jeans_database

J

AMFi

16

B1

Ei

se ba

Data s n ea

List of Contents

Introduction Brands € Only (P. 5-6) Cheap Monday (P. 7-8) Jack & Jones (P. 9-10) Mud (P. 11-12) PME Legend (P. 13-14) Levi’s Red Tab (P. 15-16) Lee (P. 17-18) Guess (P. 19-20) Gsus (P. 21-22) Diesel (P. 23-24) Vinginio (P. 25-26) Nudie (P. 27-28) G-Star Raw (P. 29-30) Scotch & Soda Blue (P. 31-32) Denham (P. 33-34) Acne Studios (P. 35-36) Paige (P. 37-38) Armani Jeans (P. 39-40) Kapital Jeans (P. 41-42) Momotaro (P. 43-44) RRL (P. 45-46) Dsquared2 (P. 47-48)

Colophon Conclusion Source list

(P. 49-50) (P. 51-59) (P. 01-02)

A-Z Acne Studios Armani Jeans Cheap Monday Denham Diesel Dsqared2 G-Star Raw Gsus Guess Jack & Jones Kapital Jeans Kings of Indigo Lee Levi’s Red Tab Momotaro Mud Nudie Only Paige PME Legend RRL Scotch & Soda Blue Vinginio

Country Denmark Jack & Jones Only Italy Armani Jeans Diesel Dsqared2 Vinginio Japan Kapital Jeans Momotaro Netherlands Denham G-Star Raw Gsus Mud PME Legend Scotch & Soda Blue Kings of Indigo Sweden Acne Studios Cheap Monday Nudie USA Guess Lee Levi’s Red Tab Paige RRL

Colophon

01

Editing

Deadline planning

Olivier Franken Brandi Jenna LaCertosa Sarah Friedman Anouk Brouwer Maxime van Namen

Leila Arato Claire Pisters

Layout

Jess Powell Emma Wendt Agnes Privat Profil

Roy Doron Branco Rqlm Blanca Heise Anna-Liisa Talts Marjolijn Oostermeijer Simone Ching

Mock up brand analyses

Structure Sofia Gerung Katharina Uhe Anna Ratkai

Conclusion

Brandi Jenna LaCertosa Marjolijn Oostermeijer

Introduction

03

Your next-door neighbor, your grandmother, your grandchild, the President of the United Stated of America, you. Jeans have played a hugely important role in almost everyone’s life at one moment or another. No other fabric in the world has influenced the fashion world and our lives more. Everyday, billions of people put on their pair of jeans.

This essential daily activity is not only a way of saying who you are, but it expresses history and heritage as well. Who could have known that an entire industry would evolve around this one article of clothing? Today, the denim industry has an estimated value of $60 billion in the global retail market.

Jeans have many relevant qualities. They are versatile, durable, warm and easy to work with. Denim is a tremendous influencer in the fashion world. It is a staple garment shared by billions of people without regards to age, gender, religion, lifestyle or cultural preferences.

The first people wearing denim were the workmen of the 1800’s, primarily because of the product’s durability and firm texture. During the 1940’s, fewer jeans were made due to World War II and a lack of demand. Soon thereafter however, American soldiers reintroduced jeans by wearing them when they were off duty as a casual, comfortable clothing item.

Jeans became very popular among young people in the 1950’s. The jeans market then developed quickly during the 60’s and 70’s when manufacturers started to produce different styles. All these experimental denim styles were essential for the development of the fashion and culture scene at the time.

During the 1980’s, jeans became high fashion, thanks to influential designers like Gucci. From that moment on jeans could be considered fashionable rather than a workers fabric. Jeans became significantly more popular to own and denim sales were thriving. More variants were being created at this time. The trend for flare jeans were discarded and the slim fit started to appear: the super skinny jeans.

During the 90’s and 2000’s, jeans became an important part of the fashion industry, but above all, a whole new market arose around denim.

Today many branding strategies are used to differentiate denim brands from others and the fashion world would not be the same without the remarkable denim development.

This book gives the reader an organized brief, based on profound analyses of 25 jeans brands that our team has carried out. It is relevant for anyone that is looking to understand how major denim brands think and act in the current competitive denim market. One will be able to read understand the different brands’ behaviors in the jeans market.

Important questions as to how, why, and what decisions jeans brands are taking today, in accordance with the 7 P’s of retail marketing are also addressed. The in depth brand analyses will enable every reader to understand the respective branding strategies. Our team analyzed the 25 brands in terms of their history, identity, strategies, market positioning, communication tools, retail environment, target market, user group, as well as their public image.

The first part of the introduction gives a fundamental overview of the jeans market and its history. The book was made for the reader to easily compare alternative denim brands and understand different ways of analysis through comparing the various brands. The analyses were determined based on price, the brands’ popularity and their importance in the jeans market.

The book is structured along the price range segments of the brands, from low to high. Within that structure, the 25 brands were ordered alphabetically. This structure was chosen as it provides its readers a useful overview and gives them the opportunity to relevantly compare the manifold brands and to better understand the dynamics of the current global jeans market as a whole.

Only

Affordable Trendy Comfortable €20 - €80 Denmark, 1995

05

Birth

Blood

Back in 1975 Troels Holch Povlsen began the company BESTSELLER in Denmark. His goal was creating affordable fashion for a wide audience, ranging from men, women, teenagers and children. Till this day the company is still family owned, and expresses that family and sustainability are most important values to the brand. At the moment the company owns over 20 individual fashion brands.

BESTSELLER introduced ONLY in 1995 and the brand opened their first store in 1997. ONLY was created to provide the teenage girl with trendy and affordable options, holding on to the core values of the holding company.

Known for its great fits and good price and quality rate ONLY is a brand that would be recommended when looking for affordable jeans. The approachable brand has a low price segment, with prices ranging from €20.00 - €80.00.

The collection spectrum is large. It ranges from t-shirts, dresses and accessories to denim. ONLY creates products that do not conform to one style their product assortment is broad. You can find all types of finishes, from a normal indigo blue jean to a bleached boyfriend jean with rips.

ONLY has created two extra clothing lines inside the brand.

ONLY PLAY was created to provide a sports line, the designs are trend following and thus fit perfectly with the image ONLY wants to create. JACQUELINE de JONG is a line that is even more affordable, with a laid-back attitude, giving the consumer the ability to change their wardrobe regularly.

The recognizable branding ONLY reoccurs in their jeans but also on all of their other products. The simple logo is always stamped on the inside of the jean. The higher priced jeans have a small leather patch on the outside with the logo pressed into it. All buttons are branded with the logo.

Heart and soul ONLY believes good fits and trendy fashion should be accessible, wanting to give every girl the possibility to be stylish, experiment with looks and feel comfortable. They want to achieve this by creating trendy garments that are affordable. Rather then confirming to one style the brand is focused on their denim. ONLY perceives themselves as a trendy, unique, and creative brand, they believes they have a modern identity. They represent themselves as a brand with a mature twist and a focus on feminine strength, selfconfidence and style.

So this is what differentiates them from other brands. ONLY does not bind themselves to a fixed style giving them the opportunity to try to follow the latest trends whilst being reasonably priced.

Skin

In the mirror

The international fashion brand ONLY is distributed in over 300 stores all over Europe and the Middle East. The product assortment is sold in both retail and online sale.

ONLY chooses the locations for their stores carefully. Often they are placed in busy area’s, such as for example the Kalverstraat in Amsterdam and the Oudegracht in Utrecht.

These places are mostly visited by the mainstream shopper.

The retail environment conveys a modern and youthful feeling. This is created by the use of light colors and reflecting materials such as mirrors and disco balls. Even though the brand has tried to keep a clean retail environment, the store is overwhelming and overflowing with products.

The products are easy accessible and sizes range from XS to XL. Without having to ask the staff, products can easily be found by individuals, essentially no help is needed in finding the correct size or color.

Only target the trendy teenage girl, aged from 13 to 20 with fashion as her passion. She is a student who has to keep within a budget. It is this trendy, unique and creative girl that is ONLY’s target group.

The user group does not necessarily reconcile with the target group. Yes, it is true that the audience that is attracted to ONLY can be seen as the teenage girl, but rather than being described as passionate about fashion and being unique she is trend following and blends in to the stereotype teenage girl.

Unique and creative, are not the terms people outside of the target group would use to describe ONLY. Rather than that many perceive the brand as simple, plain and trend following. This contradicts what the brand is trying to portray and believe the brand is attached to a more safe look than a unique one. Because the brand is not focussed on a style they have lost a part of their originality.

Brain The communication channels that are used by ONLY variate.

They use social media such as Facebook and Instagram along side their website, app and advertisements. The brand wants to keep up with their young audience and convey their modern and trendy way of thinking by the communication they use. This does not always work out properly since they are not always up to date with the latests apps and upcoming social media sites their young audience uses.

Minimal, simple designs and light colors are used throughout the visual language, that can be seen online as well as offline. This white base is used to apply any trend, style or look. Even though the design is not the most unique and creative it is always recognizable and easy accessible.

The recognizable branding of ONLY all concurs, yet the modernity does not immediately transfer to the image ONLY want to convey. The logo and typo are simple and minimal, not immediately giving off a fashionable and trendy feeling.

The trendy and friendly voice ONLY takes on fits the brand.

Consumers are spoken to in an easy going, modern and fun manner. Creating the feeling that you are talking to one of your friends. This works with the young audience they are targeting. The staff in the store is there to help you find the right sizes and fits. Most of the employees are women in basic styles from the brand itself. They are not particularly knowledgeable about the brand, but are able to help you finding certain items or styles.

CHEAP MONDAY

Independent Rebellious Idiosyncratic €50-€90 Sweden, 2004

07

Birth

Blood

Cheap Monday is a Swedish jeans brand, founded in 2004 by Örjan Andersson and Adam Friber in Stockholm. Originally the brand was exclusively sold in Örjan and Adam’s second hand store called Weekday. The name of the brand, Cheap Monday, refers to spending all your money on the weekend, so you could only “buy cheap jeans on Monday at Weekday”.

In 2008, Cheap Monday (together with weekday) was acquired by the H&M Group, by the purchase of the umbrella fashion firm ‘FaBric Scandinavien’.

Typical Cheap Monday’s jeans are best illustrated by their “Tight” jeans, their originally singular model of jeans. To keep these jeans at a competitively low selling price, the jeans are unwashed, unharmed and produced with (the most inexpensive) raw denim that could be supplied. An extreme unisex skinny fit allowed a minimum use of fabric.

Only 5 pockets, 5 belt loops are attached, and only 2 rivets are required during production. Branding elements include the button, and a (fake-)leather patch with a print of the skull-icon and extended logo.

Heart and soul Cheap Monday’s vision and mission are focused on being atypical trend-aware and inexpensive. Örjan Andersson states in an interview with L’Express France; “In 2004 the thing was trendy Californian jeans brands (in 2004); premium and expensive. We wanted to go against the stream of this trend by launching a cheap brand of jeans.”.

Their original mission could be derived from this and formulated as “Creating an accessible jeans brand, that goes against industry standards”. The disobedient tone that they attempt to create is recognized in their tagline: “Over My Dead Body”, which on their website is referred to as “an homage to Grunge”. The brand strives to express an idiosyncratic tone of voice, and rebellious personality. Not taking themselves too serious, is very serious business at Cheap Monday.

Since the acquirement by H&M, they have extended the range of their jeans collections with more elaborate jeans; jeans with a high-range of whiskers, washes, larger fits, and different colors that suit the unsaturated and rebellious identity of the brand. All jeans have the same button, patch, and a maximum of 5 pockets. High volume production allows all jeans to sell at the same price of ±€50. Since 2011 they have also been producing a seasonal collection of 24 looks, with basic apparel (shirts, t-shirts, sweatshirts) and accessories (sunglasses, bracelets, necklaces), supplied with seasonal washes from their core collection.

Skin

Skin

Their distribution strategy mainly depends on wholesale, with an offline and online presence. The brand’s headquarters are located in Sweden, mainly operating their European distribution with few additional selling points in China. Wholesale is the primary point of sale for the brand.

Weekday (also acquired by H&M and now operating as an independent jeans and apparel brand) sells the brand through most Scandinavian and other northern European countries. Urban outfitters is their largest distributor; taking the brand to stores throughout all major cities in Europe and the UK. The brand only runs 6 flagship stores, located in Copenhagen, Stockholm, London, Paris, Beijing and Shenyang. The two Chinese flagship stores are the only authorized sellers of Cheap Monday to date in Asian territories.

The retail spaces are designed in an industrial interior aesthetic. All jeans are displayed by piles on tables in the middle of the store, made of recycled wood boards and fencing. The room is low-lit by fluorescent tubes from the floor, to create a dark ambience that relaxes the consumer.

It allows the products to be emphasized easily by its richlyspaced factory. Dome pendant lights are hung from the ceiling. The industrial materials and the stacks of jeans create a raw accessibility; as if it just came from the factory and is freshly piled on the tables for the consumer to easily take their pair and leave. As the brand mainly relies on wholesale, the brand does have visual merchandising elements for retailers that would request displays though it is not compulsory by brand wholesale policy. This will include a table made of recycled wood-board and small plexiglass display with a laser cut out of the logo.

Their communication channels include an online store, a Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram page and a snapchat.

They attempt to characterize their brand as one with an informal attitude, by using urban-contemporary language in the social media copy writing. Posts displayed on these channels usually include a reposted image of a consumer wearing their products; these are always professionally taken photos, and in (mostly abandoned) urban areas taking part in leisure activities such as skating, dancing, or listening to music. These reoccurring themes of abandoned, industrial, and concrete environments with trespassing people wearing Cheap Monday give a clear visual demonstration of the characteristics that Cheap Monday wants to associate with their brand.

The color used in packaging and the brand’s logo are associate with values of passive rebellion. The logo of their brand, the skull with a distorted typeface of their brand name, is most commonly used in white on black tags and labels. The designer of the logo Bjorn Atldax stated that the inverse cross on the forehead of the skull was an indirect statement of rebellion against organized religion; religion is often blamed as a cause of war. The brand defended their logo as “ironic” in an interview with Fox news in 2005. When acquired by H&M, the cross was replaced as a simple line to avoid unnecessary provocations. The logo clearly represents the brand and its rebellious boundaries. The brand attempts to resemble the passive rebellion of the original grunge movement; not controversiality or provocation.

Brain Cheap Monday is inactive in traditional-media advertising.

Their brand products are advertised through billboards and through television ads done by their wholesale partners (Zalando, Urban Outfitters, Weekday, etc.). Their brand promotion strategy is focused on experience marketing, online and offline. Cheap Monday photo booths at indie festivals, 10 minute of free shopping pop-ups stores to launch campaigns or social media contents. They also partner with festivals and musical engineering companies (lowlands or teenage engineering) to enhance their reputation with their target audience.

In the mirror Cheap Monday has a relatively broad target audience, ranging from 18-25 year old students and independent adolescents. Their ideal customer is trend sensitive, with an individual attitude and style. They were the disobedient teenager, and now express their rebellion through creative fields or unaggressive acts of revolt. They keep up with trends through their music tastes, through alternative and indie content-creators on free-accessible formats such as Spotify and Soundcloud. They like to spend their money seeing new bands and musicians at festivals and concerts.

They keep up with style, fashion and pop culture through cheeky and defiant blogs such i-D magazine, Vice, Tank, and Dazed and Confused. Cheap Monday aims to serve this consumer, with easy accessibility and by branding themselves as actively going against-the-stream.

Jack & Jones Birth

Craftsmanship Innovation Sustainability €39, 95 - € 99,95 Denmark, 1989

Bestseller launched their young men’s brand in 1989, named Jack & Jones. The brand fits in with Bestsellers’ aim to provide women, men, teenagers and children with good quality clothing for affordable prices. These two characteristics formed the base when Troels Holch Povlsen opened his first shop mid-seventies eventually leading to the Danish holding company, Bestseller. Good quality clothing and affordable price still remain key. Nowadays Bestseller has grown into over 20 different brands including Jack & Jones.

Jeans have always been the backbone of the brand. Over the past couple of years, they have proven to be a major player in the jeans market.

Heart and soul Jack & Jones attaches great importance to the past and the future of denim. They believe the heritage of authentic jeans wear should be enriched, while respecting its history.

By investing time in researching innovative fabrics and experimenting with new techniques they aim to achieve high quality denim at a reasonable price point whilst keeping the environment in mind. Authenticity influences their new denim looks since they are inspired by vintage pieces. The vintage worn- in look is approached in an innovative way.

Innovation is essential when finding alternatives to traditional treatments and new stretch qualities. They aim to preserve the environment by implying their innovations and strict regulations for the factories they utilize. This results in sustainability being key.

They would like to be seen as an accessible, high- quality and affordable brand that keeps up with the latest male fashion trends. Jack & Jones’ personification would be young, laid-back and masculine.Most men could be placed into the five very different Jack & Jones brands. This differentiates them from brands with a very specific target group.

Combining different trends is made simple at Jack & Jones.

Their modernized designs of vintage jeans reflect current trends and offer Italian craftsmanship at a reasonable price.

Blood

09

Throughout the affordable Jack & Jones collections, in which fading often plays an important part, a coherent style is seen. Six different types of fit reoccur in each collection.

Their three innovative fabrics are a reoccurring factor as well. Super Stretch is an extremely flexible fabric for more comfort. Indigo Knit looks like denim, but it feels like knitted sweatpants. Ice Blast is a sustainable way of adding fading to jeans by using dry ice. To fade, scrape, break, stain or repair the jeans a combination of sustainable and unsustainable treatments is used. One of these sustainable alternatives is a laser treatment; the laser fades the jeans resulting in saving energy and manpower. 40% of Jack & Jones Jeans’ production takes place in Italy. This results in Italian craftsmanship, but offered at a Jack & Jones retail price.

They refer to this Italian denim with a special “designed and washed in Italy” hang tag.With their Jack & Jones’ Low Impact Denim- line they standout of the crowd. Recreating traditional denim treatments with new technologies has minimized the amount of water, energy and waste making these jeans more sustainable. They refer to this environmental friendly collection with “Low Impact Denim” hang tags. The back pockets of Jack & Jones jeans make the jeans recognizable do to the two curved lines.

Their jeans prices vary from €39, 95 to €99,95 placing Jack & Jones in the low segment.

Skin

Skin

Throughout the affordable Jack & Jones collections, in which fading often plays an important part, a coherent style is seen. Six different types of fit reoccur in each collection.

Their three innovative fabrics are a reoccurring factor as well. Super Stretch is an extremely flexible fabric for more comfort. Indigo Knit looks like denim, but it feels like knitted sweatpants. Ice Blast is a sustainable way of adding fading to jeans by using dry ice. To fade, scrape, break, stain or repair the jeans a combination of sustainable and unsustainable treatments is used. One of these sustainable alternatives is a laser treatment; the laser fades the jeans resulting in saving energy and manpower.

Their Scandinavian roots are visible in their simple black and white layouts. The same bold font connects their different communication channels. This boldness is also seen in their black and white Jack & Jones logo. Using the double J’s in the middle of their logo creates a recognizable factor.

The hang tags as well as the branding tags on the pieces all use the same font.

They employ men and women. The male staff is required to wear Jack & Jones pieces. It is expected from all staff that they know everything about the fits, innovative fabrics and treatments. They attend training evenings to achieve this expectation.

40% of Jack & Jones Jeans’ production takes place in Italy.

This results in Italian craftsmanship, but offered at a Jack & Jones retail price. They refer to this Italian denim with a special “designed and washed in Italy” hang tag.

In the mirror

With their Jack & Jones’ Low Impact Denim- line they standout of the crowd. Recreating traditional denim treatments with new technologies has minimized the amount of water, energy and waste making these jeans more sustainable.

They refer to this environmental friendly collection with “Low Impact Denim” hang tags.

The back pockets of Jack & Jones jeans make the jeans recognizable do to the two curved lines.

Their jeans prices vary from €39, 95 to €99,95 placing Jack & Jones in the low segment.

Brain Jack & Jones applies their identity to all their communication sources. Since Jack & Jones targets a broad group, a wide variation of male models is seen. The campaigns vary between the clothing lines as the clothing styles differ, but most shots are taken in an industrial setting.

Most of their communication takes place online. Jack & Jones is active on various social media for example on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter alongside these they write a blog which captures their latest collection, street style inspiration and interviews. The brand speaks to young men with their short sentences, simple vocabulary and cool phrases such as “trending” and “style on point”.

Jack & Jones crafts fashionable clothing for the young urban male between the age of 18 and 30. They divided their broad target group up into 5 brands to cater to the style needs of each young man. Jack & Jones Vintage Clothing targets the masculine man who values authentic jeans wear.

Jack & Jones Premium offers high-quality pieces for men with a classic, yet contemporary style. Jack & Jones Originals is inspired by indie- and urban pop culture and is suitable for hip men who are creative in their styling. Jack & Jones Core fits men with an urban and active life due to its utility street wear style. Jack & Jones Tech avoids compromising on style and fashion with their functional and sporty inspired pieces.

Jack & Jones appeals to a large group of men due to their multiple brands, but they do not appeal to the highly fashion conscious buyer they target. Since it is an affordable brand it is popular with a younger clientele. On the other hand, it also appeals to 30 and over because often they like to play it safe.

They are not perceived as a brand that offers highly fashionable clothing. For the latest trends the public does not believe it is the place to go. It is seen as a quality jeans brand at affordable prices with easy to combine clothing pieces.

Mud Jeans

Sustainable Fashionable Affordable €100 Amsterdam, 2013

11

Birth

Blood

MUD Jeans is an Amsterdam based brand, founded in 2008 by Bert van Son. He introduced the business model “Lease A Jeans” in January 2013 after moving to China and seeing the impact of fast fashion on the environment and the factory workers. The purpose of this concept is to allow customers to shop guilt free and do good for the environment, while still being fashionable and modern. The brand has won multiple awards for sustainability, such as the Sustainability Leadership Award and the Peta Vegan Awards. It is also the only brand that works completely according to the principles of the circular economy.

Although the designs of the jeans do not stand out, they are fashionable and modern. There are multiple options in fits and the jeans are available in different colors. They stay up-to-date by adding fits that are according to the trends.

However, what characterizes the jeans and makes them special are the material being used and the finishes. The jeans are almost always made out of 100% BCI certified cotton. The fabric is produced by premium denim mills from the Mediterranean. This shows the involvement with sustainability and fair trade. What really makes this brand unique is their business model. MUD Jeans is the only brand that works completely according to the principles of the circular economy as mentioned before. The jeans are recognizable by a fake-leather patch and a white paint logo print in the back of the waistband. The design by of the jeans itself are not particularly distinctive by model or styles.

The packaging of the jeans also aids the circular model. It is called Re-Pack; the packaging is sent back whether you keep the jeans or not. All by products of the jeans are recycled, which stays true to MUD Jeans’ environmental mission. All jeans sell for around €100, so MUD Jeans belongs to the low segment.

Heart and soul Sustainability and quality, while being fashionable and affordable are the most important values of MUD Jeans.

Their ultimate objective is to create circular (cradle to cradle) carbon neutral jeans, made out of 100% cotton on a scale that is commercially and aesthetically feasible. It wants to reach this with a simple, yet innovative approach.

The brand wants to be sustainable by focusing on sharing, re-usage and the circular fashion model. It is clear that MUD Jeans cares about the environment, but it does not want to be perceived as solely an environmentalist. It wants to show that it is a young and cool brand as well.

The brand tries to separate itself from the average reserved sustainability brand by being more edgy and contemporary in their approach. Because this is important to reach their target group. You can notice this in their collaborations, for example the StayOkay hostel in the center of Utrecht. The combination of their clean design interior and sustainability fits MUD Jeans perfectly. It is also trying to stay young by doing interviews with students from all over the globe.

Skin

Skin

MUD Jeans distributes their products both online and offline. They have their own pop-up stores in Europe, in the Netherlands, Belgium and Germany. Examples are GeitenWollen Winkel and Eerlijk Waar! in Amsterdam. Their stores are in shopping streets in the centre of Amsterdam, remotely located from the high street. This way you have more customers who know what your brand or store is about and thus more customers that fit the target group.

MUD Jeans does not have a distinctive retail environment, because it does not have its own stores and the style differs per concept store. What the concept stores do have in common are the fact that they are fashionable but more importantly that they are involved with sustainability.

Online they have the shop on their own website and they sell on various shopping sites. The shopping sites are not the big ones such as Zalando but are smaller, more unknown sites that value sustainability and select the brands that are being sold based on that value.

However, the packaging can be seen as a part of the unique selling point for MUD Jeans, since you return the packaging whether you keep the purchased item or not.

This contributes to its aim of recycling as much as possible and thus having as less waste as possible.

Brain MUD Jeans does not use traditional communication channels like commercials on television or magazine advertisements.

As a start-up, the brand did not have a big budget for huge marketing campaigns. The brand has only one campaign from 2013 and one from the DRY MUD project. The brand does have Instagram and Facebook. It uses social media to show its actions regarding sustainability and their values.

Their social media accounts have a light, natural and optimistic vibe. Mostly, MUD Jeans uses viral marketing, it relies on articles or items from outside regarding its circular approach for example.

MUD Jeans communicates their brand identity straightforward and informative. The website is clean and simplistic with a light lay-out which makes sure that it stays modern and contemporary. The typography that is used is very simple and clear. The logo of MUD Jeans is black and white, recognizable and easy to understand. The circle represents the circular way of working and the letters in the logo even spell it out for you. By using a clean and simplistic lay-out for their website and light, natural images on their social media they create a modern visual identity, which is appealing to their target group.

The packaging does not match the visual identity. They use the color yellow, which is very bright.

In the mirror The target group of MUD Jeans are aged 30 - 50, who are in touch with current affairs of the world. However, this is in contrast with the bloggers that they collaborate with. These are people in their twenties who are conscious, but who primarily care to look fashionable. This more younger target group fits the brand better because of their quite trendy fits and their collaborations. The target group enjoys city trips.

MUD Jeans is responding to this by publishing “City Stories� on their website and doing collaborations such as the one with the sustainable design StayOkay hostel in the center of Utrecht. The people also live in big cities themselves, close to where the MUD Jeans stores are located.

The user group consist of people who are involved with living a sustainable lifestyle. What was surprising for the brand is that they are very popular amongst vegans since they do not use any leather in their products. This opens up an additional customer base without their first intentions being a vegan brand.

The brand is being perceived as sustainable, innovative (because of their circular approach) and fashionable by the public. There are many positive reactions to the brand, especially their way of working. There were also positive reactions to the material that is used, it is different because most people are used to more stretch but this materials extends the lifetime of the jeans.

PME Legend

Sturdy Comfortable Functional €50.00 - €150,00 Netherlands, 1992

13

Birth

Blood

PME Legend (Pall Mall Exports Legend) was founded by Dutch fashion chain Just Brands in 1992.

The PME brand concept is based on denim and casual wear inspired by American aviation gear. Just Brands is the name of the design, logistics, marketing & sales organization behind PME Legend, together with the Vanguard, Tripper Jeans and Cast Iron Jeans brands.

Throughout the last 15 years PME Legend has grown to become one of the top casual jeans wear brands for men in the Benelux (Belgium, Netherlands and Luxembourg), with more than 1500 stores.

The collections are inspired by American aviation and are designed with a durable material, in a functional fit, aiming to achieve the comfortability of a pilot uniform. The collections are inspired by the heavy, extreme conditions of the Air Force routes. During those early years of the airplane, jeans quickly became a suitable garment. The rough sturdy material was perfect for the demanding lifestyle of adventurous pilots.

Every collection of PME Legend includes jeans, tops, jackets and belts. Comfortable, rugged fabrics are used troughout all the seasons. The denim designs are described by the brand as ‘classic and playful’. The Commander jeans, the brand’s best selling denim, is presented in a sturdy and masculine way in the brand adverts (billboards, in-store posters, in-store videos, and a 3 episode online series).

Currently The Commander, sold in four different colors and four sizes, is among one of the most successful jeans of the brand in the past 10 years, together with the Skyhawk stretch-jeans.

Their size range is another distinctive element of the brand, as it goes up to size XXXL. PME prices vary from €50 to €150, which puts them in the middle segment of denim brands.

Heart and soul PME Legend sees a fine connection between the aviation industry and the fashion industry, creating a concept based on shared values and details inspired by the US Air Force.

Their mission, as described by the brand, is to “Manufacture to last, and tailor for comfort”. They set a high standard for their products and image in terms of quality, durability, comfort and communication upon a specific style and inspiration source.

According to the Creative Director of PME, Frank Den Boogaard, the brand creates wearable and rugged collections for real men. The ‘real PME Legend man’ is strong and determined, like an Air Force pilot. The pilot has to adapt to extreme situations he encounters, and therefore needs comfortable wear. This philosophy is clearly reflected in the collections based on their core values: un-compromised comfort, build to last, function and flexibility. The Identity of PME stays true to its Air Force identity within urban wear.

Skin

Skin

PME Legend is sold in over 1500 stores in The Netherlands.

Belgium and Luxemburg, in their own brand stores, as a part of the ‘Just Brands’ stores, and in Dutch department store, De Bijenkorf.

PME Legend captures the Air Force feeling in their retail environments, which were designed as an airplane hangar, with enormous aircraft propellers hanging from a high industrial with enormous aircraft propellers hanged from a high industrial ceiling - the store design communicates a sturdy and masculine environment.

In 2011 Just Brands decided the time had come to set up an e-commerce business, starting with a PME Legend online store. They also launched a stylish Just Brands lounge, another retail environment designed with aircraft propellers, a vintage gas station and American bikes, to remind us of the brands’ authentic American roots. In their stores, the products are displayed by garment type, with dark colors and a metallic furniture setting, as in an aircraft hangar.

Their aim is to create the world of the tough army pilot, and to evoke this mood in the consumer mind.

In 2015 PME Legend launched a brand app for iPhone/iPad users in order to achieve higher conversion and broader engagement with their customers. Since then, the iPad conversion has increased, and the app took over the desktop site, which is now performing 400% better than the mobile site. For PME Legend, the app is a new channel that adds significantly to the total revenue.

The Branding elements, like jacket zippers and buttons, are inspired by and designed in the American Army style.

The visual presentation is shows a lot of black and yellow, which emphasizes the powerful attitude of the brand, and connects to aviation as well. They use these colors in their store windows, signs, packaging and garment tags.

The overall mood of the brand is the American comfort, presented in quality garments and a visually bold attitude.

Their typography is based on a bold basic font with a rough finishing. The logo displays the wings of an eagle, which shows cates power and symbolizes the wings of the pilot.

Brain PME uses their brand app and social media as their key communication channels. They communicate the brand identity based on American aviation and the pilot look, through their visual presentation of iconic propliners and Air Force gear images on instagram and Facebook, as well to store promotion. Though PME creates only collections for men, the store staff mainly consist of women, who are active in the customer buying process. The thought behind this, is to balance yet emphasise, together with the tough pilot posters and army gear, the masculine dominance of the brand’s identity. Collection photoshoots of the brand are shot in the AMARC area of the U.S. Air Force in Tucson, Arizona, to give an extra dimension to the real American identity. Online activity is mainly in done in English, even though they are selling to the Dutch market.

In the mirror PME Legend approaches mid-high income earnering men, from the age of 25 to 40, described by the brand as active, urbanmen who are adventurous. Tribe description could connect to the modern man with his own identity, strong urban men who are adventurous. This tribe description could connect to the modern man with his own identity, a strong personality and someone who is not afraid to take challenges. This man is looking for elegance, comfort and function in his wear.

Their latest collection was made to reach a new, slightly younger target group, which consisted of slim-fit jeans with a more contemporary look and feel, and special artworks.

The Identity of PME still stays true to its Air Force identity within urban wear, which engages with tribes that are connected to the casual army look or the classic American denim style.

The public perception of PME Legend is as a high quality for price denim brand, that is inspired by the Air Force and communicates a rough-tough American man style to the level some consumers perceive it as an American brand.

Levi’s Red Tab

Emphatic Innovative Authentic €55 - €170 USA, 1853

15

Birth

Blood

One of today’s most well-known jeans brands, Levi’s, was established in 1853. Levi Strauss, after whom the brand was named, started a dry good business in San Francisco selling clothes and boots to small retail stores. The most memorable invention took place after Jacob Davis became partner of the company. Combining their skills, the first blue jeans were born in 1873. As a result of this invention, the brand can be called the father of the blue jeans. Despite the fact that Levi’s already earned their place in history due to their jeans invention, they have never stopped innovating.

Due to the fact that their jeans vary from €55 - €170 Levi’s is placed in the mid market segment. The products that are sold often refer to the heritage of the brand, since many recognizable classic fits are reproduced as modern versions.

Levi’s jeans are made of 100% better cotton, using more socially, environmentally and financially sustainable practices. Collections as Water<Less and Waste<Less are the realization of these standards. The choice of these materials make the products unique, but the most important aspect that makes the jeans stand out is definitely Levi’s branding. The finishing of the back pocket, two curved lines that are connected at the middle, distinguishes Levi’s identity instantly.

However, the first branding of Levi’s was already established in 1886; namely the two horse logo on the leather patch of the 501 jeans. Levi’s iconic Red Tab was introduced in 1936. Both have developed into key symbols and are indispensable when thinking of Levi’s. Further details such as buttons and hang tags add to the complete value of their branding.

Heart and soul These innovations are a result of the brand relating to their community. Empathy makes them listen and respond to the needs of their customers, stakeholders and employees. The brand represents them by standing by their convictions and what they believe. In telling the truth and in being transparent to their consumer they express their integrity.

These aspects are both important along with originality.

Since being creative, authentic and innovative brought Levi’s to where they are nowadays.

Levi’s believes they are the embodiment of the energy and events of our times.

They aim to inspire people with a pioneering spirit, aim for ethical business and aim for a safe and productive working environment. They are characterized by open communication, personal accountability and by growth and development opportunities.

The American heritage of the brand is what sets them apart from other brands. This heritage makes that the brand is known by all generations: their consistently good reputation over all those years has created a trustworthy brand that a lot of people can appreciate. Also the fit and quality of the jeans are aspects in which Levi’s differentiates themselves.

Especially in comparing price to quality, they are far less expensive compared to other heritage brands.

Levi’s brand personality is hip, young, fit and popular.

Skin Their branding is also clearly seen in their stores. The atmosphere breathes Levi’s since they display a combination of an urban, an industrial and a rural environment. The heritage of the brand comes forward in the details of their store such as an old sewing machine, the American flag and leather strips that relate back to the Levi’s wearing cowboy.

The laid- back mood of the stores makes them accessible and inviting to come in when walking by.

This accessibility is also reflected in the size range. Every piece of the collection is available in many sizes and these are visible in the store. The locations of the stores also contribute to this, since the Levi’s stores can be found in cities all over the world. The brand uses retail stores which are mostly located on the high streets. All of their products are also sold via the online web shop which makes the brand easy to reach for everyone.

Brain Their online environment also plays a great part in Levi’s advertising. The brand is very accurate and modern with the use of social media. Due to their Twitter, Facebook and Instagram, which are all updated on a daily basis, they reach millions of people. By using Youtube, Levi’s is able to speak to their followers on a more emotional level, making the brand easy to identify with. Identifying with their latest campaign is easy too. ‘We are 501’ is about denim authority and about connecting the brand and the people who wear them. In addition to the imagery and video, the brand collaborates with artists like French music producer, writer and model Caroline de Maigret, American DJ duo Classixx, and Chinese multimedia artist Yi Zhou. Employees are also included in this campaign, showing how much Levi’s values their employees as well as showing their importance as a part of the brand.

Taking care of their employees is of great importance to Levi’s which in return has a positive effect on the employees.

The staff in the stores are visibly passionate about Levi’s and know a lot of background information about the brand out of their own interest. They have a friendly and approachable appearance and are willing to help you with finding your perfect jeans. The clothing they wear is from

Levi’s and bought by themselves. The employees are all in their mid- twenties and therefore they are identifiable with the Levi’s target group.

To adapt to this age group Levi’s tone of voice is direct, easy to understand and youthful, by using words that are trendy amongst this group. Their typography does not immediately relate to a youthful style, but is rather clean and minimal only using black, grey, white and red. The typography of the logo differs from their normal typography. It is bolder and a bit more playful. The shape of the logo corresponds with the shape of the back pockets of a Levi’s jeans.

In the mirror The current image of Levi’s is a very well polished advertised product with emphasis on the younger generation.

They focus on people in their twenties, a target group which is able to buy jeans from the midmarket range. They are independent, adventurous, self- conscious and know what they want to achieve. Their lifestyles vary from young creative professionals to bohemians and music makers. They do all have something in common. They care about their appearance and about being fashionable.

Levi’s user group resembles their target group. The user group is definitely fashion minded in a hip and sporty way.

They are able to afford a Levi’s jeans and attach value to the name of the brand. They can identify themselves with the campaigns of Levi’s, but in a less outspoken way. Diverting from the target group are the buyers under 20 years old.

Young students or pupils who are in their final years of high school often wear Levi’s too.

Levi’s is perceived as a quality brand with long lasting jeans that have a great fit. The heritage of the brand makes them special and stand out from others.

Lee

Heritage Comfort Quality €60-€200 US, 1889

17

Birth

Blood

Lee Jeans originated as a wholesale grocery store named H.D. Mercantile eponymous after his founder Henry David Lee. In 1912, he established his first clothing manufacture in Saline, Kansas, after being dissatisfied with the current quality of apparel. Since then, Lee became the benefactor of high quality and innovative workwear, while being UN primary workwear manufacturer.

Specifically, in the 1920s, Lee became well-known for their Union-All workwear jumpsuit and their development of the zipper fly, the modern replacement method of buttons.

During 1950s, Lee expanded into casual clothes, noticing the need of improving the society. Since 1969, they have been a member of the VF Corporation, one of the biggest apparel and denim holding company, which enabled Lee to remain a part of the industry.

“We make jeans to fit everyone, and that includes you” is Lee’s philosophy that speaks for diversity. While offering almost all types of fits: from skinny to boot cut, from size 24 to size 32, from moon washed to indigo blue, Lee’s denim styles offer possibilities for everyone. Furthermore, their design reflects their belief that denim is all about the fit and comfort. However, their current Lee 101 collection is the restoration of the most iconic pieces, mainly based on their heritage and tradition, hence showing the integrity of their values. Lee’s branding element is expressed in the leatherstitched back pocket of the jeans as fabric logo of the name itself. The font of the logo is always adapted to the specific model with an eye for detail. For instance, the thicker and darker letters on the logo would correspond to the men’s jeans, while thiner and smaller letters would be dedicated to women. In order to follow the fashion, Lee keeps developing innovative fabrics. Their high quality is maintained by selling Japanese denim at the premium prices. Since 1950s, Lee has been establishing in the apparel and denim sector following by their product expansion. Lee’s product price range starts from €80.00 up to €200.00 whereas they positioned themselves in the low and mid market.

Heart and soul Heritage, Comfort and Quality are the main characteristics that Lee embodies and values after more than 100 years of denim expertise. It is reasonable that they see their main purpose in creating highly comfortable clothes for each occasion and considering their belief in comfort as everything.

Nevertheless, their innovative material use, rich heritage and their social responsibility helps the brand to distinguish themselves from their competitors and provides them with their unique selling point. Moreover, they celebrate National Lee Denim Day by donating money for Americans with cancer.

Overall, it can be said that Lee’s identity is shaped by their origin as one of the oldest existing denim brands, providing them with the familiar old grandfather image that conveys knowledge and experience in a trustworthy way.

Skin Lee Jeans is the archetype for the typical everyman, offering comfortable jeans that will fit everyone. In addition, they are following a distribution strategy that aims the mass market, which is reached by over 865 retailers worldwide and E- Commerce in 12 countries. Thus, it is important to highlight that Lee is working with country-specific distribution methods. In the US, they are only selling at retail stores, such as Walmart, Kmarkt and shopko. Not having any flagship stores speaks as an adaptation to the buying behavior of the US average citizen.

In Europe, Lee is putting more effort in creating flagship stores, placing them in forthcoming areas in order to reach the more hip, young and stylish buyer. Their Amsterdambased flagship store is located at Wolvenstraat, part of the De 9 Straatjes, a well-known, but also niche shopping area.

In that store, the interior design reveals American heritage, masculinity and rawness in a familiar and close way. Key design elements, such as unfinished brick walls, metal storage systems, dark mahogany wooden floor scattered with the placement of vintage furniture and framed images of the founder H.D. Lee, they visualize their origin history in an authentic way. The products are displayed in a clean and structured order. From size small to extra large, depending on availability, the customer has the option to find the desirable piece in the right size. Iconic jeans fits are hanged on hooks, which are easier to take off. They are labelled with the style name and a short description to give the customer a little advice. Overall, the store represents an actual mass market brand in a more niche way, where they want to convey a familiar and intimate atmosphere stylized in an old-school american heritage look.

Brain Lee approaches an overall presence when it comes to communication channels. Despite of being one of top brand for over 80 years, Lee finally reached its bottom rock sale.

In the 1990s competition in the jeans market grew, and the idea of comfort was no longer a strong selling factor.

Fashion-concious youths and young adults, accounted for a large portion of denim sales, demanded jeans that upgraded their life status. Consequently, they started a re-branding by targeting aspirational crowd, who became significant in society - teenagers. Afterwards, Lee focused more closely in communication strategy. Nowadays, Lee’s marketing relies on social media, such as: Instagram, Facebook,

Youtube channel, customer integrated advertisement campaigns (#moveyourlee), in which the community has an opportunity to share their Lee experience. Lee is aiming for a intimate brand customer relationship that encourages you to show your personality. With slogans such as Be Yourself. 100% or the A Lee is You., they are guiding their tone of voice in a direction that is attractive, but personality focused. In general, Lee Europe focuses on peer-to-peer communication, in which people have more freedom of their expression, whereas in the US, Lee remained as the adult brand for the perfect husband and wife. This is visible through their current LeeWomen and LeeMen campaign where they use more humorous and playful tone of voice rather than a cool one. Lee’s representatives try to attract customers with their knowledge of the fabric and the fit of various denim styles. They play role of a friend rather than sales advisor. Lee’s promotion addresses their aspirational target groups, however, it reaches everyone.

In the mirror Due to the various brand awareness of Lee, they decided to target country-oriented target groups, best exemplified on US and Europe. In the US, Lee’s aspirational target audience is a perfect housewife between 30 to 50. She is able to manage family, friends and work all at once. Her buying behavior is rather quantity oriented than frequently to be more time saving. Nevertheless, the major user group looks different. The evaluation of social media or customer reviews reveals that in fact more elder people shop Lee, people who are familiar with the brand and buy the same pair of jeans for years . On contrary, in Europe, Lee’s aspirational target group is defined as the hip, young enjoyer. Man or woman who is between 20-35, living in capital cities, being socially well-integrated. They share a love for the casual everyday clothing, practical but stylish. Their shopping behavior is more unpredictable - when they see something they like the will buy it. However, the price has to fit in their budget.

Coming from various professions, it is their unburdened lifestyle that connect them. In Europe Lee is less connected with the heritage vibe, yet Lee is worn by general public. The user group starts at the age of 13 and goes up to 80, which is a very broad market.

In conclusion, it became obvious that Lee is putting more effort in their communication strategies, though they have not created a recognitizable brand image that is more connected to a specific target group.

Guess

Sexy Extravagant Daring €80 - €200 USA, 1981

19

Birth

Blood

Guess, founded in 1981 Los Angeles, by brothers Paul and Maurice Marciano, is an American clothing brand and retailer, distributing collections of apparel and accessories for women, men, and children. The brothers’ vision was to make jeans similar to the ones women were wearing in St.Tropez. Reviving the 80s dead denim market, they succeeded in reaching €10.60 million in just one year. This pushed them to selling a 51% stake in Guess to the Nakash brothers in 1983. By the end of the 1980s, Guess marked themselves as a lifestyle brand by selling products through licensing partnerships. This includes watches, jewelry, eyewear, handbags, perfumes and shoes. Today Guess has grown into a multi-billion Delaware corporation, marketed under several trademarks including GUESS, GUESS?, GUESS U.S.A, GUESS jeans, GUESS kids, baby GUESS and G by GUESS, and a purposely more sophisticated fashion line; Marciano.

Guess ensures that their products are branded excessively.

Considered a middle class brand, jeans range from €80.00 - €200.00. They provide a variety of different fits, including skinny, jeggings, flared, bootcut, boyfriend, destroyed and fashion jeans. According to the Jeans & Denim guide, the most popular are the Guess Curve X and Guess Lincoln.

Common characteristics lie in the finishing details. Their iconic Guess? Triangle logo can be found on the back pockets of each jean in different coloured material, depending on the design. The buttons on the jeans also carry the Guess Jeans name. Moreover, interlocking “G” patterns and a squared “G” logo can be found on amongst other things on the bags. The excessive logo design elements help to retain the consistent marketing strategy of the brand. “G” has become the face of Guess. Repeated on most of their items, consumers are able to identify with the company’s core, asserting themselves with “sexy, swanky and daring”.

Heart and soul Guess perceives itself as “innovator of fashion for the young, daring and sexy”. They believe their business strategies set them apart from their competition. These strategies include strong, consistent global brandmarketing and -advertising, combined with varied retail concepts.

Guess strives to be “a worldwide leader of the fashion industry, delivering excellent quality products and services consistent with the portrait brand and image”. Guess focuses on giving back to the community by supporting humanity and protecting the environment. In example, this fall they will partner with Cotton Incorporated Blue Jeans Go Green and launch a Denim Recycling Campaign.

Guess believes that a prominent reason for their success is their focus on customer loyalty achieved by respectable service and transparency in communication.

Skin

Skin

Guess stays true to their brand identity through a specific retail environment. Today they have a total of 835 retail stores operating across America, Europe and Asia.

Additionally, Guess’ licensees and distributors operate a total of 804 retail stores across 97 countries. In North America, the brand’s wholesale customers are primarily department stores including Macy’s, Bloomingdale, Liverpool and The Bay. In Europe their products are sold in large department stores such as El Corte Ingles, Galeries Lafayette and Printemps, and smaller boutiques.

The retail environment is very structured and minimalistic, enabling easy accessibility, often with their signature red colour painted on one wall. Red is often associated with power and passion, which connects to Guess’ identity.

The products are divided into suitable sections, including the new collection, jeans, shoes and accessories with all size possibilities hanging out in the shop. This gives off an open and comfortable shopping experience. jeans, shoes and accessories with all size possibilities hanging out in the shop. This creates an open and comfortable shopping experience.

The brand tactically chose the triangular form, as it is one of the primer and vital shape in geometry and it gives a sense of strength. Also, the triangle is often perceived as an “edgy” shape when compared to others. The relatable question mark inside the triangle reinforces the brawnd name. Guess wants to offer a great customer experience and service. Their staff all vary in appearance, sex, age and race. The tone of voice at Guess is open and friendy, with polite and helpful employers.

Brain The brand aims to keep a timeless image regardless of changing trends. Their favoured image of fun, fashionable and sexy, has been sought for through particularly advertising. The black and white oriented photographed editorials with red writing, have become their signature.

Guess has expanded their media platforms to Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and smartphone applications. Guess uses these platforms to advertise their clothing on celebrities, such as Kanye West, Rosie Fortescue and Kylie Jenner. This way Guess gains a broader consumer base as fans look up to their fashion icons. Furthermore, renowned individuals who are not originally models have been used, such as Priyanka Chopra and Paris Hilton. The models chosen for Guess all have a high sex appeal, which drives the advertisement. Guess ensures that their current celebrity models are displayed on all of the packaging, flyers and booklets. Often, these editorials are taken from the chest up, so that the consumer is drawn to the model’s face. The models become the face of the Guess, and selling as a the brand as a“must-have”. Guess’ identity is translated trough their logo; the red and white triangle.

.

In the mirror By looking at social media and forums, it is clear that there is an excessive difference between Guess’ target and user group. Guess describes their main consumer group as men and women, 20 - 35 years of age, who are style-conscious and have a disposable income. However, evident amongst forums and blogs, the brand is most popular amongst teenager’s aged 12-16. Although Guess strives for a modern and sexy aesthetic, a reoccurring perception of the brand by the older general public is that the products come across as “cheap and tacky”. People associate the excessive logos, flashy decor and patchwork with a cheap and unfavourable glitzy audacious image. Moreover, for many the quality does not meet the standard of the prices.

Gsus Sindustries

Playful Appropriate Downplayed €90 - €150 Arhnem, 1993

21

Birth

Blood

Gsus Sindustries started out as a skate shop in Arhnem, founded by Jan schrijver and Angelique Berkhout. The two founders didn’t care much for trends or preconceived ideas, resulting them in worldwide recognition because of their unique, daring and rebellious designs (Like the infamous fakefur bikini.) Gsus designs were worn by Dj’s, artists, skaters and clubbers. The name Gsus played a big part in the succes of the brand. It symbolises the brand’s close relation to 90’s pop culture, when the G became very hyped due to the rising popularity in Gangsta rap and artist G love. But mostly it’s a symbol of the brand’s rebellious and humoristic side, since Gsus (pronounced as Jesus) forms a contrast with the second name “sin” dustries and the brand’s garish designs. Nowadays however, Gsus Sindustries has matured a bit in design and image.

As mentioned before, Gsus Sindustries has matured in both design and branding. The provocative tight glittery dresses from cheap material have been replaced by modest and more sophisticated designs, knee length loose dresses with a waist belt, woollen blazers and of course jeans in classic fits. Materials are durable and of reasonable quality but the brand has kept a bit of it’s rebellious image intact in the design by mixing up flashy prints with more simple and geometric varieties. Brightly colored lining, finishings and details reoccur in their collections and support Gsus’s desired image of a matured rebel.

Besides details in design, Gsus jeans can be recognised by their trimming and branding. Every pair of jeans has a reverted V stitching on the butt, as well as a leather patch on the top and a label inside of the jean. Gsus produces 4 collections a year for both men, woman and children, all containing a wide range of garments (Jeans, jackets, shirts, dresses ect.) It could best be described as a mid-segment brand, with a pair of jeans for woman ranging from €89.99 - €149.99.

Heart and soul Gsus strongly believes that a true rebel dances to his own beat. Their mission states “we create fashion that emphasises your unique identity, not overrules it”. Which reflects on the fact that their rebellious image has definitely grown up, they view themselves as the 40 year old settled down ex-rockstar turned father and business man: Conventional upon first glance, with a 9 to 5 job, dressed in a proper business suit during weekdays but parties is up in a flamboyant leather jacket during the weekend. They value decency and apropriacy but always with a playful twist. Gsus is also a company that does not take itself too serious, they state to not care too much about runway trends but follow their own path instead. They have proven their playful image in the past by producing items which were completely out of line with their range as a fashion brand, for example bicycles.

Skin

Skin

Many retailers offer garments by Gsus Sindustries. Large website’s like Zalando together with smaller dutch websites offer mostly previous collections and basic garments like jeans. Top style garments are sold trough large, mid segment department stores like de bijenkorf and in the past V&D. These top styles are also available in numerous small boutiques but most of the sales go trough Gsus’s own website or stores, where the whole collection is available.

These stores (a total of 8 in the Netherlands) are often located on big shopping streets.

Take for example their store in the Kalverstraat, this busy street attracts a wide range of shoppers who are mostly interested in well known labels of mid segment prices, in short, a public that really fit’s the brand. The windows are open and busy, displaying colorful stickers, fitting dolls and the store behind them. Which is surprisingly calm, Jeans are either laying on tables, folded on shelves or hanging from a copper pipe. Other garments are neatly hung from the same copper pipes all around the store. Next to the fitting rooms there’s a big leather couch, a karaf of water and some decorative plants. It gives off an industrial yet cozy vibe despite the over all store being very commercial. Not every size of garment is available but the store assistannt is very helpful after being approached.

location) proves they are targeting a wide target group. Most of their advertisements can be found back on their website, and are all created according to a very strict recipe; a male and female in an interesting location (their spring summer 16 campaign was located in a loft for example, whilst their fall winter campaign was shot in a glass house) wearing top style Gsus garments and looking away from the camera with an expressionless face. Their general advertisements embrace the idea of appropriate yet playful.

Appropriate is also a good description of their physical branding. In store, employees won’t approach customers but are polite and helpful when asked for. Garments contain a simple price tag and after making a purchase the customer can carry it home in a simple grey aper bag with the name Gsus written in white lettering.

Brain If you have not actively looked for it, you probably have not seen a Gsus advertisement in the recent past. That’s because Gsus is currently only bringing out promotional material on any medium other than their own social media and website. On these particular channels however, they are very active. They post images on their Facebook and Instagram almost daily. Facebook contains mostly updates on collections, tips on hotspots in Amsterdam and giveaway contests. The tone of voice is quite friendly and relaxed. The second online channel they are very active on is Instagram, where they mostly post updates on their collections and their information about participation on events. These events are also a big medium of communication, this year Gsus Sindustries had a stand during Lowlands festival where they sold drinks and gave away free buttons, their choice to be present on Lowlands shows that they want to be associated with the music and festival culture and consciously chose a very popular and mainstream festivalwhich (as their shop

In the mirror The Gsus sindustries target group can best be described as: Men and woman that are aware of the trends and current zeitgeitst, between the age of 20 and 30 that do not necessarily want to be ahead of trends. They know what’s playing in the fashion industry, make conscious choices but don’t always have to stand out. Most likely these people will have a medium to high income, live in the suburbs, have young children or at least be professionals. Which motivates them to dress modestly whilst they still harbour the desire to show their individuality.

In practice, the Gsus user group is not far away from their group. Most people purchasing Gsus are awere of trends yet don’t harbour the desire to stand out. They are however between the age of 30 and 50 which is much older than the initial target group. Besides the user group, most people don’t know about the change in branding and style of Gsus.

They presume it’s either gone or still the ostentatious and flashy rebel it used to be.

Diesel

Rebellious Fun Ironic €100 - €270 Italy, 1978

23

Birth Since 1978, co-founder Renzo Rosso has elevated DIESEL from an Italian denim brand, established in Movena, to a global lifestyle brand. Together with his former employer, Adriano Goldschmied, Renzo re-branded Adriano’s Italian jeans label “Moltex”. They decided to name their new brand after the “alternative energy” Diesel fuel. This association and non-Italian name benefits the idea of establishing a global, alternative and innovative denim brand. In 1985 Renzo Rosso separates from Adriano and takes over the business. He starts spreading his casual clothing brand internationally in brand and flaagship stores around the world, starting with New York, London and Rome. Diesel is part of Only the Brave holding company, which is also owned by Renzo Rosso.

Heart and soul Diesel’s mission is to create “an apparel line, perfect for individual people who follow their own unique path in life and for those style makers who express their individuality by the way they dress”. They believe, as forerunners, that their apparel and denim brand is a lifestyle, not just clothing. Their values of passion, individuality, bravery and self-expression were starting points for the Diesel lifestyle. Diesel’s manifesto is to motivate their customers to be different while building a new unity and community with those who dare to step out of the row. Diesel perceives themselves and their values as indicators for a good life and feeling of freedom. They invite their fans to become part of their spirit of life which makes, in combination with the product’s high quality standard, the unique selling point.

Diesel’s customers along with their unique personalities become part of Diesels identity.

Blood Since Diesel seeks to produce around 3000 new products every season, their products are experimental and rich in variety of fits and washes. Designers are given free headroom to put their entire creative vision into the product, which effects ranging fits and finishings. The broad offer of washed denim and denim abrasions is characteristic for Diesel, who pioneered the used-look jeans. Diesel Denim products, which make 38% of their Apparel collection, are hand made in Italy with Italian and Japanese Denim.

The high quality standard of production is rare in the mid price range segment and mass market which is part of the brand’s USP. A small white label can be found on every pair of jeans, which makes them directly identifiable as Diesel, since such differentiation cannot be made based on fit and look of the jeans. For women and men, the price for jeans reach from 100-270 €.

Skin The purpose of giving the Italian brand an un-Italian name, was to make it understandable, accessible and successfully distributed worldwide. After opening flagship in New York, Rome and London Renzo Rosso continued spreading his brand’s stores over USA, whole Europe and Asia. By now, Diesel has 5,000 points of sale from which 400 are monobrand stores located in the wealthiest areas of the cities.

Diesel was the first fashion brand who used the Internet as a communication and selling tool from 1995. Material like stone and wood and combined with steel and glass in geometric forms and harsh lines. The lights are kept dimmed to reference to the rock-n-roll theme that is often present in their campaigns. The customers can not access the accurately piled up Jeans on the shelves, they are instead given an overview over styles, fits, and washes from which they can select for an assistant to set aside for them.

Brain Diesel campaigns are wide spread and can be seen in location from tram stations to magazines and all across social media including Instagram, Facebook and Snapchat.

Their tone is young, sexy, rebellious and always adds a twist of irony. They make the impression that their message is more important than the actual product they sell. Their advertisement campaigns tell a story, of being ‘stupid’, free and provocative. Next to those stories and the bold advertisement phrases, the product moves into the background. Diesel’s mind set and the lifestyle are more important for their communication strategy. Short, incomplete sentences are formulated in the imperative and address the reader directly with you, which creates a personal and bold undertone.

The staff’s performance is reliable and helpful. They guide the customer through the brand’s offer and interact more like a stylist than a sales person. In-store training ensures that all employees have a solid knowledge about the product’s fit, wash, fabric and the brand itself. Everyone working in the store is fully dressed in Diesel apparel. Next to their understanding of product and brand, clothing is the only thing they have in common. Sex (also trans-gender), age, ethnicity do not matter in Diesel’s selection of staff.

Diesel’s use of typography in text and logo mirrors their tonal voice and identity. Everything is kept in bold, capital letters underplayed with a strong red. It is loud, strong and energetic, which matches perfectly with the rebellious, fun lifestyle that Diesel promotes.

In the mirror Diesel sells a lifestyle, which they want to share with their target group. The Diesel target customer is well educated, rebellious, hedonistic and studying or working in a metropolitan, urban city. They care more about flexible working hours and a good work-life balance than about the money. They are between 20 and 35, middle class and were raised in a time of fast growing technology, so use of various social media channels are apart of their lifestyles.

Even though the aspirational group is part of the user group, mainly men between 25 and 40 regularly buy their Diesel jeans. Returning fans of the brand are typically attracted to the in-store service.

It is safe to say that what they do works. The publics reactions are mainly positive and people love not only the product but the brand. The fanatics for the brand can be seen in the comments on their social media. Their brand values resonate with their customer base.

Vingino

Adventurous Playful Energetic €45 - €65 Netherlands, 2001

25

Birth

Blood

Vingino is a Dutch denim brand for children, founded in 2001 by soccer player Benny Dekker. Dekker’s father in law was already in the textile business for over 40 years.

Together they founded Vingino, originally a denim-only brand but as the brand started to grow over the years, the product range did as well.

The motivation behind Vingino is to make children feel special and to create a better future for children all over the world. Since children are the main inspiration Benny Dekker named the brand after his two kids: Vince and Gino.

Denim is at the heart of everything that Vingino does. They value the fabric as it is; the toughness, the rugged attitude, how it fades and the indigo yarn. The fabric is their source of inspiration, and they combine the classic denim elements with Italian and vintage influences. In fact, their first product was a pair of jeans that was inspired by a vintage piece that they found in Naples.

Due to outstanding branding elements and innovative washes, Vingino jeans are distinctive and unique. All of these elements represent their identity and background, like, for example, the Italian “flag” that is attached to one of the belt loops on the boys jeans. Other details include embroideries, patches, big texts and ornamental stitching.

To emphasize the vintage aesthetic, the jeans are washed or bleached. This creates a dirty, rugged look, which allows the children to be free and adventurous.

Aside from denim, Vingino nowadays carries everything from sunglasses and jackets, to shoes and swimwear. Their balanced price-quality ratio has enabled Vingino to attain a strong position in retail outlets in The Netherlands and abroad. Their jeans are priced between €44,95 - €64,95 which places the brand in the high-mid price range within the children’s fashion market.

Heart and soul Vingino perceives themselves as the ultimate denim brand for children. They make every pair of jeans special, so that they will make kids feel special too. Vingino understand children and their need to play, go out on adventure, whilst still feeling cool and confident.

One of Vingino’s key values is quality; only the best will do. They believe that their product should exceed the customer’s expectations. The clothing is made to last and to endure every kind of adventure.

Furthermore, Vingino wants to create a better future for children all over the world. Thus besides the qualitative and fashionable aspect, the jeans are also safe; a sustainable and conscious production process is very important to the brand. Vingino believes that fair labor conditions contribute to the quality of a product. Therefore, Vingino has become a member of BSCI (Business Social Compliance Initivative) and the German “der Grüne Punkt” organization.

Skin

In the mirror

Vingino has over 1,200 selling points, divided over The Netherlands, Belgium, Germany, Austria, Italy, Cyprus and Scandinavia. These include Vingino’s own brand stores, where most of which are located in The Netherlands. The stores are centrally located, often in the main shopping street of the city, or in a shopping mall. Online the brand is sold on many international web shops for children’s clothing and on large Dutch online stores, such as Wehkamp.

The interior of Vingino’s retail environment support the brand identity. The wooden floors, tables and cabinets and the brick walls are in line with the vintage aesthetic of the collections, quotes like ‘La Dolce Vita’ show the Italian influences, and their denim heritage is celebrated by showcasing the jeans on indigo painted shelves. The colorful clothing does not look particularly organized, which together with the interior creates an rugged and playful atmosphere that is still warm, vibrant and inviting.

Vingino is one of the biggest children’s brand in The Netherlands. The brand focusses mainly on children as well as infants and toddlers. They have a special collection for teenagers, which has a more mature style. By broadcasting their commercials on children’s TV channels and using a playful and accessible tone and identity, Vingino manages to excite kids about their clothing.

As a children’s brand, Vingino has a second target group; the parents. Vingino addresses to young / early parents, age 25-35, who are conscious of the future of their kids.

These parents value the style and quality of clothing. Even though their income is not high, they are willing to pay for certain brands because of this reason. They believe that their children deserve the best, which in their opinion means looking good and feeling confident.

Vingino has a very distinctive, flashy style. As a result, people either feel really connected with the brand or not there is not a group in between. Overall the image of Vingino is quite positive though there are some scrutiny in regards to the price point. Parent’s are not always able to afford expensive clothing for an age group that grows so quickly.

Brain Vingino’s corporate identity is very playful and suggest outside adventure. In their on and offline ad campaigns and editorials, the photography has use many “vintage” elements, such as a photoshopped analog film and a sepia color effect. The images show children playing outside, looking cool and confident.

The logo is a combination of the letters V and G, of Vince and Gino, Benny Dekker’s children. The brand’s signature color, red, in combination with the bold font makes the logo bright and powerful, which is an affective reflection of their values.

Vingino uses numerous communication channels. They are active on various social media, such as Instagram, Facebook, Snapchat, Twitter and Youtube. Although, since the brand is not as well known outside of The Netherlands, most of their followers on social media are Dutch thus the conversations or comments underneath the pictures are as well.

In addition, each new collection is promoted by a TV commercial and a print magazine. Vingino’s tone of voice is enthusiastic, playful and encouraging; it is all about making children feel free and confident, whether it is on social media, in advertisements or in the stores.

Nudie Jeans

Individual Minimalistic Organic €100 - €300 Sweden, 2001

27

Birth

Blood

Nudie Jeans is a Swedish clothing brand, originated in 2001, Gothenburg. After having worked for many years in the commercial denim industry, Maria Erixon, founder of Nudie, decided to make a transition towards transparency.

She was fed up with the short-term trends and wanted to create something long lasting instead. Together with Palle Stenberg she reacted to capitalism by creating Nudie Jeans; a 100% organic brand that in addition is now aiming to be 100% transparent. Besides casual clothing and accessories, Nudies are known for their specialization in raw and pre-washed denim jeans. Starting off as a menswear brand, they now state to be a unisex clothing brand.

The Swedish roots of the brand are clearly visible in the sleek and simplistic designs. The wide range of jeans in dry, black, pre-washed, rigid, selvage and stretch denim all have a minimalist design aesthetic in common. Overly complicated designs are unknown in the Swedish vocabulary, hence the effortless styles. These essential elements of the Scandinavian country, culture and design are what distinguish Nudie Jeans from others. Their signature orange stitching of the selvages that align with their logo and tags, emphasizes their simplistic style. Their orange pocket stitching gives a nod to the orange construction cranes in Gothenburg, home of Nudie Jeans.

Nudie Jeans deliberately is part of the mid-market to make sustainable products available for everyone who loves great quality denim. Jeans are available from €99 to €299.

However, average price for the popular and long lasting pair of dry denim is around €139.

Heart and soul According to Nudie Jeans, things will get more beautiful with age and this process directly translates into their dry denim.

An untreated pair of jeans is given to the customer, with the advice not to wash the product for six months. During this period, the denim will develop a character around the customers’ legs and lifestyle. This “second skin” is sold to the customer with the promise of free repairs in the Nudie Jeans Repair Shop. This personalized customer approach is Nudie’s key brand value and connects with their mission to offer every customer a unique and individual product.

The long term aim to contribute to a sustainable denim industry is substantiated by their Nudie Jeans Repair Shops where customers can go to for free repairs and alterations.

Customers that do not have access to this service are offered a Nudie Jeans Repair Kit to do the mending at home.

Nudie Jeans spread their individual, unique and honest collections and campaigns throughout the world, in which the customer relationship comes first.

Skin

Skin

In the Netherlands, Nudie Jeans are only sold in multi-brand stores, whereas in Sweden, Berlin, London, Japan, Zurich, Barcelona and the USA the brand has its own mono-brand stores. Through their website, products are distributed to 26 countries worldwide.

Their minimalist aesthetic attitude is converted into their retail environment. Industrial, yet clean stores emit vibes that invite the customer inside. Earthly colors create a warm and soft atmosphere in which the customer can ease through the product ranges that are displayed by fit and size. The broad collection is accessible through the clear and spacious display of the jeans. Walls are filled with their most popular denims and are easily accessed. Industrial furniture is what makes the store look raw without pushing too hard. Nudie Jeans shows their concern for details by recurrent use of metal and wood in their vintage furniture.

The combination of geometrical shapes and earthly colors like grey and brown give the room a masculine, yet calm atmosphere. too hard. Nudie Jeans shows their concern for details by recurrent use of metal and wood in their vintage furniture. The combination of geometrical shapes and earthly colors like grey and brown give the room a masculine, yet calm atmosphere.

Nudie Jeans succeeds to conceive a retail environment in which their friendly brand values are emphasized en recognized. Warm and soft colors make the customer feel welcome, at ease and at home, which will eventually lead to brand appeal and customer loyalty. Nudie Jeans are able to bring into existence a considerate and reliable environment through their overall relaxed mood and color combinations.

dynamic visual identity contains natural colors on a white surface. This leaves a clean impression and aligns with their store characteristics.

Next to Nudiejeans.com, they have an additional website called mynudies.com. Here, customers can communicate directly with the brand to give feedback, ask questions or add photos of their pair of Nudie Jeans. This is where the brand bonds with their customers in a personal way, besides displaying their view on good customer service and loyalty.

Nudie Jeans is very open with regard to their production process. What really distinguishes Nudie Jeans from others is that they admit their mistakes. For example, they are 100% organic, but still openly explain how much water they are using in order to create the cotton. This transparent approach is what makes Nudie Jeans feel like a friend.

Nudie Jeans’ presence on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter is in line with their brand concept, where frequently updated pictures are captioned with humor, relating to the kind and informal customer relationship. Photographs used on social media platforms are in either black and white, or earthly format. This minimalistic style links with the natural and simple values of Nudie Jeans.

Brain Nudiejeans.com includes a blog that talks about current projects and campaigns as well as production processes.

In addition they use word of mouth and a free booklet, explaining the brand identity. Paid advertisements are not included in their brand concept, as well as anything else that can be perceived as too commercial. Their blog and social media accounts have a friendly and patient tone of voice.

The logo is handwritten and simple and communicates their importance for individuality in a straightforward manner.

Nudie Jeans are known for their personal approach and their logo symbolizes this uniqueness. Their consistent, yet

.

In the mirror When asked if he would ever get too old wearing denim, CEO of Nudie Jeans Mr Stenberg replied, “You never get too old wearing great jeans”. Age is not a prime factor, however Nudie Jeans is targeted at 25+-year-old cultural creatives who have a higher income and are passionate about great denim. The user group is around its thirties and cares about social and environmental responsibility. Nudie Jeans’ transparent approach is highly appreciated by the public and their dry denims are a much-discussed topic online. Nudie Jeans thrives from positive word of mouth that is being shared all around the world. Their non-commercial brand is especially popular among people who do not want to be mainstream and believe in great and honest quality. They do not use a mass-marketing approach, but engage instead a very centralized way of spreading their information. Less is more. According to Nudie Jeans, simplicity is key in every situation.

G-Star Raw

Urban Unrefined Innovative. €100 - €300 Netherlands, 1989

29

Birth

Blood

The G-Star Raw brand was created in 1989 in Amsterdam

by Jos van Tilburg who originally launched the brand as Gap Star. Tilburg decided to design a denim range that stood out from the traditional heritage jean companies of the time and introduced their recognizable ‘raw denim’ jeans collection which is still the brands core focus today.

The brand embraces the lived-in look of a garment as they believe it tells a story with an ‘individual soul’. To create this, the use of unwashed raw denim goes through a selection of treatments which create different graduations of wear.

Military inspired finishes can also be seen repeatedly through the brand’s denim ranges. They combine buttoned waist tabs, side entrance pockets and back welt-pockets that create the impression of a uniform. It can be seen throughout the brands’ collections that the garments are heavily embroidered with the brands name, the number ‘96’ for the brand’s birth date and large stitching around pockets and seams. These elements give their products instant recognizable features. The brand positions their products at a mid-market price range with women’s jeans ranging from €100.00 - €190.00 and men’s jeans varying between €100.00 - €300.00.

However, Jos van Tilburg did not realize the scale of which the brand would grow and the extent of its global influence.

When the brand decided to launch itself into international markets in 1996; the brand was reconstructed into G-Star Raw to avoid confusion with the already well established brand Gap.

Heart and soul G-Star Raw’s philosophy is to produce distinctive new styles of jeans by continually experimenting and developing their product. Such as introducing a 3D structure when physically designing and creating prototypes. To achieve this, an internal taping system runs along the outer and inner leg seams to give a ‘stacked’ construction and this can be seen recurring throughout their entire denim collections.

Furthermore, for each new season, the focal point of each collection is to use new improvements of detailing and washes of denim.

All of these factors help the brand to achieve its mission of striving to not be just ‘one of the crowd’. In addition, their values also include contributing positively to environmental protection and pride themselves on finding new ways to create their products in the most sustainable way. For example ‘Raw for The Oceans’ campaign involves recycling waste plastic from the sea to make the denim products – an entirely new method within the industry; which promotes the brands innovative image.

Skin G-Star Raw’s retail strategy plays on accessibility with over 6,000 physical points of sale in 70 countries including a mix of independent retail stores and shop-in-shops. Their 12 flagship stores are located in major cities that include New York, Melbourne, Milan and London. Other retail points include the brand’s official webpage and online retail wholesalers including Score.nl and ASOS.com.

The retail environment is designed to cohere with the ongoing tone of voice and theme that the brand protrudes.

For example, the stores layout and interior is minimal and features little color, keeping to a grayscale theme, as seen in the design of their products. Additionally, the stores have a futuristic feel generated via glass walls and display cases.

Which the brand uses to emphasize their ‘transparency’ and accentuates their slogan of “Just The Product”. The overwhelmed by choice; which can discourage physical purchases within store. All merchandise is displayed on the shop floor via horizontal clothing rails with a wide range of sizes in ascending order. However, one product on each rail is displayed front-facing to improve the visibility to the customer.

Brain G-Star Raw uses integrated marketing communication channels which include social media, billboards, promotional short videos and magazine advertisements in order to send a unified and clear message. The brand uses a selection of influencers in their campaigns that they believe will appeal to the target audience. The range extends from ballerina Keena Kampa to Kasabian band member Serge Pizzorno.

By associating G-Star Raw with diverse characters, the brand believes it can reinvent their own image to attract the diversity amongst their target group.They regularly update their social media pages to present their latest products and showcase what is trending around the globe. By providing relevant and up-to-date content the brand can engage with more online users while growing their following. They have a coherent visual language, with the same style photographs and color schemes throughout all platforms, from posts on Instagram to promotional videos on their own website. The style is modern and simplistic with a direct nature which epitomizes their slogan of “Just the Product”. This also applies to the brands logo, a simple but recognizable ‘G’ on a white background used for all of the brand’s media forms.

G-Star Raw staff have an important role to play in developing the brands personality as they are often the first point of contact the customer has when entering a store.

The brand hires unique and edgy individuals to work within their stores to emulate their target audience by wearing the brand’s newest collections. The employees are professional but hold a relaxed and laid back nonchalance attitude when addressing customers. Employees are expected to have in-depth knowledge on how the garments are created and the materials background history so that customers feel reassured when making a purchase.

In the mirror The tribe targeted by G-Star Raw consists of males and females ages 20-35 year olds who enjoy an active and casual lifestyle. So they shop with brands whom have genuine motivation for sustainability. The target group has a strong passion for the environment and in turn their buying behavior revolves around premeditated one-off purchases of a high quality. Their incomes would illicit them as urban young professionals that have a disposable income to spend on materialistic goods.

There is a defining preconception by the public of who the user group are for the brand and this is very different from the target audience the brand is aiming towards.

Due to the nature of ‘urban-infused’ streetwear, notions indicate that users could belong to the ‘social balancers’ market segment. Consequently, users live in areas of rented housing within city suburbs and usually are on a lower income than the target group. However, this does not come from the brands own forms of communications, as they all embody the tone of voice and imagery that relate to their desired target audience.

Amsterdams blauw (Scotch & Soda)

Eclectic Playful Rebellious €100 - €300 Netherlands, 1985

Birth

Blood

In 1985 Scotch&Soda was founded by Laurent Hompes, a menswear brand that was mainly focused on bright colored jackets. Scotch and Soda was reintroduced in 2001 when three new owners joined forces and relaunched the company. The aim for them was to make Scotch and Soda into a Dutch youth fashion company, established in Amsterdam and inspired by the world.

The Amsterdams Blauw collection consists of many different models and fits for both male and female customers.

The jeans are designed with attention to finishing and detail. Branding on the Amsterdams Blauw jeans is a very important characteristic. For example, details are important such as labels with elaborate prints, decorations inside of the jeans or small labels on the inside of the zipper with small text. They give the clothing that extra special feeling.

A feeling Amsterdams Blauw believes that will satisfy their customers and that relates to their core values. They are a mid- to high segment denim label since their jeans’ prices vary between €99,95 - €299,95. Their prices are based on the treatments that have been done to the jeans. A lot of the branding elements refer back to the unique selling point of the brand, namely that they are the Amsterdam established denim brand. The three crosses on the right back pockets are the most recognizable feature on the Amsterdams Blauw jeans and refer to the symbol of the city of Amsterdam. The brands personality is described as open, informal, positive, sincere, interested and creative.

In 2010 a denim line of Scotch&Soda ‘Amsterdams Blauw’ was established. The brand’s name refers to the indigo Delfts blue color which was a characteristic of Dutch art in 1500-1750 and which is still widely visible in the Amsterdam street decorations. The blue color also refers to the brand’s collection since it consists of jeans in many shades of blue.

Heart and soul Amsterdams Blauw thinks that the denim trade is going too fast, they want to create a slow product. Their mantra is: It takes time to understand and feel and warm up to denim.

This mantra is also apparent in the fact that they only launch 2 collections per year. The brand operates from 3 core values; eclectic, playful and rebellious. Amsterdams Blauw see themselves as a compact high profile denim collection that is classic in many ways, but young and progressive when it comes to launching clothes onto the denim market.

Heritage is an important feature of the brand. Established in Amsterdam, they use the origin of the brand and its location as a way to differentiate themselves from other brands.

Amsterdams Blauw plays into the fact that Amsterdam is often seen as the denim capital and they present themselves as the only truly proud Amsterdam established denim brand.

31

Skin Amsterdams Blauw is inspired by the city of Amsterdam, therefore their stores are only located in Amsterdam. The Amsterdams Blauw flagship store is located in the ‘negen straatjes’; the nine streets that are known for their small vintage boutiques. The streets have been the same for the past 300 years. The store environment is in line with the brand’s vision of respecting heritage, formerly it was a grocery store. The interior holds much of its authentic characteristics, exposed brick walls and authentic Dutch white tiles. In the store they extend their idea of balancing their authenticity with a fresh optic. The color blue is a reoccurring color throughout the whole store and even the exterior of the store is totally blue. Amsterdams Blauw jeans are always displayed on shelves. The purpose of making the jeans not too accessible in the shops is that the staff is there to help every customer.

Amsterdams Blauw has also opened a denim concept store called ‘The Blauw Kitchen’ in the oldest working class quarter of the city on Gerard Doustraat in de Pijp. The store features indigo denim tests, color creations and experiments. Artists are also given the opportunity to collaborate and to exhibit their work in the store.

Scotch&Soda has over 160 official stores all over the world where Amsterdams Blauw is represented as a subdivision.

Amsterdams Blauw is also sold in global department stores and in independent stores under the brand name Scotch&Soda. Scotch&Soda has their own website as well on which Amsterdams Blauw is featured as a subdivision. .

Brain

They use a lot of online communication channels, for example: Instagram, Pinterest, Youtube and Twitter. They are all covered under the name: Scotch&Soda featuring their subdivided brands to make it clear that they are all part of the Scotch&Soda family, although they vary in style and target group. Amsterdams Blauw tries to communicate their identity visually by generating color recognition in their advertisement. They play with the double meaning behind the color blue referring to denim and the city of Amsterdam.

The visual style is focused on showing the relation between the brand and the city of Amsterdam. The style of the images all have a vintage analogue feel to enhance the heritage and authenticity of the brand. The images of Amsterdams Blauw

portray the original and laid-back atmosphere of the city that inspires them.

Amsterdams Blauw sees their staff as cheerful hosts of the shop, they give a personal touch to the products. They are genuinely interested in their customers. Amsterdams Blauw staff is also their target group, they function as a walking mannequin since in-store mannequins are not used.

Amsterdams Blauw rather gives a more personal touch by actually showing the products on real people.

In the mirror Amsterdams Blauw calls their target group ‘The proud Amsterdammer’. The proud Amsterdammer is around 20 years old and could be a man or a woman. They love to cycle through their beloved city of Amsterdam. They drink coffee at their favorite barista and spend above average money on their denim. Not only high quality is a must for them, but they also seek authenticity and a true brand story that connects with them on a personal level. Amsterdams Blauw is sold all over the world therefore there is a difference between their target group and their user group. Many people of the user group are not ‘The proud Amsterdammers’; they might have never been to Amsterdam. They do not buy Amsterdams Blauw because of the story behind it or because they connect with the brand on a personal level. They buy the brand because they are denim lovers and value the quality, finishing and detailing.

Amsterdams Blauw is often referred to as the ‘Denim dandy’. Most people know the Scotch&Soda jeans, but are not aware of the fact that the denim line is actually called Amsterdams Blauw. People perceive the jeans as wearable for many occasions. The brand is known for their quality, eye for details and trendy innovative washes. Amsterdams Blauw sells a lot of their regular fits in different washes so customers see Amsterdams Blauw as their go-to brand.

Denham

Traditional Progressive Uncompromising €150 - €700 Netherlands, 2008

33

Birth

Blood

In 2008 internationally recognized jeanmaker Jason Denham founded his namesake brand Denham, ironically pronounced the same as ‘denim’. Though an Englishman, Jason Denham decided Amsterdam would be the ideal home for his brand as he considers the city the “real denim capital of the world”. The brand was forged from his extensive knowledge of denim as well as his passion for collecting unique period pieces including memorabilia, objects from around the world, jeans and other garments which came to be known as the Denham Garment Library. He is known to be a connoisseur of sorts and in building the Denham team it was important to find other like-minded individuals.

Denham believes that like cooking, there needs to be a balance of ingredients to jean making. Denham’s unique selling point is the harmony of the brand as a whole.

Experience, passion and knowledge of vintage denim blended with modern styling in order to find harmony with both the concept and collection. Using techniques like vulcanization of materials while playing with tape seams and waterproof seals they are able to add a modernity to heritage fabrics.

Virgin denim is a staple in their collections as it involves both the skill of the craftsman and the story of the wearer.

They are careful to work with ethical and sustainable denim mills and source mostly from Japan, Italy and the US. Key features of their jeans include the 7 point pocket inspired by the hand of the craftsman, the scissor logo sewn onto the jeans with exactly 691 stitches, and premium copper hardware with a black-satin powder coating.

Falling in the mid-high range segment their price range is €150.00 - €700.00. Divided into men, women and children they have an array of different styles specific to each sector.

The women’s line is focused on fit and although the men’s include the signature virgin denims and specialized jeans their collections are primarily held up by their fit focused products.

Heart and soul Denham’s philosophy is that the ‘truth is in the details’. They see themselves as the caretakers of workwear tradition. In order to respect the craft’s traditions they strive to continue the work set forward by their predecessors by dedicating themselves to innovation and never relinquishing quality.

Their vision is to create something uncompromisingly new while rooting it in the strongest foundation of timeless wearability. The brand’s mission is to focus on balancing a commitment to progressive design against an equally obsessive respect for jeans craft tradition.

Denham uses self-deprecating humor in order to combat the stereotype of jean obsessed hipsters. This can be seen in their short film Denham Psycho, inspired by the cult classic film American Psycho’s business card scene. By creating a parody of themselves they were able to exhibiting their manic attention to detail and appreciation for craftsmanship while also broadening their fanbase. In regards to the film Jason Denham stated, “It reminds us to keep having fun and not take ourselves too seriously”.

Skin

Skin

For a young and relatively small company, Denham has developed a large range of niche retailers. In Amsterdam, their home base, they began by creating an all-in-one retailer that also housed their company’s international head office and design studio. In short proximity to the original store they expanded to five other specialized retail locations.

The men’s denim bar includes and Service Co., a repair and alterations operation which includes a garden washing station for customers to have their jeans properly laundered.

The women denim bar on the other hand has a 300° mirror and embroidery station. Their concept store comprises of a coffee bar selling Buscaglione Coffee Company, “the gold standard in coffee” and a range of Denham accessories as well as products by outlying designers such as Kara Bags and Ivy & Liv. Founder Jason Denham is known for having one of the worlds largest scissor collections which are on display within the different stores and are the inspiration for the branding and presentation. Their jeans are hung to replicate the look of how scissors fall when suspended and additionally the hooks for the jeans have been made to look like scissors themselves. Other than the Netherlands, Denham has stores across Europe, Japan, the UK, and Australia. They can also be found online and in boutiques around the world.

They are approachable yet highly knowledgable about their products. By working with artists outside of their specialization, Denham has kept an artistic tone. This is seen through their short films such as Denham Psycho and The Jean Maker as well as the Denham Sake, ‘For Goodness Sake’, made by the same manufacturer as their laundry master in Japan, Hiro. Their logo, a pair of watercolor illustrated scissors, can be found on every single product and promotion piece which is one example of how they remain heavily branded throughout all of their communication channels.

Brain Denham’s communication depends heavily on their desire to create and share a story. They achieve this by sharing their Denham “lifestyle” through multiple social media outlets. Their Facebook keeps the consumers updated about the many in-store events such as Vogue’s Fashion Night Out, Amsterdam Denim Days and parties to celebrate store openings or anniversaries. Their Instagram is also a reflection of this story telling methodology, from design meetings to production processes and of the employees themselves. Denham’s strategy is extremely carefully curated. This is seen back not only trough their social media but also on every physical communication Denham puts out including catalogues, stationary, flyers, coffee cups and so on all. Purchases come wrapped in Denham tissue paper carefully put into a high quality Denham bag. The experience in store is also a part of the story Denham is trying to sell.

Employees are carefully selected and could all be a living advertisement for the company.

.

In the mirror Denham is targeting the early adapters, opinion leaders who are attentive to the movements of innovators. They play a very important role by working as influencers to the commercial market. Denham aims to attract people with a true passion for the materials and appreciation for craftsmanship. Young creatives age 20 to 40, living in cities, obtains a disposable income mildly above the average whom prioritize quality over quantity. Denham’s user group, however is quite a bit broader and different from their target group. Although the target group serves almost as an aspiration for the actual user group, most of the people within this user group care little for quality or craftsmanship or innovative design. The user group is made out of men and woman aged 20 to 50 who are appealed by the brand name and the prestige that comes from wearing it. They have a large disposable income, a slight knowledge and interest in fashion. The brand has realized the shift in the mens market that seem to have a growing appreciation over fit. They have adapted their collections to reflect this in their Active Fit collection.

Acne studios

Minimalistic Contemporary Edgy €180 - €240 Sweden, 1996

35

Birth

Blood

Acne Studios was founded in 1996 by 4 Swedes, along with current Creative Director Jonny Johansson. The first clothing article, 100 pairs of five-pocket raw denim jeans with red stitching, were designed and spread in 1997. The whole fashion line idea for Acne’s creative studio arose from the Warholian factory mentality, meaning that in addition to just being an advertising company, they wanted to move into multiple fields – one being fashion design. Johansson’s strategy, after having put all agency’s remained funds into those jeans production, was to get somebody cool, hip and famous to wear the denim to gain popularity.

The success came quickly – big spreads of celebrities wearing the jeans were published in Wallpaper magazine, French Vogue and Swedish Elle. Their biggest concern was that they were labeled as a denim brand, but ideally they wanted to become a long-lasting fashion brand. They did not want to be associated with this one hype item, so they quickly added other clothing articles to the range.

Acne jeans have very generic silhouettes and they are more focused on the usage of fabric. The design varies slightly every collection, in accordance with current trends.

The jeans line has its own department, where they collaborate with specialists for the best technical solutions.

They strive for pure and clean design for jeans, as they believe that they are meant for functional and multipurpose usage. They are made with strong, good-quality seams and finishings, so they can be as long lasting as possible. The charm of the jeans lies in their simplicity, no extravagant elements. Instead they have few hidden branding details that are just for the wearer to know. Small pieces of texts on the insides of buttons for example. As they are designing rather generic cuts, their product range is not too wide.

They make collections that have three to six different styles, but offer them in wide range of shades. Occasional trend hypes can be seen, the flared cut, but even then, they are very modest, simple and most importantly functional and comfortable. Acne Studios makes mid-high market denim products, meaning that the prices start from €180 and go up to €240. Prices for Acne jeans are lower than their usual trousers and even shorts, which cost up to €500. As denim has been around 25% of Acne’s business for the last 5 years, one can say that even with not that wide range of styles, these few ones are making huge success.

Heart and soul Acne is a brand that considers themself as a transparent, democratic and utterly contemporary business. Employees of Acne Studios have all these values in mind duing their everyday working life. For them, denim is the most important garment of the modern world as it represents functionality, pureness, cleanliness and generality, which Acne founder Johansson translates to coolness.

Acne’s approach to design and lifestyle breathes opened and modest Scandinavian DNA. Simplicity is combined with creativity and everyone should associate the brand with having fun. Acne is still a young brand, and the charm of it lies in development. Slowly, but steadily they have become a world-player brand. Their mission is to invite people to Acne’s world, where quality and classics are appreciated, as long as everyone is having fun.

Skin

Brain

Acne has its own brand stores, online shop and retailers.

They have offices in six countries, and over 40 stores in 22 cities. Ideally, they collaborate with architecture companies to get the retail environment that suits the brand the best.

In Osaka, Paris, Melbourne and Stockholm they have stores designed by Bozarthfornell Architects, who have successfully managed to implement Acne’s values to the studios. Materials that are used compliment each other and the (dis-)advantages of the building. As a solution for having limited day-light in the studio for example, they used an untreated aluminum wall for reflection through colored glass to provide continuous light and to bright up the garments. These stores look more like exhibitions with their sculptures, paintings, installations and gallerylike environments. In these stores, garments are barely displayed, therefore it is more about the experience that the customer gets, when going into this store.

But not all stores are lucky to have such a well developed concept.

The Amsterdam store, for example, is located in the 9-streets.

There is not much freedom to make radical changes to the excisting space. Therefore, the store is designed to be more accessible for higher traffic. The feeling inside Acne’s store is very calm and never too crowded. Music is not playing, so you can peacefully browse through the garments and dive into details. The dark and warm colors of the interior are welcoming and relaxing, while the neat arrangement of clothing have a luxurious feeling to it.

Acne has a very unique approach to get people’s attention.

Instead of buying advertising spreads in commercial fashion magazines, they publish their own book Acne Paper, often referred to as a ‘collector’s item’. In this biannual issue they collaborate with artists and interview inspiring people to invite people to Acne’s world. It is a smart way to promote the brand, while not having to constantly talk about themselves. It is a perfect tool to communicate their identity and values, throuh visual elements, such as fun intricate layout and their simple typography.

They also have social media channels, like Instagram and Twitter accounts and a Facebook page where they introduce the latest lookbooks and products. They are also making use of user-generated marketing. When they have a new campaign, they ask people to share photos with Acne, adding a certian hash tag.

Big percentage of Acne Studios sales are made online. In addition to their own store, they sell through multible other online retailers, with very different nature.

Acne Studios garments are also sold in bigger department stores but also in small boutiques world-wide. They are sold along with other high-end designer labels, such as Yohij Yamamoto, Comme des Garćons, Alexander Wang.

As for their physical availability, one can say that Acne Studios clothing is very accessible for anyone.

Acne packaging design communicates their brand identity through the simplistic typography, fun patterns and contemporary color combinations.

In the mirror Acne their typical client is a sophisticated young professional with an active lifestyle. They value thoughtfully designed environments, in order to be creative, yet relaxed.

They value fit, functionality and comfort of their clothes.

They do not own a lot of garments, but the ones they do own are very carefully chosen. They are brand aware people that follow and appreciate high-end designer labels. Wearing Acne Jeans makes them feel confident, happy, proud and cool, as CEO Jonny Johansson wishes it, and that can be seen through wearer’s behavior.

Acne Studios is one of the most appreciated high-end brands, which have won adorers. They get a lot of publicity through prominent bloggers and celebrities. What can be read out of their followers, is that it is certain modesty that Acne Studios shows, that has let them become so loved.

Paige Birth

Effortless Sensible Chic €170 - €350 USA, 2004

37

In 2004 Paige Adams-Geller became the first female founder of a premium denim label after a successful career of being a fit model for other jeans brands.

The US brand is based in California and proudly designs, produces and manufactures in Los Angeles. By sourcing their production locally they feel they are supporting their community, provide a safe working environment and are able to control the high standards that they set for the quality of their jeans. Though they are a commercial and wide spread brand, they strive to maintain a personal relationship with the consumers by applying open communication and using keeping the founder at the forefront.

Heart and soul Paige’s ambition is to allow the customer to shine through the clothing they wear through combining the casual style of Southern California with simplistic sophistication. Their minimalistic approach to branding is approachable for the mass market in which they appeal.

Paige’s vision lies in their determined to conquer negative body image with a effortless and sophisticated approach.

While their mission is to create a safe and welcoming environment through consistent high quality. Their focus is to create a safe space in their work environment, retail experience and within the personal experience of the person trying on their jeans achieved. This is achieved by ethical production and meticulous attention to material and fit.

They set out to resolve the stresses brought on by negative body image and for their customers to not only wear their product but feel a personal connection to them. They pride themselves on being a brand for everyone and do so by having an extensive collection of different fits that extend to women, men, petite and maternity segments.

Blood Attested to by consumers, Paige jeans are fit focused and while determined to stay modern they are careful never to change too drastically so fans of the brand will always be able to find the pair they feel best in.

Each season twelve fits styles are designed in a range of different washes, details, colors, prints and sizes totaling 200 different models.

Their fit guide allows customers to find a style that compliments each body type and are one of the few premium denim brands that goes up to a size 34. The key design details always found on their jeans are ‘Paige Denim Los Angeles’ engraved buttons, the Paige signature stitch of 9 lines on the back left pocket, a tan leather logo tag.

The jeans have small adjacent pockets with a curved stitch which claim to play a major role in the flattering shape.

Paige is a premium denim brand ranging from €170-€350 a pair and shares a market with brands such as AG, J Brand and True Religion.

Skin Quintessentially California but internationally recognized, the brand set their flagship stores in the US but are available in retailers across 80 countries and worldwide online. The collection is carried by upscale department stores such as Bloomingdale’s and Selfridges and luxury web shops including MyTheresa.com and Shopbop.com. Paige is accompanied in these retailers by brands such as 7 For All Man Kind and Frame.

As a brand that is focused on quality and fit their retail environment is kept clean and simple. The flagship stores reflect a ‘Scandinavian Country’ design scheme that plays with rustic vs. sleek decor. Ample white space, blue hues and wood tones make the retail space comfortable and welcoming.

This is a direct reflection of how Paige Adams-Geller wants people to feel in Paige jeans. Her goal is to take what she describes as the ‘traumatic’ experience of trying on clothing when someone is not comfortable with their body image and turn it into a healthy and southing environment. The open window dressings, closet like displays of the clothing and the arrangement of arm chairs, rugs and decorative frame mirrors rested against the wall give off the facade of a young professionals apartment rather than a store.

Brain Paige prides themselves on being a reflection of the people who wear their jeans. Their marketing strategy relies heavily on their social media and fan base. Instagram, Twitter and facebook are ways for the brand to connect with their consumers on an intimate level so they to answer as many questions they receive on social media postings as possible.

Often the posts feature behind the scenes of a campaign shoot, in-store events as well as bloggers and celebrities who wear their clothing. Their tone of voice remains down to earth and casual. The bloggers they feature include Prosecco & Plaid, The Viva Luxury and Badlands. Each of these women have large followings, wear high end designer labels and present themselves as clean-cut, well traveled and effortlessly chic. Celebrities in their repertoire include Olivia Palermo, Kendal Jenner, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Sam Smith and Harry Styles all of which are young and commercial household names similar enough to be recognized together but also show a diversity in the way they style the jeans.

Rosie Huntington-Whiteley has been the face of Paige since 2015, an ideal candidate since she was a frequenter of the brand. The campaigns portray her being both polished and laid-back, feminine with a little edge.

Paige Adams-Geller also used Paige as a platform for causes close to her heart including the National Eating Disorder Association and The Rape Foundation. Her history with anorexia and having experienced being raped as a teenager Adams-Geller drove her to create a brand that understands the needs of people with insecurities without prejudice.

The philanthropic element of the brand is worked through backbone of the brand, used as a frame for how they want to be perceived. In branding their ads and typography they chose to use bold lines with rounded edges that look both outgoing yet soft and feminine.

In the mirror Paige is style based, not trend oriented. They aim is to create a user base of repeated customers who can keep coming back to the brand for the staple pieces that they originally fell in love with. By using the founder as an icon for the brand wearers are able to feel like they are being spoken to directly. Their own struggles and insecurities are being addressed instead of covered up.

Their target and user group fall in the same range since they leave their style open to interpretation, between 16 and 30 upper-middle class women and men who have a feminine and mainstream approach to fashion. Reviewer rejoice over the fit and comfort holding the jeans in high regard for their “incredible shaping of the backside”. The regulars of the brand seem to have an intimate relationship with their Paige jeans, typically people whom have had trouble feeling comfortable shopping in the past who have finally come across a pair that seems to be tailor-made to highlight their assets.

Armani Jeans

Casual Chic Approachability, Quality €150 - € 500 Italy, 1981

39

Birth

Blood

Armani Jeans is a bridge-line brand in Giorgio Armani’s fashion empire. Armani founded the main brand Giorgio Armani in 1975 together with his business partner Sergio Galeotti. The first collection was received well as the clothes were considered revolutionary; He dressed the “power woman” in a suit and introduced a more natural fit. Besides four other sub-brands, Armani created the sub-brand Armani Jeans in 1981, focusing on denim and casualty.

This line was mainly developed in the realization that the youth culture at that time would be the fertile ground for fashion developments. These different lines within the Armani brand architecture help Giorgio Armani to operate in different market segments and different styles, creating the Armani lifestyle.

Armani Jeans works with high quality and innovative design elements. Armani introduces innovative treatments and unusual cotton blends such as hemp. However, these innovations are not executed on most items of the collections.

The materials, called “Comfort fabrics” containing cotton, polyester and elastane, most frequently. The materials are known for a more complicated wash than the other brands of Armani. Armani Jeans has a wide range of fits including skinny, regular, slim, super skinny, high waist and low waist.

The finishings are high quality, so are the materials. But “what you pay for, is what you get”, meaning that the jeans from the higher sub-brands are better quality. All the right back pockets of the jeans have the Armani logo stitched on them, which expresses the luxury and the supreme quality of the brand. The high range products have a little Italian flag, to show the heritage and again, the Italian quality, this details is mostly on hand stitched items. All these features express the idea of giving the customer a taste of the luxury brand. The collection contains Apparel, Bags, Shoes and Accessories, priced from €100.00 up to €500.00 for high range products such as jackets or hand made jeans. The brand is in the mid-high market segment.

Heart and soul Since Armani Jeans is a bridge-line, their Vision and Mission reflect that of their parent company. If the personality of the line and the ideas of Giorgio Armani would be combined, the vision would be, ‘Armani Jeans believes in comfort and approachability’ and the mission, ‘Armani Jeans provides a casual but chic look, to make the brand accessible for a broad audience’.

Armani Jeans sees themselves as the laid back, casual side of the Armani brand. The line includes fabric innovations and trends. Armani Jeans differentiates themselves by being a luxury brand while simultaneously being able to attract a new audience. They include a diversity of styles and introduce a younger target group to the Armani brand.

The brands’ first value is accessibility. Armani Jeans makes the Armani lifestyle available for the younger generation.

Therefore, the brand Armani as a whole becomes achievable through a diversity in style and price ranges. The second value is casual chic. The brands does have a “younger” look than the main Armani line, but they hold on to the sophisticated, iconic Armani style. Quality is an other value of Armani Jeans. The products are of a high caliber and stay true to the luxurious side of the brand.

Skin

Skin

Armani Jeans are sold in their own individual stores as well as in Emporio Armani stores. They are also sold in high end department stores such as the Bijenkorf. The Armani stores are either retail or franchises and are located on high end shopping streets, surrounded by other luxurious brands.

The brand also sells online within their own websites and on sites such as Zalando and ASOS. The new Armani stores have a much lighter interior stylse, using subtle and metallic colors, leathers and carpeting to enhance the idea of approachable luxury. The shop windows are clear and open to complement these features.

Armani works with modern furniture and decoration, using curved horizontal lines to make the stores look softer. The modernity also comes back in the use of displays in the center of the stores. The presentation of the products has a balance between accessibility and exclusivity. The items are presented clean and casual, but the size ranges, specifically the jeans, are limited.

decoration. Such are the logos, the modern version of an eagle expresses supreme quality and excellence and the overall look of the logo is coherent, containing just clear, capital letters. Also the packaging of the brand is clean and minimalistic.

Brain Armani Jeans has no Social Media to communicate with customers, they use print communication and tv commercials. The tv commercials were used until four years ago which always included a celebrity like Cristiano Ronaldo and Megan Fox. The use of celebrities with the same values gives a message to the consumer that makes them more likely to attribute integrity to the brand. The corporate identity of Armani Jeans is completely controlled by Armani himself. The brand uses a lot of black and white images, absent of bold colors and no text apart from the brand name.

The visual language is always a balance between casualty and sophistication concerning location and styling.

The staff is trained to provide the customer with a pleasant shopping experience. They have to follow a certain briefing concerning materials, fits, collections, history and sales advise. They also have to be able to determine what type of customer is entering their store and adjust their behavior and posture to that customer, always being sociable.

Including this appearance, the staff has to wear a uniform containing a suit for week days and a skirt in the weekend for women. The staff works either on the mens or women department according to what fits them better.

The font the brand uses expresses tradition, reliability and a modern touch. It is clear and consistent, without overdone

In the mirror The Armani Jeans consumer is the younger version of the Emporio Armani target group, who is the upper class professional. These women and men are trying to distinguish themselves from the crowd in a modest way, being classy and sophisticated. Since the Armani target group a bit younger, there income is usually lower. They are either still in college or in their first jobs. The Armani Jeans consumer is 18 to 30 years old and tries to follow the latest fashion trends. It is expected that this group of consumers will shift to the higher segments of the brand as they become older and gain a higher position in their career. The target group sees the brand as a symbol of status and success.

The difference between the target group and user group is that the user group is a bit younger. Typically wealthy city high school and college students 16-20, who use high end labels to achieve a certain status mostly with not selfearned money. This group also buys the Armani Jeans accessories more due to the affordable nature and visible labels. This user group uses the Jeans line to play up the luxury status of Armani.

Kapital

Vintage Crazy Craftmanship €200 - €300 Japan, 1984

41

Birth

Blood

The Japanese brand Kapital was founded by Toshikiyo Hirata in 1984. It was founded in Kojima, which is a city regarded as the “Denim Capital” in Japan. It is also the story of the name of “Kapital”. At the beginning, Kapital solely focused on denim, and was borrowing heritage production techniques from vintage American workwear.

However, with the expanded business, it now offers full range of clothing and accessories. Nowadays, Toshikiyo Hirata is still the president of Kapital, while his son Kiro is the head designer.

Kapital offers well-made denim jeans. It also merges heritage production techniques and detail-oriented craftsmanship.

Kapital’s clothing gives an idea of the warped traditional Americana and create the unique clothing. Unlike other companies, Kiro prefers to use men’s fabric for women’s clothing, and he likes raw denim. He wants everyone to have the clothing that is special from the others with adding people’s own personality.

Therefore, he introduced the Century Denim in 2012. Century Denim uses sashiko threads as a decorative reinforcement to strengthen Kapital’s 12 oz. denim, a method similarly used for hundreds of years in Japan to repair farm clothes.

The Kapital jeans do not have any arcuate stitch like many other brands do. The founder wants people to know the jeans were Kapital by its uniqueness instead of the stitches.

Kapital now has a full range of clothing offering. It is mainly targeting free stylish independents and its products are in the higher price range with ensured fabric quality, where normally between €200 - €300 for a jean.

Heart and soul Kapital states “To give back to the world what we have so graciously received, but with our own added KAPITAL touch” as their mission. As Kapital is a family company, the decision making is therefore more consistent to the original root of Kapital, which is the craftsmanship with the best quality. Both Toshikiyo and Kiro see their design as their children and give the most effort to their children in order to attain an A grade. They believe each clothing has its own personality, and that is shaped by the wearer as much as the designer. Therefore, Kapital gives a certain value on the independency of individuals. Kapital does not produce in a large quality, in order to maintain the exclusivity of its products.

Skin

Skin

Kapital is going global, there are stores all over the world, including Asia, Europe and America. It usually target at the main cities, where people with a higher living standard, such as Paris, New York and Hong Kong. However, Kapital sell their products in collection shops instead of having their own store, except for Japan.

Apart from on-site retailing, Kapital also has an official online store, but it only ship within Japan and the site is in Japanese only. There are also other online stores selling Kapital product, for example Haven and Mr Porter, and they also provide worldwide shipping.

Kapital stores in Japan give a very vintage atmosphere with the carved wooden furnitures. The store also encompasses many themes from many different eras with some vintage decorations. The products in store displayed casually but in a stylish way.

Besides, The blue hands logo of Kapital presents the craftsmanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hands. The craftsmanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hand will get blue while making denim, and this is the reason why it is in blue. The logo stressed the importance of craftsmanship in the brand.

Brain Kapital is not a brand that getting a lot of attention. However, it still has a Facebook page and an Instagram account. It shares the new products or news about the brand, and also provide a platform to communicate with supporters.

Apart from that, Kapital will release a lookbook each season, which are always described as very innovative and inspirational. The brand always deliver a vintage Americana mood and also adding some unique contemporary elements.

For instance, for the latest summer collection, entitled Fukkin Kountry brings a noticeably gritty and hard-edged feel for the brand. Continuing from some of the biker styles seen for F/W 15, designer Kiro Hirata injects a dose of sex, denim, and rock & roll with a collection loaded with studded denim jackets, slim rocker jean styles, and as expected, plenty of boro.

Oriented to the root style of Kapital, Staff in Kapital Stores also dresses like hippie, matching to the brand style. All in all, Kapital stores in Japan give a casual and relaxing vibe to customers.

.

In the mirror Kapital is targeting young hipster with a certain purchasing power, who is also willing to spend more on appearance, as the price range of Kapital products are relatively high. The uniqueness of Kapital clothing also suits the people who pursues independency and stand out from the crowd with a special personality.

Kapital has a good reputation generally by its fine quality and fabric, adherence on craftsmanship and bold yet inspiring design. Even some leading trend authority, such as WGSN, also keeping an eye on the movement of Kapital.

Momotaro

Durable raditional Premium €130 - €300 Japan, 2006

Birth

Blood

Momotaro Jeans was founded in Kojima Okayama, Japan in 2006. They started as a result of the fundamental belief to see jeans as a tool to create a certain lifestyle.

Okayama is a traditional textile center in Japan, where the finest Japanese denim fabrics are made with traditional techniques. Momotaro is part of the Japan Blue Company that uses these traditional techniques to produce an exquisite fabric. The Momotaro name comes from a Japanese legend, and refers to rejuvenation and vitality which allows the never ending persuasion of dreams.

Momotaro is a brand pursuing the dream to deliver “real jeans to the world”.

Momotaro jeans differentiates itself from the competitors by using high quality, raw materials and traditional techniques.

Momotaro uses the purest 100% Zimbabwe cotton which is characterized by its durable fiber structure and ability to retain dye coloring. The yarns are rope died with indigo.

This technique dyes the surface of the yarn only, which is important for the color fading. The deep signature Momotaro indigo color is achieved by a special technique.

During weaving, the warp yarn is left loose and creates a unique texture for the final fabric. Their shared signature elements, like hidden rivets, pink inseam cotton thread, pink and gold Momotaro selvedge ID, original branded Momotaro buttons, and deer skin leather waistband patches is what make the products immediately recognizable. The brand has 3 different lines; Copper label, Vintage label, and the Battle label that all have their distinctive characteristics.

Momotaro produces menswear only, but the collection range is broad. Jeans are the core products, but T-shirts, shirts and shorts are also part of the collection. The prices highly depend on the retailers and the target group. Generally, the jeans are priced between €130-€300 therefore the brand falls into the high market segment.

Heart and soul Momotaro believes in the artesian value of the jeans and therefore they place the quality of the denim and construction above all. Their mission is to deliver the highest quality jeans to the people who appreciate the product for its traditional values. In the core of the brand lies the uncompromised craftsmanship and exceptional quality of the products, which guarantee durability and a long lifespan.

Wearing a pair for several years makes it very unique and creates a special emotional attachment to the product.

This is why Momotaro perceives itself more as a lifestyle than a simple denim brand. Products are made to last, not to follow the trends. Their vision is to bring back the lost appreciation for craftsmanship.

43

Skin Momotaro’s distribution is mainly based on retailing meaning that the retail environment is controlled by the retailers instead of Momotaro. The jeans are available in limited retail outlets in Asia, Oceania, Europe, Canada and the USA. Momotaro also keeps four mono-stores in Japan.

Online order is not possible from their webpage, but there are several web shops that carry their lines. This varied retail strategy has a negative impact on the creation of a cohesive retail environment. In the owned stores, influenced by the location, the atmosphere is not consistent. The clean and simple display of the products is the same everywhere, but the furniture and colors differ.

In the two Okayama stores, the jeans hang in front of a red background in a wooden case, which makes a dramatic statement. Other items are either folded on wooden shelves or hanging on racks. The Kita Aoyama store (a high street shopping mall) looks more sophisticated. The main color is white and fewer products are displayed on steel racks, which create the feeling of luxury. Looking at their store designs it is clear that the retail environment changes according to the target customer.

Brain Momotaro does not use push marketing, but rather attracts the customers with the underlying values and lifestyle promises. They do not use paid advertising, besides their social media channels. Their Facebook page generates relatively high engagement with pictures of the products, style inspirations and announcements. On the Instagram account the engagement is also high, but the content is more product focused. Both platforms fail to convey a cohesive mood, a lifestyle or a target group. The visual language on these platforms is inconsistent. The several kinds of typography, the low quality pictures and the various mood images fail to convey a cohesive brand image. The tone of voice is informal. From the comments it is clear that the low level of English used in the captions bothers customers.

In spite of the inconsistent social media communication the core branding elements are well coordinated. The colorful logo with Momotaro, a character from the legend, is very distinctive, and represents their belief in rejuvenation. The labels are also distinctive, matches with the lines’ style but keep the basic brand image.

Momotaro itself is a character for the brand and appears on different platforms, which makes the brand recognizable.

Besides Momotaro, there is the peach symbol, which is also commonly used both on the products and on the labels. Having two logos associated with the brand might be confusing for customers. The slogan shows up in almost every article about the brand and sums up the value proposition very shortly “Made by hand without any compromise”

In the mirror The target group of Momotaro is the “young-at-heart adults” who do not buy jeans because of the fashion trends, but because of the added value and the ideology behind the product. The targeting is not based on demographics, but on lifestyle. The target group has their own way of living; more focused on life-experience than on following fashion trends. The main customer base is in Asia.

There is no big difference between the target group and user group. The user group is broader because Momotaro jeans are sold in retail outlets targeted to various customers. Although Momotaro products are classic in style, retailers target gentleman, riders, lumbers, premium market and denim heads also carry their jeans. This way Momotaro reaches a much broader audience than their defined target group. There is a substantial difference between the image communicated by the products and the image communicated through social media. Although the products are communicated as if they are of the highest quality, with social media their visual language they fail to communicate the same. In spite of this, Momotaro has become an iconic Japanese denim brand. The quality of their products speaks for itself and their distinctive branding elements make them recognizable.

RRL

Heritage Wild West Exclusive €275 - €549 USA , 1993

45

Birth

Blood

RRL is a US heritage brand offering a wide selection of southern-american oriented fashion, founded in 1993. The origins of RLL began with US designer Ralph Lauren who introduced his first item in 1981. Established in New York the same named brand grew exponentially, creating the capability to have multiple sub-brands, amongst-others RRL. Named after Ralph and Ricky Lauren’s “Double RL” Ranch in Colorado, RRL offers a mix of selvage denim and vintage apparel, still maintaining the focus on denim-wear.

In 1971 Lauren’s company went public on the New York Stock Exchange as the holding company “The Ralph Lauren Corporation”. In 2015 Stefan Larsson replaced the companies founder as CEO, leaving Ralph Lauren his full dedication to RRL.

The main characteristics of RRL products is an authentic worn-in finish. Each pair of RRL denim is constructed of Cone Mills selvage denim, that was developed exclusively for the brand. The ranges in weight start from 11.5 Oz. to 15.5 Oz. Fit-wise, the denim line comes in six options. Slim Fit, Slim Boot, Low Straight, Straight, Slim Straight and Button Tab. Each fit comes in multiple finishes and fades.

The named elements keep in line with the proposition of excusive quality products. Often located on the right hand pocket and leather patch, the logo is a recurring feature throughout the jean. Furthermore, the buttons and the inside of the right hand pockets are consistently branded.

Besides the denim collection RRL carries outerwear, knits, dress shirts, shorts, accessories, shoes and tuxedos. With prices ranging from € 275 to € 549, RRL is segmented as high-end brand.

Heart and soul RRL believes in capturing the authentic American spirit to provide a world of integrity and timeworn charm. With roots in American work wear and military gear, RRL provides traditional high-quality workmanship. Quality and durability form the fundament of a heritage based brand.

The brands personality is reflected in a modern tribute to the independent spirit of the untamed West, and the tireless resolve of the American worker. Limited accessibility and traditional detailing and production, communicate a tone of masculine nostalgia.

Skin

Skin

RRL presence in traditional brick-and-mortar stores is limited to a chosen flock of retailers across the globe.

At this moment the Ralph Lauren Cooperation operates a total retail number of 631 locations worldwide. However, RRL is only offered at the 179 distributed Ralph Lauren whole sale stores and seven RRL-exclusive stores. Retailers are located in selected cities, such as New York, Tokyo, Amsterdam and Berlin. The Broadway in New York or Elandsgracht in Amsterdam are one of the neighborhoods RRL tend too, as they are considered to be a younger and trendy environment. RRL is almost solely available for online-purchase on the Ralph Lauren online-store or highly acclaimed menswear stores like “Mr. Porter”.

The retail environment is mostly demin-tribe based. The retail spaces often share old and new characteristics.

Vintage, rough furniture is opposed to sleek Scandinavian influenced designs. However, the wholesale stores suggest a mix of the former gentleman-rooms and an industrial working studio. As a premium-denim brand, RLL items are displayed in an accessible matter. Commonly they do not share the displays and are hung up, to give full insight of the design.

Staff members are mostly in their mid twenties and styled in individual approach. As Denim is mostly followed by male customers, the gender in store also tends to men.

RRL is recognizable through three branding elements. The two “R’s” facing each other, are an reoccurring symbol through the products. Each newly bought jean comes with a tea-stained imprinted tag right beneath the leather brand tag. Natural colors and fibers throughout the branding, illustrate the importance of rugged aesthetics in their brand communication.

Brain Keeping in line with the thought of exclusivity, RRL does not have any social media channels on their own. It is rather an offline communication they pursue. The brand name and logo are tributes to Ralph Lauren’s working RRL cattle Ranch in Colorado, which is utilized as an exemplification of the soul and lifestyle within the brand. Concerning the identity, it is communicated through third-parties, such as the user-group or denim-heads. Forum, denim-specified blogs oriented Instagram accounts rank the most often used channels. Belonging all to highly connected tribes they maintain a coherent value proposal, coining into the brands identity. The brands own visual language draws upon a “old world” feel featuring RPPC & tin type style photographs, as well as early 1900s typography.

The tone of voice demands an above-average knowledge of denim wear. Descriptions are detailed, and create a holistic experience of values, production, quality and brand history. Retail assistants in RRL flagship stores are highly knowledgeable about the brand and its products, shows the importance of costumer-experience.

In the mirror RRL is a lifestyle brand. The Tribe is body and style conscious - they validate the big size range of RLL Jeans.

Ranging from the mid twenties to mid forties, they gather themselves around distinctive and unique styled people.

Their target customers do not just see wearing a jean as a small fashion statement but as an extension of the validation in quality and heritage. They are creatives with a hands on attitude and an above-average income. The financial security supports their capability to thrive for selected premium items in high-end concept stores or other niche markets. Precise in decision-making they are design and quality focused. The RRL tribe mainly lives in urban areas and believes in exemplary service. Elitist in their thought the carry a strong affinity to secrecy brand. With RRL being a relatively small niche market brand the user and target group do not differentiate. Eventually the brand established a loyal following of denim lovers and collectors. The word of mouth is affectionate and channels like social media or blogs are throughout positive.

Dsquared2

Creative Extravagant Bold €400 - €1200 Italy, 1994

47

Birth

Blood

DSquared2 was founded by Canadian twin brothers Dean and Dan Caten in 1994 in Milan, Italy. Their name comes from a play between the name of the two twins, Dean and Dan. It is squared, enhancing the energy and the creativity of the brand. Since 2000 it is owned by Staff International group. The Caten brothers are the brand’s icons, CEO’s and creative directors. After dropping out from Parson’s School in New York City in 1991 the two designers moved to Italy, where they worked as designers for Versace and Diesel, before securing financial backing from Renzo Rosso to build DSquared2. They launched the first men’s collection in 1994. The first womenswear collection was shown in February 2003 and the kids’ in 2013.

The products are an extension of the Caten’s own changing identities. Their main design characteristics are bold, contrasting and outdoorsy. details combined (fur-trimmed coats, plaid, chunky knits) with a glam-rock aesthetic (deconstructed corsets, biker jackets, hand-stitched denim).

Their fit is usually slim. They are known for their well-cut tuxedos, distressed low-waist denim, slogan T-shirts, leather bikers, sneakers, flashes of colors, animal prints, stiff fabrics, creased cottons. Fur, wood, horns are used as details. The design elements always refer to the brand’s origin: natural materials resembling to Canada, attention to details to Italy and edginess and urban feel to London.

Recently, the brand embraced more mature aesthetic.

DSquared2 use branded buttons, red tags with logo on the zipper and a label on the back with a logo and guarantee of quality, usually saying “Handcrafted with finest Italian hands” or “Top craftsmanship”. Their USP is also reflected in branding as they use embroidered maple leaf symbol referring to Canada. Their collection range consists of 3 lines: menswear, womenswear and kids wear. They offer RTW clothing collections, shoes, bags, perfumes, eyewear and accessories. Their price range of jeans is €400 - 1200 which places them in the high-end market segment as a premium denim label.

Heart and soul DSquared2 believe that jeans and tux lifestyle is the ultimate alternative luxury. They aim to create a fantasy by boldly mixing Canadian, Italian and London influences. Their personality is often equated with the brothers’, who represent the naughy, fun, dramatic, provoking but also sophisticated, sexy and accidentally chic attitude. DSquared2 perceive themselves as an iconic blend of Canadian wit and refined Italian tailoring combined with attention to details. They aspire to be sporty and glamorous, laid back and extravagant, masculine and feminine, all at the same time. There is a thin line between tacky and sexy, but they manage to make it work by combining the sexy elements with tough details like heels and pants instead of a mini skirt.The brand aspires to be sophisticatedly edgy while maintaining the sexiness embedded in their DNA.

Skin

Skin

DSquared’s distribution channels are their web shop and many international stores: a concept store in Milan, flagship stores in Milan, Paris, London, Madrid, St Moritz, Rome, Istanbul, Beverly Hills, Bal Harbour, New York, other stores in St. Moritz, Athens, Mykonos, Capri, Istanbul, Kiev, Cannes,Singapore, Paris, Nicosia and Hong Kong and brand boutiques to name a few.

Their future expansions will be focused on the American and Chinese markets. They are also present in department stores. The brand can be also bought online via the biggest retail sites like Nordstrom, Farfetch, Luisaviaroma and Shopbop. Their retail environment differs from the location and type of the store. Their early European stores are boldly decorated with rough-cut timber walls, moose antler chandeliers and plasma screen depicting a cracking fireplace whereas the new American and Asian stores have a minimalist look and feel with color palette of muted earth tones, forest scenary prints on the walls, polished steel shelves, wooden floors, whimsical horn lamps and very little displayed products.

The Catens’ have matured and so has their visual language.

The interiors are a statement of alternative elegance. The stores have an organic taste. The products are mostly displayed on shelves, where only a few products are shown to match their luxurious vibe.

DSquared2 uses simple and minimalist branding elements.

Their logo design ties directly into the name with square lettering that has been rounded for a friendly feeling.

A modern font creates a contemporary and distinctive masculine image that is definitely congruent with the brand image, with several of the letters such as the Q formed in unique and interesting ways. The last letter has either a small two on the upper right hand side or a normal number.

Their logo is always in black and white, which is often perceived as generic.

Brain They are active on social media. They use Facebook, Twitter and most importantly Instagram. They were hosted in America’s Next Top Model, have a monthly Sirius XM radio show and were hosting a fashion reality show “Launch My Line”. They also have their own series channel on Youtube called Catens uncut where they share the moments of their fashionable lives. DSquared2 used it to help expose the brand and their cheeky showmanship. They communicate their values by adding fun captions to photos on social media, tagging #D2 or #DSquared2 to raise brand awareness and the type of pictures they post. They try to be seen as fun, sexy, glamorous and irrelevant. Their tone of voice as well as visual language are witty, naughty and nice. They praise their celebrity friends whom they regularly post on their social media, which is a way of sharing their importance for status.

In the mirror They target extravagant alternatives with high income.

Their tribe is interested in art, music, theater. They look up to celebrities such as Madonna, Christina Aguilera or Kanye West. They are youthful, 25-40. They are interested in culture, history and classical craftsmanship but at the same time they are not afraid to be bold. They buy online and are influenced by social media.

There is a difference between target and user group though.

The users are mostly “branded style” hungry rich midaged professionals that are often seen as tacky and “gay”.

They mostly buy into the brand without the knowledge of DSquared2’s craftsmanship. Social media and online forums either praise the brand for their alternative edge or dislike them for the association with the “tasteless gay” brothers, the theatric presentation and the similarities with brands such as Gucci and D&G. There are also quite some inconsistencies regarding their communication on social media vs. in interviews.

Not supporting the “Instagram model” phenomenon or “celebrity turned supermondels” hey claim not to know who Kendall Jenner is but on the other hand post her pictures on their Instagram clearly praising her and being proud of the connection with her. They seem to have challenges in internal communication.

Conclusion Looking back to the 22 diverse denim brands, interesting and unexpected discoveries have been found. It can be suggested that there are several coherencies and regularities within the different price segments. The conclusion is divided within three smaller segments that incorporate the most profound outcomes. This structure was chosen as it provides a useful overview and gives the opportunity to compare the manifold brands and to better understand the dynamics of the current global jeans market as a whole.

The brands within the low-mid end of the denim market rank as the most environmentally conscious and promote sustainability through every aspect of the brand. For example, Nudie and Mud jeans are the most transparent brands in terms of publishing their climate footprint and being members of the fair-wear foundation. Regardless of the lower price charged for their garments the brand still incorporates recycled, organic VCI cotton into all of their ranges instead of opting for cheaper mass-produced unstainable materials.

Whereas brands that place their products in the higher price range of the market such as Guess and Dsquared2 donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t decisively state their environmental policies. Consequently, they are not as transparent about their personal contributions to helping the environment and what impact their brand has on it in terms of labour conditions and emission levels.

Overall there is a positive correlation between high market priced jeans scoring in the lowest sustainability bracket (Rank a Brand, 2016).

Determining that more powerful and influential brands have greater flexibility when it comes to environmental policies. Consumers who are more brand focused and product-orientated will disregard this aspect of the brand as the overall garment is their main concern and not how it was produced.

49

It is clear to see that the majority of jeans brands focus towards the mass market and cater to a more repetitive traditional design style.

This results in the consumer having a greater choice when it comes to choosing a brand but overall limited choice it terms of jeans style and differentiation. This indicates that the more niche end of the market has less options available, where the target the audience would expect more distinct and unique designs that differ from the mass market.

From the position matrix the gap in the market can easily be identified; there is a severe lack of contemporary design brands that price their products at the lower end of the market. Therefore, brands should consider this section of the market when considering branching out to a new target group.

It can be induced that brands position themselves in the higher end of the market due to the production process involved within the denim industry and the different stages that have to be undertaken for each individual garment. This increases as the design becomes more elaborate and â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;contemporaryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; therefore explaining the positive correlation regarding the increase in price.

Sources: Rank a Brand. (2016). Sustainability: Denim & jeans. [online] Available at: https://rankabrand.org/ sustainable-denim-jeans [Accessed 17 Sep. 2016].

High price Dsquared2 RRL Momotaro Kapital

Armani Jeans

Lee Levis Red Tab

Denham Vingino Scotch & Soda Gsus Guess

G Star Raw Diesel Contemporary

Traditional

Nudie

Paige Acne Studios

PME Legend Mud Jack & Jones Cheap Monday Only

Low price

Source-list Acne Studios Online Acne Denim Guide”. Dazed. N.p., 2009. Web. 13 Sept. 2016.

Acne Paper – Acne”. Acne. Web. 14 Sept. 2016.

Fashionbi.com. (2016). Related Info | Fashionbi. [online] Available at: https://fashionbi.com/info#market [Accessed 12 Sep. 2016].

PRODTextilia. (2016). Hoe gaat het met Armani Jeans?. [online] Available at: http://www.textilia.nl/Nieuws/ Hoe_gaat_het_met_Armani_Jeans-130808114500#.V9pJgngSUvI [Accessed 15 Sep. 2016].

Acne Studios - About”. Acnestudios.com. N.p., 2016. Web. 10 Sept. 2016.

Storelocator.armani.com. (2016). Store Locator. [online] Available at: http://storelocator.armani.com/us/ [Accessed 12 Sep. 2016]

Acne Studios (@Acnestudios) • Instagram Photos And Videos”. Instagram.com. N.p., 2016. Web. 12 Sept.

2016

Quora. (2016). Fashion and Style. [online] Available at: https://www.quora.com/Fashion-and-style-What-arethe-differences-between-Armani-Exchange-Emporio-Armani-and-Giorgio-Armani [Accessed 12 Sep. 2016].

Acne Studios Facebook”. facebook.com. N.p., 2016. Web. 12 Sept. 2016.

Scribd. (2016). Armani Marketing. [online] Available at: https://www.scribd.com/doc/18794047/ArmaniMarketing [Accessed 12 Sep. 2016]

Acne Studios Quai Voltarie | Bozarthfornell”. Bozarthfornell.com. N.p., 2016. Web. 12 Sept. 2016 Acne Studios Timeline”. WSJ. N.p., 2013. Web. 16 Sept. 2016.

ACNE Sweden Interview | Highsnobiety”. Highsnobiety. N.p., 2015. Web. 13 Sept. 2016.

“Companies”. Fair wear Foundation. N.p., 2016. Web. 14 Sept. 2016.

Hurtig, Johan. “En Historia Om Jeans Med Röda Sömmar (Eller Kanske En Acnedot?) | Roligt! Allt Som Är Kul Med Johan Hurtig | Cafe.Se”. Roligt! Allt som är kul med Johan Hurtig | Cafe.se. N.p., 2012. Web. 13 Sept.

2016.

Moore, Booth. “Acne Studios Opens 5,000-Square-Foot Store In Downtown L.A.”. latimes.com. N.p., 2013.

Web. 12 Sept. 2016.

Phelps, Nicole. “Acne Studio’S Jonny Johansson On Getting Out Of The Denim Box”. Vogue. N.p., 2014. Web. 13 Sept. 2016 Yaeger, Lynn. “How To Succeed In Fashion Without Trying Too Hard”. WSJ. N.p., 2013. Web. 13 Sept. 2016.

Books: Oaul, Roshnan. Denim Manufacture, Finishing And Applications. Cambridge: Woodhead Publishing, 2015. Print.

Reports: Acne Studios,. Acne Studios Social Report 2014/2015. Fair Wear Foundation, 2015. Print.

Armani jeans Online Alive.armani.com. (2016). ARMANI GROUP CORPORATE SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY AND SUSTAINABILITY POLICY – Armani. [online] Available at: http://alive.armani.com/us/pages/politica-del-gruppo-armani-per-lasostenibilita-e-responsabilita-sociale/ [Accessed 12 Sep. 2016] Biography.com. (2016). Georgio Armani. [online] Available at: http://www.biography.com/people/giorgioarmani-9188652 [Accessed 12 Sep. 2016].

Charlton, R. (2014). Brand Focus: Armani Jeans Style Guide. [online] Mainline Menswear Blog. Available at: http://www.mainlinemenswear.co.uk/blog/2014/brand-focus-armani-jeans-style-guide [Accessed 12 Sep. 2016].

Slideshare.net. (2016). Brand Audit-Armani. [online] Available at: http://www.slideshare.net/AnaPrietodeLe/ brand-auditarmani [Accessed 12 Sep. 2016].

S.p.A., G. (2016). History of Giorgio Armani S.p.A. – FundingUniverse. [online] Fundinguniverse.com. Available at: http://www.fundinguniverse.com/company-histories/giorgio-armani-s-p-a-history/ [Accessed 12 Sep. 2016].

Books Hang, K. (2006). The Denim bible. [Frankfurt/M.]: Dt. Fachverl.

Hines, T. and Bruce, M. (2001). Fashion marketing. Oxford: Butterworth-Heinemann.

Tungate, M. (2008). Fashion brands. London: Kogan Page.

Windels., (2009). Werken met woorden. 30 interviews met modeontwerpers. Antwerpen: Ludion.

Cheap Monday AllMusic. (2016). Grunge Music Genre Overview | AllMusic. [online] Available at: http://www.allmusic.com/ style/grunge-ma0000002626 .

Cheap Monday: Design and Head Quarter. (2016). [video] WGSN: WGSN Insider.

Cheapmonday.com. (2016). About - CheapMonday.com. [online] Available at: http://www.cheapmonday.com/ nl/About .

Cheapmonday.com. (2016). Cheap Monday Official Webshop - Shop Jeans & Clothes Online. [online] Available at: http://www.cheapmonday.com/nl/ .

Dando, E. (2016). Case Study - Cheap Monday. [online] Dandoeleanorglobalsourcing.blogspot.nl. Available at: http://dandoeleanorglobalsourcing.blogspot.nl/2015/02/case-study-cheap-monday.html .

Digit Pro. (2012). International success of the Cheap Monday. [online] Available at: http://www.digitpro. co.uk/2012/06/21/international-success-of-the-cheap-monday/ .

Dormoy, G. (2009). Cheap Monday, chic denim. [online] LExpress.fr. Available at: http://www.lexpress.fr/ styles/mode/cheap-monday-chic-denim_739177.html .

Ghag, P. (2016). Retail store layout,design and display. [online] Slideshare.net. Available at: http://www. slideshare.net/prithvighag/retail-store-layoutdesign-and-display .

Goldfingle, G., Bowden, G. and Goldfingle, G. (2012). H&M’s brand new approach. [online] Retail Week.

Available at: https://www.retail-week.com/sectors/fashion/hms-brand-new-approach/5035594.article .

Collective Evolution. (2016). Hemp vs Cotton: The Ultimate Showdown. [online] Available at: http://www. collective-evolution.com/2013/07/17/hemp-vs-cotton-the-ultimate-showdown/ [Accessed 14 Sep. 2016].

Reed, C. (2016). Analysis Article: Cheap Monday - the anti religious jeans brand. [online] LinkedIN. Available at: https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/cheap-monday-anti-religious-jeans-brand-chris-j-reed .

Fashionbi.com. (2016). About Armani Jeans | Fashionbi. [online] Available at: https://fashionbi.com/brands/ armani-jeans/info [Accessed 12 Sep. 2016].

Retail Design Blog, (2016). Cheap Monday Store Copenhagen. [image] Available at: http://retaildesignblog. net/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/Cheap-Monday-store-by-Uglycute-Copenhagen.jpg .

51

Retail Minded. (2009). The Impact of Store Lighting. [online] Available at: https://retailminded.com/retailstore-lighting/ .

Facebook.com. (2016). Security Check Required. [online] Available at: https://www.facebook.com/Diesel [Accessed 14 Sep. 2016].

Reuters UK. (2016). UPDATE 1-H&M buys rest of Monki, Cheap Monday brand owner. [online] Available at: http://uk.reuters.com/article/hm-idUKLDE6AN08D20101124 .

Fashiongear.fibre2fashion.com. (2016). Diesel Breganze Italy - Diesel Stores, Deisel Online Clothing Stores. [online] Available at: http://fashiongear.fibre2fashion.com/brand-story/diesel/thecompany.asp [Accessed 12 Sep. 2016].

WGSN Insider. (2016). Inside Cheap Monday. [online] Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/blogs/insidecheap-monday/ .

Fashiongear.fibre2fashion.com. (2016). Diesel History, Diesel Brand History, Diesel Denim History, Diesel Clothing History. [online] Available at: http://fashiongear.fibre2fashion.com/brand-story/diesel/history.asp [Accessed 12 Sep. 2016].

Denham

Forsuccessfulliving.diesel.com. (2016). Diesel magazin. [online] Available at: http://forsuccessfulliving.diesel. com/de/ [Accessed 12 Sep. 2016].

Denham the Jeanmaker (2014) DENHAM PSYCHO - explicit remake. Available at: https://www. youtube.com/watch?v=IpHU6TkqWjs (Accessed: 10 September 2016).

Denham the Jeanmaker (2015) THE JEANMAKER - remake. Available at: https://www.youtube. com/watch?v=CgaWQtrQr2w&spfreload=10 (Accessed: 10 September 2016).

Denham (no date) Denham online shop. Available at: https://www.denhamthejeanmaker.com (Accessed: 11 September 2016).

LaCertosa, B. (2016) ‘Denham Customer and Staff Interviews’.

LLC, J. (2014) Jason Denham, Jeanmaker. Available at: http://jeanstories.com/the-stories/jasondenham-jeanmaker/ (Accessed: 12 September 2016).

Pavarini, M.C. (2014) Stories: Denham to open further stores in Germany, Japan and Australia.

Available at: http://www.sportswear-international.com/news/stories/Denham-to-open-furtherstores-in-Germany-Japan-and-Australia-8515 (Accessed: 14 September 2016).

Instagram.com. (2016). Diesel (@diesel) • Instagram photos and videos. [online] Available at: https://www. instagram.com/diesel/ [Accessed 14 Sep. 2016].

Kazia, K. (2016). Diesel Product Development. [online] De.slideshare.net. Available at: http://de.slideshare. net/katerinakazia/diesel-proudct-development [Accessed 14 Sep. 2016].

Staff and customers in Diesel store. (2016). .

Store.diesel.com. (2016). About diesel. [online] Available at: http://store.diesel.com/magazine/en/world-ofdiesel/about-diesel/ [Accessed 12 Sep. 2016].

The Jeans Blog. (2014). The History Of Diesel Jeans. [online] Available at: http://thejeansblog.com/denimbrand-history/the-history-of-diesel-jeans/ [Accessed 13 Sep. 2016].

Tompkins, M. (2012). Diesel Presentation. [online] De.slideshare.net. Available at: http://de.slideshare.net/ modernmichelle/diesel-presentation-13044751 [Accessed 14 Sep. 2016].

Shuck, D. (2015) Soap nuts - Denham’s new way to wash jeans. Available at: http://www.heddels. com/2015/07/soap-nuts-denhams-new-way-wash-jeans/ (Accessed: 20 September 2016).

Dsquared2

Tafreschi, J. (2014) Stories: Report: Amsterdam Denim days. Available at: http://www.sportswearinternational.com/news/stories/Report-Amsterdam-Denim-Days-8276 (Accessed: 12 September 2016).

24 Savile Row, Double vision. From: http://www.24savilerow.com/location/fashion/double-vision.php. [retrieved 13.9.2016 ].

Travi, P. (2014) Jason Denham, founder of Denham - studio visit and interview. Available at: http:// www.heddels.com/2014/01/jason-denham-founder-denham-studio-visit-interview/ (Accessed: 12 September 2016).

Trotman, S. (2014) WGSN Insider Global Denim Awards. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/ blogs/amsterdam-celebrates-the-first-annual-global-denim-awards/ (Accessed: 11 September 2016). van Loon, E. (2008) Eigen merk Jason Denham. Available at: http://www.fashionunited.nl/Nieuws/ Leads/Eigen_merk_Jason_Denham_2008091217721/ (Accessed: 13 September 2016).

Diesel Aguiarlar, S. (2016). Diesel’s mission statement and brief history. [online] Steveaguilarmkt081.blogspot. nl. Available at: http://steveaguilarmkt081.blogspot.nl/2011/09/diesels-mission-statement-and-brief.html [Accessed 13 Sep. 2016].

British GQ. (2016). The GQ guide to denim. [online] Available at: http://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/article/gqguide-to-denim-washing-storage-mens-jeans-fits [Accessed 14 Sep. 2016].

Elders, T. (2016). Tom Elders · Diesel Denim Training. [online] Tomelders.com. Available at: http://www. tomelders.com/projects/diesel-denim-training [Accessed 13 Sep. 2016].

AbCd. 2011. DSquared2. From: http://abcd-fashion.com/index.php/brands/item/20-dsquared2. [retrieved 13.9.2016 ].

Amed, I. 2015, Inside DSquared2 at Twenty Years. From: https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/bofexclusive/bof-exclusive-inside-dsquared2-twenty-years. [retrieved 13.9.2016 ].

BoF, Dean and Dan Caten. From: https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/people/dean-dan-caten. [retrieved 13.9.2016 ].

Bonigala, M. Clash Of The Logos: Denim Edition. From: https://www.spellbrand.com/clash-of-the-logosdenim-edition. [retrieved 13.9.2016 ].

Burley, I. DSquared2 AW13. From: http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/15706/1/dsquared2-aw13. [retrieved 13.9.2016 ].

Code and Theory, Projects: DSquared2. From: http://www.codeandtheory.com/thingswe-make/dsquared2. [retrieved 13.9.2016 ].

Europe Real estate, DSquared2 opens first flagship store in London (IT/UK). From: http://europe-re.com/ dsquared2-opens-first-flagship-store-london-ituk/44432. [retrieved 13.9.2016 ].

Eytan, D. 2015. Interview: Dsquared2’s Dean &amp; Dan Caten Discuss Their 20 Years In Business. From: http://www.forbes.com/sites/declaneytan/2015/03/11/dsquared2sdean-dan-caten-about-their-20-yearsin-business/#3e9bc27b93f7. [retrieved 13.9.2016 ].

Griffin, E. 2013. Dsquared2 AW13 Campaign. From: http://www.fashionbeans.com/2013/dsquared2-aw13campaign/. [retrieved 13.9.2016 ].

Hang, K. (2006). The Denim Bible Jeans Encyclopedia III. Sportswear International. Kamen, P. 2014. Dean and Dan Caten Live the Dream in London and Milan. From:http://www.envisionmagazine.ca/tag/dsquared2/. [retrieved 13.9.2016 ].

Massaboutique, The brand: DSquared2. From: https://www.massaboutique.eu/thebrand/dsquared2/. [retrieved 13.9.2016 ].

NyMag, DSquared2. From: http://nymag.com/thecut/fashion/designers/dsquared2/. [retrieved 13.9.2016 ].

Pitti Imagine Bimbo, At Pitti Bimbo the new collection S/S 2016. From: http://www.pittimmagine.com/en/ corporate/fairs/bimbo/news/2015/disquared.html/. [retrieved 13.9.2016 ].

Shaitly, S. 2012. Dsquared2 interview: Double vision. From: https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2012/ jul/15/qsquared2-interview-double-vision. [retrieved 13.9.2016 ].

Tschorn, A. 2014. DSquared2 is growing. But is it growing up? Dan and Dean Caten answer. From: http://www. latimes.com/fashion/la-ig-dsquared2-store-20141019-story.html. [retrieved 13.9.2016 ].

Tschorn, A. 2014. Dsquared2 opens first U.S. flagship on Rodeo Drive. From: http://www.latimes.com/ fashion/alltherage/la-ar-dsquared2-opens-first-us-flagship-on-rodeodrive-20140918-story.html. [retrieved 13.9.2016 ].

Universita Bocconi, Case study: DSquared2. https://www.coursera.org/learn/mafash/lecture/tznJd/casestudy-dsquared2. [retrieved 13.9.2016 ].

Facebook.com. (2016). Security Check Required. [online] Available at: https://www.facebook.com/ gsusofficial/?fref=ts [Accessed 16 Sep. 2016].

G-sus.com. (2016). gsus | officiële online shop. [online] Available at: http://www.g-sus.com [Accessed 11 Sep. 2016].

G-sus.com. (2016). Journal > Style magazine | gsus. [online] Available at: http://www.g-sus.com/en_NL/ journal.html [Accessed 16 Sep. 2016].

Instagram.com. (2016). @gsus_official • Instagram photos and videos. [online] Available at: https://www. instagram.com/gsus_official/ [Accessed 16 Sep. 2016].

Raes, J. (2011). Gsus 2.0 Gsus pakt de draad weer op.

Somo, (2004). Gsus Clothing industries. Coporate Social responsibilaty (CSR). [online] Available at: https:// www.somo.nl/wp-content/uploads/2004/11/GSUS-Company-Profile.pdf [Accessed 10 Sep. 2016].

Store, M. (2016). In store interview with store manager.

Timmermans, M. (2014). Generatie Zenz - ‘De intuïtieve en spirituele jongeren van nu’. [online] Young and Holy.

Available at: http://www.youngholy.nl [Accessed 16 Sep. 2016].

Twitter.com. (2016). gsus (@gsus_official) | Twitter. [online] Available at: https://twitter.com/gsus_official [Accessed 16 Sep. 2016].

Yeu, H. (2013). Pssst, Gsus is terug.

G-Star Raw Bourne, C. (2007). G-Star Raw Spring 2008 New York Fashion Week Review. [online] Meniscus Magazine.

Available at: http://www.meniscuszine.com/articles/20070906780/g-star-raw-new-york-fashion-weekspring-2008/ [Accessed 11 Sep. 2016].

Charlton, R. (2014). The Story of G-Star Raw. [online] Menswear Style. Available at: http://www.menswearstyle. co.uk/2014/05/14/the-story-of-g-star-raw/1136 [Accessed 14 Sep. 2016].

Fashion USP. (2009). Top Brands of Designer Jeans. [online] Available at: http://www.fashionusp.com/topbrands-of-designer-jeans.html [Accessed 11 Sep. 2016].

G-Star. (2015). STAQ. [online] Available at: https://www.g-star.com/en_gb/staq/index.htm#system [Accessed 14 Sep. 2016].

G-Star. (2016). Jeans. [online] Available at: https://www.g-star.com/nl_nl/collection/dames/jeans?fh_sort_ by=-price [Accessed 11 Sep. 2016].

G-Star. (n.d.). G-Star Raw About Us. [online] Available at: https://www.g-star.com/en_gb/corporate/index. htm [Accessed 11 Sep. 2016].

Russel, M. (2015). G-Star RAW pushes the boundaries of denim. [online] Just-style. Available at: http://www. just-style.com/interview/g-star-raw-pushes-the-boundaries-of-denim_id125703.aspx [Accessed 11 Sep. 2016].

Vallet, J. (n.d.). G-Star Raw: history and origin of the brand. [online] Jeans and Denim. Available at: http://www. jeans-and-denim.com/history-jeans-g-star-raw/25/y-6/ [Accessed 14 Sep. 2016].

Wilson, K. (2013). Introduction to Audience. [online] Mediaknowall. Available at: http://www.mediaknowall. com/gcse/keyconceptsgcse/keycon.php?pageID=audience [Accessed 16 Sep. 201

Guess Aldrich, Rachel. “Here’s a Reason Why Guess? (GES) Stock Is Slumping Today.” TheStreet. 01 Sept. 2016.

Web. 16 Sept. 2016.

“GUESS? Launches Premium Denim.” PR Newswire (1998): 1. Web. “GUESS?, INC.” NASDAQ. UNITED STATES SECURITIES AND EXCHANGE COMMISSION, 16 Jan. 2016. Web. “GUESS | Official Online Store.” GUESS | Official Online Store. Web. 16 Sept. 2016.

“GUESS Partners With Cotton Incorporated’s Blue Jeans Go Green™ Program By Launching A Denim Recycling Campaign This Fall - The Business Journals.” Widgets RSS. Web. 16 Sept. 2016.

Krupnick, Ellie. “Claudia Schiffer Guess Campaign Marks Brand’s 30th Anniversary (PHOTOS).” The Huffington Post. TheHuffingtonPost.com, Web. 16 Sept. 2016.

Krupnick, Ellie. “Guess vs. Gucci Trademark Case Heats Up In Court (PHOTOS).” The Huffington Post.

TheHuffingtonPost.com. Web. 16 Sept. 2016.

MEDINA, By MIGUEL. “Guess? Cool or Uncool? - Page 3 - the Fashion Spot.” The Fashion Spot RSS. Web. 16 Sept. 2016.

Quarterly Report: Guess reports Loss of $US25.2m Corporate Wire Date: 20 June 2016 00:37 EDT 2016, Melbourne.

Riley-Katz, A. 2009, “Guess Returns Focus To Denim”, WWD, vol. 197, no. 111, pp. 6-n/a.

Sarkisian-Miller, Nola. “DENIM, ACCESSORIES BUOY SALES AT GUESS.” WWD 189.100 (2005): 15. Web.

Gsus Colourcake.com. (2010). Work. [online] Available at: http://colourcake.com/en/work/14/gsus-sindustries. html [Accessed 6 Sep. 2016].

53

“The New York Stock Exchange.” NYSE. Web. 16 Sept. 2016.

Momotaro CLUTCH Magazine (2016) Available in 7 retail stores in Paris alone! Momotaro Jeans’ new global strategy, Clutchmag Japan URL: http://www.clutchmagjapan.com/en/journal/1454097382 (Accessed: September,11 2016)

Danforth, C. (2012) The 101: Momotaro jeans, Hypebeas, URL: https://hypebeast.com/2012/4/the-101momotaro-denim (Accessed: September,12 2016) Huggins, R. (2013) A Reader’s Story: Getting Into Japanese Denim – My First Momotaro’s, Rope Dye, URL: https://www.ropedye.com/2013/06/a-readers-story-getting-into-japanese-denim-my-first-momotaros/ (Accessed: September,13 2016) Jeans Lover’s Trip Channel (2015) YouTube, URL: a) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=saMXW1U1wuc b) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3bmIWxumJIc (Accessed: September,13 2016) Kyle (2014) A Look At Zimbabwe Cotton with Full Count’s Mikiharu Tsujita, Heddels URL: http://www.heddels. com/2014/04/look-zimbabwe-cotton-full-counts-mikiharu-tsujita/ (Accessed: September,12 2016) Lalier, D. (2013) The History Of And Story Behind Momotaro Jeans, Heddels, URL:http://www.heddels. com/2013/04/the-history-of-and-story-behind-momotaro-jeans/ (Accessed: September,10 2016) Momotarojeans.com (2016) URL: www.momotarojeans.net (Accessed: September,10 2016) Okayamadenim.com (2016) URL: http://www.okayamadenim.com/collections/momotaro-jeans (Accessed: September,11 2016) Selvedge Style (2014) URL: 2016)

http://selvedgestyle.com/thread/160/momotaro (Accessed: September,13

Jack and Jones -, (2016). Low Impact Denim: Less Distress. [Blog] Rope Dye. Available at: https://www.ropedye.com/2013/01/ low-impact-denim-less-distress/ [Accessed 16 Sep. 2016].

Bestseller, (n.d.). About Bestseller. [online] Bestseller. Available at: http://about.bestseller.com/about-us/ourcompany [Accessed 11 Sep. 2016].

Bestseller, (n.d.). History. [online] Extranet. Available at: http://extranet.uv.khs.dk/materiale/Bestseller_ China/www/Bestseller/history.htm [Accessed 14 Sep. 2016].

Prasoon, (2015). Spring Summer Collection - Jack & Jones (blogger preview). [Blog] Mauve Moustache.

Available at: http://www.mauvemoustache.com/occasions/spring-summer-collection-jack-jones-bloggerspreview/ [Accessed 12 Sep. 2016].

Retail Design Blog, (2015). Jack & Jones store by Riis Retail, Copenhagen – Denmark. [Blog] Retail Design Blog. Available at: http://retaildesignblog.net/2015/02/16/jack-jones-store-by-riis-retail-copenhagendenmark/ [Accessed 13 Sep. 2016].

Store Employee Jack & Jones, (2016). Jack & Jones Target Group vs User Group.

Store Employee Jack & Jones, (2016). What is Jack & Jones about?.

The Denim Daily x Jack & Jones. (2015). [video].

Van Schaik, B. (2016). Must have! Premium by Jack & Jones spring 2016. [Blog] Bastiaan van Schaik. Available at: http://www.bastiaanvanschaik.com/2016/01/06/must-have-premium-by-jack-jones-spring-2016 [Accessed 12 Sep. 2016].

Kapital jeans HARRIS, J. (2013) The 50 greatest Japanese brands of all time. Available at: http://uk.complex.com/ style/2013/01/the-50-greatest-japanese-brands-of-all-time/kapital (Accessed: 16 September 2016).

KAPITAL (2015) KAPITAL. Available at: http://kapital.jp/ (Accessed: 16 September 2016).

Lukacek, J. and The Bandanna Almanac (2012) Interview | Kapital – Kiro and Toshikiyo Hirata – past, present, and century Denim…. Available at: https://bandanna-almanac.com/2012/06/02/interview-kapital-kiro-andtoshikiyo-hirata-past-present-and-century-denim/ (Accessed: 16 September 2016).

Lukacek, J. (2012) Kapital | century Denim. Available at: https://bandanna-almanac.com/2012/07/13/ kapital-century-denim/ (Accessed: 16 September 2016).

Lukacek, J. (2014) Kapital osaka store. Available at: https://bandanna-almanac.com/tag/kapital-osaka-store/ (Accessed: 16 September 2016).

Blue Line, (n.d.). Blue Line Denim. [online] Blue Line Group. Available at: http://www.blueline-denim.com [Accessed 15 Sep. 2016].

Ropedye (2016) Century Denim by Kapital. Classic thinking with new technology. Available at: https://www. ropedye.com/2016/03/century-denim-kapital-classic-thinking-new-technology/ (Accessed: 16 September 2016).

Egly, J. (2016). Multi-Channel-Retailing Analyse: Jack & Jones. [online] Webspotting. Available at: http://www. webspotting.de/e-commerce/multi-channel-retailing-analyse-jack-jones/ [Accessed 15 Sep. 2016].

Standard (2016) Kapital - century Denim, Sashiko and more from Kojima. Available at: https:// standardandstrange.com/collections/kapital (Accessed: 16 September 2016).

Jack & Jones Design - with Paul Thompson. (2014). [video].

Time Out Tokyo (2016) Kapital legs. Available at: http://www.timeout.com/tokyo/shopping/kapital-legs (Accessed: 16 September 2016).

Jack & Jones, (2014). Learn how Jack & jones jeans have become more eco-friendly. [Blog] The Blog by Jack & Jones. Available at: http://www.jackjonesblog.com/en/learn-how-jack-jones-jeans-have-become-ecofriendly/ [Accessed 12 Sep. 2016].

Trotman, S. (2016) The new Kapital denim S/S16 lookbook is provocative, exciting and NSFW. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/blogs/kapital-presents-new-ss16-lookbook/ (Accessed: 16 September 2016).

Jack & Jones, (n.d.). About Us. [online] Jack & Jones. Available at: http://www.jackjones.com/gb/en/jj/aboutus/ [Accessed 10 Sep. 2016].

Unionmade (2016) UNIONMADE - Kapital. Available at: https://unionmadegoods.com/brands/kapital/ (Accessed: 16 September 2016).

Jack & Jones, (n.d.). Commitments. [online] Jack & Jones Protect. Available at: http://jackjonesprotect.com/ commitments/ [Accessed 10 Sep. 2016].

Worship Blues (2014) | shop | Kapital Denim Tokyo. Available at: http://www.worshipblues.com/2014/07/

Jack & Jones, (n.d.). Jeans. [online] Jack & Jones. Available at: http://www.jackjones.com/gb/en/jj/jeans/ [Accessed 10 Sep. 2016].

shop-kapital-denim-tokyo.html (Accessed: 16 September 2016).

Jack & Jones, (n.d.). The Blog. [online] Jack & Jones Blog. Available at: http://www.jackjonesblog.com/en [Accessed 10 Sep. 2016].

Miller, D. (2013). Jack & Jones. [online] Prezi. Available at: https://prezi.com/nupu0ub2ascy/jack-jones/ [Accessed 13 Sep. 2016].

Kings of Indigo King of Indigo, Brand Stories [online] Available at: http://www.kingsofindigo.com/en_NL/brand-landing.html (Accessed 11 September 2016) King of Indigo, About us [online] Available at: http://www.kingsofindigo.com/en_NL/about-us.html (Accessed 11 September 2016) King of Indigo, Store Locator [online] Available at: https://www.kingsofindigo.com/en_NL/stores (Accessed 11 September 2016) Fair Wear Foundation KOI international [online] Available at: http://www.fairwear.org/528/company/koi_ international_b_v/?companyId=231 (Accessed 13 September 2016) Social Report Kings of Indigo, (2015) Fair Wear Foundation Available at: http://demandware.edgesuite.net/aatv_ prd/on/demandware.static/-/Sites-KOI-Library/default/dwedc1aad0/PDF/KingsofIndigosocialreport2015. pdf (Accessed 13 September 2016).

Varova Website (2014) Available at: http://www.varova.nl/portfolio/Current-investments/KOI.html (Accessed 13 September 2016)

Unkown. (2016). Lee Jeans Instagram Case Study | DEG. [online] DEG. Available at: http://www.degdigital. com/work/lee-jeans-instagram/ [Accessed 13 Sep. 2016]. vfc.com. (2016). Lee : VF Corporation (VFC). [online] Available at: http://www.vfc.com/brands/jeanswear/ lee#strategy-innovation [Accessed 13 Sep. 2016].

BOOKS Steele, V. (2010). The Berg companion to fashion. Oxford: Berg.

Image Logo: Lee, (unkown), Logo [online]. Available at: react-text: 354 http://www.corporateimagesinc.com/ /reacttext [Accessed 16 September 2016].

Retail Environment: Lee, store Amsterdam, [own image] Detail: Lee, (2013), Jeans Detail [online]. Available at: react-text: 361 http://www.lee.nl/product/marionstraight/L301AAML /react-text # [Accessed 15th September 2016]

Kings of Indigo Tumblr. (2015) Available at: http://kingsofindigo.tumblr.com/post/142745696615/kings-ofindigo-at-the-amsterdam-denim-days (Accessed 13 September 2016)

Campaign: Lee, (2016), Lee advertisement campaign [online]. Available at: react-text: 366 http://www. denimfuture.com/.../have-you-seen-this-move... /react-text [Accessed 16th September 2016] Gsus

Trotman, S. (2013) ‘Kings os Indigo Pop up Store Amsterdam’ Available at: http://www.wgsn.com/blogs/ kings-of-indigo-pop-up-store-amsterdam/ (Accessed 13 September 2016)

Colourcake.com. (2010). Work. [online] Available at: http://colourcake.com/en/work/14/gsus-sindustries. html [Accessed 6 Sep. 2016].

Wilson, M. (2012) ‘All Hail The Kings Of Indigo’ Available at: https://www.ropedye.com/2012/01/koi/ (Accessed 13 September 2016)

Facebook.com. (2016). Security Check Required. [online] Available at: https://www.facebook.com/ gsusofficial/?fref=ts [Accessed 16 Sep. 2016].

Jonkeren, Y. (2014) ‘In Gesprek met Tony Tonnaer’ Available at: http://thedenimdaily.com/gesprek-met-tonytonnaer-king-indigo/ (Accessed 15 September 2016)

G-sus.com. (2016). gsus | officiële online shop. [online] Available at: http://www.g-sus.com [Accessed 11 Sep. 2016].

Denim Future (2012) ‘Amsterdam Denim’ Available at: http://www.denimfuture.com/read-journal/amsterdam-denim-k-o-i-kings-of-indigo (Accessed 13 September 2016)

G-sus.com. (2016). Journal > Style magazine | gsus. [online] Available at: http://www.g-sus.com/en_NL/ journal.html [Accessed 16 Sep. 2016].

‘Hoe duurzam is Kings of Indigo?’ (2015) Available at:https://www.rankabrand.nl/duurzame-jeansspijkerbroek/Kings+of+Indigo (Accessed 13 September 2016) Van Soom, R. (2016) ‘Kings of Indigo’ Available at: http://www.thejourneyofruth.com/kings-of-indigo/ (Accessed 14 September 2016)

Instagram.com. (2016). @gsus_official • Instagram photos and videos. [online] Available at: https://www. instagram.com/gsus_official/ [Accessed 16 Sep. 2016].

Raes, J. (2011). Gsus 2.0 Gsus pakt de draad weer op.

Somo, (2004). Gsus Clothing industries. Coporate Social responsibilaty (CSR). [online] Available at: https:// www.somo.nl/wp-content/uploads/2004/11/GSUS-Company-Profile.pdf [Accessed 10 Sep. 2016].

Store, M. (2016). In store interview with store manager.

LEE Broaster, Q. (2016). Qori Broaster on Dropr. [online]Dropr.com. Available at: http://dropr.com/.../lee_jeans_ secondary_research.../+... [Accessed 10 Sep. 2016].

Davis, J. (2016). Lee Jeans: From Food Manufacturer to Denim Innovator. [online] Ropedye.com. Available at: https://www.ropedye.com/2011/12/lee-eng/[Accessed 13 Sep. 2016].

Timmermans, M. (2014). Generatie Zenz - ‘De intuïtieve en spirituele jongeren van nu’. [online] Young and Holy.

Available at: http://www.youngholy.nl [Accessed 16 Sep. 2016].

Twitter.com. (2016). gsus (@gsus_official) | Twitter. [online] Available at: https://twitter.com/gsus_official [Accessed 16 Sep. 2016].

Yeu, H. (2013). Pssst, Gsus is terug.

Halzack, S. (2016). What Wrangler and Lee have learned from long hours of watching you shop for jeans. [online] Washington Post. Available at: https://www.washingtonpost.com/.../what-wrangler-and-lee.../ [Accessed 11 Sep. 2016].

Levi’s Red Tab

Sanyal, S. (2016). Global Denim Market Study ..... [online] Scribd. Available at: https://de.scribd. com/.../12686.../Global-Denim-Market-Study [Accessed 10 Sep. 2016].

Biography.com. (2016). Levi Strauss Biography. [online] Available at: http://www.biography.com/people/levistrauss-9496989#success-in-the-west [Accessed 18 Sep. 2016].

Rooney, J. (2008). Lee Jeans’ Cahill Keeps the Conversation Going. [online] Adage.com. /Available at: http:// adage.com/.../lee-jeans-cahill-conversation/126925/ [Accessed 11 Sep. 2016].

Flue, D. (2016). How I live in my Levi’s 501. [online] Debiflue.com. Available at: https://debiflue. com/2016/05/20/how-i-live-in-my-levis-501/ [Accessed 18 Sep. 2016].

55

Highsnobiety. (2016). Levi’s Continues Its “Live in Levi’s” Campaign With “We Are 501”. [online] Available at: http://www.highsnobiety.com/2016/02/13/levis-live-in-levis-spring-2016-campaign/ [Accessed 18 Sep. 2016].

Highsnobiety. (2016). Levi’s Made & Crafted Draws Inspiration From the Desert for SS16. [online] Available at: http://www.highsnobiety.com/2016/02/02/levis-made-crafted-ss16-preview/#slide-21 [Accessed 18 Sep. 2016].

Jorissen, S. (2016). RUFFLES TREND. [online] radishtowear. com/2016/06/23/ruffles-trend/ [Accessed 18 Sep. 2016].

Available

at:

http://radishtowear.

Kleynen, J. (2016). Employee Levi’s Store.

Langstons.com. (2016). Levi’s Numerology - A Levi’s Jeans Style and Fit Guide. [online] Available at: http:// www.langstons.com/levis-numerology.html [Accessed 18 Sep. 2016].

Levi Strauss. (2016). Raw Materials - Levi Strauss. [online] Available at: http://levistrauss.com/sustainability/ production/raw-materials/ [Accessed 18 Sep. 2016].

Levi.com. (2016). [online] Available at: http://www.levi.com/US/en_US/about/our-company [Accessed 18 Sep. 2016].

Liem, B. (2016). Levi’s Love. [online] Benthe Liem. Available at: https://bentheliem.com/2016/06/04/levislove/ [Accessed 18 Sep. 2016].

Nilwik, C. (2016). Employee Levi’s Store.

Oldmagazinearticles.com. (2016). Levi Strauss Blue Jean Article. [online] Available at: http://www. oldmagazinearticles.com/Levi_Strauss_Creator_of_Blue_Jeans_History#.V973F8fy1o4 [Accessed 18 Sep. 2016].

Peopalove. (2016). A Globally Lovable Brand Personality. [online] Available at: http://www.peopalove.com/ brandtalk/2015/jan/brand-sense.html [Accessed 18 Sep. 2016].

Scribd. (2016). Marketing Strategy Levis Strauss & Co.. [online] Available at: https://www.scribd.com/ doc/40343160/Marketing-Strategy-Levis-Strauss-Co [Accessed 18 Sep. 2016].

Shop.vam.ac.uk. (2016). Levi’s and the Evolution of Youth Culture. [online] Available at: https://shop.vam. ac.uk/whatson/index/view/id/2933/event/Levi-s-and-the-Evolution-of-Youth-Culture/dt/2016-09-09/ eType/1/free/2 [Accessed 18 Sep. 2016].

UK Essays. (2015). What Are Levis Unique Resources And Core Competence Marketing Essay. [online] Available at: https://www.ukessays.com/essays/marketing/what-are-levis-unique-resources-and-core-competencemarketing-essay.php [Accessed 18 Sep. 2016].

Yohn, D. (2015). How Levi’s Became a Brand With Staying Power. [online] Entrepreneur. Available at: https:// www.entrepreneur.com/article/243412 [Accessed 18 Sep. 2016]

Momotaro CLUTCH Magazine (2016) Available in 7 retail stores in Paris alone! Momotaro Jeans’ new global strategy, Clutchmag Japan URL: http://www.clutchmagjapan.com/en/journal/1454097382 (Accessed: September,11 2016)

a) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=saMXW1U1wuc b) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3bmIWxumJIc (Accessed: September,13 2016) Kyle (2014) A Look At Zimbabwe Cotton with Full Count’s Mikiharu Tsujita, Heddels URL: http://www.heddels. com/2014/04/look-zimbabwe-cotton-full-counts-mikiharu-tsujita/ (Accessed: September,12 2016) Lalier, D. (2013) The History Of And Story Behind Momotaro Jeans, Heddels, URL:http://www.heddels. com/2013/04/the-history-of-and-story-behind-momotaro-jeans/ (Accessed: September,10 2016) Momotarojeans.com (2016) URL: www.momotarojeans.net (Accessed: September,10 2016) Okayamadenim.com (2016) URL: http://www.okayamadenim.com/collections/momotaro-jeans (Accessed: September,11 2016) Selvedge Style (2014) URL: 2016)

http://selvedgestyle.com/thread/160/momotaro (Accessed: September,13

Mud Blaauboer, R. (2016). Frankwatching - Cookies. [online] Frankwatching.com. Available at: https://www. frankwatching.com/archive/2013/06/08/een-spijkerbroek-koop-je-niet-die-lease-je/ [Accessed 9 Sep. 2016].

Bots, J. (2016). Mud Jeans. [online] Branchecontact.nl. Available at: http://www.branchecontact.nl/ inhoudsprogramma-duurzaam-bezoekers/405-mud-jeans [Accessed 12 Sep. 2016].

Eerlijk waar! Rains, mud jeans. (2016). Eerlijk waar! Rains, mud jeans. [online] Available at: http://www. eerlijkwaar.net/ [Accessed 10 Sep. 2016].

Facebook.com. (2016). Facebook Mud Jeans NL. [online] Available at: https://www.facebook.com/ MudJeansNL/ [Accessed 8 Sep. 2016].

FaillissementsDossier.nl. (2016). Faillissement voor duurzame modelabel Mud Jeans. [online] Available at: http://www.faillissementsdossier.nl/nieuws/3320/faillissement-voor-duurzame-modelabel-mud-jeans.aspx [Accessed 11 Sep. 2016].

Geitenwollenwinkel. (2016). Geitenwollenwinkel | Duurzame online shop. [online] Available at: https://www. geitenwollenwinkel.nl/ [Accessed 10 Sep. 2016].

Host-concept.be. (2016). H O S T. [online] Available at: http://host-concept.be/ [Accessed 15 Sep. 2016].

Instagram.com. (2016). MUD Jeans (@mudjeans) • Instagram photos and videos. [online] Available at: https:// www.instagram.com/mudjeans/ [Accessed 8 Sep. 2016].

More, s. (2013). 22/01/2013: Circular economy as our new economic model!? / Was gibt’s Neues? / Neuigkeiten / Willkommen bei Soil & More International! - Soil and More. [online] Soilandmore.com. Available at: http://soilandmore.com/index.php/ger/News-Events/What-is-going-on/22-01-2013-Circular-economyas-our-new-economic-model! [Accessed 12 Sep. 2016].

MUD JEANS. (2016). BEHIND THE SEAM - MUD JEANS. [online] Available at: http://www.mudjeans.eu/behindthe-seam/ [Accessed 7 Sep. 2016].

MUD JEANS. (2016). MUD Jeans. [online] Available at: http://www.mudjeans.eu/nl/ [Accessed 7 Sep. 2016].

Danforth, C. (2012) The 101: Momotaro jeans, Hypebeas, URL: https://hypebeast.com/2012/4/the-101momotaro-denim (Accessed: September,12 2016)

MUD JEANS. (2016). Sustainability - MUD Jeans. [online] Available at: http://www.mudjeans.eu/about/ sustainability/ [Accessed 7 Sep. 2016].

Huggins, R. (2013) A Reader’s Story: Getting Into Japanese Denim – My First Momotaro’s, Rope Dye, URL: https://www.ropedye.com/2013/06/a-readers-story-getting-into-japanese-denim-my-first-momotaros/ (Accessed: September,13 2016)

Pranabanana. (2015). Review: Mud jeans | Pranabanana. [online] Available at: http://www.pranabanana.nl/ review-mud-jeans-duurzaam-eerlijk-en-awesome/ [Accessed 9 Sep. 2016].

Jeans Lover’s Trip Channel (2015) YouTube, URL:

PRODTextilia. (2016). De comeback van Mud Jeans. [online] Available at: http://www.textilia.nl/Nieuws/de_ comeback_van_mud_jeans-121004133200#.V9wWZZiLTb0 [Accessed 13 Sep. 2016].

Project JUST. (2016). Mud Jeans: ethics, sustainability, labor rights data by JUST. [online] Available at: http:// projectjust.com/brand_mudjeans/ [Accessed 8 Sep. 2016].

Rankabrand.org. (2016). brand_profile_title. [online] Available at: https://rankabrand.org/sustainable-denimjeans/Mud+Jeans [Accessed 10 Sep. 2016].

Terborg, R. (2013). Fashion Behind The Scenes || Mud Jeans Campaign. [video] Available at: https://www. youtube.com/watch?v=XdpCji7Amp4 [Accessed 14 Sep. 2016]. the Guardian. (2016). Five key lessons from Mud Jeans in building a circular startup. [online] Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/sustainable-business/2016/apr/03/five-key-lessons-from-mud-jeans-inbuilding-a-circular-startup [Accessed 14 Sep. 2016].

THE POP UP STORES. (2016). Mud Jeans POP UP Store - THE POP UP STORES. [online] Available at: http:// www.thepopupstores.nl/event/mud-jeans-pop-store/ [Accessed 14 Sep. 2016].

Nudie Borromeo, L. “A Swedish denim label wants to change the way we wear our jeans”. Theguardian.com, 2014. https://www.theguardian.com/sustainable-business/nudie-swedish-denim-label-jeans, [retrieved September 15 2016].

Bjork, J. “Going 100% organic, Nudie Jeans inspires change in the denim industry”. Goodlifer.com, 2013. http://www.goodlifer.com/2013/01/going-100-organic-nudie-jeans-inspires-change-in-the-denimindustry/, [retrieved September 14].

“Ciau Palle!”. Fashionswiftnow.org, 2015. http://www.fashionshiftnow.org/single-post/2015/02/24/CIAOPALLE-The-man-behind-Nudie-Jeans-or-how-destiny-helped-us-meet-a-great-guy, [retrieved on September 14 2016].

Dustin, J. “Nudie Jeans Grim Tim – 2 Years Wear Review” Denimology.com, 2014. https://denimology. com/2014/01/nudie-jeans-grim-tim-review, [retrieved on September 13 2016].

ONLY Ad Forum (2016).Only jeans - The Liberation by UncleGrey - Web Site [online] AdForum.com Available at: http://www.adforum.com/creative-work/ad/player/34477710/the-liberation/only-jeans [Accessed 14 Sep. 2016].

BESTSELLER (2016). Our Company [online] aboutbestseller.com Available at:http://about.bestseller.com/ about-us/our-company [Accessed 15 Sep. 2016].

Facebook ONLY (2016). Facebook ONLY [online] facebook.com Available at:https://www.facebook.com/ONLY/ [Accessed 15 Sep. 2016].

FashionUnited nieuws (2016). Bestseller FashionUnited nieuws [online] fashionunited.nl Available at: http:// www.fashionunited.nl/nieuws/bestseller.htm [Accessed 11 Sep. 2016].

Fashion United (2011). Waterproof spijkerbroek van Only [online] fashionunited.nl Available at: https:// fashionunited.nl/v1/show/waterproof-spijkerbroek-van-only/201112204767 [Accessed 15 Sep. 2016]. instagram.com (2016). ONLY (@only_official) [online] Instagram.com. Available at: https://www.instagram. com/only_official/ [Accessed 14 Sep. 2016].

Loon.E (2015). Bestseller doneert 15 miljoen [online] Branchecontact.nl. Available at: http://https:// fashionunited.nl/nieuws/mode/bestseller-doneert-15-miljoen/2015041723423 [Accessed 13 Sep. 2016].

Only kleding shop je online bij jeansinn.nl (2016) Only kleding shop je online bij [online] jeansinn.nl Available at: http://www.jeansinn.nl/only-mf-56.html [Accessed 14 Sep. 2016].

ONLY (2016). ONLY [online] Only.com Available at: http://www.only.com/nl/nl/home [Accessed 12 Sep. 2016].

Rank A Brand (2016). ONLY and sustainability: D-label | Buy sustainable brands [online] Rankabrand.org.

Available at: https://rankabrand.org/sustainable-denim-jeans/ONLY [Accessed 15 Sep. 2016].

Zalando.nl (2016). ONLY Kleding online kopen | ZALANDO | Gratis verzending [online] Zalando.nl Available at: https://www.zalando.nl/kleding/only/ [Accessed 16 Sep. 2016].

Fished, A. “Observer Ethical Awards W2015 Winners”. Theguardian.com, 2015. https://www.theguardian. com/environment/2015/jul/02/observer-ethical-awards-2015-winners-nudie-jeans, [retrieved September 16 2016].

Henderson, P. “Need to know: Nudie”. Mrporter.com, 2012. https://www.mrporter.com/journal/journal_ issue48/5#1, [retrieved September 11 2016].

Arnold, S.R. (2014) ‘The Role Model: Paige Adams-Geller’, Los Angeles Magazine (September), p. 58.

Hotchkiss, S. “Going Khak and Never Going Back”. Gq.com, 2011. http://www.gq.com/story/going-khak-andnever-going-back-interview-with-nudie-jeans-palle-stenberg [retrieved 11 September 2016].

Paige Bodansky, N. (2014) Paige Denim takes us inside its brand new laser process. Available at: http://hypebeast. com/2014/5/paige-denim-takes-us-inside-its-brand-new-laser-process (Accessed: 16 September 2016).

King, S. (2016) The secret to wearing jeans the Rosie Huntington-Whiteley way. Available at: http://www. whowhatwear.co.uk/rosie-huntington-whiteley-paige-denim-campaign (Accessed: 12 September 2016).

Vine, R. “Why you should never, ever wash your jeans”. Theguardian.com, 2014. https://www.theguardian. com/fashion/2014/oct/24/why-you-should-never-ever-wash-your-jeans-unless-you-really-really-have-to, [retrieved September 14 2016].

LaCertosa, B. (2016) ‘Paige Jeans Customer Interviews’.

Wang, L. “Premium Denim’s Tentative Comeback”. Businessoffashion.com, 2016. https://www. businessoffashion.com/articles/news-analysis/premium-denims-tentative-comeback, [retrieved September 12].

LMNOP Design Inc (2015) LMNOP Design Inc Paige Denim Project Management + Construction. Available at: http://www.lmnopdesigninc.com/paige-denim/ (Accessed: 13 September 2016).

“Your pair of Nudie jeans”. Mainlinemenswear.co.uk, 2016. https://www.mainlinemenswear.co.uk/competitions/ nudie-jeans, [retrieved September 11 2016].

LaCertosa, B. (2016) ‘Paige Jeans Customer Service Review’.

National Eating Disorder Association (2015) NEDA News.

Paige (2016) Advertisement, Nylon Magazine, 14 August, p. 105 Paige (no date) Facebook (PAIGE Denim). Available at: https://www.facebook.com/paigedenim/ (Accessed: 14 September 2016).

Paige (no date) Instagram (@paige). Available at: https://www.instagram.com/paige/ (Accessed: 19 September 2016).

57

Paige (no date) Pinterest (paigedenim). Available at: https://www.pinterest.com/paigedenim/ (Accessed: 12 September 2016).

commander [Accessed 13rd September 2016].

Paige (2016) Welcome to Paige! Gift Inside!, paige@os-email.com.

Paige Denim (2004) Paige Available at: http://www.paige.com (Accessed: 13 September 2016).

Philipkoski, K. (2012) Ask the brand: Paige Denim - IFB. Available at: http://heartifb.com/2012/03/01/askthe-brand-paige-denim/ (Accessed: 13 September 2016).

Reiter, G. (2015) ‘Denim Made in The US’, Gretchen’s Closet, 11 February. Available at: http://grechenscloset. com/denim-made-in-us/ (Accessed: 13 September 2016).

Spackman, A. (2015) ‘With Paige Adams-Geller’, Elle Australia (March), p. 62.

Thornton, D.I. (2014) DESIGNER ENCYCLOPEDIA - PAIGE. Available at: http://www.donnaida.com/denimclinic/designer-encyclopedia/paige/ (Accessed: 13 September 2016).

RRL N.p., 2016. Print.

Thefashionisto.com. N.p., 2016. Web. 17 Sept. 2016.

Bakker, Hendrik. RRL Research. 2016. in person.

Bojer, Thomas Stege and Josh Sims. Blue Blooded. Print.

De Primo, Dennis. N.p., 2016. Web. 16 Sept. 2016.

Tschorn, A. (2015) ‘Premium Denim’, Los Angeles Times, 14 August, p. 105.

“Index - Ralph Lauren”. Flagships.ralphlauren.com. N.p., 2016. Web. 20 Sept. 2016.

Yelp (2013) Paige Denim - upper west side - upper west side - Manhattan, NY. Available at: https://www.yelp. com/biz/paige-denim-upper-west-side-manhattan-2 (Accessed: 12 September 2016).

“MR PORTER | Designer Fashion For Men”. MR PORTER. N.p., 2016. Web. 16 Sept. 2016.

PME Legend Alex Trost and Vadim Kravetsky (2014) 100 of the Most Popular Jeans Brands [Online book] U.S, Jeans Label.

Available from: https://books.google.co.il/books?isbn=1492758876 [Accessed 12th September 2016].

“Ralph Lauren Store Locations - About Ralph Lauren”. www.ralphlauren.com. N.p., 2016. Web. 16 Sept. 2016.

“RL Profile | Ralph Lauren Corporation Common Stock - Yahoo Finance”. Finance.yahoo.com. N.p., 2016. Web. 16 Sept. 2016.

“RRL - Ralphlauren.Com”. Ralphlauren.com. N.p., 2016. Web. 20 Sept. 2016.

“Tenue De Nîmes”. Tenuedenimes.com. N.p., 2016. Web. 15 Sept. 2016.

Denim Club India (2015) PME Legend Brand [Online] Available from: https://www.denimclubindia.org/rsrc/ wsitePg/wsite_disp.asp?item_id=538 [Accessed 14th September 2016].

Theroux, Paul and Gilles Chabaneix. “Ralph Lauren’S Colorado Ranch | Architectural Digest”.

Architectural Digest. N.p., 2016. Web. 16 Sept. 2016.

Facebook page (2016) PME Legend official page [Online] Available from: https://www.facebook.com/ PMELegend [Accessed 13rd September 2016].

Van Erkilin, Suzanne. RRL Research. 2016. in person.

High Street App (2015) PME Legend [Online] Available from: http://www.highstreetapp.com/landing-page/ just-brands [Accessed 14th September 2016].

Instagram page (2016) PME Legend official page [Online] Available from: https://www.instagram.com/ pmelegend/ [Accessed 13rd September 2016].

Just Brands (2016) Just Brands official website [Online] Available from: https://www.justbrands.nl/en/ company.html [Accessed 14th September 2016].

K.Mano (September 2012) PME Legend Bare Metal Jeans. FashionUnited.nl [Online] Available from: http:// www.fashionunited.nl/Nieuws/Columns/PME_Legend_Bare_Metal_Jeans_2012090537210 [Accessed 14th September 2016].

Linkedin company profile (2016) Just Brands [Online] Available from: https://www.linkedin.com/company/ just-brands [Accessed 13rd September 2016].

Maria Hunstig (October 2013) PME Legend extends cinema advertising. Sportswear-International [Online] Available from: http://www.sportswear-international.com/news/stories/PME-Legend-extends-cinemaadvertising-7460 [Accessed 14th September 2016].

Margreet Anches (December 2015) Binnenkijken: de eerste PME Legend-winkel in Antwerpen.

Textilia.nl [Online] Available from: http://www.textilia.nl/Nieuws/Binnenkijken_de_eerste_PME_Legend_ winkel_in_Antwerpen_fotoreportage-151210073000#.V9518pgrK00 [Accessed 14th September 2016].

Official brand website (2016) PME Legend shop [Online] Available from: www.pmelegend.com [Accessed 13rd September 2016].

PME Legend online-series (2016) PME [Online] Available from: http://www.pme-legend.com/discover/the-

“World Of Ralph Lauren - United States”. Global.ralphlauren.com. N.p., 2016. Web. 16 Sept. 2016.

Scotch and Soda Anon, (2016). [online] Available at: https://static1.squarespace.com/static/544787dbe4b0f2487388de6e/ t/5451024ae4b0361094b17f1e/1414595146592/Ipad_communicatieplan_AOfinal.pdf [Accessed 10 Sep. 2016].

Anon, (2016). Amsterdam Denim Capital. [online] Available at: http://www.htnk.nl/files/press/stylesight.pdf [Accessed 12 Sep. 2016].

Buis, A. (2016). Kijken: the Blauw Kitchen van Scotch & Soda. [online] Fashionunited.nl. Available at: https:// fashionunited.nl/nieuws/retail/kijken-the-blauw-kitchen-van-scotch-soda/2016011225358 [Accessed 10 Sep. 2016].

Country Attire. (2016). Scotch & Soda Amsterdams Blauw Denim Collection AW15 | Country Attire. [online] Available at: http://www.countryattire.com/journal/2015/07/scotch-soda-amsterdams-blauw-denimcollection/ [Accessed 12 Sep. 2016].

Denim Future. (2016). SCOTCH & SODA Amsterdam Couture. [online] Available at: http://www.denimfuture. com/read-journal/scotch-and-soda-amsterdam-couture [Accessed 12 Sep. 2016].

Instagram.com. (2016). Scotch & Soda (@scotch_official) • Instagram photos and videos. [online] Available at: https://www.instagram.com/scotch_official/?hl=en [Accessed 16 Sep. 2016].

Jansen, C. (2016). [online] Available at: http://www.vedis.org/userfiles/documenten/302_graduation_report_ jansen_4016068.pdf [Accessed 11 Sep. 2016].

LinkedIn. (2016). Scotch&Soda. [online] Available at: https://www.linkedin.com/company/scotch-&-soda [Accessed 12 Sep. 2016].

Radovic, K. (2016). Scotch & Soda | Branding magazine. [online] Branding magazine. Available at: http://www. brandingmagazine.com/2011/09/14/scotch-and-soda/ [Accessed 12 Sep. 2016].

Ropedye.com. (2016). Scotch & Sodaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Amsterdams Blauw Presents The Alchemy Blues. [online] Available at: https://www.ropedye.com/2014/08/scotch-sodas-amsterdams-blauw-presents-alchemy-blues/ [Accessed 12 Sep. 2016].

Scotch & Soda. (2016). A bit about us | Official Scotch & Soda Webstore. [online] Available at: https://www. scotch-soda.com/us/en/a-bit-about-us.html [Accessed 11 Sep. 2016]. â&#x20AC;&#x192;

Vingino De Bijenkorf, Vingino Online Sales From: http://www.debijenkorf.nl/kindermode/vingino [last accessed: Wednesday 14 September, 2016] Unknown, 2013, Alles over kledingmerk Vingino From: http://www.mamaplaats.nl/alles-over-vingino/ [last accessed: Thursday 15 September 2016] Unknown, 2011, Vingino Jeans: een knap staaltje ondernemerschap of geluk From: http://www.leerwiki.nl/ Vingino_Jeans%3A_een_knap_staaltje_ondernemerschap_of_geluk [Last accessed: Friday 16 September, 2016] Unknown, 2015, Vingino opent eerste winkel From: http://www.bengels.nl/Nieuws/Vingino_opent_eerste_ winkel-150312104744 [last accessed: Thursday 15 September 2016] Vingino From: https://www.vingino.com/[last accessed: Friday 16 September, 2016] Vingino, About From: https://www.vingino.com/en/vingino-story [last accessed: Friday 16 September, 2016] Vingino, Dealers & Press From: https://www.vingino.com/en/dealers-press [last accessed: Thursday 15 September 2016] Vingino, Facebook Vingino, Instagram From: https://www.instagram.com/vinginojeans/ [last accessed: Thursday 15 September 2016] Vingino, Love for Denim From: https://www.vingino.com/en/we-love-denim [last accessed: Thursday 15 September 2016] Vingino, Stores From: https://www.vingino.com/en/stores [last accessed: Thursday 15 September 2016] Vingino, Twitter From: https://twitter.com/vinginojeans [last accessed: Thursday 15 September 2016] Vingino, Youtube From: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCFczlc2OOmTvDt6S7v61SOw [last accessed: Thursday 15 September 2016] Wehkamp, Vingino Online Sales From: http://www.wehkamp.nl/kinderen/vingino/totale-collectie-vingino/ C23_VIN_KE6/ [last accessed: Wednesday 14 September, 2016] Interview van Namen, M., 2016, Vingino Employee Interview, 11 September

59