Craft Spirits March/April 2022

VOL. 4, ISSUE 1 | MARCH/APRIL 2022

CRAFT SPIRITS

DISTRIBUTION & LOGISTICS

PREPARING FOR THE NEXT CRISIS LEGAL CORNER

SUPPLY CONTRACTS

THE ART, SCIENCE AND BUSINESS OF DISTILLING

HARVESTING HERITAGE DISTILLERS HAVE A FIELD DAY WITH HEIRLOOM RYE

A PUBLICATION OF THE AMERICAN CR AF T SPIRITS ASSOCIATION

DistilaZyme

®

Process aids for higher ethanol yield and fermentation consistency.

View our extensive offering of craft distilling inputs at lallemandcraftdistilling.com.

CONTENTS

MARCH/APRIL 2022

50

FEATURES 42

Seeding a Revival Adventures in growing and distilling heirloom rye

BY JEFF CIOLETTI

56

50

Finishing Touches Distillers explore new depth in flavor with secondary finishing.

BY TOM BENTLEY

56

MEMBER SPOTLIGHT Proud Legacy Built for contract distilling, Kentucky Artisan Distillery forges ahead while honoring its past.

BY JON PAGE

60

DISTILLING DESTINATIONS The Central Ohio Spirits Destination

60

Columbus launches a distillery trail to raise awareness and interest.

BY JOHN HOLL

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DEPARTMENTS

14

8

Editor’s Note

12

Contributors

NEW SPIRITS 14

Recent releases from Talnua Distillery, Green River Distilling Co. and more

IMBIBER’S BOOKSHELF 20 INDUSTRY UPDATE 21

32

Heaven Hill Acquires Samson & Surrey

LEW’S BOTTOM SHELF 30 Whiskey & Brisket

BY LEW BRYSON

WHAT’S STIRRING 32

Flavorful concoctions from Spotted Bear Spirits, Mountain Laurel Spirits, Driftless Glen Distillery, Smugglers’ Notch Distillery and Hinterhaus Distilling

ACSA AFFAIRS 36

38

ACSA conducts election for national board of directors Government affairs roundup

STEPUP 38

Passion for Taste

BY ERIN LEE

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C R AF T S PI R I T S MAG .CO M

Stay on top of the news.

66 DISTRIBUTION & LOGISTICS 66

Planning for the Next Big Thing

RETAIL 70

What’s in Store

Being prepared for disaster both big and small can keep the wheels of business turning.

A Q&A with John Bodnovich, executive director of American Beverage Licensees

BY JOHN HOLL

PRODUCTION 72

LEGAL CORNER 68 Out of stock?

Contract considerations during the supply chain disruption

BY COREY DAY AND CRAIG PACHECO

Positive Impact A Q&A with Cate Crabtree of WV Great Barrel Co.

CLOSING TIME 74

Spirits Leading Off-Premise Growth

Visit us online at craftspiritsmag.com.

The latest market data from NielsenIQ

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CRAFT SPIRITS MAGAZINE C EO, A M E R I C A N C R A F T S P I R I T S A S S O C I AT I O N | Margie A.S. Lehrman, margie@americancraftspirits.org E D I TO R I N C H I E F | Jeff Cioletti, jeff@americancraftspirits.org S E N I O R E D I TO R | Jon Page, jon@americancraftspirits.org S A L E S & D E V E LO P M E N T M A N AG E R | Ashley Guillermo, ashley@americancraftspirits.org A RT D I R EC TO R | Michelle Villas CO N T R I B U TO R S | Tom Bentley, Lew Bryson, Corey Day, John Holl, Erin Lee and Craig Pacheco AMERICAN CRAFT SPIRITS ASSOCIATION E D U C AT I O N CO O R D I N ATO R | Kirstin Brooks, kirstin@americancraftspirits.org M E M B E R O U T R E AC H M A N AG E R | Carason Lehmann, carason@americancraftspirits.org ACSA ADVISORS M E E T I N G S A N D LO G I S T I C S | Stephanie Sadri, HelmsBriscoe S T R AT EG I C CO M M U N I C AT I O N S | Alexandra S. Clough, GATHER PR L EG A L | Ryan Malkin, Malkin Law, P.A. P U B L I C P O L I C Y | Jim Hyland, The Pennsylvania Avenue Group ACSA BOARD OF DIRECTORS, 2020-2021 P R E S I D E N T | Becky Harris, Catoctin Creek Distilling Co. (VA) V I C E P R E S I D E N T | P.T. Wood, Wood’s High Mountain Distillery (CO) S EC R E TA RY/ T R E A S U R E R | Jeff Kanof, Copperworks Distilling Co. (WA)

EAST Ryan Christiansen, Caledonia Spirits (VT) Becky Harris, Catoctin Creek (VA) Jessica J. Lemmon, Cart/Horse Distilling (PA) Tom Potter, New York Distilling Co. (NY)

CENTRAL & MOUNTAIN Gina Holman, J. Carver Distillery (MN) Colin Keegan, Santa Fe Spirits (NM) Thomas Mote, Balcones Distillery (TX) Amber Pollock, Backwards Distilling Company (WY) Colton Weinstein, Corsair Artisan Distillery (TN) P.T. Wood, Wood’s High Mountain Distillery (CO)

PACIFIC Dan Farber, Osocalis Distillery (CA) Jake Holshue, Rogue Ales & Spirits (OR) Jeff Kanof, Copperworks Distilling Company (WA) Molly Troupe, Freeland Spirits (OR)

EX OFFICIO Thomas Jensen, New Liberty Distillery (PA) ACSA PAC Stephen Johnson, Genius Liquids (TX) ACSA PAST PRESIDENTS 2 0 1 9 -2 0 2 0 | Chris Montana, Du Nord Craft Spirits 2 0 1 7-2 0 1 8 | Mark Shilling, Genius Liquids/Big Thirst 2 0 1 6 -2 0 1 7 | Paul Hletko, FEW Spirits 2 0 1 4 -2 0 1 6 | Tom Mooney, House Spirits CRAFT SPIRITS MAGAZINE EDITORIAL BOARD Eli Aguilera, Lew Bryson, Alexandra Clough, Sly Cosmopoulos, Dan Gasper, Dr. Dawn Maskell For advertising inquiries, please contact Ashley Guillermo: ashley@americancraftspirits.org.

For editorial inquiries or to send a news release, e-mail news@americancraftspirits.org.

P.O. Box 470, Oakton, VA 22124 © 2022 CRAFT SPIRITS magazine is a publication of the American Craft Spirits Association.

Editor’s Note

COVID-ERA CONSUMER CALCULATIONS Back at the beginning of February (which, to be honest, already feels like a lifetime ago), I attended the Wine & Spirits Daily Summit in lovely Coronado, California. The fact that it was in-person—save for a couple of presenters who had to Zoom in—was another sign that things are slowly, but surely getting back to normal.

Normal, of course, is not the normal we remember and it perhaps never will be again.

Even the way industry data points were presented had a pandemic-era spin on them. There was a lot of comparing 2021 figures to 2019, when traditionally such comparisons were between one calendar year and the 12-month period immediately preceding it. That’s just how much the chaotic anomaly that was 2020 (and a good chunk of 2021) threw a wrench into the traditional way we measure market trends.

It’s no surprise that off-premise channels performed better over that period than on-premise ones, as bars and restaurants continue to emerge from one of the darkest periods in their existence. And the good news for craft is that premiumization continues to accelerate, according to data presented in a session with Danny Brager of Brager Beverage Alcohol Consulting and James Restivo of NielsenIQ. Nielsen’s figures show that the ultra price tier—a space that, along with the super-premium tier, many craft brands inhabit—experienced dollar growth of 88% in 2021 versus 2019. What’s more, the super- and ultra-premium tiers enjoyed a combined share point gain of 5.8 during that period.

Brager moderated a later session focusing on the onpremise, where the story was a bit more complicated. Spirits did continue to gain share-of-alcohol versus beer and wine, according to Matthew Crompton, client solutions director of on-premise researcher CGA, to the tune of a 1.7 dollar share point increase during the 2019-2021 period. All of that was at the expense of wine, which saw a share point drop of the same amount, while beer share was flat. But all three main sectors of the beverage alcohol experienced double-digit revenue declines during that period.

Consumers also shifted when they drank at bars and restaurants, gravitating toward the weekend. They were drinking a lot less on weeknights, largely because of the large percentage of people working from home and not going out to happy hours, a steep drop in business travel and venues often limiting their opening hours to the Thursday-to-Sunday

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period during the pandemic.

But that tide could be turning this year. Nearly half of the consumers whom CGA surveyed indicated that they plan to visit bars and restaurants more in 2022 than they did in 2021 (if safe from variant surges, of course). Specifically, 28% said they planned to go to on-premise establishments “slightly more” often than they did last year, while 19% expressed a desire to go out “much more” often than they did in 2021. The largest number—43%—indicated that they’ll be going to bars and restaurants equally as often as they did in 2021. Only 6% said they’d go out “slightly less” often and 4% said “much less often.”

One more tidbit that I found absolutely fascinating: The notion of a spirits drinker, a wine drinker or a beer drinker as some sort of monolith is a total myth. Brager presented a Wine Market Council study that showed that only 22% of consumers who favor beer as their core alcohol beverage are beer-only drinkers. That number drops to 17% for wine aficionados. And for spirits, it’s only 14%. For drinkers of other (cider, FMBs, hard seltzers, hard kombuchas, etc.) that number is only 11%. So, there’s real opportunity to draw more legal-drinking-age adults into spirits—and, ultimate, craft spirits—from those other categories.

Of course, one could argue, that spirits-favoring consumers are more gettable by wine and beer because 86% of spirits lovers are cross-drinkers. But a lot of that could relate to the fact that beer and wine are available in more retail channels and drinking and dining venues than spirits, thanks to different licensing levels.

And also, I like to think—in my very unscientific opinion— that spirits fans are just much more open-minded people.

Try to prove me wrong! ■

Jeff Cioletti Editor in Chief

C R AF T S PI R I T S MAG .CO M

CORSAIR DISTILLERY

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Thank You, Sponsors!

3x3

Amoretti

Bardstown Bourbon Co.

Amoretti specializes in super concentrated natural infusions for artisan craft beverages. Amoretti sources the freshest and tastiest fruits, herbs, spices, chocolates, vanillas and peppers from around the world, paying attention to quality and consistency to ensure an impeccable, creative, consistent brew in every barrel. amoretti.com

Bardstown Bourbon Co. operates one of the most sophisticated distilleries in the country. Our Collaborative Distilling Program brings together some of the most experienced distillers in the industry, allowing our customers to create alongside us and drives education, innovation and experimentation. bardstownbourbon.com

Export-Import Bank of the United States A U.S. federal government agency with the mission of supporting U.S.-based jobs by facilitating U.S. exports. We help companies of all sizes compete for global sales by offering financing solutions including export credit insurance and more. exim.gov

Fermentis

FIVE x 5 Solutions

Glencairn Crystal

FIVE x 5 Solutions believes that software should scale with you. We’re more than a service provider: we’re a committed partner in your distillery’s success, and take pride in providing the most complete solution for your growing operation. We take your business as seriously as you do.

Fx5solutions.com

Glencairn Crystal is a leading manufacturer of bespoke crystal and glass. For over three decades, this family business, based in Scotland, has gained an international reputation for fine crystal and glassware. Best known for the creation of the Glencairn Glass, the official glass for whisky. glencairn.co.uk

Malkin Law

MGP

At MGP, every step of creating a premium distilled bourbon, whiskey, rye, gin and vodka is guided by a passion bordering on obsession. We tirelessly collaborate with our partners, regardless of size, to develop and consistently produce the exact flavor profile that’s right for their brand. And for their discerning consumers. mgpingredients.com/distilled-spirits

Moonshine University

Park Street

Malkin Law focuses on serving the needs of the alcohol beverage industry.

We regularly assist with licensing, review of industry specific agreements, trade practices and navigating state laws. Malkin Law is also honored to be Legal Counsel for ACSA. malkinlawfirm.com

Supercap

Tapì

Thousand Oaks Barrel Co.

Top Shelf Logistics

We help liquor brands create better futures. 3x3 is a data-driven shopper engagement partner for brands and retailers in the beer, wine and spirits industry. We blend marketing technology with expert insight to help brands and retailers connect with shoppers who will love their products.

3x3.us

Supercap has been producing closures for spirits since 1999. We are present in the United States with a great sales network with partners and agents, thus being able to help and advise you in the choice of the best stopper for your spirits. supercap.it

Fermentis is an agile and expanding company, dedicated to fermented beverages. It is a unit of Lesaffre Group, global key player in yeast for over 160 years. Our roots are strong while having an audacious spirit. As things happen during the fermentation … our goal is to discover them in terms of taste, flavor and pleasure. fermentis.com/en/

Tapì is an international group specializing in the design and production of miniature packaging design masterpieces. Our closures are based on cutting-edge functionality and technology, with an exclusive style that elegantly showcases each product. tapigroup.com

The nation’s premier educational distillery, bringing together specialists from every facet of the industry to provide education, training and professional services to start-ups and existing companies. Moonshine University is housed next door to sister company Flavorman, an international custom beverage development company. moonshineuniversity.com

Thousand Oak Barrel Co. manufactures barrels to age and serve your spirits. All products offer a variety of options for customizing and branding with your personalized design.

1000oaksbarrel.com

Berlin Packaging

Berlin Packaging, the only Hybrid Packaging Supplier® of plastic, glass and metal containers & closures, supplies billions of items annually, along with package design, financing, consulting, warehousing and logistics services. We bring together the best of manufacturing, distribution & income-adding service providers. berlinpackaging.com

Park Street delivers productivityenhancing and cost-saving back-office solutions, advisory services, working capital, compliance management, export solution, integrated accounting and human resources management solutions to more than 14,000 alcoholic beverage brands from the U.S. and around the world. parkstreet.com

Top Shelf Logistics is a best-in-class freight provider focused solely on the spirits industry, providing clients industry proven sustainable domestic transportation capacity, service and value. topshelflogistics.com

The American Craft Spirits Association would like to thank all of our annual sponsors and our key supporters of education. We are grateful for all of your support throughout the year. Cheers!

Blue & Co., LLC

Briess Malt & Ingredients Co.

BSG Distilling

As the craft distilling industry grows, BSG Distilling has been focused on supplying distillers with the best ingredients from around the world. Today, the craft distilling market trusts BSG Distilling to deliver the finest ingredients at competitive prices, without sacrificing customer service. bsgdistilling.com

CIE

Since 1876, we’ve been supplying the highest quality malts in the industry.

We’ve distinguished ourselves by developing the most extensive line of specialty malts made by any malting company in the world. We provide everything from malts to pure malt extracts, brewers flakes and filtering aids. briess.com

Independent Stave Co.

ISTS

Lafitte Cork and Capsule

Lallemand Biofuels & Distilled Spirits

Blue & Co., LLC is an independent accounting and advisory firm with more than 50 years in operation. Our public accounting expertise includes the practice areas of assurance, tax compliance and consulting, healthcare consulting, benefit plan services, valuation and litigation support, and business services. blueandco.com

We’ve been in this industry for over 100 years, during which time we’ve learned a thing or two about what makes a great barrel to age great spirits. We have hundreds of barrels currently in experimentation. Partnering with distillers, we think outside the box to develop new products that push your vision forward. iscbarrels.com

Since 2001, ISTS has offered costeffective, solid expertise in safety training, consulting and management services. We make workplaces safer, employees ready and compliance uncomplicated. ISTS has extensive experience working with the spirits industry, so our programs are totally customized to address your site. istsky.com

Lafitte Cork and Capsule is setting new standards for premium, high performance bar top closures, geared specifically toward luxury spirits, high end oil and vinegar. Lafitte employs the technical expertise accumulated over 100 years in business to guarantee the perfect closure for your brand lafitte-usa.com

CIE is a state-of-the-art, 75 million wine gallon, beverage and industrial graded, commercial scale, alcohol facility located in Marion, Indiana. CIE supplies pure and denatured alcohols to customers in the spirit, beauty, personal care, medical, food-flavor and industrial markets. cie.us

The leader in supplying fermentation products and services to the distilled spirits industry, we specialize in the research, development, production, and marketing of yeast, yeast nutrients, enzymes, and bacteria; as well as a solid belief in education of the distilled spirits industry. lallemanddistilling.com

S PECIFIC

brewing distilling

Saverglass

Soderstrom Architects

Sovos ShipCompliant

Ultra Pure

Whalen Insurance

Wine & Spirits Wholesalers of America

Saverglass provides for premium and super-premium spirits, still & sparkling wines and craft beers. Recognized for its innovation, its glass-making expertise and the quality of its glass, products and designs, Saverglass is the partner of choice for brand creators, craft makers and the largest wine and spirits groups worldwide. saverglass.com

Signature Spirits, a division of Ultra Pure, is the leading independent supplier of bulk spirits in the U.S. and has the largest selection of alcohols stocked across its nine warehouses.

We supply approximately 1,000 distilleries and brand owners with virtually every type of alcohol. ultrapure-usa.com

Soderstrom Architects’ Ferar Wine & Spirits Studio has been involved in the design and master planning of more than 70 wineries and distilleries. Our studio was founded nearly 30 years ago with a passion for design that conveys the special sense of place inherent in the site, be it a vineyard or a city block. sdra.com

Whalen Insurance is a second-generation insurance agency owned and operated by Peter Whalen. He started a program for craft breweries in the mid 1980s and expanded to craft distilleries almost 10 years ago. It provides all property and liability coverages needed to safely operate a distillery. whaleninsurance.com

Sovos ShipCompliant has been the leader in automated alcohol beverage compliance tools for more than 15 years, providing a full suite of cloudbased solutions to distilleries, wineries, breweries, cideries, importers, distributors and retailers to ensure they meet all regulations for direct-toconsumer and three-tier distribution. sovos.com/shipcompliant

The Wine & Spirits Wholesalers of America (WSWA) is the national trade association representing the wholesale tier of the wine and spirits industry. It is dedicated to advancing the interests and independence of wholesale distributors and brokers of wine and spirits. wswa.org

Specific Mechanical Systems

Since 1984, Specific Mechanical Systems has handcrafted brewing and distilling systems for the craft beer and spirits industries, in addition to supplying various industries with complex processing equipment. Originally a two-person company, the company now employs a team of approximately 100 people. specificmechanical.com

WV Great Barrel Co.

The best-performing whiskey barrel on the market, precision built in the heart of Appalachia. Infrared toast and controlled char standard on every barrel. wvgbc.com/

Contributors

Lew Bryson has been writing about beer and spirits full-time since 1995. He was the managing editor of Whisky Advocate from 1996 through 2015, where he also wrote the American Spirits column, and reviewed whiskeys. He is currently a Senior Drinks Writer for the Daily Beast, and also writes for WhiskeyWash.com, American Whiskey and Bourbon+. He is the author of “Tasting Whiskey” (Storey Publishing, 2014), a broad survey of the whiskeys of the world, their history and manufacture. He has also written four regional brewery guidebooks.

Erin Lee is a Canadian transplant to Brooklyn, New York, and a certified tea sommelier who is transitioning into the distilling industry from a career in fashion. She is part of the STEPUP Foundation’s inaugural class of interns and is currently placed at Westward Whiskey in Portland, Oregon.

Tom Bentley is a novelist, essayist and business and travel writer. He’s published hundreds of freelance pieces—ranging from first-person essays to travel pieces to more journalistic subjects—in newspapers, magazines, and online. (Venues include Vox, Wine Enthusiast Magazine, The American Scholar, WIRED, Writer’s Digest, Popular Mechanics, The Los Angeles Times, The San Francisco Chronicle and many others.) He would like you to pour him a Manhattan right at five.

See his work at tombentley.com.

John Holl is a journalist covering the beer industry. He’s the author of several books including “Drink Beer, Think Beer: Getting to the Bottom of Every Pint” and “The American Craft Beer Cookbook.” He is the co-host of the podcast Steal This Beer, and his work has appeared in The New York Times, The Washington Post, Wine Enthusiast and more. John has lectured on the culture and history of beer and judged beer competitions around the world.

Corey Day is a litigator with Stoel Rives LLP, where he focuses on business disputes and alcohol beverage matters. Corey has counseled bar, brewery, distillery and winery clients on regulatory compliance, licensing, contracts and employment law matters.

Corey received his undergraduate and law degrees from the University of California, Davis, and was recently recognized by the Davis Chamber of Commerce as its 2021 ​​ Director of the Year.

Craig Pacheco is a corporate attorney with Stoel Rives LLP. Craig has more than 10 years of alcohol beverage industry experience on both the business and legal sides of the industry—experience that guides his counsel to alcohol beverage and hospitality industry clients on corporate transactions, distribution agreements and other commercial contracts, licensing, regulatory approvals, and compliance matters. Craig received his J.D. from New York University School of Law and undergraduate degree from Washington University.

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C R AF T S PI R I T S MAG .CO M

Only Non-GN, AMBA approved barley variety in the U.S., assuring low levels of Ethyl Carbamate Predominant barley used to make single malt Scotch Sweet & bready, with notes of honey Available in whole kernel and flour

Learn more about this new product at BrewingWithBriess.com/Odyssey ©2021 Briess Industries, Inc.

New Spirits

Talnua Distillery of Arvada, Colorado, continues its tradition of releasing a unique version of Olde Saint’s Keep on St. Patrick’s Day to celebrate its anniversary and the holiday. The 2022 release is a 100-proof American single pot still whiskey, triple distilled from a mash of 50% unmalted barley and 50% malted barley. The whiskey was first aged in former bourbon and port casks, then the two were married and finished for 10 months in rare Pineau des Charantes Casks from Southwest France.

Barrell Craft Spirits of Louisville, Kentucky, announced the launch of BCS Gray Label Seagrass, which features 100% Canadian rye whisky aged for 16 years, meticulously sourced and finished in Martinique Rhum, Madeira, and Apricot Brandy Barrels, and bottled at 130.82 proof.

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Bellemara Distillery of Hillsborough, New Jersey, announced the release of its Single Malt Gin. The distillery, which opened in late 2021, reports the gin is double-distilled from malted barley and then vapor infused in a third distillation with juniper berries and other botanicals for a beautifully balanced sip. While the gin is juniper-forward, its also nicely balanced by hints of orange and spices.

Driftless Glen Distillery of Baraboo, Wisconsin, announced the release of Tawny Port-Finished Bourbon. For the 100-proof bourbon, the distillery finished its four-plus-year bourbon whiskey for more than six months in a Tawny Port cask. According to the distillery, the bourbon offers complex, nuanced flavors of dried fruits and walnuts.

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YOUR SHOT AT GLORY, GLAMOUR AND GOLD

2022 Judging of Craft Spirits ACSA’s 9th Annual Judging of Craft Spirits is open for entries. Enter your products into the ONLY craft judging competition assembled, organized and overseen by you, the distilling community.

ACSA’s blind-tasting competition recognizes the best craft spirits in the categories of vodka/ grain, gin, brandy, rum, ready-to-drink, whiskey, and specialty spirits.

Due to COVID-19 we will not be accepting international entries in this year’s competition.

Registration Deadline: March 25, 2022 Receiving Deadline: March 31, 2022

For more information on how to enter, visit americancraftspirits.org/programs/judging/.

Questions? Contact us at judging@americancraftspirits.org.

New Spirits

Seattle-based Copperworks Distilling Co. announced the release of its 100-proof American Single Malt Whiskey 041, crafted from nine casks of whiskey. Other Copperworks releases have been created by combining different cask types, barley varietals and maturation times, but Release 041 was made utilizing all three of these options along with the distillery’s broadest array of whiskeys yet.

Dogfish Head Distilling Co. of Milton, Delaware, announced the launch of its latest, limited-edition whiskey, Alternate Takes Volume 3: Whiskey Finished in Apple Brandy & Apple Cider Barrels. The 90-proof spirit is distilled from 100% pale malt and finished for 36-plus months in freshly-emptied Dogfish Head American oak apple brandy barrels and French oak apple cider barrels from Angry Orchard.

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Green River Distilling Co. of Owensboro, Kentucky, recently announced the launch of its flagship Green River Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey. Aged more than five years, this 90-proof spirit is the first Green River bourbon to hit shelves in more than a century and comes on the heels of the distillery’s historic revival in September 2020.

Wiggly Bridge Distillery can thank a forgotten barrel for its latest special release. Recently, York, Maine-based Wiggly Bridge Distillery released Project #1 of its Daves’ Special Projects Series. The spirit came from a lost barrel that the distillery says became one of the most delicious, smooth, and unbelievable barrels that has come out of Wiggly Bridge Distillery.

C R AF T S PI R I T S MAG .CO M

ARE YOU READY TO EXPERIENCE CRAFT IN THE QUARTER? ACSA’s 9th Annual Distillers’ Convention and Vendor Trade Show New Orleans Ernest N. Morial Convention Center

Register Now https://americancraftspirits.org/programs/convention/

THIS IS THE CONVENTION YOU WON’T WANT TO MISS!

New Spirits

Boardroom Spirits of Lansdale, Pennsylvania, introduces a new flavor to the Ship’s Cat collection. The 70-proof Ship’s Cat Spiced Rum is a gluten-free spirit with inviting vanilla notes that can be enjoyed on its own or mixed in cocktails year-round.

Like so many independent businesses faced with global supply chain issues, Durham Distillery of Durham, North Carolina, has announced a limited-edition offering: CONNIPTION Gin Pandemic Pivot, the distillery’s award-winning American Dry and Navy Strength gin in a temporary cylindrical new bottle. The temporary bottle is a departure from the brand’s signature rectangular one but with the same delicious liquid inside.

The clear bottle features the brand’s CONNIPTION logo along with a sticker noting “same delicious gin but round.”

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In a collaboration with Marianne Eaves, Columbus, Ohio-based Watershed Distillery is set to release a new premium cask strength bourbon. Watershed is one of eight craft distilleries to be included in Eaves Blind—a premium, collectible bourbon series curated by Eaves, recognized as the first female master distiller in Kentucky.

The offering from Watershed is 130.3 proof.

Eastside Distilling of Portland, Oregon, recently announced the release of its first ever Maraschino Cherry Whiskey, crafted with Eastside’s rare whiskey blend and Italy’s premier Luxardo Maraschino Liqueur. This 60-proof spirit will be the second flavored whiskey in Eastside’s lineup, following the release of Marionberry Whiskey in fall 2021.

C R AF T S PI R I T S MAG .CO M

New Spirits

Lost Lantern, an independent bottler of American whiskey announced its spring 2022 collection, featuring four limited edition single casks from four celebrated distilleries: Smooth Ambler Spirits of Maxwelton, West Virginia; Westward Whiskey of Portland, Oregon; Frey Ranch Distillery of Fallon, Nevada; and Spirit Works Distillery of Sebastopol, California. All offerings are bottled at cask strength, are nonchill-filtered and have natural color.

Kástra Elión Vodka, a family-owned spirit from Greece that is three generations in the making, is now available in the U.S. The 80-proof Kástra Elión is distilled from the finest hand-picked olives found in the Nafpaktos region of Greece, creating a flavor profile with subtle notes of ripe olives refined with peppery undertones and a soft, buttery finish.

C R AF TSPIR ITSMAG.COM

New York Distilling Co., of Brooklyn, New York, has announced the seasonal release of its pink-hued, rose petal variation of its multi-award-winning Dorothy Parker Rose Petal Flavored Gin. The delicious, playful expression achieves its color naturally through an infusion of fragrant red and pink rose petals as well as crushed elderberries, one of the essential botanicals in the gin.

The special release is 88 proof..

Venus Spirits of Santa Cruz, California, is expanding the line of El Ladrón agave spirits with a new release made entirely from agave grown in Yolo County California, and fermented and distilled in Santa Cruz. The 84-proof spirit, aptly named Yolo, will be among the first agave spirits that has been distilled in California using only California-grown agave. The distillery says it will also be the first California agave spirit released using traditional pit roasting techniques.

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Imbiber’s Bookshelf

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Booze & Vinyl Vol. 2: 70 More Albums + 140 New Recipes Authors: André Darlington and Tenaya Darlington Publisher: Running Press Adult Release Date: April 19 A follow-up to the bestselling listening party guide, Booze & Vinyl, this is an all-new collection of groundbreaking music paired with moodsetting cocktails. Get set to party with 70 great records—organized by theme, from rockin’ to beats, mellow to jazzy and bluesy—spanning the 1950s to today. Each entry features liner notes on the album and two accompanying boozy beverage recipes that complement the music.

Barkeep: Second Edition Author: Danilo Bozovic Publisher: Hollow Point Publishing LLC Release Date: Nov. 24, 2021 “Barkeep” is a modern day mixology cocktail book with a focus on hospitality, service, bartending, making and serving drinks, wine, food, coffee and cigars. It provides a huge amount of practical and very necessary information in a logical and organic way so that the novice bartender as well as the seasoned veteran can easily find what they are looking for.

Paddy Drinks: The World of Modern Irish Whiskey Cocktails Authors: Jillian Vose, Sean Muldoon and Jack McGarry Publisher: Harvest Release Date: Feb. 22 The folks behind the world-renowned, award-winning Irish pub, Dead Rabbit in New York City, know a thing or two about whiskey, and about making great whiskey cocktails. To start, you need to understand the flavors of whiskey, which means going to the very beginning—at the distillery. With an illustrated guide of the stages of production and the differences between the various styles of whiskey, plus flavor wheels and tasting notes, you’ll be well equipped to create your own drinks utilizing various Irish whiskey brands and styles before getting into the Dead Rabbit’s ever-creative, innovative cocktail recipes.

Rum Rebels: A Celebration of Women Revolutionizing the Spirits Industry, with Cocktail Recipes Authors: Martyna Halas and René van Hoven Publisher: Yellow Pear Press Release Date: March 15 A pirate staple, rum has been the drink of rebels since the Old World.

Now, there’s a new generation of rebels—the business women curating the taste of today’s best rum companies. Part rum cocktail book, part ode to feminism, “Rum Rebels” is a story of female empowerment in a traditionally male-dominated industry. Looking at more than a dozen rum distilleries, each chapter of Rum Rebels profiles women in leadership, their rum and the perfect cocktail pairing.

C R AF T S PI R I T S MAG .CO M

Industry Update

HEAVEN HILL ACQUIRES SAMSON & SURREY This February, Heaven Hill, America’s largest independent, family-owned and operated distilled spirits supplier, acquired Samson & Surrey, including its portfolio of brands and facilities.

The acquisition of Samson & Surrey further extends Heaven Hill’s portfolio with six highgrowth, super-premium brands in several of the industry’s fastest growing categories.

“Throughout our 86-year history, our focus has been building a business with a portfolio of great brands sold through a great team,” said Max L. Shapira, president, Heaven Hill Brands. “The Samson & Surrey portfolio strategically enhances our portfolio with emerging brands in strong growth categories. Together with their team, Heaven Hill is poised to leverage the tremendous potential of these exciting brands.”

Under the leadership of Robert Furniss-Roe and Juan Rovira, Samson & Surrey has built a remarkable portfolio of highly differentiated premium brands growing at 60% per annum, tracking $40 million in sales and present in 30-plus markets worldwide. Included in the acquisition are Tequila Ocho, Widow Jane American Whiskey, Few Spirits, Brenne French Whisky, Bluecoat Gin and Mezcal Vago. The company will continue to operate as an independent division of Heaven Hill led by Furniss-

Max Thibodeaux and Nathan Mahinski

Roe and Rovira.

“Over the last five years we have enjoyed unprecedented success thanks to the talents of our team, the truly remarkable awardwinning liquids we make, and the engaging consumer stories we tell,” said Furniss-Roe. “The combined talent, scale and resources of Heaven Hill now present a unique opportunity to provide a long-term home for Samson & Surrey and to further accelerate our growth.”

“We believe strongly in the potential of

our brands which are perfectly positioned to capitalize on the key spirits market trends,” added Rovira. “We could not be more delighted to join Heaven Hill and work together to continue building a strong portfolio in the premium and super-premium segments.”.

Perella Weinberg Partners LP acted as exclusive financial advisor to Heaven Hill with respect to the transaction. RBC Capital Markets, LLC acted as exclusive financial advisor to Samson & Surrey.

DRIFTLESS GLEN FILLS 7,000TH BARREL Driftless Glen Distillery of Baraboo, Wisconsin, announced that it filled its 7,000th barrel on Feb. 18.

Driftless Glen, which started filling barrels in 2014, shares that its barrels are charred, new American oak, and its whiskey is never sourced. In addition to the Wheated Bourbon that’s in barrel No. 7,000, the thousands of other barrels include straight bourbon, rye, 51 rye and more.

“It’s especially exciting for me because this week was my seven-year work anniversary here at Driftless Glen,” said distiller Nathan Mahinski. “This barrel was filled with our Wheated Bourbon, and that product is something we began distilling years ago. We have some older barrels of it that will be turning five this spring and we are looking forward to its release. I can’t wait to see what the future holds for this product and all others of ours.”

Industry Update

GARRISON BROTHERS ANNOUNCES RETURN OF ICE CREAM AND BOURBON BRAWL For the second year in a row, Hye, Texasbased Garrison Brothers Distillery has teamed up with McConnell’s Fine Ice Creams of Santa Barbara, California, to create the ultimate whiskey ice cream flavor: Garrison Bros. Whiskey & Pecan Pralines.

Garrison Bros. Whiskey Pecan & Praline features smooth, sweet, smoky and spicy Garrison Brothers Small Batch bourbon, married to Central Coast milk and cream, and topped off by delicious, buttery, salt-roasted ‘n caramel-coated pecans.

Garrison Brothers also recently announced its annual cocktail competition: The 2022 Bourbon Brawl. The search for Bourbon Brawl Bartender of the Year begins with open online submissions that started on March 1. Bourbon Brawl, in its fourth year, will take submissions from all over the country with a focus on five key markets; Orange County, Chicago, New York City, Tampa and Houston. The competition includes three phases: Online Submissions, Semi-Finals, Finals.

“Being able to bring the country’s best bartenders together to compete in our annual

Bourbon Brawl is so much fun,” said Garrison Brothers founder Dan Garrison. “I can’t wait to review all the cocktail recipe submissions and then meet the best of the best in Austin for the finals. This Garrison Brothers competition is about supporting our hospitality community while making new friends.”

Each year, the competition attracts some of the best bartenders and cocktail enthusiasts in the country.

This year’s winner will receive $10,000.00, a Single Barrel of Garrison Brothers Bourbon (15-gallon barrel, for personal consumption only), and a coveted judging position in the 2023 Bourbon Brawl Bartending Competition. Prizing is provided by ShakeStir.com, the world’s largest online community for spirited professionals.

The winning cocktail during the last round at the finals will also be made into a cocktail kit for fans and bourbon lovers to order on Cocktail Courier the week following the conclusion of the competition.

To learn more, visit texasmonthly.com/ event/bourbon-brawl-2022.

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C R AF T S PI R I T S MAG .CO M

Industry Update

KENTUCKY COOPERAGE TO INVEST $4.1 MILLION, CREATE 20 JOBS Kentucky Gov. Andy Beshear recently announced that barrel producer Kentucky Cooperage LP Ltd., a subsidiary of Independent Stave Co. (ISC), will expand its existing used barrel operation in Marion County with a more-than-$4.1 million investment that will create up to 20 full-time jobs.

“Independent Stave Co. is an important part of the bourbon industry in Kentucky, and I am glad to see the company expand its footprint at Kentucky Cooperage in Marion County,” Gov. Beshear said. “ISC provides quality jobs in four Kentucky communities, and the company’s continued growth is another positive sign for the long-term success of bourbon in the commonwealth.”

The expansion will more than double the size of the current 28,000-square-foot used barrel operation at 715 W. Main St. with a 41,000-square-foot addition. The project will provide increased warehouse and processing capacity to grow the number of used barrels serviced by the company. Leaders at the company anticipate work on the expansion to begin this spring and be completed by

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February 2023.

ISC maintains five locations in the state, with operations in Benton, Lebanon, Louisville and Morehead, employing 685 people statewide.

“In 2017, we entered the used barrel industry by partnering with Tim Ratliff and Kentucky Bourbon Barrel in Louisville, Kentucky,” said Brad Boswell, CEO of ISC. “Together, we grew the KBB used barrel operations by opening a facility in Lebanon. Today, we are proud to begin an expansion on that facility, which will give our customers even more options for used barrels. We appreciate the state of Kentucky’s continued support of the growing spirits industry.”

ISC, a family-owned cooperage company headquartered in Missouri, was founded in 1912, initially serving as a domestic supplier of staves, and today operates as a cooperage company crafting a wide range of barrels and oak products. ISC provides for distilleries, wineries and breweries in more than 40 countries. In addition to its U.S. facilities in Missouri, Kentucky, Indiana and Ohio, the company has international cooperage facilities around the globe. ISC owns seven stave mills, including one in northeastern France, and six American oak mills.

The company’s growth is in support of Kentucky’s thriving spirits industry, which includes more than 65 facilities employing over 5,000 people across the state.

State Sen. Jimmy Higdon said the project benefits the state, as well as the local region.

“It is certainly good news to hear of the Kentucky Cooperage expansion in Lebanon/ Marion County,” Sen. Higdon said. “The new jobs and the investment in our industrial base will benefit our community, the region and the state. I would like to thank the Kentucky Cooperage family for being such outstanding corporate citizens.”

Marion County Judge/Executive David Daugherty thanked the company for its continued commitment to the community.

“It is great to see Kentucky Cooperage continue to grow in Marion County,” Judge Daugherty said. “We are so appreciative of every dollar they have invested and every new job they have created in our county since they first opened their doors in 1960. Kentucky Cooperage remains a worldwide leader in the coopering industry, and we are proud to have them in Marion County.”

Lebanon Mayor Gary Crenshaw said the project helps drive the local bourbon industry forward.

“The City of Lebanon is proud to support Kentucky Cooperage’s expansion. They are the premier barrel manufacturer in Kentucky,” Mayor Crenshaw said. “Each job that will be created as a result of this project will enhance our local economy and add to the luster of the bourbon industry in Marion County.”

Kentucky Cooperage’s investment and planned job creation furthers recent economic momentum in the commonwealth, as the state builds back stronger from the effects of the pandemic.

Gov. Beshear recently announced that on Jan. 28, S&P Global Ratings revised Kentucky’s financial outlook to positive from stable and affirmed its “A-” credit rating. S&P cited a reduced reliance on one-time items to balance the budget and a higher balance in the state’s rainy day fund as primary factors influencing the change.

In September, Gov. Beshear, Ford Motor Co. Executive Chair Bill Ford and CEO Jim Farley, along with Dong-Seob Jee, president of SK Innovation’s battery business, announced the single largest economic development project in the history of the commonwealth, celebrating a transformative $5.8 billion investment that will create 5,000 jobs and places Kentucky at the forefront of the automotive industry’s future.

To encourage investment and job growth in the community, the Kentucky Economic Development Finance Authority (KEDFA) in January approved the company for up to $150,000 in tax incentives through the Kentucky Enterprise Initiative Act (KEIA). KEIA allows approved companies to recoup Kentucky sales and use tax on construction costs, building fixtures, equipment used in research and development and electronic processing.

The company can receive resources from Kentucky’s workforce service providers. Those include no-cost recruitment and job placement services, reduced-cost customized training and job-training incentives.

C R AF T S PI R I T S MAG .CO M

Industry Update

WOODCRAFT BOURBON BLENDER ANNOUNCES FIRST FRANCHISEE: BARRELS & BILLETS WoodCraft Bourbon Blender of Newtown, Ohio, announced that it will begin franchising. Its first franchisee, Barrels & Billets, opened its doors Feb. 23 on Whiskey Row in Louisville, Kentucky.

This exciting new bourbon experience where guests can blend, create and bottle their very own bourbon will complement Louisville’s thriving bourbon tourism industry by offering guests a fun and unique way to participate in the blending of their own personal bourbon. Guests will blend with six award-winning WoodCraft bourbons which include a 200-year oak, European oak, American oak, cherry wood, maple wood and smoked oak. During the experience, guests will learn the art of bourbon blending before the blending process begins. Once the blending experience is complete, guests can have their recipe bottled onsite.

The franchisee is the Hillerich family—famous for their Louisville Slugger baseball bats. They have a link to whiskey as the original family immigrant, J. Frederick, was a barrel maker. They also have showcased years of expertise with consumer experiences such as their famous Louisville Slugger Museum & Factory.

“Some may be wondering why a sports and attraction company is getting into the bourbon business, but Barrels & Billets is actually a continuation of H&B’s long history of creating uniquely Louisville experiences for our fans and guests,” said John Hillerich, president & CEO of Hillerich & Bradsby Co. Co-founders Doug Hall and Joe Girgash created the WoodCraft finishing system to offer everyone the ability to have their own custom bourbon. Despite the chaos of Covid, they’ve worked through massive regulatory and production issues to make it possible for everyone to have their own bourbon again—one drink or one bottle at a time for a reasonable price. As Hall says, “Owning your own custom bourbon distillery is a ton of fun. That said, you need to have patience as the process for regulatory approval is painful.”

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Industry Update

MGP ANNOUNCES $12 MILLION BARREL WAREHOUSE EXPANSION MGP Ingredients, Inc., a leading provider of distilled and branded spirits and food ingredient solutions, announced it has begun a $12 million barrel warehouse expansion to meet growing consumer demand for its American whiskey.

Construction of the new barrel warehouse facility has recently begun in Williamstown, Kentucky, and marks the company’s second major investment in its distilled spirits operations in recent months. The warehouse expansion is located approximately 50 miles south of the company’s historic Ross & Squibb Distillery in Lawrenceburg, Indiana. The project is slated for completion by the end of 2022.

In late 2021, Luxco, operator of MGP’s branded-spirits portfolio, announced a $4 million expansion of its Lux Row Distillers facility in Bardstown, Kentucky. Slated for completion in late 2022, the expansion will allow Lux Row Distillers to operate 24 hours per day and increase its capacity by 75%.

“With the increased demand we have been experiencing for our new distillate, aged whiskey and ultra-premium brands, these investments are necessary,” said Dave Colo, president and CEO, MGP Ingredients, Inc. “When complete, the new barrel warehouse and Lux Row Distillery expansions position us well for continued, sustainable growth.”

EASTSIDE DISTILLING ANNOUNCES THE RESIGNATION OF PAUL BLOCK, CHAIRMAN AND CEO Portland, Oregon-based Eastside Distilling, Inc. recently announced that Paul Block, the CEO and chairman of the board, resigned from his positions with Eastside on Feb. 1. Eastside has named Geoffrey Gwin as the interim CEO, and Elizabeth LevyNavarro as the chairman of the board. In addition, Eastside announced the appointment of Amy Lancer to the position of chief commercial officer of spirits.

“We thank Paul for the passion and commitment he has brought to Eastside Distilling,” said Elizabeth Levy-Navarro, chairman of Eastside Distilling, Inc. “We are moving ahead, supporting the executive team during a transformational year for the company. The team made great strides in transforming the company over the past year and we expect more progress this year.”

Geoffrey Gwin continued, “I am excited to be working with seasoned spirits executives such as Amy Lancer and congratulate her on her new role.” Amy Lancer joined the company last year as vice president of financial planning and analysis and brings over two decades of experience, having worked for Heineken, Bacardi, Diageo-Guinness and Pernod Ricard USA.

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Industry Update

SUSTO MEZCAL APPOINTS SHILLING AS CEO, EXPANDS TEAM Susto Mezcal, a hand-crafted mezcal based jointly in Austin, Texas, and Oaxaca, Mexico, has filled two key leadership positions with the appointment of Mark Shilling as CEO, and Fabiola Lozano as Texas market manager. The significant hires will help the company build on its successes of the last two years, spurred by the tremendous growth in 2021 of more than 40%.

Susto Mezcal is poised to expand its brand presence throughout the U.S. Founding partners Liz Stewart, Titi Rodriguez, and Ingrid Taylor will continue their active roles both in Texas and Oaxaca. Shilling’s and Lozano’s employment with Susto Mezcal will commence immediately.

As CEO, Shilling will lead business strategy, financial management and operations for Susto Mezcal. He is responsible for expanding U.S. sales and overseeing production logistics in Oaxaca. Shilling brings extensive beverage alcohol industry experience to the company.

In his role as a partner in Big Thirst Consulting, he provided integrated business services for established and start-up distilleries to improve operations from production and marketing to sales and distribution. Previously he founded Revolution Spirits, an Austin area distillery in 2013.

Shilling is well known in the industry for his work supporting craft spirits producers. In 2016, Shilling was elected to the board of the American Craft Spirits Association, serving as

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president from 2017-2018. He currently leads the organization’s government affairs committee, focusing on the federal excise tax, tariffs, trade practices and other industry concerns.

He was recently recognized for his service to the industry with ACSA’s inaugural Gable Erenzo Spirit of Community award.

“Mark is the right leader for Susto Mezcal as we continue to vigorously grow our market share,” said Ingrid Taylor, managing partner of U.S. operations. “His extensive management and operations experience and track record of growing small spirits brands will help Susto strengthen distribution partnerships and position our company for strategic growth. We believe his strong leadership experience will help focus our efforts as we increase production in Oaxaca, expand our distribution to new markets, and optimize our e-commerce sales.”

“I am excited to join the Susto Mezcal team,” Shilling said. “Susto has achieved several important milestones over the past year. With such sustained demand over the last 18 months we are poised for continued expansion. We have a great business model and an outstanding team that uniquely positions us to capitalize in the growing mezcal market. My focus is to bring spirits industry best-practices to improve efficiencies and make it easier for consumers to try and buy our award-winning mezcal.”

To assist in managing this explosive growth,

Susto has hired Lozano as Texas market manager. She brings passion, energy, and spirits industry experience to her role in managing the brand throughout Texas.

Prior to joining Susto Mezcal, Lozano successfully managed over 60 accounts in the on-premise spirits market with Republic National Distributing Co., where she was recognized numerous times as a Top Seller.

A native of Matamoros, Tamaulipas, Mexico, Lozano is a graduate of the University of Texas at Rio Grande Valley and will work out of San Antonio.

According to market research firm Technavio, the mezcal market in the United States has reached $100 million in sales and is expected to grow to $315 million by 2023.

Recognized for its outstanding quality, Susto Mezcal is outpacing other mezcal brands in this growing market to be one of the top brands in volume sales carried by Republic National Distributing Company in Texas.

Compadres Importing LLC, which owns the Susto Mezcal brand, manages the entire chain of production in Mexico—from harvesting to distillation and bottling. The company also owns the coveted Norma Official Mexicana (NOM) certification for making mezcal, which distinguishes Susto Mezcal from many other mezcal brands that simply buy and bottle spirit made by others. Susto Mezcal is crafted in San Dionisio Ocotepec, Oaxaca by mezcalero, Crispín Pérez.

C R AF T S PI R I T S MAG .CO M

Industry Update

ENDLESS WEST SECURES $60 MILLION IN SERIES C FUNDING Spirits and technology startup Endless West announced it has raised $60 million in Series C funding led by Level One Fund and funds managed by UBS O’Connor, bringing its total investment to date to $95 million. Endless West’s latest round follows a string of large funding rounds in the rapidly-growing Food Technology space.

Founded in 2015 by scientists Alec Lee and Mardonn Chua, Endless West uses a revolutionary, technology-driven process to create molecular spirits. Its products have dramatically-improved sustainability and scalability to mitigate many of the industry’s supply chain challenges. Endless West is the first company to launch this technology in spirits, identifying key flavor and aroma molecules (or notes), then extracting them for use from more efficient sources in nature—including plants, fruits and yeasts. The brand’s products have already won 39 medals in wine and spirits competitions, including most recently a Gold Medal with 91 Points in the 2021 London Spirits Competition for Glyph Spice, a successor to Glyph Original which launched in 2018. Glyph Spice was awarded the 5th highest score in the whiskey category of all whiskeys submitted this year out of over 130 that qualified for an award.

Endless West’s most recent funding brings the company to $95 million in equity financing, and will be used primarily to launch its newest B2B platform, Blank Collective, domestically and internationally. Blank Collective offers creative, product development, and production services for partners looking to launch their own new brands or to improve margins, ingredient quality, and scalability of existing brands. Through Blank Collective, Endless West makes its molecular process available to external parties for the first time, so partners no longer have to make difficult trade-offs between the price, quality, and availability of the spirits available for their brands.

Blank Collective can help launch a new product in a matter of weeks, and can reformulate existing products in a matter of months to match or improve on the quality at a greatly reduced price of the original ingredient spirits.

“Since we founded the company we’ve been pushing the boundaries of what people thought was possible in the wine and spirits industry,” said Alec Lee, co-founder & CEO of Endless West. “I’m thrilled to announce this next round of funding that will help us take our incredible technology to the world and make it available for others looking to create their own great products.”

“This funding round accelerates Endless West’s mission to become the alcohol industry’s leading supply hub, and further supports the company’s molecular production process in its role as an inevitable technology that is already yielding impressive cost, speed, and environmental benefits for a $1.5 trillion global market.” said James Stewart, partner at Level One Fund.

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Basic Distillery Safety Equipment Selection Oak Extraction and Aging Material Selection Flavor Chemistry and Biochemistry Pros and Cons of Tasting Rooms Working With Distributors Building A Sales Team General Business Management And Much More!

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Member Rate: $399; Non-Member Rate: $799 Take advantage of these pre-convention offerings to maximize your time and money in New Orleans!

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lew's bottom shelf

WHISKEY & BRISKET

BY LEW BRYSON

I’m a smoker. By which I mean … I am part of the barbecue hobby. I smoke food, in a smoker.

I try smoking a lot of different things. I like experimenting. I’ve smoked pork butts and ribs, of course, but I’ve also done pork crown roasts, sausages, chuck roast burnt ends, corned beef (for a kind of hybrid pastrami), salmon, shrimp, smelt, whole chickens and turkey breasts. I’ve also smoked cheese, nuts, eggs, onions, tomatoes, sweet potatoes and a variety of peppers, plain and stuffed. I’ve smoked a lot of stuff, over a variety of woods.

But one thing I haven’t smoked … is brisket.

And it’s weird, but to a lot of folks, that seems to mean I’m just not a bad-ass barbecuer.

There’s very much a vibe of, ‘if you haven’t done brisket, son, you ain’t a man.’ I’ve even heard a couple women say it, which is messed up. To these die-hards, not having smoked an 18-pound packer cut of brisket means you’re not really doing barbecue.

So even though I smoke four butts at a time, can make ribs either lovingly chewy or fall-off-the-bone, and can smoke an egg that will make you weep … I’m not really a barbecue guy because I haven’t done this massive primal cut, that’s expensive and a pain to source and smoke, and that yields so much meat I’d wind up freezing half of it anyway? Step away from my wood pile, buddy, go back to Texas.

Does this sound familiar at all? Because from the outside, it sounds like the unspoken pressure on a distiller to make whiskey. If you’ve never thought about that … maybe it’s gaslighting.

I’m kidding about the gaslighting, but there do seem to be some hierarchy assumptions made in distilling. If you’re new to the game, or if you’re looking at your program with an eye toward refocusing, stop and think about the characterizations that are pushing you toward whiskey. Leave the economics out of it; we’re talking about image here.

Think about what you’ll hear, from the

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geeks and from other distillers. No one takes vodka seriously, and it doesn’t matter if you’re distilling it from grain, or honey, or spuds; everyone—everyone—assumes you’re redistilling bulk neutral spirit to get some quick cash.

Gin? Unless you’re Ryan Reynolds, no one’s buying it. It’s just flavored vodka that has to include juniper.

What else? Agave spirit? Culturally suspect and you daren’t call it by its name. Brandy?

Either snobbish or an aura of cheap booze.

Rum? No one understands why you want to make rum if you’re not in the islands. Even the king of spirits, aquavit, doesn’t get you as much respect as whiskey.

King Aquavit? I hope that one tips you that those last two paragraphs were largely tongue-in-cheek. I like all of those spirits, and making them is a tribute to the craft.

But there is something to my thesis, the idea that whiskey is the brisket of distilling. Whiskeymaking is somehow seen as more respectful, more skillful, more worthy than other spirits.

You’re taking grain and converting that to the water of life—that’s what whisky means! To a 500-year-old monk, maybe—and then making magic with wood while taking a big ass-whipping on time and taxes and losses. Wow. That’s some hard work! Whiskey must be good!

Look, I love whiskey, and that makes about as much sense to me as the whole brisket bullshit. There is no reason why you have to make whiskey to be taken seriously. Talk to a serious gin maker, and you’ll get so far into the herbal, alchemical weeds you might not come out for days. Make brandy and you’ve got vintages and varietals plus every bit as much woody magic as whiskey. Rum can go in so many different directions you’ll have to have classes to get your drinkers up to speed (plus, unlike white whiskey, people actually like drinking unaged rum).

And you vodka makers! If you’re going to the effort to make vodka from your chosen,

There is no reason why you have to make whiskey to be taken seriously. special feedstock—heirloom grain, a certain type of potato, raw honey—and I can taste or feel that in the spirit? If you’re infusing your vodka with the same care as a gin maker, sourcing herbs and fruits and spices, and it’s bright and sharp and amazing? You’re a damned hero-genius, no matter what Fred Minnick says. Sure, a lot of people are gonna dump it in a Bloody Mary, but they’re gonna be damned good Bloodies!

If your passion is gin, if your bliss is rum, if your song to sing is one of alembics and grapes, if you want to put in the crazy work to make vodka that’s never going to compete with Tito’s on price, you’re doing what you ought to be doing. Don’t let anyone tell you that you’re less than a whiskey maker. Cycles are going to turn, and your passion will be others’ passion.

Make the best spirit you can, no matter what it is. I’m smoking a side of salmon and racks of ribs over alder wood this weekend.

We’re both going to be happy. ■

Lew Bryson has been writing about beer and spirits full-time since 1995. He is the author of “Tasting Whiskey” and “Whiskey Master Class.”

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WHAT’s Stirring

DRINKS TO SAVOR FROM ACSA MEMBERS

The Heartbreaker In this enticing cocktail from Spotted Bear Spirits of Whitefish, Montana, bright raspberry seduces the sweet citrus and cardamom notes of the distillery’s signature gin, distilled using local glacial runoff. The Heartbreaker is reminiscent of the wild and fleeting summers in Montana, but perfect for admiring all year long.

Ingredients 2 ounces Spotted Bear Spirits Gin 6 muddled raspberries 1 ounce lemon juice 3/4 ounce simple syrup 1 egg white Directions Muddle Spotted Bear Spirits Gin and fresh raspberries in shaker tin until berries are macerated. Combine additional ingredients in the tin and dry shake without ice for 30 seconds.

Add ice and shake for an additional 15 seconds. Double strain into coupe or martini glass and garnish with a fresh raspberry.

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French Revolution This cocktail from Dad’s Hat Pennsylvania Rye Whiskey in Bristol, Pennsylvania, features the brand’s classic rye along with Chambord and homemade rosemary simple syrup.

Cocktail Ingredients 2 1/2 ounces Dad’s Hat Pennsylvania Rye Whiskey 3/4 ounce Chambord 3/4 ounce rosemary simple syrup Sprig of rosemary Rosemary Simple Syrup Ingredients 1 cup sugar 1 cup water 3 sprigs fresh rosemary Rosemary Simple Syrup Directions Add water, sugar and rosemary to a sauce pot. Bring to a boil and remove from heat. Let the rosemary steep for 10 minutes. Strain, cool, label and store.

Cocktail Directions In a mixing glass, add Dad’s Hat Pennsylvania Rye Whiskey, Chambord and rosemary simple syrup. Add ice, stir and strain into a rocks glass with ice. Run a sprig of rosemary over the grim of the glass and garnish.

Blackberry Old Fashioned

This bright cocktail from Driftless Glen Distillery in Baraboo, Wisconsin, puts a unique spin on a Midwest classic. Fruity yet rich, it features the distillery’s bourbon alongside balsamic from sister company Reneé Olive Oils and Balsamics.

Ingredients 2 ounces Driftless Glen Bourbon Whiskey 1/4 ounce Reneé All Natural Aged Blackberry Ginger Balsamic 1/2 ounce simple syrup 2 blackberries 1 orange slice 2 dashes whiskey barrel-aged bitters Sour and Sprite (equal parts lemon juice and Sprite) to top Directions In an old-fashioned glass, muddle orange slice, blackberries, Reneé All Natural Aged Blackberry Ginger Balsamic, whiskey barrel-aged bitters and simple syrup. Add ice and Driftless Glen Bourbon Whiskey. Top with sour and Sprite. Garnish with an orange slice, a cherry and enjoy!

Rosemary Maple Bourbon Sour This cocktail from Jeffersonville, Vermont-based Smugglers’ Notch Distillery highlights the distillery’s Maple Bourbon, while the rosemary and Vermont maple syrup combine to create a unique spin on the traditional bourbon sour. It’s the perfect way to celebrate the maple sugaring season and the products that result from it.

Ingredients 1 1/2 ounces Smugglers’ Notch Distillery Maple Bourbon 3/4 ounce fresh lemon juice 1/2 ounce Smugglers’ Notch Distillery Bourbon Barrel Aged Maple Syrup 2 sprigs of rosemary 1 lemon wheel Directions Crush one sprig of rosemary in your hand (to help release the oils) and drop it into a shaker. Add Maple Bourbon, lemon juice, maple syrup and ice to the shaker and shake vigorously for 10 seconds. Strain the mixture into a rocks glass with ice and garnish with the remaining sprig of rosemary and the lemon wheel.

Winter Escape This cocktail from Hinterhaus Distilling in Arnold, California, is limited on ingredients and simple to make. It can be enjoyed year-round, though it’s become a winter treat for distillery patrons who want to escape from the cold Sierra Nevada weather.

Hinterhaus Vodka, which is distilled from local wine and boasts residual character, plays nicely with Mexican horchata for this decadent treat.

Ingredients 1 1/2 ounce Hinterhaus Vodka 1 1/2 ounce orange juice 1 1/2 ounce Mexican horchata 1/4 ounce simple syrup Directions Add all ingredients to a shaker with ice. Shake vigorously. Strain into a martini glass rimmed with turbinado sugar and garnished with an orange slice.

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Sunshine & Whiskey This cocktail reminds Baraboo, Wisconsin-based Driftless Glen Distillery of warm, summer days. It features Driftless Glen’s Bourbon, Reneé Honey-Ginger White Balsamic Condimento and honey.

Ingredients 1 1/2 ounces Driftless Glen Bourbon Whiskey 1/8 ounce Reneé Honey-Ginger White Balsamic Condimento 2 ounces lemonade 1/4 ounce honey 4 sprigs mint Directions Add mint, Reneé Honey-Ginger White Balsamic Condimento, honey, Driftless Glen Bourbon Whiskey, lemonade, and ice to a shaker tin. Shake and strain into a low ball glass with ice.

Garnish with mint and enjoy!

ACSA Affairs

TIME IS RUNNING OUT TO ENTER ACSA’S JUDGING OF CRAFT SPIRITS

ACSA CONDUCTS ELECTION FOR NATIONAL BOARD OF DIRECTORS

The final deadline to enter ACSA’s Judging of Craft Spirits is March 25, and all spirits must be received

by March 31. We’re headed to High Wire Distilling Co. in Charleston, South Carolina, this April 5-6 for your spirits to be tasted and evaluated by a panel of top professionals in the following categories: Brandy, Gin, Ready-to-Drink, Rum, Specialty Spirits (absinthe, agave-based products, amaro, aquavit, liqueurs and shochu), Vodka & Grain and Whiskey.

Visit americancraftspirits.org/programs/judging to register.

After a nominating process ending in early March, ACSA is conducting its national elections to fill five board seats, with openings in the East, Central/Mountain and Pacific regions. The terms of office are expiring for: Ryan Christiansen, Caledonia Spirits (Eastern); VACANT (Eastern); Amber Pollock, Backwards Distilling Co. (Central/Mountain); Jeff Kanof, Copperworks Distilling Co. (Pacific) and Molly Troupe, Freeland Spirits (Pacific).

9TH ANNUAL DISTILLERS’ CONVENTION AND VENDOR TRADE SHOW: REGISTER NOW BEFORE RATES RISE IN APRIL We’re headed to New Orleans on July 21-24, 2022, for the 9th Annual Distillers’ Convention and Vendor Trade Show. Register now to save money with our early bird rates. ACSA is planning a stellar convention with three-plus days in the Crescent City, where you will gain tailored educational content from top professionals and have opportunities to mix and mingle with suppliers and friends in our craft spirits community! Register now, and we can’t wait to see you in New Orleans this summer!

When: July 21-24 Where: New Orleans Ernest N. Morial Convention Center Cost: Early Bird Rates (until April 1): Member Attendee: $625*; Additional Member Attendees (from same distillery): $425 per person*; Non-Member Attendee: $825; Additional Non-Member Attendees (from same

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distillery): $475 per person Exhibitor Pricing: 10x10 (single booth) $1,900; 10x20 (double booth) $3,300 As a reminder, ACSA affiliate members receive a 10% discount on their vendor trade show booth. If you have any questions regarding exhibitor registration or need the discount code, please contact Ashley Guillermo at ashley@americancraftspirits.org or 702-301-7802.

Visit americancraftspirits.org/programs/ convention/ to register and to learn more about our pre-convention offerings and more. *ACSA members must be logged into ACSA’s website to receive discounted attendee pricing. If you have trouble logging into your ACSA account please contact Carason Lehmann at carason@americancraftspirits.org.

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ACSA Affairs

ACSA HOSTS QUARTERLY STATE GUILDS ROUNDTABLE In February, ACSA hosted its quarterly roundtable with state distilling guilds. Cochairs P.T. Wood (Wood’s High Mountain Distillery in Salida, Colorado) and Gina

Holman (J. Carver Distillery in Waconia, Minnesota) presided over the meeting via Zoom.

In addition to ACSA programs, events and initiatives, the group discussed food safety

inspections and recent news from the U.S. Department of the Treasury’s report on competition and the U.S. Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB).

GOVERNMENT AFFAIRS ROUNDUP Treasury Releases Competition Report for Alcohol Market: The U.S. Department of the Treasury, in consultation with the U.S. Department of Justice and the Federal Trade Commission, released a new report in February on competition in the markets for beer, wine, and spirits.

While commending the proliferation of new firms over the last several decades, the report also details challenges to the growth of small businesses and new entrants into the marketplace. It contains a series of recommendations to better level the playing field for small businesses and new marketplace entrants by enforcing existing laws that promote competition and modernizing outdated alcohol regulations. The report, Competition in the Market for Beer, Wine and Spirits, is a product of Executive Order 14036, Promoting Competition in the American Economy.

“We’re very pleased that the Biden administration has listened to the concerns of small independent distilleries,” said Margie A.S. Lehrman, CEO of the American Craft Spirits Association. “We believe the report will initiate the federal government and state governments to take a fresh look at antiquated alcohol laws that are working against small businesses and curtailing access to our products for consumers.”

Last August, ACSA submitted comments to the U.S. Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB) in response to the executive order.

TTB Issues Labeling and Advertising Regulations Final Rule; Will Consider Ruling on American Single Malt Whiskey in Future: Also in February, TTB published a final rule that will implement Phase 2 of its rulemaking on modernization of the labeling and advertising regulations for distilled spirits and malt beverages.

In the rule, TTB noted that it received comments in support of including American Single Malt Whiskey as a standard of identity.

However, the rule states that “because these issues were not specifically put forward for comment in Notice No. 176, the public and the industry were not given an opportu-

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nity to comment on the standards of identity suggested by the petitioners. TTB has determined that actions on these petitions would be premature without seeking public comment on the petitioned-for standards of identity. Accordingly, TTB will consider these comments for future rulemaking.”

TTB Issues Industry Circular on Consignment Sales: In early March, TTB released an industry circular clarifying how it views extended payment terms under the consignment sales provisions of the Federal Alcohol Administration Act (FAA Act). ACSA’s government affairs committee is reviewing the circular and seeking further clarification on how it affects craft distillers. If you have questions or comments, please email legislation@ americancraftspirits.org.

ACSA, Hospitality Sector Hold Day of Action for RRF: In February, ACSA and other leaders in the hospitality sector called

on industry advocates across the country to participate in the #HelpHospitality Day of Action to urge their members of Congress to provide additional funding for the Restaurant Revitalization Fund (RRF).

“The Restaurant Revitalization Fund provided critical relief to a wide range of hospitality businesses severely impacted by the pandemic including community restaurants and bars, and distilleries, breweries, wineries, cideries and meaderies with tasting rooms,” the coalition said. “The federal program was hugely successful, but the demand far exceeded the available funds.”

Day of Action participants called, tweeted and emailed their members of Congress to urge them to cosponsor the Continuing Emergency Support for Restaurants Act (S. 2675) and include the legislation in the upcoming government spending package.

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PASSION FOR TASTE A fashion designer’s journey to spirits

Editor’s Note: This is the first in a series of essays written by interns and participants in the STEPUP Foundation, a spirits training and entrepreneurship program for underrepresented professionals in the spirits industry. Learn more at stepupinternship.org.

I’m a misfit. Or at least that’s what I’ve always told myself. That dreadful feeling like you don’t quite belong? That you don’t have a place in your culture? That’s been me. Like a lot of immigrant kids, I grew up differently.

Seaweed rice rolls (kimbab) at lunch in school while other kids ate ham and cheese? Working after hours at your parents’ store while other kids hung out? Not Korean enough for the Korean folks in my community, but not Canadian enough for the Canadians? Check, check and check.

What does one do when they don’t quite belong? Go into fashion, naturally. If I was

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going to be a misfit, the best kind of misfit to be is a cool one. Fashion gave me a way to express myself and stand out—but in a good way. Being a shy person, I discovered that a great outfit could provide a sense of confidence and spark some interesting conversations. I wanted to help others feel great about themselves, so I entered the fashion industry thinking it was a great way to express my creativity while getting to make something.

Over the course of my career in fashion, I found myself in situations that resembled “Mean Girls” meets “Devil Wears Prada.”

There were some lovely folks, but more often than not, people were cut-throat and competitive. It was every person for themselves. If you were too good at what you did, you were perceived as a threat. As fast fashion took off, the world was beginning to view fashion as disposable. This ultimately translated to the people behind the clothes being treated as

disposable. I was disposable. I started to feel like fashion wasn’t sustainable for the environment, the people who made the clothes or for myself. So, I took a step back and freelanced while I tried to find a new dream—a new me.

People always talk about following your passions, but finding a new passion to sink your heart into felt like an intimidating prospect. Where do you even start? Thankfully, I heard some great advice: Follow your interests and those interests will lead you to a passion.

So, I did.

I’ve always been a taste-curious person.

Long after a meal or beverage is gone, I find myself thinking about the flavors. If it wasn’t what I’d just tasted, I’d be thinking about what I was going to eat or make next. To me, being able to identify flavors is like solving a mystery. It feels like a superpower to be able to connect those dots between past memory and the present. But what can you do with a

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PHOTOGRAPHS: JEFF CIOLETTI

BY ERIN LEE

love of flavor? Aside from becoming a chef, I was a bit fuzzy on what to do next. It took a trip to China to sort that out.

Tea was part of my upbringing. I had always enjoyed it but didn’t know much about tea until a whistle-stop tour of East Asia caused me to take a closer look. I learned about preparing tea gongfu style in Beijing. I was hooked then and there. Squeezing in a bit more tea know-how before I left China, I stopped by Tianshan Tea City in Shanghai to dive deeper into the breadth of Chinese tea. By the time I returned to Brooklyn, I had the beginnings of a small tea collection and all the tools needed to prepare tea. What I didn’t know was this was just two of about 10,000 steps.

Tea is an intentional slowdown. The process of preparing and enjoying tea is meditative. Tea became a part of my daily ritual. I enrolled in a tea sommelier program taught by the Tea and Herbal Association

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of Canada, and through the course of eight modules, I learned about tea history, production methods, preparation, flavor pairing, identification and most importantly, how to taste tea. In the process of learning how to taste and analyze tea, it deepened my appreciation for whiskey. Like with tea, I was fascinated by how the same raw materials can taste completely different depending on how they are processed. You don’t rush whiskey—the appearance, aroma, taste and mouthfeel all take time to appreciate.

Then the pandemic changed everything overnight, for the best. Yes, something good came out of the pandemic. A whole host of online events made whiskey even more approachable. As a woman who enjoyed whiskey, I could join events without feeling like I didn’t belong. I joined events through Women Who Whiskey and The Bowery Collective, but I wanted to learn even more

about whiskey. After a bit of research, I found Drammers, a global spirits club with a huge focus on whiskey.

The first few tastings with Drammers were a bit intimidating as people casually whipped out technical terms. But as unfamiliar terms became familiar, I found myself genuinely excited to learn more. These people were beyond passionate—they were head over heels for whiskey. I loved hearing members of the industry, from distillers, blenders, owners, authors and brand ambassadors, talk about the process of making spirits. Down the whiskey rabbit hole I went—I started to read books about whiskey, listen to podcasts and tune in to Instagram Live chats.

It’s so rare to hear about people loving what they do, so when the best in the industry would talk about the journey of continuous learning and how much they love what they do, I paid attention. I also discovered that

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Erin Lee is a Canadian transplant to Brooklyn, New York, and a certified tea sommelier who is transitioning into the distilling industry from a career in fashion. She is part of the STEPUP Foundation’s inaugural class of interns and is currently placed at Westward Whiskey in Portland, Oregon.

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PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY OF ERIN LEE

To me, being able to identify flavors is like solving a mystery. It feels like a superpower to be able to connect those dots between past memory and the present.

the people who make whiskey, especially in craft spirits, can come from anywhere. There are former musicians, lawyers, architects, engineers and ballerinas. I started to wonder if I could add fashion designer to this list.

I had been brainstorming ideas for getting my foot in the door when I saw a post on @ WhiskeyWednesdays’s Instagram account about a very special bottle: Good Deeds Malt Whiskey.

I was intrigued because you don’t often hear about collaborations between more than two parties. I wondered why 10 different distilleries were collaborating and what they were raising money to support. Since I’m always one to dig a little deeper, I ended up on the STEPUP Foundation website. I was in a bit of shock to realize that this was a program created specifically for people just like me.

With just three days to get an application in for the newly extended deadline, I knew I had to take my shot.

Finding out that I had been selected made me feel like my heart was going to burst out of my chest with excitement. I was on cloud nine, but I didn’t fully believe it. It wasn’t until I was at the ACSA’s Distillers’ Convention and Vendor Trade Show in December amongst you that it was real. At the convention, I was amazed to see people who genuinely care for one another; people who value and help one another as colleagues and not competition. I felt like the new kid at school entering a crowded lunchroom. Except I was invited to sit at your table. I felt like I was a valued part of this industry even before my year-long internship journey began. A few weeks in, my days have been filled with so much wonder and learning. I can only imagine what the year ahead will continue to show me.

There’s one thing I know so far—I’m not a misfit. ■

Partnering with member distilleries and

An internship experience that is a STEP above the rest.

wholesalers throughout the United States, we provide a comprehensive training program and provide job exposure for those of different races, color, national origins, genders, and sexual orientations.

LEARN MORE AT STEPUPINTERNSHIP.ORG

SEEDING A REVIVAL Adventures in growing and distilling heirloom rye

BY JEFF CIOLETTI

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Rick Pedersen and Bill Potter examining Horton rye

L

aura Fields has a bone to pick with folks who repeat an all-too-common refrain in the rye distilling world.

“One of the most irritating comments I hear—it’s like nails on the chalkboard for me,” says the aptly-named CEO of the small-farmfocused Delaware Valley Fields Foundation, “is that [heritage] grains are heritage grains for a reason. That’s something I need to correct.”

Heritage/heirloom rye varieties largely disappeared because of a certain Constitutional amendment that was enacted 102 years ago.

“That reason is Prohibition,” says Fields, who also organizes the American Whiskey Convention in Philadelphia. “If it weren’t for Prohibition all of those heritage grains would still be active. There would not be a commodity market the same way that there is today.”

And if Fields has anything to say about it, all of those will be active once again at some point, providing an alternative to the commodity varieties that she likes to call “hamburger grain.” “[Commodity grain] is just a mishmash of different sources, all compiled together into one bulk load. And then [the suppliers] just tractor trailer it over and [say], ‘Here, have some grain.’ It’s the same way we have hamburger [meat] today. We don’t know if this is ‘Bessie,’ it’s just a bunch of different cows and we have no idea.”

As part of its mission to de-hamburgerize agriculture and revive heritage grains that have been all but lost to history, the Delaware Valley Fields Foundation launched the Seed Spark Project, which seeks to restore Pennsylvania’s long-lost grains.

Principal among those is Rosen rye, which played a significant role in the Keystone State’s whiskey distilling history prior to Prohibition. Historical documentation identifies Rosen as part of the mash bills at the old Michter’s Distillery near Schaefferstown, Pennsylvania, for instance. Stoll & Wolfe Distillery in Lititz, Pennsylvania, took a particular interest in it, as the late master distiller Dick Stoll had worked at Michter’s before it closed in 1989 and was keen on using grains he had distilled with there.

So, in 2015, the foundation kicked off its project to return Rosen rye to the state’s farmers and distillers. It started that fall with just five ounces of Rosen planted in the ground. In subsequent years that quantity increased exponentially and by the July 2019 harvest, Stoll & Wolfe was able to distill with more than 500 pounds of milled Rosen.

By the summer 2020 harvest, the project yielded nearly 6,000 pounds of Rosen. That

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“This has been a 10-year project that we haven’t seen a nickel from yet. But we’re really excited about the product. The product in the barrel is really interesting, really good, and it will be an important part of our future.”

—Tom Potter on New York Distilling Co.’s yet-to-be-named whiskey made with Horton rye

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fall, 2,650 pounds of Rosen seeds went into more than 20 acres of land.

Mountain Laurel Spirits in Bristol, Pennsylvania—known for Dad’s Hat Pennsylvania Rye Whiskey—also has been on the forefront of the Rosen revival. Founder Herman Mihalich has partnered with Delaware Valley University in nearby Doylestown, Pennsylvania, for the past seven years to cultivate the rye variety. Mihalich has been working with Nevada Mease of Riegelsville-based Meadow Brook Farms, which started with a few Rosen seeds and continues to increase its yield—but only enough, thus far, to produce test batches on a small, 5-gallon still. Typically, it takes about 2,000 pounds of rye—approximately one acre’s worth—to produce a batch on Dad’s Hat’s full-scale still. For its existing products, Dad’s Hat primarily uses the nonheirloom variety, Prima, among others. “[Mease] has put a lot [of Rosen] back in the ground for us so that next summer we’ll be able to do several full-scale batches,” Mihalich reports. “He’s got several acres now planted and we’re going to take a couple of those and do some big batches and then once again pour as much as we can back into the ground so that more and more gets produced.

… We’re looking forward to next year.”

Rosen’s allure extends beyond Pennsylvania’s borders, as some out-of-state distillers have started to work with it as well.

Far North Spirits in Hallock Minnesota, currently has some in the ground. “I was able to get a few acres’ worth of seed last year,” says Far North owner and distiller Mike Swanson, “and so I’ll be interested to see what that does this summer. That’s the first legit heirloom I’ve grown.”

The appeal of Keystone Rosen Rye—as the Seed Spark Project is branding it—comes down to one simple factor.

“Flavor,” says Fields. “I mean, [it’s] night and day. … There are certain markers in these grains that show different flavor profiles in the long run. You have these heavy, bold characteristics.”

There’s a distinct anise/licorice-like quality that comes through, for instance. “You also get these really heavy fruit and really strong floral notes,” she continues. “So, it’s very, kind of, perfumy, very fruity and beautiful.”

Tasting notes for rye tend to lean on spicy descriptors, but the term doesn’t necessarily do the grain justice.

“Don’t get me wrong,” Fields says, “there is

a spice character there. But it’s not pepper. …

The cooking spice is there, but it’s a sweeter note. Everything about this grain is sweeter.”

New York State of Rye

Historically, Pennsylvania has—rightly—attracted the lion’s share of attention for its place in rye distilling history, but Upstate New York gets to share in that spotlight.

The Empire State boasted its own storied pre-Prohibition rye heritage, which inspired the establishment of the Empire Rye standard a handful of years back. Two of the major tenets of that standard state that 75% of the whiskey’s mash bill must be New York-grown rye and that the product must be mashed, fermented, distilled, barreled and aged at a single New York State distillery.

A portion of that grain—albeit an admittedly small fraction—is likely to be from heirloom varieties, thanks to the pioneering efforts of some of Empire Rye’s founding distillers. New York Distilling Co. in Brooklyn— which, along with Black Button Distilling in Rochester, Coppersea Distilling in New Paltz, Finger Lakes Distilling in Burdett, Kings County Distillery in Brooklyn and Tuthilltown Spirits in Gardiner—launched the Empire Rye

Erik Wolfe and Dick Stoll mashing in with Rosen rye in 2019

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“That’s what we need, more distillers sticking their hands in the dirt and understanding what it is that’s making their whiskey taste the way it does.”

—Laura Fields of the Delaware Valley Fields Foundation

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Clockwise: Rosen rye spikes in the spring; harvesting Rosen in 2020; Rosen grist; Laura Fields; seeding Rosen in the fall.

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Mountain Laurel Spirits founders Herman Mihalich and John Cooper

“For me, it’s getting to know your local farmers and working with them directly, engaging with them so you can educate each other.”

—Herman Mihalich of Mountain Laurel Spirits initiative—began exploring heritage rye more than a decade ago.

Since that time, Rick Pedersen, a farmer in the state’s Finger Lakes region, has supplied much of New York Distilling’s grain, including an heirloom rye variety. “[Pedersen] reached out to Cornell [College of] Agriculture [and Life Sciences] and identified three varietals of rye that had been common in New York in the 1800s and sourced them from a seed depository,” recalls New York Distilling co-founder and president Tom Potter. “When you ask for seeds, you get very few. I think they got 10 of each of the three varietals.”

After a couple of years of propagation—beginning on a small tabletop setup at Cornell— it became clear that one of the varietals,

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known as Horton, was performing far better than the others. Pedersen then put Horton seeds in the ground at his farm.

“We started with a patch, got up to an acre, then five acres,” Potter continues. “It wasn’t until the fifth or sixth year that we actually had enough to distill any of it, and still have enough to put the seeds back and grow more. … We’ve been planting 50, 60 acres every year—I think maybe 100 acres last year.”

New York Distilling Co. has been producing whiskey with Horton every year since the first harvest that yielded enough for distillation, but it has yet to release any.

“This has been a 10-year project that we haven’t seen a nickel from yet,” Potter says.

“But we’re really excited about the product.

The product in the barrel is really interesting,

really good, and it will be an important part of our future.”

That future may be quite soon.

“We’ll start to bring it out in very limited quantities, if all goes well, this October,” Potter reveals. “But we don’t have a name for it yet.”

He’s also reluctant to provide any detailed tasting notes before that time.

“I’m going to be cagey and not describe it quite yet,” Potter says. “It’s our opinion that we’re getting a wonderful intensity of flavor. It was our theory that because the yields were so low, the kind of flavor per kernel could be higher—that [with] whatever’s available in the soil as nutrients to the rye in that acre, you get more nutrients per stalk. I don’t think that’s scientific, but that’s our belief.”

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“If it really didn’t make a difference, we wouldn’t continue with it. But we could tell right off the still that it was different.”

—Jay Erisman on New Riff Distilling’s whiskey made with Balboa rye

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Balboa’s Back in the Ring

While the public has to wait a little longer before it gets to try New York Distilling’s heirloom-ryebased whiskey, fans of New Riff Distilling had that privilege back in the fall of 2019 when the Newport, Kentucky-based producer released a limited batch of its product made from an heirloom variety known as Balboa. Co-founder and distiller Jay Erisman was actually in the market for non-GMO corn when he first encountered the rye. He reached out to Four Roses distilling legend Jim Rutledge for a good farming contact in that space and Rutledge put him in touch with a farmer named Charles Fogg.

“We got hooked up with a wonderful corn farmer and I kept it in the back of my mind to do something with heirloom grains,” Erisman says. “The farmer beat us to it. He was delivering a load of grains in 2014, just a couple of months after we had opened … and he said, ‘By the way, did I ever mention that I grow some rye too?’”

Fogg had been growing Balboa as a cover crop for about two decades before Erisman met him.

“You’ve heard the phrase, ‘You make your own luck’—we kind of made our own luck in getting Balboa rye when working with a farmer like Charles Fogg,” Erisman notes.

“He had never done anything with it, he had just grown it as a cover crop. Some years he plowed it under, other years he harvested it and put it into animal feed, but it had never been sold as a distillate ingredient before.”

A quick side note about the name. Balboa may not be the grain’s true moniker.

“When I talk to agronomists and rye scientists, they correct me gently and say they talk about Balbo rye,” Erisman explains. “We call

it Balboa—we know we’re wrong, but that was how it was sold to us. I think what happened linguistically [was that] there was a crossover from a farmer given the word Balbo and thinking of the Italian surname Balboa.”

And before you think it was an homage to a certain fictional boxer, the first mispronunciation likely occurred decades before the Italian Stallion’s first screen outing. The grain’s peak popularity was in the 1930s.

Whatever you call it, the grain expresses itself considerably differently than the varieties that the distillery uses for its core Kentucky Straight Rye Whiskey—whose mash bill is 95% rye and 5% malted rye, from grains supplied by Brooks Grain. (Erisman expresses great pride in the fact that New Riff uses about 20% more rye than corn on an annual basis, “a statistic I am quite certain has never happened happened before in Kentucky.”)

“I don’t say [Balboa Rye Whiskey] is better than our standard rye, but it’s absolutely different,” he offers.

Among those differences are elevated levels of floral and fruit notes, with a bit less intensity in the realm of clove, cinnamon, mace and other baking spices of their ilk. “It’s otherwise similar in terms of mouthfeel and body, it still behaves just like a rye,” Erisman points out.

The distillery was methodical about determining the grain’s long-term prospects within its portfolio.

“It’s kind of a two- or three-tiered thing,” he says. “If it really didn’t make a difference, we wouldn’t continue with it. But we could tell right off the still that it was different.”

New Riff initially made very little—a single batch, followed by a second batch several

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months later. The team waited for some early, albeit immature, results to come out of the barrel. They’d taste it at six months old, one year old, etc. and then compare that with the distillery’s standard rye at similar ages. “Even at that point this stuff is really good and it’s really distinct from our normal rye,” Erisman reports. “That means there’s a real basis for going forward with more.”

In subsequent years, New Riff ramped up production of Balboa. “We used to take it one batch at a time, which is about 8,000 pounds of rye, and we worked our way up to digesting a silo at a time,” he reveals. “So he then began delivering a full tractor load, which is about 50,000 pounds.”

Lodging Costs

Heirloom rye may be attracting more fans in the distilling world, but it’s not likely to become more than a fraction of producers’ grain supplies any time soon. After all, we’re more than a century removed from its pre-Prohibition heyday and there just aren’t enough farms making it these days for it to make economic sense versus commodity grains.

And many in the agricultural community will continue to rationalize that heritage varieties can be quite difficult to farm.

“When people talk about Rosen, they say, ‘Well, it’s such a temperamental grain,’” Fields notes. “Yeah, that’s okay though. It’s supposed to be. It’s a grain that’s going to respond to terroir and every grain responds to the soil.”

She warns that such complaints stem from a commodity market mindset, which is the dominant one in modern farming.

“You’re thinking, ‘I just want to produce as much of this as humanly possible,’” Fields says.

“You start looking at hybrids, you start looking at genetically altered grain because those are going to grow everywhere and they’re going to grow in massive quantities. That’s such a modern mentality. Before Prohibition, all of the farmers understood that 40 bushel an acre is wonderful, that’s a great yield.”

Rye also has been modified to the point that its stalks are shorter, ostensibly to improve yield by reducing lodging—the tendency for the stalks to fall over toward the end of the season. The shorter the stalk, the less likely they are to lodge.

“That’s why seed companies have put so much money and effort into creating hybrids, so they’re shorter and easier to grow,” Fields explains. “But the problem is in doing that, they’re taking the flavor out—you’re trading flavor for manageability. And is that smart?”

And besides, lodging is not all that bad for

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the plants. In fact, letting things lie (literally) for a little while may actually help the grain.

Fields points out that in northern U.S. states like Minnesota and Michigan—where most American rye is grown—farmers commonly employ a practice called swathing, where they cut the grain in the field and let it sit for five to seven days to dry out on the ground.

“So I envision that leaving it on and letting it lodge is not as bad as cutting it early and not letting it ripen,” she says.

And she doesn’t mean ripen the way fruit ripens. Rye is planted in September and by June it’s fully grown and starting to die because it’s already flowered. Once it pollinates, the seeds begin to ripen.

“So you get these berries and the plant begins to look a bit bulkier on the top and the heads start to fall over—so that’s when the berries are ripening,” she notes. “What you want to do is let that get really nice and dried out.”

The dryness enables storage and milling. Allowing the grain to get to such a low moisture content in the field makes for a riper berry with more flavor packed in it.

“The longer it stays on the stem, the better, in my view, your grain is going to be in the long run,” Fields asserts. “Which is why, even when you’re dealing with a little bit of lodging, you’re still allowing the plant to draw the sugars out of the plant itself and into the berry—and that’s good.”

Cultivating Connections

For the producers turning that grain into whiskey, there’s a great deal that’s good about the whole heirloom rye concept. Dad’s Hat’s Mihalich says that, for one, it gives distillers the opportunity to partner with local farmers—which he finds tremendously rewarding.

“For me, it’s getting to know your local farmers and working with them directly, engaging with them so you can educate each other,” Mihalich says.

And that’s music to Fields’s ears, as part of her mission is to be a conduit between the farmer and the distiller.

“That’s what we need, more distillers sticking their hands in the dirt and understanding what it is that’s making their whiskey taste the way it does,” she muses.

But, above all, experimentation with heirloom rye should remind distillers why they got into this industry in the first place.

“Part of what we’re doing here is bringing really high-quality products to market, but, also, let’s have some fun,” Mihalich says. “If you’re not in this business to have fun, you’d better just go home.” ■

Variety Determines Flavor Not all producers of rye whiskey are going to have the resources or even the desire to work with heirloom grains. The good news for them is that there’s an equally vast spectrum of flavor and aroma nuances across many modern, nonheirloom ryes as there is in the more venerable, pre-Prohibition varieties.

Back in 2015, Far North Spirits owner and distiller Mike Swanson teamed up with the Minnesota Department of Agriculture on a multi-year study to evaluate 15 (non-heirloom) rye varieties on their performance in the field and in distillate form.

“The biggest finding was what we set out to either prove or disprove: that the variety of rye affects the flavor of the distillate,” says Swanson. “All other things being equal, the variety of the grain matters. That hadn’t been proven before. It was one of those things where people were like, ‘yeah, that makes sense,’ but nobody had gone ahead and proven it with a scientific study.”

The research team controlled as many of the variables as they could so that each grain could be evaluated under the exact same conditions as all of the others.

“We found tremendous differences between white distillates coming off the still, each variety being grown in the same ground, milled, mashed, fermented and distilled in the same place, the same methods, the same yeast strain, everything else,” Swanson reveals.

Varieties evaluated included Aroostook, Bono, Brasetto, Cossani, Dylan, Forsetti, Hazlet, Musketeer, Oklon, Prima, Progas, Rymin, Spooner, Triticale (technically a wheat-rye hybrid) and Wheeler.

“What we were able to demonstrate was that you really need to rethink the front end of your production process because it matters,” Swanson continues. “The variety is actually really important.”

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FINISHING TOUCHES Distillers explore new depth in flavor with secondary finishing.

BY TOM BENTLEY

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S

Jordan Via of Savage & Cooke

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econdary finishing (or barrel finishing) has been used by distillers and their kin for years as a way of finessing the flavor-profile dial of a spirit a few degrees, tweaking the liquid in intriguing ways.

But the practice has really come to the forefront in recent years, with producers trying all manner of finishes: hot sauce barrels, anyone?

Not only are spirits being house-swapped with the used barrels of different spirits to give a fresh tang to the finished product, some distillers are experimenting with introducing already-aged products into new wood, leading to exciting results in the glass.

Used and new barrel cooperages are busier than ever, and often fielding unusual requests. Kentucky Bourbon Barrel supplies used barrels, many of those U.S. whiskey and bourbon, with other spirits barrels procured internationally—and sometimes for producers of products not found on liquor shelves. “We have smaller [companies] that are making cider, mead, maple syrup, even tobacco products,” says Noah Steingraeber, global craft sales manager at Louisville, Kentucky-based Kentucky Bourbon Barrel. “There’s somebody that barrel-ages their chocolate cocoa beans in a barrel. And the chocolate is supposed to be phenomenal. I’ve even had inquiries to barrel-age marijuana,” he says.

Though the company does not make new oak barrels for initial aging, it processes up to 3,000 barrels a day to exacting standards.

The company also imports rum, tequila and cognac barrels from international sources, as well as domestic wine barrels. Distillers or resellers are looking for different characteristics from the barrel finishes. “If they want to complement preexisting fruity flavors, or if they want a sweeter profile, or if they want some pepperiness, baking spice, cinnamon, things like that—that dictates what barrel they’re going to utilize for finishing,” says Steingraeber.

Kentucky Bourbon Barrel will sell customers as few as a single barrel to do a trial run with a spirit, though that’s chancy. “I always recommend getting three or four, just because in going one barrel from another, let it be a single-fill bourbon or something else, the tastes are always going to be a bit different.

You want to get a foundation to sample from,” Steingraeber says. “I might recommend a tequila to somebody who wants a more earthy, mineral, or clay-like profile. Just like with wine, there are mineral qualities in wine depending

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Small format barrels from Thousand Oaks Barrel Co.

“Distilleries will utilize the small barrel from a finishing perspective, specifically for the marketing component, helping to build their brand. Bar managers and bartenders become participants in interacting with the producer’s spirit.”

—Bryan Weisberg, CEO of Thousand Oaks Barrel Co. 52 |

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on where it’s grown.”

Some suppliers of secondary-finish barrels only use new wood, to further develop established flavors. “We’re the only people who make a small format or an accelerated-aging barrel that is an actual bourbon barrel, meaning it’s made out of new wood,” says Bryan Weisberg, CEO of Thousand Oaks Barrel Co. in Manassas, Virginia. “Our barrels are generally used for when distilleries are doing test batches. They contact us and say, ‘Hey, I want to send you some wood. Can you make 20 five-gallon barrels out of this particular wood?’”

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“Everybody wants to be different and unique in the market, but there’s sometimes a cost to that.”

—Noah Steingraeber of Kentucky Bourbon Barrel

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WV Great Barrel Co. crafts infared-toasted barrels (inset) and has collaborated with other companies including Smooth Ambler Spirits (bottom right) and Bardstown Bourbon Co. (bottom left).

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PHOTOGRAPHY (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP): MARK ERIC TRENT, KAYLA WHITED AND MICHAEL POWELL

Besides working with wood from distillers, Thousand Oaks sources “short cuts,” recutting the split wood from full-size barrels to size for smaller barrels. Some distilleries then ship their spirits (often bourbon or other whiskey) in those small barrels to bars and restaurants, gaining marketing exposure from the branded barrel, which also further ages the spirit. Or the whiskey is mixed by the establishments for barreled cocktails, like Manhattans. “Distilleries will utilize the small barrel from a finishing perspective, specifically for the marketing component, helping to build their brand. Bar managers and bartenders become participants in interacting with the producer’s spirit,” says Weisberg.

Weisberg appreciates how distillers treat spirits in used barrels for many finishing effects, “… but with us, when they’re moving it into a small format barrel, they’re getting the same flavors as you would get in your new barrel for bourbon,” he says. “You’re just going to get more of your tobaccos and more of your oak, and more of your vanillas—all of those flavors just get enhanced even more.”

He is also concerned that used barrels can sometimes generate Brettanomyces and introduce barnyard flavors in spirits.

For Brett Wolfington, general manager of Caldwell, West Virginia-based WV Great Barrel Co., working in concert with distilleries and other partners in finding the best methods for secondary finishes is a distinct pleasure. Smooth Ambler Spirits makes a number of whiskeys, and they collaborated with the barrel company and with a local retailer on a locally released product.

Smooth Ambler, WV Great Barrel Co. and retailer Spirits and Wine Lewisburg all worked with a 4-year-old rye, Old Scout Rye Single Barrel. “This was a very collaborative effort,” says Wolfington. “The Smooth Ambler team and retailer visited the cooperage to get hands-on during the production of the barrels, and our team later visited Smooth Ambler during the blending process.”

“Community is such an important part of our mission and of Smooth Ambler’s, so to collaborate on the first release of any product aged or finished in West Virginia barrels was really special,” says Wolfington. “We produced a range of toasting options, ultimately allowing Smooth Ambler to experiment with a wider diversity of samples and blend several together for added complexity,” he says.

The barrel company also partnered with Bardstown Bourbon Co., which came to WV Great Barrel Co. looking for something

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special. The barrel company proposed a cherry/oak hybrid barrel and provided multiple toast profiles for experimentation. The teams tested a variety of bourbons and ryes and settled upon the blend of 6- and 7-year old 95% ryes finished in cherry/oak barrels with two different toast profiles.

“The exciting thing was that we really didn’t know what to expect, as there are so few examples out there,” says Wolfington. “Early results would indicate that the sweetness of the cherry is really going to come through in the finished product, and meld nicely with the spiciness of the rye.”

Wolfington says that Bardstown estimates they’ll keep the whiskey for six months in the finishing barrels, but that could change as the flavor develops. WV Great Barrel Co. focuses on a range of toasting options for its customers to make a variety of sampling barrels.

“We bring them out to the cooperage to observe and provide input on the barrel production process, and then contribute to the blending process through tasting sessions at the distilleries as well as virtually,” says Wolfington.

On the distillery side, many distillers experiment with wine and fortified wine barrel finishes. Scotch producers have worked with ports and sherrys, as well as Madeiras and Marsalas for some time. At Savage & Cooke in Vallejo, California, several whiskeys have second marriages in wine barrels, sourced through the expertise of the distillery founder, Dave Phinney, a star in Napa Valley wines.

Savage & Cooke’s master distiller, Jordan Via, built out all distilling equipment and devised the processes and formulations for three wine-influenced whiskeys, in partnership with Phinney. Burning Chair bourbon is barrel-finished with Napa Cabernet barrels, the Lip Service rye with French grenache, and an unclassified whiskey with a local Zinfandel.

“We tried a lot of different barrels, a lot of different finishes: Petite Syrah, Charbonneau grape, different types of Cabernet Sauvignon from different areas up and down Napa Valley, and the Central Coast,” says Via. “The French grenache added that top note of fruit character.”

To control the process on the rye, Savage & Cooke took 25% of its rye stock and aged it up to 60 days in the grenache barrels, and then blended it back with the remaining 75% of the rye.

The distillery must be careful with the wine barrel finishes because of the deep character of the wines. “The Cabernet is a very

intense, very dusty, traditional big Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon,” says Via. “The barrels are Limousin French oak barrels full of residual fruit tannin from this big, dusty, thick-skinned grape varietal that was in there. That can quickly get away from you in the sense of turning the whiskey into something unpalatable due to the grip—tannin and high alcohol don’t mix so well together. That component has to be managed,” he says.

Because of the potential for the more aggressive notes from the Napa Cab and Zin, those barrel finishes are closer to 45 days.

The distillery also runs a restaurant that pours the wine-finished whiskeys, as well as a program for liquor stores and other restaurant groups in which it sends them small samples of the finished whiskeys and walks them through the process of crafting custom blends, which Savage & Cooke then supplies in larger amounts.

Occasionally customers ask Thousand Oaks Barrel Co. to cut small strips of unusual woods, like Hawaiian koa, and then have them toasted to specification to insert in a barrel for a finish. Since the company sells 200,000 to 300,000 barrels a year to the home consumer market, it does hear many requests.

“Some could be very interesting and good.

Many of them are terrible. I mean, you throw some cedar inside of a barrel. Cedar’s great as a plank to make fish, but it is terrible in whiskey,” says Weisberg.

Steingraeber from Kentucky Bourbon Barrel echoes that: “They want to use chestnut, ash, cherry, maple wood, amburana from Brazil,” he says. “Can we make barrels out of these different woods? Yes, we can. But they all have certain effects and they’re more prone to dripping or leaking because they don’t have the tyloses that oak barrels have. Everybody wants to be different and unique in the market, but there’s sometimes a cost to that.”

There are many aging innovations in the spirits world now. Ever hear of Jefferson’s Ocean whiskeys that cross the equator in barrels a couple of times to use the ship’s movements and temperature changes to temper the spirit? Or how about Metallica’s Blackened whiskey line, with the barrels exposed to loud—of course, it’s Metallica—recordings of the band’s music through an enhanced “Black Noise” speaker system?

However, like that new suit or new haircut that seemed like such a good idea at the time, and later turned out to be not so, weigh the costs before you put a hot-sauce barrel finish on your cask—it might not turn out so hot. ■

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member spotlight

Proud Legacy Built for contract distilling, Kentucky Artisan Distillery forges ahead while honoring its past.

BY JON PAGE

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I

t was supposed to be a hobby.

Something to occupy the weekends.

At least that’s what Chris Miller thought a decade ago when he, Steve Thompson and Mike Loring started Kentucky Artisan Distillery. But it turned out that a contract distillery, in the heart of bourbon country, designed to make anywhere from one to thousands of barrels a year for its partners was good business. In 2015, the popular Jefferson’s Bourbon brand made Kentucky Artisan Distillery its home base. Over the years, production increased from 50 barrels per year to 3,000. And eventually, the distillery had to start turning away new clients.

Today, as distillery director, Miller oversees all operations—on weekdays—at the distillery in Crestwood, about 20 miles east of Louisville. That includes a current expansion that will modernize the distillery, which was initially built from used equipment—except for one pump they purchased from Tractor Supply Co. “Cumulatively, if you added everything up

from the time that we started,” says Miller, “all the money we put into it when we started to the new equipment and everything we added, we’re spending more this year than we have all that together.”

The growth and success of the distillery is largely thanks to Thompson, who passed away at the age of 79 last September. “[Steve] was the driving force behind it,” says Miller.

“Luckily for us, he got it to a point where we could just go on momentum.”

Before opening Kentucky Artisan Distillery, Thompson served as the president of BrownForman from 1987 to 1995 and he created Hawaii Island Spirits Inc. in 2007. It was that background and Thompson’s honesty that drew Trey Zoeller—who founded Jefferson’s Bourbon with his father, Chet—to Kentucky Artisan Distillery. “[Steve was] one of these guys that would just tell you the truth,” says Zoeller. “If he thought you had a dumbass idea, he would say, ‘Why in the hell would you want to do that?’ And then explain why it was a dumb

idea. Which I absolutely loved. And no matter what I wanted to do, he would say, ‘Alright, we’ll find a way to do it.’ He just didn’t have no in his vocabulary.”

Through it all, says Zoeller, Thompson wore a smile.

“It was a point in his life where he was just having fun,” continues Zoeller. “We needed somebody that would be very, very flexible and willing to try different things, and he certainly was.”

Zoeller adds that Miller has done an excellent job of maintaining the legacy he started with Thompson, and also credits master distiller Jade Peterson, who was mentored by Thompson.

Peterson moved to Kentucky to start a power washing business and took a part-time job on Kentucky Artisan Distillery’s bottling line. As other employees moved on or were promoted, Peterson continued to raise his hand and accept new positions. He eventually sold off the power washing company to focus on bourbon, and received additional

“[Steve Thompson] was the driving force behind it.

Luckily for us, he got it to a point where we could just go on momentum.”

—Chris Miller of Kentucky Artisan Distillery

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In addition to serving as the official home of Jefferson’s, Kentucky Artisan Distillery is also the home of Whiskey Row Distiller’s Select Bourbon Whiskey and Billy Goat Strut North American Whiskey, among others.

Trey Zoeller of Jefferson’s Bourbon

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education throughout the process from Western Kentucky University’s brewing and distilling science program and the Institute of Brewing and Distilling.

“Obviously [Steve] was a huge mentor and teacher for me in the industry,” says Peterson.

And he had brought in 50-plus years of experience in packaging and distilling and different distribution techniques. So it was a world of knowledge that, luckily, I was able to work side by side with him for years.

“Over the last two or three years, he finally got to kind of experience a bit more of retirement as he had built up a management team and distillers. … That was good to be able to see him relax a little bit and put more of that responsibility on us.”

In addition to serving as the official home of Jefferson’s, Kentucky Artisan Distillery is also the home of Whiskey Row Distiller’s Select Bourbon Whiskey and Billy Goat Strut North American Whiskey, among others. Whiskey Row was Thompson’s brand, and Peterson recalled a recent barrel dump in which he remembered previous dumps with Thompson.

“He’d give me some autonomy,” says Peterson. ‘“Hey Jade, go and pick out the barrels you want to use, and then let’s walk it back from there.’ And this time it really wasn’t that way. So it was a little more freedom, but at the same time, you still get that second guessing of … I hope this would be what he wanted.”

Sourcing local grains is also important to the distillery. Its corn and rye are grown and harvested at Waldeck Farm, which is a mile by car (or a short walk down the hill from the distillery). Miller says the rye continues to improve. “Nobody grew rye in Kentucky,” says Miller. “[That] first year was not that great.

Second year was a really good strain and each year it gets better. Our farmer becomes better and better and better at growing rye. Our yields per acre are going up every year.”

Peterson takes pride in showing clients the farm, and in seeing bourbon go from grain to glass. “When you’re putting down barrels that may be down for six, eight, 10, 12 years, you kind of forget that there’s a human aspect to it; that there’s a good chance some of those employees will never see that whiskey age out. I’ve kind of taken that as a point of pride that some of our products are now bottled in bond and being released as six- and sevenyear-old whiskeys. It’s been really cool to be part of that growth and continue to be able to sell that to the customers coming in.” ■

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distilling destinations

THE CENTRAL OHIO SPIRITS DESTINATION Columbus launches a distillery trail to raise awareness and interest.

BY JOHN HOLL

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J

ust after the start of the new year, visitors began arriving in Columbus, Ohio, area distilleries with a passport in hand, or app on their phone. They were looking for an experience, information and flavor along the newly launched Columbus Distillery Trail.

It had been years in the making, says Greg Lehman, the founder and CEO of Watershed Distillery—one of the city’s oldest—and as tourism looks to pick up after two years of COVID-19 roadblocks, the time seemed right.

The enthusiasm is certainly there.

It does not take long in a conversation with a distiller in the central Ohio city for them to bring up local pride and a general excitement about not only their own operation but of others in the city and general area.

“We all work together; we’re buds and friends even though we compete with each other out there in the marketplace,” says Lehman.

To bring the trail to a reality the distillers

needed help and turned to Experience Columbus, the local tourism group, which co-sponsored the initiative with Destination Grandview, a separate visitor’s bureau.

The area was already home to a coffee trail and an art trail and adding distilling to the mix is aimed at bringing in visitors from outside the area, as well as giving residents weekend plans and a sense of local pride.

“Columbus’s skilled artisans win international accolades and have led the national movement for more than 10 years,” announced Experience Columbus when it unveiled the trail’s formation. “In fact, Columbus distilleries are defining one of the most exciting spirits and cocktail scenes in the country, placing the city on the map as a must-visit destination for booze buffs.”

Distillery and other alcohol-based trails are nothing new, but they are tourism dollar drivers and help to introduce new places and experiences to curious consumers. The

“We want to entertain and have fun and be interactive with people. These tours are about telling stories that can connect with people.”

Kentucky Bourbon Trail is perhaps the most famous in the country, with experiences steeped in tradition and history lined up for serious drinkers.

Lehman is a fan of the experience but also points out that it is usually for the die-hard enthusiasts and focused largely around just the one spirit. With the Columbus Distillery Trail Lehman and others want to focus on their individual offerings as well as cocktails and a vibrant food scene.

“The benefit of our trail is that all of the distilleries, young and old, are doing something different, and really leaning into innovation,” says Josh Daily, the general manager of Middle West Spirits. “It’s really cool to see everyone’s scalability.”

In addition to Middle West and Watershed, the other distillery spots on the trail include Echo Spirits and Distilling, Endeavor Brewing and Sprits, 451 Spirits, Noble Cut Distillery and High Bank Distillery.

Greg Lehman of Watershed Distillery

—Greg Lehman of Watershed Distillery

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Middle West Spirits

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Echo Spirits and Distilling

Passport holders who visit four of the locations and make a purchase will receive a bottle of Simple Times blackberry lemonade mixer. Visitors to all seven stops receive a t-shirt.

A few weeks after the trail’s launch, Daily

The benefit of our trail is that all of the distilleries, young and old, are doing something different, and really leaning into innovation.”

says that Middle West has already seen an uptick in business from customers who heard about the initiative. Most consumers are well aware of “billboard brands” he says, citing larger producers with hefty advertising budgets, but not everyone in the area has heard

about smaller distilleries.

Now with all the craft producers working together, the word-of-mouth aspect will help drive business beyond just four walls. The buzz around the trail has not only brought new drinkers to the doorstep but reminded

High Bank Distillery

—Josh Daily of Middle West Spirits

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More Distilleries in Ohio Outside of Columbus and its distillery trail, there are other spirits destinations to be found. Tour around Ohio to try local flavor and see distilling entrepreneurship at work.

Brain Brew Custom Whiskey (Cincinnati): A craft distillery that produces spirits for collaboration partners under the Brain Brew Custom Whiskey banner. Dexter Bourbon Co. is the group’s primary retail brand.

Everwild Spirits (Sandusky): Founded in 2020 by Rick and Gia Lynch, the brand is designed to evoke the “excitement, anticipation, the exhilaration that you feel when you escape the everyday life.” Distilling is in the company’s DNA with Rick’s grandfather being part of the trade. They plan to make and release small batch bourbon.

Iron Vault Distillery (Galion): Describing itself as a “small town distillery with a small town style” Iron Vault was founded in 2017 and is working on bourbon production but is currently releasing gin, vodka, moonshine and an aquavit.

Northern Row Brewery and Distillery (Cincinnati): Located inside of a building dating back to 1895, this imbibing destination in the city’s brewery district added a distillery to existing brewing operations. Today it’s producing craft gins, rums, malted whiskey, vodkas and bourbons. Under the Five Stories banner, the company says each spirit is crafted “using traditional pre-prohibition mash builds and recipes.”

West Branch Malts and Distillery (Brunswick): A combination of a malt house and a distillery in a town southwest of Cleveland brings true meaning to the idea of grain to glass. From single malts to flavored whiskies, the distillery also produces flavored vodkas and what it calls “maltshine.”

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Noble Cut Distillery

customers that maybe hadn’t visited in several years or more that a return was in order.

“They can see what has changed since the last time they visited,” Daily says. “They can taste what is new and what has been aged.”

As the country heads into the all-important summer tourism season, Lehman sees possibility in the success of the trail. COVID-19 put a halt to tours for nearly two years. With mask mandates easing, vaccinations being administered, and a general desire for people to return to “normal,” the Watershed Distillery resumed tours shortly before the launch of the trail and plans to keep them going.

Having that as an option for visitors really helps connect with consumers who might come in only expecting to have a drink or a bite to eat, but once they walk the production floor or visit a barrel storage warehouse of a distillery, they form a deeper bond and understand the true nature of supporting local.

When that experience is repeated several more times at different locations, all linked through distilling, the bond only strengthens.

“We want to entertain and have fun and be interactive with people,” Lehman says.

“These tours are about telling stories that can connect with people. You start talking about plates in a column and some eyes are going to glaze over. But when we talk about challenges faced and how we started they get excited because they can relate. Then you start thieving and taking samples and they are hooked.”

One further way distilleries along the trail are looking to connect is by offering a signature trail cocktail which not only showcases personality and ingenuity, but also can highlight a particular spirit that a company is proud of and wants part of a drinker’s consciousness.

Other states might have more prominence among spirits aficionados, but in Ohio the pride among distillers is almost as strong as the desire to grow the industry, market share and loyal consumer base.

“It would be great to see Cincinnati and Cleveland, and then all of Ohio get a distillery trail,” says Daily. “That’s where we’d like to see it because this state is so dynamic and making great spirits. It’s not just here in Columbus.” ■

451 Spirits

FROM OUR ARCHIVES Click here to read more about the rapid rise of distillery tours.

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Distribution and Logistics

PLANNING FOR THE NEXT BIG THING Being prepared for disaster both big and small can keep the wheels of business turning.

BY JOHN HOLL

Monica Pearce

“A lot of us are still new and barely profiting and need weekend sales to cover payroll a week later. The pandemic had me thinking about how to better save.”

—Monica Pearce of Tenth Ward Distilling Co.

As the novel coronavirus pandemic enters into a third year, craft distillers across the U.S. are well-calloused against the constant blows to their businesses. From shutdowns and restrictions, to government paperwork, bank meetings, customer support and shade, and pivoting to the point of becoming human pretzels, there is a sense of exhaustion but resolve.

Warmer months across North America usually signal tourism, filled tasting rooms and robust sales. Once again there is a sense of hope in the air, but also a reminder that once bitten it is important to be twice shy.

Craft distillers have learned a lot about their business, consumer trends, and managing expectations since March 2020 and even if this summer goes as hoped, there is still worry that the next disaster could be lurking around the corner.

Amid the staff shortages and supply chain issues, many distillers have been thinking about long-term viability and ways to adapt quicker and in a meaningful way should the world, big or small, suddenly shift underneath them.

This includes financial reserves in the bank, adaptive shift changes, investing in technology, being efficient with deliveries and more. Creating an action plan now means being ready for when life stabilizes, but also changes. Planning now, distillers say, will help them be nimble in the future.

Near the top of the list for everyone is access to supplies.

“The pandemic made us realize the fragility of our position in the supply chain,” says Darren Case, the owner and distiller at Round Turn Distilling in Biddeford, Maine. “It started with the availability of the neutral spirit we use as the base for our gin. The shortage of hand sanitizer in spring 2020 caused a massive spike in demand for ethanol.”

As a result, he said their vendor was unable to fulfill orders when the price skyrocketed.

Over the last two years he’s seen all the raw and packaging materials they use for their gin and for the tasting room surged in price while becoming harder and harder to secure.

Early on as COVID-19 impacted everyday life, Case, like so many others, was able to survive by selling to-go cocktails. The challenges, of course, were finding bottles and caps for packaging.

“The lesson we’ve learned is to never take availability for granted,” he says. “Prepandemic, we would order just enough materials for each batch of gin as we produced it.

Now, we are devoting more time to forecasting future production volumes and purchasing as much of everything as we can afford. For

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example, previously we sourced our juniper from a domestic e-commerce platform. Now, we’ve managed to form a relationship with a supplier in eastern Europe to secure our annual supply in advance of each harvest.”

Other distillers agree with looking beyond the local problems and looking globally.

“Glass, wood, metals, corks, you name it, generally comes from some global checkpoint,” says Mike Root the founder and owner of Copper Sky Distillery in Longmont, Colorado. “Most of the commodities have an immediate impact on our industry. Becoming familiar with what is happening, and being able to identify trends, will give you valuable insight to what is to come.”

Where budgets and storage areas exist, many spirit makers have tried to stock up on items beyond immediate need, trying to forecast where slowdowns might occur and later impact business. Buying in advance as well, can also have long-term cost savings.

Monica Pearce, the founder of Tenth Ward Distilling Co. in Frederick, Maryland, has spent the last two years managing the day-today and thinking about the future. Money has been on her mind.

“In this industry, we’re all a heavy cash-flow business,” she says. “A lot of us are still new and barely profiting and need weekend sales to cover payroll a week later. The pandemic had me thinking about how to better save.”

Pearce says that business savings are often on the mind of every small business owner but then a hose or piece of equipment will break, or an unexpected expense will come up and the reserve is depleted.

“So it’s planning for that in a savings plan,” she said.

Pearce has also changed the language in Tenth Ward’s event and party contracts.

Many businesses took a hit in early 2020 when events had to be canceled and there were not legal safeguards in place regarding postponement or refunds. She has changed the language and made customers aware of expectations should outside forces lead to the cancellation of an event.

“We can’t afford to refund everyone, but our contracts really make our clients a bit more prepared if something needs to get called off and it’s out of our control,” she says.

An aspect of the business that helped Tenth Ward survive the last two years has been its membership clubs. Currently the distillery offers two clubs, a bottle release four times a year and a monthly cocktail club. By signing up members, who can pick up regularly or receive through direct-to-consumer

Darren Case

“The pandemic made us realize the fragility of our position in the supply chain.”

—Darren Case of Round Turn Distilling shipping, the distillery is guaranteed regular deposits to its bank account.

Pearce modeled this after the wine industry where the practice is common and lucrative. She plans to grow the program in the coming months.

“I know I’m guaranteed a regular revenue stream and don’t always have to be worried about a rainy weekend ruining sales,” she said.

There are countless things a distillery can do to prepare for the next big event, which can include extreme weather. Having a proper action plan should be part of every planning conversation or growth forecast.

Looking at local businesses outside of spirits can also help create inspiration and lead to action. Above all else, it is important to keep the faith that hard work will be rewarded.

“We’ve learned that there is no difference between expected or unexpected; the pandemic proves that the future defies expectation.

The one thing we can count on is ourselves and the loyalty of our customers,” says Case.

“When you’re a young and small business in this industry, it’s terrifying to buy a whole year’s worth of glass bottles, especially when the floor has dropped out from beneath you. The thing that gets you to sign that gigantic check is the belief in your and your team’s capability to keep filling those bottles and your loyal customers’ continued support.” ■

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legal corner

OUT OF STOCK? Contract considerations during the supply chain disruption

BY COREY DAY AND CRAIG PACHECO

Editor’s Note: This column is intended to be a source of general information, not an opinion or legal advice on any specific situation and does not create an attorney-client relationship with readers.

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Supply shortages are striking the distillery industry particularly hard. Many distilleries, especially those of modest size, are currently finding themselves unable to fulfill orders due to unforeseen delays in receiving inputs to

production including bottles, barrels, other raw materials and equipment. Unfortunately, upstream supply shortages and the resulting delays may not automatically relieve distillers of their downstream obligations to

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customers, whether or not there is a formal written contract in place. The inability to fulfill orders negatively impacts these businesses’ cash flow and can lead to major disruptions in operations. For those industry members who are facing disruptions in their business due to supply shocks, here is some general guidance for how to evaluate and limit your liability to get through the crunch.

Distillers should first audit their material obligations by organizing all of their written contracts with customers and suppliers, including the terms and conditions often found in the fine print on purchase orders, and confirming whether they have any material oral agreements or other handshake deals.

What is or isn’t material will depend on the distiller’s individual circumstances, but in general, if a customer accounts for more than 10% of revenue, that would be considered material. If there are material agreements without formal contracts in place, distillers would be well-advised to organize any written correspondence that includes terms of the unwritten agreement, including emails and text messages, and document as much of the supporting information as possible: i.e., when was the agreement made, who was present, what were the specific terms.

There is a common misperception in the industry that handshake deals are not enforceable and don’t bear the same level of liability as written agreements. Unfortunately, in practice the opposite tends to be true. When a dispute arises regarding a material agreement that is not formalized in a signed contract, the parties will often spend substantial time and money fighting about what precisely the verbal terms were and whether the other side breached them. Similarly, in the distribution context, certain state laws may create a contractual franchise relationship from the first sale of a new product to the distributor.

An experienced alcohol beverage attorney is best positioned to advise on alcohol distribution franchise law matters.

Key clauses in written contracts and purchase orders include the following: payment terms; delivery deadlines; liquidated damages; notice requirements; conditions triggering a default and how to cure; amendment and modification; and force majeure.

Second, distillers should sort and triage with the assistance of counsel to determine what has been promised to be delivered, by when, to whom; what the potential consequences for failing to do so are; whether formal notice is required; and how to cure any contractual breaches. Contracts with

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inflexible deadlines and liquidated damages clauses should get first priority, as failing to deliver on them can lead to clear breach of contract with specific monetary penalties.

It’s also important to understand what happens when a breach occurs and how long a party may have to fix or cure the breach. To that end, a careful reading of each contract’s notice requirements is essential to determine how notice related to any breach must be delivered, so the other party can’t claim that they weren’t made aware of any important information based on a technical failure to follow the contract’s notice requirements.

Third, communication and reasonable negotiation between decision makers can be essential to avoid a costly legal battle. The current crisis is no secret, and many customers are experiencing issues with other suppliers that are unable to meet their contractual obligations. In many cases, proactive communication has the effect of reinforcing trusting business relationships during difficult circumstances and making parties more amenable to amending or modifying the relevant contract to work around a supply chain disruption. It is important that any amendment or modification to a contract is documented in writing and signed by both parties so both sides are clear on which terms of the agreement have changed, and which remain in effect.

Finally, if the parties cannot agree on how to amend or modify the agreement, look to the contract’s force majeure clause with the assistance of an attorney. Force majeure clauses are generally intended to excuse a party from performing its obligations under a contract when some event occurs that renders performance of the contract impossible; whether that be a volcano erupting in a common global flight path, a container ship blocking a canal or a global pandemic, unexpected things happen. The circumstances under which force majeure is triggered are generally limited to the express language of the clause, and supply chain disruptions may be expressly included or excluded. Importantly, force majeure clauses are not magic get-outof-bad-contracts free cards. Instead, they come into play when a specific triggering event or circumstance occurs, and they often include procedures that must be followed to notify the other party of the triggering event and sometimes even an option to terminate the contract if the event or circumstance continues for a specified period of time.

The current shortages, as with all supply shocks, will pass. Until then, distilleries can make sure to take the appropriate steps to

The current shortages, as with all supply shocks, will pass. Until then, distilleries can make sure to take the appropriate steps to weather the storm and prepare for the next one weather the storm and prepare for the next one. As discussed above, consider expressly including supply chain disruptions or cost of goods increases over a certain amount and/or a certain period of time as a trigger for a force majeure clause. The distiller can also include express terms in its contracts that allow for the pass-through of cost of goods increases to the consumer, either dollar for dollar or through some other calculation. Get creative and work with the customer. Think of common sense solutions to unexpected delays and cost increases, who should bear the risk, and in what percentages. ■

Corey Day is an alcohol beverage attorney and litigator at Stoel Rives LLP and can be reached via email at corey.day@ stoel.com or by phone at (916) 319-4670.

Craig Pacheco is an alcohol beverage attorney in Stoel Rives LLP’s corporate practice group. Craig can be reached via email at craig. pacheco@stoel. com or by phone at (206) 386-7647.

MARC H/APR I L 20 22

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retail

WHAT’S IN STORE A Q&A with John Bodnovich, executive director of American Beverage Licensees

The past two years have been a roller coaster—to put it lightly—for the spirits retail sector, both on- and off-premise. We wanted to get a snapshot of where retailers are at this particular moment in time and who better to provide that picture than John Bodnovich, executive director of American Beverage Licensees (ABL), the trade association representing America’s beverage alcohol retailers.

The pandemic affected the on- and off-premise differently. What are the challenges of balancing the needs of both sets of members when in certain years they’re so out of balance?

We did we see a shift in market share from on-premise to off-premise at the start of the pandemic as states forced bars, taverns and restaurants to close for up to 100 days in some places. Our focus was on helping those businesses re-open as quickly and safely as possible and it remains on getting them federal relief as many are still trying to get

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MARC H/APR IL 20 22

up off the mat. Off-premise operators had to adjust to customers who were pantry loading and also balance the public health and safety needs of their employees and customers. We supported their designation as essential businesses by federal and state governments. So, while things may have been a bit unbalanced, they were not incompatible as it relates to ABL’s commitment to representing and serving its members. And we are pleased that, in several ways, we are arcing back toward a pre-pandemic equilibrium.

What sort of impact has the Omicron variant had on retailers at a time when they were still dealing with the effects of widespread closures, especially in the on-premise?

Omicron, like the Delta variant before it, has presented its own set of challenges, but I think for the most part the hospitality community has worked well with local governments to use the experiences of the last two

years to inform COVID policy initiatives in a manner that addresses COVID upticks while also recognizing the importance of keeping bars and taverns open. Decisionmakers also are acknowledging that increasingly prevalent challenges—inflation, supply chain and product access issues, labor shortages, etc.—are weighing on licensees’ ability to stay in business.

What do you see as the key government affairs priorities for beverage alcohol retailers going into 2022?

Federally, we remain committed to securing relief for bars and taverns, whether through the appropriation of additional Restaurant Revitalization Fund (RRF) resources; securing tax credits for unmerchantable food and beverages that bars, taverns and restaurants lost during the pandemic; or by working in coalition on small or retail business issues such as credit card swipe fees.

We are also actively engaged in the

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“While much ink has been spilled about the lasting effects of the pandemic, the jury is still out on just how sticky some e-commerce will be relative to customers venturing back out to brick-and-mortar retailers for a tactile, visceral experience. Unlike the post office or the dry cleaners, people tend to look forward to going to their local liquor store and perhaps discovering something new and interesting.”—John Bodnovich

growing conversation about competition in the alcohol industry, which has touched all tiers with the Treasury Department report published in February. We are also tracking and engaging on impaired driving issues, pointing out that attempts to arbitrarily lower the BAC nearly in half to .05% BAC are misguided and the wrong approach when it comes to fighting drunk driving. ABL will continue to participate in the conversation about new impaired driving technology language that was included in the bipartisan transportation bill signed into law last year.

In the states, ABL affiliates (state retail associations) are actively advocating for their members on a variety of issues to make sure that consumers can continue to benefit from the fruits of vibrant, three-tier alcohol ecosystems that have created more choice and value than ever before. ABL makes sure those groups have lines of communications and industry information on shared issues and can rely on the ABL network to strengthen their positions.

What other sorts of major trends do you see driving the business this year?

I had the opportunity to meet with several of our affiliates at the end of last year in places like Montana, Illinois, New York, Wisconsin, Texas and other states. In each place, the message was loud and clear: Labor and staffing are the most pressing problem for beverage licensees. A close second was supply chain and product shortages that are as varied as the businesses that are experiencing them. Many beverage licensees are unable to get what have long been staple products and

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are thus challenged to meet consumer needs.

The growth of RTDs is another hot topic that has brought its own questions regarding taxation and where some of those products should be sold.

How is the rise of beverage alcohol e-commerce a factor for off-premise retailers? Are they finding mutually beneficial ways to work together?

Though the pandemic has heightened the e-commerce conversation, e-commerce is far from monolithic. For some in the industry, it means wide-open global shipping, where for others it means three-tier compliant local delivery. Right now, the narrower definition is far more operative than the broader one, as states and industry consider e-commerce issues. It’s safe to say that most retailers who had or developed e-commerce platforms— primarily for delivery—during the pandemic saw an increase in business via those platforms.

While much ink has been spilled about the lasting effects of the pandemic, the jury is still out on just how sticky some e-commerce will be relative to customers venturing back out to brick-and-mortar retailers for a tactile, visceral experience. Unlike the post office or the dry cleaners, people tend to look forward to going to their local liquor store and perhaps discovering something new and interesting.

What roles do you see the on- and offpremise playing in growing the craft spirits segment? What can craft spirits producers do to make the relationship mutually beneficial?

Independent beverage licensees are brand

builders. Whether it’s at the bar or the package store, they are the last to handle most products before they are enjoyed by the consumer. It’s a role they take seriously, and they train and educate their staff accordingly.

They are also often friends or neighbors with craft distillers and see mutual success as beneficial to their communities.

Spirits producers can and should support retailers because retailers remain the best and more cost-effective way to grow their spirits brands and businesses. If the independent retail market were to go away, craft distillers would be at a significant disadvantage. This also means that craft distillers—and all alcohol producers for that matter—should make their products available to retailers, including limited releases, collaborations or other exciting expressions that will excite customers and bring them to retail stores and bars.

Any last thoughts on the past year and what’s in store for the rest of 2022?

Whether it’s in the policy arena or in the marketplace, the last two years have felt like someone put their foot down on the accelerator and didn’t let up. There’s no reason to think that 2022 will be too different in that regard.

But that’s exciting for the already alwaysinteresting beverage alcohol industry. It’s also more reason to stay informed (by reading publications like CRAFT SPIRITS magazine!) and stay engaged with a wide array of industry members. You never know where the industry will take you, and if the last two years have taught us anything, it’s that it’s always good to friends and colleagues along the journey. ■

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Production

POSITIVE IMPACT A Q&A with Cate Crabtree of WV Great Barrel Co.

The idea for Caldwell, West Virginia-based WV Great Barrel Co. was born after a flood in 2016 devastated the nearby city of White Sulphur Springs. In January, we caught up with Cate Crabtree, the cooperage’s sales and marketing manager, to reflect on the company’s past and learn more about its offerings.

ACSA: It must be surreal to look back on the flood. What does WV Great Barrel Co. mean to its community and West Virginia?

Cate Crabtree: Our founders realized during a massive volunteer flood recovery effort that they needed to do more than just rebuild homes if they wanted to effect long-term change in this region. They needed to create

jobs. An economic driver. And a way to add value in West Virginia to a sustainable natural resource. But it’s more than that. I always say, the one thing I’ve learned from living and working in West Virginia for the past few years is this: If you want to make a real, positive impact on people’s lives, the best thing you can do is start in the place where you are.

It’s not just West Virginia, though. I think this is a message that the craft distilling community embraces and lives fully, so we’re in good company. We’re proud of our story, we’re proud of the commitment of our team, and we’re proud of what we set out to do and the way we’re doing it. This legacy is continuing today, in fact. One of our founders, Tom

“We’re proud of our story, we’re proud of the commitment of our team, and we’re proud of what we set out to do and the way we’re doing it.”

—Cate Crabtree of WV Great Barrel Co. 72 | Cate Crabtree

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Crabtree, is in Mayfield, Kentucky, right now, guiding the leadership of Homes and Hope for Kentucky, as they follow the same path to recovery that was designed here in West Virginia after the 2016 flood.

You source tight grained Appalachian white oak from a 200-mile radius. What makes it ideal for aging spirits? And what’s your approach when it comes to sustainability?

These are important questions to us, to distillers, and to whisk(e)y drinkers. As Travis Hammond over at Smooth Ambler says, “It’s hard to be a tree in West Virginia.” That’s true for most of Appalachia. The terrain is mountainous and rocky, and the winters are cold.

So the tree has to work a little harder, keep a little more sugar stored away for the winter, and grow a little more slowly. That means more growth rings per inch, or tighter grain. Tight grain means a higher concentration per square inch of wood sugars and flavor extractives that the spirit can reach as it travels into and out of the wood during aging. The sustainability piece is of course front of mind for us.

As a company that was founded to create a brighter future for our community, we take stewardship of this land seriously. We’re engaged with state foresters and loggers who sustainably, selectively harvest with the health of the forest in mind. The white oak population in this region is growing faster than it’s being harvested, by a significant margin, so

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managing the forests is quite important. And then here at our cooperage, we’re continuously improving, and one of our focuses has been maximizing the percentage of wood from each tree that goes into the barrel.

What are some other ways, specifically as it relates to production, that make your barrels stand out?

Our infrared toast—and the way we’re making it accessible to every distiller on every barrel— is probably our most exciting innovation. To see the difference between a non-toasted barrel and an infrared-toasted barrel in a headto-head comparison just after six months or a year—the color and flavor difference is pretty amazing. And more and more, distillers see the value of the infrared toast and ask for it specifically. But really our entire process is designed to build a barrel more precisely and consistently, which ultimately gives the distiller more control over their own process, and of course a tighter, better-performing barrel.

You have a connection to Smooth Ambler Spirits, right? Tell us a little more about that.

We have a founder in common, and a founding vision. Tinsley Azariah—better known as “TAG”—Galyean had a dream over a decade ago to create a really stellar product here in West Virginia that would be known around the world. It was meant to be an economic driver and bring tourism to the region, but it was also a way of creating a new narrative about Appalachia: the idea of “Appalachian Knowhow” and the combination of hard work, skill and integrity that goes into it. That was Smooth Ambler. We’re absolutely continuing that. But what’s interesting is that—because of the founders’ commitment to creating jobs that were safe in this community and because of this same commitment to making a really stellar product, we’re bringing a new level of technology and innovation—not just to West Virginia but to our entire industry. It’s not always what people expect when they visit a cooperage in West Virginia. But without a doubt we’re changing that expectation.

Are there any upcoming projects you’re excited about and are there any particular spirits-related trends you’re paying close attention to in 2022?

We’re seeing a lot of interest in toasted finishing barrels, some with specialty woods that our mill sources for us. Our first collaboration of this kind was with Smooth Ambler, naturally. It’s an Old Scout Toasted Barrel Finish Rye, and it’s on the market now. They

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just reached out for another round of toasted barrels the other day, so I’m excited to see how they’ll use these. We’re also working with Bardstown Bourbon Co. on a cherry/oak toasted barrel finish. They tested out a few bourbons and ryes and ultimately settled on a blend of six- and seven-year 95/5 Ryes. So far these projects have been true collaborations between our team and the distillers (and in the case of the Smooth Ambler project, a local liquor store collaborated as well).

Of course, regional sourcing of materials remains important to distillers, and we have a few distiller partners for whom we build barrels with white oak from particular states. We’re also seeing a lot of distillers playing around with toast and char recipes that suit their climate, in addition to mash bill and desired flavor profile. For me, these are some of the most rewarding aspects of my job. There’s an incredible spirit of generosity and collaboration in this industry, and we’re here for it. ■

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closing time

SPIRITS LEADING OFF-PREMISE GROWTH While sales of all alcoholic beverages for off-premise consumption made gains when comparing 2021 against 2019 (aka, before the pandemic), spirits grew the most, according to NielsenIQ. Spirits were also the only category that rose from 2020 to 2021, albeit slightly.

Dollar percent change vs. year ago and two years ago 2021 vs. 2020

SPIRITS

WINE

BEER/FMB/CIDER

15.8%

-2.7%

11.8%

-3.4%

13.6%

-4.9%

28.7%

1%

2021 vs. 2019

TOTAL ALCOHOL

Source: NielsenIQ Scan Off-Premise Channels, 52 weeks ending 1/8/2022

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C R AF T S PI R I T S MAG .CO M

THERE IS

STRENGTH IN MEMBERS

The American Craft Spirits Association (ACSA) is the only national association of craft distillers created and governed by craft distillers.

Our mission is to elevate and advocate for the community of craft spirits producers.

WHY JOIN? •

Build long-term relationships and enhance industry connections

•

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TAKE ADVANTAGE OF MEMBERSHIP ONLY OPPORTUNITIES BY

JOINING TODAY! A: P.O. Box 470, Oakton, VA, 22124 E: membership@americancraftspirits.org W: americancraftspirits.org

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Quench your thirst for knowledge in ACSA’s Craft Spirits Classroom.

For more information or to register, visit our website at https://americancraftspirits.org/education/webinars

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