AIM Magazine by Amelia Krzapa

FASHION

TALKS•STORIES•LOOKBOOK•EDITORIALS• ESSENTIALS•TIPS

AIM

MAGAZINE

Issue 1 January 2018

EVERYTHING EVERYWHERE EVERYDAY

n e t n o C 13

139

Ewa and Her “Feathery Dress”

01-12

Mirror Shooting/ Balenciaga F/W

13-32

Is Streetwear on Top Today?

33-52

A Model Whose Career Started On a Train Station

53-58

Julia Banas - From Czestochowa To New York

59-66

2017 FDC Young Fashion Designer Award

67-70

What Does Fashion Mean To You?

71-72

Rethinking waste - Sanderman

73-86

Jan Philip Kosfeld

87-98

Lian Cara

99-108

Alexandria Chantiluke

109-116

Dress Code Decoded

117-118

t 207 153 #Broken Heart

119-138

A Photographer Who Paints - A Painter Who Photographs

139-152

A Great Fashion Photograph

153-162

The King Of Temptations - Tips On How To Be a Fashionable Man 163-168 Fashion Psychology

169-172

Kim Kardashian Look - Body Shapes in the eyes of R. Ferguson

173-176

Autumn Editorial

177-188

Neon Editorial

189-198

Portrait Photography

199-206

From Rollerblades to Garments

207-216

Fashion Movies Reviews

217-218

Photoshoot Inspired by Viviane Sassen

219-226

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Amelia

Krzapa

DESIGN Amelia (with

Krzapa

help

from

Emma

Michalcova)

PHOTOGRAPHERS Jakub

Kazmierczyk

Ester

Mejibovski

Wojciech

Grabowski

CONTACT Amelia

krzapa

ameliakrzapa@gmail.com 07751819680

THE

EDITOR’S

LETTER

Welcome to the first issue of A I M MAGAZINE which is entirely dedicated to fashion. Coco Chanel said once “Fashion is not something that exists in dresses only. Fashion is in the sky, in the street; fashion has to do with ideas, the way we live, what is happening.” When I think of fashion, first thing that comes to my mind is a chic woman wearing a dress from Dior. However, I treat fashion as a form of art that we use to express oureslves. We get dress everyday. Based on our mood, our subconsciousness tells us what to wear.That’s how I see it. Fashion does not have one definition. A I M MAGAZINE is a place where you will read not only about beautifully made, sophisticated, and flattering garments.You will find a number of amazing creative personalities and their stories.You will discover that fashion is not only about clothing from the famous designers.You will meet here models, fashion designers, photographers and many other people from the industry. The A I M of this magazine is to give a reason to understand that fashion is everywhere with everyone, in different ways. While working on the content I have realised how diverse the creative industry of fashion is, how many undiscovered talents surround us and how fascinating lives they have. As this is the first issue of my magazine, I would really appreciate the feedback form you as A I M ‘s first readers. I must admit that I am a perfectionist, so I would like to improve this magazine as much as I can, because I believe that it is worth doing well. At the end, I would like to acknowledge everyone who supported me while working on my first magazine ever. I would like to point out Jakub Kazmierczyk for his help, support, and amazing pictures.

AKrzapa

Ewa

and

Her

“Feathery

Dress”

WHEN I MET EWA AT HER FABU-

LOUS FLAT IN WARSAW, she was wearing a simple black dress with a gold zipper. The smile on her face was surrounding me with a positive energy. When I step into her kingdom I felt like in a fairytale. Pink and purple furniture, colourful paintings on the walls and small princes sitting on the couch. This was Ewa’s little cute daughter. Everything was esthetically matching. It is just a perfect artistic flat of a queen of Luxury and Art Fashion.

Ewa was born in a small town. That is why neither her parents nor Ewa thought that she can make a lifetime career there. She kept designing as a hobby and went to study something that might be well paid in the future. So it happened, she graduated from the The story begins in 1990. I was in primary Medical Academy. Anyways, she doesn’t work in a hospital. Her life turned to be totally school and I was in love with the art. My different. She born a child. While being on a mum and I were both fascinated by fashion maternity leave she was, obviously, involved and sewing.When I was little, with the help in parenting. However, she was doing what of my mum I was creating my own dresses. she has always loved - painting, drawing, designing new projects and sewing. Her husAfter that, I was making my clothes myband, Adrian, realised that fashion design is self. Ever since I remember I have always something that she really loves. attended the parties in my dresses or the Adrian has always supported me in what I was clothes I had changed myself. doing and it was giving me the power to continue with my passion. One day, my husband came At the very beginning of her career, she took to me saying that there is a fashion competition part in a competition, organised by the mag- and the deadline is tonight.You can do it. He azine “Dziewczyna” (“The girl”) for an evesaid. I had just a few hours to draw a project ning dress. Her extraordinary project won. and send it to the jury. I made four projects that opened a new path for me. This is the first time I am saying The awards ceremony of the Young Fashion that, but I realised that my dress Day III took place in Community Centre in Kielce. Ewa was honoured for her “Black was inspired by a cartoon “The Perl” collection. That was her first serious Jetsons”. Yes, I really think that haute couture collection. Ewa Kyrcz, a fashion designer, and an amazing artist. The owner of the brand Ewa Kyrcz Luxury&Art Fashion. She has been working in the fashion industry for a couple of years. She made her debut in 2013 but before that, she had been making her own projects.

was it.

Ewa posted some pictures of those dresses on Facebook. It boosted her opportunities in fashion design. More and more people were interested in collaborating with Ewa so her dresses were taking part in many photo shoots. She has become a very famous fashion designer. She was continuously making new projects. Her willingness to design new clothes was growing with every new dress. Then came the day that Ewa showed her key project, an amazing wedding dress, named “feathery dress”. This dress delight everyone. Sensitivity, fairness, and strength - this dress connote me these words

Ewa is in love with birds. She has always been inspired by them that is why she paints them a lot. This dress was also inspired by birds. Ewa told me how hard it was to start with this dress. She was sewing it during days and nights. Every element had to be sewed separately. As the dress is huge it was a real hornet’s nest. This dress is not made by the real father as it would cost her a fortune. She has been looking for a similar material and she finally decided to sew it from the pieces of netting. This dress took part in many photo shoots, was published in magazines such as: Moreover, a photographer from Poznan, Igor Drozdowski made a video “ Facing time” with a falcon, old American car and a model in this dress. This video won a contest, organised by Vogue Italy and Swatch. This video was shown at the exhibition in New York, Milan, and Shanghai.

Model: Patrycja Laufer Photo: Igor Drozdowski Hair: Sergiusz Pawlak MUA: Makijażownia - Agnieszka Nowak

DRESS: Ewa Kyrcz Luxury& Art Fashion

“For me, birds are the symbols of freedom.

Ewa betrayed the secret she is collecting real feathers now so I expect a feathery surprise soon. She is planning to organise another fashion show. Although, it is not easy as it requires a lot of work. And today Ewa is very busy sewing for her private clients, her little cute daughter and for the boutique with kids clothes.

Their colours, their plumageâ&#x20AC;Ś They are beautiful.â&#x20AC;?

For:Bisous Magazine Hair/MUA: Anna Leska, Patryk Nadolny DRESS: Ewa Kyrcz Luxury& Art Fashion

Model: Martyna Molenda Photo: Grzegorz Szafruga Hair: Martyna Przybylo DRESS: Ewa Kyrcz Luxury& Art Fashion

Model: Monika Kowalik Photo: Magdalena Tarach - Haladyn MUA: Ewa Paczynska Dress: Ewa Kyrcz Luxury& Art Fashion

Model: Karolina Kolodzicka Photo: Artur Cieslakowski MUA/Hair: Kasia Demale Stylist: Serafin Zielinski Dress: Ewa Kyrcz Luxury& Art Fashion

MIRROR

SHOOTING

INSPIRED

BALENCIAGA

FALL/WINTER

2016

Amelia Krzapa @kszompa

Model Julia Sokolowska @juliasokolowska_

Photographer Jakub Kazmierczyk @jakub.kazmierczyk

Collaborators

M a n a g e r / M UA / S t y l i s t

F/W 2016 Balenciaga editorial. This collection was full of long checked jackets, leathery jackets, oversize sweaters, flared coats and unsubstantial colourful dresses. Moreover, peaked high heels and wedges in different colours. Multicolor Striped Oversized Tote Bags were perfect supplements to those amazing clothes. F/W 2016 editorial was made by the British photographer, Mark Borthwick. He created an amazing shooting with the clothing from Balenciaga. The pictures were mostly made outside on a bright wall. However, there was one particular picture, from the F/W 16 editorial, that drew my attention. The picture that shows the model wearing Balenciaga red down jacket. And the mirror that inspired me to organise this shooting.

We worked in a team of three. There was me, who did the makeup and styling, Julia Sokolowska - our model, who is only seventeen and has already been in India to work for many different brands. When I found her on Facebook I knew she was going to be my model for this shooting. Her face is exceptional, her look was the one I needed. We wouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t do the photoshoot without the photographer - Jakub Kazmierczyk who is irreplaceable so I was sure the pictures were going to be fantastic. Amelia

Krzapa

Julia

Sokolowska

I must say that this photoshoot was awesome, the atmosphere was lovely. I felt very comfortable as I really like this kind of makeup and clothes that I was supposed to wear. I knew that the pictures will end up nicely. However, they turned up incredible! I couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t believe it was me in the images. I couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t believe my eyes. I must admit that it was one of the best photoshoots in my career.

Jakub

Kazmierczyk

The keynote of this shooting was a mirror that we used in different ways. I reckon that this idea was bullâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s eye as I could use different angles and work on different reflections. We thought about taking pictures of a model staying at the mirror but we would probably have it in pieces after that. During this photoshoot I was using different lighting. I used selective lighting a lot, so the cyclorama vanished in the shadow. However, I also took some portraits when the light was directed in front of the modelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s face. The shooting was short and sweet. We did everything in three hours, including makeup, stylings changing and setting up all the equipment. Amelia was managing everything, Julia was posing and I was pressing the shutter button. When it comes to equipment, I used Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark II camera with 12-40 mm f/2.8 PRO lens. I really like this kit as it is fast, perfectly detects face and sharpens the image automatically. Moreover, the camera was attached to the computer so I could see every picture on the Eizo CG2420 screen. What is important is lightning. I used Profoto lights - B1 and B1X. I also used Deep Umbrella Silver XL and Deep Umbrella White M to have a variety of lighting.

CA N

BE AL SO

TH E F LO OR .

STREETWEAR

TOP

TODAY?

Models: Wiktoria Dróżdż, Amelia Krzapa, Koziarz Patryk, Szymon Walasek, Wojciech Kopczkowski Photographer: Paulina Hanzel Clothes: Gypsy Rags & Vestures

Gypsy

Rags

Vestures

We are for those who love, care, respect and remember. We are the family. We

are

gypsy.

A streetwear brand set during one evening by the group of friends. They do not make dresses for a red carpet. This brand was developed to highlight the gypsy fraternity values, commitment to members of a family. T O D A Y, Gypsy Rags & Vestures, O R I G I N A L L Y “Gypsy King” The brand makers are sometimes identified with the real gypsies. To clarify, their style is gypsy, the high-quality products are relevant to the luxury and wealth, but they are not gypsies. The Gypsy brand treads a fine line between presumption and controversialism. They do not follow the latest trends. We are for those who are not afraid of confrontation, for those who look for their place. We would like to create a movement in the fashion industry. We look for people, in our society, who are willing to join our family. They are very close to their clients. They keep in touch with them to get them know better, to see what they like, what they do and what they need. That’s an amazing thing though. They are open for everyone. We would like to give something more than just a piece of fabric. We would like to give ourselves in this projects. Graphic design is something that was with them from the very beginning. They have made loads of graphics already that they use in their clothing projects. These little pictures make the brand original. 36

C O L L E CT I O N S They have already created five collections: “Covers”, “Why You Golf?”, “Plata O Plomo”, “Simple” and “Midas touch”. Each of them is totally different.

THE PROCESS The whole process of making a collection is usually complicated and requires a lot of time and hard work. The Gypsy family explained me the whole process of making their collection. At the very beginning, we try not to kill each other. We are trying to sort out our ideas. First, comes the inspiration. They say that they are inspired by culture, art, and everyday life. For example, the collection “Plata O Plomo” was created in order to their fascination of Pablo Escobar. Why is that? Because he has always put his family in the first place and he was taking care of others, so the Gypsy family do. What do they do next? They look for proper fabrics and accessories. Make a pattern and sew a sample. After that, they create a pro model and print the graphics on it. They admitted that their ideas change from time to time, the collection is changeable as a weathercock. That’s what happened with their latest collection. The plan was to add the pictures from the ‘90s but the final graphics were completely different. This collection was made in pastel colours what makes it totally different from other collections. This one shows the reality in the relationships, nowadays. People are going crazy because of this collection.

Everything is constantly changing. The fashion and style are relative. You never know what is going to happen in this industry. Will streetwear be seen on the red carpet too?

For keep

now,

the

working

native,

Gypsy

family

their

eye-drawing

imagi-

clothes.

Models: Koziarz Patryk, Kornelia Groworek Photographer: Paulina Hanzel Clothes: Gypsy Rags & Vestures

Photographer: Matt Liu Make up artist: Christopher Wong Styling:@bakumk

MODEL:Piotr Wozniak PHOTOGRAPHER:Lima

Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;man

ASSISTANT: Tuiara Vinokurova MAKE UP ARTIST:Ilya

Gordeev

PRODUCER:@krystal_si

A M O D E L W H O S E CA R E E R HA S STA RT E D O N A T RA I N STAT I O N

I met Piotr four years ago for the first time. He was an ordinary high school student. I remember him as a blond, tall, handsome guy walking along the school corridor. Today, he is 21, he lives in Warsaw. He works as a model represented by the Embassy Models agency. Piotr, how have you started modelling? My adventure with modelling has started nearly two years ago when I was a student of the University of Warsaw. I have become a model by an accident, literally. The story begins at the railway’s station in Gdansk. I was taking a train to Warsaw to get back home after a week of partying. While waiting in a queue to buy a ticket a random guy walked up to me and asked if I was a model. Later on, he became my agent. What was your reaction? At first, I thought he was just joking and making fun of me. However, he asked me if he could take a photo of me, asked if I know my measurements etc. Casual model-scouting stuff. I have never thought about becoming a model before, so I was quite amazed. It was quite a funny situation by the way. So you decided to sign a contract… Yes. The agency is based in Warsaw so I decided to give it a try and I signed my first contract, some days after meeting this guy. What was your first experience with modelling? I had a couple of photo shoots in Warsaw, but my first serious experience was going to Milan for men’s fashion week. It turned out pretty good, I got few jobs. I was working with different people, some of them were impressed by my work what made me feel more confident.You know, it feels pleasant to hear good things about yourself. I’ve to spend around 2 months there, met amazing people who became my friends and I had an opportunity to see and enjoy the whole beauty of Milan.

What was the biggest challenge for you? Hmm.. that’s a tough question. Well, modelling isn’t really challenging for me. I don’t understand people who say that being a model is difficult. For me, it is nothing but sometimes you have to be thick-skinned for sure. In what situations should you be thick-skinned? You need to know your value, be prepared and resistant to a lot of critiques. Even if clients at the castings don’t say anything mean, sometimes being rejected 20 times in a row can be quite disappointing. But come on, it is normal that not everybody will like you! Also, working at the commercial markets may be very annoying. In Europe being a model has some kind of value and charm while in Asia you are just a walking coat-hanger or even worse - a good looking white mascot, trust me that’s how the thing is in Asia. How does your work look like? If it comes to my work it is not very spectacular. The only big brand I worked for was Prada. I did showroom for them, then there was John Galliano and some smaller Italian brands. After Milan, I started going more often to the East. Turkey, China, and markets there are really commercial so there is nothing worth mentioning. Do you find posing difficult or is it just a piece of cake for you? To be fair, I don’t have any problems with posing. I have always been quite a shy person so I thought I was going to have some problems with working in front of the camera. However, it turned out totally different. I am comfortable with shootings. I also found out that is vital to get along with the photographer and people who work on the project. Why? Because if the atmosphere is fine it is easier for everyone to do their jobs. Saying in a nutshell, I am having fun while posing and I really like it. How does it feel to see yourself in a magazine? O God, I hate it and I am literally trying to avoid looking at my pictures as much as I can. I just don’t understand their style and act of beauty. Extraordinary face, perfect body etc. That’s what comes to my mind when I think of a model.

What do you do to stay fit? When it comes to my diet and being fit. I am the lucky person who doesn’t need to sweat off anything to lose weight. I am naturally thin and nothing will change it. I have never been worried about my figure. I am as I am, that’s it. However, I do some workouts for myself to feel good and keep my body in good condition. Wherever I go I find a gym or a place to do the street workout. Moreover, I go for jogging regularly. Don’t you have a special requirement that applies to your figure? Obviously, in the world of fashion, you have to have a “perfect body” to do the proper campaigns. I am not fighting for this perfect body so that is why I am not doing sports shootings or the campaigns with men’s underwear. I am not even trying to be that thin as some models are. I just don’t want to be one of them. What about your face? That’s one part that I am really taking care of as it is the most important in my job. This is the reason why I stopped with eating candies, chocolates etc. What do you like and don’t like about your job? In my view, there are a lot of disadvantages. On the other hand, you can get a lot from this work. What I appreciate the most is the opportunity to travel around the world. If you cant afford to go to some remote place and you are ready to spend there about 3 months, just become a model! If you are lucky enough you don’t have to worry about anything, you will get weekly pocket money, place to stay, flight tickets and free parties. Why is more, you have a lot of free time so you can discover the city, go to the art galleries, museums, beaches and other interesting places. Finally, can you tell me what is the modelling for you? It’s fun but just fun. I would choke people from doing modelling if they want to do something meaningful. As I mentioned before you are basically a coat-hanger, you can work with different kinds of creative people like photographers, designers etc., but no matter how much effort you put in it you always end up being just a product. And if that’s not enough, it’s is only because of your face, not your personality, beliefs nor intelligence. Of course, that’s only my point of view. Supermodel, Piotr Wozniak is about to stop his career. He says that he has stopped studying to travel and make some money but he also admitted missing his previous life. “I’m definitely going back to uni next year and perhaps sometimes, during free time, I will do some modelling too.” Should Piotr’s modelling maelstrom end up like this?

JULIA FROM

CZESTOCHOWA

BANAS TO

NEW

YORK

U L I A B A N A S a model from Czestochowa, scouted in her school corridor on her way to the class. Soon after that she became a model for Gucci, Mert and Marcus and walked for Miu Miu in Paris. She appeared in Vogue, Elle and K MAG covers and received an award for „The Biggest Talent Glamour 2015”. This girl bumps up on over the world.

Julia was seventeen when she started working as a model. Five feet eleven inches tall girl was noticed in her school corridor by one of the modelling scouts who was visiting his alma mater. Her extraordinary appearance and diastema have attracted scout’s attention. Some time after that she went to Warsaw for the casting in the AS Management agency. By putting her best foot forward Julia went through. Her modelling adventure has started immediately. Julia was sent to Berlin for her first serious photo shoot for the Interview magazine. „I was freaked out, I can’t describe my fright but it was an amazing first experience” says Julia Her family and friends were waiting eagerly to see her pictures in the magazine.

Their excitement was even bigger when her picture has appeared on the Vogue cover for the first time. Photo shoots with Julia were also published in W Magazine, Harper’s Bazaar, Elle, and L’Officiel. Today, she has a good collection made by her grandmother who is constantly buying all these magazines. „When my grandmother saw a picture of me on the Vogue’s cover tears appeared on her cheeks. It was such an emotional moment for both of us. Her support means a lot to me.” Julia says. Photo modelling is just a part of her work. She appears on the catwalk very often, as well. Miu Miu, Marc Jacobs, Gucci – these are only some brands that she worked for. Her first fashion show was for the Miu Miu, she became an “exclusive” which means she was booked only for this brand at that season.

According to Naomi Campbell’s remark for Daily Mail, modelling is a tough row to hoe. Naomi said ‘I want people to really understand what the world of modelling is about, and how hard we work’. It requires self - sacrifice and being mentally strong. Only resistant girls can hold this pressure in this king of a rat race. Being physically strong is crucial. However, you cannot do the modelling if you are not in a good shape and if you don’t fit the measurements. Unfortunately, the trend of being unduly thin has really caught on. This is why girls are going on to the restrictive diets what usually devastates their health. Julia spins the story about the modelling industry facts. In the same times she denies being on such a diet “I just eat healthy. Choosing vegetables and fish instead of fast food is not a big deal for me.” Although, she works out a lot in the gym with a personal trainer - Tadeusz Gauer, who takes care of the best training schedule for her. Julia also attributes her physique to Yoga, Pilates, and Zumba that have become ‘very important’.

Julia says that being a model requires good organisation and time management. She is frequently obliged to make ‘snap decisions’ about going to various places. Julia works for agencies such as: The Society Management, Elite Paris, Elite Milan, Elite London, Jill Models Management, Elite Barcelona, Elite Copenhagen, Modelwerk, Munich Models and Modelling so she travels a lot. However, she admits that getting used to traveling was quite difficult. Furthermore, Julia has a boyfriend who works for the same agency as she does. However, they were working together just once. They did shooting campaign for K MAG magazine and they both describe it as an amazing experience and fun. „We obviously never compete with each other,” said Karol Sapinski, Julia’s boyfriend. Her friends say that Julia is a warm and very optimistic person. Thus, it is not surprising that her key to success is “to be yourself, never complain and smile a lot.” „Jul is just professional. Seeing your friend winning the „Model of The Year” award is like winning yourself” said Paula Kierzek, Julia’s friend.

Moreover, Julia’s commitment to her job was appreciated by many people she was working with. „I was working with Julia in 2013 that was the beginning of her modelling career. Despite not having any modelling experience she made a good impression on me. I will never forget the moment when during the photo shoot she was posing in the sunlight until she wiped away a tear from her cheek.” said Joanna Sikorska, a Polish fashion designer. As soon as she started doing modelling she challenges herself by setting new goals and trying to achieve them step by step. Her dream is to work with: Mario Testino, Steven Klein, Inez van Lamsweerde or Vinoodh Matadin because she sees them as the most inspiring photographers As such a young girl she has visited many different places and had also an opportunity to live in New York. Julia takes modelling as „a big celebration of beauty and strong women.” She promotes herself on social media, especially on the Instagram where everyone can see her achievements and current works. One day, a very famous fashion designer, Karl Lagerfeld said “The secret to modeling is not being perfect. What one needs is a face that people can identify in a second.You have to be given what’s needed by nature, and what’s needed is to bring something new.”

Agencies New York - The Society Management

Paris - Elite Paris

Milan - Elite Milan

London - Elite London

Barcelona - Elite Spain

Copenhagen - Elite Copenhagen

Hamburg - MODELWERK

Munich - Munich Models

Stockholm - Modellink

Warsaw - AS MANAGEMENT

Mother

agency

AS MANAGEMENT (Warsaw) More information https://models.com/models/julia-banas

2017

FDC

Young

Fash

ion

Designer

Awards

2017 FDC Young Fashion Designer Awards & Collections Presentation turned out very successful The 2017 FDC Young Designer Awards & Collections Presentation took place on 28 October 2017 at Pullman London Hotel St Pancras. It was organised by Fashion Designers and Craft Makers Network which is founded by Joanna Marcella. “The aim of this event was to increase the number and visibility of emerging young and exceptionally gifted multi-cultural designers, and to encourage them to reach their true potential, by rewarding those who excelled both creatively and academically.” Fashion Designers and Craft Makers made a high - end and outstanding event where the fantastic array of UK an international couture and ready-to-wear designers presented their garments. D E S I G N E R S AT T H E P R E S E N TAT I O N Candace Crawford- Cocoabelly Costumes, Deborah Majen - Deborah Majen Designs, Sasha Walton - House of Solana, Deborah Glasgow - Biblos Glasgow, Stine Sandermann - SANDERMANN, Eve Jenkins - Parasit Eve Design, Shelby Fuller - Elizabeth An’Marie, Charlene Mohamed - KC Dainty, Ya-Sheng Yu - Paradiso, Sarah Salvador - Sarah Salvador, Huan Yang - Huan Yang, Adrine Joseph - Firan & Rose, Paula Prodan, Cameron O’Loan, Violet Somers, Chenky Ju, JanPhilipp Kosfeld - J P K, Georgie Rouse - Lily Rouse, Alexandria Chantiluke, Anastasia Kuatkhina - Maison Magenta, Rebekah Gebru and Lian Poulson - Lian Cara. THE WINNERS Alexandria Chantiluke became the 2017 FDC Radical Designer of theYear, andViolet Somers was named as the 2017 FDC Young Designer of the Year. Special recognition was given to Radical Designer Jan-Philipp Kosfeld andYoung Designer Paula Prodan.” “Vancouver Fashion Week will decide which winning designer is going to début a collection in their fashion week and all winning designers will be offered the opportunity to show their collection in our New York City Angelman Syndrome Collections Presentation next year.”

A I M MAGAZINE spoke to some of them to discover their stories. When asked first and the most general question I knew immediately that their stories were going to be very different. They are not just fashion designers, they are amazing people who can really achieve a lot in this industry.

SANDERMANN I’m extremely ambivalent when it comes to fashion. I definitely don’t feel comfortable when I’m at big fashion trade shows or fashion shows. I once went to a Burberry show in London and I had very mixed feelings afterwards, after looking at all the bloggers/influencers posing in front of the big logo and seeing how the celebrities were shying away from the paps. I thought it was all too crazy. But on the other hand, fashion is the medium through which I can “talk”, so it gives me a platform, so i that sense it means a lot. And I do meet a lot of really nice people. JAN PHILIP KOSFELD I think it is a very broad definition and stands for a lot of subgenres. It basically just means that the stage for garments is the street.A very free and rebellious stage which makes it so fascinating.I love the moment when street fashion meets high fashion! It is beautiful to see how so many people united by one passion bring life to these amazing garments and incorporate them into their everyday life!

LIAN CARA I don’t think you really can define fashion. It means something different to everyone. I believe that fashion is one of the most common forms of expression. It can say a lot about a person’s identity and how they wish to be perceived. I hope that my work allows people to express themselves to the world and gives them the confidence to voice their identity through fashion.

ALEXANDRIA CHANTILUKE

I think that fashion is an artistic form, just like sculpture, music, literature visual arts, etc. I have always believed that art has the power not only to document change but to start change because art has the power to speak to us as individuals. In this way I believe that fashion is extremely important as an outlet for self expression. I am able to use fashion to illustrate a story or convey a message as I have done with this collection ‘Swamp 81’. Another thing I love about fashion is that you can tell so much about the politics of an era by what people wear in it: for instance the Hip Hop subculture was revolutionary as an anti-establishment movement. Hip Hop fashion demonstrated people’s frustration with the status quo and their desire for change. Hip Hop fashion went hand in hand with other art forms of the era, graffiti street art and hip hop music, where societal shifts were made clear to people. However, I do think that fashion is perhaps even more important than other art forms as an outlet to document change because it’s the only art form that people carry on their bodies every day. Fashion literally makes contact with individuals and becomes a part of their personal expression, whether people realise it or not. This direct relationship between fashion and individuals makes fashion perhaps the most important art form and outlet to document change and to start change.

Model: Amanda Bo Elfving Photo: Cristina Reuter Hair: Stine Sandermann MUA: Stine Sandermann Clothes: Sandermann

VISION SANDERMANN’s work stems from the early definition of sustainability which goes:“Sustainable development is development that meets the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs”.This is from the Brundtland report, and it is very much what SANDERMANN’s vision is about.This brand envisions a future where it is no longer a fact that thee textile industry is the world’s second most polluting industry.“Hopefully no industries will be polluting any environments”, said Stine Sandermann - the founder and owner of SANDERMANN. A I M spoke to SANDERMANN to explore the designer’s world. BACKGROUND When I graduated from my MA in London, I felt like I had a huge need for doing my own thing rather than working at a company which did not share my values or would not let me implement my ideas properly. I then became a member of a small desk space community for start-ups called “Sylab” in Denmark, where I’m based today, and this helped me a lot with establishing my brand. I can’t ignore the fact that I might have been influenced creatively throughout my childhood by my family. My maternal grandmother was a seamstress, her brother was a painter, my paternal grandmother mastered all sorts of crafts from knitting to lace making, my mother has always been knitting, weaving, sewing and my father and brother are musicians. It was almost inevitable for me to not work within a creative field.

Have you always wanted to become a fashion designer? Not until I was 20, actually. I spent my youth on competing in horseback riding and thought I would work with animals, but when I got older I realised that I probably wouldn’t love it the same way if it was a job. So I tried to come up with other things I’ve always enjoyed doing and I immediately thought of drawing. I actually filled out most of my math books as a kid with drawings - and among them were fashion drawings.So I attended the Scandinavian College of Design and then I just knew. INSPIRATIONS I’ve called the collection “Through Another Prism”, because I wanted to show that it was possible to make a beautiful collection from just waste materials and rebel against the conventional fashion system. It’s basically my way of being an activist in the sense that I’m transforming my thoughts into form, sending a message when I tell the story. On the visual level, I started out by taking the phrase “Through Another Prism” very literal - so I did a series of photographs where I took photos of objects through different prisms (water, glass, minerals and acrylic glass) and this would then serve as a visual inspiration for the collection.

METHODS Why have you decided to work with wool? Isn’t it difficult? As mentioned, my mom is very craftsy, and back in 2012 she had a phase where she loved to spin her own wool yarns on her wooden spinning wheel. I knew nothing of wool, or sustainability for that matter, and out of boredom I went with her to collect raw wool from a local sheep breeder. When we drove home I asked her what the sheep breeder would do with all the bags of wool we didn’t pick up, and she answered that he would just burn it. It was a jaw-dropping experience for me, so in 2014 when I had to do my final bachelor’s project, I chose to investigate this further and create a collection from this type of wool. The thing is that these sheep are bred for their meat and other properties than their wool, so the wool is coarse and it has basically just become a burden for the sheep breeder. It’s not difficult, it’s quite simple actually: I pick up the raw wool, sort it, ship it to the spinning mill, they ship back the finished yarns, and then I knit with it. But each step just takes a lot of time, though, which I have to optimize on in the future. How long does it take you to make one sweater? If you count in the spinning process, it takes approximately 3-4 months from fibre to finished product. But if you only think of the knitting process it takes a couple of days from yarn to finished product. Why are your sweaters oversized? I love oversized garments, I find it so much more comfortable. Also, it doesn’t matter if you gain or loose a little weight. I just want to create garments that people can live in, if you know what I mean? Garments they will use a lot and keep for a long time. EVOLUTION OF THE BRAND I’ve learned a lot about which materials and textile techniques I want to work with. I’ve come to realise that I have to do less design work that ends up in showpieces that I can’t sell, and think more in smart ways to optimise my design techniques that can sell. But I still enjoy doing the showpieces, so for the recent collection “Through Another Prism”, I made a cruelty free fur jacket which took a lot of time to make. It’s made of a knitted base fabric and then I use shorn wool locks and sew them on one by one. All in all I was very pleased with this collection, whereas there were things I wanted to change with the previous collection “All That Glitters is Gold”. FUTURE PLANS I hope the new collection, which drops in the web-shop ultimo November, will sell well, and I hope to scale up production next year and maybe outsource it to a local Danish manufacturer so that I won’t have to knit and sew everything myself. And I really just hope that I can influence people’s choice of clothing so that we can create a more green industry in the future.

JAN

PHILIP

KOSFELD

VISION Underground Elegance. Jan-Philip Kosfeld is aiming to create a wardrobe that is elevating and comfortable to wear. He wants his clothes to push the wearer’s confidence and the way they are perceived in their everyday life. “I want to make uncontemporary elegance like we had in the twenties accessible for people of my time by combining it with elements that are referencing Hip-Hop and Street Culture.” BACKGROUND I grew up watching my mum going through her materials archive in her studio and selecting the fabrics and all the materials she would use for her projects.You could say I always had an interest in that kind of stuff. But to be honest I grew up playing with friends in the forests that surround my hometown. So, I was far away from anything connected to fashion. It was later when I knew I was going to do Fashion Design that I started reaching out to people for internships and then later with 17 interned with the German couturier Albrecht Ollendiek and continued working for him until I left Frankfurt to go to London. When I was around 15 I was working as a lift boy in a five-star hotel and after I worked there for a while and interacted with all kinds of people I realized how clothing can give a person a completely different attitude than what their actual character would be like. That to me is power. Learning how to perfectly speak and express this visual language is what I am doing ever since. This idea evolved and became clearer over time and ultimately led up to where I am right now. INSPIRATIONS The collection, if you want to call it that, developed from a project I was doing for Central Saint Martins and because I loved what I was doing I thought why not take it a step further and actually paint the picture as I want people to see it. The idea of the collection was empowerment! I looked into fragility and PTSD’s of female Soldiers and mixed it with military clothing references to create a look that is meant to protect the wearer not only in a physical but also in a psychological way. To achieve that I am playing with juxtapositions of cuts and fabrics. The silhouette, colours, and details are what gets the visual message across but the fabrics used is something you only experience fully while wearing it. For the wearer, this adds another psychological layer of joy.

EVOLUTION OF THE BRAND Started from the bottom now we’re here. FUTURE PLANS I am planning to create a new collection for next year and with the support of the FDC Network hope to be showcasing in showrooms in London, New York and maybe Vancouver Fashion Week! You never know how things fall into place so I am excited about whatever comes up!

Model: William ‘TRILL WILL’ Stapelton Photo: Jake Osman

Model: â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Jessia Llyoyd Photo: Jake Osman

LIAN

CARA

Model: Rhiannon Austin Photo: Laser Photografix Hair/MUA : Anna-Mae Mcbeth Clothes: Lian Cara

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VISION Lan Cara’s vision is to create ready-to-wear pieces that are available to buy on her website. She would also like to have her pieces stocked in selected boutiques. Eventually, once the business is established enough she would like to open up her own boutique that has a workshop on the side. The boutique will showcase her work and the work of other emerging designers across the UK. “Having the workshop on the side I will give customers a chance to see the work being made. With this, it will also give me the opportunity to offer a made to measure service.” Lian Cara for A I M MAGAZINE. BACKGROUND My dream has always been to work in the fashion industry whilst still being able to have a family life. Being a very family orientated person, I decided to start my own business based in my hometown. Making a drastic move to London away from them all wasn’t for me. Fortunately, I have the support and the networks around me to be able to accomplish my dream. Apart from wanting to be a spy when I was about 6, I’ve always wanted to make clothes.When I was younger my mum bought me my first sewing machine and I used to cut up my clothes just so I could sew them back together. My favourite creation was when I attached the bottom half of a pair of white combats onto the the top half of a pair of jeans. I remember being so proud of them. INSPIRATIONS As a designer,creating pattern through the construction of a garment,rather than using traditional methods such as print has always inspired my work.More recently,I have combined this design concept with laser cutting to create intricate design details that without it would not have been possible. For my most recent collection, ‘Natural Reflection’, I have used architectural arches and shapes to inform the silhouette and structure of the garments, whilst maintaining a sense of fluidity and movement, which can be found in the natural landscapes of the Welsh countryside. Coming from a very rural area in Carmarthenshire, South Wales I am lucky enough to have been brought up in the countryside. A lot of this is what inspires my work. The natural textures and shapes that can be found in the Welsh landscapes are truly inspiring. I wanted to contrast this with architectural influences. METHODS Every garment is different. I use a variety of machine and hand sewing skills in each piece. It varies depending on the structure of the garment and the fabric being used.

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EVOLUTION OF THE BRAND I can’t really answer that one yet.I graduated this summer and I’ve just been using my graduate collection to let people know who Lian Cara is.At the moment,I’m working on designing a new read-towear collection that will be available on my website,www.liancara.com,in the upcoming months. You’ll have to come back and ask me in 6 months time! FUTURE PLANS At this moment in time, I’m only concentrating on a few months at a time so that I don’t lose track of where I am. In the next few months, I intend to release my new ready-to-wear collection and then monitor its sales. I will also be featured in the upcoming designers section in Vogue in the new-year so I’m definitely looking forward to this!

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Model: Lauren Briks Photo: Simons Photography

Hair: Charis Tyrrell MUA:Victoria Gracia

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Chantiluke

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VISION My vision is to be become an established global brand, I want to continue to use fashion design to express my thoughts and feelings on issues that I am most passionate about. Most importantly my vision is for my brand to celebrate black-culture through the exploration of themes such as masculinity, music, poetry, hip-hop, street culture and pop culture. BACKGROUND Owning my own brand has always been one of my main goals as a designer and after completing my fashion design degree I was eager to get started. I wanted to continue my design work and expand on my final year dissertation research topic of ‘materialism in hip hop culture’. It is for this reason why starting my own brand is so important to me, as I have have full creative freedom to present designs and concepts on subjects that I am passionate about. This is a luxury that you do not often find when working for larger design companies as your focus is on maintaining the company’s brand aesthetic as opposed to your own individual style. I have always had a keen interest in fashion ever since primary school. I still have drawings of designs that I did when I was just seven years old and I can remember telling every teacher that fashion design was the career that I wanted to pursue. I always enjoyed the creative subjects such as art, graphics and textiles and this continued until university where I completed my BA Hons in Fashion Design. In saying this, becoming a fashion designer has long since been a dream of mine and I have always known that having my own fashion brand was my ultimate long term goal. Although I am still at the very beginning stages of my brand I am confident in the potential that my brand has to bring something innovative and daring to menswear. It is amazing to look back and see how much I have progressed and how much closer I am to achieving my childhood dream. INSPIRATIONS I come from a proud british-caribbean home and I Iove celebrating the beauty that can be found in black-british history both past and present. My parents would always tell me stories about their experiences growing up in my home city of Birmingham and the challenges they often faced with racism. Although these stories were painful to hear, I have always been very interested in learning more about black-british history, particularly in Birmingham. These stories are ultimately what inspired me to pursue this concept for my collection about the 1980’s Handsworth riots and how they reflected the societal injustice and political unrest in black-british history. Communicating the concept behind my collection was extremely important to me; I aimed to use this collection as a way to educate myself and others about Birmingham’s black-British history. The riots were a painful confrontation between Birmingham’s black population and its racist police forces.They remind me of the hardfought war that is being waged by black people across the globe for justice and equality today.

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EVOLUTION OF THE BRAND As I have only recently begun this venture to create my own brand my design style hasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t changed very much but I am beginning to see changes in the way that I work. For instance, I have begun working on a ready-to-wear streetwear collection to run alongside my main catwalk looks. I felt that this was necessary to make my designs available for a wider market of both luxury and high street store customers. As previously mentioned I have also found that working towards my own brand has helped me to explore my own personal design style without the influence from other head designers or fashion buyers that you would often encounter whilst working for large companies in the fashion industry. FUTURE PLANS In the near future I aim to launch my new spring/summer collection in 2018 and showcase my designs both in the UK and USA. Alongside this I also aim to launch my online store and continue to grow my menswear design range with lots of new and exciting themes to explore.

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Model:s: Craig Nelson, Ryan Campbell, Jordan Maxwell Photo: Elspeth Van Der Hole Clothes: Alexandria Chantiluke

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DRESS E

CODE Y

DECODED S

MODEL: Anna Leonowicz SHIRT:

H&M

TROUSERS: Urban Outfitters SHOES: Gucci BAG:

Gucci

Casual means informal, informal means comfortable. This dress code emphasises comfort and everyday mood. Comfortable doesn’t mean less elegant. You still need to brush your hair and put your make up on. If you feel like wearing a shirt and loafers every day, go for it!

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COAT:United Colours of Beneton T-SHIRT:Miss Sixty TROUSERS:

Zara

SHOES:Vans

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Lazy day? Don’t worry, we all know the feeling of wearing a tracksuit and staying in bed watching Netflix. Although, if you have to go out because it is Saturday and you had the shopping planned just put on the loose trousers, an oversized t-shirt and trainers, you’ll look great.

THEATRE

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SMART

JACKET:Max Mara DRESS: Versace SHOES:JK Bennet BAG:

Ferragamo

This is the chance for the best in all categories.The black dress and heels will always look fantastic.Perfect makeup and your favourite Coco Chanel perfumes on your neck and you are ready to go.Who is shining tonight?

WORK

DAY

FORMAL

SHIRT:H&M SKIRT:

Patriza Pepe

SHOES:JK Bennet BAG:

Coco Cinelle

First, check your work dress code as a short skirt might not be accepted. Blacks and whites are always safe. Remember, that not only loafers exist!

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#BrokenHeart Most of us want to meet the “right person”, someone to have an amazing relationship with. However, many romantic partnerships end in dissolution. Unsuccessful relationship may hurt and stay in your mind for a long time. There are many ways to express your feelings and eliminate negative thoughts. One of them is photography. Kiki Doxaki, second year photography student of University of Arts in London tells her story about her unsuccessful relationship through the photography. In search of lost parts of my life, I decided to work on a project that is more personal for me, or that was what I thought at the beginning because at the end it came out unipersonal. I just came out of a long time relationship with my ex-boyfriend and I wanted to take photographs that were telling a story but not from I had been through that relationship, but stories from other people breakups. I did some interviews with people who had bad experience and they’ve been broken by others so I collected some personal stories. I use photography to explore the relation between love and feelings, the constructed reality of the broken couples. Moreover, I use smooth and dark colours to keep the photographs in the right flow. In one month, I collected many stories and then I tried to find models that fit the theme. Although, easily assumed to be photoshopped so they have this vibe of a fake story but when I look at the photographs now they are often realised to be more real than first expected.

Love is a feeling that we all have and we all been hurt by someone and some of us move on but some other stay behind. Love is all you need; true love is forever and conquers all; true lovers are united; love is irreplaceable and exclusive;

Ascribing to this ideology, love is comprehensive, uncompromising, and unconditional. Furthermore, eternal love and self-sacrifice are used to legitimise whatever is done ‘in the name of love’. Also, I think that it is a political subject because of love, for us, is a sentiment of enduring warmth towards a person or people, which shows a deep concern for them.

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Models: Harmony Searles, Callum Hicks Photo: Kiki Doxaki

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Models:Aline Castilia, Amelia Krzapa Photo: Kiki Doxaki

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Models: Dennis Sierra Parra, Adel Serhal Photo: Kiki Doxaki

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PAINTER

WHO

PAINTS,

PHOTOGRAPHS

Justyna Warwas has just come from a two-week stay in China. She was there at the Beijing Art Biennale. Justyna is the only Polish artist who has been qualified to this widely known event. She is scoring success every single day. She is not an ordinary photographer or just a painter. Justyna Warwas is a real artist who mixes photography with painting. What does she do and how? PHOTOGRAPHY It can show you something that you are not able to spot. For me, everyone is exceptional and beautiful in a way. There are many people who can’t believe in themselves. I like the feeling when I take a picture of a girl and she just can’t believe that it is her in the picture. It is not a power of Photoshop or any other programme. It is just a picture and a way you do it. ART It is Justyna’s whole life. COLLAGE That is her key to colligate both her beloved fields when it comes to art. She uses her photographs, especially the women’s portraits, and paint them partly. Which field do you prefer, photography or painting? I can’t decide as I love both of them. What is tremendous, is the fact that when I feel exhausted in painting I can always go to my studio and do something else, which is photography.You know, these fields are totally different, as when I do the photoshoot I can meet my friends, a cool group of people who I enjoy working with. When it comes to painting I am alone in my atelier, I work in a total silence because I have to focus on doing my work. I do both as a treat from another. INSPIRATIONS She loves nature. She grew up in a village and she comes back to this place as often as she can. Nature is very inspirational for her. There is nothing better for her than just a walk in a forest with her lovely dog. Justyna is not that kind of person who likes to show off. When asked about her biggest success she said: I am happy about everything. Small things make me happy. I work with amazing people and that makes me happy. I don’t feel any need to try everything and feel good in it.What I mean by this is that I am happy with what I have and what I am doing, that’s it.

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Models:Kinga Rajchel Photo: Justyna Warwas Styling: Agnieszka Krajewska

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Models:Ania Photo: Justyna Warwas MUA: Agnieszka Broda Stylist: Agnieszka Krajewska

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GREAT

FASHIO

ION

PHOTOGRAPH

Q&A with Toby Shaw A fashion and celebrity photographer

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Fashion photography is not a piece of cake. It is probably the most desirable fields of photography. This kind of photography focuses on displaying clothes and other fashion accessories. It is also associated with collaborating with famous fashion designers, supermodels, make - up artists, stylists and lot of other people. Fashion photography is mostly about “capturing them in the moment look” said Toby Shaw, a fashion photographer from Hastings,West Sussex.“Toby Shaw is widely regarded as one of the most up and coming influential fashion and portrait photographers. His photographs have been published internationally in magazines such as Blurred Magazine, Gate Magazine, andVegan life. He has contributed to the success of leading fashion brands from Versus Versace, Zara, Roberta Einer, and Overboard Drybags.” What makes a great fashion photograph? A great fashion photograph is one that captures the in the moment look. A photograph that doesn’t look staged and forced. Was your childhood connected with photography in any way? My childhood wasn’t connected with photography at all.Years later when I picked up a camera it took me a while until I developed a passion for photographing people and realized clothes are an important part on how they can represent a person and add to one’s personality and to the photograph. How would you describe your work to someone who has never seen it? My work is capturing people in a raw state to the images. Showing them as healthy glowing and capturing the moment and the personality of that person. My style is raw, sometimes grainy and straight from the negative without much editing. In other words, I keep it simple. What are the biggest challenges in fashion photography? Getting work and having others want to hire you because of your unique photography style. It is believing so much in your work that you want others to want the same. You collaborate with different people. Tell me how do you feel while collaborating with models, stylists, make-up artists etc. I would say collaborating and shooting with models makes me feel good like my career is and my work is progressing. I feel that it also keeps me in practice.

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PHOTOGRAPH

What equipment do you usually use for the fashion photography? It all really depends on what the shoot entails. If it’s for a magazine I’ll probably end up shooting film and take and a digital camera as back up. I’d also either rent or bring my own lighting depending on the budget on the shoot and what look they’re after. Is there anyone who inspires you? David Bailey, Mario Testino, day to day people that pursue something they have a passion in and getting through the hard times that come along with chasing the dream What are you working on now? I’m moving to Australia. I have meetings with photo agents and fashion magazines set up for when I get out there. Who knows what will happen? I’m starting a new chapter in the book! What advice do you have for individuals interested in pursuing a career in photography? Yeah, I would say be yourself and shoot what motivates you and that of what drives you and interests you. Create photos that you want to see in the world. Create your own style and be the best at being yourself in a world where everyone copies everyone. Be yourself, be hardworking, and you’ll get there. Be prepared to be turned down a thousand times for maybe a couple replies and that may not even be what you’re expecting.

If bad

you

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enough

to then

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The

King

Temptations

Tips On How To Be a Fashionable Man

“When I started with blogging I was reading and checking every comment and like on my social media sites. I was really worried about the negative opinion. It took me a while to finally understand that I have become a public figure and I can’t care too much. Haters gonna hate.That’s how it works.” The King Of Temptations, a fashion blogger, and a public figure.Twenty-one-year-old Rafal Dudek highlights his strong personality and self-confidence.He conducts a fashion blog as the King OfTemptations.He co-works with a lot of partners such as New Balance,DanielWellington,Hotel Sheraton or Coca-Cola. His blog is about male fashion, cosmetics and testing variety of products.We have discussed fashion and his blogger life. Find out a piece of advice given by the King Of Temptations. What does fashion mean to you? Fashion is a relative concept. It is definitely something crucial as it’s with us every day, literally all the time. For me, fashion is a way to show yourself. We can show who we really are. It is like a body language - by someone’s movements, you can say if the person is an introvert or an extrovert. The same thing is with fashion when you see someone wearing colourful clothes you would probably see this person as an optimist. Nowadays, we are continuously being observed by others and we observe them too. That is why I think we should wear fashionable and stylish clothes to feel more confident and comfortable. You are a fashion blogger. Tell me more about your blog. When and how did you start blogging? It all began because of the Instagram. Everyone knows Instagram, right? I was having fun with publishing my pictures in different outfits, in different places. Firstly, I was sharing those pictures only with my friends who were following me on Instagram. After some time, I was gaining more and more likes and followers.

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The number of my followers was increasing very quickly. I am not sure how and why it happened. Anyway, I was really enjoying it. One day I thought I could start blogging and share my passion with those people. So your career as the King of Temptations has started. Can you please tell me what does your nickname mean and where does it come from? Rafal laughs. I knew that you were going to ask me about it. There are many temptations around me, around you, everyone. I am a person with a strong personality. I am trying not to undergo those temptations. “King of” comes from Michael Jackson who has always been my idol, a person who I will always admire. Do you read every comment on your blog or Instagram? I must admit that when I started with blogging I was reading every comment, checking likes on my social media websites. I was worried about the negative comments. It took me a while to finally understand that I have become a public person and that haters gonna hate. After some time I have learned how to look and read properly. I am just reading the positives, it makes me feel more confident and I have the power to continue my work. Don’t you care about the negative words? I do accept the negatives if those are constructive enough. It can be very helpful. It helps you realise what you did wrong and what you should improve. Nowadays, in the era of the Internet, anyone can become a blogger. The question is: how to push yourself forward and gain a great number of readers? Yes, today everyone can have a blog. That’s totally true. However, not every blog is going to be successful. I have been working on my blog for a long time. I am still keeping my blog updated as much as I can because I do not want to defeat my readers. To be fair, there is no recipe for how to be a good blogger. Everyone has their own steps to follow. One of the most important things is to be trustworthy and do not cheat your readers.You have to find a way of getting closer to your readers. Create something that will draw people’s attention and make them stay and leave the like or follow. How do you do that? Well, I am trying not to write in an interesting and catchy way. What is more, I keep my posts in a perfect length. Not too short, not too long.

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What about helping each other by giving like for like or follow for following? Isn’t it helpful and easy? Obviously, it is easy but it is cheating, isn’t it? It is very unprofessional and dull. If you really want to gain readers and write for a broad audience you have to work for it. Hard work is a key to success. You work with different partners. Can you tell how did your first partnership look like? Sure. It was four years ago, some days before Christmas. I was checking my email and I realized that I got email from the Coca-Cola company. I thought it was a fake or something. You know, when you get so many useless advertisements to your mailbox. However, they wrote that they would like to cooperate with me. I was so excited as it was my first serious campaign. Today, I work with many companies and it is beneficial for both sides. Let’s talk about male fashion. Do you think that men pay enough attention to their looks? Over the past few years, the industry of fashion has changed mountainously. Our tastes have changed too. The Same thing has happened to men. The stereotype, of a smelly man with dirty hair, has disappeared. Today, men pay much more attention to how do they look than it was some years ago. They do care about their appearance and everyday outfits. We see a man visiting a beautician or going ahead with plastic surgeries and it’s nothing wrong with it. I know some men who care about their appearance more than the women do. Everyone should care about how do they look, anyway. Who do you see as a trendsetter? I really do not like this name. Instead of a trendsetter, I would say the icon of fashion. Who do you think is the icon of fashion then? I am inspired by best of the best.Mariano DiVaio,David Beckham,David Gandy,Bryanboy or Michael Jackson.These guys will last forever just like broad-shouldered coats,military patterns,and spangles.

Michael Jackson is a king of pop. Rafał Dudek is a King Of Temptations. He keeps working on his blog and is very active on his social media. Hmm… Have you already seen his last post?

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MUST

HAVE

FOR

MAN

T R E N C H C OAT Always trendy. Medium length is on top now.

RA M O N E S B LA C K L EAT H E R JA C K ET Not only for rock bands.

N AVY B L U E S U IT Universal.

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W H IT E S H I RT For a date, for shopping, for going to theatre.

T RA I N E R S For almost every occasion. Flat sole and universal colour so they can match different outfits.

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Rafal D

f Te

gO n i K ek

mp e t g n i k w.

ions Â t a t p m

ot.c p s g o l tions.b

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FASHION

PSYCHOLOGY

Here is a small surprise from A I M. The article below is an article written by someone else. Someone whose astonishing knowledge in psychology can help you understand fashion. Maria Kossowska, University of York Psychology student has written a piece about fashion from quite a different perspective. Y O UT H - O R I E NT E D FA S H I O N Clothes are significant for establishing women’s hierarchy in society. There is, however, clear evidence of indirect influences coming from discourse in the media, video clips and advertisements. These, together with a prevalent culture of consumption, constructed specific clothing norms for different age groups. However, drawing on our own observations, this tendency could be argued. Over the last 20 years, women in their Third Age started to show an interest in youth fashion. These changes are the consequence of a correlation amongst fashion journalists, designers, and consumers. Fashion has become to be more youth-oriented.Young bodies are recognised as the ideal sexual objects which draw an individual’s attention. They are associated with happiness and stability and are seen as a giver of life. Fashion designers are inspired by a young body. What is more, they choose young bodies to present a collection on a catwalk. Hence, the fashion industry implies in women a desire to look like youth. The Third Age women had been satisfied with their shopping until the changing of the clothing market started to question their sexuality. Being unable to find an attractive outfit, Third Age women get frustrated and discouraged from visiting clothing shops. Fashion seems to be a norm determined by social construction; other people’s comments force women to be constantly aware of their appearance. These lead to a statement that fashion is no longer an individual trouble, but a social issue. Pointed comments, criticisms, and jokes about their body shape are the reasons for a lower self-confidence among women. The shape and presentation of the body are changing as time goes on. Shoulders and busts are lowering, stomachs are moving forward and waists thicking. The most attractive features of a young body turn out to become the most unsatisfying and unattractive parts as the body loses its resilience and gets masked in wrinkles. In order to cramp and hide these processes, fashion designers adjust the cut to the body’s imperfections by attaching shoulder pads to optimally rise them; or by making high waist trousers to lengthen and slim down the profile. Clothing started to be a untagging therapy which made women feel more confident in their bodies. However, the cut of the clothing is successful when designers give each piece of cloth a specific colour. Women in their Third Age are usually invisible. They don’t get any attention from passers. They usually have grey hair, lighter skin and loose dresses with a cardigan on; it is not an eye-catching appearance. Here is a vital role of the designers, they choose brave and bright colours which attract the attention. Adjusting the cut and choosing full-tone colours to make women more visible and enable for the positive presentation of their self. Now their clothes fulfil their destiny; ones designated to be able to appear in public.

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Model: Amelia Krzapa Photo: Edyta Kita

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W H Y T H E “K I M K A R D A S H I A N” L O O K I S SO P O P U L A R? B O DY S H A P E S I N T H E EY E S O F R I C H A R D F E R G U S O N

The fascination of “Kim Kardashian look” has been on top for the last few years. Most of us know who is she and what is so exceptional in her. Her body shape. R I C H A R D F E R G U S O N, Middlesex University Fashion and Communication student, explains the issue of different body shapes. He organised a photoshoot to show, in an exaggerated way, the results of aiming for the “Kim Kardashian look”. “When I think of an image of Kim Kardashian with her big ass and a bottle of champagne, I feel intrigued. For me, her body looks quite grotesque. I don’t really get the fascination of her body shape. I found it so abnormal and not human. An ordinary, beautiful woman sees this kind of a body shape in a magazine and she doesn’t like her body anymore. She wants to look like the one from that magazine. She will achieve this body shape and she is going to end up with this kind of deformed, weird body.” Richard’s silhouettes present different and unusual body shapes.When I asked him if he sees women’s bodies as imperfect he answered immediately:“I don’t think that women’s bodies are imperfect.What I think is that the ‘ideal’ Kim Kardashian shape isn’t necessarily natural. It is about insecurity of thinking. It more about accepting the body you are in rather than trying to achieve the body shape which is not really achievable for most people.”

R I C HA R D E X P LA I N S T H E D E E P E R M EA N I N G O F T HAT S H O OT I N G S I L H O U ETT E S

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This girl became more and more unhappy with her body shape while trying to achieve something that was unnatural that it took her over. She looks bit like a zombie, she is drugging her body alone and she is kind of dead from the inside.

This one is about a pregnant belly. She looks serene like she is enjoying this sort of pregnancy. She likes her body.

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This is a bit strippery. Her face is like â&#x20AC;&#x153;look at my buttâ&#x20AC;?. She is really pushing it out. This butt overtakes the rest of her. This picture says more about the person that cares more about their butts than about their personality.

Her tits almost expanded. This boobs are getting larger and larger. She looks like she is gonna be taken up like a balloon.

Model:Amelia Krzapa Photo: Celine Antal Styling: Richard Ferguson

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This is the final shot. All of the â&#x20AC;Ś that she added to her body, kind of took over her. She just became tis big block of different shapes. She is being eaten by her vanity in a way.

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AUTUMN

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EDITORIAL

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Model: Wiktoria Kozlowska Photo: Jakub Kazmierczyk Styling: Amelia Krzapa

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C O A T: Zara S H I R T: Zara T R O U S E R S: Zara S H O E S: Rylko

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Model: Samuel Micheal Photo: Ester Mejibovski

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NEON

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EDITORIAL

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Look how amazing the city can be. The colours, people, the evening atmosphere. Do you see how many lights are out there? I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t think it is eco friendly, at all. However, it looks pretty cool. What do you choose? Eco friendly, dark city or the colourful neons? 194

Model: Amelia Krzapa Photo: Jakub Kazmierczyk

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S W E A T E R: Zara T R O U S E R S: Zara G L A S S E S: H&M

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PORTRAIT

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PHOTOGRAPHY

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â&#x20AC;&#x153;I leave you my portrait so that you will have my presence all days and nights that I am away from you.â&#x20AC;? Frida Khalo

A portrait captures the facial expression, enables you to find personality in there. It is unique as it emphasises the beauty of the insight. This visual representation of someone gives an impression that you know the person. There is an interaction between a person (usually) and the person who look at it. There are so many different people, different personalities, different facial expressionsâ&#x20AC;Ś

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Models: Wiktoria Kozlowska, Amelia Krzapa Photo: Jakub Kazmierczyk

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Models: Kinga Janocha Monika GĹ&#x201A;owacka Photo: Jakub Kazmierczyk

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DAWID DUMA From Rollerblades to Garments

“Fashion is something that you can use to hide. Clothes are the masks that you can put on and become someone else.” FASHION Fashion is a costume. Fashion is something that you can use to hide. Fashion can “change” your personality in a way. Clothes are the masks that you can put on and become someone else, immediately.There is an amazing animation that shows a skeleton with different types of skin.That is how the fashion can be described.A skeleton is a person and the skins are the clothes.You are still the same person but you can hide under different clothes so people can see you differently. STYLE The style is undefined. “People try hard to make their own styles, wear clothes in one particular style. However, there are a lot of fashion houses. Each of them creates totally different style. We are those who mix them up.” said Dawid Duma, also known as David Pride as he has translated his surname from Polish into English. The A I M M A G A Z I N E spoke exclusively to a young fashion designer whose adventure has started because of rollerblading. FROM ROLLERBLADES TO GARMENTS “I have always been a rollerblading freak and it was something that played a huge role in my life. I was only twelve and I already was pushing myself forward in it. I was taking part in different competitions what was connected with going to different places and meeting new people.Those people were usually ten years older than me so I was looking up to them. I was inspired by them. I was looking at them with mystification.What intrigued me the most was that those people were looking totally different than my friends. I was meeting people from around the world. I met many skaters from the US and the way they looked like was such an amazing and new thing for me.”

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FAMILY LINEAGE IN SEWING My grandfather was a sewer, my mother, too. One day, my mum got a sewing machine but she was not using it at all.That was a perfect opportunity for me. I decided to try and start sewing, just for myself. At the beginning, I was only stitching together different fabrics. I was destroying all of my T-shirts and stitching them up again.That was really fun. I was in love with the fashion world. My dream was to create something that looks like in the movie “Devil Wears Prada”. Have you always wanted to be a fashion designer? No, not at all. I have never wanted to be a fashion designer. My dream job was to become an architect. However, I wasn’t really good in drawing so that was one disadvantage. Another was that I have always hated maths. Counting has been my nightmare. That is why I thought I should take another path in my life and start doing something else. As I was sewing for myself and I was becoming better and better in it I decided to choose the fashion designing path. Are you happy with this decision? I am very happy with what I have and where I am now. I currently live in Warsaw and I work for the Maison Anoufa company. I can’t imagine myself somewhere else. Fashion and art have become my life and it is an inherent part of my life. MYSTERIOUS DIPLOMA COLECTION Dawid has not finished his education yet. He is doing a gap year to earn some money so he can afford next years and make collection for the school diploma. “It is very important to make a perfect diploma collection but it needs money for the projects, fabrics etc. That is why I prefer to wait this year, work some, get some more experience and money so I can make my dream come true. A dream of an amazing collection, big fashion show.” Do you have any plans for your diploma collection? Sure. I have an idea but I would prefer not to say anything about it yet. It is my secret plan. However, when it is ready you will be quickly informed. Is there anything you can tell me? I am planning to organise a performance in Paris but it is all I can tell you. I am not going to say anything more. DAWID DUMA CURRENT BRAND Dawid work for the private clients. He design and sew everything himself. When we spoke, he admitted that there is a lot of work even when there is just one simple project. How does the creating process look like? Dawid explained everything in details.

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Essentially, I love to meet new people, getting to know them better. When a client comes to me it takes time to start creating for her as firstly I need to know her more to know who she is and what should I make for her. Here, I usually make a mood board for myself where I put my every idea.The next step is variable. It may be an outline of a project or picking the fabrics. The third step is design - making a journal. I do it everywhere. After that, I draw a technical drawing. What is more, I do not have my own label yet so I perfume all my projects. I use my own perfumes that I use currently. Perfumes are my labels. It makes my projects more personal. “Competitions are very important. If I didn’t take part in one of them I would never be where I am. “ Dawid Duma is a fashion designer whose career in the fashion industry has begun because he took part in the designing competitions, such as OFF Fashion or Mielc Fashion Week. How did you get into OFF Fashion? One day, I saw that there was a fashion competition. I decided to take part in it. I sent some of my projects.I got to the next stage,unexpectedly.It turned out to be an international and very prestigious competition.That was a fascinating experience I was only 16 and I had an opportunity to be in a real fashion world for some time. I created four projects, I had my models and my first fashion show. How did your collection look like? To be fair, I have never had my own real collection because a collection consists about 40 or 60 stylings. The one that I created for OFF Fashion was only a small competition collection that only mirrors some of my ideas. There were only 4 stylings. Can you tell me what inspired you to create those stylings? Chinatown. Chinese life. Chinese culture. What was the name of your small collection for OFF Fashion? Adversus Mundi, what means “against the world”. What do you mean by saying “against the world”? There are many people who try to be different than others. It is very difficult especially when you live in a huge agglomeration such as New York or London. What about Mielc Fashion Week, how did you get there? There was a funny story because one day Ilona Jankowska, an owner of the Models Academy and the fashion show choreograph, contacted me. She told me that she really likes my clothes and she asked me to take part in a competition that she was organising. That was a competition in Mielc. I went there with my collection.

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Model: Magdalena Korpanty

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And you won. What was the price? I got the scholarship for the school MSKPU in Warsaw. You never know what to expect and what opportunities are waiting for you. My advice for everyone is to try as much as you can and take advantages from opportunities you are given. After meeting Dawid, I felt inspired in a way. He is an amazing artist and you could see and hear that he treats fashion design as a piece of stunning art. â&#x20AC;&#x153;In order to be irreplaceable one must always be different.â&#x20AC;? said once Coco Chanel. In my point of view, Dawid Duma is definitely irreplaceable. Dawid, I keep my fingers crossed for you and your further career. I hope to be invited for a fashion show with your collection where all the models will be on rollerblades. How did you know my plan? Both laugh.

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DEVIL WEARS PRADA If you are into fashion you have probably seen this movie, at least once as the premiere was in 2006. Anyway, it is always good to refresh your memory and see it again. I have seen this movie multiple times but I came to see it again some days ago and I realised that this movie sends a very important message to the viewer. An adaptation of the Lauren Weisberger’s 2003 novel. An inconspicuous girl Andrea (“Andy”) Sachs, Anne Hathaway gets the job at the most prestigious American fashion magazine “Runway”. She has always wanted to be a journalist. However, she lands a job as Miranda Priestly’s, the editor in chief of the “Runway”, co-assistant. A girl with no sense of style, who had no idea about the fashion industry gets the job in such a magazine? How? This story shows that nothing is impossible, that the choices you make in life are very important and you’d better think twice before you make a decision. You never know where your decision will lead you. Did Andrea make a good decision? Check it out.

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DIOR

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17 April 2014. A documentary film had its premiere at the Tribeca Film Festival. In 2015 it was widely released in the United States. The story, about designer Raf Simons’s creative work for Christian Dior S.A., was written and directed by Frédéric Tcheng. This movie takes a viewer inside the world of Christian Dior house and shows almost every step of the first production of an haute couture collection by Raf Simons as a new artistic director. How does it look to be in Dior’s shoes? Watch “Dior and I” and see…

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YVES VALENTINO:THE LAST

EMPEROR

Another documentary film about the fashion designer. This time, Matt Tyrnauer, Special Correspondent for Vanity Fair magazine produced and directed a movie about an Italian designer - Valentino Garavani. This film shows his life and the way he conducted his fashion business. However, the key of this movie is a relationship between Valentino and his business partner Giancarlo Giammetti. For me, one and a half hour could be done in 40 minutes and it would be enough. Don’t you think so?

SAINT LAURENT vs SAINT LAURENT

There is no doubt that Yves Saint Laurent was an intriguing person and his life was quite complicated as it often happens when it comes to artists’ lives. Thus, some years ago in 2014 to be precise, Saint Laurent became an object of interest of two film directors - Jalil Lespert and Bertrand Bonello. The first one made a movie “ Yves Saint Laurent’s” that was authorised and supported by Saint Laurent’s partner, Pierre Berge and came out in U.S. cinemas during the summer 2014. The second one was titled “Saint Laurent,” and debuted at the Cannes Film Festival in May 2014. “Saint Laurent” was not authorised by Pierre Berge. Both movies are about the same person, show the same story. His rough relationship with Pierre Berge, his anxiety and escalating substance abuse, and the pressure to be inspired by his muses so he can create amazing garments. However, each story is shown differently by the directors.

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Model: Amelia Krzapa Photo: Wojciech Grabowski

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