VOL. 3, ISSUE 6 | JANUARY 2022
CRAFT SPIRITS
SUPPLY CHAIN WOES
THE GREAT BOTTLENECK BELGIUM & THE NETHERLANDS
THE JENEVER REVIVAL
THE ART, SCIENCE AND BUSINESS OF DISTILLING
ALL-STAR AESTHETICS HONOREES OF THE 2ND ANNUAL CRAFT SPIRITS PACKAGING AWARDS HIT IT OUT OF THE PARK
A PUBLICATION OF THE AMERICAN CR AF T SPIRITS ASSOCIATION
CONTENTS
JANUARY 2022
52
FEATURES 40
They’ve Got the Look A look at all the medalists from the second annual Craft Spirits Packaging Awards
52 56
MEMBER SPOTLIGHT Artfully Finished Milam & Greene Whiskey charts its own path in Texas. BY JON PAGE
56
DISTILLING DESTINATIONS Big Sky, Big Soul Montana’s distilleries put local flavor and fans first. BY KATE BERNOT
62
Jenever’s Shared Heritage Exploring the history and modern revival of jenever in Belgium and the Netherlands
62
BY JEFF CIOLETTI
Cover photography: Jon Page
C R AF TSPIR ITSMAG.COM
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DEPARTMENTS
14
8
Editor’s Note
12
Contributors
NEW SPIRITS 14
Recent releases from Happy Raptor Distilling, Watershed Distillery and more
IMBIBER’S BOOKSHELF 20 INDUSTRY UPDATE 22
22
Kentucky Bourbon Benefit Raises More Than $3 Million for Tornado Relief
LEW’S BOTTOM SHELF 28
The Glorious Rye Awakening BY LEW BRYSON
WHAT’S STIRRING 30
Flavorful concoctions from Eight Oaks Farm Distillery, Far North Spirits and Milam & Greene Whiskey
ACSA AFFAIRS 34
30
A Toast to ACSA’s 8th Annual Distillers’ Convention and Vendor Trade Show Craft Spirits Data Project
SNAPSHOTS 38
Images from ACSA’s 8th Annual Distillers’ Convention and Vendor Trade Show
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C R AF T S PI R I T S MAG .CO M
Stay on top of the news.
68
DISTRIBUTION & LOGISTICS 68
LEGAL CORNER 74
Craft distillers are feeling the impact of supply chain disruptions, especially when it comes to glass bottles.
The Americans with Disabilities Act extends beyond brick-and-mortar operations to the digital world.
BY ANDREW KAPLAN
BY ASHLEY HANKE
Bottle Shock
HUMAN RESOURCES 72 Short-staffed
The long-term plan to ease the labor shortage BY JOHN HOLL
C R AF TSPIR ITSMAG.COM
Is your website ADA compliant?
CLOSING TIME 76 Fair Share
One of the highlights from the 2021 Craft Spirits Data Project
Visit us online at craftspiritsmag.com.
JANUARY 20 22
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CRAFT SPIRITS MAGAZINE C EO, A M E R I C A N C R A F T S P I R I T S A S S O C I AT I O N | Margie A.S. Lehrman, margie@americancraftspirits.org E D I TO R I N C H I E F | Jeff Cioletti, jeff@americancraftspirits.org S E N I O R E D I TO R | Jon Page, jon@americancraftspirits.org S A L E S & D E V E LO P M E N T M A N AG E R | Ashley Guillermo, ashley@americancraftspirits.org A RT D I R EC TO R | Michelle Villas CO N T R I B U TO R S | Kate Bernot, Lew Bryson, Ashley Hanke, John Holl and Andrew Kaplan AMERICAN CRAFT SPIRITS ASSOCIATION E D U C AT I O N CO O R D I N ATO R | Kirstin Brooks, kirstin@americancraftspirits.org M E M B E R O U T R E AC H M A N AG E R | Carason Lehmann, carason@americancraftspirits.org A D M I N I S T R AT I V E AS S I S TA N T | Kallan Dokas kallan@americancraftspirits.org ACSA ADVISORS M E E T I N G S A N D LO G I S T I C S | Stephanie Sadri, HelmsBriscoe S T R AT EG I C CO M M U N I C AT I O N S | Alexandra S. Clough, GATHER PR L EG A L | Ryan Malkin, Malkin Law, P.A. P U B L I C P O L I C Y | Jim Hyland, The Pennsylvania Avenue Group ACSA BOARD OF DIRECTORS, 2020-2021 P R E S I D E N T | Becky Harris, Catoctin Creek Distilling Co. (VA) V I C E P R E S I D E N T | P.T. Wood, Wood’s High Mountain Distillery (CO) S EC R E TA RY/ T R E A S U R E R | Jeff Kanof, Copperworks Distilling Co. (WA)
EAST Ryan Christiansen, Caledonia Spirits (VT) Becky Harris, Catoctin Creek (VA) Jessica J. Lemmon, Cart/Horse Distilling (PA) Tom Potter, New York Distilling Co. (NY)
CENTRAL & MOUNTAIN Gina Holman, J. Carver Distillery (MN) Colin Keegan, Santa Fe Spirits (NM) Thomas Mote, Balcones Distillery (TX) Amber Pollock, Backwards Distilling Company (WY) Colton Weinstein, Corsair Artisan Distillery (TN) P.T. Wood, Wood’s High Mountain Distillery (CO)
PACIFIC Dan Farber, Osocalis Distillery (CA) Jake Holshue, Rogue Ales & Spirits (OR) Jeff Kanof, Copperworks Distilling Company (WA) Molly Troupe, Freeland Spirits (OR)
EX OFFICIO Thomas Jensen, New Liberty Distillery (PA) ACSA PAC Stephen Johnson, Genius Liquids (TX) ACSA PAST PRESIDENTS 2 0 1 9 -2 0 2 0 | Chris Montana, Du Nord Craft Spirits 2 0 1 7-2 0 1 8 | Mark Shilling, Genius Liquids/Big Thirst 2 0 1 6 -2 0 1 7 | Paul Hletko, FEW Spirits 2 0 1 4 -2 0 1 6 | Tom Mooney, House Spirits CRAFT SPIRITS MAGAZINE EDITORIAL BOARD Eli Aguilera, Lew Bryson, Alexandra Clough, Sly Cosmopoulos, Dan Gasper, Dr. Dawn Maskell For advertising inquiries, please contact Ashley Guillermo: ashley@americancraftspirits.org. For editorial inquiries or to send a news release, e-mail news@americancraftspirits.org. P.O. Box 470, Oakton, VA 22124 © 2022 CRAFT SPIRITS magazine is a publication of the American Craft Spirits Association.
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Editor’s Note
ȚUICĂ, AND YE SHALL FIND Mainly because we have this inability to stay put, my wife and I spent Christmas 2021 in Romania. No, neither of us has family ties in the country, we’d just never been and thought it would be a cool place to spend the holidays (and it was!). It was the fourth time I left the country since August (I’ve taken A LOT of COVID tests to re-enter the United States in the past half-year). And each subsequent journey was more instructive than the last. We returned a few days before the New Year, which got me thinking of my first book, “The Year of Drinking Adventurously.” The point of it was to try something new in each of the 52 weeks between January 1 and December 31. (Don’t worry, I have a point! I’m not just tooting my own horn.) Little did I know when I first pitched the idea that I was, more often than not, encouraging readers to try something old—cultural traditions that often were lost to time or usurped in the market by modern trends and shiny new objects. These are the beverages that often have been dismissed as “what my grandparents drank,” as younger generations have gravitated toward craft cocktails and globally buzzy spirits categories like whiskey, gin, agave and amari. Look, I love an Old Fashioned and a French 75 as much as the next person, but I’d rather drink those at my neighborhood bars. When I’m traveling, I want whatever it is that made the city, region or country I’m visiting unique, regardless of how hard it is to find in mainstream establishments. In Romania, I finally had the chance to try Țuică, a plum brandy that my colleague, ACSA education coordinator Kirstin Brooks, has frequently waxed rhapsodic about, recalling her Peace Corps days in the country. I had naively assumed that Țuică was just the Romanian equivalent of what Hungary calls Palinka, but little did I know that Romania had its own eau de vie called Palinca (spelled with a ‘c.’) Like Țuică, Palinca is made from plums. But the primary difference is that Țuică is distilled once and Paliinca is distilled twice. Țuică’s usually 32% ABV, while Palinca’s a heftier 50%. I would never have known this without traveling and seeking out the local spirits. The worldwide spirits industry, including American craft
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producers, owe a huge debt of gratitude to bartenders leading the international cocktail explosion. But oftentimes a cocktail bar in Rome is indistinguishable from one in San Francisco. A speakeasy in Buenos Aires is identical to a speakeasy in Sydney—as is its menu. I’m well aware of the notion that you’ve got to give the people what they want, but that doesn’t necessarily mean that the global drinks scene needs to fully succumb to homogeneity. There should be a balance between giving consumers what they want and giving them what they need—a need to occasionally have a drop of education in their ocean of entertainment. As you’ll read in my jenever story on page 62, some Amsterdam bars are remarkably adept at doing that in relation to their own regional spirit. Tess Posthumus’s Flying Dutchmen is the perfect case study in how to showcase a country’s traditional, centuries-old beverage within the context of modern mixology. The same can be said for a place like The Blind Pig in Dublin. While the underground bar sports many of the usual trappings of a speakeasy, its architecture and some of its drinks list are distinctly Irish. You’ll find the local moonshine, poitin, in more than a couple of the recipes. There’s practically an entire parallel universe of largely undiscovered traditional spirits. Get out there and explore them—as much as the pandemic will allow, of course. There’s so much that American craft spirits producers of the present can learn from international distillers of the past to inform the industry’s future worldwide. ■
Jeff Cioletti Editor in Chief
C R AF T S PI R I T S MAG .CO M
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Arglass
Bardstown Bourbon Co.
In an industry largely focused on products with long production runs, we offer a superior alternative based on our three principles: flexibility, efficiency and sustainability. Arglass transforms the U.S. glass container market with a network of next-generation manufacturing plants operating with those same principles. arglass.us
Bardstown Bourbon Co. operates one of the most sophisticated distilleries in the country. Our Collaborative Distilling Program brings together some of the most experienced distillers in the industry, allowing our customers to create alongside us and drives education, innovation and experimentation. bardstownbourbon.com
Export-Import Bank of the United States A U.S. federal government agency with the mission of supporting U.S.-based jobs by facilitating U.S. exports. We help companies of all sizes compete for global sales by offering financing solutions including export credit insurance and more. exim.gov
FIVE x 5 Solutions
Glencairn Crystal
FIVE x 5 Solutions believes that software should scale with you. We’re more than a service provider: we’re a committed partner in your distillery’s success, and take pride in providing the most complete solution for your growing operation. We take your business as seriously as you do. Fx5solutions.com
Glencairn Crystal is a leading manufacturer of bespoke crystal and glass. For over three decades, this family business, based in Scotland, has gained an international reputation for fine crystal and glassware. Best known for the creation of the Glencairn Glass, the official glass for whisky. glencairn.co.uk
Malkin Law
Moonshine University
Park Street
We help liquor brands create better futures. 3x3 is a data-driven shopper engagement partner for brands and retailers in the beer, wine and spirits industry. We blend marketing technology with expert insight to help brands and retailers connect with shoppers who will love their products. 3x3.us
Malkin Law focuses on serving the needs of the alcohol beverage industry. We regularly assist with licensing, review of industry specific agreements, trade practices and navigating state laws. Malkin Law is also honored to be Legal Counsel for ACSA. malkinlawfirm.com
Tapì
The nation’s premier educational distillery, bringing together specialists from every facet of the industry to provide education, training and professional services to start-ups and existing companies. Moonshine University is housed next door to sister company Flavorman, an international custom beverage development company. moonshineuniversity.com
Tapì is an international group specializing in the design and production of miniature packaging design masterpieces. Our closures are based on cutting-edge functionality and technology, with an exclusive style that elegantly showcases each product. tapigroup.com
Park Street delivers productivityenhancing and cost-saving back-office solutions, advisory services, working capital, compliance management, export solution, integrated accounting and human resources management solutions to more than 14,000 alcoholic beverage brands from the U.S. and around the world. parkstreet.com
Thousand Oaks Barrel Co.
Thousand Oak Barrel Co. manufactures barrels to age and serve your spirits. All products offer a variety of options for customizing and branding with your personalized design. 1000oaksbarrel.com
Berlin Packaging
Berlin Packaging, the only Hybrid Packaging Supplier® of plastic, glass and metal containers & closures, supplies billions of items annually, along with package design, financing, consulting, warehousing and logistics services. We bring together the best of manufacturing, distribution & income-adding service providers. berlinpackaging.com
Image Apparel Solutions
Your full, turn-key, branding solution. As your partner in all things logo, spirit and athletic wear, let our 25-plus years of experience work for you. We provide top-notch service with the highest attention to detail. Our in house design and production team work with you to get every project delivered on time. image-apparel-solutions.com
Saverglass
Saverglass provides for premium and super-premium spirits, still & sparkling wines and craft beers. Recognized for its innovation, its glass-making expertise and the quality of its glass, products and designs, Saverglass is the partner of choice for brand creators, craft makers and the largest wine and spirits groups worldwide. saverglass.com
Top Shelf Logistics
Top Shelf Logistics is a best-in-class freight provider focused solely on the spirits industry, providing clients industry proven sustainable domestic transportation capacity, service and value. topshelflogistics.com
The American Craft Spirits Association would like to thank all of our annual sponsors and our key supporters of education. We are grateful for all of your support throughout the year. Cheers!
Blue & Co., LLC
Blue & Co., LLC is an independent accounting and advisory firm with more than 50 years in operation. Our public accounting expertise includes the practice areas of assurance, tax compliance and consulting, healthcare consulting, benefit plan services, valuation and litigation support, and business services. blueandco.com
Briess Malt & Ingredients Co. Since 1876, we’ve been supplying the highest quality malts in the industry. We’ve distinguished ourselves by developing the most extensive line of specialty malts made by any malting company in the world. We provide everything from malts to pure malt extracts, brewers flakes and filtering aids. briess.com
BSG Distilling
As the craft distilling industry grows, BSG Distilling has been focused on supplying distillers with the best ingredients from around the world. Today, the craft distilling market trusts BSG Distilling to deliver the finest ingredients at competitive prices, without sacrificing customer service. bsgdistilling.com
CIE
CIE is a state-of-the-art, 75 million wine gallon, beverage and industrial graded, commercial scale, alcohol facility located in Marion, Indiana. CIE supplies pure and denatured alcohols to customers in the spirit, beauty, personal care, medical, food-flavor and industrial markets. cie.us
LALLEMAND BIOFUELS & DISTILLED SPIRITS
Independent Stave Co.
We’ve been in this industry for over 100 years, during which time we’ve learned a thing or two about what makes a great barrel to age great spirits. We have hundreds of barrels currently in experimentation. Partnering with distillers, we think outside the box to develop new products that push your vision forward. iscbarrels.com
ISTS
Since 2001, ISTS has offered costeffective, solid expertise in safety training, consulting and management services. We make workplaces safer, employees ready and compliance uncomplicated. ISTS has extensive experience working with the spirits industry, so our programs are totally customized to address your site. istsky.com
Lafitte Cork and Capsule
Lafitte Cork and Capsule is setting new standards for premium, high performance bar top closures, geared specifically toward luxury spirits, high end oil and vinegar. Lafitte employs the technical expertise accumulated over 100 years in business to guarantee the perfect closure for your brand lafitte-usa.com
Lallemand Biofuels & Distilled Spirits
The leader in supplying fermentation products and services to the distilled spirits industry, we specialize in the research, development, production, and marketing of yeast, yeast nutrients, enzymes, and bacteria; as well as a solid belief in education of the distilled spirits industry. lallemandcraftdistilling.com
S PECIFIC
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Soderstrom Architects
Sovos ShipCompliant
Specific Mechanical Systems
Ultra Pure
Whalen Insurance
Wine & Spirits Wholesalers of America
Soderstrom Architects’ Ferar Wine & Spirits Studio has been involved in the design and master planning of more than 70 wineries and distilleries. Our studio was founded nearly 30 years ago with a passion for design that conveys the special sense of place inherent in the site, be it a vineyard or a city block. sdra.com
Signature Spirits, a division of Ultra Pure, is the leading independent supplier of bulk spirits in the U.S. and has the largest selection of alcohols stocked across its nine warehouses. We supply approximately 1,000 distilleries and brand owners with virtually every type of alcohol. ultrapure-usa.com
Sovos ShipCompliant has been the leader in automated alcohol beverage compliance tools for more than 15 years, providing a full suite of cloudbased solutions to distilleries, wineries, breweries, cideries, importers, distributors and retailers to ensure they meet all regulations for direct-toconsumer and three-tier distribution. sovos.com/shipcompliant
Whalen Insurance is a second-generation insurance agency owned and operated by Peter Whalen. He started a program for craft breweries in the mid 1980s and expanded to craft distilleries almost 10 years ago. It provides all property and liability coverages needed to safely operate a distillery. whaleninsurance.com
Since 1984, Specific Mechanical Systems has handcrafted brewing and distilling systems for the craft beer and spirits industries, in addition to supplying various industries with complex processing equipment. Originally a two-person company, the company now employs a team of approximately 100 people. specificmechanical.com
The Wine & Spirits Wholesalers of America (WSWA) is the national trade association representing the wholesale tier of the wine and spirits industry. It is dedicated to advancing the interests and independence of wholesale distributors and brokers of wine and spirits. wswa.org
Supercap
Supercap has been producing closures for spirits since 1999. We are present in the United States with a great sales network with partners and agents, thus being able to help and advise you in the choice of the best stopper for your spirits. supercap.it
WV Great Barrel Co.
The best-performing whiskey barrel on the market, precision built in the heart of Appalachia. Infrared toast and controlled char standard on every barrel. wvgbc.com/
Contributors
Lew Bryson has been writing about beer and spirits full-time since 1995. He was the managing editor of Whisky Advocate from 1996 through 2015, where he also wrote the American Spirits column, and reviewed whiskeys. He is currently a Senior Drinks Writer for the Daily Beast, and also writes for WhiskeyWash.com, American Whiskey and Bourbon+. He is the author of “Tasting Whiskey” (Storey Publishing, 2014), a broad survey of the whiskeys of the world, their history and manufacture. He has also written four regional brewery guidebooks.
Ashley Hanke is an attorney at Malkin Law P.A. practicing alcohol beverage and cannabis law. She holds a Bachelor of Arts degree in Legal Studies from the University of Massachusetts, Amherst and a Juris Doctorate from Western New England University, School of Law. She has had a long-standing interest in the alcohol and cannabis industry and her desire to pursue a career in the field was solidified after working on a vineyard in Tuscany.
Andrew Kaplan is a freelance writer based in New York City. He was managing editor of Beverage World magazine for 14 years and has worked for a variety of other food and beverage-related publications, and also newspapers. Follow him on Twitter @andrewkap.
John Holl is a journalist covering the beer industry. He’s the author of several books including “Drink Beer, Think Beer: Getting to the Bottom of Every Pint” and “The American Craft Beer Cookbook.” He is the co-host of the podcast Steal This Beer, and his work has appeared in The New York Times, The Washington Post, Wine Enthusiast and more. John has lectured on the culture and history of beer and judged beer competitions around the world.
Michelle Villas is an art director with more than 20 years experience in publication design. After spending 16 years working on magazines in New York for a variety of titles, incuding Beverage World, Michelle headed out to California where she now calls the South Bay home. She is the creative director on a range of lifestyle publications for The Golden State Company. A true typophile, she carries her obsession with fonts into every project.
Kate Bernot is a reporter covering beer, food, and spirits. She was formerly an editor at The Takeout and DRAFT Magazine; she now regularly writes for Good Beer Hunting, Craft Beer & Brewing, and other publications. She is a certified beer judge and lives in Missoula, Montana, with three backyard chickens and a wellstocked bar cart.
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New Spirits
Columbus, Ohio-based Watershed Distillery debuted a special batch of Nocino made with bourbon (Bourcino) exclusively at its annual Nocinofest. Watershed began making Nocino, a traditional Italian liqueur crafted from walnuts, in 2014 and remains one of the few producers in the U.S. Bourcino is the first-of-its-kind Nocino made with bourbon instead of the traditional vodka. Bourcino is a distillery-exclusive limited release bottled at 53.2 proof.
Boardroom Spirits of Lansdale, Pennsylvania, recently announced the seasonal release of its annual holiday spirit, Nocino (58 proof), as well as ready-to-drink cocktails, Black Walnut Bourbon and the Nutty Russian, using the green walnut-based liqueur.
Dashfire, a familyowned artisanal bitters and cocktail company based in Minnetonka, Minnesota, introduced an Old Fashioned variety pack. The threepack of 100-mL cans includes the classic Bourbon with notes of orange and cherry, Cane & Allspice, and Rye & Ginger. Firefly Distillery of North Charleston, South Carolina, partnered with nearby craft brewery, Holy City Brewing, to release Double Barrel Drive By, a new limited edition malt mash whiskey and barleywine ale pairing. An ode to the proximity of the brewery and distillery, Double Barrel Drive By brings together two of Charleston’s best craft alcohol makers.
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C R AF T S PI R I T S MAG .CO M
New Spirits
Shmaltz Brewing Co. of Troy, New York, announced the release of Shmaltz Liquor Small Batch Number One. Owner Jeremy Cowan says that the 88-proof spirit consists of four years of Jewbelation Anniversary beers distilled at St. George Spirits in 2010. It was aged for nine years in Pappy Van Winkle and Buffalo Trade barrels, and blended by Yankee Distillers.
Austrian Farms of Texas (AFT) Distillery of Luling Texas, announced the release of the first limited edition 93-proof oak aged Alpengold Cherry Edelbrand. Commonly bottled at 77-84 proof, the latest batch of the Alpengold Texas Oak Reserve Cherry Brandy resulted in such extraordinary taste and smoothness, that Alexandra Cantwell, the master Edelbrand distiller, decided to reserve a small amount at the strength of 93 proof for a special and very limited release.
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Pittsburgh-based Wigle Whiskey announced the return of its 92-proof Phil’s Shadow Whiskey. The Wigle collaboration with the Punxsutawney Groundhog Club celebrates two Pennsylvania institutions with unbridled enthusiasm for the quirky traditions of the Keystone State. To honor Groundhog Phil, Wigle combined its award-winning Pennsylvania Straight Rye Whiskey and the tradition of Pennsylvania maple syrup production to create a bold, spicy spirit complemented by a pronounced, rich maple sweetness.
Happy Raptor Distilling of New Orleans announced the second annual seasonal release of its bestselling infused rum, 504King Cake. Produced exclusively for Carnival season, this 78.8-proof rum infusion is handcrafted in the Crescent City from only real ingredients and 100% Louisiana molasses.
C R AF T S PI R I T S MAG .CO M
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New Spirits
Scobeyville, New Jerseybased Laird & Co. announced plans to bottle its 12-Year-Old Rare Apple Brandy after an absence in the market for two years. Due to a lack of aged apple brandy, the producer of America’s first spirit has not bottled the product since October of 2018, when the company released only 762 bottles. The company reports that it will release 1,800 bottles in early 2022.
Middle West Spirits of Columbus, Ohio, recently announced the release of its Double Cask Collection, including Sherry CaskFinished Bourbon (97.25 proof), Oloroso Wheat Whiskey (100 proof), and the distillery’s newest product: Ported Pumpernickel Rye Whiskey (99.5 proof). Releasing for the first time are single barrel cask strength iterations of each, as well.
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Widow Jane Distillery announced the release of The Vaults 2021, the third edition in an old-andrare whiskey collection from the Brooklyn, New York-based brand. The 99-proof 2021 release marries 15–17 year old bourbons that have been carefully selected by Widow Jane president and head distiller Lisa Wicker from the brand’s stocks housed at its Conover Street rickhouse in Red Hook, Brooklyn. Just over 3,000 bottles of The Vaults 2021 are being released to the public.
St. George Spirits of Alameda, California, announced the release of Ruthless, a long-inthe-works collaboration with Sierra Nevada Brewing Co. Distilled and laid down in new American oak and used French oak port casks back in 2013, the 90-proof Ruthless also incorporates some of the very first barrel of Single Malt Whiskey that was brewed for St. George by Sierra Nevada back in 1997 and aged in used bourbon cask.
C R AF T S PI R I T S MAG .CO M
New Spirits
Copperworks Distilling Co. of Seattle has joined more than 1,000 breweries in the fight for change and racial justice, with its Black is Beautiful Whiskey release. The Black is Beautiful initiative is a collaborative effort amongst the brewing community and its customers, to bring awareness to the injustices that many people of color face daily. While this initiative started as a call to action specifically to brewers, Copperworks asked to join the cause and produced this 100-proof whiskey.
Brew Pipeline recently announced the launch of Motörhead Ace of Spades Straight Bourbon, its latest collaboration with rock legends, Motörhead. The 90-proof bourbon is produced and bottled by Proof Artisan Distillers in Fargo, North Dakota.
C R AF TSPIR ITSMAG.COM
Maverick Whiskey of San Antonio is releasing its limited-edition Samuel Maverick Barrel Proof Straight Bourbon Whiskey, a Certified Texas Whiskey produced in the Lone Star State. The 114-proof Samuel Maverick Barrel Proof Straight Bourbon Whiskey is pot-distilled and bottled at barrel proof.
Crater Lake Spirits of Bend, Oregon, has introduced a limited release bottle, Aged Rum from the Crater Lake Rare Spirits Collection. Aged five years, the 80-proof rum was distilled in St. Croix and aged in new American oak barrels in Bend. It has a long finish of subtle spice and turbinado sugar, leaving a pleasant sweetness that stays on the palate.
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Imbiber’s Bookshelf
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Bourbon: The Story of Kentucky Whiskey Author: Clay Risen Publisher: Ten Speed Press Release Date: Dec. 14, 2021 Whiskey expert Clay Risen explores the origins, history, and evolution of America’s distilling craft and culture in this luxurious boxed set. From boom to bust and back again, Risen tells the engrossing story of Kentucky whiskey, using interviews, photographs and archival material to illuminate the singular region where bourbon was born. This meticulously researched book details how bourbon is made, how best to enjoy it, and how to build your own collection, along with profiles of the distilleries and makers that form the landscape of bourbon country.
Drink Whiskey Editor: Taylor Bentley Publisher: Whalen Book Works Release Date: Jan. 25 With dozens of enduring classics and modern originals to choose from, “Drink Whiskey” is an essential guide for those looking to craft an impeccable drink. Inside an irresistible amber foil hardcover, you’ll find more than 40 gorgeous photographs, and “Drink Whiskey” features over 60 top-notch recipes for classic and craft cocktails made with the well-loved spirit.
Gin: The Ultimate Companion Author: Ian Buxton Publisher: Birlinn Release Date: Dec. 14, 2021 The 21st century’s own gin craze continues unabated, with exciting new crafted gins launched on a regular basis. Most recently, we have seen growing interest in pink gins and the development of a range of flavored gins, not to mention the remarkable rise of tonics— with a tonic to suit every palate, and perhaps every gin. So naturally, leading spirits writer Ian Buxton has looked to revise and renew his focus on this most fashionable of spirits. In this book he brings his customary wit, industry knowledge and highly developed palate to this fastevolving and dynamic market with enthusiastic, book-buying drinkers keen for more insights.
Churchill’s Cocktails Publisher: Imperial War Museums Release Date: Dec. 24, 2021 This charming book features dozens of cocktail recipes, each accompanied by detailed instructions, an ingredients list and a short description of how the drink is inspired by former British Prime Minister Winston Churchill. Photographs of the cocktails at Churchill War Rooms or the Churchill Bar accompany each recipe, and archival images of Churchill himself, drawn from the Imperial War Museums collection, tie the volume together. Published in association with the Churchill Bar at the Hyatt Regency Churchill in London, this is the ideal gift for anyone who likes a glass of something strong mixed with a splash of history.
C R AF T S PI R I T S MAG .CO M
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Industry Update
KENTUCKY BOURBON BENEFIT RAISES MORE THAN $3 MILLION FOR TORNADO RELIEF The Kentucky Bourbon Benefit auction of rare bottles, private barrel selections and more raised over $3 million to help ease suffering and restore hope for residents of Western Kentucky whose communities were ravaged by a tornado outbreak in December. The Kentucky Distillers’ Association partnered with the Bourbon Crusaders charitable organization and Bourbon curator Fred Minnick on the six-day auction. The fundraiser culminated with a live-streamed finale which alone raised $1.77 million. The total was $3.4 million. Proceeds from the benefit are going to the Team Western Kentucky Tornado Relief Fund. The state-operated fund assesses no fees on donations. The American Craft Spirits Association offered two full registrations for its 9th Annual Distillers’ Convention and Vendor Trade Show (and an hour of one-on-one time with an officer of our board of directors) to be held in July in New Orleans. Angel’s Envy, Beam Suntory, Brown-Forman, Diageo, Four Roses, Heaven Hill, Michter’s, Rabbit Hole and Wild Turkey also do-
nated in excess of $1 million directly to the state’s fund, and Beam Suntory gave an additional $500,000 to the American Red Cross. Those donations bring the distilling industry’s total impact to nearly $5 million. “The outpouring of support, care and love for Western Kentuckians is truly unparalleled in the history of Bourbon. We are forever grateful for the generosity of distillers, donors and bidders,” KDA president Eric Gregory said in a press release. “Through this event, thousands of participants are helping lift spirits across Western Kentucky, provide new hope and create momentum for the years of rebuilding and healing ahead. This is the spirit of Kentucky shining through.” Minnick, a best-selling author and Bourbon expert, said the auction’s success demonstrates the fabric of Kentuckians and Americans. “In life, you get a handful of moments you hope to relive in your final moments. Tuesday night was one for me,” he said. “The only comparison I have for what happened here was going to Iraq as a soldier and experiencing the full depth of the American military coming together under one mission. My team worked with two highly professional organizations in the Bourbon Crusaders and the KDA. “While different than my Army days, I believe the Kentucky Bourbon Benefit repre-
sented the best of America. At the core of who we are, we are a people who want to help our neighbor. And in Kentucky, our neighbors needed our help,” Minnick said. “The response was tremendous, far beyond our wildest hopes,” said R.J. Sargent, founder of the Bourbon Crusaders. “Our members pulled out treasures from their collections, and the community responded enthusiastically. “You can see it in the auction results. These rarities attracted lots of bids, and every dollar raised is going to be used to help Kentucky.” A total of 5,158 bidders vied for the benefit auction’s 429 lots. Bidders came from at least all 50 states, Washington D.C. and as far away as Puerto Rico and Guam. Kentucky, by far, led the way with nearly 1,000 registered bidders. The total amount raised from the Kentucky Bourbon Benefit will continue to climb throughout the coming days as final results are tallied, including matches from Vendome Copper & Brass, Independent Stave Company and the Kentucky Travel Industry Association.
SMUGGLERS’ NOTCH DONATES $10,000 TO CANCER CENTER Made possible by the support of their community and customers who purchase Gluten-Free Organic Vodka, Jeffersonville, Vermont-based Smugglers’ Notch Distillery recently made a donation in the amount of $10,000 to the University of Vermont Cancer Center, which is dedicated to “advancing the prevention, detection, treatment, and survivorship of cancer.” Jeremy Elliott, president and co-owner of Smugglers’ Notch Distillery, who is also a graduate of the University of Vermont, explained the motivation to support this cause in a press release. “A few years ago, my father and I decided to make a difference in the fight against cancer. We had known too many friends and family members that fell victim to this killer. “As we thought about what we could do to help, it was decided that we would launch a new product and donate one dollar of every bottle sold
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to Cancer Research. Our Gluten-Free Organic Vodka was born. This product has many positive attributes associated with it and has the potential to reach and educate consumers throughout the world. We see a tremendous opportunity to work side by side with the UVM Cancer Center and spread the word. “As individuals who have seen the effects of cancer all around us, the SND Family is grateful to be able to make a difference.”
C R AF T S PI R I T S MAG .CO M
Industry Update
COPPERWORKS DONATES MORE THAN $17,000 TO KENTUCKY TORNADO RELIEF Seattle-based Copperworks Distilling Co. is donating more than $17,000 to tornado relief efforts in Kentucky. On Dec. 16, the distillery announced a special whiskey release, Copperworks Kentucky Tornado Relief Single Malt Whiskey, and pledged to donate $40 to the Team Western Kentucky Tornado Relief Fund for every bottle sold. In five days, Copperworks had sold half of the 430 bottles. The co-owners decided to send a check for the entire amount of $17,200 ($40 from each of the 430 bottles to be sold.) “We want to assist the people of Kentucky immediately,” said Jason Parker, co-owner and president of Copperworks. “We’re still pre-selling dozens of bottles daily, and in the meantime, we wanted to be sure to get donations to the folks in need as quickly as possible.” Parker grew up in Bowling Green, Kentucky. On Dec. 11, he was in town visiting family when tornadoes ripped through his hometown, leaving a trail of destruction. Parker’s family and friends are all safe, and most didn’t suffer tornado damage. But one friend’s home was demolished, and the Parker family joined other friends, neighbors, and volunteers to sort through the rubble. “The community quickly coalesced into a team with a sense of purpose,” said Parker. “We worked with folks we’d never met, doing salvage jobs we’d never done before. We were mostly quiet, sometimes making small comments or light jokes to keep the effort bearable. Due to a short visit and having commitments back in Seattle, we were only physically able to help with one house.”
TILRAY ACQUIRES BRECKENRIDGE DISTILLERY Tilray, Inc., a global cannabis-lifestyle and consumer packaged goods company, recently announced the acquisition of Breckenridge Distillery of Breckenridge, Colorado. “Tilray’s strength lies in our ability to identify and significantly expand leading CPG lifestyle brands that resonate powerfully with consumers,” said Irwin D. Simon, Tilray’s chairman and CEO, in a press release. “Breckenridge Distillery is an iconic addition to our platform in this respect based on its portfolio of award-winning spirits, passionate consumer engagement, and a strong sales and distribution network. We see tremendous potential for Breckenridge and our existing SweetWater brand to complement each other, expanding their respective reach and driving further profitable growth in our beverage alcohol segment. Mr. Simon continued, ery transaction is consistent with Tilray’s strategy of leveraging our growing portfolio of U.S. CPG brands to launch THC-based product adjacencies upon federal legalization in the U.S. These significant, diversified revenue streams are key to delivering on our ultimate goal of industry leadership with $4 billion in revenue by the end of fiscal year 2024.” Bryan Nolt, Breckenridge Distillery’s founder and CEO, added, “We are excited to join Tilray and drive revenue growth as part of its global and leading CPG and cannabis-lifestyle platform.”
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C R AF T S PI R I T S MAG .CO M
Industry Update
VICTOR GEORGE VODKA OWNER AWARDED $2.4 MILLION TO BUILD FORT LAUDERDALE’S FIRST BLACK-OWNED DISTILLERY Black-owned Victor George Spirits of Fort Lauderdale, Florida, announced the Fort Lauderdale Community Redevelopment Agency (CRA) board voted unanimously to provide $2.45 million to help fund construction cost of a 15,000-square-foot facility that will house a distillery, restaurant, cigar bar, whiskey lounge, co-working space and a rooftop bar and lounge located on historic Sistrunk Blvd. Victor G Harvey, owner of nationally distributed Victor George Vodka “VG”, through his development company, Northeast 6th Development, will use the forgivable loan alongside his own investment and financing provided by a local bank to help transform a once-vibrant area back to a destination where neighborhood residents, out-of-town visitors and other locals can dine, drink and tour the distillery, tasting new and unique craft spirits. This new building will be named The Victory Building after the historic Victory Theatre once located on Sistrunk. This was the mecca of entertainment for Black people in Fort Lauderdale and the only theatre they could attend up until the end of segregation in 1964. “As our core brand VG continues to grow nationwide, we are committed to helping our own city grow, particularly the Sistrunk corridor,” said Harvey. “This has been a long process, but we stayed the course. Through these difficult times our focus was to keep all of our employees working and get to this point, which we were able to do. This building will allow the creation of several more job opportunities, with most of the hiring coming from within the neighborhood.”
Alongside Harvey, a spirits industry veteran Matthew Spinozzi, who holds an MSC in Brewing & Distilling from Heriot-Watt University, has been brought on board to oversee operations at the distillery. Spinozzi is a spirits consultant, and, previously the chief of science and distilling for Matchbook Distilling Co., teaching classes on the flavor science of beverages at the American Distilling Institute, the Bar Institute, and the University of Gastronomic Sciences. Spinozzi is featured on Discovery Channel’s “Master Distiller.” He is also a volunteer firefighter and EMT. The duo will work together to add additional product lines including whiskey, tequila, hard seltzers as well as non-alcoholic beverages. VG Vodka is distributed in 44 states and available at most major retailers nationwide including Albertsons, Kroger, Trader Joes and more.
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Industry Update
DRIFTLESS GLEN DISTILLERY AND PARTNERS DONATE NEARLY $15,000 TO LOCAL CANCER RESEARCH Donations from Baraboo, Wisconsin-based Driftless Glen Distillery’s Pink Bourbon Campaign totaled $14,562. Driftless Glen Distillery released a limited-edition pink-label bourbon in October of 2021 for Breast Cancer Awareness Month. This was a joint effort to help raise awareness and funds for a cause near and dear to many hearts. Three dollars from each pink bottle of bourbon sold went directly to local cancer research. Each distributor selected a local cancer center to receive the funds. Proceeds from the bottles sold at the distillery in Baraboo went to the UW Carbone Cancer Center (specifically the Breast Cancer Research Greatest Need Fund), while proceeds from bottles sold elsewhere around Wisconsin went to the distributors’ choice of foundations. The inaugural year of Driftless Glen’s #GoPinkWithDG campaign was a successful starting point and they look forward to making it an annual event. Look for pink bottles again next year, in October of 2022, with new labels that have an even larger pop of pink. Driftless Glen sends its heartfelt thanks to those who participated in this year’s pink bourbon campaign. The distillery is proud to make these great donations to local cancer research.
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C R AF T S PI R I T S MAG .CO M
Industry Update
DISTILLERIES PARTNER WITH CORPORATIONS ON ONE-OFF VODKAS In a marriage of fast food and craft spirits, Arby’s has teamed up with Minneapolis-based Tattersall Distilling for two limited-edition vodkas: Arby’s Curly Fry Flavored Vodka and Arby’s Crinkle Fry Flavored Vodka. Not to be outdone, Frito-Lay and Portland, Oregonbased Eastside Distilling released Lay’s Potato Vodka. Both vodkas are sold out. Eastside’s vodka is made in part with the same potatoes used for Lay’s potato chips; and Tattersall co-founder and chief officer Jon Kreidler told Twin Cities Business that the Crinkle Fry Flavored Vodka is flavored with Kosher salt and sugar, while the Curly Fry Flavored Vodka is flavored with cayenne, paprika, onion and black pepper. Kreidler also said that Arby’s approached the distillery and “wanted to do something unique to announce their new crinkle fries,” and added that the project is a limited-term engagement. “The bottles are extremely limited,” Kreidler said. “We have a couple more [partnerships] in the works that we are extremely excited about and will hopefully become a part of our ongoing portfolio of spirits. … We’re hoping to have more information out publicly this winter and think our local supporters will be very excited about them.” Tattersall also recently announced the opening of its new destination distillery in River Falls, Wisconsin. The 75,000-square-foot facility has a strong focus on sustainability, houses its first-ever restaurant, features indoor and outdoor event spaces and a large retail market. The River Falls location allows Tattersall to produce up to 200,000 proof gallons of spirits with room for growth, while also maintaining production and its cocktail room in Minneapolis.
Jon Kreidler and Dan Oskey at Tattersall’s new distillery in Wisconsin
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lew's bottom shelf
THE GLORIOUS RYE AWAKENING BY LEW BRYSON
I recently did a piece for The Daily Beast on non-American rye whiskeys. I wrote about how craft distillers in Europe are getting going on rye whiskey. Canadians like Crown Royal Northern Harvest, Canadian Club 100% Rye and the always 100% Alberta Premium Cask Strength are putting the truth into Canadian rye. The whole thing was triggered by the Johnnie Walker High Rye Blended Scotch, which, hey, when Johnnie Walker decides to put “rye” on the label, this grain has come in from the cold. I saw that, and started contacting distillers and asking questions. As they are wont to do, when they heard I was writing about their products, they started sending samples (God bless them). And that’s when I realized just how much we can do with rye. Because wow, these whiskeys challenged my ideas of what rye is.
The Dutch Millstone rye is pot stilled and oilyrich. The Danish Stauning rye is pot-stilled on grain, and tastes like—pardon my image notes—eating rye bread with butter in a windswept field. It’s just that fresh and roasty. The English brewer Adnams made a whiskey from their rye beer that is as dry and crisp as any craft rye you can name. The German Eifel was … well, unique, aged in Bordeaux casks and finished in Islay whisky barrels. The Johnnie Walker? The rye comes from rye-heavy grain whisky from Cameronbridge, but also from a single grain rye mash, potstilled (after running through a mash filter!) at Teaninich. Imagine Johnnie Walker Black with the crisp, edgy zip of rye; that’s a fun whisky. Now think about the whiskey everyone was talking about months ago: Todd Leopold’s 3-chamber rye, with its deep flavor and
luxurious, almost unctuous mouthfeel. Think about the flavorful Abruzzi rye he’s using, the resurrection of Rosen rye in Pennsylvania and Michigan, and the Polish-origin Danko rye that New York distillers are running wild with. Did I say New York distillers? Empire Rye, it’s a thing! I just did a piece on whiskey terroir that recalls Dave Pickerell’s ideas about the effects of terroir on rye flavor. I recently visited West Overton Village, the literal home of Abe “Old” Overholt, to meet with rye whiskey historians David Wondrich and Sam Komlenic, and Steve Bashore of George Washington’s Mount Vernon to hash out the identity and future of Monongahela Rye. One of the keys to Monongahela rye is the use of malted rye (and no corn). Malted rye makes a whole different animal, and adds flavors and aromas you just can’t get with raw rye.
We may just be at the dawning of the Age Of Rye.
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It makes 100% rye whiskeys possible, or you can use enzymes, like the Canadians. Don’t get your knickers twisted over enzymes, either. A lot of you are already using them, and if you can detect that by taste, you’ll be the first. What about age? Rye has a unique relationship with time in the barrel. Every time I talk to Sam Komlenic about rye whiskey, one of us will quote Fritz Maytag from a 2006 rye roundtable interview: “I submit to you, that all of you will come to understand and appreciate the beauty of young rye whiskey.” I used to be surprised by how good rye whiskeys were at a year or less. I remember my very first taste of Sazerac 18 year old, and the Rittenhouse 23 year old rye. Both the super-young and super-old ryes were delicious, and that is not something you can say about bourbon, to be sure, and not so much on single malts, either. Wood works with rye. Port finishes give it richness, sherry finishes wake up the spice, and I am very curious to try rye whiskey from Hungarian oak. If you’ve read my Whiskey Master Class, you’re probably wondering why I haven’t mentioned POF+ yeast yet. I was saving the best for last! Run rye with POF+ yeast, and you get that spicy note that we associate with the widely available ryes. Run a POF- yeast, and you’ve got a whole different cat. Rye is frickin’ amazing. And whiskey is just the beginning. I know I talk about whiskey a lot, too much, but it’s my thing. But rye is also my thing, and rye vodka makes a difference, now that we’re allowed to talk about grain and flavor in vodka. The classic jenever mash bill is two parts rye, one part malt; why aren’t you making jenever? And I know some of you are making rye-based gins, and I know why you’re doing it: it’s a secret plus-one botanical. We may just be at the dawning of the Age Of Rye. Start talking to farmers, start talking to yeast specialists, start talking to coopers and barrel brokers, and most of all, start talking to each other. It’s Rye Time. ■
Lew Bryson has been writing about beer and spirits full-time since 1995. He is the author of “Tasting Whiskey” and “Whiskey Master Class.”
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WHAT’s Stirring
DRINKS TO SAVOR FROM ACSA MEMBERS The Log Cabin This flavorful drink from Eight Oaks Farm Distillery in New Tripoli, Pennsylvania, is made with Barrel-aged Applejack, local apple cider, fresh rosemary and tart lemon—the perfect blend for an authentic Pennsylvania drinking experience. Ingredients 2 ounces Barrel-aged Applejack 1 1/2 ounces honey rosemary syrup 1/2 ounce fresh lemon juice 5 ounces apple cider (or to taste) Directions For the honey rosemary syrup, stir equal parts hot water (not boiling) and honey until well combined. Turn off heat and add fresh rosemary to taste (the distillery recommends a hefty handful). Let cool completely. Remove the rosemary and put your syrup in an airtight canning jar in the fridge for up to two weeks. For the cocktail, fill a jar with ice, pour in Barrel-aged Applejack, honey rosemary syrup, squeeze of fresh lemon and local apple cider. Stir well to incorporate all the flavors. Garnish with a slice of fresh apple and/or a sprig of aromatic rosemary.
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C R AF T S PI R I T S MAG .CO M
Scofflaw In this cocktail from Blanco, Texas-based Milam & Greene, the rich dark fruit notes of the distillery’s Straight Rye Whiskey Finished in Port Wine Casks are sweetened by the grenadine and balanced with the dry vermouth, lemon juice and bitters. This is a surprising cocktail that will wake up the palate and olfactory senses and is appropriate to make as a celebration to the repeal of Prohibition. Ingredients 2 ounces Milam & Greene Port Finished Rye Whiskey 1 ounce dry vermouth 2 dashes orange bitters 1/4 ounce lemon juice 1/4 ounce grenadine Lemon peel Cocktail cherry Directions Combine all ingredients except for garnish into an ice shaker. Shake with ice for 20 seconds and strain into a serving glass. Add garnish and enjoy.
Black Walnut Old Fashioned Blanco, Texas-based Milam & Greene’s Straight Rye Whiskey Finished in Port Wine Casks is rich in dark fruit and vanilla notes and there is already plenty of flavor to add extra umph to a classic whiskey-forward Old Fashioned. After exploring multiple different combinations of citrus peel and bitters, the distillery found that there is a perfect pairing to be found with black walnut bitters for a subtle and savory element. This is not your dive bar Old Fashioned, but instead a layered and delicious beverage to bring warmth on any cold occasion. Ingredients 2 ounces Milam & Greene Straight Rye Whiskey Finished in Port Wine Casks 1 bars poon simple syrup 1 dash Angostura bitters 2 dashes black walnut bitters Orange peel Cocktail cherry Directions Combine whiskey, simple syrup, and bitters in a tall mixing glass with ice and stir for 20 seconds until ice melts slightly. Prepare serving glass by rubbing the edges of the glass with orange peel to release the essence of the fruit oil. Add ice into glass and strain liquid from mixing glass into serving glass. Drop peel and cherry into the cocktail and serve.
Ålander After Dark From Far North Spirits in Hallock, Minnesota, this three-ingredient cocktail riff on a Negroni elevates the distillery’s Ålander Nordic Style Spiced Rum to something truly unexpected and special. Ingredients 1 1/2 ounces Ålander Nordic Style Spiced Rum 1/2 ounce sweet vermouth 1/2 ounce amaro Lemon peel Directions Stir all ingredients over ice in a mixing glass. Strain over ice into rocks glass and garnish with lemon peel.
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C R AF T S PI R I T S MAG .CO M
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ACSA Affairs
A TOAST TO ACSA’S 8TH ANNUAL DISTILLERS’ CONVENTION AND VENDOR TRADE SHOW After more than a year of being apart, and nearly 34 months since our last in-person convention, the American Craft Spirits Association was thrilled to host its 8th Annual Distillers’ Convention and Vendor Trade Show Dec. 4-6, 2021, in Louisville, Kentucky. Just under 1,200 members of the craft spirits community gathered in Derby City to network, learn and toast our vibrant industry. Attendees strengthened their knowledge with an exceptional educational program; mingled with nearly 150 of the industry’s top suppliers; met the inaugural interns, distillers and mentors for Spirits Training Entrepreneurship Program for Underrepresented Professionals (STEPUP) Foundation; heard a keynote address from Sam Calagione of Dogfish Head Craft Brewery and Dogfish Head Distilling Co.; tasted some of the nation’s finest craft spirits; and celebrated with medalists from recent ACSA competitions as well as industry icons. Here is a recap of the event.
vided pro bono services to help ACSA with regulatory compliance. The opening coincided with a holiday party and sweater contest sponsored by Amoretti. During the trade show, attendees explored the latest innovations in equipment, packaging, ingredients and merchandising, as well as services such as architecture, legal, e-commerce, banking, insurance, safety management and operational consulting. The exhibit hall also featured a book market and authors pavilion and a live stage where CRAFT SPIRITS magazine editors conducted interviews for the crowd and The Craft Spirits Podcast.
EDUCATION The education program included dozens of presentations from industry experts designed for everyone from seasoned distillers to novices. Tracks included business leadership; distillery fundamentals; distribution; innovation; legal and compliance; sales, marketing and business; sensory; and technical. The well-rounded program was selected by the education committee, in large part, through our call for presentations process. Presenters included distilling members of ACSA, as well as TTB leadership, suppliers, and consultants from legal, marketing and safety organizations. Before the convention, additional educational opportunities were available as separate ticketed events, including a sensory course at Moonshine University and distillery start-up 101 courses. Another session during the convention, led by Ashley Barnes of The Spirits Group, focused on common faults when tasting spirits.
VENDOR TRADE SHOW The vendor trade show officially opened with a ribbon cutting by Andrew Donovan of Stoll Keenon Ogden PLLC, a local law firm who pro-
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STEPUP FOUNDATION INAUGURAL CLASS During the convention, ACSA and the STEPUP Foundation, a nascent non-profit spearheaded by ACSA to promote diversity within the spirits industry, proudly announced their 2022 inaugural class of interns, mentors and participating distilleries. The first interns are Yakntoro “Yaki” Udoumoh, a Maryland native and Howard University alum who is currently a bartender at the revered Columbia Room in Washington, D.C.; and Erin Lee, a Canadian transplant to Brooklyn and certified tea sommelier who will transition into the distilling industry from a career in fashion.
C R AF T S PI R I T S MAG .CO M
ACSA Affairs
The STEPUP mentors are Chris Underwood, a STEPUP board member, CEO of Young’s Market Company (a subsidiary of Young’s Holdings), and chairman of the board of the Wine & Spirits Wholesalers of America; and Sailor Guevara, who in addition to writing, creating content, and podcasting, is also the acting founder & CEO of Guevara Spirits based out of Stuart, Florida. And the inaugural class of participating distilleries includes Cascade Hollow Distilling Co. of Tullahoma, Tennessee; Eight Oaks Farm Distillery of New Tripoli, Pennsylvania; and Westward Whiskey of Portland, Oregon. The 2022 participating distributor is Republic National Distributing Co. Click here to learn more about the STEPUP Foundation.
ACSA TOWN HALL ACSA also hosted a town hall to update members on recent and upcoming efforts related to membership, education, state guilds, directto-consumer (DtC) shipping of craft spirits and more. ACSA also announced that it is officially changing its mailing address from Kentucky to Virginia. The new address is: P.O Box 470, Oakton, VA 22124. In an effort to use the platforms members most use daily, ACSA is also starting a private Facebook group for voting members only (open to all employees of member DSPs). The group will be an environment to not only ask questions without judgement, but to provide input and feedback to colleagues based upon members’ experiences and best practices. If you would like to be added to the group, please send an email to carason@americancraftspirits.org.
MORE NETWORKING OPPORTUNITIES Before and throughout the convention, attendees had numerous opportunities to network with peers and industry leaders. First-time attendees, roughly 1/3 of those attending the convention, could meet ACSA leadership, including members of the board and past presidents, at a coffee klatch. Those who registered in advance experienced an all-day distillery tour featuring tours at Jeptha Creed Distillery, Castle & Key Distillery, Wilderness Trail Distillery and Starlight Distillery. Members of ACSA’s PAC were invited to attend a reception with Sen. Mitch McConnell and Mike Berry, Secretary of the Kentucky Tourism, Arts and Heritage Cabinet. A big shout out to host distilleries and special guests. All attendees could enjoy a Repeal Day Celebration (sponsored by Speakeasy Co.) on the 88th anniversary of the Repeal of Prohibition. Entertainment for the celebration included local rock and roll band Zella May, with lead singer Dr. Patrick Heist, co-owner and chief scientific officer at Wilderness Trail Distillery and Ferm Solutions, Inc. The Spirits Soiree was also bookended by a happy hour and sips of spirits that were entered into ACSA’s Judging of Craft Spirits.
SPIRITS SOIREE On the final evening of the convention, ACSA hosted a dinner and awards banquet to honor recent medalists from competitions and luminaries in the craft spirits industry. The dinner and awards banquet was sponsored by Republic National Distributing Co., and wine was sponsored by Huber Winery & Starlight Distillery. During the banquet, attendees learned about Good Deeds Spirits, a collective of distillers who created Good Deeds Malt Whiskey, a limited-release blend of whiskey from nine craft spirits producers. Distillers from the group poured samples of the whiskey, of which 100% of the proceeds will benefit ACSA’s STEPUP Foundation. Click here to purchase. ACSA also honored operations administrator Teresa McDaniel, who retired at the end of 2021, having helped build the ACSA membership to now over 700 small businesses strong. CRAFT SPIRITS PACKAGING AWARDS AND RECOGNITION FOR ACSA’S 2021 AMERICAN CRAFT SPIRITS AWARDS Later, CRAFT SPIRITS magazine, ACSA’s official, bi-monthly digital publication, presented the Second Annual Craft Spirits Packaging Awards, sponsored by the Glass Packaging Institute (GPI).
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ACSA Affairs
Editor in chief Jeff Cioletti announced the medalists, and GPI president Scott DeFife announced the Best in Show honoree, Hall of Fame Vodka from Scottsdale, Arizona-based Hall of Fame Spirits, for its baseball bat-shaped bottle. The bottle was designed by Jerry “Bubba” Draper, the founder of Hall of Fame Spirits, and the bottle is supplied by Rockwood Glass. See a complete list of all the medalists in this issue. Following the Craft Spirits Packaging Awards, ACSA board member Colton Weinstein of Corsair Artisan Distillery honored the previously announced medalists of ACSA’s 2021 Judging of Craft Spirits and Heartland Whiskey Competition. Heather Greene, CEO of Milam & Greene Whiskey Distillery, shared her thoughts on the distillery earning Best in Show and Best of Whiskey for its Port Finished Rye. GABLE ERENZO SPIRIT OF COMMUNITY AWARD To close the banquet, ACSA honored Mark Shilling, founder of Revolution Spirits and partner at Big Thirst—as well as a past president of ACSA and current chair of the association’s government affairs committee—with the inaugural Gable Erenzo Spirit of Community Award, which recognizes the generosity of spirit, resilience, and resourcefulness to advance the interests of our small business entrepreneurs. It is given for an extraordinary commitment of time, working selflessly through weekdays, nights, and weekends. And, it is given to someone who puts the needs of the association and our business community before any personal aims. This new award was named for someone who embodied all of those attributes, whom the craft spirits community lost far too soon. Gable Erenzo was the co-founder (along with his father Ralph, and Brian Lee) of Tuthilltown Spirits and he later founded Gardiner Liquid Mercantile in Gardiner, N.Y. Gable passed away suddenly in April. He was known throughout the industry as someone who wouldn’t hesitate to help his craft spirits peers. Gable’s close friend, Nicole Austin, general manager/distiller at Cascade Hollow Distilling Co. and former ACSA board member, offered a heartfelt tribute to Gable during the ceremony. “[Gable] had this ability to make anybody feel like his best friend,” Austin said. “I’m 100% convinced that I was one of his closest friends— I think there were thousands of us out there.… It was really not that long ago that I felt like a total outsider and was not at all sure that I belonged here, I was not at all sure that I could do this. And the first time that I walked into one of these conferences, Gable just immediately made me feel welcome.” Ralph Erenzo honored his late son’s legacy by presenting Shilling with the award. Ralph and Shilling were both key players in the long government affairs effort that ultimately led to passage of permanent federal excise tax (FET) relief late last year. Shilling’s commitment was especially critical after the initial, temporary FET reduction that passed in late 2017 and was set to expire on December 31, 2019, and then during the one-year extension period, with temporary relief set to expire on December 31, 2020. “Because of this two-year sunset, [Shilling] was pressed to exert an enormous effort, which he did on his personal time,” Erenzo said. “And three days before the original approval was to expire and you would go back to your original FET tax level, it was passed into permanency.” Shilling offered his own tribute to Gable Erenzo upon receiving the award. “Gable Erenzo was larger than life and had an amazing impact on everyone he met, and inspired us all to be better in all that we do,” Shilling said. “Receiving this award is not just an honor but an inspiration
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to continue his legacy. To receive it from Ralph, my friend and mentor for many years, makes it that much more humbling and special.”
GIVING BACK ACSA asked attendees to make someone’s holiday shine a little brighter this season by donating toys or purchasing ornaments for the Christmas trees inside the exhibit hall. We raised more than $500 and donated two fully decorated Christmas trees, a host of gifts, and a menorah to a local charity, Maryhurst.
TORNADO RELIEF FOR WESTERN KENTUCKY Not long after the convention, we were saddened to hear about the tornado outbreak that devastated parts of western Kentucky. ACSA sends our thoughts and best wishes to everyone affected by the natural disaster. We offered two full registrations for our next convention (and an hour of one-on-one time with an officer from our board of directors) for The Kentucky Bourbon Benefit auction. Organized by The Kentucky Distillers’ Association, the Bourbon Crusaders and Fred Minnick, the six-day auction of rare bottles, private barrel selections and more raised over $3 million to help ease suffering and restore hope for residents of Western Kentucky whose communities were ravaged by the tornado outbreak.
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ACSA Affairs
CRAFT SPIRITS DATA PROJECT Also in December, ACSA and Park Street presented highlights from the 2021 Craft Spirits Data Project (the Project) at the Annual Craft Spirits Economic Briefing, held in tandem with ACSA’s Annual Distillers’ Convention & Vendor Trade Show. The Craft Spirits Data Project, which was first introduced in 2016, is a first-of-its-kind research initiative that aims to provide a solid and reliable fact base for evaluating performance and trends in the U.S. craft spirits industry. The ongoing Project, which seeks to quantify the number, size, and impact of craft spirits producers in the U.S., is an effort led by ACSA and Park Street with collaboration from key industry groups including the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB) and the National Alcohol Beverage Control Association (NABCA). Key findings and highlights revealed during the briefing include the following: - The U.S. craft spirits market volume reached more than 12m 9-liter cases in retail sales in 2020, growing at an annual rate of 7.3%. In value terms, the market reached $6.7 billion in sales, growing at an annual rate of 9.8%. U.S. craft spirits market share of total U.S. spirits reached 4.7% in volume and 7.1% in value in 2020, up from 2.2% in volume and 3% in value in 2015 and 4.6% in volume and 6.9% in value in 2019. - The number of active craft distillers in the U.S. grew by 1.1% over the last year to 2,290 as of August 2021. Active craft distillers are defined as licensed U.S. distilled spirits producers that removed 750,000 proof gallons (or 394,317 9L cases) or less from bond, market themselves as craft, are not openly controlled by a large supplier, and have no proven violation of the ACSA Code of Ethics. - Fueled by FET permanence, the U.S. craft spirits industry invested $759 million in their own businesses, an increase of more than $61 mil-
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lion from 2019. A landmark victory for the industry in 2020, The Craft Beverage Modernization and Tax Reform Act (CBMTRA), reduced the Federal Excise Tax on distilled spirits from $13.50 to $2.70 per proof gallon for the first 100,000 proof gallons removed from bond annually. - Distillery and tasting room sales make up 47.7% of all sales for small craft distilleries (an increase year on year), while out-of-state sales make up 70.9% for larger craft distilleries. Direct sales at the distillery are important for all craft distillers but especially important for small craft producers (between 0 and 10,000 proof gallons removed from bond annually). Out-of-state business is particularly important for large producers (between 100,001 and 750,000 proof gallons removed from bond annually). - Some states are “craftier” than others, with California, New York, Washington, Texas, and Pennsylvania leading the pack. Pennsylvania is now the 5th most concentrated state in terms of craft distilling, passing Colorado, which has historically been in the top five. Geographically, the market remains concentrated. The top five states by number of craft distilleries—CA (190), NY (180), WA (135), TX (135) & PA (117, up from 109 in 2020)—make up 33% of the U.S. craft distiller universe, and the next five states—CO (107), MI (88), NC (80), OR (77), and OH (73)—comprise an additional 18.6% of the market. The remaining states represent 48.4% of the market.
CLICK HERE TO SEE THE COMPLETE CRAFT SPIRITS DATA PROJECT.
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snapshots
LEGACY + GRIT The American Craft Spirits Association hosted its 8th Annual Distillers’ Convention and Vendor Trade Show in Louisville, Kentucky, Dec. 4-6, 2021. Here are some images from our trip to Derby City.
Tasting bourbon at Starlight Distillery
The exhibit hall featured a book market and authors pavilion.
ACSA staff and convention attendees were masked and ready to learn.
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Sipping spirits that were entered into ACSA’s Judging of Craft Spirits
The distillery tour included visits to distilleries in Kentucky and Indiana.
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snapshots
Sam Calagione of Dogfish Head Craft Brewery and Dogfish Head Distilling Co.
ACSA president Becky Harris
ACSA past president Chris Montana
John McKee and Johnny Jeffery pouring glasses of Good Deeds Malt Whiskey
John Fetzner and Jessica Lemmon of Cart/Horse Distilling at the Repeal Day Celebration
Scott DeFife, president of the Glass Packaging Institute, announces Best in Show for the Craft Spirits Packaging Awards.
Ashley Barnes of The Spirits Group, leading a presentation on common faults when tasting spirits
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THEY’VE GOT THE LOOK T H E S E C O N D A N N U A L C R A F T S P I R I T S P A C K A G I N G AWA R D S SPONSORED BY THE GLASS PACKAGING INSTITUTE
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C R AF T S PI R I T S MAG .CO M
W
e realize that many craft spirits producers put just as much thought into what’s on their bottles and cans as what’s in the bottles and cans. To help celebrate the best in craft spirits labels and packaging, the American Craft Spirits Association and CRAFT SPIRITS magazine are proud to present the Craft Spirits Packaging Awards. The second annual competition, which celebrates excellence and creativity in the design of craft spirits labels and packaging, drew 150 entries from more than 70 companies.
[ JUDGING CRITERIA ] Judging for the Craft Spirits Packaging Awards took place virtually in October, with an esteemed panel of judges evaluating each entry on the following criteria.
A E ST H E T I C S : How does the packaging appeal to you from a design/artistic perspective? I N N OVAT I O N : How original is the design? Does it stand out on a shelf? E M OT I O N A L A P P E A L : How does the packaging make you feel? Does it connect with you? B R A N D C O M M U N I C AT I O N : How well does the packaging tell the story of the brand/ product through visual/design/copy elements?
The packages that rated highly on all of those criteria are the ones that connect with consumers and drive trial and sales, even when those consumers have not previously encountered your products.
[ MEET THE JUDGES ]
Thushan Amarasiriwardena is a product manager at a big search company where he makes robots talk. Previously he designed apps for kids that won Emmys and was a roving journalist at The Boston Globe. He judges books by their cover. Same goes for spirits bottles.
Kate Bernot is a reporter covering beer, food, and spirits. She was formerly an editor at The Takeout and DRAFT Magazine; she now regularly writes for Good Beer Hunting, Craft Beer & Brewing, and other publications. She is a certified beer judge and lives in Missoula, Montana, with three backyard chickens and a well-stocked bar cart.
Jason Dobson is the owner of Contagious, a brand agency based in Scotland delivering experiences that make connections between the consumer and global and local drinks brands. Their most recent projects include the Shiner brewery visitor experience and the brand creation and visitor experience at Great Jones Distilling Co. in Manhattan.
Andrew Kaplan is a freelance writer based in New York City. He was managing editor of Beverage World magazine for 14 years and has worked for a variety of other food and beverage-related publications, and also newspapers. Follow him on Twitter @andrewkap.
Em Sauter is an Advanced Cicerone, cartoonist, author, beer reviewer, international beer judge and public speaker who runs pintsanpanels.com, which focuses on visual beer education. Her first book “Beer is for Everyone! (of Drinking Age)” was published in 2017. Her second book “Hooray for Craft Beer!” will be released in April 2022.
Michelle Villas is an art director with more than 20 years experience. After spending 16 years working on magazines in New York, Michelle moved to California where she is the creative director on a range of publications for The Golden State Company. A true typophile, she carries her obsession with fonts into every project.
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[ BEST IN SHOW ]
H A L L O F FA M E VO D K A Hall of Fame Spirits Scottsdale, Arizona Designer: Jerry “Bubba” Draper Bottle provider: Rockwood Glass
Hall of Fame Vodka Swings for the Fences
[ FROM THE JUDGES ] This package takes the honors as the most innovative and deserves recognition because of the manufacturing hurdles involved in bringing the distiller’s and designers’ dreams to fruition.
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A midlife crisis is partially to thank for creating the product that recently claimed Best in Show honors for the second annual Craft Spirits Packaging Awards. Decades into a sales career spanning numerous industries, Jerry “Bubba” Draper pondered buying a sports car, but that didn’t seem right. “For 20 years of my sales career, I’ve sold for everybody,” says Draper. “I’ve made people happy and companies successful. [But] it never returned to my family what I thought our family deserved. And I said, what do I want to do for 20 more years? I can sell anything. Can I be involved in sports? Is there a way to involve the rest of my life in sports, given I’ve never touched foot in the sports industry?” About eight years ago, Draper answered that question when he first envisioned a spirits bottle that would look like a real baseball bat—although it took years worth of work testing prototypes before he could launch. To achieve the look of a real bat, immersion hydrographic technology is applied to each bottle. In short, a thin film is laid across water and the bottle is dipped into the water. It’s the same process used by automobile manufacturers to give car interiors trim that appears to be wood. The end result looks so much like real wood (and each bottle has its own unique grain) that Draper says the U.S. Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB) required him to send in a bottle before it was approved. Even his mother-in-law was long convinced the container was real wood, not glass. The bottle also features a solid wood cork, and a hand-applied black sleeve that looks like grip tape from a bat handle. As for the spirit in the bottle, Draper says it is a corn-based vodka from a co-packer in Bardstown, Kentucky. He liked the taste of overproof vodka, but also found a great marketing tie-in at 90 proof: Baseball bases are 90 feet apart. Draper says the Best in Show honor initially left him speechless. “You never know if people are going to be as in love with your brand or your product or your bottle as you are,” says Draper. “I may think my baby’s beautiful, but it doesn’t mean that everybody thinks my baby’s beautiful. I was awestruck [to win best in show.]”
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[ PORTFOLIO ]
PACKAGING AWA R D S
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IRON FISH P A C K A GD I NI ST G I L L E RY AWA R D S Thompsonville, 2021 Michigan
Label design: Iron Fish Distillery Packaging supplier: Berlin Packaging Bottle design: Studio One Eleven, Berlin Packaging
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[ FROM THE JUDGES ]
[ HONORABLE MENTION ]
A fun, unique package design that stands out and also beautifully shows off the liquid inside.
B AC K WA R D S D I ST I L L I N G
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Casper, Wyoming
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H I N T E R H AU S D I ST I L L I N G
GA R D E N C LU B
Arnold, California
WanderFolk Spirits
Bottle supplier: Berlin Packaging
Guthrie, Oklahoma
Label design: Justin Page (Justin Page Design)
Label design and concept: David Hoffner (UpsideDown Design) and Derek Duty (WanderFolk Spirits)
Label supplier: Blue Label Packaging
Label production: Multi-Color Corporation Bottle provider: ByQuest
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[ BRANDY ]
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B R A N DY N O. 8 3 Charbay Distillery Ukiah, California Label design: Susan Karakasevic Bottle provider: Berlin Packaging/ Bruni Glass
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C R A D L E O F L I B E RT Y A P P L E B R A N DY New Liberty Distillery Philadelphia Designers: Steven Grasse’s team at Quaker City Mercantile Bottle provider: Saverglass
[ FROM THE JUDGES ] This bottle is unique without being gimmicky; its label clearly and quickly conveys the American heritage and tradition of apple brandy. The tasting notes and listed apple varietals are also a welcome addition.
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C O Q UA R D B R A N DY Wollersheim Winery and Distillery Prairie Du Sac, Wisconsin Glass bottle decorating: Loggerhead Deco
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[ GIN ]
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Guthrie, Oklahoma Label design and concept: David Hoffner (UpsideDown Design) and Derek Duty (WanderFolk Spirits) Label production: Multi-Color Corporation
[ HONORABLE MENTION ]
Bottle provider: ByQuest
S L I G H T LY LO ST
[ FROM THE JUDGES ]
Iron Fish Distillery
New, fresh and stands out. Great collage art and use of gold foil, with strong type choices.
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Thompsonville, Michigan
PACKAGING AWA R D S PACKAGING 20 AWA R D 2S1
P APCAKCAKGAI G N IGN G AW AA WRADRSD S
PA KA PAC KC AG I NGGI N G AS RDS A WAAW RD
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F I D ST G I N
H . O. B . S . G I N
A M E R I C A N D RY G I N
Hali’imaile Distilling Co.
Young & Yonder Spirits
Greenhook Ginsmiths
Makawao, Hawaii
Healdsburg, California
Brooklyn, New York
Designer: Studio One Eleven, Berlin Packaging
Art direction and design: Sarah Opatz
Bottle designer: Weston Heights
Bottle provider: Berlin Packaging
Bottle provider: Berlin Packaging
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Brand identity: threebrand Bottle provider: Phoenix Packaging
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[ RUM ]
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M I C H I GA N N AV Y ST R E N GT H R U M Iron Fish Distillery Thompsonville, Michigan Label design: Iron Fish Distillery Packaging supplier: Berlin Packaging Bottle design: Studio One Eleven, Berlin Packaging
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[ HONORABLE MENTION ] Å L A N D E R N O R D I C R U M
504HIBISCUS
Far North Spirits Hallock, Minnesota
Happy Raptor Distilling
Design: Jenney Stevens
New Orleans
Bottle supplier: WaterDogs
5 0 4 B A N A N A S F O ST E R [ FROM THE JUDGES ] A bold package design that conveys a strong sense of mystique that makes it hard to not want to pick up, examine it more closely, open it up and try what’s inside. … The black color and minimalist design stands out. The tonal design adds interest.
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Happy Raptor Distilling New Orleans Bottle supplier: All American Containers Label design: TILT
COCONUT RUM Beyond Distilling Co. North Charleston, South Carolina
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[ RTD ]
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ORANGE CRUSH ALCO Philadelphia Label design: Steven Grasse’s team at Quaker City Mercantile
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[ HONORABLE MENTION ]
S A LT E D M A P L E O L D FA S H I O N E D
FA B R I Z I A VO D K A S O DA
Iron Fish Distillery Thompsonville, Michigan
Fabrizia Spirits
Packaging supplier: Vetroelite
Salem, New Hampshire
Design: Iron Fish Distillery
[ FROM THE JUDGES ]
BASIL CRUSH
This packaging is whimsical without being too “cutesy,” and does a great job communicating what’s in the bottle and how drinkers should consume it. It sets expectations well and evokes a time and place for drinking the product. … Get the fall feels with this one. Great communication.
Hudson Valley Distillers
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Germantown, New York Packaging supplier: Berlin Packaging Design agency: Clever Creative
A STO R I A M A RY Pilot House Distilling Astoria, Oregon
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[ S P E C I A LT Y S P I R I T S ]
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PACKAGING PACKAGING AWA R D S AWA R D S
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SUSPECT PINEAPPLE JA L A P E Ñ O WHISKEY
EXTRA AÑEJO Tequila Komos New York
Pursuit Distilling Co.
Packaging supplier: Anfora
Enumclaw, Washington
Design: Komos, Inc.
Packaging supplier: Saverglass
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[ HONORABLE MENTION ] CREME DE VIOLETTE LIQUEUR
A Ñ E J O C R I STA L I N O
New Liberty Distillery
Tequila Komos
Philadelphia
New York
J OV E N
Packaging supplier: Anfora
BOSSCAL Mezcal and Wolf Spirit Distillery
REPOSADO ROSA
Eugene, Oregon
Tequila Komos
[ FROM THE JUDGES ]
Design: BOSSCAL Mezcal and Wolf Spirit Distillery
New York
The vibrant color draws the eye and the raised details are a nice touch.
Packaging supplier: Flores Gonzalez S.A
Design: Komos, Inc.
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SOUR C H E R RY LIQUEUR
Packaging supplier: Anfora
New Liberty Distillery
Design: Komos, Inc.
Philadelphia
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[ VODKA ]
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O C E A N O R GA N I C VO D K A Hawaii Sea Spirits Organic Farm & Distillery Kula, Hawaii Design: Jim Grannan Production specifications: Grupo Pavisa Packaging supplier: Global Group Co., Ltd.
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H A L L O F FA M E VO D K A Hall of Fame Spirits Scottsdale, Arizona Designer: Jerry “Bubba” Draper Bottle provider: Rockwood Glass
[ FROM THE JUDGES ] So unique! Love it. Incredibly well done.
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GARDEN CLUB SPICED CITRUS VODKA WanderFolk Spirits Guthrie, Oklahoma Label design and concept: David Hoffner (UpsideDown Design) and Derek Duty (WanderFolk Spirits) Label production: Multi-Color Corporation Bottle provider: ByQuest
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PAC A
[ WHISKEY ]
PACKAGING AWA R D S
P A C KPAAGCI KNAGG I N G AD WSA R D S AWA R
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MAD ANGLER WHISKEY Iron Fish Distillery Thompsonville, Michigan Label design: Iron Fish Distillery
B O R C H E T TA B O U R B O N Big Machine Distillery
Packaging supplier: Berlin Packaging
WHISKEY SOCIETY BLENDED BOURBON WHISKEY
Nashville, Tennessee Packaging supplier: ByQuest
Bottle design: Studio One Eleven, Berlin Packaging
Olde Raleigh Distillery
Distillery credits: Scott Borchetta, CEO; Mark Borchetta, EVP; David Miller, designer; Kylie Judge, GM operations; Cameron Crown, project manager; Clayton Cutler, chief distiller
Zebulon, North Carolina Design: CF Napa Brand Design
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Packaging supplier: The Atlas Network
[ FROM THE JUDGES ]
[ FROM THE JUDGES ]
It’s memorable, easily recognizable, and a bottle you’d want to save even after you’ve consumed the bourbon inside.
This is the epitome of what a whiskey bottle should look like—perfectly executed toward that vision.
TWO PENINSULA WHISKEY
[ HONORABLE MENTION ] VA R C H A S ST R A I G H T BOURBON WHISKEY
UNCLE BOOJIE’S KENTUCKY STRAIGHT BOURBON WHISKEY
T H E M AG N I F I C E N T WHISKEY
Shankar Distillers
Uncle Boojie’s
Enumclaw, Washington
Bloomfield Township, Michigan
Louisville, Kentucky
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Pursuit Distilling Co.
Iron Fish Distillery Thompsonville, Michigan Label design: Iron Fish Distillery Packaging supplier: Berlin Packaging Bottle design: Studio One Eleven, Berlin Packaging
C R AF T S PI R I T S MAG .CO M
THE GLASS PACKAGING INSTITUTE congratulates the winners of the
Craft Spirits Packaging Awards and salutes the American Craft Spirits Industry.
C H E E R S ! Spirits distillers take pride in their craft, and North American glass manufacturers take pride in making premium sustainable packaging for their product. Consider North American glass for your next order. #ChooseGlass To learn more about our work at GPI, visit www.gpi.org
member spotlight
Artfully Finished Milam & Greene Whiskey charts its own path in Texas. BY JON PAGE
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C R AF T S PI R I T S MAG .CO M
W
hen the team at Milam & Greene Whiskey first set out to make Straight Rye Whiskey Finished in Port Wine Casks, they were hoping to add a Texas stamp to the Indiana-produced rye. The Texas climate delivered it a little sooner than expected. Conditions in Blanco helped impart the flavor and aroma the distillery was looking for in a matter of weeks rather than months or years, although the vatting process added more time and careful consideration. “That first fill was too porty,” recalls Milam & Greene CEO Heather Greene. “[The rye] was overpowered … and now you’ve got two big competing flavor profiles. Then we did a second fill of the port and then a third fill and a fourth. And I can’t remember how many, but we’ve now got at any one time, different port barrels at different ages. You vat all of that into a tank until you get that flavor and color that is representative of the rye. It’s actually a really tricky whiskey to make.” Among other awards, their effort was recognized by the judges of the American Craft Spirits Association’s 2021 Judging of Craft Spirits, as the 94-proof whiskey—with aromas of dark cherries and black currants—earned
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Best of Whiskey and Best in Show honors. “That award,” says Greene, “was just so special because it was like, ‘Damn, this team, they know what they’re doing.’” And that port-finished rye represents so much of what is special about Milam & Greene, which also makes Triple Cask Straight Bourbon Whiskey, Single Barrel Straight Bourbon Whiskey and more limited-edition offerings. In addition to in-house production, Milam & Greene isn’t shy about sourcing whiskey to create its own unique products through blending, creative finishes and aging—in multiple states. “We kind of wrap our arms around everything that’s available to us in the whiskey world,” says master distiller Marlene Holmes, who visits Kentucky twice a year
to oversee production of whiskey for Milam & Greene at Bardstown Bourbon Co. That whiskey is aging in barrels in Kentucky and Texas, and some of Milam & Greene’s Texasmade whiskey is aging in Kentucky, giving the distillery a wide array of possibilities. Greene says the distillery is partially modeled on some of her favorite brands from Japan and Scotland. There’s an intention behind each bottle that the distillery works to achieve in a backwards direction. Greene says they think about what each whiskey should look like and who it’s for, with the idea that “your whiskey has to be awesome,” she says. “It has to compete with the best whiskeys in the world, or the consumer is going to turn away from it after they take the first taste.”
“Your whiskey has to be awesome. It has to compete with the best whiskeys in the world, or the consumer is going to turn away from it after they take the first taste.” —Heather Greene
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The distillery is growing, and the arrival of a new 1,000-gallon still in 2021 allows production in Blanco to increase from two barrels a week to eight barrels. Anyone assuming that’s a sign that Milam & Greene is shifting away from sourcing whiskey would be far off the mark. “I think we’ll just stay focused on what we’ve been doing thus far,” says Holmes. “You know, it seems to be working pretty well for us. That’s one thing about having Heather … her area of expertise as far as blending is just amazing.” Milam & Greene was founded by Marsha Milam (although it was initially known as Ben Milam Whiskey Distillery), who worked in the music business for 30 years as a concert promoter and talent buyer. Her path to whiskey includes a visit to the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame. She frequently recalls a “mountaintop experience” in which one of her clients, blues guitarist and singer Jimmie Vaughan, asked for her guidance and support in his speech to induct his brother Stevie Ray Vaughan into the hall of fame. “I called my best friend from the airport [out of Cleveland],” recalls Milam, “and said,
‘I’m not having a premonition, but I want you to know if my plane goes down, I’m at the top of my game.’” A month later, she was inside a rickhouse on the Kentucky Bourbon Trail, pondering the process of whiskey making and embracing the peace and quiet. “Had I not had the experience of having that kind of self actualization in the music world, I don’t know if I would have been so open and receptive,” says Milam. “I was just struck with the beauty and the respect that you will give these barrels this much space, and you will leave them alone and let them do their thing until they’re ready. And I fell in love with it. I fell in love with the whole concept.” Holmes joined the team in 2018 after a 27-year career with Jim Beam. She had once told a mutual friend of Milam that she would be interested in a move to craft distilling, and after the connection was made, Milam hosted Holmes in Austin for a weekend of live music and a whiskey festival. “By Sunday morning,” says Milam, “she asked me something like, ‘How many other people have applied for this job? And I said,
‘Well, none Marlene. This job is yours if you want it. And she and I sat there at breakfast and we just worked out her deal.” A month later, Holmes had sold her house and moved to Texas. Another mutual friend introduced Milam to Greene, although Milam was already familiar with Greene. Milam says Greene’s “Whiskey Distilled” was the first book she read about whiskey. “We brought her down to help us with this new project, just small batch,” says Milam. “She came down, I think three times, and by the third time we were like, we want you to move to Texas.” Milam & Greene Whiskey was born in 2019. Making Greene and Holmes part of the team was serendipitous, says Milam. “I knew at the time it was a big deal,” she says. “Now after having worked with them and watched them and seeing what they put out, I had no idea what this kind of chemistry was going to create. We’d set the bar with our really good single barrel … and that’s where I always wanted to keep the bar. Marlene and Heather have just blasted past that.” ■
“We kind of wrap our arms around everything that’s available to us in the whiskey world.” —Marlene Holmes
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Distilling Destinations
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Montgomery Spirits uses grain from a family farm to make its spirits.
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Big Sky, Big Soul From small towns to busy cities, Montana’s distilleries put local flavor and fans first. BY KATE BERNOT
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hen I tell people that Willie’s Distillery saved my life, I’m only half kidding. In September 2018, my husband and I floated our 14-foot Tributary inflatable raft down the hallowed Madison River under gray, cold skies—the wind blew icy across the water and chilled me colder than I can ever remember being. No amount of layers could keep me warm; my teeth chattered in my skull. We finally took off the river in Ennis, Montana, and beelined for Willie’s, where the first sip of Bighorn Bourbon spread its golden warmth through my body and down to what felt like frostbitten toes. The woman behind the bar smiled as I came back to life: “Better now?” This is the magic of Montana’s distilleries: They’re beacons in small towns, places to gather and revive yourself before another adventure on a mountain or in the backcountry. (Ennis’s population: 917). Some distribute outside the state’s borders, but all are fiercely focused on serving the locals that have kept them afloat, especially during the pandemic. “I don’t want a stranger who has never been to Havre to walk into our establishment and not feel like they are part of who we are,” says Alyssa Crawford, who along with her husband, Neil, the head distiller, owns Crawford Distillery in Havre. “There’s something about a
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small town—that pride is unreal.” Havre sits along a horizontal, northern stretch of the state near the Canadian border known as the Hi-Line, a reference to the BNSF railway line that runs through it. It’s a remote part of a remote state, and Crawford admits that encouraging out-of-towners to visit Havre can be a challenge, especially in cold winter months when lows reach single digits—without the dreaded wind chill. The remote location has also exacerbated supply chain issues during the past year; freight was already expensive, and tough winter weather sometimes delayed shipments and deliveries. But it has a silver lining, too: Locals are fierce supporters of their hometown distillery. Crawford says the distillery’s whiskeys all sell out within 24 hours of their release, and to-go sales of spirits were strong enough during the pandemic to keep the business afloat even with its taproom closed for a month. The next step is bringing those spirits, including best-sellers Cinnamon Flavored Rum, Milk River Moonshine (Neil’s pride and joy), and Vodka to more people: Crawford has upgraded to a 300-gallon still in a 8,400-squarefoot building, and is preparing to launch online sales. Further along the Hi-Line, 250 miles west of Havre, Spotted Bear Spirits in Whitefish also offers online direct-to-consumer sales
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John and Courtney McKee of Headframe Spirits
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while remaining focused on supporting its neighbors. Local grains, fruit, and botanicals are central to Spotted Bear’s ethos and products: Its coffee liqueur is made with Montana Morning Blend from Montana Coffee Traders, located just a few blocks away, and its Mountain Mint schnapps is an homage to the 30-plus mint farms that once dotted Flathead County. Today, there are far fewer as mint farms have shifted to canola, but Spotted Bear is still able to source local peppermint from a third-generation farm in Creston, a 30-minute drive from the distillery. “The coolest part of Montana is it supports and rallies around the mom-and-pop [business]. It supports the entrepreneur,” says Lauren Oscilowski, owner and operator of Spotted Bear Distillery. “We have access to all these people pursuing their passions and crafts and we can weave those into our product line or our cocktails in the tasting room.” Distilleries located in Montana’s larger cities—Billings, Missoula, Great Falls, Bozeman and Butte—also find ways to keep the local love flowing. Headframe Spirits in Butte built its tasting room and distillery facility atop the original, hand-laid marble tile floor of the city’s first Buick dealership in the historic Schumacher Building. History and hometown pride run deep in Butte, an industrial city whose legacy is reflected in Headframe products including Neversweat Bourbon Whiskey—named for a Butte mine with unusually cool temperatures—and Orphan Girl Cream Liqueur, an homage to the Orphan Girl Mine that is now the site of the World Museum of Mining. Headframe’s co-packing, co-production, and custom still design offerings through sibling companies Headframe Spirits Manufacturing and Mountain Consolidated Packaging also help small spirits brands scale and access highly efficient continuous-distillation equipment. Two hours’ drive northwest of Butte, Missoula’s Montgomery Distillery links Montana agriculture with refined cocktails. Proprietor Ryan Montgomery launched the distillery in 2012 as an outlet for the grain his father grows on their family farm near Lewiston, smack-dab in the middle of the state. Today, the distillery still uses grain from that farm to make spirits including Sudden Wisdom Rye Whiskey and Whyte Laydie Gin. Its American Single Malt Whiskey, released annually since 2018, doesn’t use the family’s grains, but is produced with Montana-grown and malted barley. Montgomery himself still helps his father with wheat and rye planting
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“The coolest part of Montana is it supports and rallies around the mom-andpop [business]. It supports the entrepreneur.” —Lauren Oscilowski of Spotted Bear Distillery
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Saddle Up: More Distilleries in Montana Montana has just one area code—406, for those not in the know—but its towns and topography are diverse. Explore more of what the vast state has to offer through the lens of its unique distilleries. Two distilleries near Glacier National Park recently celebrated their 10th anniversary. Located in Bigfork, Whistling Andy Distillery crafts innovative and classic spirits using locally sourced products. (Read a profile on Whistling Andy from the January 2021 issue of CRAFT SPIRITS magazine.) And 30 miles north in Coram, Glacier Distilling Co. specializes in small-batch whiskeys (and a variety of spirits) reflecting the rugged beauty of their surroundings. If you can catch Steel Toe Distillery in Bonner during its limited open hours, you’re in for a treat as co-owner Carl Bock pours samples and chats about offerings, including Sterling Huckleberry Vodka or 120-proof Sterling Huckleberry Vodka. About an hour south of Missoula, Westslope Distillery is a community-oriented distillery that seeks to express the Montana experience through spirits distilled in small batches using the finest ingredients sourced from farms and fields throughout the state. In downtown Bozeman, Bozeman Spirits Distillery’s BSD Bloody Mary—with housemade Montana Cold Springs Vodka—is a welcome apres-ski relaxer. The city is also home to Dry Hills Distillery, named for the nearby area where the owners’ great great grandfather homesteaded. Whiskey takes center stage there, with products including Bin 7 Wheat Whiskey, Montana Bonded Wheat Whiskey, and Four Grain Straight Bourbon Whiskey. Opening soon in Great Falls, Mountain Wave Distilling plans to offer vodka, gin, agave spirits, whiskey and seasonal spirits that capture the flavor of Montana’s wild and varied harvests. In the state capital of Helena, Gulch Distillers’ tasting room sits in the former Montana Distillery and Bottling Warehouse and uses only Montana-grown grains in its single malt whiskey, gin and award-winning Burrone Fernet. Further east, Billings is home to three distilleries, including Trailhead Spirits—which makes use of wheat grown on the owners’ family farm—and Undammed Spirits, whose products (Hole-in-the-Rock Gin, Thief Creek Straight Bourbon Whiskey, Shields River Single Malt Whiskey) are all named for a stream in the Yellowstone River watershed.
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and harvest seasons. “Any time you think of a craft product, you want to control as much of the process as possible,” he says. “It feels great to walk through a field and know that you’re turning the grain that’s brushing against your hand into a drink that someone’s going to really enjoy on the other side of the state.” Montgomery’s tasting room reflects a bit of this frontier sensibility, as tasteful strands of white lights reflect in the copper glow of the Christian Carl combination pot-column still—all in view of the massive taxidermied musk ox who graces the room’s western wall. If there was a product that best encapsulates the spirit of the distillery, it’s Mama Tried Bourbon, a nod to the original Merle Haggard song and a beloved cover by The Grateful Dead. “It’s both cowboys and hippies, which describes both Missoula and me personally,” Montgomery said. A little cowboy, a little hippie, a little farmer, miner, ski bum, fisherman … Montanans’ many identities find themselves mirrored in their state’s distilleries. It explains the strong affection between distilleries and local drinkers, and those ties help ensure Montana spirits always taste like a sense of place—the Last Best Place. ■
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JENEVER’S SHARED HERITAGE Belgium and the Netherlands have equal claim to the origins of jenever, but they’re less focused on the past than the future. BY JEFF CIOLETTI
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Schiedam, the historical center of Dutch jenever production
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ne of the more amusing debates that has endured in the global spirits realm has been which country gets the credit for creating jenever—and, by extension, gin—the Netherlands or Belgium. We know that the spirit dubbed “Dutch Courage” by the English originated in the Low Countries, which span what is now modernday Netherlands and Belgium. But that’s when essentially—depending on whom you ask—the trail runs cold. I’m going to throw a third country into the mix: Switzerland—because that’s exactly what I remain on this argument. Luckily, the rivalry between the two nowseparate sovereign states is relatively friendly and all in good fun (unlike the more passionate dispute over pisco’s place of origin). It helps that the people who’ve made it their mission to introduce new generations to the spirit don’t take themselves too seriously and aren’t above poking fun at their own heritage. On my most recent trip through the region, I encountered at least three people who were eager to tell me that many of the traditions surrounding imbibing, particularly in the Netherlands, were rooted in the notorious thriftiness of the Dutch people. “[The Netherlands] never really had a cocktail culture,” says Tess Posthumus, whose two Amsterdam cocktail bars, Flying Dutchmen and Dutch Courage, are among the modern wave of mixology-forward establishments that have helped change that. “We were cheap Dutch and we never mixed things.” That’s also the rationale that many like to use to explain the origins of the kopstootje, the Boilermaker-like tradition of pairing a small glass of jenever with a beer. Typically, the bartender would fill a tiny (an ounce or two) tulip-shaped vessel to the brim with jenever, the guest would put their hands behind their backs and slurp a bit of the spirit from the top. Kopstootje means “head butt,” after the nod-like motion the drinker would make as they lean into the glass. The story most like to tell is that bartenders had traditionally filled to the tippy-top because the thrifty Dutch patrons would complain they were being ripped off if the glass wasn’t practically overflowing. They wanted to squeeze every possible drop they could out of the pub. “You can actually fill it a little bit over because of the surface tension,” offers Rutger Vismans, the head distiller at the National Jenever Museum in Schiedam, Netherlands. (He’s, of course, referring to the meniscus, the curved surface of the liquid that we all learned
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Jenevermuseum Hasselt’s exterior and (below) its cafe
“BY 2000 THERE WERE ALMOST NO FAMILY DISTILLERIES LEFT. NOWADAYS YOU SEE SMALL, LOCAL DISTILLERS PRODUCING SMALL BATCHES, FOR THE LOCAL MARKET—LOCAL RESTAURANTS, LOCAL CAFES. THERE’S A REAL FOCUS ON CRAFTSMANSHIP.” —DAVY JACOBS OF JENEVERMUSEUM HASSELT JANUARY 20 22
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JENEVER OR GENEVER? You’ve probably seen jenever spelled with both a ‘j’ and a ‘g.’ I used to think it was a Belgium vs. Holland thing, but as it turns out, there’s really no rhyme or reason to it. Some prefer the ‘j’ and some the ‘g’, regardless of where they’re from. I personally adopted the ‘j’ spelling because that’s the letter my name starts with.
about from test tubes in our high school chemistry classes.) While there are many bars like Dutch Courage that still pour their jenevers in that manner—like Dutch Courage, which boasts some 150 selections with which to experience a kopstootje—Vismans is more of a fan of drinking it from a snifter, as you’re able to experience more of the aroma when there’s some distance between the liquid and your nose. And, there’s very little danger of spilling it, since there’s plenty of space to spare in the glass. Vismans has what any jenever aficionado would consider a Wonka-like dream job. He works on fully restored, fully operational late-19th-century coal-fired pot stills that double as exhibit pieces. And it’s all within a multi-level museum—itself the former site of a commercial distillery—that celebrates 400plus years of Dutch distilling heritage, with all sorts of artifacts and ephemera that help tell
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Some Belgian jenever brands
Tess Posthumus at her Amsterdam cocktail bar, Flying Dutchmen
the spirit’s story. And it couldn’t be located in a more appropriate place, as Schiedam, historically, had been the epicenter of the country’s jenever-making tradition. At its pinnacle in the 19th century, there were around 400 distilleries making the stuff just within the Schiedam city limits. The city became literally synonymous with jenever. Travelers far and wide would ask for bottles of “Schiedam,” the same way they would order sparkling white wine from the Champagne region of France. The brand that Vismans produces at the museum leans into that heritage, bearing the moniker Old Schiedam. The line of malt and rye-based jenevers includes four base products, as well as a series of limited-editions and one-offs. In addition to its original flagship, there’s a 118-proof cask-strength single-cask offering, a 10-year-aged version and one that spends three years in Pedro Ximenez sherry casks. Beyond the museum-owned jenevers,
Vismans also produces his own brand, Rudy—his nickname since he was 12— through his Haarlem-based company Stokerij Vismans. Like the Old Schiedam varieties, Rudy is decidedly maltwine-forward—the old or “oude” style of jenever, versus the young or “jonge” style, which contains much less maltwine content and is closer to neutral. Even though there’s a renaissance of oudestyle jenever production, the jonge style still accounts for the vast majority of jenever produced. It’s what most of the Dutch public thinks of when someone mentions the spirit and Vismans is among the producers, bar professionals and enthusiasts working to change that perception. “Everyone thinks [jenever] is this neutral alcohol, [kept] really cold and drunk by their grandfathers, saying, ‘I don’t want that, that’s disgusting,” Vismans says. “I understand and I agree, mainly because the type of jenever they’re referring to is not so nice. The reason you put it in the fridge is to chill it down to calm it down. But if you get the right brand of jenever, you are [a fan] for life.” Those looking for the “right” brand, are likely to find it (and many others) just around the corner at ‘t Spul, a Schiedam jenever-focused bar that carries hundreds of selections. It also houses the Borrelmuseum—yes, Schiedam has room for two jenever museums, believe it or not—containing countless antique bottles, bottle washers, serving vessels, marketing swag and vintage ads that complement the collection at the national museum. If you’re lucky, ‘T Spul proprietor and jenever historian Rob van Klaarwater will geek out, offer some show-and-tell and talk your ear off about centuries of jenever history in Schiedam and beyond. But the story of jenever really is the tale of two cities—in two countries. Schiedam’s counterpart across the border, Hasselt, Belgium, has a jenever museum of its own, also housed within the walls of a 19th-century commercial
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distillery. And, like the Schiedam venue, there’s a functional production facility inside— also with restored, 100-year-old equipment— where distiller Steven Reekmans produces the museum’s own varieties of jenever that visitors can purchase in snazzy, wedge-shaped painted ceramic bottles. But instead of having to head to a pub down the road to sample the city’s best selection, you don’t have to leave Jenevermuseum Hasselt’s property to taste a wide array. The museum’s café carries some 120 different bottles. As it was in Schiedam, Hasselt’s jenever
heyday was in the mid-19th century—albeit on a smaller scale as the number of distilleries in the city center peaked in the double digits— but, as Jenevermuseum Hasselt director Davy Jacobs notes, the boom was fairly short-lived. “It was very big, but it only lasted 20 to 30 years,” he explains. “Jenever production collapsed by the end of the 19th century. It’s ambiguous as to why.” There likely wasn’t any single root cause for the rapid downturn. For one thing, the antialcohol lobby picked up steam at that point. The beer industry, which was very powerful
(this is Belgium, after all), also lobbied against jenever. The advent of column stills put pressure on distillers to increase their output to compete with other spirits from other regions that were cranking out product through continuous distillation. That strained the raw material supply, forcing distillers to look for lower quality substrates that were more abundantly available than grain. Then in the early 20th century, World War I came along to punctuate the whole period of decline. “By 2000 there were almost no family distilleries left,” Jacobs says. “Nowadays you see
JENEVER CHEAT SHEET Maltwine: It’s not wine at all, it’s a grain distillate (moutwijn in Dutch), not unlike an unaged whiskey. The more maltwine content the jenever has (it’s usually blended with neutral spirit in jenever production), the more grain character it will exhibit. Jonge jenever: The “young” style of jenever—but don’t let the term confuse you. It has nothing to do with aging, only that the style itself is newer. Its lower maltwine content (a minimum of 1.5% but lower than 15%) makes it more neutral in character. Most of the flavor will come from the botanicals (among which juniper must be present, regardless of how small a quantity). Oude jenever: The “old” style of jenever, which has a significantly higher maltwine content, showcases more of the grain character in the finished spirit. Its malt wine content has to be at least 15% (and often is much greater than that). Today’s craft jenever producers have been reviving the oude style. Moutwijn jenever: Sometimes a bottle will be labeled as moutwijn (“maltwine”) if it has a very high concentration of malt wine—often close to 100% (which, once upon a time, was the case for all jenevers). It’s not an official, EU-recognized category Korenwyn (sometimes Corenwyn, Korenwijn or Koornwyn): It basically means “grain wine” and it’s not actually jenever because it often doesn’t have any juniper in it at all.
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The distillery at the National Jenever Museum in Schiedam runs on 19th century coal-fired technology.
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A SMALL FLIGHT Here are a few modern jenever brands from the Netherlands and Belgium.
30%—and Smeets Miild, another 30% ABV jenever with a milder flavor.
Boompjes: Onder de Boompjes Distillery, one of a handful of distilleries currently operating in the historical jenever city of Schiedam, produces a variety of jenevers. Its flagship is a jonge style, but with a relatively high malt wine content for the style: 10%. Boompjes Old Dutch is an oude with 20% malt wine, aged for three years. Boompjest Maltwine is a jenever with 100% malt wine—from rye, malt and corn—and aged for four to five years in American oak.
Hasseltse Graan Jenever: The house brand at Jenevermuseum Hasselt
Hooghoudt: The Groningen, Netherlandsbased Hooghoudt family has been distilling since 1888. Its modern line includes Raw Genever/Holland Gin is its unaged, 100% malt wine jenever; Sweet Spiced Genever includes vanilla, cinnamon, licorice, mace and coriander, giving it some distinct candy-like characteristics; and Aged Genever, which spends five years in oloroso sherry casks. De Borgen: Hooghoudt Distillery is also the production site for the De Borgen line, which includes its Old Style, whose base consists of a blend of 17-year-old and unaged malt spirit. Filliers: Filliers Distillery in Deinze, Belgium has been distilling since 1880. Its line starts with the unaged flagship, Young & Pure, and progresses through 8-, 17- and 21-yearold versions. Smeets: The best-known Belgian brand, Smeets, founded in Hasselt in 1921, produces the 35% ABV Extra, Hasselt 30—a lower-proof version of Extra with an ABV of
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Braeckman: Braeckman Distillers in Oudenaarde, Belgium, began operating in 1918 and produces a range that includes unaged Single Grain and Single Malt jenevers, a 10-year-old Single Grain and Oude Braeckman, and old-style made with 25% malt wine and aged for six years in American oak. The portfolio also includes a Korenwijn, packaged in a classic ceramic cylindrical bottle. Rudy’s: When he’s not running the distillery at the National Jenevermuseum in Schiedam, Rutger Vismans is producing his own brand of malt wine jenever in Haarlem. Old Duff: Philip Duff of Liquid Solutions launched this brand, which features two varieties: The signature Old Duff, wth a 53% malt wine content and Old Duff 100% Malt Wine. It’s produced at the Herman Jansen Distillery in Schiedam, which has been continuously operating since 1777. (Herman Jansen also producers jenever brands like Bobby’s and Notaris.) Rutte: Now part of De Kuyper, Rutte, founded in 1872, continues to operate a small storefront distillery in Dordrecht, Netherlands (most of the volume is produced at the De Kuyper facility in Schiedam.) Jenevers range from jonge to oude, as well as some more experimental ones like Single Malt, Single Oat, Paradyswyn 100% maltwine jenever and Koornwyn XO Extra Oak.
“EVERYONE THINKS [JENEVER] IS THIS NEUTRAL ALCOHOL, [KEPT] REALLY COLD AND DRUNK BY THEIR GRANDFATHERS, SAYING, ‘I DON’T WANT THAT, THAT’S DISGUSTING.’ I UNDERSTAND AND I AGREE, MAINLY BECAUSE THE TYPE OF JENEVER THEY’RE REFERRING TO IS NOT SO NICE. THE REASON YOU PUT IT IN THE FRIDGE IS TO CHILL IT DOWN TO CALM IT DOWN. BUT IF YOU GET THE RIGHT BRAND OF JENEVER, YOU ARE [A FAN] FOR LIFE.” —RUTGER VISMANS OF THE NATIONAL JENEVER MUSEUM
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Vintage jenever bottles
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Rutger Vismans of the National Jenever Museum in Schiedam
small, local distillers producing small batches, for the local market—local restaurants, local cafes. There’s a real focus on craftsmanship.” He’s also starting to see jenever show up more and more as a cocktail ingredient in Belgian bars. “Bartenders are very eager to do experiments with different kinds of Belgian jenever in cocktails,” he says. The craft cocktail boom is what really will connect today’s younger, legal-drinking-age consumers in Belgium and the Netherlands with their native spirit. That’s been a big part of Posthumus’s mission at her two Amsterdam bars—creating a gateway to jenever by showcasing how well it plays in classic mixed drinks. And regardless of which side of the border you’re on, you’re likely to find a mix of jenever selections from both countries. Jenever’s most devout evangelists have better things to do than argue over whether the spirit was born in Holland or Flanders. “We can’t be sure of where it originated,” says Jacobs. “The first time jenever was drunk, Belgium and Holland were one country. I always say ‘it was probably invented somewhere between Antwerp and Amsterdam.’” ■
Part of the collection in ‘t Spul’s Borrelmuseum
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‘t Spul’s Rob van Klaarwater
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Distribution and Logistics
BOTTLE SHOCK Craft distillers are feeling the impact of the supply chain disruption in various ways, but especially when it comes to glass bottles. BY ANDREW KAPLAN
The pandemic has forced many of us to no longer take certain things for granted. For craft distillers, add to the list glass bottles, as an ongoing shortage has only continued to deepen in the past few months. In fact, difficulty in obtaining bottles has many distilleries now jumping on almost any they can get their hands on. They are often not the ones they would normally use, and do not necessarily fit their production requirements. And yet, they are willing to take a chance and even absorb the higher costs that
“It’s gotten to the point now where it’s not a question of when we’re going to get glass, it’s if.”
come from having to purchase greater quantities, and often at higher shipping rates. And, in a self-fulfilling cycle, observers say this panicked rush to buy more and as early as possible is only helping to fuel what is becoming an acute bottle shortage. “Because of the delivery delays the market is facing, and to avoid the risk of supply shortages, customers tend to artificially increase their stocks,” says Romain Bacus, VP of operations at Saverglass. “This, coupled with the organic growth of the market, further amplifies
the shortage phenomenon.” Mark Allen of Lazy Guy Distillery in Kennesaw, Georgia, recently purchased “two pallets of odd-shaped bottles out of Canada,” he says. “A guy had a container up there and sight unseen I bought two pallets worth.” The freight cost him $800, up from $300, he says. “It’s the most expensive bottle I’ve ever bought in my life and it’s the cheapest quality,” he adds. When he called the supplier to get more, he was told they were already out of stock. “I’ll never have those again.”
Lazy Guy Distillery
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“I actually had to take out a line of credit and order a few pallets. And I probably have enough to about February or March. But after that? I’m concerned. I don’t know what’s going to happen.”
Eric Montemagni of Loup River Distilling
Cathy Plourde and Kara Larson of Rhode Island Spirits
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William Lee of Gate 11 Distillery
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PHOTO: JULIE HOLDER, POMKT CREATIVE MARKETPLACE
He says one of his normal suppliers told him it may not be until the first or second quarter of 2022 when they will have more bottles in stock. The situation has forced Allen to make hard choices. “We’ve cut off all distribution,” he says. “We’ve got about 150-200 bottles left and that’s got to last us until next year, which it won’t. I just don’t see any relief in it,” he adds. “It’s gotten to the point now where it’s not a question of when we’re going to get glass, it’s if.” And the impact cascades. Allen is now raising some prices, passing on all these higher costs to his customers. “That’s for the first time in our history,” he says. The glass bottle shortage is impacting distillers across the country. In St. Paul, Nebraska, Eric Montemagni, co-owner of Loup River Distilling, is also watching his supply dwindle. “I was fortunate enough to have good suppliers and they told me to order ahead,” he says. “I actually had to take out a line of credit and order a few pallets. And I probably have enough to about February or March. But after that? I’m concerned. I don’t know what’s going to happen.” He adds, “I’m just concerned about going forward and what’s going to happen to the little guys like me—I’m a very small distiller—if we’re going to be able to get (the bottles) we need. I’m also talking to my label guy and he says they’re having trouble sourcing paper.” William Lee, founder and master distiller at
PHOTO: TREVOR HOLDEN
—Eric Montemagni of Loup River Distilling
The team at Red River Brewing Co. & Distillery
Gate 11 Distillery in Chattanooga, Tennessee, says having good relationships with his suppliers has helped him secure enough labels and grain, but delays with his imported 750mL bottles has sent him scrambling. “In the case of our smaller bottles, we’ve actually had to switch our supplier there and switch bottle design to ensure supply,” he says. For the New Mexico-based Red River Brewing Co. & Distillery’s Michael Calhoun, securing a supply of 750-mL bottles has not only been expensive, but also time consuming. “It’s been a bit of a learning curve because we’re accustomed to dealing with suppliers who handle a lot of the supply chain logistics for us,” he says. “[Now] we have to navigate that ourselves and track down the manufacturers and establish relationships directly with them and handle the details of importing large quantities ourselves.” He says they ended up importing a shipping container at a time instead of a pallet or two from Hiking Glass Co. in China. Calhoun says he’s also had some, albeit lesser, challenges as of late securing enough yeast, organic blue agave and corks. “But those delays were a few weeks or a month or so,” he says. “Minor inconveniences that have forced us to plan ahead more than we were accustomed to and maybe carry a little more
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inventory than we were accustomed to. Both of which aren’t necessarily bad things. Just forcing us to do things a little differently than we’re used to.” And yet, Calhoun admits it does put a strain on his budget. “We have more capital just sitting on the shelves or on pallets in the corner than we’re used to,” he says. “It’s an expense that we haven’t normally had to deal with.” In Pawtucket, Rhode Island, Kara Larson and Cathy Plourde, owners of Rhode Island Spirits, have the same challenge. “The hardest thing for us,” says Plourde, “is a cash flow issue, because we have to stockpile materials, inventory, packaging specifically, so that we are able to put product out. Prior to this, we had tried to run a pretty tight order-asneeded business model and this has meant that had to go out the window. Our buying is now tying up a lot more of our assets and cash flow, which is a challenge.” Larson explains that the bottle shortage
has resulted in them having to make the hard choice of whether to bottle product or save the bottles they do have for a possible order on a more profitable item. “We’re tight enough that if we bottled a couple of hundred cases worth of our classic gin today and a Forager’s Gin order came in, we wouldn’t have more bottles to put that in,” she says. “So instead of having a smooth, predictable production process and a flow of stuff that is manageable, we’re just doing weird fits and starts depending on what the world is telling us they want or can give us today.” In a recent American Craft Spirit Association (ACSA) survey, 77% of distillers selected glass bottles as their number one supply chain issue, the number one problem on the list by far, followed by closures, (42%), merchandise (35%), and cardboard (26%). And yet, ironically, U.S. manufactured shipments of glass bottles have risen in the past year, according to the Glass Packaging
“Everybody started to replenish their inventory at the same time, putting a lot of pressure on the glass manufacturers.” —Romain Bacus of Saverglass C R AF T S PI R I T S MAG .CO M
Institute (GPI), up 3% year to date through the third quarter of 2021. This equates to 23 million additional bottles. Furthermore, empty 750-mL bottles imported into the U.S. for fill by both spirits and wine producers are up 158 million bottles through the end of September 2021, versus the year before, an increase of about 14%, according to the U.S. International Trade Commission. The problem for craft distillers is that much of the domestic supply of glass bottles is contracted to bigger beverage marketers. “The bigger players have contracts in place with the suppliers, and therefore often have more leverage than the craft distillers when it comes to prioritizing their orders,” explains Bacus. And yet California port delays, the truck driver shortage, and other supply-chain problems have made it harder than ever to obtain bottles from suppliers abroad, such as Asia. Adding to the problem was the initial ebbing of the pandemic: “Everybody started to replenish their inventory at the same time, putting a lot of pressure on the glass manufacturers,” says Bacus. Getting Through the Shortage When the supply of glass bottles will return to normal can only be estimated at this time. Most believe the shortages are likely to continue through 2022, and perhaps into 2023. “Since this problem has many root causes,” says Bacus, “it is difficult to clearly establish a forecast at the moment, but I would say not before Q4 of 2022, even early 2023. In regard to glass manufacturing, despite the investments and measures Saverglass had implemented to increase the production capacity, we are still facing difficulties fulfilling the surge in demand. And as far as port congestion and container delays are concerned, our freight forwarder partners do not see any improvement before Q4 2022.” According to Bacus, Saverglass is recommending its customers supply it with their most reliable forecasts for at least six months in advance and up to 12 months. “This is not an easy exercise especially for craft distilleries, but it is crucial they do this exercise in order to protect their supply,” he says. “Based on that, we enter everything in our forecasting system directly linked to our production planning. Since we are both the manufacturer and distributor of our own products, we have better control over this forecasting process. When we determine it is time for the customers to confirm their forecast, we let them know and they place their order. As some items
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are in higher demand than others, or some items are less easily available, it is difficult to provide an idea of timing and it’s more on a case-by-case basis. “In addition to providing forecasts, we currently do not recommend our customers to switch to a different bottle in the short term, mainly because we have already budgeted their needs and shared that with our production teams (ahead of receiving their forecasts). Indeed, based on our sales history with our customers, we are able to analyze the stock coverage we have for them and we can adjust our production and spread the needs at best.” There is also some long-term good news for the domestic glass supply, says Scott DeFife, GPI’s president. “Spirits production currently makes up about 6% of overall North American glass production, so there is certainly room for more growth there,” he says. He also says more U.S. glass bottles plants that can cater to craft distillers have been coming online in recent years, citing for example a new Arglass plant that opened in Georgia. In the meantime, being the resourceful group that they are, craft distillers are not waiting. Geoff Longenecker, founder and distiller at Seven Caves Spirits in San Diego, says many distillers like himself are used to coming up with solutions under pressure. “Many of us that were involved in the hand sanitizer business for a while definitely became resourceful,” he says. “We got into the rhythm of having to solve problems on a daily basis.” To help prevent any disruptions from the current bottle shortage, Longenecker says he purposefully built flexibility into his bottling operation. “From the get-go I built my shop with a variety of different glass bottles,” he says. “If one of my bottle styles isn’t available, I can find something similar and my customer base won’t be too disappointed.” Incorporating flexibility into their operation is also helping Rhode Island Spirits. “We made a few decisions that were somewhat smart,” says Plourde. “We did things like make the same size label for a couple of different products. … So making decisions that are going to keep yourself as flexible and responsive as possible.” Adds Larson, “I think it’s also important, especially for small producers, to not wed themselves to custom packaging because that really has been what saved us. We made the decision in the beginning to use a stock bottle [available from] a number of different
Inventory at Rhode Island Spirits
manufacturers and brokers. And so we can hop from one train to another.” And maybe this is a good time for craft distillers to press their distributors for more domestically-sourced glass bottles, suggests GPI’s president DeFife. “I think the question that we can work on together is,” he says, “let’s build a more resilient supply chain for spirits bottles. If enough distillers say, ‘Hey, we care about where our bottles come from; we want a more resilient supply chain; we want you to source bottles from North America,’ then maybe we can get some more plants built, more contracts especially with the craft distillers because very few of the craft distillers are buying enough bottles by themselves to have a direct contract with a U.S. manufacturer.” In the meantime, distillers like Calhoun, at Red River, are trying to make the best of just one more challenge caused by the pandemic. “We’ve had to get better at planning and forecasting,” he says, “and just get better at being disappointed. Just accept that there’s some things that we used to be able to do that we just can’t do now. And coming to peace with that.” And Rhode Island Spirits’ Plourde has one last tip most would appreciate in these chaotic times: “And make sure you make a product you like to drink.” ■
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human resources
SHORT-STAFFED The long-term plan to ease the labor shortage BY JOHN HOLL
As a new year begins, there is a list of worries and woes throughout the hospitality industry that looks an awful lot like the issues from the previous year. Near the top remains the labor shortage, at first impacted by COVID-19 and then subject to the great resignation and job migration. “It’s so hard to find good help that wants to work in hospitality right now,” said Sam Calagione, the founder and brewer of Dogfish Head, which runs a brewery, distillery, and hotel when asked about which facet of the business was hardest to operate. “So, our hospitality businesses to some degree, including the hotel, but definitely our restaurants, which are right now in limited hours of operations, because we can’t get help even though demand is there. That’s the real challenge.” The pandemic’s effect on hospitality workers speaks volumes. The American Craft Spirits Association and Park Street recently presented highlights from the latest installment of the annual Craft Spirits Data Project. And while it showed that craft distilleries, export growth and volume growth continue
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to rise, it also showed that the number of fulltime domestic employees of craft spirit producers fell by nearly half from 2019 to 2020. Help wanted signs abound in restaurant and tavern windows, online job boards seeking help get few, if any, pageviews. Veteran workers say they are fed up with long hours, low pay, poor customer interaction and more. Downtime during the pandemic shifted the labor force to other industries, leaving owners in all areas of hospitality looking at meaningful ways to bring new talent to their doorstep, and then retain it. As 2021 see-sawed between good news, more worry, vaccines, and variants, craft distillers across the country continued on, producing spirits, pouring in tasting rooms, crafting cocktails, and operating kitchens where applicable. Having a properly trained and engaged staff has just been another challenge looking for opportunity. “Regionally, where I am in southern Arizona, we have little labor available for the skills I need,” says Mark Beres, the founder and CEO of Flying Leap Vineyard and Distillery in
Elgin, Arizona. “If I need a shift distiller, I need to bring them in from somewhere else with experience or train them for a while if they are from here. Nothing about COVID or government policies exacerbated that situation.” To that end he says that the company has worked hard to make jobs attractive to both prospective employees and current staff. “We actually started funding employee healthcare right before COVID hit,” he says. “We introduced a 401k with a match and are constantly coming up with new initiatives. In a business like ours we need to make the whole package more valuable to keep the talent happy and here.” The minimum wage is a difficult conversation for many small business owners to have. There is a need to balance a company’s longterm potential with profitability while also meeting worker’s expectations. Over the last two years, those expectations have shifted and what might have seemed reasonable can now be seen as insulting. With the rising cost of raw materials and further uncertainty due to the pandemic,
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some in the hospitality industry are continuing with a skeleton staff. Others are doubling down and moving employees to full-time status with additional responsibilities. “It’s been an amazing evolution over the last 18 to 20 months. We were able to keep all of our full-time employees through bottle sales and PPP [payment protection program], including people on the restaurant side,” says Meredith Meyer Grelli, co-founder and owner of Wigle Distillery and Threadbare Cider & Mead in Pittsburgh. The company did have a lot of part-time workers and Meyer Grelli says that in all the company did drop from 175 employees to fewer than 50. In 2021 staffing was built up again to around 110, and many were added as fulltime workers. “We might never get to that 175 number again,” she says. The employees that have stayed and the ones that have come on have also benefited from employee incentives like health care and retirement plans. The recruiting process for new hires has also changed with the pandemic. Previously the company would post available jobs on the internet and receive dozens of resumes from people interested in restaurant to beverage alcohol work. The last time she posted a kitchen job, she said the company received zero responses. “That’s not an exaggeration. Zero people responded,” she says. The company incentivized current employees to make referrals to family, friends, roommates, or anyone else they knew looking for a job,” Meyer Grelli said. Having existing employees vouch for a hospitality business “is more meaningful than anything someone from human resources can say during an interview. People are so selective right now they aren’t going to believe what we say in an ad.” Industry-wide, Meyer Grelli believes there is an evolution that needs to happen, to look at long-term viability with a skilled and happy workforce. Beres agrees. “This is not a unique situation to distilling,” he says. Another benefit distillers have instituted in recent years is better vacation time and more flexible schedules. Realizing the pressure of a competitive industry and customer service as well as the outside pressures and situations that exist, these companies realize that well rested and generally relaxed employees are working better and safer. “It’s the whole paycheck concept,” says Beres. “It’s not just money but what else comes with it.”
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His company has also devised a layered bonus structure for sales staff, tied to metrics with stretch goals included. That has helped the business grow and employees competitive. “I don’t look at staffing as competing with other wineries or distilleries, we’re competing with other businesses. We have one thing
going for us in that this is a fun industry, people like working in the drinks business. When we parlay that fun into making it lucrative and valuable to employees with time off, and healthcare or vehicles for our wholesale reps, we’re making each position valuable and it helps to keep turnover very low.” Jon Page contributed to this report. ■
With the rising cost of raw materials and further uncertainty due to the pandemic, some in the hospitality industry are continuing with a skeleton staff. Others are doubling down and moving employees to fulltime status with additional responsibilities.
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legal corner
IS YOUR WEBSITE ADA COMPLIANT? For some businesses, the Americans with Disabilities Act extends beyond brick-and-mortar operations to the digital world. BY ASHLEY L. HANKE, ESQ.
The Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA), which became law in 1990, is a civil rights law that prohibits discrimination against individuals with disabilities in areas of everyday life, including transportation, jobs, schools, and public and private places that are open to the general public. The purpose of the ADA is to
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ensure that people with disabilities have the same rights and opportunities as everyone else in public accommodations, employment, transportation, and state and local government services. ADA lawsuits concerning website accessibility have increased substantially over the
past few years and are only expected to increase with time. As more and more businesses receive demand letters or find themselves litigating accessibility lawsuits in civil court, it is important to determine whether you could be subject to an ADA lawsuit for noncompliance with website accessibility requirements.
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Meeting these standards improves the accessibility of your website to individuals with various impairments or learning disabilities.
When it comes to website compliance, many businesses are confused as to whether the ADA’s accessibility requirements apply to them, since the Act is often associated with brick-and-mortar business locations and tangible accommodations such as wheelchair accessibility, adding elevators or stairlifts to a physical structure, or the use of braille. However, the ADA also extends to the digital world, requiring some businesses to ensure website content is accessible to all users. Here are a few questions and answers to consider. Do the ADA’s accessibility requirements apply to my distillery or my brand’s website? Although certain accessibility provisions don’t always apply to small businesses—such as Title I of the ADA, which requires employers with 15 or more employees to provide certain reasonable accommodations to employees, but exempts private employers with fewer than 15 employees—other provisions, such as Title III of the ADA, apply to all businesses that provide goods or services to the public, regardless of size. Therefore, since craft distilleries manufacture and sell goods, and may even provide services directly to the public, such as engaging in contract production, offering consultation services, distillery tours, educational seminars or renting out distillery space for private events, the majority of distillery websites should be made accessible. And, even without a brick-and-mortar distillery, accessibility requirements apply to many spirits brands’ websites that market goods for sale to the public and facilitate the purchase of goods on the brands’ websites.
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What are the ADA accessibility guidelines for websites? Unfortunately, there are currently no statutes or regulations that clearly define ADA accessibility requirements for websites, but there has been case law on the topic of website accessibility, most of which has held that accessibility must be “reasonable.” The Department of Justice (DOJ) has taken the position that Title III of the ADA covers internet website access, mobile applications and other digital mediums, but it has refrained from issuing website accessibility regulations, leaving the courts to interpret what “reasonable” website accessibility looks like. How do I comply with the ADA accessibility guidelines without clear guidance? Improving the accessibility of your distillery or brand’s website can be done multiple ways, including some that are not immediately obvious. And, although in the majority of website accessibility cases courts have declined to expressly adopt the Web Content Accessibility Guidelines (WCAG) as a legal standard for evaluating accessibility, the DOJ has referenced WCAG standards in a number of settlements and court filings and for most businesses, working to meet the WCAG 2.0/2.1 AA criteria is considered best practice. The WCAG 2.1 guidelines ensure that website content may be interpreted by various platforms, is easy to understand, easily navigable, and that website content is easily perceived. Examples of these guidelines include alternate text for images, transcripts for audio, making content readable and predictable, keyboard accessibilities, and website compatibility with assistive technologies.
Meeting these standards improves the accessibility of your website to individuals with various impairments or learning disabilities. In addition to independently reviewing the WCAG, it is always recommended to work with third-party digital compliance experts who will ensure that your websites, mobile apps and other forms of digital media are accessible through the use of website testing and website remediation using the WCAG 2.1 guidelines. It is important to keep in mind that the benefits of ensuring website accessibility are likely to outweigh the costs associated with WCAG 2.1 compliance. In addition to the legal and financial liabilities that could be avoided by consulting with an expert and ensuring website accessibility prior to receiving a demand letter or commencing litigation, website accessibility will most certainly broaden your customer base and ensure that disabled populations have equal access to your goods and services. ■
Ashley L. Hanke, Esq. is an attorney at Malkin Law, P.A., a law firm serving the alcohol beverage industry. Ms. Hanke’s practice focuses on a wide variety of regulatory and compliance matters involving alcohol beverage industry members. Nothing in this article is intended to be and should not be construed as specific legal advice.
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closing time
FAIR SHARE The American Craft Spirits Association (ACSA) and Park Street recently unveiled the 2021 Craft Spirits Data Project. First introduced in 2016, the project is a first-of-its-kind research initiative that aims to provide a solid and reliable fact base for evaluating performance and trends in the U.S. craft spirits industry. Among the highlights, the U.S. craft spirits market share of total U.S. spirits reached 4.7% in volume and 7.1% in value in 2020, up from 2.2% in volume and 3% in value in 2015 and 4.6% in volume and 6.9% in value in 2019.
Craft Distiller Sales as a Share of Total U.S. Spirits Volume and Value SHARE VOLUME
2015
2016
2017
2018
2019
7.1%
4.7%
6.9%
4.6%
5.8%
3.9%
4.6%
3.2%
3.8%
2.6%
3%
2%
SHARE VALUE
2020
Sources: TTB, ACSA, IWSR, State ABC Boards, State Guilds, Team Analyses
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C R AF T S PI R I T S MAG .CO M
THERE IS
STRENGTH IN MEMBERS
The American Craft Spirits Association (ACSA) is the only national association of craft distillers created and governed by craft distillers. Our mission is to elevate and advocate for the community of craft spirits producers.
WHY JOIN? •
Build long-term relationships and enhance industry connections
•
Help cultivate a competitive landscape for craft distillers
•
Learn from industry thought leaders
•
Increase market access
TAKE ADVANTAGE OF MEMBERSHIP ONLY OPPORTUNITIES BY
JOINING TODAY! A: P.O. Box 470, Oakton, VA, 22124 E: membership@americancraftspirits.org W: americancraftspirits.org
FREE TO MEMBERS
Quench your thirst for knowledge in ACSA’s Craft Spirits Classroom. For more information or to register, visit our website at https://americancraftspirits.org/education/webinars
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