surprise, was buckthorn (with copper), which produced a soft sage green.

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24

NORTHERN WILDS August - September 2011

The ULTIMATE Fall Hunt Your mission: sneak up on a refrigerator-sized bruin

years ago in a huge blueberry patch north of Thunder Bay. It was late September, but the temperature felt more like early August. A friend and I were scanning cut-overs, looking for bears feeding on the late blooming berries. My partner had already taken a nice boar in the berries a week or two Now I know better. Bear before, and had seen several hunting is one of the most excitother really big ones as well. ing and challenging pursuits a BY GORD ELLIS You can fi nd bears feeding hunter will ever undertake. in the open wherever there You can get that thrill from a tree-stand is abundant natural food. Blueberry cuts, hunt, but if you want to know what it’s like cornfields and old apple orchards all have to match wits with a predator on its own bear potential. turf, try stalking bear. There is a mix of As the daylight waned, we spotted an excitement and primal fear when stalkenormous black bear striding out of a black ing a bruin that’s unlike any other hunt in spruce swamp into a cut that was glowing North America. If you don’t get pumped blue with berries. The bear was moving at trying to sneak up on a refrigerator-sized a rapid pace and was about 250 yards away. bruin, buddy, you can’t be breathing. It seemed unaware of us and disappeared My first real bear stalk took place two down the back of a hill. With rifle tightly in hand, I headed in. for all your The bear was not visible as several dips and rises obneeds... scured the view. The walking was rough, it was gett (VOT t "SDIFSZ t &RVJQNFOU ting dark and the bugs were t 'JSFBSN 5SBOTGFST off the charts. It felt like the t 5SFF 4UBOET bear was going to suddenly t "DDFTTPSJFT appear in my face. My heart was beating so hard I could hear it in my throat.

The gun went up, and the 9 power scope found the bear’s shoulder.

About 150 yards in, I topped a rise and saw the big boar feeding in a berry patch. It looked about the size of a Volkswagen Beetle.

The rest of the experience is a blur, but stalking up on my downed bear was one of the more gut-wrenching things I’ve ever done. However, the 180-grain bullets had done their work. It was a huge beast and

As a young man growing up in Northwestern Ontario, my opinion of black bears was pretty dim. Everyone I knew considered them vermin and not worth hunting. Bears, I was told, were inedible and “stunk” as they only lived in dumps. Most deer and moose hunters considered hunting bear beneath them.

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weighed in excess of 400 pounds. Its pelt was a thick ebony and it smelled like the woods. A simply gorgeous creature. That bear was absolutely stuffed with berries and had been feasting for days, if not weeks. I am also happy to report that the meat was as tender and tasty as the fi nest deli pork.

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Bear hunting has only increased the admiration and respect I have for these great animals. They are perfectly suited to the north woods and are a cunning quarry. Ontario has a healthy and growing population of these animals and the harvest is well-managed. If you want to try a truly thrilling hunt, stalking bears is a good place to start.

NORTHERN WILDS August - September 2011

25

The King of the Lake Chinook salmon are best described as “locomotives with fins.” Charlie Urhammer of Hovland, an Ahab of the inland sea, seeks salmon along the Ontario shoreline southwest of Thunder Bay.

By Shawn Perich Recently, I listened to a friend’s tale about the salmon that got away. As my friend put it, the moral of the story was, “That’s why they call them kings.” Swimming in Lake Superior is a Pacific salmon introduced 40 years ago when native fish stocks were depleted from the onetwo punch of industrial fishing and the invasion of parasitic sea lampreys via the St. Lawrence Seaway. Known as the Chinook or king salmon, its population expanded during the 1980s as it fi lled a void in the lake’s predator base. In September, streams along the North Shore were stuffed with spawning salmon topping 20 pounds, which attracted hordes of eager anglers. As quickly as the salmon population expanded, it began declining during the 1990s as fish managers successfully restored native lake trout in Lake Superior. Today the salmon occupy much a smaller niche in the big lake and the population is primarily supported by natural spawning in large tributary rivers. Today’s kings are smaller and not as common, but remain a highly prized catch. Trollers typically catch kings during the few weeks when the summer sun warms

the icy lake’s surface water. Even then, salmon action is happenstance. Just because salmon are swimming beneath you doesn’t mean they are willing to bite. But when they do, look out! A king is best described as a locomotive with fins. Once hooked, even small kings make long, powerful runs—just like a runaway locomotive. Bringing one to the boat is inevitably a lengthy battle that doesn’t end until the salmon is in the landing net. The average summertime king weighs from 3 to 8 pounds, although they may run somewhat larger in Canadian waters. You may also catch larger ones when they make their September spawning run into tributaries—again in Canada. Regardless their size, kings are terrific table fare. So how can you get in on the action? Trolling on Lake Superior can be effective in August and September, especially if you go fishing around dawn and dusk. During September, kings start to congregate near river mouths in preparation for their spawning run. They enter the streams when autumn rains raise river levels, usually during the latter half of the month. In Minnesota, the salmon run is negligible, but good numbers go up the Wolf, Black Sturgeon and Nipigon Rivers in Ontario.

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Charter Fishing If you don’t own a boat or are new to Lake Superior fishing, consider a day charter. Charter services are available at every North Shore port and are relatively inexpensive. Charter captains have the know-how and equipment to catch Superior’s trout and salmon. Some captains prefer to target the more-numerous lake trout, so if you want to catch salmon, be sure to tell the captain when you book your charter. While walk-ons are possible, most captains are booked during the prime summer fishing season, so plan ahead. If you want to learn about Lake Superior fishing, spending time on the water with a charter captain is the best way to do so. Most are happy to share their fishing knowledge with customers and to show you how to use trolling gear.

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NORTHERN WILDS August - September 2011

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Despite the term “doggy paddle,” not every canine is a strong swimmer. If you plan to take your dog on a canoe trip or water-related adventure, you might want to invest in a life jacket. Ruff Wear makes all manner of dog gear, and the quality and function of their dog life jackets is solid. The highlighted feature is the positioning of the flotation cells, which cause your dog to float horizontally in the water, making swimming natural and easy. Ruff Wear’s dog life jackets are offered in two styles, the Portage Float Coat and the beefed-up version, the Big Eddy Float Coat. The Portage (MSRP $49.95) reviewed here, comes in sizes XXS to XL. The life jacket is fully adjustable with two buckling belly straps and a buckle and Velcro tab around the neck. The top of the life jacket has a handle for plucking your pup from the water and a D-ring for attaching a leash. The portage is offered in both bright green and orange with reflective taping for better visibility both in the water and out. More information at www. ruffwear.com. –Kate Watson

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We all know we are supposed to be drinking more water, but unless you’re sitting at your desk or riding in a car, it can be a real pain to carry that jug around. Enter the Go Caddy. This microfiber bag lets you tote water along on walks, shopping excursions, sports events, seminars and any other place you need to stay hydrated. It can handle a variety of bottle sizes up to 1.5 liters. The long, adjustable strap makes it easy to change length for wearing it over your shoulder or across your body sling-style. It also has additional pockets. One dual pocket is pleated and closes with a secure Velcro fl ap. This space is ideal for notes, credit cards, money and license/identification.The other pocket is elastic and works well for easy-to-grab items like a cell phone, or glasses. There’s even a metal clip for your keys or your hat. The only thing I disliked about the Go Caddy was the roughness of the Velcro on my hand when I would reach into the pocket to grab something. Other than that, it was a great size and held all the items I needed with me. MSRP $19.99. Details at www.bvtproducts.com. -Amber Pratt

Magic Cool Personal Cooling Cloth Even near Lake Superior, there are days in the summer when keeping cool outdoors is an unavoidable priority. So when we received a Magic Cool Personal Cooling Cloth by Grabber at a trade show, I couldn’t wait to give it a try. The neat thing about this cloth is that you just add water – no refrigerating or freezing needed. As long as the Magic Cool fabric is damp, it stays cool to the touch. This was great for cooling off after my morning run and to soothe the sore muscles in my back. When I fi nished using it, I would just hang it to dry and it was ready the next time I needed it. At 15 by 25 inches, the cloth is a good size for packing along in a backpack, bag or purse. It comes with a fastener so you can attach it to your bag to dry. This product can be purchased at a number of retailers in the Northern Wilds. MSRP $15.99. More information at www.grabberworld.com -Amber Pratt

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NORTHERN WILDS August - September 2011

Staci Drouillard’s Cilantro Pesto Butter 2-3 cups chopped fresh cilantro 3-4 chopped green onions 2 cloves garlic, chopped Fresh lime juice (at least one lime) Olive oil Chopped fresh jalapenos, to taste Salt and pepper 1/2 pound softened butter Put cilantro in a food processor with green onions, garlic, lime juice and process well, until it’s a paste. Drizzle a little olive oil into the mixture and then add chopped jalapeno, salt and pepper to taste. Put softened butter into a bowl and add the cilantro mixture. Mix well and let sit for an hour or so before using fresh to blend the flavors. To freeze, fill ice-cube trays with mixture until frozen. Store cubes in freezer bags until ready to use.

Potluck Squash This recipe was shared by a potter who made this for a potluck after a successful firing at Dick Cooter’s kiln in Two Harbors. 1 good-sized winter squash, buttercup or turban variety 1/4 cup butter 1 red pepper, chopped Grated cheddar cheese Salt and pepper Heat oven to 350 degrees. Cut out a lid from the top of the squash. Remove seeds and inner membrane, put in 2 tablespoons of butter, a little salt and pepper, replace cap and bake until squash is cooked. Remove from oven and carefully scoop out flesh into a bowl, making sure to keep the outer shell intact. Add the rest of the butter, red pepper, and salt and pepper to the bowl and mix well. Put back in shell and top with grated cheese. Bake until the cheese is bubbly and browned, about 30 minutes. You can run it quickly under a broiler at the end to crisp the cheese. Replace lid and serve. This is always a favorite at potlucks. The red pepper is just incredible in the squash. Some have suggested adding green chilis to the mix, which would add another layer of flavor.

27

Taste the Harvest We reap what we sow in August and September, and they can be the most exhilarating months of the year for gardeners. I write this with my fi ngers and toes crossed, however—no harvest is guaranteed up here in the Northern Wilds.

the Accidental

Gardener

BY JOAN FARNAM

If our soil was in great condition… If it rained or we had a good source of water… If we planted varieties that do well in northern climes…

If we tended, weeded and top-dressed until the plants were so healthy they kept diseases at bay and insects couldn’t keep up… …then it’s almost unbelievable how much we can grow in the summer months. This year, we had a cold spring that lasted well into June and everyone who didn’t have a green house was wondering if they’d even get a tomato or winter squash. There was very late patchy frost a few nights, too, deadly to baby bean plants. But then summer arrived with a bang. Suddenly there were 70-degree days and balmy nights, and vegetable gardens were transformed overnight. I was shocked one morning, for example, to realize that I had planted my onions too close together. For two months, the bed looked great – there was plenty of room between the plants – but one morning I went out there and it looked like they had doubled in size overnight, and I had a big problem with overcrowding. Exciting times, no doubt about that.

The author’s garden in August, growing like crazy with the harvest not far away.

There are lots of great books out there that talk about how to safely can tomatoes or how to store winter squash so it lasts through February. A few titles include The Ball Blue Book Guide to Preserving, which covers all the ins-and-outs of canning, Dry It, You’ll Like It, by Gen MacManiman, the ultimate source on drying foods, and Root Cellaring: Natural Cold Storage of Fruits & Vegetables by Mike and Nancy Bubel.

The feasting on peas and green beans, tomatoes and peppers fresh out of the garden is such a perk for our labor, but at some point, we realize that it sure would be great to be able to save some of what we grow for the winter months. That’s when another set of skills comes into play: canning, freezing and drying. Home preservation is a growing trend in the state these days as more and more people put in vegetable gardens, said Diane Booth, Cook County Extension agent. “I had 21 people take home preservation classes this year,” she said. Requests for information keep coming in.

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NORTHERN WILDS August - September 2011

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Northern Wilds Goes West In July, we (Northern Wilds publishers Shawn Perich and Amber Pratt) attended the annual conference of the Outdoor Writers Association of America at Snowbird Resort in Utah. Our intent was to mingle with and learn from our peers and to breathe some fresh mountain air. All aspects of the trip were a success. The three-day conference was packed with activities, including a keynote address about the emerging “locavore” movement by Hank Shaw, who operates the popular blog Hunter Angler Gardener Cook. We picked up a few tips from his presentation and you can expect to see more on feeding yourself in future issues of Northern Wilds. The conference also included hands-on demonstrations of outdoor gear and shooting equipment. Amber, who has minimal shooting experience, proved to be a natural Annie Oakley. As for fresh mountain air, we found time to hike in the Wasatch Range. Amber and her family also visited Antelope Island on the Great Salt Lake. In fact, we left for home wishing we had more time to explore Utah’s wonderful outdoor recreation opportunities.

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Bradley C Jenson 26, Country Inn & Suites 4, Dunn Bros Coffee 20, Fond-DuLuth Casino 4, Minnesota Logger Education Program 17, Permit to Carry 24, Stonegate on Superior 6, Sustainable Forestry 2, Yarn Harbor 23 Ely/Range Cities Boundary Waters College 19, Conservationists with Common Sense 12, Frontier Log Railings 26, North American Bear Center 27, Piragis 22, Raven Productions 29 Grand Marais Anderson Aero 16, Buck’s Hardware Store 25, Chik-Wauk 19, George Maruska 17, Golden Eagle Lodge 32, Grand Marais Art Colony 6, Grand Marais State Bank 8, Gunflint Pines 21, Joyne’s Ben Franklin 4, Lake Superior Rock Lamps 12, The Landing 7, Loon’s Nest Gift Shop 21, Municipal Pool 18, My Sister’s Place 26, Recreation Areas 6, Sawbill Canoe

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NORTHERN WILDS August - September 2011

29

Book Reviews

Following The Last Wild Wolves Ian McAllister

GREYSTONE BOOKS, $19.95

By Deane Morrison UNIVERSITY OF MINNESOTA STARWATCH

Every now and then, an author comes along who gives conventional wisdom a gentle nudge and causes us to look at the natural world in a new way. Ian McAllister, a naturalist who has observed and photographed the daily life British Columbia’s coastal wolves for 20 years, provides a lucid view of these fascinating, family-oriented animals. Importantly, he suggests the ancient relationship between man and wolves was much closer than the antagonistic (on the part of humans) relationship we have today. In his work, wolf packs came to recognize and accept him near their den sites and feeding areas. He also found coastal wolves often locate their dens in the remains of ancient native villages, perhaps suggesting an ancient symbiosis. We may have forgotten this relationship, he suggests, and wolves are waiting for us to remember it. —Shawn Perich

Brandy & Summer Wine Bill McDonald

BOREALIS PRESS $18.95

Imagine a poetry society in Thunder Bay comprised of quirky poets from all walks of life. Then imagine a published anthology of poems from the Bell, Book & Candle Poetry Club of Thunder Bay. With his tongue firmly placed in cheek, this is what author Bill McDonald has done in Brandy & Summer Wine. This reviewer doesn’t know Thunder Bay well enough to fully appreciate the sharp satire, but suspect those who do know the city may find a few inside jokes within the pages. —Shawn Perich

David Thompson A Life of Adventure and Discovery Elle Andra-Warner

David Thompson was an extraordinary explorer and geographer who mapped much of western Canada and was the first European to navigate the entire Columbia River. Anyone interested in the history of the fur trade will find this book especially interesting, because it makes the connection between the trading posts of the western interior and the fur routes passing through northern Lake Superior. As always, the author’s concise writing style delivers an incredible amount of information in an easy to read format.—Shawn Perich.

August - September: Sturgeon Moon and “False Dawn” The end of summer brings the laid-back water constellations into the evening sky and gives us our last good look at the stars of Scorpius and Sagittarius. Those two constellations move from south to southwest during August and September. Scorpius, slithering across the southern horizon, leads Sagittarius and its starry Teapot toward their seasonal oblivion.

Moonless mornings in August and September are the times to look for the elusive zodiacal light. This broad, fi ngerlike glow points up from the eastern horizon along the sun’s path between about one and two hours before sunrise. Called the “false dawn” in the “Rubaiyat” of Omar Khayyam, it is caused by sunlight reflecting off dust in the plane of the solar system.

During both months, the Summer Triangle August’s bigsoars in the south. gest show— It comprises the Perseid Deneb in Cygnus, meteors—will the swan, and be a flop this Vega in Lyra, the year, thanks lyre, both very to a nearly full high, and Altair in moon washing Aquila, the eagle, In August and September, Mars glides through Gemini out all but the the lowermost and into Cancer. brightest metepoint of the trianors. The showgle. Below Altair is dim, chevron-shaped er peaks the night of Aug. 12-13. That full Capricornus, the sea goat. moon shines the next night. Algonquin Moving eastward we fi nd the spidery Indians called it the sturgeon moon, for the form of Aquarius, the water carrier, and, iconic Great Lakes fish that is most easily underneath the Great Square of Pegasus, caught this time of year. September’s full the Circlet of Pisces, the fish. In the west, moon is the harvest moon, lighting our brilliant Arcturus pulls kite-shaped Bootes, way on the night of Sept. 11-12. Fall arrives with the autumnal equinox at 4:05 the herdsman, down toward the horizon. a.m. on Sept. 23. In the predawn sky, Mars appears The University of Minnesota Duluth ofever higher in the east, gliding straight through Gemini and into Cancer, end- fers public viewings of the night sky at the ing September at the edge of the beautiful Marshall W. Alworth Planetarium. For more information and viewing schedules, Beehive star cluster. see www.d.umn.edu/planet.

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NORTHERN WILDS August - September 2011

INVASION! CANADA CLAIMS ISLE ROYALE. AUGUST 5, 1907 Rogue Captain Raises British Flag Over U.S. Island. PORT ARTHUR— In August 1907, front-page headlines filled newspapers across United States with the news that Isle Royale on Lake Superior had been "seized" by Canadians. The Chicago Tribune proclaimed “Gasoline Launch Seizes U.S. Isle: Canadian officer leads band of Patriots on Voyage of Conquest,� while the New York Times headline read “British Flag

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for Canada, despite having no actual government authority to do so.

Up on U.S. Island: Capt. Young Raises It Over Isle Royale He Claims for Canada.� At various times over the past 300-plus years, three countries had claimed Isle Royale, starting with the French, who named the island in 1671 in honour of King Louis XIV. Later it was British territory, until Benjamin Franklin snagged it for America in the 1793 Treaty of Paris. The island was defined as Chippewa Territory until 1842 when the Ojibwe ceded it to the U.S. federal government. In 1940, Isle

ated near the bre a th t akin ls g Kak abeka Fal

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Royale National was established.

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Although it is part of Michigan, Isle Royale is less than 20 miles from Canada’s northern shore. Even today, many Canadians don’t hesitate to remark that Isle Royale should be Canadian, not American. But other than quietly grumble, Canadians haven’t taken any action to right this supposed wrong—except in 1907. That’s when a group of armed compatriots, led by Captain Samuel C. Young of the 96th Lake Superior Regiment, left Canada in a “naptha launch,� headed to the northeastern part of Isle Royale, planted a Union Jack there and claimed the island back

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Young told reporters he did it for the “purpose of opening correspondence between Ottawa and Washington,� which he felt would show the “great injustice to Canada by the agreement that gave Isle Royale to United States.� He said the island was north of the 49th parallel (the international boundary) and therefore the island rightfully belonged to Canada. Just who was Samuel Crawford Young? He came with some pretty good credentials. A prominent 42-year-old businessman in Fort William (now part of Thunder Bay), Young was a partner in a successful real estate and insurance company. He was one of the city’s greatest promoters, served on numerous boards, founded a golf course, advocated tourism and immigration, and was an optimist known as a “man of both ideas and actions.� Within days of Young’s armed run to Isle Royale, the American papers were discounting the incident. On Aug. 6,

the New York Times reported, “No further attention will be paid by the State Department to opera bouffe efforts‌ to involve this country in a diplomatic controversy with Canada.â€? The Chicago Tribune’s front page proudly declared, “Isle Royale not seized; Old Glory Still Waves,â€? noting the Canadian “filibustersâ€? had given up. No charges were laid, and while some applauded Young, others laughed at the fiasco, suggesting Young and his group had been “in the cupsâ€? (drinking). About 18 months later, on March 9, 1909, the New York Times reported that “Isle Royale in Lake Superior has just been purchased by American interests from an English syndicate‌ The largest island in the fresh water in the world has reverted to American ownership through the diplomacy of business and without probably the knowledge of Washington.â€? The paper noted that IRLC had owned the “entire islandâ€? with two small exceptions. The new owner was United States Steel Corporation; its attorney was Duluth’s Oscar Larson (who went on to become America’s first

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Perhaps it is a coincidence that at the time Young planted the British f lag on Isle Royale, most of the island was owned by a British company, Isle Royale Land Corporation (IRLC). The company had established the mining community Haytown at the foot of Pickett Bay (population 135) and had vigorously, but unsuccessfully, tried to operate the Wendigo Copper Company. In 1892 they ceased mining and began selling its land for tourist homes and resorts. It would be sheer speculation to suggest a connection between real estate titan Young and the British company that owned Isle Royale, but it does give an intriguing twist to an already-strange footnote in Isle Royale history.

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Four years after his armed invasion, Young was elected mayor of Fort William. Later, he became a colonel, served in France during the First World War, and, in 1934, was appointed an Ontario magistrate. He died in 1936 at age 70.

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31

An Old-Time Trapper’s Lunch “Nobody ever died from eating a few mouse turds”

Mike Kelly was a crookedarmed old man who lived about ten miles from Ely, close to Birch Lake Dam. He was a good friend of my greatgrandfather, Bill La Beau.

automobile, but he never quite got the hang of it. One day he tried to put the black beast in reverse and ended up going through the front wall of the garage instead.

Mike fell out of a tree once That ended it for Bill La Beau and automobiles. From when a black bear ran him out then on, whenever Bill La of a blueberry patch and up a Beau visited any of his old white pine. On the way down, friends, he went with a horse Kelly slipped and fell. He tried and buggy. to break his fall, and ended up IRON MIKE HILLMAN breaking his left arm. It was That’s how my father came a long way to town, so rather to have lunch with Mike Kelly. Young than going to the doctor, Mike Kelly set Chester Hillman thought it was grand the arm himself. It never healed right. to accompany his grandfather on his visThat’s how it got crooked. its because the old man let him take hold

Campfire Stories

My dad, Chester loved to tag along with his grandfather, Bill La Beau, whenever he went to visit one of his old settler friends – a ragtag assortment of characters who came north and west when the frontier moved to Minnesota. Like many men who grew up with horses, Bill La Beau tried to keep up with the times by buying a Chevrolet

of the reigns and drive the buggy. It took a long time getting out to Mike Kelly’s shack where Birch Lake empties into the Kawishiwi River. Before they went, Bill La Beau made sure his daughter Cora packed a basket full of jams and sweet preserves for his old friend. Like many of the men living alone in the woods, Mike Kelly

would just about sell his soul for a jar of homemade jelly.

pork fat over the potatoes and bannock on all three plates.

On one of those trips, Mike Kelly insisted they join him for supper. Chester watched as the crooked-armed trapper got down a slab of salt pork greened up with age and sliced off a few slabs. Then the old man boiled up some potatoes about as old as Chester.

“You can’t eat until you got some of the gravy, boy,” the old man said with a smile. Chester swallowed hard and ate his supper, every bit of it.

As if that weren’t enough, Mike Kelly scooped out some black-flecked flour into an old wooden mixing bowl. Chester gulped, he realizing the black specks were mouse droppings. Mike Kelly smiled as he added water to make a two-inch-thick pancake the old-timers call bannock.

“Don’t be stupid, boy,” answered Bill La Beau. “Mike Kelly put on his best spread for us. If it was just Mike, he would have had one thing for his supper. Mike gave you a three-course trapper’s lunch in honor of our visit.” He looked over at his grandson and said, “I’m proud of you for eating your supper. Lots of boys would have made a fuss about the mouse turds.”

The salt pork was cooked, the potatoes were boiled, and before Chester knew it, his plate was fi lled with one spud, three pieces of green bacon, and a generous wedge of bannock. Just before the three men dived into supper, Mike Kelly limped over to the stove, grabbed the cast-iron skillet, and poured a generous helping of

On the way home, he worked up the courage to ask his grandfather if Mike Kelly ate like that all the time.

He smiled and added, “Nobody ever died from eating a few mouse turds. They help keep a fellow regular.”

Discover our great indoors After a day of exploring Thunder Bay’s scenic beauty you’ll appreciate the exceptional amenities of the Valhalla Inn, Northwestern Ontario’s largest premier full service hotel. From the comforts of our newly renovated rooms and suites to the relaxation of our pool, sauna & spas - you’ll know you’ve made the right choice.

Discover the summer value of the Valhalla Inn. The longer you stay the more you save!

Secure Motorcycle Parking Available

1 day $119/day 2 days $109/day 3 days $99/day Must be consecutive days. Blackouts apply. Standard rooms only. Tuesdays & Wednesdays are not available. New Reservations only.

Rooms from

$

99

1 Valhalla Inn Rd, Thunder Bay, ON t 807-577-1121

For Reservations Call Toll-Free1-800-964-1121

32

NORTHERN WILDS August - September 2011

Day Trips Around Flour Lake www.GunintCanoeing.com

t ¡ www.Golden-Eagle.com www.GunflintCamping.com ¡ www.FlourLake.com ¡ www.GunflintCanoeing.com

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