Issue 148 by Ami Magazine

RENEE AND ELKY BRING YOU THEIR FAVORITE WAYS TO WARM AND NOURISH IN ONE BOWL

ISSUE 148 DECEMBER 18, 2013 15 TEVES 5774

Soup Season

Find your favorite way to warm up. Clean dishes not included.

It’s 11:48 p.m. as I sit down to write this column for our Soup Issue. I’ve just finished cleaning my kitchen (including the ever present soup pot this time of year). My kitchen is spotless, but my hands feel yucky from washing dishes. Let’s back up a bit. Back in September, my dairy dishwasher stopped working (yes, again). Some of you might remember last year, when my feeling-unappreciated dishwasher (a.k.a. dish dirtier) decided to stage a protest. I have not been kafuy tov since. I have one of those models that has two separate drawers (I use one for meat and one for dairy), so it only fits a few dishes at a time. Still, I am very appreciative when dishes actually come out clean. Mike, the appliance repairman, said that my dishwasher needed a new motor. So we ordered a motor. All this took some time, and I was washing dairy dishes for a while. Someone had a very wise suggestion for me: I should cook only meat dinners. Yes, wise, but that wouldn’t work in my house right now. First, because my next book is called Dairy Made Easy. Next, because dairy dinners make the entire family very happy. Soon after, though, with its new motor, my dishwasher was working again. It was making weird sounds, but the dishes were coming out cleaner than ever. Until the night before my Chanukah party. Here’s the scene: I’m cooking, and the pots, pans, and mixing bowls are piling up in my sink. Time to load up the dishwasher, right? All of a sudden, the meat dishwasher starts making these weird, funky, obnoxious sounds, and it won’t stop. The

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DECEMBER 18, 2013

dairy dishwasher below it is just dead and won’t turn on at all. I have to shut the fuse to get some quiet. Very problematic. A) I’m expecting more than 50 people tomorrow, and I still have to prepare half my menu. What am I going to do with all my dirty pots and bowls? (Solution: Hide them in the laundry room.) B) I didn’t buy disposables. I decided I’m not spending money on them and that I’ll use real dishes for the adults. I don’t like disposable anyway. I personally prefer eating on a real dish. I only began buying plastic cups this year for the first time in my life. My six- and seven-year-olds were complaining that they’re too old for sippy cups (and too young to take a glass every time they want a drink). C) I didn’t tell my cleaning lady to come. I know that she doesn’t like to work on Sundays since it’s her only day off. She complains when the women of the other houses she works in ask her to come on Sunday. So I decide I’ll live with the mess until she comes Monday morning so that I can keep her loyal. I have chosen a great day to be a martyr. Mike comes on Tuesday to give me the official diagnosis. The dishwasher, a”h, is dead. That’s it. Eight years of constant use. It lived its life span. Not worth repairing. It makes me feel strange to think that I’m old enough to have an appliance that needs to be replaced. Buying new appliances is something my mother does. Not me. I’m too young. My kitchen is brand new! (Well, eight years old...but it could totally pass for a younger model). So now what? There’s no way I’m getting another two-drawer model. Now

15 TEVES 5774

that this dude is dead, I’m going full-size. And two dishwashers are non-negotiable. Meat and dairy. But where do I put the second? “There are portable dishwashers,” Mike says. “You can stick them anywhere there is plumbing.” “Like in the laundry room?” ( Just imagine carrying the pots and dishes after half my meals to another room that’s not even adjacent to the kitchen.) “Why don’t you put it right here?” he asks, pointing to a set of drawers next to the sink. “These are 24 inches, the same size as a dishwasher. And it’s right next to the plumbing.” Two full-sized dishwashers? That would be a total life-changer. It’s going to have to be. Stat. So after our Lakewood Whisk Contest semi-finalist photo shoot last Monday, I stop into Town Appliance on Clifton. Are two full-sized dishwashers really going to happen for me? I guess we’ll see next week. In the meantime, it’s been 24 hours since I first sat down to write this letter. And I have a sink full of dishes to tackle... including another soup pot. About those soups...we have lots for you in this issue. When they're all finished up, whether you stick your pot in a nice roomy dishwasher, scrub it yourself, or hide it until the cleaning lady comes, I’m sure you’ll find a soup you love with these favorites from both Renee and Elky. Enjoy! Victoria Dwek victoria@amimagazine.org

reader's kitchen More Readers Inspired byBasya and Devoiry Dear Edior: When I saw the first articles in the “Girl on a Diet” series, I was reluctant to read them. After reading a few articles, I saw that Basya and Devoiry were struggling with ambivalence about self-image, what to eat, societal expectations, and interactions with friends and family. It was not just about the food. While the numbers told a powerful story of self-control and perseverance, the journal entries described doubts, groping for emotional equilibrium and searching for Hashem’s help in their lives. My challenges and goals were the same. Other diet methods, too numerous to mention, had not been sufficiently effective for me. Intense davening was in order. I was intrigued that Devoiry’s entries did not specify a menu. Interesting. I looked up the Grey Sheet diet. The plan looked simple enough. The simplicity made it seem clear and doable. Additionally, I was inspired by a friend who described important personal changes she had experienced from using this food plan. On September 12, I started. Surprisingly, I have been able to stick to it without a problem; I have actually not been physically hungry between meals at all. I ran it by my primary care doctor, who said it looked fine for me. I took occasional questions to a diet doctor, who was encouraging. My guess is that for me—and I can speak only for myself—the grains had apparently been creating an “artificial” craving to eat more and more. With this new plan, that need to nibble and nosh between meals is gone. Going to the gym or swimming four or five days a week has certainly helped in many ways. In the past eight weeks I have lost 11 pounds, b”H. It’s only a beginning, but I think I can stay with this food plan, which is healthy, feels comfortable, and works. Food issues now occupy a smaller, more normal place in my life. Acquiring self-discipline in relation to food has had a ripple effect, giving me confidence to effect positive changes in other areas of my life. Hakaras hatov to Basya and Devoiry for writing about so many deeply personal dimensions of their efforts. They are inspiring many people to become healthier—mentally and emotionally as well as physically. Most of all, thank You, Hashem. Anonymous

by Pnina Rose While I’ve become used to the types of foods I need to eat since I learned that I was glutenintolerant, the most troublesome part of my adjustment process has been the need to prepare two different meals, one for my family and one for myself. I might get away with one meal when we’re eating chicken or meat, but it just so happens that a love of milchig runs in the family. Every Thursday night, my family expects a steaming lasagna to come out of the oven, loaded with ricotta and mozzarella. Add a salad on the side, and I can serve the one-dish supper and get on with my Shabbos preparations. If I wanted to eat also, it wasn’t so easy. I’d have to prepare two separate lasagnas, one with a glutenfree alternative. When I saw Landau’s Corn and Rice Pasta on the shelf, I put it in my cart. That night I used it to make one lasagna. And everyone was happy, including me. Since then, I’ve replaced regular noodles with corn and rice pasta to make other weeknight pasta dinners, and also lukshen kugel for Shabbos. It cooks for less time, but I drain it, add the eggs and sugar, and bake it just like a regular kugel. And of course, we now have cheese lukshen kugel for kiddush too. What makes the corn and rice pasta taste so good? By combining grains rather than relying on one replacement, Landau’s has made a pasta that tastes more like wheat pasta. Now milchig lovers, pasta lovers, those who have celiac, and their families can all enjoy it together.

SOUP SEASON The Whisk soup issue has arrived just when we’re craving these dishes. And Renee and Elky have delivered exactly what you asked for. First, Renee shows you how to prepare flavorful soups with only the most natural ingredients. Then Elky brings us satiating, nourishing soups, some of which work as a complete meal. You’ll find one that you love.

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I couldn’t have picked a better day to write about soup if I tried. It is snowing outside. Have you ever noticed how our lives are forced to slow down when it snows? And how nice and quiet it gets? I love that. I can stand in my yard listening to the silence. The snow falls steadily, and it doesn’t rush either; it will get there in time. Snow will always remind me of my homeland. At the age of 16, I was studying in a seminary in the heart of Switzerland (the school system in Lugano ended after tenth grade), and on the list of chores the students had to complete was something called “shoveling snow.” (No, there were no day laborers there.) I used to trade every other job for that one. I’d much rather be outdoors shoveling the never-ending path and steps up to the entrance. It sometimes took hours, but I really enjoyed that time outdoors in the crisp weather, with the sound of the powdery snow pressing under my boots. And I also enjoyed the TLC that the cook, Mrs. Guttman, gave me once I was done. A steaming hot pot of fresh vegetable soup was always awaiting me. It didn’t matter if it was eight a.m.—soup just made sense. When we shot these photos, it was still November. At that point we were eating soup after raking leaves from our yards. Now December is here and we are still eating soup. Shoveling snow or not, soup will always be there to ease the long, cold winter months. Buon appetito, Renee renee@amimagazine.org

A TAVOLA 15 TEVES 5774 | DECEMBER 18, 2013 | by Renee Muller • photos by Morris AntebiW H I S K

This soup freezes well. When defrosting, reblend using the immersion blender to restore creaminess.

Malawach pinwheels

This is another color-coded soup that is part of our rotation. We never tire of it. Thick and silky, it’s always a favorite.

MALAWACH PINWHEELS 1 (9-inch) malawach dough disc, defrosted 1 heaping tablespoon duck sauce 1 tablespoon everything spice 1. Preheat oven to 350⁰F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. 2. Roll out dough on a Silpat, aiming to get it as thin as possible. Smear with duck sauce and sprinkle with everything spice. Roll up tightly, jellyroll style. With a sharp knife, slice into ¼-inch-thick spirals. Lay flat on prepared baking sheet and bake for 30 minutes. Yield: 18 pinwheels

THE ORANGE SOUP 4 onions, diced 3 garlic cloves, minced 2 tablespoons oil 1 large butternut squash, peeled and diced 1 tablespoon salt (or Lawry’s salt) ¼ teaspoon pepper ½ teaspoon garlic powder ½ teaspoon paprika 1 (15-ounce) can tomato sauce

1. In a large pot, sauté the onions and the garlic in the oil. Once the onions are softened, add the butternut squash and then the spices. Fill pot with just enough water to cover. Bring soup to a simmer and cook until butternut squash is fork-tender, about 1 hour. 2. Blend soup until smooth, using an immersion blender. Add tomato sauce and blend again (see insaporire note). Serve with Malawach pinwheels. Yield: serves 8

MUSHROOM BARLEY SOUP I know what you are thinking. Really? Mushroom barley? Truth is, I have been searching for a while for a good, wholesome version of this all-time favorite. My sister introduced me to this one, and it entered my soup rotation after the first bowl. It's always a classic. With a few tricks and methods, you too will be enjoying a steaming bowl in no time. This is no ordinary mushroom barley soup. This is mushroom barley soup done right. 3 large carrots, peeled and cut into large chunks 2 tablespoons oil 2 onions, diced small 2 garlic cloves, minced 1 celery root, finely diced 2 small zucchini, finely diced 2 small yellow squash, finely diced 7 celery stalks, sliced 2 (10-ounce) containers mushrooms, sliced ½ cup barley, rinsed (or more, if you like) 2 teaspoons salt ¼ teaspoon pepper ½ teaspoon paprika ½ teaspoon garlic powder 2 tablespoons flour 1 (15-ounce) can tomato sauce

1. Place carrots in the bowl of a food processor that has been fitted with a knife blade. Pulse a few times until you have achieved a coarse ground texture (but don’t let it run too much; you still want small pieces). 2. Heat oil in a large pot. Add onion and garlic, and sauté until the diced onions are translucent. Add remaining vegetables and sauté a few minutes more. Add barley and spices. Cover with water and bring to a simmer. Once simmering, add flour and stir. Cook soup for about 1½ hours, or until barley is tender. 3. Add tomato sauce and stir to combine (see insaporire note). Taste soup and adjust seasoning. Yield: 12 servings

The soups in our house are color-coded. It keeps things simple and secrets concealed. The secret being the vegetables, of course. My boys really give me a hard time when it comes to “eating their broccoli.” With soups, though, I find I can get away with more. “Why is the soup green?” “Because green is one of your favorite colors—am I right?” It worked back then. By now, he knows why it is green. But it’s too late. He already loves green soup too much to argue.

If you want this soup to be completely carb-free without affecting its taste and wonderful creamy consistency, you can substitute 2 cups of frozen cauliflower for the red potatoes. It’s just as good, and even my pickiest eater doesn’t notice the difference.

This soup freezes well. When defrosting, reblend using the immersion blender to restore creaminess.

THE GREEN SOUP 2 ripe tomatoes 2 tablespoons oil 3 onions, diced 3 garlic cloves, minced 6-7 small zucchini, scrubbed and diced 2 small celery roots, peeled and diced 2 small red potatoes, peeled and diced 1 tablespoon salt ¼ teaspoon pepper ½ teaspoon garlic powder

CRUNCHY TORTILLA STRIPS 1 package yellow-flour tortillas oil for frying salt

1. Mark a small X at the tip of each tomato and place in a small bowl. Cover tomatoes with boiling water. Set aside. 2. Heat oil in a large pot. Add onions and garlic, and sauté. Meanwhile, carefully remove tomatoes from boiling water. Tomatoes will now peel easily. Once peeled, dice tomatoes finely and add to the sautéing onions, stirring constantly. Once the onions are soft, add remaining vegetables and the

spices. Fill pot with just enough water to cover. Bring soup to a simmer and cook until potatoes are fork-tender, about 45 minutes. 3. Blend soup until smooth, using an immersion blender. Serve with crunchy tortilla strips (below). Yield: 12 servings

1. Cut tortillas into strips. This can be done easily by layering and cutting a few tortillas at a time. 2. In a frying pan, heat a generous layer of oil. Fry the tortilla strips in batches, until golden. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a plate lined with paper towels. Sprinkle with salt. Tortilla strips can be prepared in advance and stored in an airtight container.

INSAPORIRE: TO FLAVOR. TO ADD TASTE. Insaporire is a fundamental part of Italian cuisine. It is not merely the spicing, it is more about knowing when to add what, and for how long. It is getting your dish from being simply good to really great. These are the many tricks one learns along the way, usually from watching Grandma cook rather than from reading a cookbook. It’s what happens between the lines that is crucial, especially when it comes to soups. There was a time when I was

intimidated by soups. Somehow, mine never seemed as flavorful as my mom’s. With the years, I learned. I accumulated ways to insaporire. I start the green soup by sautéing tomatoes with the onions. I find this step priceless when it comes to adding taste to any soup. Years ago, I gave up using MSG-laden consommés, and ever since, I’ve been looking for new ways to insaporire. This little tomato secret will take you a long way. In the mushroom barley soup, you

will notice that I choose to chop up the carrots in a food processor. This method helps with the consistency, rendering the soup thick and hearty. In the orange soup (and in the mushroom barley too), I end by adding a can of tomato sauce. It’s a trick I learned from my mother-inlaw (told you, grandmothers always know). Tomato sauce will add depth and acidity, taking the natural vegetable flavor to the max. Besides, it’s the Italian in me. We add tomato sauce to practically anything.

CHICKEN BARLEY SOUP

SWEET & SOUR CABBAGE SOUP

QUINOA VEGETABLE & RED LENTIL SOUP 10

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Wholesome. Recipes for Better Living by Elky Friedman • photos by Dan Engongoro

SOUPS TO NOURISH As the snowflakes fall gently to the ground, I sit here and watch the beauty of it. I also watch my kids and their friends, who are busy as bees in a field of flowers as they flit from one snow activity to another. My kids are thrilled and I’m happy for them. I also suddenly feel chilled as it is quite cold outside...and I crave a bowl of hot soup. Now, you’ve got to understand that for me, that’s a new feeling! Growing up down south in sunny Miami Beach, soup was rarely on the menu. Who wanted a bowl of piping hot soup when the temperature was between 85° and 90°? Of course, we did have fresh chicken soup every Friday night because that’s tradition. But we ate it halfheartedly. So now that I’m a true blue Northerner (almost), I can understand the passion for soup. The winter has really set in, and nothing can dispel that intense feeling of cold like rich, hot soup. Plus, don’t forget the nutritional value; soup is high in vitamins and iron and low in calories (if you make it like I do!). Here I include three of my favorites for all of you to enjoy. Stay warm! Enjoy in health! Elky

This thick and flavorful soup is loaded with protein from two sources— quinoa and red lentils. And don’t worry if you think your children (or husband!) won’t eat it because they hate lentils. Red lentils disintegrate as they cook! Instead, the protein and vitamins will be absorbed into the liquid, so you will benefit from their nutritional value and flavor. Thank you, Estie H.

1 tablespoon olive oil 1 onion, diced 3 garlic cloves, crushed 2 celery stalks, chopped 2 carrots, sliced 1 sweet potato, cubed 1 pound butternut squash, cubed 10 cups water 1 cup red lentils 1 cup quinoa 1½ teaspoons salt ½ teaspoon pepper

1. Heat oil in a large soup pot. Add onion and garlic, and saute for 5 minutes. Add celery, carrots, sweet potato, and butternut squash. Cook until soft. Add water, lentils, and quinoa, and season with salt and pepper. 2. Bring to a boil and let simmer for 1 hour. Taste and adjust salt and pepper if necessary. Yield: 12 servings

SWEET & SOUR CABBAGE SOUP I have this thing for cabbage cooked in a soup. Thank goodness, my sister Chana Rivka shares my love for cabbage soup. She played a huge part in creating this one. Enjoy!

*It’s all about moderation: A “sweet”-and-sour soup like this does contain sugar. But look at the yield and the rest of the ingredients. A half-cup in a huge pot like this will yield only two teaspoons per bowl...and the other ingredients are almost calorie-free.

2 tablespoons olive oil 1 large onion, diced 2 garlic cloves, crushed 2 medium zucchini, shredded 2 bags shredded coleslaw mix 10 cups water 2 (15-ounce) cans tomato sauce 3 tablespoons ketchup ½ cup vinegar ½ cup brown sugar, firmly packed 2 tablespoons garlic powder 2 tablespoons onion powder 1 teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon pepper 1 tablespoon cornstarch, dissolved in 3 tablespoons water

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1. Heat oil in a large soup pot over medium heat. Add onion and saute until soft. Add garlic, zucchini, and coleslaw mix. Cook until vegetables are soft, about 10 minutes. 2. Add water, tomato sauce, ketchup, vinegar, brown sugar, and seasonings. Bring to a boil. Stir in cornstarch. Let simmer for 1 to 1½ hours. Yield: 12 servings

CHICKEN BARLEY SOUP I enjoy this soup all the time as a satisfying one-bowl dinner. It has my protein, veggies, and starch; it’s also simple to put together and is absolutely heavenly.

1 tablespoon olive oil 2 medium onions, diced 2 garlic cloves 4 celery stalks, finely chopped 4 carrots, diced 2 medium zucchini, diced 1 parsnip, peeled and diced 10 cups water 1½ cups barley 2 chicken breasts 2½ teaspoons salt 1½ teaspoons dried dill 1 teaspoon pepper

1. Heat oil in a large soup pot over medium heat. Add onions and garlic, and saute until onion is soft, about 5 minutes. Add celery, carrots, zucchini, and parsnip, and cook an additional 8 minutes. 1. Add water and barley. Bring to a boil, then simmer for 30 minutes. Add chicken breasts, salt, dill, and pepper. Let soup continue to simmer for 1 to 1½ hours. 1. Using a fork, shred the chicken breasts (you can do this in the pot or remove them for easier shredding). Yield: 12 servings

on a Diet

WEIGH-IN STARTING WEIGHT

150

A Whisk Serial

CURRENT WEIGHT

144.5 GOAL

130

WEEK 3

Date Night MY DIET I’m eating the same thing every day: • Eggs or tuna for breakfast • Veggie salad for lunch • Chicken and vegetables for supper • 2 fruits for snack MY MOOD Euphoric. I lost 5½ pounds already!

Our first date lasted till past midnight. My husband and I didn’t exactly date. We “sat in.” For those uneducated in this terminology, we did everything you do on a “normal” shidduch date, minus the car and bar tab. In short, we had the same hours of prep, my husband endured the same grilling by his future FIL, and we had the same awkward fumble into finding conversational common ground— but we did it while sitting in my parents’ dining room, sipping (free!) seltzer from tall stemware. Five hours later, my soonto-be husband looked at his watch and exclaimed mildly, “Oh. It’s 12:30. I guess I should go.” Then he walked to the door and said—I kid you not—“Good night and tizku l’mitzvos.” Tizku l’mitzvos?! Tizku l’mitzvos!!! Of all the weird ways to sign off, that had to have been one of the weirdest. Unless he was trying to compliment me by saying that someone like me agreeing to meet him had to be an act of charity? (A month later, diamond ring firmly planted on my finger, I asked him about it. He had no recollection of saying it.) Anyway, when I emerged from the dining room, starry-eyed, I found there was a major drama going on. Dovy’s mother was pretty hysterical that her son was overstaying his welcome, and she was pressing the shadchan to press my father to end the meeting—which he firmly refused. It’s been nearly half a decade and my mother-in-law is still trying to end my dates. But this time she has an accomplice.

POUNDS LOST THIS WEEK

TOTAL POUNDS LOST SO FAR

5.5

My mother-in-law is an amazing Bobby-sitter. So we plan our rare date nights around her. It was quite the treat, with my shvigger ensconced on my living room couch, for Dovy and me to head out to a local restaurant where the names were hard to pronounce and the prices… cheaper than a therapist. I scanned the menu. I’d been a really, really good girl so far. But…surely a date was cause for bending the rules? No buts. I stuck to the diet. My Cornish hen and butternut squash were nice, though not as nice as Dovy’s rib steak and potatoes. You know what was even nicer? Eating food not made by me. “Would you like some dessert?” asked our waiter. “Where’s the dessert menu?” I heard myself ask. Just then the phone rang. It was my shvigger. We’d been gone for barely an hour but we had to come back NOW. Baby was crying. Loudly. Yes, she’d tried to rock him. No, she couldn’t just deal with it. So no dessert. Thank you, Shvigger. Date over: way before midnight. Nomee

The Scale Says...

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WEIGHT LOSS PROGRAM

Diet Advice by Nutritionist Tanya Rosen

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Weight loss for nursing moms… Practical tips and suggestions

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3) Stay busy while nursing. In an ideal world, you are supposed to bond with your baby for the entire duration of the nursing session. In real life, this does not always happen. Many women tell me they get “bored” or “restless” while nursing and end up munching on the wrong foods. My suggestion is to plan ahead for things to do. Listen to a lecture, make some calls you need to take care of, prepare books and magazines you will read, etc.

36 37

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Counting Carbs

Counting Calories Weighing Food Limited Portions

For Women and Teens

Diet Medications

2) Be very prepared for nighttime nursing. • Have cut up veggies and fruits in the refrigerator. This way if you do start opening the fridge in search of “something,” you are more likely to choose less damaging food. • If you give the baby a bottle in middle of the night, keep a small refrigerator and hot water upstairs. One client was great on her food plan all day, and always cheated at night when going downstairs to make the baby a bottle. Once she began keeping the items she needed upstairs, she saved herself a trip downstairs (and the extra calories).

HEALTHY FOOD COMBINATIONS FOR A BALANCED MENU & AMAZING RESULTS!

1) A nursing mom should be eating an extra 500 calories a day! This is even more than the 300 calories recommended for a pregnant woman. Nursing burns a lot of calories, and those calories need to be replaced. The key is to use these calories wisely and make good choices. You will be a lot more satisfied from an extra piece of grilled chicken and an extra serving of rice versus a bag of potato chips or chocolate.

Women who give birth (minus a few very lucky ones) have weight to lose. Nursing moms have added challenges. Since nursing burns a lot of calories, moms who nurse tend to feel much hungrier. Exhaustion (typical for new moms) is also a weight-loss barrier, both physiologically, and mentally. Physiologically, it is hard for the body to burn calories when it is tired. Mentally, it is very hard for us to make good food choices when we are exhausted. Here are tips to combat some of a nursing mother’s challenges:

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